Category Archives: Philippines, Republic of the

A Historical Tour of Clark (Pampanga)

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After watching the early morning flight of Clark’s famous hot air balloons, Jandy and I returned to our Toyota Revo and made our way out of Clark as we still wanted to explore nearby Angeles City.  Along the way we made brief stopovers at some of Clark’s historical sights.  Our first stopover was at the old parade grounds.

Fort Stotsenberg Gate Posts

The Fort Stotsenberg Gate Posts once stood at the Dau Gate, the first gateway to Fort Stotsenberg , from the early 1900s until the Japanese Occupation in 1942 when they were removed and buried as landfill.  Unearthed intact in 1965,  these posts were moved to the American Legion Post (near the Personnel Office and not far from the Clark Gym) and finally relocated to the south side of the entrance of the parade grounds in 1984.

Clark Museum

Near the old parade grounds, on the original site of the 217-bed base hospital (dating to September 1903) and the Base Commander’s office, is the Clark Museum, also called the Kapampangan Museum.

 

Check out “Clark Museum“

Death March Marker

At the entrance of the Clark Veterans Cemetery, along the main entrance road, just past the main gate, is the Death March Marker.  This memorial marker was erected by the Manila BPO Elks lodge in honor of fellow Elks, American and Filipino POWs, who passed this spot during the infamous Bataan Death March in 1942.

Clark Veterans Cemetery

Just inside the Main Gate, along the Mitchell Highway, is the 20.365-acre, 12,000 plot Calrk Veterans Cemetery, formed between 1947 and 1950 to house 7,559 military and civilian remains.  There are headstones/markers and remains from at least 4 other U.S. military cemeteries (Fort Stotsenberg 1 and 2, Fort McKinley and Sangley Point Naval Cemetery).  These include 2,030 fallen American soldiers, including at least 638 Philippine Scouts (PS) from the pre-World War II era.  Some, but not all, were veterans of the Spanish-American war and the Philippine-American War.

Graves of the unknown dead

Others are graves of U.S. veterans from the U.S. Army, U.S. Navy, U.S. Marine Corps, U.S. Coast Guard and U.S. Air Force who died after World War II (all World War II dead were moved to the American Cemetery in Manila) and during the Korean and Vietnam War.  The largest category interred is civilian, mostly U.S. and Filipino, all of whom worked for the U.S. government, and their dependents.  In addition, nationals from France, Spain, Canada, Japan, China, Vietnam and India are also buried there.  A little over 1,600 remains are still unidentified.  The cemetery is also the only place in the former U.S. 13th Air Force base where the U.S. flag flutters alongside the Philippine flag.

Salakot Arch

Finally, at the main gate entrance to the Clark Freeport Zone, at Bayanihan Park, is the Salakot Arch, a cavernous welcome landmark fashioned after a farmer’s hat built in 1979.  It stands as a sign of Philippine-American friendship over the years and was originally built to symbolize the historical March 14, 1947 signing of the RP-US Military Bases Agreement.  Beyond the arch is Angeles City.

The City of "Angels" (Angeles City, Pampanga)

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Angeles City

After the culmination of Clark’s Hot Air Balloon Festival, Jandy and I drove on to Angeles City for a walking tour of the City of Angels.  Many know Angeles City only as a rest and recreation area frequently visited by the U.S. servicemen from nearby Clark Air Base.  Even with the base’s closure, Angeles is still home to a large colony of expatriates as many Americans chose to permanently settle in city, particularly in the Balibago District.  They were just about everywhere I looked in the city.  However,  not many people know that, on March 17, 1899, Angeles was briefly made the capital of the First Philippine Republic by Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo.  In fact, the first and only anniversary of the Declaration of Philippine Independence (June 12, 1899) was celebrated here.  Upon its capture by the Americans on November 5, it was made the headquarters of Maj.-Gen. Arthur MacArthur (father of Douglas).  Angeles, once just a jungle clearing and a northernmost barrio of San Fernando called Kuliat (after an indigenous vine that grew abundantly in the area), soon grew rapidly around the former Clark Air Base and was made into a chartered city on June 22, 1963 by virtue of Republic Act No. 3700.

Holy Rosary Cathedral

Many relics of the city’s Spanish and American era past still exist, all within the Sto. Rosario Historic District and all within walking distance from each other. My walking tour started at the Holy Rosary Cathedral (where I parked my car), along Sto. Entierro corner Sto. Rosario St.

