Palazzo Pitti – Room of the Stove (Florence, Italy)

Room of the Stove (Sala della Stufa) with the wall fresco The Age of Bronze by Pietro de Cortuna

Located next door to the  Grand Duke’s bedroom, the Room of the Stove (Sala della Stufa) was, in the past, an open loggia or gallery that was later closed off in the seventeenth century and restructured as a “stove,” a bathroom heated using the same techniques as the Roman baths and intended for private use by the Grand Duke. It still contains the pipes of the heating system.

Ceiling fresco

Its decoration, commissioned by Grand Duke Ferdinando II de’ Medici, was done in three phases. Between 1625 and 1627, the Grand Duke employed various Florentine masters including Michelangelo Cinganelli , Matteo Rosselli and Ottavio Vannini to decorate the vaults and lunettes with images of the great monarchies of antiquity and allegorical figures.  The stuccoes were instead made by Antonio Novelli and Sebastiano Pettirossi.

Wall fresco with the Age of Iron(Pietro de Cortuna)

Later, in 1637, Pietro da Cortona was then entrusted to decorate the walls with a depiction of The Four Ages of Man  (a theme inspired by Ovid‘s Metamorphoses and most likely conceived by Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger), painting the Golden Age (which alludes to the happy reign of Ferdinand II de ‘Medici and his union with Vittoria della Rovere) and Silver Age (which dates back to the painter’s first stay in Florence in 1637) diptych.

The Age of Gold (Pietro de Cortuna)

In the Golden Age painting, farmers, children and animals coexist in harmony in the imaginary Arcadia, evoking the peaceful and happy rule of Grand Duke Ferdinand II de ‘Medici, whose reign further flourished following his marriage, in 1637, to Vittoria della Rovere.  This joyous event is alluded to by the painter in his portrayal of a young couple courting below the majestic oak, the heraldic emblem of the Rovere family, and the heraldic Marzocco lion, symbol of Florence and the Medici house.

The Age of Silver Pietro de Cortuna)

In 1641, Pietro followed this up with the scenes of the Bronze Age and Iron Age on the basis of a prior plan, paintings which were more agitated and Rubenesque in nature, painted some years apart and which contrast images of a civilized society with the violent events of war, another example of an erudite iconographic technique.

These frescoes, representing a fundamental work of the Baroque in the city, gave new impetus to the Florentine school of painting. The birth of the great Baroque murals, it marked the arrival of a new style in Florence which introduced a lighter lexicon and narrative inspired by the Venetian paintings of Paolo Veronese and the Roman frescoes of Annibale Carracci.

The floor, covered in 1627 with majolica tiles from the Montelupo factory, was almost completely and faithfully restored, copying the ancient design (based on cartoon by Giulio Parigi), and carried out in the early twentieth century by the Cantagalli Manufacture.  In the center of the floor stands the Triumph of the Monarchy, the only original part. Other fragments of the original floor, found in a cellar, are now in display in the adjacent vestibule of the Del Moro staircase.

Works in the Stove Room include:

Frescoes (vault)

Frescoes (walls)

  • Golden Age (Pietro da Cortona, 1637)
  • Silver Age (Pietro da Cortona, 1637)
  • Bronze Age (Pietro da Cortona, 1641)
  • Iron Age (Pietro da Cortona, 1641)
  • Allegory of Commerce (unknown author, 17th century)
  • Allegory of Justice (unknown author, 17th century)
  • Vase (Sèvres manufacture, 19th century)
  • Cloaked female figure with veiled head  (Roman art, 2nd century AD)
  • Female figure with patella and flute  (Roman art, 2nd century AD)
  • Female figure with cornucopia (Cybele?) (Roman art, Imperial age)
  • Vibia Aurelia Sabina  (Roman art, imperial age)

Room of the Stove: Pitti Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00).

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Pitti – Hall of the Iliad (Florence, Italy)

 

During the Medici era, trucco (“trick, a form of ground billiards) was played here and, in 1689, Cosimo III de Medici made it his own private room, equipped with a chapel. The original decoration, by Giuseppe Nicola Nasini, dates back to that period with the Novissimi, four very large religious canvases that represented the last four moments of life – Death, Justice, the Inferno and Paradise.

Hall of the Iliad (Sala dell’Iliade)

In 1795, the Grand Duke Ferdinand III of Tuscany, of the House of  Habsburg-Lorraine, had the religious canvases removed and incorporated the room in the sequence that would constitute a major part into the path of the Palatine Gallery.

Hall of the Iliad (Sala dell’Iliade)

He wanted to have it redecorated with a mythological theme but this program was only realized in 1815, after his return from Napoleonic exile, when he entrusted the enterprise to Luigi Sabatelli  who, from 1819 to 1825, worked on it with the use of aid.

Assembly of the Gods presided over by Jupiter

 

The fresco is a representation of the events prior to the Trojan War (taken from Book XV of Homer’s Iliad).  At the center is the Council of the Gods where Jove (Jupiter) orders the assembled gods to refrain from interfering or trying to influence the outcome of the Trojan War.

