Balesin Island Club – Balesin Village (Polillo, Quezon)

Balesin Village

Balesin Village, fronted by the best beach on the island, with its long stretch of pristine white sand, is located near the main clubhouse, the Balesin Spa and the Aquatic Sports Center.

Check out “Balesin Island Club

The private beachfront villas

Its private beachfront villas are modeled after the nipa hut, which showcases traditional Filipino architecture, but with all the modern conveniences. It is a short walk to the main swimming pool

The Sala

The Sala, Balesin Village’s signature restaurant, was where we twice had traditional Filipino  (beef or pork tapa, daing na bangus, corned beef or longanisa with egg) or Continental (ham and cheese omelet, bacon and eggs, French toast, pancakes, etc.) breakfast

Daing na Bangus (P610)

Tocilog (P630)

It offers dining in the airconditioned dining room or on the outdoor verandah where you can watch the sunset.  Also offering light afternoon snacks, its menu also includes the famous Balesin binakol (fish fillet in coconut juice) or kinilaw (raw fish marinated in vinegar and spices).

The Relic Bar

The Relic Bar, the oldest existing structure on the island, is a 40-year old cabana (originally a poolside bar) that has since been moved from the Balesin Clubhouse to its current location right by Balesin Sala’s beachfront.

The white sand beach. Offshore is the MY Obsession

Balesin Island Club: Brgy. Balesin, Polillo 4339, Quezon.

Metro Manila Corporate Office: Alphaland Corporation, Alphaland Makati Place, 7232 Ayala Ave. Extn., 1209 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: +63.2.5337.2031 and +63.2.5337.2055 loc 271 to 274 (Reservations). Fax: +63.2.5338.1231,  E-mail: info@alphaland.com.ph.  Website: www.balesin.com.

Balesin Island Club (Polillo, Quezon)

Balesin Island seen from the air. In the foreground is Toscana Village

I’ve already heard about Balesin Island, off the eastern coast of Luzon, since way back in high school from my classmate Anthony Tordesillas whose father, the late Board of Investment head Edgardo Tordesillas, owned the island.  A chance encounter with Anthony after high school elicited an invitation to visit the island with him but, for reasons I can’t recall, wasn’t able to join him.  After Anthony’s passing in 2012, I thought the opportunity to visit this now members-only, private leisure getaway, now called Balesin Island Club, has finally passed me by.

Map of the island

That is, until lately when my wife Grace and her boss Engr. Loy Ganzon (Chairman of the Board of E. Ganzon, Inc.) were invited to a wedding there as godparents.  Jandy, Cheska, Bryan, Kyle and I gladly joined them.

One of the island’s banyan (balete) trees

The island’s name is a combination of two Filipino words – balete (local name for a banyan tree) and asin (local word for “salt”). Now Alphaland Corporation’s flagship project, Balesin Island Club is a 500-hectare, 5 km. long tropical island paradise with 7.3 kms. of pristine white-sand beaches. Around 10% of the island has been developed to create this award-winning luxury resort.

One of the island’s white sand beaches

The island was titled as a single property in 1926 (although the name of the original owner is unknown).  Immediately before and after World War II, the island was owned by the Pelejo and Jugueta families. In 1958, these families sold the island to the San Pablo Oil Company (now making Minola Cooking Oil) owned by 63 year old German expatriate and naturalized Filipino citizen Werner P. Schetelig.  After Schetelig died in 1962, Felipe “Baby” Ysmael (of Ysmael Steel) then bought the island from San Pablo Oil Company.

In 1967, Edgardo Tordesillas, business executive and amateur pilot, acquired the island from Felipe and set about building tourism facilities on the island, first building cottages (to house his family and guests) and, later, a nipa-roofed clubhouse, swimming pool, tennis courts and a 9-hole golf course. He also planted thousands of trees as well as many kinds of ornamental plants.  In 2011, Roberto V. Ongpin, Chairman of Alphaland Corporation (founded in 2007) acquired the island from the Tordedeillas family (Edgardo died in 2005) and developed Balesin Island Club.