Check out Cathedral of the Holy Rosary

The Holy Family Bldg., the former convent, was used by the U.S. Army from August 1899 to December 1900 as a military hospital and by the Japanese Army as a troop barracks, officers’ quarters and arsenal in early 1942.

Angeles Physical Therapy Rehabilitation Center

Adjacent to the cathedral is the 2-storey Museo Ning Angeles, the former City Hall built in 1922.    This museum, opened on December 8, 1999, now showcases Kapampangan lifestyle and culture.

Check out Museo Ning Angeles

The Angeles Physical Therapy Rehabilitation Center, now a center for polio and stroke patients, was first built in 1899 as the deposito for religious statues and carriages used in religious processions.   From 1899 to 1901, it was utilized by the U.S. Army as a jail  for recalcitrant U.S. troops and, from 1946 to 1947, as headquarters of U.S. Army 11th Film Exchange.  From February 6, 1967 to 1986, it was  the City Post Office.

Bale Matua

The oldest building in the city is Bale Matua, also known as the Founder’s House.  It was built in 1824 by Don Angel Pantaleon de Miranda, the former gobernadorcillo of San Fernando, and his wife Doña Rosalia de Jesus.  Together, they founded Angeles in 1796.  On December 8, 1829, the barrio was separated from San Fernando and was renamed Angeles in honor of Don Angel and the town’s patron saints, the Holy Guardian Angels (Los Santos Angeles de los Custodios).  To build Bale Matua, Angel used materials salvaged from their older house built around 1811. The house was later inherited by their only daughter, Doña Juana de Miranda de Henson.  It has high stone walls and an ornate gate and was declared as a Historical Site by the National Historical Institute.

Nepomuceno Ancestral House

The Nepomuceno Ancestral House, along Sto. Rosario St., was the home of Don Ciriaco de Miranda, the first gobernadorcillo of Angeles. Built in 1840, it was inherited in 1868 by Don Ciriaco’s niece, Doña Agustina Henson de Nepomuceno.  A restored grain storehouse (kamalig), along Sto. Rosario St., between these two old houses, was also built in 1840 by Don Ciriaco. In 1980, it was restored by Armando L. Nepomuceno and is now home to Armando’s Pizza and the Camalig Restaurant.   Bale Herencia, at the corner of Lakandula and Sto. Rosario Sts., was built in 1860 by carpenters from Vigan (Ilocos Sur). Said to have been built for the mistress of a parish priest, the current owners now use it as a banquet hall.

Bale Herencia

Clark Museum (Clark Special Economic Zone, Pampanga)

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Clark Museum

Located near the old parade grounds, on the original site of the 217-bed base hospital (dating to September 1903), headquarters of the 3rd Combat Group in 1979 and the 3CSG Headquarters, this museum, also called the Kapampangan Museum, was inaugurated on July 5, 1997.

Military Uniforms

Aeta Hunting Equipment

The museum showcases Clark’s rich history and transformation, from the time it was used as a U.S. military base (the largest outside mainland USA) in 1902 up to its dramatic development as a Special Economic Zone. It is also a tribute to the resilient Filipinos who strive to reshape their future despite ravages of war and the wrath of nature

Biography of Maj. Harold M. Clark

Pres. Manuel A. Roxas Exhibit

The museum is divided into different sections – “Aetas,” “US Early Years,” “Aviation Era,” “World War II,” “Reconstruction,” “US-Philippines Turnover,” “Alumni of Wurthsmith and Wagner High School,” “People Power Revolution,” “Mt. Pinatubo Eruption,” “Former Base Employees,” “The Transformation,” and the “Jack and Ariella Art Collection.”

Copy of Instrument of Surrender signed at USS Missouri

Model aircraft

A large mural depicting the vision of Clark Development Corporation (CDC) and five scenic dioramas portraying the transformation of Clark into its present state are among the exhibits at the museum. A special section, featuring vivid photographs, is dedicated to the Thomasites, the first American teachers in the Philippines. 

Terrain Model of Mt. Pinatubo

Topographical Model of Clark Field

Also on display are photos, models of U.S. aircraft, Philippine currency during the Japanese Occupation, weapons and a Mount Pinatubo exhibit.  In front of the museum is a Spanish-era cannon (cast in Peru in 1778, it made its way to the Philippines on board the Spanish warship Seville) and a Japanese World War II anti-aircraft gun. Spanish-era cannon..

