Category Archives: Sightseeing

Pike Place Starbucks Store (Seattle, Washington, U.S.A.)

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Pike Place Starbucks Store

After lunch at Seafood City, Val drove Danny and I to the historic Pike Place Market in the downtown core of Seattle, Washington,.  Once parked, we walked towards the Pike Place Starbucks Store (also known as the Original Starbucks), the first Starbucks store in the world.

Check out “Pikes Place Market“

The store front

A known tourist attraction, it was hosting crowds during our visit. In fact, they say there was never a day without The Line which winds out the door and stretches down the street but it also keeps on moving as the baristas there are said to be as good as any on the planet.

However, many people, just like us, didn’t come to 1912 Pike for a cup of coffee. Instead, we came to experience the place where it all began. Founded in 1971, the store was opened by Jerry Baldwin, Zev Siegl and Gordon Bowker, three partners who were inspired by Alfred Peet of Peet’s Coffee to open the store and sell high-quality, freshly roasted coffee beans, tea and spices from around the world to take home as well as coffee making equipment and accessories.

The store interior

The name was inspired by the  Moby Dick, the 1851 classic tale of Herman Melville, which evoked the romance of the high seas and seafaring tradition of early coffee traders.  The name of the store was originally going to be called Cargo House or Pequod (Captain Ahab”s hip in the book), but the brand consultant (who also designed the chain’s logo , produced from an old 1800s map), but decided on Starbuck, the first mate and no-nonsense crew member on the Perquod. Starbos is also the name of a mining town which features in the book.

Everything in the entire store, truly one of a kind, is original, from the floors, the fixtures, the counters, etc.  They also still proudly display the brass labels that were on their bulk coffee bins in 1971.  However, while it commonly referred to as the first Starbucks location, the current address is the second for the Pike Place store as, for five years, the first restaurant was located at 2000 Western Avenue. In 1977, it moved one block away to 1912 Pike Place where it has been in continuous operation ever since.

Val Salgado, the author and Danny Macaventa outside the store

The sign outside this branch, unlike others, features the original logo – a seductive, bare-breasted siren that was modeled after a 15th-century Norse woodcut. It also features a pig statue called “Pork’n Beans,” a sculpture created locally for the 2001 Pigs on Parade competition that raised money for the Pike Place Market Foundation.

Starbucks logo from 1971 to 1987

Pike Place Starbucks Store: 1912 Pike Place, Seattle 98101, Washington .  Tel: +1 206-448-8762. Coordinates: 47.609899°N 122.342441°W.

Honda Celebration of Light (Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada)

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Honda Celebration of Lights

Grace, Jandy and I were lucky that our one-and-a half month long visit coincided with the 30th edition of the Honda Celebration of Light (formerly known as Benson & Hedges Symphony of Fire and The HSBC Celebration of Light), an annual international musical fireworks competition and one of Vancouver’s largest and most well-known festivals. Recognized as the largest and longest running off-shore fireworks competitions in the world, this multiple-day event has an estimated annual attendance of 1.4 million people.

People making their way, on foot, to Alexandra Park, English Bay Beach

The first “Symphony of Fire” was held from July 25 to August 5, 1990 with some the world’s best fireworks pyro technicians, from 3 counties, competing over 3 nights to present the best show. The event was last held in 2019 as in 2020, the competition was cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic in British Columbia.

Kyle, Bryan and Grace joining the crowd

This year’s much anticipated festival that embodies summer was held on July 23 (Saturday), with Japan’s Akariya Fireworks participating; on July 27 (Wednesday), with Canada’s award-winning Midnight Sun Fireworks participating; and July 30 (Saturday), with Spain’s Pirotecnia Zaragozana participating.

Mounted police patrolling at the corner of Beach Avenue and Denman Street

We attended the last mentioned.  Prior to the fireworks show, the Red Bull Air Show did a spectacular pre-show performance (happening on all three festival nights), with formation flyovers performed from the iconic Canadian Snowbird team, presented by Concord Pacific, at English Bay.

Alexandra Park slowing filling up with people

Joined by our grandson Kyle, we were to be met by my son-in law Bryan who booked an Uber to bring us to Alexandra Park.  We never got near there as road closures were already in effect from 7 PM in the West End, including Davie, Denman and Beach Avenue. Access roads into Kits Point were also closed from 6 PM.

The gazebo at Alexandra Park

Roads will only re-open once the crowds have dispersed and police have given their all clear at approximately 11 PM.  Instead, we were dropped off at Bidwell Street and walked over to a MacDonalds along Robson Street where we met with Bryan.

English Bay Beach already filled up

Together, the five of us joined others, on bikes, scooters or on foot, who were headed towards the festival site.  It was as if the entire city was moving in the same direction, with all roads lead to the English Bay. Policemen, on horseback, were patrolling the streets, scanning the crowd and seemingly looking for people with alcohol, making us feel very safe. As we got closer to the beach, we realized the magnitude of this event.

Upon reaching Alexandra Park, we chose a nice grassy spot unobstructed by trees, near the corner of Burnaby Street and Beach Avenue.  We came prepared as we brought along three portable folding seats, a beach mat, snacks and water.  The park was already slowly filling up.  There’s much more happening here than just fireworks as a whole family fun type of party atmosphere was happening, with and food carts, food vendors and concession stands were doing brisk business.

The Concord Lounge at English Bay

People and sunset watching was part of the fun too.  As it was early, we strolled along the English Bay Beach already seemingly packed with hundreds of thousands of people, many in swimming attire.  Never before had I seen so many people coming together.

Dinner with a view at Concord Lounge

The reserved seating of the Grandstand, the most popular of the festival’s ticketed venues for visitors, families or groups, offering elevated and direct sightlines to the fireworks barges, was also filled up.  Other reserved seating venues were the Concord Lounge at the Inukshuk Peninsula, overlooking English Bay, and the Scotiabank Lounge on the bathhouse roof in English Bay.

The Grandstand along English Bay

The pyro-musical performance can also be seen and heard from vantage points throughout Metro Vancouver such as Vanier Park at the edge of English Bay, Kitsilano Beach, the pedestrian sidewall at Burrard Bridge (standing room only), Dundarave Pier at the West end of West Vancouver seawall, Kits Point, Sunset Beach, Stanley Park and at sailboats and yachts on English Bay.

English Bay packed with yachts, speedboats and kayaks

Promptly, at 9 PM, the carefully designed and planned synchronized fireworks were launched from barges located in English Bay, regaling the crowd with a spectacular, 25-minute fireworks display, over the water, set to accompanying music so the colored lights seem like they’re dancing to the rhythm.

