Daily Archives: 27 June, 2012

Embarcadero de Legaspi (Albay)

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From Daraga, I made a short stopover at Embarcadero de Legaspi, a major waterfront development fronting the Legaspi City‘s main harbor.  Bernard and I previously had an evening coffee here 3 days before.  The mall is just a short jeepney ride from the Governor’s Mansion (where we stayed overnight).  Located on a 15.477-hectare property on reclaimed land, Embarcadero sits at the foot of Kapuntukan Hill (Sleeping Lion Hill). Owned and managed by Embarcadero Land Ventures, Inc., it is now the Bicol Region’s premier urban mall and shopping center.
 
Embarcadero de Legaspi
This world-class lifestyle hub for tourists and locals is home to retail spaces, restaurants, markets, a host of branded specialty boutiques, a major civic space (Embarcadero Celebration Plaza), a supermarket (Puregold), a classy hotel (Ellis Ecotel), themed indoor amusement center (Playland) and a bowling alley.  Its picturesque, landmark lighthouse, with its beaming searchlight, doubles as the office of the city’s 91.5 Magik radio station.
 
Embarcadero’s signature lighthouse
The seaside area, a favorite hangout place (the mall stays open until midnight), has a host of open-air paluto restaurants where one can sample the freshest seafoods, the well-known Bicol Express and mouth-watering laing, all while sipping a bottle of cold beer, watching the ships’ lights and listening to a live acoustic band.
 
For adrenaline junkies, Embarcadero also hosts the city’s second zip line (the other one is available at Lignon Hill).  To try, climb the lighthouse and zip line 350 m. down, traversing the waters of Albay Gulf, to the other end of the breakwater, getting a magnificent view of majestic Mayon Volcano along the way.  There’s also a seaside go kart track (PhP75 per 2 laps inclusive of protective gear), jetskis (Php1,200 for 15 mins.), environment-friendly Segway PT (PhP200 for 15 mins.) and E-tricycles for rent (PhP50 for 2 pax per 15 mins.)
 
Embarcadero de Legaspi: Port Area, Victory Village, Legaspi City, Albay.  Tel: (052) 481-1000.
 
Rides to Embarcadero de Legaspi, via brightly-colored, eco-friendly electronic E-jeepneys and E-tricycles, are available at the Battle of Legaspi Monument.  There’s also a free shuttle inside the mall.

Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Daraga, Albay)

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From the Cagsawa Ruins, we next proceeded to Daraga town proper then drove up Sta. Maria Hill to the town’s Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Nuestra Senora de la Porteria).  The church compound has an awesome view of the sea and majestic Mayon Volcano.

Church of Our Lady of the Gate

This church, built in 1773 by Franciscan monks, has an ornately carved Baroque (others say it is a mixture of Mexican Baroque and Renaissance Gothic) facade divided into 3 segments by 4 tall, twisted columns with medallions, bearing images of the Four Evangelists, at each column’s center.  The church also has a semicircular arched main entrance topped by floral decorations and is covered with an image of Our Lady of the Gate, statuary, alcoves, religious seals, the coat-of-arms of the Franciscan Order, and niches on the walls and pedimentcontaining statues of Franciscan saints articulately carved on volcanic rock.  

The facade’s pantheon of saints
The right side of the church

Because its facade was made with volcanic rock, the church originally had a black facade as depicted on old photos.  However, during my visit, its much-admired Old World look was gone as it was painted, during restoration work (done in close coordination with and approval of the National Museum, National Historical Institute and National Commission  on Culture and Arts) in 2008, with a white lime coating (containing chemical ingredients that turned it white) which, according to its conservationists, would protect the facade from exposure to the elements and from further deterioration.  This intervention, also done in historical landmarks in other countries, was deemed acceptable as it does not adversely affect its cultural significance.  

Twisted column detail
The NHI plaque

The octagonal bell tower (or belfry), on the church’s right, carries images of the 12 Apostles engraved on the sides of the angles.  As per my visit, it still retains its volcanic black color as well as the unwanted foliage protruding from its volcanic stone facade.  On the church’s left is the unremarkable convent.  Compared to the church’s exquisite face, the church’s white interior is bland and simply adorned, a  result of what historians refer to as “unregulated reconstructions and modifications.” However, it still houses priceless old santos (statues of saints).  

The unpainted octagonal belfry

During the Philippine-American War, the church was used as headquarters by the U.S. Cavalry and, during World War II, as headquarters by the Japanese.  Damaged during the liberation in 1945, the church was repaired from 1971 to 1973.  On October 29, 2007, this church was declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure (specifically cited were the eastern and western facade, the bell tower and the baptistery), the second in Albay after the Church of St. John the Baptist in Tabaco City  and, one year later, on October 16, 2008, it was likewise declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute (NHI).

The bland interior

Church of Our Lady of the Gate: Sta. Maria Hill, Brgy. San Roque, Daraga, Albay.  Tel: (052) 483-4416.  E-mail: daragaparish@gmail.com.  