The American Contribution to Philippine Education

Spanish-era cannon

Clark Museum: Building 2425, Tourism Promotions Office, Clark Development Corporation, E. Quirino St., Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga.  Tel: (045) 599-2832, (045) 599-3221 and (045) 599-6235. Open Monday-Fridays, 8 AM to 5 PM.  Weekends by special arrangement. Admission: PhP30 per person.  Tour guide, teachers and children below 3 years of age are free of charge.

How to Get There: The Clark Special Economic Zone is located 80 kms. north of Manila.

Cathedral of the Holy Rosary (Angeles City, Pampanga)

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Cathedral of the Holy Rosary

The Cathedral of the Holy Rosary was first built of light materials (nipa) and of wood in 1855 by Fr. Guillermo Masnou.  The present stone and brick edifice was started in 1860 by Fr. Ramon Sarrionandia through the forced labor system (Pols y Servicios), continued by Fr. Juan Merino in 1880 and completed by Fr. Pedro Ibeas in 1891.

Historical plaque

It was restored by Fr. Rufino Santos from 1893 to 1897.  The backyard of the church was an execution ground for Filipino rebels from1896 to 1898.  Later, it was used by the U.S. Army as a military hospital from August 1899 to December 1900.

The cathedral’s Renaissance-style facade

The cathedral, measuring 70 m. long, 20 m. wide, and 12 m. high, has a beautiful transept and a Renaissance style of Corinthian pilasters and recessed arch and segmented windows topped by triangular canopies.

One of two bell towers

There is a projecting portico with elliptical arches at the main entrance.  Spandrel and pier dados are ornamented with relief carvings.  Flanking the facade are twin bell towers moving upward in a slow sweep and in uneven levels.  The window casements have Renaissance-influenced latticework.

The cathedral’s interior

The main altar and retablo

Cathedral of the Holy Rosary: Sto. Entierro cor. Sto. Rosario St., Angeles City, Pampanga. Feast of the Holy Rosary: Second Sunday of October.

How to Get There: Angeles City is located 82.8 kms. (a 2-hour drive) from Manila and 13 kms. (a 30-min. drive) west of the City of San Fernando.

Clark’s Hot Air Balloon Festival (Pampanga)

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Hot air balloons being inflated …..

Normally, Valentine’s Day is a day reserved just for lovers.  At the Clark Special Economic Zone (CSEZ) in Pampanga, it is also this, plus more, as the Philippine International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta (PIHABF), the most colorful event of the year (held last February 12 to 15), also fell on the day of the hearts. Dubbed as the “Weekend of Everything that Flies,” it is the Philippines largest aviation sports event. Until lately, this was also included in my “Must Attend” list of festivals or events.  I was again about to miss out on this until an invitation to cover the event, from Ms. Grace Aquino, Marketing Communication Manager of the Fuego Hotel-managed Hotel Vida, came along, an offer too good to refuse.  

Hotel Vida Clark
I brought along my son Jandy and left on the morning of the day of hearts itself, arriving at the hotel by 11 AM.  On hand to welcome us was Grace and Korean hotel owner Mr. Daesik Han.  The hotel was then fully booked, not just by Valentine couples, but also by about 35 balloonists from all over the world.  They seem to be everywhere around the hotel; waiting at the lobby, cruising the hallway, dining at Salt Coffee Shop, lounging by the swimming pool and, later at night, reminiscing about the day’s events at the hotel’s new Malt Bar.  

Choreographed kite flying

We were again assigned a lavish Junior Suite and, after a short rest, we decided to check out the event’s afternoon activities.  To enter, Grace supplied us with two PhP100 one-day passes. Now in its 14th year, the Hot Air Fiesta was first held in 1994 when then DOT Secretary Mina Gabor commissioned Korean businessman and hot air balloonist, Mr. Sung Kee Paik, and Mr. John Emery, British Airways General Manager, to initiate a major balloon event in the county in the hope of uplifting the spirits of the Kapampangan people, following the devastating eruption of Mt. Pinatubo three years ago. Since then, it has been officially recorded as one of the scheduled ballooning events in the world, competing in media exposure and attention with the World Hot Air Balloon Championship (Japan) and Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta (New Mexico, U.S.A.).