Sunset over English Bay

It was a spectacular show by the Spanish team, with brilliant firework shapes and colors we had never seen before. The mind blowing finale was one of the most incredible we have ever seen.  I can’t even imagine how much it cost so set up such a show.

Jandy and the author all set to watch the fireworks show at Alexandra Park

After the wonderful and free show, we packed up our chairs and joined the crowd making their way back home.  The frustration at trying to leave English Bay or the downtown core after the show was the only drawback.

We booked an Uber but had to walk a number of blocks to be picked up. Still, this attraction was well worth our time and the best part is that’s its absolutely FREE. The fireworks were excellent, the crowd was huge but well behaved, the overall atmosphere was friendly and cool and it was a fun event well worth going to when visiting Vancouver. It certainly helped that the weather was fine and warm.

The three teams representing their country and setting their colorful expressions to music were judged on the Sizing of the Show, Overall Design and Artistry, Synchronization, Originality of Effects, Quality of Soundtrack and Quality of Fireworks.

The winning team, announced on Tuesday, August 2, was the Canadian Team which delivered the show-stopping performance with a breathtaking display that pushed creative boundaries, according to a press release. It was a pleasant and memorable evening that made Vancouver look absolutely stunning. Over the course of the festival’s three nights, there were approximately 1.3 million attendees.

Honda Celebration of Light: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Website: www.hondacelebrationoflight.com.

Maragondon Cultural River Cruise (Cavite)

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Maragodon Cultural River Cruise

Part Three of “Drive, Dine and Discover” Cavite Caravan

From the Bonifacio Trial Museum, it was a short 5-min., 1.2-km. drive, via narrow alleys, to Caingin Fish Port, the gateway to our Maragondon Cultural River Cruise.  Docked at the port were two gaily decorated balsas (bamboo rafts), of operator Balsa de Santo Nino, for our two-hour cruise of part of the scenic, 35.6 km. long  Maragondon River (average width: 10 m.), one of six major river basins of Cavite, once adjudged as among the country’s cleanest and greenest bodies of water.  Each balsa can carry 10 to 15 passengers.

Check out “Bonifacio Trial Museum Revisited”

Caingin Fish Port and the Caingin Hanging Bridge

Also docked at the port was another larger floating restaurant type of raft similar to the one used in the Loboc River Cruise in Bohol.  According to AAP Lakbay consultant Ms. Eva Carmona, it was booked for a wedding reception. Nearby, across this river, was the dangling and swaying Caingin Hanging Bridge.  Erected in December 1999, it is the link going to the 280 m. high Mt. Buntis. 

Check out “Loboc River Cruise”

A floating restaurant type of raft

Upon boarding the two balsas, we were soon on our way, our balsas towed by a motorized banca. Cruising along the turquoise waters and the heavily vegetated riverbank, we also passed the Pinagsanhan Hanging Bridge (the link going to the 100 m. high Mt. Nagpatong, home of the Andres Bonifacio National Shrine) and some settlements, watching local residents doing their daily chores as we enjoyed the serene landscape of the river.

Boarding our respective balsas…..

On board …..

Throughout the cruise, we were serenaded by a quartet (2 men and 2 women), in native attire, rendering folk songs.  Our cruise took us, for 2 kms., from Brgy. Caingin to the boundary of the neighboring town of Ternate, before turning back to return to port.

Our on board entertainment …..

Each of our balsas had a bamboo table and benches. One had a bamboo deck, accessible by a bamboo stair, as a roof.  Arrayed on the table was our packed lunch catered by Honorio’s Restaurant, a Maragondon culinary icon.

Pack lunch catered by Honorio’s

Our lunch fare consisted of sinigang sa miso, pork adobo sa patis (wherein the soy sauce was replaced by fish sauce), pakbet and a dessert of sliced watermelon.  These we all washed down with bottled water or fresh buko juice straight from the shell.

Our balsa also towed a small 1.2 x 1.2 m. (4 x 4 ft.) outriggered bamboo raft (trono de hila) with a bamboo chair (or throne) on it where one or two passengers can take selfies or be photographed from the larger balsa.

Boarding the trono de hila …..

The author seated at the trono de hila

Also on board our balsa are two rubber inner tubes for those who want to engage in river floating.  Other recreational activities that could be done on the river include wakeboarding, with a motorized banca pulling you.

The Cavite Caravan participants

For those who still have time after the cruise, you can also visit the Maragondon Stone Sculptures (popularly called ukit-ukit) which are accessible by tricycle from the riverside of Brgy. Caingin.  It consists  of 9 religious images of Biblical scenes (the Last Supper, Pieta, Jesus Christ and the Virgin and the Christ) as well as Pope John Paul II carved directly on adobe outcrops along the road, last March 2014, by brothers Valerio and Oscar Suarez, both former ice sculptors.

Maragondon Stone Carvings (photo: Visit Maragondon Facebook Page)

Balsa de Santo Nino River Cruise: Brgy. Caingin Poblacion, Maragondon, 4112 Cavite.  Mobile numbers: (0926) 593-5902.

Maragondon Municipal Tourism Office: G/F, Municipal Bldg., Brgy. Poblacion 1-A, Maragondon, 4112 Cavite.  Tel: (046) 686-3139. Mobile number: (0926) 237-6537.

Automobile Association of the Philippines (AAP): AAP Tower, 683 Aurora Blvd., Quezon City 1112. Tel: (632) 8723-0808 and (632) 8705-3333. Website: www.aap.org.ph. E-mail:  info@aap.org.ph.

AAP Lakbay, Inc.: G/F, Sea Tower Bldg., 332 Roxas Blvd. cor. Arnaiz St., Pasay City.  Tel: (32) 8551-0025 and (632) 8403-543.  E-mail: aaplakbay.caravan@gmail.com.  Coordinates:
14.5456531, 120.9914728.

Phillip Island – Cowes (Melbourne Australia)

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Cowes

From the Nobbies Ocean Discovery Center, we again boarded our coach for the 15-km. drive, via the Ventnor Rd./C473, to Cowes, the main township and largest town on Phillip Island, for some sightseeing.  Phillip Island Road, the main road of the island, led us into Cowes, becoming Thompson Avenue, the town’s main road.

Facing towards French Island and the Mornington Peninsula, Cowes has a small 2016 population of 4,839.

Check out “Phillip Island – Nobbies Ocean Discovery Center“

Originally known as Mussel Rocks, it was renamed, in 1865, by government surveyor Henry Cox after the seaport town of Cowes on the Isle of Wight, England.

In fact, many of the town’s roads are named after other towns and villages on the Isle of Wight, the island that inspired Cowe’s as well as the town of Ventnor‘s names. A Post Office was opened here on August 1, 1869.

