Mutchong Viewpoint (Uyugan, Batanes)

Mutchong Viewpoint

From the famous site of the Alapad rock formation, on your way to Brgy. Songsong in Uyugan, we made a stopover by the big sign saying “I ♡ UYUGAN,” a small boxlike community “bayanihan” (“Kamañidungan”) center and the Mutchong Viewpoint (also called Imnajbu Point) which is known for its breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes, including the rugged cliffs, rolling hills, vast ocean, and the picturesque rocky coastlines of Batanes.

Check out “Alapad Rock Formation

The author, Grace and Jandy

Here we were greeted with a spectacular sight of beautiful hills and the distant sea, as well as a refreshing breeze. The viewpoint allowed us to get close to a cliff, so we can see where the land meets the waters of the West Philippine Sea below. 

The big “I ♡ UYUGAN” sign

From this stunning vantage point, we admired the lovely scenery and natural beauty of the place, the waves crashing the unique geological formations of the area below and enjoyed the breeze and the sound of the howling wind.

Mutchong Viewpoint: Brgy. Kayvaluganan, 3903 Uyugan.

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kilometers (a 45-minute drive) from Basco and 11.9 kilometers (a 25-minute drive) from Ivana.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Alapad Rock Formation (Uyugan, Batanes)

From the BAMSO Museum, it was just a short drive to the iconic Alapad Rock Formation, one of the most visited tourist attractions in Batan Island.

Alapad Rock Formation

This an inclined rock, facing the Pacific Ocean, was naturally carved by the strong water current and tectonic movements. Since it is strategically situated along the coastline of Imnajbu in Batan Island, it was blasted open, right down the middle, leaving some space in between to accommodate Batan’s circumferential road.

On one side is a hill that serves as a view deck offering a picturesque view of the Pacific Ocean and the seascape, in general, for visitors, while on the other side is a rocky beach.

L-R: Grace, the author, Lorraine, Jun, Jandy, Lourdes and Gelyn

The rock formation deck also offers a view of the aforementioned BAMSO Museum now housed in the former LORAN (Long Range Aid to Navigation Station) constructed by the Americans in the 1960s, for Coast Guard purposes and, eventually, abandoned in the 1970s.

Check out “BAMSO Museum”

A famous scene in 1991 movie Hihintayin Kita sa Langit, wherein Richard Gomez was carrying Dawn Zulueta, was filmed here. The motorcycle scene in the 2015 film You’re My Boss, starring Toni Gonzaga (as Georgina) and Coco Martin (as Pong), was also shot here.

The “Blow Ur Horn” sign

Adding to its charm are the iconic “Blow Your Horn” signs along Mahatao’s cliff hugging roads, evidence of Ivatan ingenuity and creativity. Carved out from cliffs or boulders to prevent accidents at the blind spots, these unique, yellow-painted road signs, also associated with Batanes, were built to withstand the torrential winds of the strongest typhoons.

The uthor (left) with Grace and Jandy

Alapad Rock Formation: Brgy. Itbud, 3903 Uyugan,

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kilometers (a 45-minute drive) from Basco and 11.9 kilometers (a 25-minute drive) from Ivana.Locals usually ride their motorcycles, bicycles, tricycles, or walk to the Alapad Rock Formation. You can also join a guided tour that includes this attraction.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Chavayan Village (Sabtang, Batanes)

Chavayan Village

From Chamanatad-Tinan Viewpoint, it was just a short 1.1-km. drive, along a winding road, to the old, charming village of Chavayan.  The one of the smallest villages in Sabtang and the southernmost community in the province, it is situated between the mountains and the sea, facing the northern tip of Luzon Island. Here, you can find glimpses of the Ivatan way of life, now being threatened by our ever-changing world. Farming and fishing are the primary source of livelihood for the locals. The word chavayan was derived from the word cha (meaning “bountiful”) and vay, the arrowroot plant.