A paraglider in flight

Held at the 33,000-hectare Clark Civil Aviation Complex, this four-day ballooning and aero- sporting event, hosted by Clark Development Corp. (CDC), the Clark International Airport Corp., the Philippine Air Force, the Hot-Air Balloon Club of the Philippines and a host of private sponsors (including United Parcel Services, Cirrus and ABS-CBN, among others) drew more than 100,000 spectators, lining it up to be the greatest ever. More than 25 large multi-colored, hot-air balloons (topping the 19 balloons flown from 13 countries in 2008), manned by teams from Hungary, Germany, Switzerland, France, the United States, the United Kingdom, Japan, New Zealand, Thailand, the Netherlands and Malaysia, colored the skies including at least seven especially shaped balloons (one had the likeness of the cartoon character Tigger).  Caltex, Yellow Cab and Kellogg’s also sponsored balloons.

Aermacchi S-211 Jet Trainer

Around the large hangar, we had a field day taking shots of the balloon inflation in the afternoon session (up to the Night Glow) and, the next day, at 6:30 in the morning where they actually lifted off. Balloon inflation is very much dependent on wind conditions with calm winds of less than 10 mph and the clouds at least 2,000 feet above the ground guaranteeing great flights.  Apart from the hot-air balloon competition, the event also featured diverse flying activities such as ultra-light aircraft formation flying, Thai, Malaysian and Filipino paragliding exhibition, AFP flag jump; and a hair-raising, dangerous and thoroughly exciting and world-class stunt flying demonstration performed by the team of Captain Meynard Halili (owner of a stunt pilot school) and Bill Wright.

F-5 Freedom Fighter

There were also light plane rally and balloon bursting competition; PHILSCA and Ateneo de Manila model rocketry demonstration; search and rescue flying exhibitions; helicopter exhibitions and fly-by; choreographed kite-flying exhibition (courtesy of the Kite Association of the Philippines); skydiving exhibition (AFP, PNP, Thai and Philippine Team); remote control aircraft and kite flying demo; flour bomb drop (Angeles City Flying Club and Land Rover); PAF mass parachute jump (from a C-130 aircraft); and swarm flights of elite aircraft such as Citation Mustang, a single-pilot operated light jet (built by Cessna Aircraft Co.) and Cirrus SR22, a single-engine, four-seat aircraft designed with a fixed landing gear. 

Balloons in flight

In addition, small private planes from Japan, Thailand, Singapore and Indonesia all flew in, participating in an air rally which has become a regular component of the festivities. In short, just about everything that flies in the skies in and about Clark Freeport. On-site ground activities included a mini-trade fair, food plaza, daily live concerts (including a Rivermaya concert which we watched), wall-climbing and other special events. Philippines Army personnel also allowed visitors to hold and pose with automatic weapons (without ammo of course).

The Philippine Air Force supplied an Italian-made Aermacchi S-211 jet trainer and a mothballed Northrop F-5A Freedom Fighter, allowing spectators to pose inside the cockpits complete with flight helmets. As the waiting line was long, Jandy and I satisfied ourselves by just sitting on the F-5 airframe with two PAF personnel. Also on display was a Robinson, the world’s smallest helicopter.  Other spectaculars prepared for tourists included a photo exhibit, giant lanterns from Pampanga, Higantes from Angono, mini-trade fair, car show and exhibits, and fireworks display. Visitors were also allowed to fly their personal kites on the grounds. The food plaza area served good home-cooked Filipino culinary delights as well as McDonalds and Jollibee fare.  

Hike to Tappiya Falls (Banaue, Ifugao)

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Tappiya Falls

Come morning it was decision time for the group.  There were two options left for us before leaving Batad in the afternoon.  For the still adventurous, me included, there was the 30-min. (according to the locals) hike to Tappiya Falls, something I haven’t done during my first visit (which was just a day tour way back April 1998).  The other was an easier hike down to Batad Village proper to photograph village life.  I chose the former but half opted for the latter. Joining me to the falls were AACC members Jun, Steve and Rosevie plus Pearl, Phoebe, Ivy, Arvic and our local guide Mang Vicente.

Batad Village

After a hearty but very early breakfast, we all left Simon Inn by 7 AM, taking the same route to the Central Viewpoint.  Beyond the rice terraces, it was a slow, lung busting and steep (with slopes reaching 45 degrees) hike.  A meandering river soon came into view, indicating how near we were to our destination. Across this river and upstream along the far bank was the beautiful and impressive, 25-m. high waterfall with its enormous swimming natural pool.  We were in luck as running across the falls was a rainbow, making for another beautiful and rare photo op. While the others went bathing, Jun, Vi, Steve and yours truly started clicking.