Lunettes depicting Juno, who despised the Trojans, using various initiatives to distract Jove with her seductions.

The lunettes, on the other hand, depict Juno, who despised the Trojans, using various initiatives to distract Jove with her seductions.

Statue of Charity (Lorenzo Bartolini)

On display is La Gravida (ca. 1506), a work by Raphael, whose brilliant colors are enhanced by the black background, typical of contemporary Flemish painting.

Baptism of Christ (Paolo Veronese , ca. 1580)

Each wall has a large altarpiece in the center which, as a whole, exemplifies the various currents of the early sixteenth century in Florence.

Assunta Panciatichi (Andrea del Sarto, ca. 1522-1523)

Two, in rigorous symmetry, are by Andrea del Sarto – the Assunta Passerini (1526) and the Assunta Panciatichi (ca. 1522-1523).  Another, the Pala Pitti (1512), is by Fra Bartolomeo, while the Pala Dei (1522) is by Rosso Fiorentino.

Christ in Glory and Saints (Annibale Carracci, ca. 1597-1598)

Other works in the Hall of the Iliad include:

Madonna and Child Enthroned, Saint John the Baptist and Saint Eustace (Niccolò Soggi, ca. 1510)

Hall of the Iliad:First Floor, Palatine Gallery, Pitti Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00).

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Pitti – Hall of Ulysses (Florence, Italy)

Hall of Ulysses (Sala di Ulisse)

At the time of the Medici, the Hall of Ulysses (Sala di Ulisse) was the grand duke’s bedroom. From about 1775, when the Hapsburg-Lorraines succeeded as Grand Dukes of Tuscany, the room was part of the apartment of Maria Theresa of Habsburg-Lorraine (eldest daughter of Pietro Leopoldo) and, after the Napoleonic interlude, was used, with the nearby rooms, as part of the Palatine Gallery.

In this period, after 1814, Grand Duke Ferdinando III of Hapsburg-Lorraine commissioned Gaspare Martellini to paint on the ceiling the Return of Ulysses to Ithaca (alluding to the return of the Grand Duke after the exile in the Napoleonic period), with a frieze decorated at the corners below with allegories of Loyalty, of Fortress, of Hercules and Apollo. In this room, Il Cigoli‘s Ecce Homo (1607) was selected, during the Napoleonic looting, to be sent to Paris along with the other works of art.

Ceiling fresco

In our museum itinerary, the first painting we encountered was the Madonna dell’Impvecchia (Madonna of the Implanted, ca. 1514), a noteworthy work by Raphael which was made during the artist’s stay in Rome. The Virgin and Child in Glory with Six Saints (1527-1528) is the first work of Andrea del Sarto‘s gallery.

Virgin and Child in Glory with Six Saints (Andrea del Sarto, 1527-28)

Also interesting is the Death of Lucrezia (ca. 1475), one of the gallery’s rare fifteenth-century works and an early painting by Filippino Lippi who decorated a pair of wedding chests made perhaps in collaboration with Botticelli.

Love the Winner (Orazio Riminaldi, ca. 1624)

Other works in the Hall of Ulysses include:

Saint John the Baptist in the Desert (Cristofano Allori, ca. 1612-1615)

Hall of Ulysses: First Floor, Palatine Gallery, Pitti Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00).

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Pitti – Hall of Prometheus (Florence, Italy)

Hall of Prometheus

The Hall of Prometheus (Sala di Prometeo), in the Medici era, was part of the private apartment of the Grand Duke.  Although intended for a public function, the meeting of the Council of the Grand Duchy was done here in the presence of the Grand Duke himself.

Ceiling fresco (Giuseppe Colignon)

From 1809 to 1814, it was redecorated with frescoes, by the Sienese artist Giuseppe Collignon, with stories of Prometheus (after whom the room is named), both in the large panel of the ceiling and in the monochrome frieze; at the corners the Four Seasons. Here, Prometheus is shown stealing sacred fire from the chariot of Apollo while being protected by Minerva

Tondo Bartolini (Filippo Lippi)

The room is dedicated to the oldest paintings in the collection from the Florentine Renaissance and, in particular, the 12 tondi, typical round-shaped paintings of private homes loved by Florentine patrons but which were inserted into square Neo-Classical frames in later periods.

Other tondi

The most famous of the tondi is the Madonna with the Child (ca. 1465-1470), a masterpiece by Filippo Lippi known as the Tondo Bartolini, of delicate harmony typical of the artist’s maturity.  There are also the two portraits done  by Sandro Botticelli and his shop including the Bella Simonetta.

St. Francis in Ecstasy (Jusepe de Ribera, 1643)

Here is also the Holy Family with a Saint (ca. 1490-1495), a tondo by Luca Signorelli. The first Tuscan Mannerism is represented by the Adoration of the Magi (1523 ) and by the Ten Thousand Martyrs (ca. 1529-1530) by Jacopo Pontormo.

Expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Earthly Paradise (Andrea del Minga and Baccio Bandinelli, ca. 1560)

Other works in the Hall of Prometheus include:

Colossal Vase (Sèvres manufacture, 1844)

Hall of Prometheus: First Floor, Palatine Gallery, Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00).

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Pitti – Poccetti Gallery (Florence, Italy)

Poccetti Gallery (Galleria del Poccetti)

The next room, between the apartments of the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess, was the Poccetti Gallery (Galleria del Poccetti), also called Poccetti’s Corridor (Corridorio del Poccetti).

Ceiling vault

During the 17th century, this room was once a barrel-vaulted loggia referred to as the “loggetta made into a gallery,” a passageway open to the garden and an interior courtyard that connected the private apartment of the Grand Duke with the apartment of the Grand Duchess.

Allegory of Justice (Mateo Rosselli)

This corridor owes its traditional name to the erroneous attribution of the frescoes on the vault, once believed to be by Florentine artist  Bernardino Poccetti (Bernardino Barbatelli) and, instead, made after his death, at the time of Cosimo II.

It was based on a project by his pupil Michelangelo Cinganelli who executed the pictorial decoration with the help of Filippo TarchianiMatteo Rosselli and Ottavio Vannini (1620-25).  In 1813, the logetta was closed off and became a part of the new Palatine Gallery.

Lunette with fresco of Siena with the She-wolf

Lunette with fresco of Florence with the Marzocco

In keeping with the typical taste at the end of the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th century, the ceiling vault is subdivided into squares, cartouches, panels and folders built into the architecture, with allegorical figures such as Faith, Justice and Fortress; in the lunettes the allegories of Florence (with the marzocco) and of Siena (with the she-wolf). The whole is enriched with grotesques and stuccos.  In the center of the hall is a table (1716) commissioned by Cosimo III and done by Giovan Battista Foggini.

Ila and the Nymphs (Francesco Furini, 1630-1633)

Other works in the Poccetti Gallery include:

Bust of Cosimo II (Mattias Ferrucci, 1621)

Poccetti Gallery: Pitti Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00).

 

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Pitti – Hall of Music (Florence, Italy)

Hall of Music (Sala della Musica)

Returning to the Sala del Castagnoli, we then entered the Hall of Music (Sala della Musica) which was built, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, by combining two rooms that connected the respective apartments of the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess.  With its Neo-Classical decoration, the room was intended for musical entertainment, hence its also being known as the Drums due to the curious cylindrical shape of the furniture such as stools and commodes.  

In 1813, during the Napoleonic period, it was decided to create a “first drawing room of the Emperor” here, decorated with murals depicting the Genius of France and the Napoleonic Battles.  In 1814, with the restoration of the Lorraines, Luigi Ademollo (1764-1849) was commissioned to completely renovated the half-decorated room by creating a new theme for the fresco (Glory of the Habsburg House) on the ceiling.

In 1860 the fresco was retouched by the Savoy family  by adding the Italian flag and giving it a blue mantle and the Savoy crown, thereby transforming the personification of Austria into that of Italy.The monochrome frieze, which shows the Liberation of Vienna from the Turkish Siege in 1683, effectively simulates bas-reliefs.

A table, made in 1819 by Pierre-Philippe Thomire (Napoleon’s court goldsmith), consists of a large block of glowing green malachite dignified the malachite with lion paws and sphinxes and mounted onto a lavish base of gold-plated metal.

Table (Pierre-Philippe Thomire, 1819)

Works in the Music Room also include:

  • Four busts of Roman emperors (Francesco Carradori)
  • Furniture series comprising twelve sideboards and sixteen stools (tambourines) (Florentine manufacture of the century XIX, 1820)
  • Four candelabra (French manufacture of the century. XIX, ca. 1805)
  • Clock (French manufacture of the century. XIX, ca. 1856)
  • Two watches (French manufacture of the century. XIX) 

Monochrome frieze showing Liberation of Vienna from the Turkish Siege in 1683

Hall of Music: Pitti Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00). 

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Pitti – White Hall (Florence, Italy)

White Hall (Sala Bianca)

During the time of the Medici, this majestic hall, made as the Salone dei Forestieri (Hall for Guests) for Grand Duke Ferdinando I (1549-1609) to house important visitors, was formerly the antechamber to the apartment of the “Cardinals and Foreign Princes” (now known as the “Apartment of the Tapestries”).

Around 1638, the room was decorated with 3 large monochrome pictures painted in 1589 by Ludovico Cigoli (1559-1613), Francesco Mati and Alessandro Allori (1535-1607) for the wedding of Ferdinando I and Cristina of Lorraine (1565-1637).   It later became the drawing room of the apartment of Violante of Bavaria (1673-1731), wife of the Grand Prince Ferdinando (1663-1713).