Check out “Chamanatad-Tinan Viewpoint”

Jandy, Grace and the author at the entrance to the village
L-R: Gelyn, Jun, Lorraine, Lourdes, the author, Grace and Jandy. On the left is a now unused boat winch

The iconic “welcome rotunda,” at the asdepen (or asdepan, meaning “entrance) signaled our arrival at the village. To its right is a small hut that serves as the shelter for the Sabtang Weavers Association, the most prominent feature of the village.

Sabtang Weavers Association

Here, we watched old womenfolk traditionally weaving unique souvenir items such as the soot, an Ivatan cape carefully made from finely stripped and dried banana or voyavoy palm leaves, which serves as protection from the scorching heat of the sun or the wind and rain.

Woman weaving a vakul

The vakul is a woman’s soot that covers the head and back and protects the wearer from the sun, rain and wind, keeping themselves cool during the long hours of work in the field.  The kanayi, on the other hand, is a man’s soot made with voyavoy palm leaves or dried abaca stalks.  Worn on the shoulders, it takes three weeks to a month to make but it lasts a lifetime. The talugong, a men’s headgear, normally goes along with the kanayi.

Vakul

Also displayed at their showroom are other handicrafts made out of grasses and palm trees such as abaca bags, purses, pasikin (basket), salakots,home decorations, and other handicrafts.  For photo ops, Grace Lorraine, Lourdes and Gelyn  tried out a vakul  (rented for only PhP20/vakul/person) while Jun, Jandy and I suited up with a kanayi and talugong.

A sinadumparan

Later on, we walked along the narrow street and its rows of old sinadumparan (one of the three classes of stone houses on Batanes) stone houses, a style introduced by the Spaniards when they landed in the province during the late 1800s and some of them are already more than 100 years old.  To preserve the architecture and design of the traditional houses, the provincial government has declared this villages as well as the village of Diura in Mahatao as cultural zones.

Chavayan Theater

These houses have thick walls are made with powdered limestone and corals, while the roofs are made of thatched cogon grass. Here, you can find the traditional detached Ivatan kitchen. The area has no commercial buildings and cellular site around and the life of the locals here are preserved and traditional.  The village does have a “teatro” (theater) where events are held.

Grace and Jandy in front of the Chapel of St. Rose of Lima
Interior of the chapel

Further out, located 10 m. from the beach, is the beautiful Chapel of St. Rose of Lima, the only house of worship in the islands that is still in its traditional form, with cogon grass as roofing.  With a pastel-colored façade, it was built, from 1951 to 1959, via Ivatan spirit of yaru (similar to the Filipino concept of bayanihan) organized by the late Ireneo Hornedo (who was also responsible for building the Chavayan “teatro” and the “welcome rotunda”).  Before venturing out to fish or farm, community prayers are held here before dawn, as villagers offer petitions for safety and abundance.

Monument of Satisfaction

Looking up into the cliff, you can make out Mother Nature’s most perfect sculpture; the phallic-looking Monument of Satisfaction. A small store, at the opposite end (avuyi) of the village, sells Chavayan-made native slippers or sandals, fondly called chavayanas,which fishermen use as protection for their feet on shallow, rocky coastal areas.

The road leading to the beach

On the beach near the village, a popular photo spot, are the Kissing Rocks of Chavayan Village, two unique and imposing rock formations, along the serene and breathtaking bay, that appear to “kiss’ or come close together.

The “Kissing Rocks of Chavayan Village”

Chavayan Village: National Rd., 3904 Sabtang.

How to Get There: Sabtang, on Sabtang Island, is located close to the port.  There are scheduled 30 to 45-minute early morning boat trips by falowa (round-bottomed boat) from Ivana’s Radiwan Port to Sabtang.  From the port, you can rent a tricycle to take you to the viewpoint.