Apo Ben

After 30 mins.of this bather’s and photographer’s heaven, it was time to go as we had another long hard climb ahead.  A rest stop at the Central Viewpoint provided an opportunity to pose (for a fee) with Apo Ben, an Igorot dressed up in full tribal attire (complete with g-string, native spear and feathered headdress).  We arrived at Simon Inn by 11 AM in time for a well-deserved lunch we had no more time for a power nap as we had to pack our stuff and leave. Bebet and Bryan had left by then to allow themselves longer rest stops.  We left the inn with our porters by 1 PM.  The hard part was the hike, now uphill, to the Saddle but from here it was downhill all the way to our pick up point, arriving by 4:30 PM.  The debris from the landslide had been cleared by then.

Dinner at Hillside Inn

Our AUV brought us to Banaue town proper in time for an early pansit dinner at Hillside Inn.  We left Banaue by 6 PM on board a similar airconditioned GV Florida bus and arrived in Manila by 4:30 AM the next day. Again, this rewarding experience helped me gain a healthier respect for the hardworking Ifugao’s ingenuity, the wonders of God’s creation and, in spite of the long hikes, an additional 3 pounds (thanks to the pizza and nutritious highland rice!)

Simon Viewpoint Inn and Restaurant (Banaue, Ifugao)

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We reached our destination and home for the night, Simon Viewpoint Inn and Restaurant, by 3 PM. At its concrete, railing-less view deck was the breathtaking amphitheater vista of the Batad Rice Terraces.  Our AACC photographer friends soon set up their tripods and their cameras started clicking away.

Simon Viewpoint Inn and Restaurant

The inn also had a pair of seemingly authentic rectangular and nailless one-room bale huts at the back which I enjoyed exploring. Used for cooking and sleeping, the huts are built on four sturdy amugawan tree trunk posts, 2-3 m. from the ground, to keep the vermin out.  My access to the hut was through a steep, removable bamboo or wooden ladder.  The hut also has outward slanting waist or chest-high walls, two doors, a wooden plank floor and no windows.  The steep, pyramidal, reed and grass-thatched roof conceals the walls.

A pair of Ifugao huts at the back of the inn

After a late lunch and a short power nap to recharge, I joined the others as they left to explore the Batad Rice Terraces up to the Central Viewpoint.  However, to get there, I had to conquer my acrophobia (fear of heights) as I had to traverse a lot of very narrow and high pilapil (terrace walls) along the terrace’s edges to get there.  Once back in Simon’s Inn, we again rested our tired bodies, some having their aching muscles and joints massaged by a local masseuse.  That night, it was all camaraderie, good food (pizza, pita bread, highland rice, veggies, fries, etc.), wine (native rice wine called tappuy) and song (provided by the guitar-playing and crooning Jules).  Lights out at the inn was 10 PM and gladly so as we were all dead tired.  Sleep came easy to the weary.

Food at Simon’s Inn

The Trail to Batad Rice Terraces (Banaue, Ifugao)

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The Batad Rice Terraces

This stupendous amphitheater of stone and earth terraces was sculpted out of twin coalescing spurs of a steep, wooded mountain from riverbed to summit. Considered as the “Eighth Wonder of the World” by many, belo it is the relatively unspoiled Batad Village.

These masterpieces of agricultural engineering are said to be the highest of its kind in the world and the largest single agricultural project in the history of mankind.  The terraces are estimated to be more than 100-sq. miles in area, reaching heights of 1,500 m. and its length, if put end to end, would extend 48,280.40 kms., encircling half the globe or extending 10 times the length of the Great Wall of China.

Our hired AUV was soon on our way, along the often dusty but now muddy Mayoyao Rd.,  to the Km. 12 Junction (called the “Saddle”), take-off point for the  hike to Batad Rice Terraces.  However, we only made it halfway as a fresh landslide, brought about by heavy rain the night before, blocked our way, adding another 6 kms. to our already arduous 4-km. hike.  Luckily, there were local porters to carry our backpacks (at PhP200/pack, 2 packs per porter, placed front and back).  Still, this wasn’t going to be a walk in the park as our group had to hurdle, aside from the landslides, tired and aching muscles, sore feet, rough mountain trails (sometimes narrowed to footpaths where only one person at a time could pass) and deep, treacherous ravines. Even in the cold, refreshing mountain air, most were sweating profusely due to the hot sun.