Stucco ceiling

During the House of Lorraine Period, it was transformed, at the wishes of Grand Duke Peter Leopold, into a sumptuous ballroom (still the largest room in the whole Palace) and was decorated, in high-relief stucco, between 1774 and 1776, by famous stucco makers Grato and Giocondo Albertolli, two brothers from Lugano who were hired by the Grand Duke to also decorate the ballroom of Villa del Poggio Imperiale. The result was so surprising that the Grand Duke decided not to cover the stuccos with gold but, as suggested by the stucco plasterers themselves, left them white, thus giving it the name White Hall (Sala Bianca)

Ceiling detail

All based on symbols of Neo-Classicism, the rich ornamental style of the stucco works adds a refined elegance to the room which is accentuated by the brightness of the white standing out against the pastel colors (pink, green and ochre) on the walls.  After the latest restoration interventions, the delicate tones of these colors were brought back to light.

Corinthian pilasters flanking doorway

The side walls are spaced, at intervals, with Corinthian pilasters and large doorways richly decorated with frames that culminate in segmental pediments leading into the rooms adjacent to the ballroom.

The large chandelier

This decorative setting, with its extremely modern, clean geometric style, was enriched with the sumptuous mirrors (from Paris) and 11 chandeliers (purchased in 1785 from the shop-emporium of Giacinto Micali in Livorno). To provide a symmetrical division of space and light, a larger chandelier was placed in the center and 10 on the sides of the room (4 on the long sides and 2 on each of the shorter ones).  The pavement, of fictive Venetian mosaic, dates from 1829.

Pediment above doorway

In the period just after World War II, this stunning ballroom became the important setting for international fashion.  In 1951, the first catwalk show was organized here by Giovanni Battista Giorgini and, for the following 30 years, the fashion parades in the White Hall have played an important role in spreading the international quality of fashion, making the ‘Pitti’ name world-renowned. Today, the White Room is often used for temporary exhibitions.

Bas-relief

White Hall: Pitti Palace, Piazza de’ Pitti, 1, FlorenceItaly. Tel:+39 055 294883. Open Tuesdays-Sundays, 8:15 AM – 6:50 PM. Admission: Palatine Gallery (€8.50), Silver Museum (€6.00), Gallery of Modern Art (€8.50), Costume Gallery/Porcelain Museum/Boboli Gardens/Bardini Garden (€6.00).

How to Get There: Take the C3 or D bus to the Pitti stop.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Florence, Italy)

Galleria Riccardiana

The Renaissance-style, relatively little frequented Palazzo Medici, also called the Palazzo Medici Riccardi  after the later family that acquired and expanded it, is the seat of the Metropolitan City of Florence and a museum. Located along Via Cavour (formerly Via Larga), close to the Church of San Lorenzo, the palace is the first Renaissance building erected in Florence and is a prototype of civil Renaissance architecture. Originally, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi was a cube shape with 10 windows across.  Today, what we see is a rectangular building with 17 windows.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi by night (photo: Wikipedia)

The palace, designed by Michelozzo di Bartolomeo (who was influenced in his design of the palace by both classical Roman and Brunelleschian principles) for Cosimo de’ Medici (head of the Medici banking family), was built between 1444 and 1484, after the defeat of the Milanese and when Cosimo de Medici had more governmental power.

Salone Carlo VIII

The simple and modest exterior (though the inside was more decorated) of this building reflects the desire of the Medici family to keep a low profile, while exercising their power behind the scenes, after their return to Florence after their short exile in the early 15th century. This is said to be the reason why Cosimo de’ Medici rejected Filippo Brunelleschi‘s earlier too sumptuous and extravagant proposal (although Brunelleschi’s style can still be seen in the palazzo) for Michelozzo’s more modest design.

Ceiling of Salone Carlo VIII

The palace remained the principal residence of the Medici family until Piero de Medici was exiled in 1494. Following their return to power, the palace continued to be used by lesser members of the Medici until 1540 when Cosimo I, after he became Grand Duke, moved his principal residence to the Palazzo Vecchio. Still, the younger family members continued to use the Palazzo Medici as a residence.

Check out “Palazzo Vecchio

Bedroom

Its purposely plain exterior too austere for Baroque era tastes, the palace was then sold, in 1659, by Ferdinando II de Medici to marquise Gabriello Riccardi, his majordomo maggiore (probably the highest office in the Florentine court). Francesco Riccardi (a nephew of Gabriello who inherited uncle’s fortune when he died in 1675) had the palace renovated and commissioned Neapolitan artist Luca Giordano (a pupil of Pietro da Cortona) to do the magnificent gallery (probably one of the most beautiful and best-preserved Baroque halls in Italy).

The author at Galleria Riccardiana

Frescoed with the Apotheosis of the Medici, Giordano, with the help of three collaborators, painted the entire gallery from mid-April to the end of August 1685. A new entrance staircase was also built by the architect Foggini and Baroque decorations were added also to the courtyard through the addition of old marbles belonging to the Riccardi collection.
In 1814, the Riccardi family sold the palace to the Tuscan state and, in 1874, the building became the seat of the provincial government of Florence.