Sabtang Tourist Information Center: Brgy. Sinakan, 3904 Sabtang.  Mobile number: (0929) 226-8055.  E-mail: tourismsabtang@gmail.com.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Chamantad-Tiñan Viewpoint (Sabtang, Batanes)

Chamantad-Tinan Viewpoint

From Savidug Village, we all boarded a van for the 4,1-km. (10-min.) drive Chamantad-Tiñan Viewpoint.  One of the highest viewing sites in Sabtang Island, this is where tourists can enjoy the view of Chamantad Cove below and, beyond, Balintang Channel and Batan Island. This vast landscape, seated near the cove, is renowned for its curvy grass-carpeted scenery.

Jandy and Grace

Before reaching the view point, there were plenty of huts along the highway offering a sample of their local sugarcane wine and Ivatan wild tea called tubho. At the entrance itself, there are huts where you can buy souvenirs and even taste, for free, some local delicacies as well as coconut and sugarcane wine.

Upon arrival, a calming atmosphere was provided by the sweeping landscapes and natural beauty of the vibrant colors of the rustic, rolling hills (especially during sunrise and sunset), a gentle breeze and the sound of the inviting waves crashing against the beautiful cliffs below. I could stare at this exquisite view all day.

The equivalent of Batan Island’s Racuh a Payaman and Vayang Rolling Hills, it was just beyond words and photos don’t do it justice.  Truly, Sabtang does not disappoint when it comes to rugged, breathtaking scenery and magnificent views.

Check out “Racuh a Payaman” and “Vayang Rolling Hills”

For those hiking, the 10-15-min. journey to the viewpoint is a scenic adventure in itself as it allows one to appreciate the rich biodiversity of the place. The rolling hills conquering the area come in a variety of low and high slopes giving visitors different perspectives. You can also see mountain goats climbing and balancing off the cliffs.  From here, a short walk will take you to the seascape lined with powdery white sand and small to medium-sized stones.

Souvenir shops
Voyavoy (Phoenix loureirii var hanceana) along the hillside

Chamantad-Tiñan Viewpoint: National Rd., Brgy. Chavayan, 3904 Sabtang.

How to Get There: Sabtang, on Sabtang Island, is located close to the port.  There are scheduled 30 to 45-minute early morning boat trips by falowa (round-bottomed boat) from Ivana’s Radiwan Port to Sabtang.  From the port, you can rent a tricycle to take you to the viewpoint.

Sabtang Tourist Information Center: Brgy. Sinakan, 3904 Sabtang.  Mobile number: (0929) 226-8055.  E-mail: tourismsabtang@gmail.com.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Morong Beach and Ahaw Rock (Sabtang, Batanes)

Morong Beach

Upon arrival at Sabtang Port, we all boarded our van for the short 1.8-km. drive to our first part of our day tour of Sabtang Island – the short, 300 m. long, pristine white sand Morong Beach(also called Nakabuang Beach orWhite Beach).

Arrival at Morong Beach
L-R: Jun, Lorraine, Lourdes, Gelyn, Grace and the author

Noted for its wild and natural beauty and unique rock formations, it is surrounded low, grass-covered hills on all sides and is probably the most well-known of all the beaches fringing the coast of the island. 

Despite the province’s usual rough weather, its less-ferocious, glass-like turquoise waters is peaceful and friendly enough for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Giant sea turtles come here to lay their eggs and juvenile tiger sharks patrol its waters.

Ahaw Rock

In one area of the beach is a natural sandstone rock formation, called Ahaw Arch or Nakabuang Arch, where you can pass through.  It is iconic, not just for the island, but for Batanes as a whole. This rock formation is a favorite spot for picnickers.

Waves crashing on the rocky shore

The beach’s few amenities include bathroom facilities and shaded areas with picnic tables.  There are no cottages here. Along the beach is the Paypanapanayan Canteen which serves authentic Ivatan dishes.  Also nearby is the Sabtang Weavers Association Café.

A sea-sculpted cave

Morong Beach: Sitio Morong, Brgy. Malakdang, 3904 Sabtang.

How to Get There: Sabtang, on Sabtang Island, is located close to the port.  There are scheduled 30 to 45-minute early morning boat trips by falowa (round-bottomed boat) from Ivana’s Radiwan Port to Sabtang.