In recent years, Cowes, in the Gippsland region on the northern side of the island, has rapidly expanded in its size with many estates and apartments being built, on what was previously rural farmland, in and around the town. An estimated 70% of the houses here are owned by absentee owners, most of whom live in and around Melbourne.

An ideal base to explore Phillip Island’s many attractions, Cowes is 12 kms. from the famous Phillip Island Penguin Parade at Summerlands, 14 kms. from the scenic Nobbies rock formations and visitor center, 6 kms. from the Phillip island Grand Prix Circuit, 7 kms. from the Koala Conservation Centre and 9 kms. from the peaceful fishing village of Rhyll.

Cowes Beach

We were all dropped off at Thompson Avenue whose distinctive features are Golden Cypress trees (recognized by the National Trust of Australia), planted in the early 20th century, which lines the road for 1 km.

Walking further into commercial center of Cowes, the road began a gradual descent, terminating with a T-intersection at the waterfront. As we approached the waterfront, the density of restaurants, cafes, gift shops, hotels, supermarkets and general retail outlets, all catering to the busy holiday crowds, increased.

At the end of Thompson Avenue was the waterfront boulevard of The Esplanade and the attractive, not too crowded and well maintained Cowes foreshore which stretches between Mussel Rocks and Erehwon Point.

Cheska, Bryan and Kyle among the rock formations of Cowes Beach

The foreshore, consisting of wide expanses of lawn shaded by a mixture of native and cypress trees, complete with barbecue areas, picnic shelters and pathways, slopes down to the clean, sheltered, golden sand Cowes Beach whose inviting waters are popular with swimmers and families. Showers, changing rooms and toilets are all located close to the beach.

Nearby is the Cowes War Memorial, a granite memorial obelisk erected in 1920 in memory of the 13 men of Phillip Island who made the supreme sacrifice in World War One. Names of the fallen from World War Two were added at a later date.

War Memorial

On the beach, opposite the Isle of Wight Hotel (which was built in 1870), is the Cowes Jetty.

Cowes Jetty

Built in 1870, it remains a focal point of the town. At its entrance is an outdoor café.

Its T-shaped jetty structure, the departure point for several ferries and tourist boat cruises, is also suitable for fishing.

Outdoor Cafe

Cowes: Phillip Island, Victoria, Australia.

How to Get There: Cowes is about a 2 hours’ drive, by road to the mainland via a bridge at San Remo, from Melbourne and can also be reached by coach, or passenger ferry from Stony Point on the Mornington Peninsula.

Jiufen Old Street (Taipei, Taiwan)

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The scenic mountain village of Jiufen

After our arrival in Taipei and a deliciously filling lunch at Chien-Yen Shabu Shabu, we all boarded our tourist bus for the nearly one-hour drive to Jiufen (also spelled Jioufen or Chiufen), a small village in the mountains, arriving there by 2:45 PM. The weather was overcast, with some light rain. The town of Jiufen is built into the side of the hills, slightly inland from the Pacific Ocean coastline.

Check out “Restaurant Review: Chien-Yen Shabu Shabu“

Panoramic view of the Pacific coastline

In 2001, the village has been made more popular largely due to its similarity to the downtown in Hayao Miyazaki’s popular, Oscar-winning Japanese anime movie Spirited Away by Studio Ghibli. Jiufen soon became a must visit place among Japanese tourists, with many Japanese travel magazines and guide books about Taiwan introduced Jiufen. However, Miyazaki himself denied that Jiufen was the model city of the movie

The author at the entrance of Shan Yu Hai B&B

The village can be explored in under 3 hours but, as we were pressed for time, Mr. Vincent Chen, our friendly Eagle Tours guide, allotted us just an hour to explore the village. From a viewpoint at the Taiyang parking lot, we had sweeping but hazy views of the mountains and the Pacific Ocean.

Map of Jiufen Village

I, together with Joyce Ventura, explored all the way up to Fushan Temple while Jandy and most of the group explored the bustling, 24-hour, extremely touristy and crowded Jiufen Old Street, a narrow alleyway lined up with small food stalls, authentic tea houses, souvenir shops, and pottery stores.  They got there via Qiche Road, climbing up the long series of stairs that crosses over to the heart of Jiufan.

Check out “Fushan Temple”

The approach to Fushan Temple (top right)

Jiufen Old Street is actually composed of three parallel streets – Jishan Street (which runs along the ridge line), Cingbian Road and Qiche Road.  Jishan Street is the most densely populated with snacks and specialty shops.

Shuqi (or Shuchi) Road, perpendicular to the three, runs up and down the slope of the hill and comprises hundreds of stone steps with many teahouses.

The long, steep and narrow stairway leading to the center of the village

Shops here sell street food such as beef noodle soup, fish ball soup, ice cream peanut pancakes and Jiufen’s famous country snacks such as Ah Lan Glutinous Rice Cake, Taro Glutinous Rice Cake, Hongzao (Oxo Cubes) Meatball, cold or hot Ah Gan Taro Balls,  A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll, Taiwanese Sausages (Wu Di ‘Flower Lady’), Zhang Ji Traditional Fish Balls.  You can also buy locally produced ginger tea and plum wine.

Red lanterns were everywhere….

The century-old, richly decorated and picturesque, multi-storey A-Mei Teahouse, said to be the inspiration behind the Bath House in Spirited Away. Popularly known as the Grand Tea House, it is the most famous structure in all of Jiufen.  Perched on top of a hill, it is strategically located just a little off the main street. From its balcony, it has a picturesque view of Keelung Mountain to the right and northern shores of Taiwan on the left. You definitely need to book ahead if you want to have a tea here.

Souvenir store

Another noted teahouse is the City of Sadness Restaurant, an eatery overlooking the square, where A City of Sadness, another critically acclaimed movie (and the first film to touch on the February 28 Incident of 1947, in which thousands of people were massacred, then a taboo subject in Taiwan) by Hou Hsiao-hsien was filmed.  This film masterpiece bagged the  Golden Lion Award during the 1989 Venice Film Festival.

Railway tunnel

Jiufen was also known as a gold mining town.  In 1890, flakes of gold were discovered by workmen constructing the new Taipei-Keelung Railway and the resulting gold rush hastened the village’s development into a town.

Jandy beside a statue of a miner

During World War II, Kinkaseki, a POW camp for Allied soldiers captured in Singapore, was set up in the town and the POWs here were made to work in the nearby mines.

Mine entrance leading to the Taiwan Sweet Potato Teahouse

After the war, gold mining activities declined and the mine was shut down in 1971 for safety reasons.  A graffiti-filled mining tunnel, located right next to the A-Mei Teahouse, serves as a quaint entrance to Taiwan Sweet Potato Teahouse.