Apotheosis of the Medici

Many significant events occurred in the palace:

  • This palace was the main home of Lorenzo the Magnificent (1449-1492), Cosimo the Elder’s grandson and the unmistakable Lord of Florence.
  • In 1478, the Pazzi conspirators came to the palace to pick up Lorenzo and his brother Giuliano to accompany them to the nearby Duomo for mass with the intention of assassinating both (they only succeeded in killing Giuliano during the service).
  • In 1489, a 14 year old Michelangelo came to live here as a teenage artist under the sponsorship of Lorenzo de Medici who actively sought to cultivate the development of young talent.
  • In 1494, when the Medici were temporarily banished from the city, the citizens came to loot the building, taking away many of its Renaissance masterpieces.
  • This palace was where Catherine the Medici, the future queen of France, lived as a little girl in the early 1500’s.
  • The courtyard of the palace was where Donatello’s famous sculpture ‘Judith’ as well as his masterpiece, the bronze David, originally stood (both commissioned by the Medici).
  • In 1512, soon after Giovanni became Pope Leo X, the first Medici pope, Lorenzo’s sons Giovanni and Giuliano return to this palace from exile to eventually rule Florence again – .
  • In 1689, the palace was the site of the wedding reception between Ferdinando de’ Medici, Grand Prince of Tuscany and Violante Beatrice of Bavaria
  • In 1938, a dinner between heads of state Benito Mussolini and Adolf Hitler was held in the Gallery Room of the palace.

Garden

The palace, well known for its stone masonry, uses building materials meant to accentuate the structure of the building through the threefold grading of masonry.  By the use of rough texture to smoother textures as the building heightens, the rusticated blocks, on the ground floor, and ashlar for the face of the top story, create an optical recession that makes the building look even larger.

Statue of Hercules with Nemean lion skin

The huge cornice crowning the palazzo’s roofline (the first time it debuted fully developed) gave the palazzo more significance in a historical context. Through their choice of building material on the exterior, the Medici were still able to show their accumulated wealth and the costly and rare rusticated blocks soon became seen as a status symbol. A large part of power politics was believed to have started with the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

Inner Courtyard

The tripartite elevation, expressing the Renaissance spirit of rationality, order, and Classicism on a human scale, is emphasized by horizontal string courses that divide the building into stories of decreasing height. The building seems lighter and taller due to the transition, from the rusticated masonry of the ground floor, to the more delicately refined stonework of the third floor which makes as the eye moves upward to the massive cornice that caps, and clearly defines, the building’s outline.

Inner Courtyard

Ancient Roman elements, both built and imagined in paintings during the Renaissance revival of Classical culture, were often replicated in architecture and, in the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, the rusticated masonry and the cornice had precedents in Roman practice.  However, in totality and unlike any known Roman building, it looks distinctly Florentine.

Courtyard of Columns

Michelozzo was influenced by the renowned sculptor and early Renaissance architect Brunelleschi who used Roman techniques. Two asymmetrical doors led to the typical fifteenth century open colonnaded courtyard (which originally opened on to a typically Renaissance garden) decorated with graffiti, a Brunelleschian design at the center of the palazzo plan, was based on the loggia of the Ospedale degli Innocenti and has roots in the cloisters that developed from Roman peristyles.

Statue of Orpheus (Baccio Bandinelli)

In 1517, the once open corner loggia and shop fronts, facing the street, were walled in and were replaced by Michelangelo‘s unusual ground-floor “kneeling windows” (finestre inginocchiate). These new windows, with exaggerated scrolling consoles appearing to support the sill and framed in a pedimented aedicule (a motif repeated in his new main doorway), are set into what appears to be a walled infill of the original arched opening, a Mannerist expression Michelangelo and others repeatedly used.

Tapestry

Different for its time, the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, believed to be the combination of Michelozzo’s traditional and progressive elements (that set the tone and style for future palazzo), was the start of several architectural breakthroughs:

  • The palazzo was the first building in the city to be built after the modern order including its own separate rooms and apartments.
  • The palazzo was also a start, to not only Michelozzo’s climb in status as an architect, but also as “the prototype of the Tuscan Renaissance palazzo” (which became a repeated style in many of his later work).
  • It was one of the first buildings to have a grand staircase that was not a secular design.
  • For a building of this time and the status symbol of the client at the time, it was a simple and modest-looking building.
  • One of Michelozzo’s most important commissions for the family, it became a standard for other housing designed by him in years to come.
  • The design of the palazzo, based on medieval design with other components added to it, was meant to be simpler but set, in such a way, that it still showed the wealth of the Medici family through use of materials, the interior and the simplicity.

Madonna with Child (Fra Lippo Lippi, ca. 1460)

The palazzo, divided into different, clear delineated floors, has a ground floor containing two courtyards, chambers, anti-chambers, studies, lavatories, kitchens, wells, secret and public staircases and, on each floor, other rooms meant for family.

Meeting Room

The perfectly symmetrical Magi Chapel (Capella dei Magi), perhaps the most important section of the palace, had its entrance through the central door, which today is closed. Divided into two juxtaposed squares (a large hall and a raised rectangular apse with an altar and two small lateral sacristies), it was begun around 1449-50.  Its precious ceiling of inlaid wood, painted and generously gilded according to Michelozzo’s design, is attributed to Pagno di Lapo Portigiano.