At Km. 12 Junction

Would-be backpackers soon gave up their backpacks to the porters, one had a bout of gout (nice rhyme), another, a diabetic, collapsed from insulin shock and another was on the watch list (having had a quadruple bypass).  Just the same, the photo opportunities were great, with lots of rice terraces, forest-cladded mountains and rivers to shoot, plus there were about six rest stations offering relief and refreshments (as well as souvenir items) to hikers.  From the Saddle, it was an easy downhill hike most of the way.

Return to Banaue (Ifugao)

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The narrow streets of Banaue

My first trip to Banaue, Ifugao and its showpiece, the stupendous Batad Rice Terraces (the “Eighth Wonder of the World”), was way back in April of 1998 (http://firingyourimagination.blogspot.com/2011/08/ifugao-day-tour-of-batad-rice-terraces.html) with my then 11-year old son Jandy. Back then there were no celphone signals (making my celphone useless) and the camera I brought with me was an instamatic Canon Sureshot Joy using now rarely-used roll film.  Since then, I have been pining for a return. Well, wishes do come true and I have returned. Though now without Jandy (he had a cold) or my daughter Cheska (she had commitments), I was traveling with seasoned professional photographers –  Mr. Steve Albano, Mr. Jun Bagaindoc, Mr. Jules Capucion, Mr. Nonie Castillo, Ms. Mel Dimapilis, Mr. Rene Enriquez, Mr. Bebet Gaudinez, Mr. Lawrence Bryan Lee and my good friend and frequent travel companion Ms. Rosevie Sevilla; all members of the Ayala Alabang Camera Club.  Our group also included master guide Mr. Lester Susi plus sisters Pearl Giselle and Phoebe Uno, Ms. Ivy Belimac and Mr. Arvic Camua.  To put on some professional air, I brought with me my daughter’s Canon EOS 500D digital SLR which I recently bought in Singapore. However, this was mostly for show as it was set in automatic.

View of the town from People’s Lodge

We left Manila on January 26, 9:30 PM via an airconditioned GV Florida bus at its terminal along Lacson St, near Espana Ave. (near U.S.T.).  One thing nice about this bus was it had its own toilet, convenient for this long-haul  341-km./10-hour trip which including stopovers.  As soon as the bus left the terminal, we all tried to grab some shuteye.  Our trip was uneventful and our bus arrived in Banaue 7 AM the next day.  Our group was picked up by a hired AUV which brought us to People’s Lodge and Restaurant for breakfast. Nostalgically, this inn was the same place me and my son Jandy stayed in during our first visit.  While waiting for our food, we tried out its balcony.  Here, we had a panoramic view of the town, its backdrop of rice terraces and the winding Ibulao River which was traversed by a hanging steel bridge (which, in the past, I tried to cross but chickened out half way).

Ifugao woodcarving

Once done with breakfast, Mel, Rosevie and I explored the nearby handicraft stores for some souvenir shopping.  The shopping options include different kinds of traditional fabric like the woven bark cloth and dyed ikat cloth, wooden objets d’art  such as bowls, trays, oversized spoons and forks, antiques, entirely alien statues of American Indian chiefs and smiling, pot-bellied Chinese gods, and the traditional bul-ols (statues of rice gods).  Curio souvenirs include handwoven wall hangings, crocheted bedroom slippers and pfu-ong (traditional jewelry) representing good luck in hunting or prosperity of children.   Once done, we returned to our group and the AUV for our trip to the jump-off point for our hike to Batad Rice Terraces.

Rizal Shrine (Fort Santiago, Manila)

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Rizal Shrine

The Rizal Shrine, Fort Santiago’s most prominent attraction, was the highlight of our tour.  The shrine, housed in a restored (in 1953) 2-storey building formerly used as barracks for two Spanish artillery companies, remains under the supervision of the National Historical Institute (NHI).

 

National Hero Jose Rizal was imprisoned in an improvised “chapel cell” on one corner of its ground floor at the fort’s eastern side.  Here, he was held for two months prior to his execution (November 3 to December 29, 1896) when his sentence was read at 6 A.M..   He also wrote his “Mi Ultimo Adios” (“My Last Farewell”) in this cell.  As a prisoner condemned to death, he was moved into this church-like setting for spiritual contemplation.  He was never confined in a dungeon unlike captured Katipunan members.