Sabtang Tourist Information Center: Brgy. Sinakan, 3904 Sabtang.  Mobile number: (0929) 226-8055.  E-mail: tourismsabtang@gmail.com.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint (Cappadocia, Turkey)

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint

Prior to returning to our hotel, we made a short stopover at the Pigeon Valley (Güverçinlik Vadisi) Viewpoint. The valley, running between Uçhisar and neighboring Göreme (a walk of around two hours), has many pigeon-houses which were carved, over the course of the years, into the soft tuff rock on the sides of the fairy chimneys.

Pigeon houses carved on the side of the mountain

Inside were many niches where pigeons could roost. Nutrient-rich pigeon guano was widely used as a natural fertilizer into the 1970s. Pigeon droppings were also used to enhance the colors of the frescoes in the cave churches.

View of Uchisar Castle (upper left hand corner) and the villages below it

You can also see the otherworldly scenery of Uchisar Castle (Uçhisar Kalesi) perched on top of a rocky pinnacle.  One of the most prominent landmarks in Cappadocia, this ancient fortress, regarded as the tallest fairy chimney in the area.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

This 60 m. ( 200 ft.) high turret of golden volcanic rock was sculpted by the elements and, later, by humans, the earliest of whom are believed to be the Hittites from the second millennium BC., followed by Byzantine settlers in the 4th century AD.  It boasts stunning, unparalleled and panoramic view of Uchisar village and nearby hamlets.

The viewpoint is home to cafes selling tea, coffee and light snacks as well as a few shops selling overpriced souvenirs and local craft.  Across the street, you can take pictures or ride, for a fee, with camels.  Near the edge is a touristy love picture site for photo ops.

Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market

You can also feed the pigeons and sparrows with grain that can be bought at stores (1TL per cup). Also nearby is a hiking trail and the Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market, a store selling natural and organic Viagra, herbs, spices and different kinds of nuts (almonds, etc.) and dried apricots.

Camels for hire

Within the area is an evil eye tree dripping with Turkish nazar boncugu (which literally means “evil eye bead”) amulets which look like small shiny fruit or glinting glass eyes.  These lovely, inky blue talismans have deep cultural symbolism in Turkey and Greece.

Evil Eye Tree

Symbolizing the jealous and envious looks of others, these eye-shaped amulets are fixed to anything perceived to attract greed, envy or ill will, to ward off evil.  People who buy these (1TL each) can hang it up the tree in the direction opposite to that of the person.

Nazar boncugu

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint: Aşağı, Adnan Menderes Cd., 50240 Uçhisar/Nevşehir Merkez/Nevşehir, Türkiye.

A Hot-Air Balloon Ride in Cappadocia (Turkey)

Hot-air balloon beside a stone spire

The thrilling Hot-Air Balloon Ride of Cappadocia, one of the best ways to discover and explore this rugged, historical region in east-Central Anatolia in the Asian part of Turkey, is a must-do if you are in the area. Here, we were to see scenic Cappadocia like you’ve never seen it before, through this once-in-a-lifetime, 1.5 hour-long flight on board a colorful hot air balloon. To do this, we had to stay at least a night in Cappadocia (the balloon ride starts very early in the morning, before sunrise), staying at the Solem Cave Suites (in the province of Nevsehir), on top of a hill, with its stunning views of cave houses.  From Istanbul, it was a one hour and 20 min. flight, via Turkish Airlines, to Kayseri Erkilet Airport, our gateway to Cappadocia.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Solem Cave Suites” and “Kayseri Erkilet Airport”

Inflating the hot air balloon……

This has been planted firmly at the top of my bucket list ever since I saw photos of the magical Cappadocian landscape topped with a sky filled with colorful hot air balloons. The most popular location in the world for hot air ballooning, last year, over half of the world’s balloon trips took place in the Cappadocia region, with almost half a million people taking to the skies.