Teahouse at Taiyang parking lot

At Jiufen Gold Ore Museum, you can learn more about Jiufen’s history as a mining town.

Jiufen Police Station

Jiufen Old Street: Jishan Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224. Tel:  +886 2 2496 8978.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen). 

How to Get There: Take the MRT blue line to Zhongxiao Fuxing Station Exit 1, then take bus 1062 to Jiufen Old Street Station. The town is served by buses that run from Keelung, Taipei, etc. The nearest train station is Rueifang Station of the TRA Yilan Line, which is 15 minutes away by bus.

Tai O Fishing Village (Lantau Island, Hong Kong)

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Entrance to Tai O Fishing Village

From the Ngong Ping Village, we walked towards the bus terminal and boarded Bus 21 which leaves about every hour or so for Tai O (Chinese: 大澳) Fishing Village, a short 15-min. (6.7- km). drive via the Lantau Trail Section 4 and Tai O Rd.

Check out “Ngong Ping Village“

This quaint and picturesque fishing town is partly located on an island of the same name on the western side of Lantau Island in Hong Kong. Despite damage by a large fire in July 2000, Tai O is still a tourist spot for both foreigners and residents of other parts of Hong Kong.

The village’s name, meaning “large inlet,” refers to the outlet for Tai O Creek and Tai O River which merges as it moves through Tai O. On the southwest part of Lantau Island, the Tai O River splits to the north (as Tai O Creek) and west.  At this fork lies the island referred to as Tai O.

The village is located mostly on the banks of the Tai O River. Two pedestrian bridges cross the river on its northern and western forks. The western and northern parts of the island, facing the South China Sea, are uninhabited.

For a short time, Tai O was once occupied by Portuguese during the Battle of Tamao (a naval battle, in 1521, where the Ming imperial navy defeated a Portuguese fleet led by Diogo Calvo).

Souvenir items

In 1729, a fort was built at nearby Fan Lau  to protect shipping on the Pearl River. When the British came to Hong Kong, Tai O was then known as a village of the Tanka, a community of fisher folk who’ve, for generations, built their houses on stilts above the tidal flats of Lantau Island.

Dried squid

During and after the Chinese Civil War, Tai O became a primary entry point for illegal immigration for those (mostly Cantonese) escaping from the People’s Republic of China, some of whom stayed in Tai O.  Tai O also attracted people from other Hong Kong ethnic groups, including Hoklo (Hokkien) and Hakka.

Dried fish

Tai O used to be a very important trading and fishing port, but this is a thing of the past. Currently, while many residents still continue to fish, the fishing lifestyle in Tai O is dying out as it barely provides a subsistence income. Though there is a public school on the island, most of its young people move away when they come of age.  Today, tourism seems to be Tai O’s drawcard with the Stilt Village it’s biggest attraction.

The harbor

Upon arrival at the bus terminus, we walked towards the lively, traditional seafood market.  A feast for the eyes (but, perhaps, not the nose), we strolled through its stalls and alleys, checking out the live seafood tanks and the vast array of dried traditional salted fish, shrimp paste, XO sauce, salted egg yolk, laogong bin (husband cake), vegetables (some of which we did not recognize), knick knacks and souvenirs (pearl jewelry) being sold at storefronts.

Boarding our kaido

At the booth of Tai O Boat Excursion Limited, we boarded one its kaidos (small ferry boats that accommodates around 10-12 people) that would take us on an approximately 20-min. tour (which we booked beforehand online) along the river, for a close up view, of activity surrounding the harbor and the daily life in the stilt houses and, then, for a short jaunt into the sea.

Stilt houses along the river

Our ride first took us for a look at the stilt houses (pang uks) right over the waterway. In spite of the houses’ dilapidated look, the village is still a quite scenic and enchanting photographer’s paradise.

The unusual but traditional stilt houses, with its pretty setting on the coast framed by the mountains, is predominant of the old Southern Chinese fishing villages and one of the few remaining places where you can still see them in Hong Kong.

Sun Ki Bridge

All interconnected, they form a tightly knit community that literally lives on the water. There are also cafes and restaurant alongside the river plus some old house boats.

Tai Chung Bridge

After riding around the stilt village, our boat then headed out to the harbor and open sea. Before heading out to sea, we passed underneath the Tai Chung Bridge, a manually operated steel pedestrian drawbridge spanning the narrow creek dividing the town which replaced, in October 1996, a  rope-drawn “ferry,” tended by local Tanka women for over 85 years, which used to be quite popular with visitors. The Sun Ki Bridge, completed in 1979, also connects the village to the mainland.

A pair of fishing boats

As we cruised along the harbor, we saw fishermen coming and going and cleaning and putting away catch and gear, all traces of what this active fishing port used to be. Out at sea, we saw some some beautiful cliffs and rock formations along the coastline of Lantau Island.

The coastline of Lantau Island

Many tourists also come to Tai O to see the sunset and, specifically, to take boat trips to see rare, endangered Chinese white dolphins (also known as “Pink Dolphins”) but it was too early for the former and we didn’t see any of the latter. From afar, we espied the Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HZMB), the cross-border mega bridge linking Lantau with Macau and Zhuhai which, incidentally, official opened on that day.

Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HZMB)

Though Tai O is known as the “Venice of Hong Kong” or “Venice of the Orient,” don’t expect too much of a comparison as its stilt house architecture is a far cry from that of the famous and romantic Italian city.

The author

With Lantau Island becoming much more accessible, through new transportation options, and the new influx of tourists to the Big Buddha and Ngong Ping area, things in Tai O are changing fast.  Though still very much a quaint fishing village, sooner or later Tai O cannot escape the inevitable phase of development that is bound to come. Still, Tai O was definitely worth the trip from Hong Kong.

How to Get There:

  • From Central, take the ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then Bus No. 1 to Tai O bus terminus. The bus journey takes approximately 50 minutes.
  • From Kowloon, the easiest way is to get there is taking the MTR to Tung Chung Station, then Bus No. 11 to Tai O. From Tung Chung Station Exit B, take Ngong Ping Cable Car to Ngong Ping Village (approximately 25 minutes) then take Bus No. 21 (HK$6.6 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK14 on Sundays and public holidays) to Tai O terminus (approximately 20 minutes). Sometimes Bus No. 21 fills up quick so, instead of waiting for the next one, consider a taxi (the taxi stands are right next to the bus stop). The taxi ride costs about HK50.At the terminus, walk for around five minutes to the steel drawbridge and then take a stroll along the waterfront.
  • By New Lantau Bus, Tai O can be reached from Mui Wo(Bus No. 1, HK$12 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK20 on Sundays and public holidays), Tung Chung (Bus No. 11, HK$12 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK120 on Sundays and public holidays) and Ngong Ping (Bus No. 21).
  • There are ferry piers on Tai O, close to Tai O bus terminus. It operates daily as the following routes connecting Tai O with Tuen Mun(Tuen Mun Ferry Pier, service by Fortune Ferry), Tung Chung (Tung Chung New Development Ferry Pier, service by Fortune Ferry) and Sha Lo Wan (operated by Fortune Ferry).