Two offshore islands

Balesin, master-planned by EcoPlan of Miami, Florida, USA to optimize ecological sustainability, was meticulously designed to be in perfect harmony with its natural surroundings.  With the enhancement of everything in its environment uppermost in their mind without scrimping on luxurious, top-notch facilities, Alphaland adapted the “Three Pillar Innovation” – People, Planet and Profit.

Water reservoir

They reduced the amount of waste and ensured sustainable development via the island-wide rain water harvesting (runoff from the 1.5-km. airport runway provides over 100 million liters of water annually), 80% water recycling (for landscaping during the summer), a reverse osmosis plant, on-site eco-friendly transportation, organic farming, and alternative sources of energy.

Organic vegetable farm

The island’s coral reefs were also managed for diving and sustainable fishing. During the 14th United Nations World Tourism Organization Awards, the resort nabbed second-place for Innovation and Excellence in Tourism — the first in the history of the Philippines.

Alphaland Aviation Lounge

Our early morning journey to Balesin began at their cool, quiet and comfortable private terminal lounge at Alphaland Aviation Lounge in Manila, arriving there by 5 AM.

Our 68-seater ATR 72-100 at the hangar

After checking in our luggage and relaxing at the lounge while waiting for our flight, we boarded our 68-seater ATR 72-100 and were soon on our way.

On board and on our way….  L-R: Jandy, Engr. Loy Ganzon (Chairman of the Board of E. Ganzon, Inc.), Ms. Mamel Yap (E.G.I.), Bryan and Kyle

Alphaland operates two of these jets plus one 19-seater British Aerospace Jetstream 32 and two 9-seater Cessna 208B Grand Caravans) and took off for the island just before 8 AM.

Landfall at E.L. Tordesillas Airport

We arrived at the island’s aptly named E.L. Tordesillas Airport by 8:20 AM.  At the Welcome Center, we were briefed by the staff on the island’s facilities and, after picking up our luggage, were brought to our respective villas via airconditioned vans.  We stayed 2 nights at Phuket Village and another night at Costa del Sol. After checking in, we had a late breakfast at Balesin Sala in Balesin Village.

Check out “Resort Review: Balesin Island Club – Phuket Village” and “Resort Review: Balesin Island Club – Costa del Sol

Welcome Center

The beauty of the island was a world completely unto itself, with seven theme villages patterned and inspired from the most alluring, world-class luxury beach destinations where everything, from the architecture, interior design, landscaping and food, is authentically recreated – Balinese for Bali Village, Greek for Mykonos Village, French (Riviera) for St. Tropez Village, Spanish for Costa del Sol, Filipino at Balesin Village, Italian (Tuscany) at Toscana Village and Thai for Phuket Village.

Check out “Balesin Island Club – Bali Village,” “Balesin Island Club – Costa del Sol,” “Balesin Island Club – Mykonos Village,” “Balesin Island Club – St. Tropez Village,” “Balesin Island Club – Balesin Village” and “Balesin Island Club – Toscana Village

The Clubhouse

The Clubhouse has a reception area, a cigar lounge where you can light up a fine cigar (Tabacalera Cigar Divan),  gaming room (billiards, table tennis, a Wii console), a 600 sq.m. function area, a fully equipped conference room (for large gatherings and private meetings), seven 2-bedroom unit Clubhouse Suites, KTV rooms (Mike’s and Rannie’s), souvenir shop, music lounge, view deck, veranda, library, mahjong and poker room, internet gaming/business center, salon and barber shop, children’s indoor playroom, screening room, locker rooms, boutique and medical clinic.

The Clubhouse Lounge

It also has a number of bars (Lobby Bar, Coral Bar) and restaurants – Sakura Japanese Restaurant  (for sushi and teppanyaki dishes), the Dining Room, Balesin Dining Room and Han Gang Restaurant plus private dining rooms (Michelle’s and Anna’s).

Reception Area at Clubhouse

Outside are exquisitely designed swimming pools  (adult and kiddie) and 3 whirlpools, bars and private beach cabanas.    The Aquatic Sports Center offers waterskiing, kayaking, windsurfing, snorkeling, wakeboarding, scuba diving, stand-up paddle boarding, boat rentals, deep sea fishing, Hobie Cat sailing, Frisbees, volleyball and paraw sailing.

