Back to Bugasong (Antique)

From Floring’s Carinderia, we boarded our van for the drive to the  poblacion of Bugasong where Mr. Jose Allan Sanchez Bartolo, the station manager of Hot FM Bugasong 102.9 and Municipal Consultant on Special Concerns, joined us.  He invited us to have merienda at Dandansoy Restaurant where we were treated to a big bowl of lomi (PhP130), good for 4 people, and their signature buco batchoy (PhP35). At the latter, the cooked batchoy is mixed with fresh buco inside the coconut shell to fuse both of their flavors, producing a unique blend that is nothing short of exotic and tasty.

Dandansoy Restaurant

Dandansoy Restaurant

The restaurant, which also serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, also offers sisig (PhP60), fried chicken (PhP35), pansit (bihon or guisado), lumpia, pork chop and spaghetti.    Their breakfast menu consists of either longganisa, tocino, beef tapa, bangus, corned beef, hotdog, adobo, pork chop, fried chicken or lumpia; all served with garlic fried rice and egg (PhP45-50).  A band sometimes plays come nighttime.

A big bowl of lomi

A big bowl of lomi

The restaurant's signature buco batchoy

The restaurant’s signature buco batchoy

As we still had a few minutes of daylight left, we left the restaurant and boarded our van to catch the sunset at the 200 m. high Estaka Hill.  Located at the heart of the town, it was, during the early Spanish era, a refuge of Bugasongnons during attacks of Moro pirates.  The hill is accessed via concrete steps carved at the side of the hill. On top of the hill is a modern view deck, built by the local government, that can be accessed via a concrete staircase.

The view deck on Estaka Hill

The view deck on Estaka Hill

Media group at the view deck

Media group at the view deck

Overlooking the entire poblacion, the view deck, with its two octagonal, umbrella-like roofs, has a panoramic view of the South China Sea on the west, the mountains in the east, the historic Arong Hill to the south, and the barangays of Cubay and Paliwan to the northwest.  Too bad, we missed the sunset. It would have truly capped a day filled with  food, adventure and education.

View of town from Estaka Hill

View of town from Estaka Hill

Dusk over the South China Sea

Dusk over the South China Sea

From Bugasong, we returned to Tibiao where we were to stay overnight at the UA Hometel, located within the University of Antique.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: UA Hometel

Dandansoy Restaurant: Rizal St., Brgy. Ilaya, Bugasong, Antique.  Mobile number: (0926) 331-3324. Open daily, 7 AM – 10 PM.

How To Get There: Bugasong is located 43 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 12.4 kms. from Laua-an and 17.3 kms. from Patnongon.

The Butong-Butong and Bandi of Laua-an (Antique)

UFrom Tibiao, we were next driven 18.5 kms. (a 30 min. ride), past Barbaza, to the town of Laua-an, the muscovado sugar capital of Antique. Here, we were dropped off at a gym where we, as well as the students of UP Visayas (Miag-ao, Iloilo), were to observe a demonstration, sponsored by Benz Bandi  (owner: Mr. Melben “Benz” Bandiola), of the making of famous specialty delicacies bandi (peanut brittle) and butong-butong (muscovado candy). Bandi, called panutsa in Luzon, is made with whole peanuts covered in muscovado sugar.

The melted muscovado sugar is allowed to simmer

The melted muscovado sugar is allowed to simmer

The muscovado making industry has declined through the years when the white variety was introduced but now there is an ever-growing demand, since people now prefer to have an alternative supply aside from the white variety.  With the increase in popularity of organic products, many coffee lovers also prefer this kind of sugar, instead of the white variety, because it enhances the coffee’s taste.

The sugary syrup is poured in banana stalks

The sugary syrup is poured into banana stalks

The traditional process in making muscovado is more natural and less processed.  First, the sugar cane juice is filtered to remove any impurities.  The part that is already thick is then turned into its grainy form using the traditional brick oven.  Today, Laua-an just can’t keep up with the demand in the market.