Tai O Fishing Village: Lantau Island, Hong Kong. Boat rides are offered by the locals and you will have no trouble getting on one.  As soon as you get off the bus or as you walk around the market, you will find somebody peddling their services. The boats depart from many points, including the bridge and the main marina, but they all cover the same main spots.  Prices for the boat rides are negotiable.  You are expected to pay about HK20 per adult (half for children) but, the bigger your group, the more leverage you will have.

Ngong Ping 360 (Hong Kong)

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On board the Ngong Ping 360 cable car.  L-R: Bryan, the author, Kyle, Jandy, Cheska and Grace

Our fourth day in Hong Kong was reserved for Ngong Ping 360, which consists of a continuous circulating bi-cable aerial ropeway gondola lift system (referred to by its operators as a “cable car”) ride and a themed Ngong Ping Village, plus its nearby sites such as the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha), Po Lin Monastery, and the Tai O Fishing Village .

Check out “Po Lin Monastery, Tian Tan Buddha “Tai O Fishing Village,” and Ngong Ping Village“

The long queue for tickets at Tung Chung Terminal

From Yau Ma Tei Station, we all took the Tsuen Wan line to Lai King where we transferred to the Tung Chung line (Orange Line) and got off at Tung Chung Station. As we all had an Octopus card (their equivalent of Singapore’s EZ-link card) plus Cheska easily found our way around on the MTR, getting there was a breeze. The whole trip took all of 40 mins., passing 9 stations along the way.

Getting our passes at the exclusive Klook VIP counter

Once we got to Tung Chung station, we followed the signage out of the station (Exit B).  Past Citygate Outlets, we found the Ngong Ping 360 cable car terminal. When we got there, the queue was long, with long waiting times, for those purchasing tickets on the spot even if this this was on a Wednesday afternoon. I could only imagine how bad it can get during peak periods. Lucky for us, Cheska used Klook to get us cheaper cable car tickets.  At the Klook VIP counter, she simply flashed the e-voucher to redeem our physical ticket.

At the shorter queue for Crystal Cabin passengers

Once again, in order to avoid long queues, Cheska got us round trip tickets costing HK$210 each on Klook versus HK$255 on the official Ngong Ping 360’s website (tickets available two weeks in advance) which Cheska found reliable and easy to use, especially with her mobile app.

A set of cable cars

Her choice of the crystal cabin (the cable car with a glass bottom) was deliberate as the snaking queue for the standard, non-glass-bottomed cabin, though a fair bit cheaper, tended to be far longer. This turned out to be true. Both sets of cabins circulate on the same cable but their passengers are segregated by queuing systems at both terminals.

Kyle seated on the transparent, 3-layer, 5 cm. thick glass bottom of our cable car

Past the queue, we got on the cable car.  As they usually try to fit in about 7–8 people per cabin (and standing room for another 7) and our group was smaller than that, a couple joined us in our cabin.

Yat Tung Estate on Lantau Island

It was to be a 25-minute, 5.7-km. (3.5 mi.) ride to Ngong Ping Village.  The system has a capacity of 3,500 people per hour in each direction.

Ngong Ping Cable Car Angle Station

The lift system runs across eight towers (including the stations) with five of the towers located within the country park. From Tung Chung Terminal, our cable car ran across Tung Chung Bay to Airport Island Angle Station on Chek Lap Kok, where it turns through about 60 degrees before returning across Tung Chung Bay.

Ngong Ping 360’s magnificent views

It then ran up the Lantau North Country Park to another angle station near Nei Lak Shan (Nei Lak Shan Angle Station), before finally descending to the Ngong Ping Terminal.

Hong Kong International Airport

It changed direction twice at the two angle stations, one on the south shore of Chek Lap Kok; the other west of Nei Lak Shan within the Lantau North Country Park.

Boardwalk at Lantau North Country Park

Waterfall at Lantau North Country Park

During the 25 minute journey, we had a stunning bird’s eye view, from our windows as well as from our transparent, three-layer 5 cm. thick glass floor, over the verdant landscape of North Lantau Country Park, the South China Sea, the southern shore of Hong Kong International Airport, the Tung Chung valley, Ngong Ping Plateau and surrounding terrain and waterways. As we approached Ngong Ping, we saw The Big Buddha and the Po Lin Monastery.

Kaido cruising Tung Chung Bay

Ngong Ping Cable Car: Runs daily, 10 AM to 6 PM.

A Symphony of Lights (Hong Kong)

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A Symphony of Lights

A Symphony of Lights (Chinese: 幻彩詠香江, SoL)), a daily multimedia light and sound show in Hong Kong setting the harbor ablaze every night since January 17, 2004 (initially with walls of 18 buildings as a performance venue), is an orchestration of music, decoration lights, laser light displays and pyrotechnic fireworks conceptualized, created, and installed by LaserVision.

Victoria Harbor during daylight

According to the Guinness World Records, it is the world’s largest permanent light and sound show. Organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, the show is held, with good weather, every night at 8 pm Hong Kong Time (UTC+8) and lasts for around 14 minutes. Recognized as one of the world’s most spectacular light shows, it has become the signature icon for Hong Kong, showcasing the vibrancy and glamorous night vista of the city and symbolizing its dynamic energy and contrasting culture.

Promenade Deck

Since December 23, 2005, the Symphony of Lights extended to the Kowloon peninsula (including the Tsim Sha Tsui and Hung Hom). In December 2017, exciting, new elements plus a new musical score entwined with a vibrant and contemporary flavor, performed by the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, were introduced, taking on a new direction and transforming Hong Kong’s cityscape into a true symphony representing its charismatic rhythm.

Promenade Deck

Traditional Chinese flutes and bowed string instruments (such as the erhu), have been interwoven to create a truly distinctive sound, matching Hong Kong’s character of “East meets West.” In 2018, a second phase was launched, expanding the show to even more buildings.

Avenue of the Stars

Iconic buildings on both sides of the harbor, with a myriad of searchlights, lasers, LED screens and lighting, work in symphony and unite to form a harmonious canvas for a sensational multimedia extravaganza for the enjoyment of millions of tourists.  Placed together, this nightly spectacle transformed the Hong Kong skyline into an outdoor audiovisual feast  for the senses.

