The scenic mountain village of Jiufen

After our arrival in Taipei and a deliciously filling lunch at Chien-Yen Shabu Shabu, we all boarded our tourist bus for the nearly one-hour drive to Jiufen (also spelled Jioufen or Chiufen), a small village in the mountains, arriving there by 2:45 PM. The weather was overcast, with some light rain. The town of Jiufen is built into the side of the hills, slightly inland from the Pacific Ocean coastline.

Check out “Restaurant Review: Chien-Yen Shabu Shabu“

Panoramic view of the Pacific coastline

In 2001, the village has been made more popular largely due to its similarity to the downtown in Hayao Miyazaki’s popular, Oscar-winning Japanese anime movie Spirited Away by Studio Ghibli. Jiufen soon became a must visit place among Japanese tourists, with many Japanese travel magazines and guide books about Taiwan introduced Jiufen. However, Miyazaki himself denied that Jiufen was the model city of the movie

The author at the entrance of Shan Yu Hai B&B

The village can be explored in under 3 hours but, as we were pressed for time, Mr. Vincent Chen, our friendly Eagle Tours guide, allotted us just an hour to explore the village. From a viewpoint at the Taiyang parking lot, we had sweeping but hazy views of the mountains and the Pacific Ocean.

Map of Jiufen Village

I, together with Joyce Ventura, explored all the way up to Fushan Temple while Jandy and most of the group explored the bustling, 24-hour, extremely touristy and crowded Jiufen Old Street, a narrow alleyway lined up with small food stalls, authentic tea houses, souvenir shops, and pottery stores.  They got there via Qiche Road, climbing up the long series of stairs that crosses over to the heart of Jiufan.

Check out “Fushan Temple”

The approach to Fushan Temple (top right)

Jiufen Old Street is actually composed of three parallel streets – Jishan Street (which runs along the ridge line), Cingbian Road and Qiche Road.  Jishan Street is the most densely populated with snacks and specialty shops.

Shuqi (or Shuchi) Road, perpendicular to the three, runs up and down the slope of the hill and comprises hundreds of stone steps with many teahouses.

The long, steep and narrow stairway leading to the center of the village

Shops here sell street food such as beef noodle soup, fish ball soup, ice cream peanut pancakes and Jiufen’s famous country snacks such as Ah Lan Glutinous Rice Cake, Taro Glutinous Rice Cake, Hongzao (Oxo Cubes) Meatball, cold or hot Ah Gan Taro Balls,  A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll, Taiwanese Sausages (Wu Di ‘Flower Lady’), Zhang Ji Traditional Fish Balls.  You can also buy locally produced ginger tea and plum wine.

Red lanterns were everywhere….

The century-old, richly decorated and picturesque, multi-storey A-Mei Teahouse, said to be the inspiration behind the Bath House in Spirited Away. Popularly known as the Grand Tea House, it is the most famous structure in all of Jiufen.  Perched on top of a hill, it is strategically located just a little off the main street. From its balcony, it has a picturesque view of Keelung Mountain to the right and northern shores of Taiwan on the left. You definitely need to book ahead if you want to have a tea here.

Souvenir store

Another noted teahouse is the City of Sadness Restaurant, an eatery overlooking the square, where A City of Sadness, another critically acclaimed movie (and the first film to touch on the February 28 Incident of 1947, in which thousands of people were massacred, then a taboo subject in Taiwan) by Hou Hsiao-hsien was filmed.  This film masterpiece bagged the  Golden Lion Award during the 1989 Venice Film Festival.

Railway tunnel

Jiufen was also known as a gold mining town.  In 1890, flakes of gold were discovered by workmen constructing the new Taipei-Keelung Railway and the resulting gold rush hastened the village’s development into a town.

Jandy beside a statue of a miner

During World War II, Kinkaseki, a POW camp for Allied soldiers captured in Singapore, was set up in the town and the POWs here were made to work in the nearby mines.

Mine entrance leading to the Taiwan Sweet Potato Teahouse

After the war, gold mining activities declined and the mine was shut down in 1971 for safety reasons.  A graffiti-filled mining tunnel, located right next to the A-Mei Teahouse, serves as a quaint entrance to Taiwan Sweet Potato Teahouse.

Teahouse at Taiyang parking lot

At Jiufen Gold Ore Museum, you can learn more about Jiufen’s history as a mining town.

Jiufen Police Station

Jiufen Old Street: Jishan Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224. Tel:  +886 2 2496 8978.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen). 

How to Get There: Take the MRT blue line to Zhongxiao Fuxing Station Exit 1, then take bus 1062 to Jiufen Old Street Station. The town is served by buses that run from Keelung, Taipei, etc. The nearest train station is Rueifang Station of the TRA Yilan Line, which is 15 minutes away by bus.