The hot, melted muscovado sugar is then pulled

The hot, melted muscovado sugar is then pulled

When we arrived, the ingredients (muscovado sugar, kalamansi, peanuts, etc.) as well as the kawa (cauldron) where already made ready for the demonstration.  In making butong-butong (called tira-tira in Luzon), muscovado sugar is melted in the kawa and whole kalamansi (Philippine lemon), with the rind included, is added into the mix.

Peanuts being poured into the mixture

Peanuts being poured into the mixture

After a short cooking time, the kalamansi is removed from the mix and the crystallized muscovado syrup is poured into banana tree stalks and allowed to cool down for a few minutes.

The peanuts and melted muscovado are mixed

The peanuts and melted muscovado are mixed

The hot, melted muscovado sugar is then pulled (butong is a Hiligaynon or Kinaray-a word meaning “to pull”) until it becomes whitish in color and then hardens to create a solid, soft and chewy candy.  It is sometimes stretch to create different designs.

The muscovado and peanut mix is poured on sawali mats

The muscovado and peanut mix is poured on sawali mats

The process in making bandi is almost the same, with peanuts added into the mix.  The mixture, when ready, is poured in sawali mats, spread out and allowed to harden. To compliment the flavor of the bandi, it is topped with roasted lunga or sesame seeds.

Roasted sesame seeds are then sprinkled

After spreading, roasted sesame seeds are then sprinkled

How To Get There: Laua-an is located 55.1 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista., 12.6 kms. from Tibiao and 12.4 kms. from Bugasong.

Tibiao Bakery (Antique)

After lunch, we all proceeded to Tibiao Bakery, the first bakeshop in the town and one of the more popular bakeries on Panay Island, where we were to sample their baked specialties.

Tibiao Bakery

Tibiao Bakery

Early on, we’ve previously sampled their popular and crunchy biscocho (from the Latin phrase bis coctus meaning “twice baked”), topped with butter and sugar, and asado rolls the day before.  Upon arrival at the bakery, I tried out their mongo ensaymada (also comes in ube flavor) and teren-teren, another Tibiao Bakery bestseller with a sweet filling, so named because it resembles a “train.”

An array of specialty breads

An array of specialty breads

Aside from the above mentioned delicacies, the bakery is well known for its other Filipino specialty breads such as pan de sal,  pan de coco, macapuno buns, raisin bread, pineapple rolls, mongo rolls, mongo loaf, Pullman loaf, rainbow bread, ugoy-ugoy (a layered, flaky biscuit with granulated sugar as topping), paborita biscuitsprincipe, whole wheat bread, among others, as well as otap (oval-shaped puff pastry), cakes, cheese cupcake, biscuits, mamon, cookies and sweets.  They also offer short orders such as siopao, hamburgers, pancit molo and spaghetti.

Ensaymada mongo

Ensaymada mongo

This bakery was started by Manuel B. Lim, Sr. (mayor of Tibiao from 1991 to 2000) together with his wife, the former Anita J. Mandolado of Bugasong, as a neighborhood bakeshop on August 16, 1953 with a capital of around 20,000 pesos. Even after 6 decades of operation, they still use the same methods and equipment in baking bread as well as the old pugon, which is fired with wood, built on June 5, 1955.

Chesse pan de sal and mongo rolls

Chesse pan de sal and mongo rolls

Now a proud export of the town, , it is now one of the largest and most popular companies in the whole Panay Island.  Their good and tasty breads has spawned numerous branches in the northern towns of Antique and the provinces of Aklan, Capiz and Iloilo.  In Iloilo City, a branch was started Manuel’s sons Vicente and Stephen in 1982.  Now it has around 10 branches  and it also supplies breads and baked goods to a lot of fast food chains such as Jollibee, Pizza Hut and Kentucky Fried Chicken, to name a few , plus it’s main locator inside SM groceries around Iloilo.