Victoria Harbor at night

SoL’s source of inspiration is the patterned symmetry of Hong Kong’s skyline, modern metropolitan design, forested mountain terrain and expanse of the harbor, offering a truly all-encompassing visual and sound scape of the its soul. Each participating building is joined into a harmonious and complete canvas by a symphonic approach, working effortlessly together to the beat in unison.

Victoria Harbor at night

The show comprises five major themes (“Awakenings,” “Energy,” “Heritage,” “Partnership” and “Celebration”), taking spectators on a unique journey celebrating the energy, spirit and diversity of Hong Kong.  “Awakening,” symbolizing the genesis and powerful growth of Hong Kong, begins with flashes of laser lights that give life to a nucleus of light-energy which gradually illuminates participating buildings using an array of dancing lights and rainbow color.

Star Ferry

“Energy,” signifying the vibrant energy of Hong Kong, is represented by the display of rising color patterns and the sweeping of the lasers and searchlights energetically across the night sky.  “Heritage,” symbolizing Hong Kong’s colorful heritage and rich cultural traditions, displays traditional lucky red and gold colors across buildings on both sides of the Harbor, complemented by the introduction of music using Chinese musical instruments.

Aqua Luna

“Partnership,” representing an illuminated connection with the opposite side, features a display, scanning across the Harbor, of sweeping searchlights and laser beams reaching out to symbolically connect the two sides of the Harbor into one greater and unified partnership. The exciting “Celebration,” signifying the celebration of the close partnership between the two sides of the Harbor and representing an even brighter future for Hong Kong, brings out a powerful rhythmic display of swirling, kaleidoscopic patterns of lights and beams dancing lively across the Harbor.

The best vantage points at the harbor front areas, where the Show’s music (to tune in to the music, download the show’s mobile app) and narration are broadcast live, are “Avenue of Stars” (on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront near Hong Kong Cultural Center), and on the waterfront promenade outside the Golden Bauhinia Square in Wan Chai.  Sightseeing ferries (i.e. Star Ferry, also check out  harbour cruises), running across the Victoria Harbor, are also good vantage points for watching the show.

Check out “Avenue of the Stars“

There are 47 participating buildings, on both sides of glamorous  Victoria Harbor, with different types of lighting effects included in the show, such as laser, searchlights, LED lights, simple lighting and projection lighting.

The 20 buildings (^ indicates fireworks are included on special days), from east to west, included in Hong Kong Island North Shore (including Wan Chai, Admiralty and Central) are:

The 23 buildings (^ indicates fireworks are included on special days) included in the Kowloon Peninsula are:

  • Star House (from December 23, 2005) – projection lighting
  • Hong Kong Cultural Centre^ (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights, projection lighting
  • One Peking^ (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights
  • Hong Kong Museum of Art^ (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights, projection lighting
  • The Peninsula Hong Kong (from December 23, 2005) – simple lighting
  • Avenue of Stars (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights, LED lights
  • Hotel Panorama^ (from December 23, 2005) – projection lighting
  • New World Centre^ (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights (under redevelopment)
  • Tsim Sha Tsui Centre (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights
  • Empire Centre^ (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights
  • InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong (from December 23, 2005) – simple lighting
  • Hong Kong Coliseum (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights, projection lighting
  • The Gateway (with Gateway Tower 5 building combined) – Harbour City (from May 1,  2007) – LED lights, searchlights
  • Ocean Terminal – Harbour City (from June 26, 2007)- projection lighting
  • Langham Place (from June 26, 2007) – LED lights, searchlights
  • 26 Nathan Road^ (from May 1, 2007) – LED lights
  • K11 (from June 26, 2007)- laser
  • Harbourview Horizon All-Suite Hotel (from June 26, 2007)- LED lights
  • Harbourfront Horizon All-Suite Hotel (from June 26, 2007)- LED lights
  • EMax (from June 26, 2007) – searchlights
  • Megabox (from October 1, 2007) – LED lights, searchlights
  • International Commerce Centre (from May 1, 2012) – LED lights, laser
  • Kai Tak Cruise Terminal (from late 2014) – searchlights

The 4 buildings added in Hong Kong Island include:

  • AIA Central(from December 23, 2005) – LED lights
  • Bank of America Tower (from May 1, 2007) – LED lights
  • Standard Chartered Bank Building (from May 1, 2007) – LED lights
  • CCB Tower (from 2014) – LED lights, laser

Symphony of Lights: Buildings both on Hong Kong Island and in Kowloon.  8pm nightly. Tel:+852 2508 1234.  Website: www.tourism.gov.hk. Admission is free. No admission ticket is required.

The show may be suspended during days of mourning, the night of Earth Hour and in emergencies without prior notice. The narration is in English nn Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; in Mandarin on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and Cantonese on Sundays. Special pyrotechnic fireworks, added (since New Year’s Eve of 2007) to the show on the rooftop of participating buildings on both sides of the harbor or on stages off at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, are used during Chinese New Year, Christmas or on special events. When, on any given day, the Hong Kong Observatory issues Tropical Cyclone Warning Signal No.3 or above or a Red or Black Rainstorm Warning Signal at or after 3 pm, the show is suspended for that evening, even if the warning is subsequently rescinded prior to the 8 pm start time.

The mobile application of “A Symphony of Lights” can be downloaded from the following websites:

Spectators can also tune into the music of “A Symphony of Lights” through the dedicated mobile application. 

How to Get to Vantage Points:

  • Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade outside the Hong Kong Cultural Centre – MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui Station, Exit L6. Follow the signs and walk for around five minutes.
  • Golden Bauhinia Square – MTR Wan Chai Station, Exit A5. Follow the signs, take the skybridge to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, and head for the Golden Bauhinia Square.

Baltimore’s Inner Harbor (Maryland, USA)

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Inner Harbor

The Inner Harbor District, a historic seaport, tourist attraction and landmark of the city, is located within walking distance of Camden Yards and M&T Bank Stadium, at the mouth of Jones Falls, creating the wide and short northwest branch of the Patapsco River.

The name “Inner Harbor” includes any water west of a line drawn between the foot of President Street and the American Visionary Art Museum plus the surrounding area within the approximate street boundaries of President Street to the east, Lombard Street to the north, Greene Street to the west, and Key Highway on the south.

The author (lower right corner) walking along the waterfront

The Inner Harbor, with its historically shallow water (prior to manipulation through dredging), was not conducive to large ships or heavy industry and, in the 1950s, suffered from the economic decline with the arrival of container ships after World War II as well as restructuring common to many industrial cities in the United States, ending both its freight and passenger use.

