Category Archives: Churches

Church of St. Thomas of Villanueva (Miag-ao, Iloilo)

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From our assembly point at the the University of the Philippines Visayas, we were driven 36 kms., past the towns of Oton, Tigbauan and Guimbas, to the town of Miag-ao, the first destination in our itinerary, where we made a short stopover at the town’s Church of St. Thomas of Villanueva for some photo ops.

The Church of St. Thomas of Villanueva

The Church of St. Thomas of Villanueva

My visit here completed my wish list, that of visiting all 4 Philippine churches that have received international acclamation by being included in the UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization) World Heritage List.  The others I’ve already visited are the Church of St. Augustine in Paoay (Ilocos Norte), the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption in Sta. Maria (Ilocos Sur) and the San Agustin Church in Intramuros (Manila).

The intricately carved facade

The intricately carved facade

The town’s unique and magnificent, fortress-like church is the third church edifice constructed since the foundation of the parish in 1731.  The first church, built near the Tumagbok River in Ubos around 1734, was burned and looted by Moro raiders in 1741.  The second, built by Fr. Fernando Camporredendo from 1744 to 1750, was burned by pirates who looted the town on May 1754.  To prevent a repetition, the present church was built on a hill (called Tacas) with a commanding view of the Miagao River (where the raiders usually come from).

Facade detail

Facade detail

Started in 1786 by Augustinian Fr. Francisco Maximo Gonzales, its huge stones were quarried from Sitio Tubo (San Joaquin) and Igbaras and were supervised by maestro de obras from Igbaras.  The church was completed in 1797.

A statue niche

A statue niche

Another statue niche

Another statue niche

The church was partially restored by Fr. Agustin Escudero in 1864 and its interior was decorated by Fr.Jose Sacristan in 1880.  It was damaged at different times by fire during the revolution in 1898, the Philippine-American War and again in 1910.  After the powerful January 5, 1948 earthquake, it was immediately restored by Monsigñor Wenceslao Enojo and again from 1959 to 1962 by Monsigñor Leonardo Javillo and the National Historic Institute under Chairman Esteban A. Ocampo.

A row of flying buttresses

A row of flying buttresses

A historical marker was installed by the National Historical Commission, under Director Luis Montilla, on February 16, 1963 to underscore its historical and artistic value.  The church was declared a National Landmark on August 1, 1973 by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 260 and in 1994, was listed by the UNESCO as one of the world’s cultural heritage sites.

Plaque (Philippine Historical Committee)

Plaque (Philippine Historical Committee)

This church is one of the finest examples of peripheral Baroque architecture in the country and its facade blends various architectural tendencies into one local religious art style.   Its superbly-carved, high relief stone facade, embellished with naif folk motifs, features the giant St. Christopher dressed Filipino-farmer style with his pants rolled up, carrying the Infant Jesus on his shoulders across an invisible river, amidst large coconut palms and fruit-laden papaya and guava trees which symbolize fertility.

The left bell tower

The left bell tower

The right bell tower

The right bell tower

All these are reminiscent of Aztec art. Its massive, 4-m. thick walls made of honey-colored sandstone have heavy, round buttresses built to withstand earthquakes and Moro pirate raids.  The first and second levels and the integrated triangular pediment (with two oblong windows at its base) are separated by decorative balusters and the heavily drawn frieze.  The simple semicircular arched main entrance is flanked by columns and statued niches and crowned by a huge stylized acanthus and a very ornately designed statued niche.

The church interior

The church interior

The church is flanked by two massive, gradually tapering and medieval castle-like square bell towers.  Its corners are strengthened by 3/4 circular buttresses.  Both are dissimilar in height because of design changes.  One has a high pointed roof while the other has a low-pitched roof.  One has four levels and the other, three.  The left tower’s extra storey was added in 1839 by Fr. Francisco Perez (parish priest from 1827 to 1864).  The church’s simple interior is highlighted by a striking gold-plated retablo.

How To Get There: Miagao is located 40.04 kms. from Iloilo City, 12.2 kms. from San Joaquin and 8 kms. from Guimbal.

A Tour of Valenzuela City

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After the video documentary presentation on the life of Dr. Pio Valenzuela, I requested museum curator Mr. Jonathan C. Balsamo for a tour of the city’s historical sites using their open pickup.  Sandy, Mark, Ronnie and Violeta  joined us.  Jandy and Violeta stayed inside the pickup’s airconditioned cabin while Mark, Sandy, Jonathan, Ronnie and I rode on the open cargo area as we traversed the city’s very narrow streets exposed to the hot, late morning sun.