Cagsawa Ruins (Daraga, Albay)

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From Lignon Hill Nature Park, we next drove down to the nearby town of Daraga.  About 3.5 kms. northwest of the town, 500 m. north of the highway, we entered the Cagsawa Ruins, a place I first visited 7 years ago during a stopover on our way to Naga City (Camarines Sur).  Much has happened since my first visit.  In 2006, mud flows from Mayon Volcano, triggered by typhoon Reming (international name: Durian) buried 8 villages in the town (killing at least 1,266 people) and we passed many ruined and buried homes.

The Cagsawa Ruins

Still, the Cagsawa Ruins, the most visited and photographed site in all of Albay, remains as it seemed during my last visit, the big difference being my classic, postcard view of Mt. Mayon’s perfect cone wasn’t obstructed by swirling afternoon clouds. The blackened church bell tower (or belfry), as well as the broken down walls of the priest’s house and municipal building (all destroyed during the February 1, 1814 eruption that killed 1,200 townspeople), have still withstood the test of time and the elements.  

Other ruins at the site

Something I never noticed before was a mini-resort with rental cottages  and 2 modest-size swimming pools (adult and kiddie) to the right of the ruins. This begs the questions “Why build a resort at  the very site where thousands have died while escaping the wrath of the volcano?”  “Did they dig up skeletons when they dug the pools?” The resort owner who built it was somehow unmindful of the sacredness of the place.

The swimming pool beside the ruins.  “What were they thinking?”

Right outside the ruins were a chain of souvenir shops selling a colorful assortment of locally produced products such as bags and baskets; Tiwi ceramic ware;  furniture (wicker chairs, sala and dining sets, etc.); Tabaco cutlery items (bolos, knives, grass cutters, etc.), arts and crafts made from Mayon’s ashes, hardwood, abaca and shells; exotic flowers and orchids; T-shirts with different designs; and native food delicacies such as kuyog, pili nut confections (salted, sugar-coated, etc.), canned pinangat, and sweet pineapple wine. Restaurants on the site also offer bicol express (a spicy shrimp dish with coconut cream), inasal na sira (grilled fish) among other dishes. 

Cagsawa Ruins: Brgy. Busay, Daraga. Admssion: PhP10. Parking fees: trucks and buses (PhP20); cars (PhP15) and motorcycles and tricycles (PhP5). 

Lignon Hill (Legaspi City, Albay)

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Mayon Volcano

After an early morning breakfast at Villa Isabel Hotel’s restaurant, I packed up for my trip back to Legaspi City  where I was to take the 1:20 PM Zest Air flight back to Manila.  Bernard stayed behind as he had other business to attend to in Sorsogon City.  I took a tricycle to the national highway where I boarded a Legaspi City-bound van which left by 8:30 AM.  I arrived at the Legaspi City Satellite Bus Terminal by 10 AM.  

Legaspi City Satellite Bus Terminal

Here, I was picked by Ms. Danica Pontejos, a staffer from Mr. Marti Calleja’s Bicol Adventures, and her driver.  As it was still early in the morning, I still had 2 hrs. to tour the city and Daraga town prior to being brought to the airport and Marti was kind enough to let me do so.   First in my itinerary was, fitfully, the Lignon (pronounced as lin-yon) Hill Nature Park, one of the city’s famous landmarks and the highest location in the downtown area.  The trip up the paved zigzag road of the 156-m. high hill took less than 10 mins. (the hike up takes 45 mins. to an hour).

Lignon Hill Nature Park

For years, the hill was known for its PHIVOLCS observatory at its southwestern slope and the old lighthouse at its summit.  Today, it is known for its view deck where I had a panoramic, 360-degree view of Legaspi City (and its airport runway, 11 kms. southeast of the volcano’s summit), Daraga and Albay Gulf.  Best of all, as it was early in the morning (the best time to visit), I had a spectacular view of the world famous Mayon Volcano and its breathtaking perfect cone in all its naked glory. During my first visit to the city almost 7 years ago (http://firingyourimagination.blogspot.com/2005/07/albay-mayon-volcano.html), my afternoon view of the volcano was shielded by swirling clouds. In the late afternoon, you can watch the sunset and, in the evening, the city lights of Legaspi.

Aerial View of Legaspi City

For sightseers and guests, the hill also has a landscaped promenade with restaurants and shops.  For the adventurous, there’s also a 320-m. long zip line where one can soar through the air harnessed to a cable.  Other adventure activities and extreme sports offered include hiking, mountain biking (on the gullies at the foot of Mt. Mayon), rappelling 150 ft. down, paintball, riding 4-wheel all terrain vehicles (ATVs, c/o Your Brother Travel and Tours) and, soon, airsoft.  You can also take the super steep route up the hill via the Kapit Tuko Trail or explore a 50 ft. long Japanese tunnel.

View of Airport Runway

Lignon Hill Nature Park: off Binitayan Rd. (behind Albay Park & Wildlife). Open daily, 8 AM-11 PM. Admission: PhP10 (educational tour rate) and PhP20 (foreign visitors and non-Albay residents), 5- 9 AM free of charge for regular joggers. Zipline off season rates: PhP250 (basic) and PhP350 (advanced – superman).  Rappelling rates: PhP200 (off season) and PhP250 (peak season).  
Your Brother Travel and Tours: ATV rates: PhP1,800/hour (150cc) and PhP2,500/hour (500cc or buggy). Tel: (052) 820-3629.  E-mail: yourbrothertravevandtours@yahoo.com.