Jandy crossing a pedestrian bridge

To reverse the city’s decline and reconnect Baltimore with its waterfront, the Inner Harbor was gradually transformed with award-winning parks and plazas surrounded by office buildings, hotels and leisure attractions, starting with the adoption of the 13 hectare (33-acre) Charles Center project.

Children frolicking at a fountain

Between 1958 and 1965, Baltimore renewed this center of its business district with office buildings, hotels and retail shops. In 1963, the redevelopment program was expanded to include 97 hectares (240 acres) surrounding the Inner Harbor with corporate headquarters and hotels being built around the shoreline, with a public park and promenade added for leisure activity and community gatherings.

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.

Following the U.S. Bicentennial, other tourist attractions were developed such as the National Aquarium, the Maryland Science Center and the Harbor Place Festival Marketplace (opened on July 4, 1980 and operated by The Rouse Company). The nearby Baltimore Convention Center and Hyatt Regency Baltimore Hotel added to the services, resulting in increased population density and attracting a huge number of tourists.

In recent years, Inner Harbor East, the area along the waterfront to the east of the Inner Harbor (in the direction of Fells Point and Little Italy), has been developed with mixed-use developments incorporating office space, condominiums, street-level retail space, restaurants and hotels.

In the 1970s and 1980s, with the success of the renewal of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, the city became a worldwide tourist destination and a model of urban renaissance, planning and development in cities around the world, influencing more than 100 other cities and winning more than 40 national or international awards.  In 1984, the American Institute of Architects cited it as “one of the supreme achievements of large-scale urban design and development in U.S. history. In 2009, the Urban Land Institute described it as “the model for post-industrial waterfront redevelopment around the world.”

Federal Hill Park

Federal Hill Park (300 Warren Ave.), a former lookout during the War of 1812 and the Civil War located on the south side of the Inner Harbor, allows visitors to take in ​a dramatic view of Baltimore’s cityscape from the top of the hill.

National Aquarium in Baltimore

The National Aquarium in Baltimore (501 E. Pratt St., Pier 3 and Pier 4, Inner Harbor) has a collection of more than 16,500 specimens representing 660 species, with exhibits including a multi-storey Atlantic coral reef, an open ocean shark tank, a 4-D immersion theater, a tropical rain forest, a glass pavilion with Australian wildlife, and a mammal pavilion that holds Atlantic bottlenose dolphins.

Check out “National Aquarium in Baltimore“

Sloop-of-War USS Constellation

The Historic Ships in Baltimore (Piers 1, 3, and 5) features four historic ships permanently docked in the harbor that visitors can climb aboard and experience – the USS Constellation (first launched in 1854, it is the only Civil War-era ship still afloat), USCGC Taney (last fighting ship still afloat that survived the attack on Pearl Harbor), the USS Torsk (a Tench-class submarine, it is the last ship to sink an enemy vessel in World War II) and the Lightship Chesapeake (a U.S. Coast Guard lightship from the 1930s) plus the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse.

Check out “The Historic Ships of Baltimore,” “USS Constellation Museum”  and “USCGC Taney“

Harborplace and the Gallery

Harborplace and the Gallery (Light and Pratt Sts.) are two pavilions with a mix of local and national restaurants and stores, plus Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium (has 500 of Ripley’s trademark “oddities” in seven different galleries, plus a mirror maze and a 4-D movie theater)

Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Odditorium

Maryland Science Center (601 Light St.) has 3 levels of exhibits, a planetarium, and an IMAX theater plus a special exhibit on blue crabs.

Maryland Science Center

Top of the World (401 E. Pratt St.) an observation deck on the 27th floor of the Baltimore World Trade Center, offers sweeping a 360-degree birds-eye views of the city. On the pedestrian promenade outside the building is a memorial to the victims of the September 11, 2001, attacks.

Baltimore World Trade Center

Port Discovery Children’s Museum (35 Market Place), on the site of the historic Baltimore Fish Market, is a children’s museum with a three-story jungle gym specifically designed for kids ages 2-10.

Holocaust Memorial

American Visionary Art Museum (800 Key Highway), a mosaic-clad museum, has a  collection of offbeat, innovative art produced by self-taught individuals, plus free outdoor movies and the Kinetic Sculpture Race.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture

The Reginald F. Lewis Museum of African-American History and Culture (830 E. Pratt St.), the largest of its kind on the East Coast, is dedicated to preserving the stories of the Maryland African American community, past and present.

Baltimore Civil War Museum

Baltimore Museum of Industry (1415 Key Highway), located in an old cannery, holds exhibits on various types of manufacturing and industry from the early 20th century. one of its star attractions is the Baltimore, the oldest surviving steam tugboat and a National Historic Landmark.

Baltimore Visitors Center

The Baltimore Visitor Center (401 Light St.), just north of the Maryland Science Center, has touch-screen kiosks that tell visitors where to go, and staff can help clue you into events happening in the city. It also has public restrooms inside.

Philips Seafood

Power Plant Live! (601 E Pratt St.), the former Pratt Street Power Plant  located 2 blocks north of the Inner Harbor, is an entertainment complex that comes alive at night with bars,  clubs, restaurants and music venues that includes Phillips Seafood, Rams Head Live!,  Hard Rock Cafe (opened July 4, 1997) plus Barnes & Noble and Maryland Art Place (a contemporary art gallery for Maryland artists).

Hard Rock Cafe

Other places to visit here include the Lloyd Street Synagogue (the third-oldest synagogue in the United States, now the Jewish Museum of Maryland), Civil War Museum (President Street Station), Sports Legends Museum at Camden Yards, Dr. Samuel D. Harris Museum of Dentistry (University of Maryland), Babe Ruth birthplace and museum, Oriole Park at Camden Yards (home of the Baltimore Orioles), Camden Yards Sports Complex, Columbus Center (home of the University of Maryland Biotechnology Institute), Bnai Israel (a Moorish Revival synagogue now open as a museum), Holocaust Memorial  (E Lombard and S Gay St.), Lockwood Place, Geppi’s Entertainment Museum (a privately owned pop culture museum at Camden Station opened last September 2006), M&T Bank Stadium (home of the Baltimore Ravens), Royal Farms Arena and the Pier Six Pavilion (a music venue at 731 Eastern Ave.)

Pier Six Pavilion

Blue and white water taxis (US&6-12), from 17 locations, connect passengers from the Inner Harbor to Fells Point, Canton, and Fort McHenry.