Arkong Bato

Our first stopover was at Arkong Bato (Spanish for “stone arch”), along the only road that links MacArthur Highway with the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX).  This arch was built in 1910 along the old national road passing through the old town of Polo before the construction of MacArthur Highway.  It formerly marked the boundary of Rizal (where Malabon formerly belonged) and Bulacan (where Polo formerly belonged).  Today, it marks the boundary between Brgy. Santulan (Malabon City) and Brgy. Arkong Bato (Valenzuela City).

San Gabriel House
The former Valenzuela City Emergency Hospital

We next proceeded to the old town proper and made a stopover at Liwasang Rizal, the old town plaza with its own simplified replica of the Rizal Monument (its base somewhat shorter because the plaza’s grounds were elevated through the years).  Surrounding it are the old town hall (now home to the former Valenzuela City Emergency Hospital), the San Diego De Alcala Church and the old but still wonderfully preserved, 2-storey San Gabriel house (now home to Aida Carinderia).  The latter has capiz sliding windows, intricate woodwork and double roofs typical of houses built during the Spanish and American eras.  This house should be added to the list of the city’s tourist attractions.

Church of San Diego Alcala Ruins

Beside the church are the ruins of the oldest church in Valenzuela, built by Fr. Juan Taranco and Don Juan Monsod and later expanded and completed by Fr. Jose Valencia, aided by Capt. Juan Tibay, in 1632.  In 1852, the church was fully repaired and remodelled by Fr. Vicente but was razed to the ground during World War II.  Only the octagonal bell tower and the arched main entrance have been preserved.

Gabaldon-style building of Pio Valenzuela Elementary School

From the church, we also walked to the nearby American-era, Gabaldon (named after Assemblyman Isauro Gabaldon of Nueva Ecija, author of Act No. 1801, better known as the Gabaldon Act)-style schoolhouse of Pio Valenzuela Elementary School, one of a number of heritage schoolhouses, built in the Philippines between 1907 and 1946, that follow standard plans designed by American Arch. William Parsons.

Church of San Roque

Back to our pickup, we next proceeded to the San Roque Church which dates to 1763.  The church facade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by statue niches and twin bell towers with pyramidal roofs.  The wall above the triangular pediment as well as the wings on the sides of the church are probably modern additions.  Our last destination in our city tour was the 2-storey Pio Valenzuela House.  The original house was, together with its antique furniture, razed during World War II.

Dr. Pio Valezuela House

The marker in front of the house erroneously identifies it as the birthplace of Dr. Pio.  He was actually born in Brgy. Tagalag, its actual location already unknown even to his relatives.  This house was where Dr. Pio lived and died.  Only a caretaker lives here.  The grounds of the house were partly flooded, a result of it being situated on one of the lowest parts of the city.  Valenzuela City is located on swampy land crisscrossed by rivers.

Historical Marker

Arkong Bato: Brgy. Arkong Bato
San Roque Church: Brgy. Mabolo
Pio Valenzuela House: Velilla St., Brgy. Pariancillo Villa

Pulilan Town Proper (Bulacan)

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From Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort, Jandy and I made our way back to Manila via NLEX which we plan to enter via the Pulilan Exit. Along the way, we passed through the center of Pulilan town and made a short stopover there for merienda, parking our Toyota Revo at the plaza in front of the town’s Diocesan Shrine of St. Isidore the Farmer (San Isidro Labrador).  The church was closed during our visit and I could only admire it from outside.

Check out “Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort“

Church of St. Isidore the Farmer

During the Carabao Festival (May 15, Feast of San Isidro Labrador), the  church is the site where carabaos (water buffalos) are made to kneel or genuflect with its two front legs as a sign of reverence to the patron saint. Like the Church of St. Augustine from the nearby town of Baliuag, the church is also known for featuring one of the longest Holy Week processions with at least 110 floats.

Check out “Diocesan Shrine of St. Isidore the Farmer“

Pulilan Municipal Hall
Museo de Pulilan

From the plaza, we walked, along a side street, to the municipal hall where we had some burgers and soft drinks at a nearby refreshment stand.  Across the municipal hall is the Municipal Trial Court Bldg. which also houses the Museo de Pulilan.

Aguirre Ancestral House, home of Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort

From the town proper, the back of Aguirre Ancestral House (home of the aforementioned Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort) can be seen.  After merienda,we retraced our steps back to the car and proceeded on our way back to Manila.