The clubhouse’s swimming pool

Docked offshore for sunset cruises is Balesin’s new super yacht, the M/Y Obsessions, a sleek, 130-foot, aluminum-hull  vessel built by Heesen Yachts in the Netherlands.  Its decadent interiors were designed by Ann Van Der Kamp and Diaship, using sumptuous materials from Gianni Versace’s luxury Italian label.

The M/Y Obsessions

On our second day, after breakfast Jandy and I made a tour around the island. Aside from the airconditioned vans, jeepneys and buses, the resort also uses electric golf carts to go around the island to reduce its carbon footprints.

One of the jeepneys that transports guest around the island

We visited the Ifugao Village where an entire community of Ifugao woodcarvers lived.  The furniture on the island, both modern and traditional, was made by them and they also produce art pieces, sculpture as well as souvenir items for sale to visitors.

Jandy in front of the Ifugao Camp

We also visited the Sports Center with its fully-equipped gym, badminton courts, basketball court, tennis courts, martial arts studio, airsoft target shooting range, soccer field, running track, rock climbing wall, table tennis and refreshment bars.

Sports Center

A fenced part of the jungle houses tactical formations for paintball and war games, a stable for Segways, and Knockerballs. There’s also horse riding stables, an archery range, golf driving range and putting green.

Soccer Field

The island is also home to the Aegle Wellness Center, a state-of-the-art integrative health & wellness center nominated as Medi-Spa of the Year in the 2017 Asia Spa Awards.  It is the only place in the Philippines, and among the few in Asia, that offers thalassotherapy, a medical treatment for weight loss and detoxification that makes use of the components of seawater.

Pony Paddock

On our third day, scheduled afternoon tour, this time via an airconditioned bus, took us around the island, visiting each of the aforementioned 7 themed villages.

The Greek-themed Mykonos Village

Toscana Village

The French Riviera-inspired St. Tropez

Balesin Village

We also visited the Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farm where seafood and organic produce, for the restaurants, are cultivated at specially made fish pens and greenhouses, respectively.

Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farms

Bryan, Kyle and Cheska at the Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farms

At the Aviary (a joint undertaking of Balesin Island Club and the Tobiano family), we had intimate encounters with some exotic birds.

The Aviary

These include blue and gold macaw (Ara ararauna), African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus), Victoria crown pigeon (Goura victoria), scarlet macao (Ara macao), Indian blue peacock (Pavo cristatus), among others.

The author with a pigeon

It is also home to a pair of African spurred tortoises (Centrochelys sulcata) and rabbits.

The open-air chapel

The open-aired Chapel across the latter, with amphitheater-like seating and wooden altar, was where the wedding took place.  We also heard mass here.

The rustic chapel interior

The wedding reception was held at The Salon, the elegant function hall which accommodates up to 350 guests for sit-down banquets, at the majestic Balesin Royal Villa, facing Lamon Bay and its gorgeous sunset.  It also has an a bar facility, a 10-person elevator for easy access to the upper and lower floors from

Balesin Royal Villa

The Salon, state-of-the-art karaoke room as well as billiard and foosball tables.  The ten 120 sq.m. Royal suites located on the ground floor, each have a terrace providing direct access to the 2 swimming pools (with jet bubblers and 4 sunning decks) and private, white-sand beach.

Entrance to Balesin Royal Villas

The four 317 sq.m. Maharlika suites, on the upper level, have their own living area, terrace, and outdoor jacuzzi. All Balesin Royal Villa suites have magnificent views of the sea, and accommodate up to 4 people each.

Fish Fun

As we just stayed on the island for three days, we didn’t get to experience all the different cuisine the island had to offer but we did get to try breakfast at Balesin Sala (Balesin Village) and the Main Clubhouse (the centerpiece of the resort together with the state-of-the-art wellness facility), Spanish cuisine for lunch at Casa Grande (Costa del Sol) and, for dinner, Thai cuisine at Sawadee (Phuket Village) and Japanese cuisine at Sakura (Main Clubhouse).