The Magi Chapel

The flooring, of marble mosaic work, is divided by elaborate geometric design which, due to the extraordinary value of the materials (porphyries, granites, etc.), affirmed the Medicis’ desire to emulate the magnificence of the Roman basilicas and the Florentine Baptistry.  A wooden baldachin, its architectural design attributed to Giuliano da Sangallo, around 1469, is worked in inlay and carving.

Altarpiece with copy of Fra Lippo Lippi’s Adoration in the Forest

The first pictorial element in the chapel is the altar panel bearing a copy, attributed to the Pseudo Pier Francesco Fiorentino (a follower of Filippo Lippi), Filippo Lippi‘s Adoration in the Forest which was sold during the last century and today is in Berlin. In 1992, the original beauty of the painting was restored.

Carved Wooden Stalls at the Magi Chapel

The famous frescos, by Benozzo Gozzoli who completed it around 1459, were adorned with a wealth of anecdotal detail and portraits of members of the Medici family including family members (Cosimo, his son Piero, and grandson Lorenzo the Magnificent) and their allies, along with wealthy protagonists Byzantine emperor John VIII Palaiologos and Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund of Luxemburg parading through Tuscany in the guise of the Three Wise Men.

Many of the depictions, regardless of its biblical allusions, explicitly referred to the train of the Concilium that met in Florence during the Council of Florence (1438-1439), an event that brought prestige to both Florence and the Medici.

The Angels in Adoration are in the rectangular apse and the Journey of the Magi are in the large hall. The sumptuous and varied costumes, with their princely finishing, make this pictorial series one of the most fascinating testimonies of art and costume of all time. The frescoes were restored from 1987 to 1992.

The Palazzo also displays works by Donatello, namely the statues David, displayed in the courtyard, and Judith and Holofernes, displayed in the garden. Two lunettes,  by Filippo Lippi, depicting Seven Saints and the Annunciation, are both now at the National Gallery, London.

The courtyard of columns has huge stone friezes decorating the walls.  Above it is a portico decorated with cameo-style carvings.The palace also has an interactive media room (in what was once Lorenzo’s bedroom) and conference rooms (still in use today) decorated with 17th-century tapestries.

Palazzo Medici Riccardi: Via Camillo Cavour 3, FlorenceItaly. Open daily (except Wednesday), 9 AM to 7 PM. Tel: (+33) 0 55-276-0340. Website: www.palazzo-medici.it. Admission: €7.00 (adults), €4.00 (children aged 6 to 12, military categories) and free for the disabled and their caretakers.   Ticket sales close at 6.30 PM.

Entrance to the Chapel is limited to a maximum of 8 visitors every 7 minutes Bookings operate on a “fast lane” basis, offering priority entrance at the beginning of every hour(from 9 AM to 6 PM) for a maximum number of 25 people at a time. Visitors who have booked should report to the ticket office at least 15 minutes before the booked time.

How to Get There: C1, 23, 14 stop Pucci

Palazzo Strozzi (Florence, Italy)

Palazzo Strozzi

Palazzo Strozzi

Palazzo Strozzi, facing the historical Via de’ Tornabuoni, is one of the finest examples of Renaissance domestic and civil architecture.  It has, since World War II, been Florence’s largest temporary exhibition space and, today, the palace is used for the now-annual antique show (founded as the Biennale dell’Antiquariato in 1959), international expositions, fashion shows, and other cultural and artistic events such as “Cézanne in Florence, Two Collectors and the 1910 Exhibition of Impressionism.”

Wooden model of the Palazzo Strozzi

Wooden model of the Palazzo Strozzi

During our visit, there ongoing exhibits were “Migrazioni” (Liu Xiadong, April 22-June 19, 2016) and “From Kandinsky to Pollock: The Art o the Guggenheim Collections” (March 19-July 24, 2016).

Check out “Migrazione Exhibit” and “From Kandinsky to Pollock: The Art o the Guggenheim Collections Exhibit” 

Designed by Benedetto da Maiano and begun in 1489  , the palace was built for Florentine banker, statesman and merchant Filippo Strozzi the Elder, a rival of the  Medici who had returned to the city in November 1466.  He desired the most magnificent palace to assert his affluent family’s continued prominence and, perhaps more important, a political statement of his own status.

Cortile (Central Courtyard)

Cortile (Central Courtyard)

To provide enough space for the construction of the largest palace that had ever been seen in Florence, a great number of other buildings were acquired during the 1470s and then demolished. A wood model of the design was provided by Giuliano da Sangallo. Italian architect Simone del Pollaiolo (il Cronaca), in charge of its construction until 1504, left the palace incomplete and the palace was only completed in 1538, long after Filippo Strozzi’s death in 1491.  That same year, Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici confiscated it but it was returned to the Strozzi family thirty years later.

It remained the property and seat of the Strozzi family until 1937, after which time it was occupied by the Istituto Nazionale delle Assicurazioni which made great changes to the building.