Diocesan Shrine of St. Isidore the Farmer (Pulilan, Bulacan)

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Church of St. Isidore the Farmer

The 19th-century Church of St. Isidore the Farmer (San Isidro Labrador), dedicated to Saint Isidore, the Laborer, was first built, with light materials, immediately after the erection of the parish. In 1826, Fr. Juan Rico started the construction of a new church. It was greatly damaged during the June 3, 1863 and July 19, 1880 earthquakes and was rebuilt by Fr. Miguel de Celis a few years after.

The triangular pediment with the Augustinian emblem in the center

Its plastered, predominantly Baroque  and Neo-Classical façade, punctured by rectangular openings (three rectangular windows and one canopied rectangular main portal), contrasts greatly with the bare stone walls on the side and interior of the church.  It is divided, by rectangular pilasters (the ones at the ends are topped by urn-like finials), into three vertical sections capped off by a triangular pediment.  The 3-storey bell tower, on the left side, with the top level done in concrete, has a balustrade on the second level.

The 3-storey bell tower

Devoid of heavily detailed ornamentation, only the Augustinian emblem, motifs on the cornice and the balustrade on the belfry break the monotony of design. 

Church of St. Isidore the Farmer: Brgy. Poblacion, Pulilan, Bulacan. Tel: (044) 676-1294.  Feast of St. Isidore the Farmer: May 15.

How to Get There: Pulilan is located 50.5 kms. (a 1.25-hour drive) from Manila an 19.8 kms. (a 45-min. drive) from Malolos City.

Church of St. John the Baptist (Calumpit, Bulacan)

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After a jobsite inspection in Calumpit and lunch at a local Max Restaurant outlet in Malolos City, Jandy and I still had time on our hands so we decided to go on a sightseeing tour.  We drove to Calumpit town proper and made a stopover at the Church of St. John the Baptist.  Built in 1575 under the supervision of Augustinian Fr. Diego Vivar-Ordonez, this church is one of the oldest in Bulacan.  Both church and convent were finished before 1779.  It was originally built with underground escape tunnels which led to the river to provide an avenue for escape for priests with the church treasury if attacked by robbers.  Revolutionaries and Spaniards are also buried in the tunnels.   During World War II, it was Japanese Gen. Tanaka’s last battlefield. 

Church of St. John the Baptist

Originally built in red brick, recent renovations have plastered it in cement (some portions still show the original red brick).  A newer triangular pediment was placed on top of the undulating raking cornice of the original.  Four Corinthian columns, resting on pedestals, support the cornice and pediment.

The bell tower

Its rectangular facade is divided into three segments.  The first level has two rectangular windows on the side panel for balance and contrast.  The main entrance has a trefoil arch, embellishments, huge scroll-like decorations and a rose window on the pediment, half-framed by curvilinear moldings, integrated with the second level. Its interior is profusely decorated in the ornate Baroque style.  The simple 5-storey, hexagonal bell tower, on its left, was reconstructed in 1829 by Fr. Antonio Llanos, but was burned by revolutionaries in 1899.

The church interior

Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Daraga, Albay)

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From the Cagsawa Ruins, we next proceeded to Daraga town proper then drove up Sta. Maria Hill to the town’s Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Nuestra Senora de la Porteria).  The church compound has an awesome view of the sea and majestic Mayon Volcano.

Church of Our Lady of the Gate

This church, built in 1773 by Franciscan monks, has an ornately carved Baroque (others say it is a mixture of Mexican Baroque and Renaissance Gothic) facade divided into 3 segments by 4 tall, twisted columns with medallions, bearing images of the Four Evangelists, at each column’s center.  The church also has a semicircular arched main entrance topped by floral decorations and is covered with an image of Our Lady of the Gate, statuary, alcoves, religious seals, the coat-of-arms of the Franciscan Order, and niches on the walls and pedimentcontaining statues of Franciscan saints articulately carved on volcanic rock.  

The facade’s pantheon of saints
The right side of the church

Because its facade was made with volcanic rock, the church originally had a black facade as depicted on old photos.  However, during my visit, its much-admired Old World look was gone as it was painted, during restoration work (done in close coordination with and approval of the National Museum, National Historical Institute and National Commission  on Culture and Arts) in 2008, with a white lime coating (containing chemical ingredients that turned it white) which, according to its conservationists, would protect the facade from exposure to the elements and from further deterioration.  This intervention, also done in historical landmarks in other countries, was deemed acceptable as it does not adversely affect its cultural significance.  