Raisin bread and whole wheat bread

Raisin bread and whole wheat bread

There’s even a branch established by Sonny and Nieva Lim in Wellington, New Zealand (Tibiao Caterers/Capital Bakery).  Eventually in 1989, the business was converted from a sole proprietorship to a corporation.

Our media group

Our media group

Tibiao Bakery: Bandoja St., Poblacion, Tibiao, Antique.

Tibiao Caterers/Capital Bakery: 5 Jasmine Grove, Maungaraki, Lower Hutt, Wellington, New Zealand,Tel: 04-5891099. Mobile number (0274)495037. E-mail tibiao@xtra.co.nz.

How To Get There: Tibiao is located 73 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 12.6 kms. from Barbaza, 17 kms. from Culasi and 89 kms. from Brgy. Caticlan (Malay, Aklan).

Lunch at Ever Land Inn (Tibiao, Antique)

After our ziplining at Tibiao Eco-Adventure (TEA) Park, Jandy and I joined the five UP Visayas students as we made our way, downhill, to Ever Land Inn where my media colleagues and the other students were already having their lunch of spaghetti and fresh buco.

Dining, al fresco, on low tables

Dining, al fresco, on low tables

This mountain inn, one of four located within the area (the others are Bugtong Bato Inn, Kayak Inn and Zipline Inn), was started by Korean investor Charlie Jung whose brother is married to a Filipina.

Large pavilion

Large pavilion

At the bamboo dining pavilion, set under the outstretched arms of a huge tree, we all dined on low tables and sat, cross-legged, on the sawali floor.  Al fresco dining was great here as we all had a great view of the swirling Tibiao River below us.

Picnic sheds

Picnic sheds

Though still under development, the area already had a big pavilion , and a number of picnic sheds, all situated along the river bank and made with indigenous materials such as bamboo and sawali plus a tarpaulin roof. All huts are interconnected to each other by neat, gravel topped pathways.

Gravel pathways

Gravel pathways

Aside from being a great picnic area, guests can also have a cool dip or kayak at the river and then have a massage later.  The area is also near the previously mentioned Tibiao Eco-Adventure Park, where you can go ziplining, and Kayak Inn, where you can try out the kawa hot bath.

Charlie Jung (center) with students and members of media

Charlie Jung (center) with UP students and members of media

Ever Land Inn: Brgy. Tuno, Tibiao, Antique.  Mobile number: (0939) 574-4642.  E-mail: tibiaoantiqu@naver.com.

How To Get There: Tibiao is located 73 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 12.6 kms. from Barbaza, 17 kms. from Culasi and 89 kms. from Brgy. Caticlan (Malay, Aklan).

Tibiao Eco-Adventure (TEA) Park (Antique)

Jandy and I left our group to join 5 students (4 ladies, including a Korean, and a lone guy) of UP Visayas (Miag-ao, Iloilo) who were going to try out ziplining at the Tibiao Eco-Adventure (TEA) Park, so we decided to join them when they do.

Tibiao Eco-Adventure Park

Tibiao Eco-Adventure Park

The Fear Buster Tower

The Fear Buster Tower

All seven of us were dropped off by our van driver at the park entrance, beside the uphill road leading to Kayak Inn.  Opposite the park entrance, across the road, is their Fear Buster Tower, seemingly a wall climbing facility.

The park's zipline gear

The park’s zipline gear

A damaged kayak left hanging by the booth

A damaged kayak left hanging by the booth

The TEA Park is noted for its two 1-km. long ziplines, said to be the longest in the whole of Panay Island.  Aside from wall climbing and ziplining, the park also offered river kayaking but their kayaks were all damaged on the boulder-strewn Tibiao River and one could be seen hanging by the booth.

Jandy being suited up

Jandy being suited up

The zipline staging platform

The zipline staging platform

This would be Jandy’s second try at a zipline (the first was in Corregidor Island) and I can’t remember how many times I’ve tried it.  From what I see, it would be the first for the students so I let all of them suit up and have their first crack at it.  After all five have finished with their run, it was Jandy’s turn on the line, with me the last to go.