The dominating cornice

The dominating cornice

Since 1999, it has been managed by the City of Florence. The Palazzo is now home to the Institute of Humanist Studies, the Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi (Palazzo Strozzi Foundation), the noted Gabinetto Vieusseux, with its library and reading room, and the Istituto Nazionale del Rinascimento (Renaissance Studies Institute), the last two occupying the building since 1940.

StairFrom Palazzo Medici, Filippo copied the cubic form, designing its three floors around a cortile  (central courtyard) surrounded by an arcade,  inspired by Michelozzo. Its rusticated stone was also inspired by the Palazzo Medici but with more harmonious proportions. However, this free-standing structure is surrounded on all four sides by streets unlike the Medici Palace which is sited on a corner lot and, thus, has only two sides. The ground plan of Palazzo Strozzi, rigorously symmetrical on its two axes, with clearly differentiated scales for its principal rooms, introduced a problem new in Renaissance architecture (given the newly felt desire for internal symmetry of planning symmetry) – how to integrate the cross-axis.

The paired mullioned windows

The paired mullioned windows

The three sides overlooking the street each have three arched portals. The palazzo, with its dominating cornice (typical of the Florentine palaces of the time), has paired mullioned  windows (bifore) and wrought-iron lanterns, done by an iron-worker named Caparra, decorating the corners of the palace exterior. As they rise to the keystone, the radiating voussoirs of the arches increase in length, a detail that was much copied for arched windows set in rustication in the Renaissance revival.

Migrazioni (Liu Xiadong)

Migrazioni (Liu Xiadong)

Palazzo Strozzi: Piazza degli Strozzi, 50123 Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 055 264 5155. Open daily, 10 AM – 8 PM (Thursdays, 11 PM). E-mail: info@palazzostrozzi.org. Website: www.palazzostrozzi.org. Admission: €12.00.

Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of the Elements (Florence, Italy)

A pair of Roman busts at the Room of the Elements

The Apartments of the Elements, consisting of five rooms and two loggias, were the private quarters of Cosimo I.  Designed after Cosimo I de’ Medici had the palace extended, they were built under the direction of Giovanni Battista del Tasso from 1551 to 1555 but, on Tasso’s death, were altered almost at once when Giorgio Vasari, working for the first time as court architect and artist for Cosimo I and the Medicis, suggested raising their paneled ceilings.

Check out “Palazzo Vecchio

Room of Hercules – Bust of a Man (Roman, 3rd century)

With his assistants’ (Cristofano Gherardi and Marco Marchetti da Faenza) help, Vasari proceeded to decorate almost all of the rooms in a mere three years. A single, consistent iconographic program, devised by the scholar Cosimo Bartoli, links the decoration of the Apartments of the Elements with that of the Apartments of Leo X below them.

Ceiling of the Small Room between Room of Jupiter and Room of Hercules. In the center is a tortoise with a wind-filled sail on his back. This reminded Cosimo I to find the perfect balance between speed and patience. These sailing tortoises can be found all throughout the decoration of Palazzo Vecchio in many different forms, some are flying, some on the water, and some with angels. There are approximately 100 of them scattered across the ceilings, walls and floors of the palace.

Each one of the rooms is matched, on the floor below, by a room of the same size and dedicated to an illustrious member of the House of Medici.  In placing one set of frescoes above the other, it exalts the glory and virtue of the House of Medici (veritable “deities on earth”) by establishing a link between the dynasty’s rise to power and the origins of the “deities in heaven.”

Paneled ceiling at the Room of the Elements

The paintings in the rooms celebrate, as the beginning and end of all things, the genealogy of the “heavenly deities.” The cycle begins in the Room of the Elements, after which the apartments are named, with a depiction of the origins of the four elements (air, water, fire and earth) which sprung from the seed of Uranus scattered by Saturn.

The room perfectly reflects the proportions of the Room of Leo X immediately below it. Just as all things originate from the elements, so Pope Leo X laid the groundwork for the foundation of the Medici duchy of Tuscany.

Check out “Palazzo Vecchio – Apartments of Leo X”

The oil painting on the ceiling panels are dedicated to Air while the frescoes on the three windowless walls celebrate Water, Fire and Earth.

The marble fireplace

The marble fireplace was designed by Bartolomeo Ammannati. The genealogy of the “heavenly deities” carries on in the other rooms dedicated to Opis, the goddess of prosperity and Saturn’s wife, and to Ceres and Jupiter, the two deities’ descendants.

The Room of Ceres, dedicated the daughter of Saturn and Opis and the goddess of agriculture, lies above the Room of Cosimo il Vecchio. Just as Ceres provided for man’s welfare by bestowing on him the fruits of the earth, so did Cosimo il Vecchio bring joy and prosperity to the city of Florence.

Room of Ceres and Study of Calliope

Decorated from 1555 to 1558, the room gets its name from the oil on wood motif (depicting Ceres seeking her daughter Proserpina after her abduction by Pluto, god of the Underworld) on the ceiling by Doceno (a pupil of Vasari) while on the walls are Florentine tapestries with hunting scenes, from cartoons by Stradanus.