Balesin Sports Bar

Bryan playing billiards at the Sports Bar

Sakura, the club’s most popular restaurant, is located inside the main clubhouse.  Led by chef Edo-san, it houses a teppanyaki counter and sushi bar, and serves everything from soba to tempura to prime steak.  Favorites include the much sought-after popped rice starter with its poetic presentation, the Edo-san maki of eel, cream cheese, avocado, tobiko and topped with baked crab, the spider roll, sea bass with miso, beef usuyaki, and the beef and seafood teppanyaki with fried rice.

Balesin Island Club: Brgy. Balesin, Polillo 4339, Quezon.

Metro Manila Corporate Office: Alphaland CorporationAlphaland Makati Place, 7232 Ayala Ave. Extn., 1209 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: +63.2.5337.2031 and +63.2.5337.2055 loc 271 to 274 (Reservations). Fax: +63.2.5338.1231,  E-mail: info@alphaland.com.ph. Website: www.balesin.com.

10,000 Roses Café (Cordova, Cebu)

10,000 Roses Cafe

Part of One Central Hotel & Suites-sponsored tour of Cebu City

The 10,000 Roses Café, opened last February 6, 2017, is one of Cebu’s newest craze.  It has a stunning garden in the open area of the facility that are “planted” with 10,000 artificial white roses that are filled with LED lights, the first in the Philippines.

About 3 feet tall, these roses dance with the sea breeze during day time.   Around 6 PM every night, they are lit and transformed into magical lights that glow at night. That’s why it’s best to go there before sunset until closing time.  Because of its unique theme, it instantly became a hit and is, undeniably, the most popular and most sought-after café.

Cordova Tourism Center

Lantaw Floating Restaurant

Located at the end of Cordova Tourism Center, just next to Lantaw Floating Restaurant, many visitors frequent the place to have their pictures taken in a different kind of setting.  It is owned by interior designer Miguel Cho who was inspired by the more than 25,000 LED Roses of the famous Dongdaemum Design Plaza in Seoul, South Korea.

View of the 10,000 Roses from the Cafe Viewdeck

A perfect spot for photographers, the café, situated on a reclaimed wharf property, has a viewing deck, surrounded by glass walls, that offers an amazing view of Mactan Island, the skyline of Cebu City, the neighboring cities and municipalities, the island’s mountain range, the sea and, of course, the roses.

10,000 Roses Cafe

The coffee shop and restaurant serves drinks, pasta, panini, sandwiches, potato fries, nachos with salsa, cheese plate, fruits plate, salad and varieties of coffee, teas and beer.  The ground floor has a modest indoor dining area, with modern and stylish seating, which can accommodate 20 to 25 customers.  The alfresco dining area can accommodate additional 40 to 60 customers.

Indoor Dining Area

Al fresco dining area

The 10,000 Roses Café: Brgy. Day-as, Cordova, Cebu.  Tel: (032) 496 7023. Open daily, 10:30AM to 11PM. Admission: P20/person.

One Central Hotel & Suites: Cor. Sanciangko and Leon Kilat St., Cebu City 6000, Cebu.  Tel: (+6332) 888-8000, 888-8111 and 888-8168.  E-mail: info@onecentralhotel.com. Website: www.onecentralhotel.com.

Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station (Japan)

The partially cloud-shrouded Mt. Fuji

Our  third day in Tokyo was to be spent on a booked Mt. Fuji/Hakone Day Tour. After breakfast at our hotel, we walked to the nearby Akasaka Excel Hotel. Here, we as well as other tour joiners were met by Mr. Hashimoto, our tour guide.  Once all guests were accounted for, we all boarded  our Gray Line Tour Bus and were soon on our way.

Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station

The 138.4-km. drive from Tokyo to our destination, the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station (also known as Yoshidaguchi 5th Station or Kawaguchiko 5th Station), normally took just a little over two hours and 30 mins. but, it being a weekend (Saturday), traffic was heavy along the way.