Hot air balloons now ready to take flight…..

Cappadocia has an amazing and spectacular landscape of cave-like dwellings, the animal rock formations of Devrent Valley, fairy chimneys, towns such as Mustafapasa, and the rock-hewn, domed churches dating back to the Byzantine post-Iconoclastic Period, as far back as 4th century, all sculpted by erosion over thousands of years. Today, what is left are these amazing troglodyte villages, underground cities that once contained human habitat and beautiful valleys that go for as far as the eye can see.

Balloons about to take off

Cappadocia is also one of the few places in the world you can soar in a balloon almost all year round, with trips running during boiling hot summers and snowy winters (when the whole area is covered in a thick layer of snow), with the landscape looking incredible in both. For our hot-air balloon flight, we chose Atmosfer Balloon. Based in Avanos town and under Dorak Holding, it has been around since 2010 and is Cappadocia’s fourth biggest hot air balloon company.

Balloons now taking to the air….

In the flight zone of Cappadocia, Atmosfer Balloons holds 10 slot rights (7 slots in the first flight period and 3 slots in the second).  It currently has a fleet of 18 hot-air balloons (max. flying capacity: 203 passengers) and actively employs 12 commercial pilots , 13 assistant pilots and 50 ground staff.

The author and Grace

Early in the morning (3:30 AM), a driver from Atmosfer Balloons picked us up from our hotel, along with other guests from the hotel and the nearby Dere Suites Cappadocia Hotel, and transferred us, via a Mercedes Benz van, to the balloon site.

Sunrise over Cappadocia

(photo: Sean Sta. Maria)

During our trip, we stopped by the roadside and were given a light breakfast of pastries and packed drinks while waiting for the decision, by the Directorate General of Civil Aviation (DGCA), on whether it would be safe to fly. When the green flag was given, we set off to the balloon take-off zone, chosen by our pilot, that is appropriate for the latest local weather and wind direction. Since the balloons move in the direction of the wind, they are different from each other every day.

Soaring over the moon-like landscape

At the take-off zone, we watched the stages of balloon preparation and inflation. Our unique Parliament blue and yellow-colored hot air balloon, produced by Spanish Ultra Magic company, one of the leading hot air balloon manufacturers in the world, consisted of a burner system, a basket and an envelope.

Ripstop nylon is the most common material for the envelope, but polyester and other fabrics are also used. The fabric around the lower opening (called the mouth) of the balloon are usually made from a fire resistant material like Nomex, similar to the suits that firefighters wear.

The 3,864 m. high Mount Erciyes, an inactive volcano, is the highest mountain and most voluminous volcano of Central Anatolia

To board the balloon, they lay the woven wicker basket (wicker is used because it is lightweight, flexible and easily repaired). on the side, with deflated balloons lying on their sides, and you crawl in. It was quite a sight to see, up close, the busy balloon staff setting them up, checking them for safety and starting to inflate the balloon (it takes 15 mins.).

Our balloon pilot

Balloons operate through the basic principles of gravity and heat transfer.  As the air inside the balloon is heated, it rises and, as the air inside the balloon cools, it descends.  To make the balloon fly, an inflator fan fills it with air which is then heated by propane in stainless steel fuel tanks.  hot air balloons carry 60 to 110 gallons (120 to 200kg) of propane and use roughly 75% of the fuel during a single flight.

Horseback riders

Soon after, it was time to hop into the now upright basket which is split into 5 sections – 4 squares on each side, which each fit 4 people, and a long section, in the center, for our Atmosfer Balloons pilot Yassir and his assistant.  Upon boarding our balloon, general information on flight safety and flight is given by Yassir and our flight over Cappadocia began. During flight, the balloons range from 5 m. to 800 m. in altitude.  Winds determined our balloon’s direction and Yassir steered our balloon, to a limited extent, by adjusting the balloon’s altitude to make use of different wind speeds and directions.