Jandy taking off

Jandy taking off

The Tibiao River with rice terraces in background

The Tibiao River with rice terraces in background

The nearly 45 second adrenalin rush traversed great views of the valley, lush forests and the beautiful Tibiao River flanked by some nice rice terraces.  Once on the other side with Jandy, we had to go up steps carved on a hill to get the next jump-off point, another steel tower set on a raised platform, for the zipline ride back to our initial staging point.

Steps leading to the next staging area

Steps leading to the next staging area

The second staging platform

The second staging platform

Tibiao Eco-Adventure (TEA) Park: Butong, Brgy. Tuno, Tibiao, Antique. Zipline Rate: PhP300/pax.

How To Get There: Tibiao is located 73 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 12.6 kms. from Barbaza, 17 kms. from Culasi and 89 kms. from Brgy. Caticlan (Malay, Aklan).

Pottery and Brick Making at Bandoja (Tibiao, Antique)

After our lambaklag fishing expedition, we were all driven, within 15 mins., from Brgy. Malabor to Brgy. Bandoja, this time to try our hand at pottery and brick making.  Bandoja is known for their earthen products made famous by the quality and durability of its bricks and the pottery that comes from a wide variety shapes and decorative techniques.  The barangay is blessed with 450,000 metric tons of clay reserves, making it an ideal location for this cottage industry.

The brick and pottery making facility

The brick and pottery making facility

In the past, the pottery designs used were usually geometric, with stylized nature motif.  Later, however, it became more functional. Their finished products include terracotta bricks, huge and complex ornamental jars, mini cooking sets, flower pots, mini clay slippers and others.

The raw clay

The raw clay

Students of UP Visayas (Miag-ao, Iloilo), on a field trip, where invited to try their hand in pottery. Pottery, though fun, doesn’t look as easy as the process seen in the movie Ghost.  In fact, it takes a lot of patience to mold the wet clay and learn the basics of the potter’s wheel much less create a decent looking vase, jar or pot.

Clay molded into rotational symmetry

Clay molded into rotational symmetry

The potter’s wheels, some improvised from bicycle rims, were all turned by hand. As the wheel is rotated, the solid ball of soft clay is pressed, squeezed and pulled gently upwards and outwards into a hollow shape.

A native potter at work

A native potter at work

In brick making, the raw clay is mixed with 25-30% sand to reduce shrinkage, then grounded and mixed with water to produce the desired consistency. It is then pressed into steel molds (also referred to as forming) to form the clay into its final shape.

Clay being pressed in steel molds

Clay being pressed in steel molds

In pottery making, the clay is first kneaded to ensure an even moisture content throughout the body.  The next step, called centering the clay, is the most important skill to master before the next step.  Here, the rough ball of clay is pressed downward and inward into perfect rotational symmetry.

The students try their hand at pottery making

The students try their hand at pottery making

The next steps are “opening” (making ac hollow into the center of the solid ball of clay), “flooring” (creating a flat or rounded bottom inside the pot), “throwing” or “pulling” (the walls are drawn up and shaped to an even thickness), and “trimming” or “turning” (refining the shape or to creating a foot through removal of the excess clay).

The drying kilns

The drying kilns

Of course, the student’s pottery and brick creations wouldn’t be complete without “firing” in a kiln to remove all the water in the clay to harden, increase their strength and set the clay.  Only then does it become pottery or bricks.

A stack of finished bricks

A stack of finished bricks

A row of finished pottery

A row of finished pottery

Instead of wood or charcoal, the kiln uses cheaper rice husks for fuel which reduces air pollution and improves the quality of the products.   Firing would take some time but, since the students etched their names on their creations, the finished products would be delivered to them on a later date.

Our media group

Our media group

Katahum Tours: Tibiao, Antique.  Mobile numbers: (0919) 813-9893 and (0917) 631-5777. E-mail: flord@tibiaofishspa.com. Website: www.katahum.com.