Jandy

The Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station is the most popular of the four 5th stations on Mount Fuji and the best developed and easiest to access by public transportation from Tokyo. The only 5th Station with daily bus service during most of the year, it is accessible almost year round, snow conditions permitting.

Gogoen Resthouse

The station is reached by the Subaru Line, a scenic toll road up Mount Fuji‘s lower northern slopes that begins in Kawaguchiko Town. In times of heavy snow in winter, it may temporarily get partially closed.

It lies at approximately the halfway point of the Yoshida Trail, which leads from Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine at the mountain’s base to the summit of Mount Fuji.

During the majority of the climbing season (July 10 to September 10), the road is closed to private vehicles and shuttle buses can only operate between designated parking lots at the base of the mountain and the 5th station.

Statue of young Japanese men pointing to the summit at Fuji

During the long drive, we had some good views of the 3,776 m. (12,388 ft.) high Mt. Fuji, the highest mountain in Japan.  The peak (not snow clad as it was autumn), however, was partially obscured by clouds.

We arrived at the 5th Station by 12:30 PM. The Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station had parking lots, coin lockers and a few restaurants and shops.

At 2,305 m. (7,546 ft.) above sea level, the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station is a popular spot even for those who are not intent on climbing the mountain as it offers a commanding view of the Fuji Five Lakes area below.

Start of the Yoshida Trail up the mountain

The Komitake Shrine, behind the shops, has an observation point with unobstructed views of Fujiyoshida City and Lake Yamanaka.

Being that high up the mountain, it was bitingly cold when we alighted our bus.  Here, we used their restrooms (for a fee), bought souvenirs and bought some Japanese-style pancakes (250 yen each) which were incredibly light and super fluffy (because of the whipped egg whites) and were available with cream cheese and custard cheese fillings.

The interior of a well-stocked Japanese store

For departing climbers, it is their last chance to stock up on supplies and purchase hiking sticks, snacks, bottles of water and oxygen, at reasonable prices (though also available along the trail, prices increase as you climb higher), before they head out.

The stall selling Japanese-style pancakes

Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station: Narusawa, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi Prefecture

The Moshulu (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA)

Moshulu

After our visit to the Independence Seaport Museum and the museum ships USS Olympia and USS Becuna, Jandy and I, our curiosity piqued, hopped over to the adjacent Moshulu which was also docked at Penn’s Landing.  We discovered it was a floating restaurant and, as it wasn’t officially opened yet (it opens at 5 PM), asked permission if we could explore this  four-masted steel barque, a first for both of us.

Check out “Independence Seaport Museum,” “Independence Seaport Museum – USS Olympia” and “Independence Seaport Museum – USS Becuna

We weren’t here to try out its food but the Moshulu’s dining rooms and outdoor decks do take full advantage of the unparalleled views of the city skyline and waterfront.

The author at the upper deck of the Moshulu

Jandy

Here are some interesting trivia regarding this ship:

  • The Moshulu is the largest remaining original windjammer in the world. Whilst windjammers exist and sail the seas to this day, the last windjammer carrying cargo was the Peruvian Omega (ex Drumcliff) which was in use until her loss in 1958.
  • She was built by William Hamilton and Company, on the River Clyde in Scotland and, along with her sister ship Hans, was one of the last four-masted steel barques to be built on the river (Archibald Russell was launched in 1905).
  • Moshulu is the world’s oldest and largest square rigged sailing vessel still afloat.
  • She is the only restaurant venue on a tall ship in the world.
  • The Moshulu was originally named Kurtafter Dr. Kurt Siemers, director-general and president of H. J. Siemers & Co, a Hamburg shipping company.
  • She was built at a cost of £36,000.
  • The Moshulu was built for G. H. J. Siemers & Co. and originally used in the nitrate trade.
  • Moshulu was made famous by the books of famous travel writer  Eric Newby who, at the age of 18, was apprenticed aboard the Moshulu, joining the ship in Belfast in 1938. The journey was documented in Newby’s books The Last Grain Race (1956, refers to the last grain race before the outbreak of World War II) and Learning the Ropes: An Apprentice in the Last of the Windjammers (1999, contains more than 150 of the photographs Newby took while aboard).
  • Moshulu’s route to Australia took her around Cape Horn a remarkable 54 times without incident.
  • On June 10, 1939, Moshulu wins the very last race of square-rigged sailing ships between Australia and Europe while carrying 59,000 bags of grain, weighing 4875 tons with a record speed of 16 knots in 91 days (15,000 miles) from Australia to Queenstown Cobh Ireland, a faster passage than that of any of the other sailing ships making similar passages that year.
  • Its restaurant has gained recognition as an award winning, AAA 4 Diamond rated Restaurant, Bar and Deck.