Check out “Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine – Birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner

Water Taxi

You can explore the Inner Harbor on a traditional paddle boat (US$12 per half-hour rental) or the colorful Chesapeake Bay ‘Chessie’ Monster (US version of Scotland’s ‘Nessie,’ US$20 per half-hour rental),  both classic childhood favorites. Both boats hold up to four occupants. If you don’t feel like paddling, there’s the electric boat (half-hour rental – US$10 for one person or US$15 for two).

Cheska, Jandy, Grace and Kyle in a Chessie

Visitors can also explore the harbor via the red and purple-bottomed Cruises on the Bay by Watermark (US$6-17) and the larger yacht Spirit of Baltimore (US$42 and up); the bright yellow speedboats of Seadog Cruises (US$20 range) and the wood-paneled pirate ship The Fearless by Urban Pirates (US$20-25).

Spirit of Baltimore

Cruise ships also offer narrated, 45-min. tours of the Inner Harbor where you’ll learn about the city’s maritime and industrial history as well as the resurgence of the waterfront, Federal Hill, and Fells Point.  You can also avail of 60-min. tours focusing on Fort McHenry, 90-min. cocktail cruises and spectacular 60-min. “city lights” tours. 

Kampong Ayer (Brunei)

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Kampong Ayer - The Water Village

Kampong Ayer – The Water Village

This Water Village (Malay: Kampung Air), along the banks of the Sungai Brunei (Brunei River), is an area situated over Brunei Bay that is home to a sizable population of 39,000, representing roughly 10% of the nation’s total population.  The district, a culturally important part of Brunei that preserves the nation’s river dwelling origins, has a unique architectural heritage of wooden homes with ornate interiors.

The mainland jetty

The mainland jetty

Built entirely of stilt houses and wooden walkways, it is the world’s largest water village and the most famous water settlement of Southeast Asia.  One of the most important centers of trade in Borneo, people have lived in Kampong Ayer for over 1,300 years. When the fleet of Ferdinand Magellan visited in 1521, Venetian scholar Antonio Pigafetta dubbed it the “Venice of the East.” Kampong Ayer has been the capital of the Brunei Sultanate for hundreds of years.

The modern-looking, 20-pax bot penambang (covered water taxis)

Boarding our modern-looking, 20-pax bot penambang (covered water taxi)

The author (right) with members of BEAT

The author (right) with members of BEAT (led by president Mr. York Virtucio at left) on board our water taxi

The establishment of the land town, acting as a population magnet, did not lead to its depopulation and arrival of new residents and natural increase maintained the population balance. Most of Kampong Ayer had survived heavy World War II bombardment. Around 2013-2014, smart new, two story stilt houses made of concrete were built in the center of the Kampong Ayer and given to the people in need of a new house but not wishing to live on land. Even today, many Bruneians still prefer the lifestyle of the water village to residency on dry land.

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View of the mainland

The villages on the river’s north bank (the same side as the city center) used to cover a much larger area, but many of the stilt houses have been razed to spruce up the waterfront area around the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

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Entering the narrow waterway

We were to have a personal experience of this heritage as we took one of the many 20-pax bot penambang (modern-looking, covered water taxis) that provide rapid transit daily between the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah, in the center of town, and the water village itself. Our private water taxis resembled a long wooden speedboat. Before leaving the jetty, we all wore life jackets.

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A foot bridge

The Water Village is really made up of a cluster of 42 small, contiguous and relatively cramped stilt villages (kampongs) linked together by more than 29,140 m. of foot-bridges.

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This self-contained, close-knit community consists of over 4,200 structures, including homes, mosques, restaurants, shops, schools and a hospital, all interconnected by maze of 36 kms. of boardwalks. All of the six water village mukims (districts) are collectively known as the water village (Kampong Ayer) but, for administrative purposes, are identified as separate mukims.

mosque

One of two mosques

fire-department

The marine fire brigade

From a distance the water village looked like a slum but it actually enjoys modern amenities. The government, through the District Office, has provided it with numerous facilities including foot-bridges, concrete jetties, piped water, plumbing, electricity, telephones, schools, two mosques, clinics, seafood restaurants, a police station, a museum and a marine fire station.

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A colorfully painted house on stilts

Many of the houses also have air conditioning, satellite television and internet access. Some of the residents even keep potted plants, in container gardens, and raise chickens. They even say that if you look at the main roads on the banks opposite the village, you’ll see luxury cars lined up on the shoulder of the road.  Many of these cars belong to water-village residents.

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A village jetty

The wooden, sun-bleached houses, painted with shades of green, blue, pink and yellow, have not been done-up for tourists. From afar, we could see the 30 km. long Temburong Bridge, which is still under construction (it is expected to be completed in 2019), and the golden roof of the largest residential place in the world, the Sultan’s Istana Nurul Iman.  We made our first and only stopover at a village jetty.  Getting off the boat was an adventure on its own as we had to climb some worn-out concrete steps.

A second mosque

A second mosque

The unfinished Temburong Bridge

The unfinished Temburong Bridge

Upon reaching the top of the jetty, we walked along a treacherous, banister-less boardwalk, some with loose or missing planks, again another adventure by itself. Walking along these planked walkways (a bit of balance is required) while observing the various homes is probably what draws visitors here. However, while the houses were far from squalid, we noticed rubbish floating or carpeting the inter-tidal mud at low tide. For an apparently affluent country like Brunei which could afford to tidy it up, it was disgusting and disappointing.

Climbing the stairs up the jetty

Climbing the stairs up the jetty

We finally arrived at a local concrete home which was way too nice to be anything close to an authentic village house. The entry hall even had a chandelier. Just like in a mosque, we had to remove our shoes before entering.  Inside, there were lots of tourists like us. Obviously, it’s part of the tourist trail.  There, a good refreshment was served – 3 kinds of colorful kuih bingka, a local traditional sweet cake, plus tea. Our snack here capped our Water Village tour and we again made our back to our boat for the trip back to the mainland.

Traversing the wooden boardwalk

Traversing the wooden boardwalk

Removing our shoes prior to entering

Removing our shoes prior to entering

Our tour of the nondescript Kampong Ayer wasn’t really a visit into the past. Rather, it was just a peek into the everyday lives of some very friendly Bruneians while seeing some of the changes that has taken place over the last thousand years or so. Interesting but not amazing. Venice it isn’t by a mile.

Three different kinds of kuih bingka

Three different kinds of kuih bingka

Kampong Ayer: Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei.  Kampong Ayer is accessible by boat or land bridges. To get across the river, just stand somewhere where a water taxi can dock and flag one down (the fare is B$1, one way). To get to these villages from the Yayasan Complex, itself built on the site of a one-time water village, follow the plank walks, behind the Hua Ho Department Store, that lead west, parallel to the river.