How To Get There: Tibiao is located 73 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 12.6 kms. from Barbaza, 17 kms. from Culasi and 89 kms. from Brgy. Caticlan (Malay, Aklan).

Lambaklad Fishing at Malabor (Tibiao, Antique)

We also awoke by 4:30 AM, just before dawn, and boarded our van for the 30-min. drive to Brgy. Malabor in Tibiao.  Here, we were to try our hand at lambaklad fishing, a one-of-a-kind experience.  Part of the package (which includes swimming in 7-tiered falls, cliff-diving, kayaking, river trekking and relaxing in Tibiao Fish Spa) of Tibiao Adventures, it was conceptualized and operated by Mr. Flord Nicson J. Calawag of Katahum Tours to promote Tibiao’s tourism treasures as well as provide livelihood and a ticket to a better life for the town’s fishermen who are no match to purse seiners.

Boarding the lambaklad

Boarding the lambaklad

The lambaklad, a huge stationary fish trap (one of the largest in the country), is derived from the Filipino words lambat (meaning “net”) and baklad (meaning “corral”). It is the Filipino equivalent of the Japanese’ otoshi-ami (literally translated as a “drop-in net”), stationary and passive fishing gear that also acts as a buffer against the incursion of large commercial fishing vessels in municipal waters.

Our media group

Our media group

When we arrived at the shore for our “fishing expedition,” the first lambaklad, loaded with students from U.P. Visayas (Miag-ao, Iloilo) on a field trip, had already left and were already 50 m. shore when we boarded the second one, together with the remaining students, waiting for our arrival.    Our 50 m. wide and 200 m. long, double-decked bamboo raft, like the first one, was manned by a 20-member buso (fishing crew), led by two maestros.  Two row boats are also used in the fishing operation.

The Malabor coast

The Malabor coast

The raft, which can accommodate 100 persons or approximately three tons, consists of four main parts – the leader, playground, the inner and outer slopes, and the bag. The leader, which blocks the path of the school of migratory fish, leads them to the playground. From the playground, the fish enters the outer slope, via pointed nettings and, as the fish passes through the slope, it enters to the inner slope (or non-return valve), dropping into the bag where they are trapped and hauled for the catch.

Students helping with the hauling of the net

Students helping with the hauling of the net

The coast off Malabor, particularly in the Cuyo East Pass in its western border, is along a tuna highway where migratory fish can get caught in the lambaklad. The students in first raft were, together with the crew, helping haul the fishing net now loaded with yellow fin tuna, mackerel, moonfish, barracuda, squid and red tail scads wriggling and tossing around the raft.

Jandy with caught tuna

Jandy with caught tuna

The early morning’s catch were brought to shore by the fishermen and some of fish were grilled for our breakfast which we all had by the shore. Aside from the grilled fish, we also had scrambled eggs, grilled eggplant and steamed rice plus coffee.  What a way to start the day!

The morning catch

The morning catch

On regular tours, tourists who join the expedition are given first priority in buying the catch at very low prices ranging from PhP60 to PhP150 per kilo, depending on the species, with the first-class varieties (malasugi, tuna, tangigue) commanding higher prices.  If they decide not to buy, there’s always the fish vendors and retailers, waiting at the pier, who can buy it from the fishermen.  From the proceeds from the catch, one-third of the share goes to the fishermen and two-thirds to the management that assumes all the material and operational expenses.

Our breakfast by the shore

Our breakfast by the shore

Katahum Tours: Tibiao, Antique.  Mobile numbers: (0919) 813-9893 and (0917) 631-5777. E-mail: flord@tibiaofishspa.com. Website: www.katahum.com.

How To Get There: Tibiao is located 73 kms. from San Jose de Buenavista, 12.6 kms. from Barbaza, 17 kms. from Culasi and 89 kms. from Brgy. Caticlan (Malay, Aklan).