Twisted column detail
The NHI plaque

The octagonal bell tower (or belfry), on the church’s right, carries images of the 12 Apostles engraved on the sides of the angles.  As per my visit, it still retains its volcanic black color as well as the unwanted foliage protruding from its volcanic stone facade.  On the church’s left is the unremarkable convent.  Compared to the church’s exquisite face, the church’s white interior is bland and simply adorned, a  result of what historians refer to as “unregulated reconstructions and modifications.” However, it still houses priceless old santos (statues of saints).  

The unpainted octagonal belfry

During the Philippine-American War, the church was used as headquarters by the U.S. Cavalry and, during World War II, as headquarters by the Japanese.  Damaged during the liberation in 1945, the church was repaired from 1971 to 1973.  On October 29, 2007, this church was declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure (specifically cited were the eastern and western facade, the bell tower and the baptistery), the second in Albay after the Church of St. John the Baptist in Tabaco City  and, one year later, on October 16, 2008, it was likewise declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute (NHI).

The bland interior

Church of Our Lady of the Gate: Sta. Maria Hill, Brgy. San Roque, Daraga, Albay.  Tel: (052) 483-4416.  E-mail: daragaparish@gmail.com.  

Cagsawa Ruins (Daraga, Albay)

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From Lignon Hill Nature Park, we next drove down to the nearby town of Daraga.  About 3.5 kms. northwest of the town, 500 m. north of the highway, we entered the Cagsawa Ruins, a place I first visited 7 years ago during a stopover on our way to Naga City (Camarines Sur).  Much has happened since my first visit.  In 2006, mud flows from Mayon Volcano, triggered by typhoon Reming (international name: Durian) buried 8 villages in the town (killing at least 1,266 people) and we passed many ruined and buried homes.

The Cagsawa Ruins

Still, the Cagsawa Ruins, the most visited and photographed site in all of Albay, remains as it seemed during my last visit, the big difference being my classic, postcard view of Mt. Mayon’s perfect cone wasn’t obstructed by swirling afternoon clouds. The blackened church bell tower (or belfry), as well as the broken down walls of the priest’s house and municipal building (all destroyed during the February 1, 1814 eruption that killed 1,200 townspeople), have still withstood the test of time and the elements.  

Other ruins at the site

Something I never noticed before was a mini-resort with rental cottages  and 2 modest-size swimming pools (adult and kiddie) to the right of the ruins. This begs the questions “Why build a resort at  the very site where thousands have died while escaping the wrath of the volcano?”  “Did they dig up skeletons when they dug the pools?” The resort owner who built it was somehow unmindful of the sacredness of the place.

The swimming pool beside the ruins.  “What were they thinking?”

Right outside the ruins were a chain of souvenir shops selling a colorful assortment of locally produced products such as bags and baskets; Tiwi ceramic ware;  furniture (wicker chairs, sala and dining sets, etc.); Tabaco cutlery items (bolos, knives, grass cutters, etc.), arts and crafts made from Mayon’s ashes, hardwood, abaca and shells; exotic flowers and orchids; T-shirts with different designs; and native food delicacies such as kuyog, pili nut confections (salted, sugar-coated, etc.), canned pinangat, and sweet pineapple wine. Restaurants on the site also offer bicol express (a spicy shrimp dish with coconut cream), inasal na sira (grilled fish) among other dishes. 

Cagsawa Ruins: Brgy. Busay, Daraga. Admssion: PhP10. Parking fees: trucks and buses (PhP20); cars (PhP15) and motorcycles and tricycles (PhP5). 

Church of St. Rose of Lima (Bagacay, Albay)

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Church of St. Rose of Lima

The Church of St. Rose of Lima was said to have been started in 1660 (stamped on the church entrance), the year Bacacay became independent from Tabaco.    In 1952, it was heavily damaged by super typhoon “Trix” and again, in 1987, by another super typhoon, “Sisang,” which destroyed the roof and broke its glass windows.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Its 2-level façade, built with volcanic rock from Mayon Volcano, has semicircular arched main entrance with a poorly conceived and totally inappropriate white-painted concreteportico  built over it.  An earlier, late 1900s photo of the church shows it without one.

 

It is flanked by paired pilasters and statued niches with single pilasters at the end.  Above is a triangular pediment with a centrally located oculus. The church’s orientation is peculiar as it faces northwest instead of the bay, contrary to the stipulations of the Laws of the Indies.

The 3-storey bell tower

On the left is the 3-storey bell tower with a domed roof and receding storeys. Also on the left side of the church are the ruins of the old church and belfry, with meter-tick walls of volcanic rocks an high windows.  Outside the church is a statue of the risen Christ.