Cave houses

We drifted peacefully, before sunrise, for an extraordinary, amazing and unbelievably breathtaking, 360-degree views of Cappadocia, seeing all its landmarks from above. During our flight, the day was like a fiesta, with the sky filled with around 100 balloons with different colors and designs. We didn’t have to worry though (actually, the view of the other balloons in the sky made it a completely magical experience) as Cappadocia happens to be one of the most highly regulated places, with an excellent safety record.

The fairy chimneys of Cappadocia

Our pilot Yassir was very experienced, navigating the incredibly uneven landscape, flying safely so close to other balloons, in an aircraft which only has the ability to go up and down.  To fly here, he must train for around 5 times as long as in other parts of the world.  While piloting our balloon, he also explained all the sceneries that we saw during the flight.

Our hot air balloon being repacked …..

The views, over the next hour or so, were breathtaking and the landscape constantly changing color, as the minutes ticked by, as we drifted through the different areas. We passed the famous Fairy Chimneys (natural yet surreal-looking spires, up to 40 m. tall, that were carved out of soft volcanic rock by the elements over millions of years), Monk’s Valley (Pasabag Valley), the beautiful Devrent Valley (renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape which has earned the valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”), pigeon houses, plenty of cave houses and vineyards.

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Monk’s Valley “ and “Devrent Valley”

From the amazing maximum altitude of about 800 m., the panoramic views of surreal, moon-like landscape of the region was completely mind-blowing while, from the lowest points, we could almost pick fruit from the trees. The motion back to the ground was effortless and we landed precisely near the balloon’s trailer.  It took about 15 mins. to deflate the balloon and pack the balloon after flight.

The champagne toasting ceremony

Once back on dry land, we were rewarded with a champagne toasting ceremony (they are also trained in such things as champagne service and flower arrangements) and a personalized flight certificate.  Overall, it was a very impressive, professional and truly great, unparalleled and unforgettable experience.

Jandy and Grace back on dry land

Atmosfer Balloons: Cumhuriyet, Göreme Yolu No:1, 50500 Avanos/Nevşehir, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 219 26 43. E-mail: fly@atmosferballoons.com. Website: www.atmosferballoons.com.

Devrent Valley (Cappadocia, Turkey)

Devrent Valley

After our exploration of the Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag, we returned to our van and made two stopovers, at viewpoints, before proceeding to our hotel.  The first was at the beautiful Devrent Valley in Cappadocia (locally known as Imaginary Valley).

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag”

Nestled in the heart of Cappadocia, it is renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape (which has earned Devrent Valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”) that sparks the imagination and transports you to a realm of wonder.  This enchanting valley, full of unique rock formations that are some of the best formed and most thickly clustered in Cappadocia, offers a unique experience like no other.

The Camel

Most of the striking and stunning pink-hued or rosy rock cones are topped by flattish, darker stones of harder rock that sheltered the cones from the rain until all the surrounding rock was eaten away, over thousands of years by wind and water, in a process known to geologists as differential erosion, creating intriguing pillar-like shapes.

The Elephant

The beauty of this captivating spot in Cappadocia is that has very easy driving access and isn’t as crowded as the open-air museums and iconic cave dwelling locations. Devrent Valley was never inhabited by humans, making it a unique geological wonder.

The Kissing Ducks

There are no rock-cut churches or castles to explore. It’s essential to keep in mind that the valley can get crowded, especially during peak tourist seasons. To avoid crowds, consider visiting early in the morning, late in the afternoon, or during lunchtime.

The Hand

As we ventured into this mesmerizing realm, we witnessed a natural masterpiece sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion. At the entrance of the valley, one of the first sights that greet us was an enormous rock which looks like a camel. A lot more imagination is needed to spot the other whimsical animal-shaped (dolphin, seals, lions, bears, tigers, kissing birds, alligator, snake, etc.) rock formations. Other weird rock shapes resemble a Napoleon’s hat and a praying Virgin Mary. Devrent Valley left an indelible mark on my Cappadocia adventure, leaving me awe-inspired.