Rizal’s Execution (Carlos Botong Francisco, 1961)

Upon entering the first room (Pagbukas ng Alaala), we were greeted by the late National Artist Carlos “Botong” V.Francisco’s commissioned mural (1961) of Rizal’s execution.   Immediately to the right is the door leading to the airconditioned Bulwagan ng Panunulat(Chamber of Texts).  Here are displayed old photos of Rizal’s parents, his sweetheart Leonor Rivera and of Rizal as a child and adult.

Triumph of Science Over Death

Reproductions of original sculptures done by Rizal, “Triumph of Science Over Death” (a torch-bearing Muse of Science standing over a skull) and “Prometheus Bound”, are also prominently displayed. On mounted steel plates are Rizal’s own opinions and analyses as well as those on Rizal done by various scholars.

Rizal’s Opthalmological Instruments

Also on display here are faithful reproductions of Rizal’s handwritten manuscripts Noli Me Tangere(published  in Berlin, 1887) and El Filibusterismo (published in Ghent, Belgium, 1891),  his ophthalmological instruments (Rizal was an ophthalmic surgeon), his shell collection, his Hongkong calling cards, his chess and damaset and  skeletons of frog (Rhacophorus rizali) and lizard (Draco rizali), both named after him.

PHC Plaque

Outside the room is the Galeriya ng Halamanan (Garden Gallery).  On its right is the Silid ng Paninilay(Contemplation Room) which is interconnected to Rizal’s cell (Ang Piitan).  The former was a pantry of food rations for Spanish troops (Cuarto de Menestra) before it was made into a receiving room for Rizal.  The latter, a narrow, dark and nearly airless room, was formerly a storage for military supplies (Cuarto de Repuesto) before being converted to Rizal’s cell.  Rizal’s untitled farewell poem was believed to have been written here. Inside is the familiar sitting wax statue of Rizal done by the late National Artist Guillermo E. Tolentino.  Both rooms are closed to the public.  Two of its doors are original.

Portrait of Rizal at Stairwell Gallery

To the left of the Garden Gallery is the Galeriya sa Hagdanan (Stairwell Gallery).  Here on display, from the foot of the stairs all the way to the top, are oil paintings depicting key moments of Rizal’s life as visualized by painters (Romeo Enriquez, E. Gonzales, Rudy Herrera, etc.) who won in a painting competition during the centenary of Rizal’s birth (June 16, 1961).

A Glass Urn With a Piece of Rizal’s Vertebra With Bullet Wound

Upon reaching the top of the stairs, we entered the Silid ng Nalalabi (Reliquary Room).  Enshrined in a glass urn is the fort’s secular relic: a piece of Rizal’s vertebra with a bullet wound.

Rizal’s Cerrada Coat

Other Rizal personal effects and relics on display in glass cases are two vests made by Rizal’s sisters (1878-81), a cerrada coat, a winter overcoat, fencing sword, dumbbell and walking cane.

Rizal’s Dumbbell and Fencing Sword

2 Vests Made By Rizal’s Sisters

The adjoining airconditioned, 18 meter by 8.5-m. room, Ang Tulang Walang-Hanggan (The Valedictory Poem) is nearly empty except for a glass case with Rizal’s original poem (written on both sides of a tiny piece of paper) and the alcohol burner where the poem was hidden.  Rizal gave this stove to his sister Trinidad with word of its hidden content.  The end of the wall facing the door is inscribed with the words of the “Mi Ultimo Adios” written in Spanish.

Rizal’s Original Mi Ultimo Adios

The last leg of the tour was the Galeriya sa Beranda (Veranda Gallery) where guests sign the guestbook.  Its Museum Shop sells reproductions of old photos, old promotional posters of movies and VHS tapes on the life of Rizal as well as paper bills, medals, stamps, books, key chains, T-shirts and even a cross stitch, all emblazoned with Rizal’s likeness.

Museum Shop

On the walls are plaques with Rizal’s “Mi Ultimo Adios” translated by individuals or groups into different languages : English (Nick Joaquin), Tagalog (Jose Gatmaytan), Korean (Korean Embassy), French (Jean-Claude Masson), Serbo-Croatian (“Povelja” Magazine) and Chinese (Shen Kwang Literary Association of the Philippines).

Czech and Spanish version of Rizal’s “Mi Ultimo Adios”

Translations in Romanian and Indonesian are found in the Garden Gallery.