The stained glass window, with the Toilet of Venus, was done by Walter of Antwerp to a design by Giorgio Vasari and Marco da Faenza.

Paneled ceiling at the Room of Ceres and Study of Calliope

Ceres

Originally, the adjacent Study of Calliope housed, either on shelves or in cabinets and cases, miniatures, small bronzes, medals and other rare and precious items from Duke Cosimo I’s collection.

Room of Jupiter

The Room of Jupiter, decorated from 1555 to 1556, lies immediately above the room of Cosimo I in a juxtaposition intended to celebrate the Medici duke’s glory and virtue by likening him to the heavenly deities.

Ceiling fresco showing the young Jupiter brought up by nymphs and suckled by the goat Amalthea

The ceiling fresco decoration shows the infancy of Jupiter (and father of all the gods), whom  Opis (Jupiter’s mother) had brought up in hiding.

Cabinet with Flowers and Birds (late 17th – early 18th century), ebony, inlaid with semi-precious stones and gilted bronze. On permanent loan from the State Art Galleries in Florence (1911)

To prevent Saturn (Jupiter’s father) from devouring him as he had all of his brothers, the young Jupiter is brought up by nymphs and suckled by the goat Amalthea which evokes Capricorn, the zodiac ascendant of Cosimo I. The walls are hung with Florentine tapestries made from cartoons by Stradano (16th century).

Walnut chest (16th century)

The Terrace of Saturn (closed in winter) as well as the fresco (the allegories of the Four Ages of man and the hours of the day allude to the god of Time) on the ceiling are dedicated to Saturn, god of Time, who devoured all his children (except for Jupiter, whose mother Opis used deception to save him) to ensure that they wouldn’t topple him from his throne.

Decorated from 1557 to 1566, it has a fabulous view of Florence, with the Piazzale Michelangelo and the Fortress Belvedere in the southeast. The remains of the Church of San Piero Scheraggio  are also visible. The two panels, with stories of Saturn, evoke episodes from the life of Pope Clement VII (Giulio de ‘Medici), to whom the room beneath is dedicated.  The adjacent Study of Minerva was designed to host the small marble statues in Duke Cosimo I’s collection.

Room of Hercules

At the Room of Hercules (Sala di Ercole), stories of Hercules (the son of Jupiter and the mortal Alcmene who was endowed with superhuman strength) are the subject of paintings on the ceiling (The baby Hercules strangling the snakes Juno, Jupiter’s wife, had placed in his cradle) as well as the tapestries.

Paneled ceiling

Hercules’  countless celebrated heroic deeds, especially the “Twelve Labors,” have inspired the parallel with the room dedicated to valiant mercenary captain Giovanni dalle Bande Nere, Duke Cosimo I’s father, which lies immediately beneath this room.  The room contains a polychrome Madonna and Child and a stipo, an ebony cabinet inlaid with semi-precious stones.

Stipo (cabinet with birds, flowers and fruit compositions, 1660-1680), ebony with marquetry and semi-precious stone inlay. On permanent loan from the State Art Galleries in Florence (1911)

The Terrace of Juno, dedicated to Juno (Jupiter’s wife), was originally an open loggia with columns.  The original design included the construction of a fountain emulating the monochrome painting on the wall, which appears to have been inspired, in its turn, by Andrea del Verrocchio‘s Putto with a Dolphin. It was designed to offer Eleonora of Toledo (Duke Cosimo’s wife) a view of the Santa Croce neighborhood.

Putto with Dolphin (Andrea del Verrocchio)

After the last wing of the palace was built, the loggia, which stood where the undecorated wall stands today, was walled up. The ceiling fresco depicts Juno on a carriage drawn by peacocks plus the Allegory of Abundance and the Allegory of Power.  The walls depicts Juno depriving Jupiter of his lover Io, whom he had disguised by turning her into a cow, Juno turning the nymph Callisto, beloved of Jupiter, into the constellation Ursa Minor and the Fountain with putto.

Room of Ceres and Study of Calliope – Walnut Table with Casket

The Room of Opis, named after the wife of Saturn and the goddess of prosperity, lies immediately above the Room of Lorenzo the Magnificent, whose diplomatic talents were acknowledged and appreciated by numerous monarchs just as Opis was worshipped by numerous peoples. In the center of the ceiling, the goddess appears surrounded by allegories of the seasons and of the months of the year, each shown with its matching star sign.The floor with ducal emblems are terracotta by Santi Buglioni.

Vase on Walnut Stand

The Room of Cybele has a ceiling painted with the Triumph of Cybele and the Four Season, a floor made in 1556 while against the walls are cabinets in tortoise shell and bronze. From the window, we can can see the third courtyard.

Apartments of the Elements: Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza della Signoria, Florence, Italy. Tel: +39 055 276 8325. Open daily, 9 AM – 7 PM (except Thursdays, 9 AM  – 2 PM). Admission: €6.00. Combined ticket with Cappella Brancacci: €8.00.