The Virgin Mary

Devrent Valley: Goreme El Sanatlari Carsisi No: 24 50180, Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 271 2166. Fax: +90 384 271 2337. Email: info@newgoreme.com.  The entrance to the valley is free of charge.

How to Get There: Devrent Valley is located 11.3  kms. (a 20-min. drive) from Goreme, aproximately 1 km. from Pasabag Valley, 6.6 kms. from Avanos, and 15.6 kms. from Uchisar. If you’re staying in Urgup, it’s just a short 5.7-kilometer drive to reach this enchanting destination.

The easiest way to get there is by bus or rental car directly from either Göreme or Ürgüp. Buses run regularly throughout the day, every hour departure and take around 10 – 15 minutes. The ‘Blue Route’ on the hop-on-hop-off bus also includes Devrent Valley. Devrent Valley lies on the direct (east) road between Avanos and Ürgüp. There’s no public transport along this route but if it’s not too hot and you don’t mind a roadside walk, it’s easy enough to get here on foot from Zelve. From the Zelve site entrance, go about 200m back down the access road to where the road forks and take the right-hand road marked for Ürgüp. After about 2km you’ll come to the village of Aktepe (Yeni Zelve). Bear right and follow the Ürgüp road uphill for another 2km.To cut down on walking time, the Ürgüp–Avanos dolmuş can drop you off at Aktepe. Devrent Valley is surrounded by marked hiking trails that connect it with other valleys in the region.

Ross Fountain (Edinburgh, Scotland, UK)

Ross Fountain with Edinburgh Castle in the background

The highlight of our visit to the Princes Street Gardens was our photo ops at the Ross Fountain, the focus of the western end of the gardens and the park’s most important monument.  This fountain, made from cast-iron, is a shining example of magnificent  19th century sculpture.  Photographs of the view up to the famous Edinburgh Castle from the Gardens, with this fountain in the foreground, has featured heavily in some of the iconic imagery of Edinburgh over the years.

Check out “Princes Street Gardens

At an exhibit at the Great Exhibition of 1862, an exhibition of modern art, technology and invention in London, it was purchased, on a moment of impulse and as a philanthropic gesture, by Edinburgh gunsmith Daniel Ross (who described it as “obtaining universal admiration”), in September 1869, for £2,000 and, subsequently, gifted to the city of Edinburgh.

The four female, greater than life size figures representing Science, Arts, Poetry, and Industry

That same year, it was transported to Leith, in 122 individual pieces, but sat in storage for a decade while the city council considered where they were going to put it. In 1872, it was reassembled, in its current position, at Princes Street Gardens, only a few hundred yards from the Ross Bandstand. Sadly, David Ross died in January 1871, one year before, missing the opportunity to see the masterpiece displayed in the gardens.

Some of the 8 voluptuous mermaid statues, with bared flesh, holding overflowing urns, and sitting on scallop-shell basins with lion’s heads between

In 2001, as broken pipes had made the fountain inoperational, the fountain had some extensive restoration work completed. In 2008, water was turned off and, from July 2017, it was closed again for further restoration work, costing 1.9 million pounds, undertaken by Lost Art Limited of Wigan on behalf of The Ross Development Trust. On July 8, 2018, it was re-inaugurated by Lord Provost Frank Ross and others, including the Head of Mission at the French Consulate in Edinburgh Emmanuel Cocher.

The beautifully modeled and semi-naked female figure, holding the topmost cornucopia, which scandalized Victorian Edinburgh at the time.

The fountain, now with a new pump that will be switched on permanently, is now painted in eye-catching turquoise, brown and gold which, according to the organizers, should last for at least 20 years. The figures were sculpted by artist Jean-Baptiste Jules Klagmann (b. April 1810) whose other work includes figures for the Louvre and D’ Medici fountains in Luxembourg Gardens in Paris.  It is also unusual in that, rather than having been produced by one of the great Scottish foundries of the day, it was produced at the iron foundry of  Antoine Durenne, ‘Maitre de Forges, Sommevoire Haute Marne’ in SommevoireFrance.