The church’s modern interior

Church of St. Rose of Lima: Bes St., Bagacay, Albay. Tel: (052) 487-2003. Feast of St. Rose of Lima: August 30.

How to Get There: Bacacay is located 502.6 kms. (a 10-hour drive) from Manila and 37.2 kms. (a 1-hour drive) from Legaspi City.

Bacacay: A Blend of History and Nature (Albay)

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From Sto. Domingo, Bernard and I motored to the nearby town of Bacacay where we paid a courtesy call on, and had lunch with, 72 year old, first term Mayor Tobias B. “Tobing” Betito, the former vice-mayor and schoolteacher, at the newly renovated (last 2008), 2-storey municipal hall.  Mayor Betito granted us the use of an Isuzu Crosswind and the services of a driver so that we can explore Cagraray Island, the home of the 20-hectare, world-class Misibis Resorts, Estate and Spa.

The 2-storey municipal hall

Before leaving for Cagraray Island, we walked over, across the street, to the Church of St. Rose of Lima (a Peruvian saint).

Check out “Church of St. Rose of Lima“

Church of St. Rose of Lima

At the left side of the church are the ruins of the old church and belfry.  My guess is these are the ruins of the church built in 1660.  The present church was probably built in the 1800s.

The old church ruins

We next walked over the hardly discernable remains of Roca Baluarte in Brgy. 3.  Formerly a Spanish-era fort with a lookout tower used to warn against Muslim pirates, it was converted into a beach resort but now lies abandoned, amidst nipa palms and mangroves, after the resort was ruined during super typhoon Reming (international name: Durian) that hit the Bicol Region on November 30, 2006.

Roca Baluarte
Mayor’s Office:  Municipal Hall, Poblacion, Bacacay, Albay. Tel: (052) 588-3243.  Website: www.bacacay.gov.ph.

Sto. Domingo: Birthplace of the Sarung Banggi (Albay)

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The next day, Bernard and I left the Governor’s Mansion in Legaspi City and took a jeep to Quick & Hearty for a buffet Filipino breakfast.  Here, we met up with Mr. Martin A. Calleja, head of Bicol Adventures Philippines and Viento de Mar Beach Resort in Bacacay. After breakfast, we made a short stopover at the DOT Region V office at Rawis where we met up with Regional Director Maria O. Ravanilla.  From here, we made the short 11.5 km. drive to the nearby quaint town of Sto. Domingo.

The author with Bernard and Dir. Maria Ravanilla

Sto. Domingo, formerly called Libog (a corruption of the Bicol term libot meaning “roundabout”), is nestled at the foot of Mayon Volcano. The town is noted for its numerous beach resorts along the jet black sand Kalayukaii Beach in Brgy. Kalayukaii, located 3 kms. east of the town.  At the Spanish-era (the former tribunal and presidencia built in 1832) municipal hall in Plaza Pugad Lawin, we made a courtesy call on Mayor Herbie  B. Aguas.

The municipal hall and fountain at Plaza Pugad Lawin

Also at the plaza, across the fountain and municipal hall is the picturesque Church of St. Dominic Guzman, the town’s most prominent landmark.

Check out “Church of St. Dominic Guzman“

Church of St. Dominic Guzman

The town is also the birthplace of Potenciano V. Gregorio (May 19, 1880-February 12, 1939), the composer of the famous local ditty Sarung Banggi (meaning “one night”), the best known song in the Bicol dialect, on May 10, 1910.  The 8-day (May 18-25) Sarung Banggi Summer Festival, which features a folk song festival, immortalizes this love song and pays tribute to its illustrious local son.   His ancestral house was burned when a fire hit the town in 1961.

Potenciano V. Gregorio Mausoleum

On May 2005, Mayor Aguas, together with then Albay Gov. Fernando and First District Rep. Edcel Lagman, had Gregorio’s remains exhumed in La Loma Cemetery and brought home to Sto. Domingo for a municipal vigil and reinterred at the town’s cemetery with military honors. In 2006, a mausoleum and his bust, also at the town plaza, was erected and his remains transferred there.  In 2010, Gregorio was declared a municipal artist by the Sangguniang Bayan.

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Plaza Pugad Lawin, St. Domingo, Albay.  Tel: (052) 435-1357.
Department of Tourism Regional Office V: Rawis, Legaspi City.  Tel: (052) 435-0085 and 482-0715.  Fax: (052) 482-0712. E-mail: dot_bicol@yahoo.com. Website: www.wowbicol.com.