The fountain’s circular basin has curved Craigleith sandstone edges and the first elevated basin is decorated with stylized “walrus” heads round the edge. The first tier of the central column has 8 voluptuous mermaid statues, with bared flesh, holding overflowing urns, and sitting on scallop-shell basins with lion’s heads between. Swags and cornucopia abound, and the bowls above have cherub-faced spouts.

The author (right) with Jandy and Grace (photo: Selena Sta. Maria))

Near the top, with water basins held up by mermaid children, are four female greater than life size figures representing Science, Arts, Poetry, and Industry seated between semicircular basins. The structure is surmounted by a final, beautifully modeled and semi-naked female figure, holding the topmost cornucopia, which scandalized Victorian Edinburgh at the time. All this combines to produce a fountain that is over 40 ft. high and over 100 tons in weight. 

Ross Fountain: West Princes Street Gardens, Princes Street EH2 2HG, Edinburgh. Tel: 0131 529 7921. E-mail: parks@edinburgh.gov.uk.

Pitlochry (Scotland, U.K.)

Pitlochry

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From the Commando Memorial, in Spean Bridge, we drove another 104 kms. (a 1.5 hour drive, via the A86 and A9), to Pitlochry, our last stopover.  This was to be our last toilet break, prior to our return to Edinburgh, and there was a long queue at the town’s public toilet (or the “loo” as they call it), causing a lot of misery (plus they charge 50p per person for using it), so we walked, for about 320 m., along Atholl Road (the main road), to Fishers Hotel where we used the toilet for free.

Check out “Commando Memorial” and “Spean Bridge

Grace and Jandy strolling along Atholl Road (the main road). On the other side are the unusual period cast iron canopy.

This town, lying on the River Tummel, in the Perth and Kinross council area of Scotland is, historically, in the county of Perthshire. Largely a Victorian town, it was developed into a tourist resort after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the area in 1842 and bought a highland estate at Balmoral, and the arrival of the railway in 1863. Popular as a base for coach holidays, it is particularly known for its Pitlochry Festival Theatre and salmon ladder.

Surrounded by mountains such as Ben Vrackie and Schiehallion, it also a centre for hillwalking. The town has retained many stone Victorian buildings and the high street has an unusual period cast iron canopy over one side.   The town has two whisky distilleries, whose visitor centers are popular attractions.  The privately owned Edradour, the smallest legal distillery in Scotland, sits to the east of town at the foot of the Moulin Moor and produces only 12 casks per week with a production workforce of three men.

The last example of a traditional distillery, it has remained unchanged since it started making whisky, and is hugely popular with visitors. Blair Athol Distillery, which dates back to 1798, sits on the main road at the southeast of town and, since 1933, has been owned by Bell’s, now part of the Diageo group.  Pitlochry station is home to Pitlochry Station Bookshop. The bookshop was set up in 2005 and is situated on Platform 1.

MacNaughtons of Pilochry

MacNaughtons of Pitlochry, one of Scotland’s oldest retail establishments (dating back to 1835 in the reign of William IV), is a traditional country and highland clothing retail shop with the finest formal kilt wear knowledge of tartans and kilt outfit accessories.

Back on board our bus, we arrived back in Edinburgh by 8:30 PM and we were all dropped off at our original meeting place at Deacon’s House Cafe. From there, we all walked back to our respective hotels.

MacNaughtons of Pitlochry: Station Road, Pitlochry, PH16 5AF United Kingdom.  Tel: 01796 472722.  Open Mondays to Saturdays, 9.30 AM – 4.30 PM. .Email: sales@macnaughtonsofpitlochry.com.

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com.

How to Get There: Pitlochry is located 114 kms. (a 1.5-hour drive, via A9 and M90) from Edinburgh and 134.2  kms. (a 1.5-hour drive via A9) from Glasgow.