The Moshulu had the following general characteristics:

  • Length: 121 m. (396 ft., overall), 109 m. (359 ft., on deck), 102.2 m. (33.5.3 ft., between perpendiculars)
  • Beam: 14.3 m. (46.9 ft.)
  • Height: 65 m. (212 ft., keel to masthead truck), 56 m. (185 ft., main deck to masthead truck)
  • Draft: 7.4 m. (24.3 ft.) at 5,300 tons
  • Depth: 8.5 m. (28 ft., depth molded)
  • Depth of Hold: 8.1 m. (26.6 ft.)
  • Displacement: 7,000 ts (1,700 ts ship + 5,300 ts cargo)
  • Sail Plan: 180 m²; 34 sails: 18 square sails, 3 spankers, 13 staysails
  • Depths: 2 continuous steel decks, poop, midship bridge and forecastle decks
  • Installed Power: no auxiliary propulsion; donkey enginefor sail winches, steam rudder
  • Propulsion: wind
  • Highest Recorded Speed: 17 knots(31 kms./hr.)
  • Complement: 35 crew (maximum)
  • Crew: 33 (captain, 1st & 2nd mate, 1 steward, 29 able seamen)[
  • Boats & landing craft carried: 4 lifeboats

Here’s a timeline of the ship’s history:

  • On April 18, 1904, the Kurt was launched with Captain Christian Schütt as her first master.
  • Between 1904 and 1914, under German ownership, Kurt shipped coal from Wales to South America, nitrate from Chile to Germany, coal from Australia to Chile, and coke and patent fuel from Germany to Santa RosalíaMexico.
  • In 1908, under the command of Captain Wolfgang H. G. Tönissen, she made a fast voyage from Newcastle, Australia, to Valparaíso with a cargo of coal in 31 days.
  • In 1914, upon the outbreak of World War I, Kurt was sailed to Oregon, under the command of Captain Tönissen, then laid up in Astoria.
  • In 1917, when the United States entered the war, she was seized as prize booty, kept in commission and  temporarily renamed the Dreadnought (“one who fears nothing”) but, as there was already a sailing ship of that name registered in the US, she was renamed the Moshulu (which had the same meaning in the Seneca language) by Edith Wilson, the First Lady of the United States and wife of President Woodrow Wilson (who was of Indian extraction herself).
  • Between 1917 and 1920, Moshulu was owned by the U.S. Shipping Board and carried wool and chrome between North America, Manila and Australia.
  • From 1920 to 1922, it was owned by the Moshulu Navigation Co. (Charles Nelson & Co., a lumber firm) of San Francisco
  • In 1922, Moshulu was sold to James Tyson of San Francisco and, that same year, was repurchased by Charles Nelson.
  • From 1920 to 1928, the big four-masted barque ran in the timber trade along the U.S. west coast to Australia and South Africa.
  • In 1928, after her last timber run to Melbourne and Geelong, Australia, Moshulu was laid up in Los Angeles.
  • Later on, she was kept in places in or near SeattleWashingtonLake Union, Winslow on (Puget Sound), and Esquimaltin British ColumbiaCanada 190 kms. (100 nautical miles) northwest of Seattle.
  • In 1935, the Moshulu was bought for $12,000 by Gustaf Erikson of Finland, a successful ship owner of 25 vessels, 11 four-masted barque windjammers, who had found profits in bringing grain from Australia.
  • On March 14, 1935, when the contract was signed, Captain Gunnar Boman took over the ship and sailed Moshulu to Port Victoria. Gustaf Erikson had her operate in the grain trade from Australia to Europe. During the period of Erikson ownership the working language of the ship was Swedish, even though it sailed under the Finnish flag. The ship’s home port at the time, Mariehamn, is in the Swedish-speaking Åland Islandsof Finland.
  • At the end of 1938, the ship left Belfast, under the command of Captain Mikael Sjögren, sailing to Port Lincoln, in South Australia, with a load of ballast stone, arriving there in 82 days, a good passage for a windjammer. In Port Victoria, Moshulu took 4,875 tons of bagged grain on board and began her return voyage to Ireland. She had a crew of 33, which included two Americans, J. Ferrell Colton of Molokai, Hawaii (publisher of “Windjammer Significant”) and John W. Albright of Long Beach, California (who would become a square rigged ship captain himself).
  • On June 10, 1939, Moshulu arrives in Queenstown (Cobh, Ireland) winning the very last race of square-rigged sailing ships between Australia and Europe.
  • In November 1942, when she returned to KristiansandNorway, again under the command of Captain Mikael Sjögren and with a cargo of wheat from Buenos Aires, the ship was seized by the Germans and, step-by-step, stripped of her mast and spars.
  • in 1947, after breaking her mooring and capsizing in a storm close to shore at a beach in Østervik near Narvik,  she was demasted by a salvaging company
  • On July 1948, she was re-erected, stabilized and towed to Bergen. The ship’s hull was sold to Trygve Sommerfeldt of Oslo.
  • A few months later, the ship was transferred to Sweden
  • From 1948 to 1952, she was used as a grain store in Stockholm.
  • She was then sold to the German ship owner Heinz Schliewen, who wanted to put her back to use under the name Oplagas, a merchant marine training ship carrying cargo. Schliewen already used the four-masted steel barques Pamir and Passat (both former Flying P-Liners) for that purpose, but before Moshulu was re-rigged, Schliewen went into bankruptcy.
  • In 1953 Moshulu was sold to the Swedish Farmers’ State Union (Svenska Lantmännens Riksförbund) of Stockholm
  • Beginning on November 16, 1953, she was used as a floating warehouse.
  • In 1961, the FinnishState Granary bought the ship for 3,200 tons of Russian rye.  She was towed to a small and picturesque bay in Naantali, a town near Turku, and she continued to be used as a grain warehouse.
  • In 1970, the ship was bought by David Tallichet of the American Specialty Restaurants Corporation, who rigged her out in Scheveningen, Netherlands with machine (not hand) welded masts, yards, standing rigging and lines, of lighter materials. Other sources have it that The Walt Disney Company bought the ship but soon transferred it to the American “Specialty Restaurants Corporation.”
  • In 1974, she was towed to South Street Seaport, New York City.
  • In 1975, the Moshulu was opened as a restaurant
  • In 1989, the she closed after being damaged by a four-alarm fire.
  • In 1994, the Moshulu was purchased by HMS Ventures, Inc. and, under Mrs. Dodo Hamilton of the Campbell’s Soup family, was painstakingly restored in Camden to her original glory
  • In 1996, it was docked at Pier 34 on Philadelphia’s waterfront and opened as a restaurant on the Delaware River.
  • In 2002, the Moshulu was relocated to its current location under restaurateur Martin Grims.
  • On May 2003, its current owners, SCC Restaurants LLC, reopened the restaurant. 

Reception

The Moshulu was featured in the following movies:

Moshulu: Penn’s Landing, 401 S. Columbus Blvd., Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19106 (Click here for map). Tel: 215.923.2500. Fax: 215.829.1604.  E-mail: info@moshulu.com.  Website: www.moshulu.com. Open Mondays– Thursdays, 5 to 9 PM; Fridays & Saturdays, 5 to 10PM; Sundays 10AM to 2:30PM and 5 to 9PM.

Daily Bread Organic Farm and Resort (Bustos, Bulacan)

Daily Bread Organic Farm and Resort

AAP’s drive tour caravan also highlights farm tourism, the newest trend in travel, moving around the various farms near Metro Manila to explore, immerse in and experience the culture of a farm. From the East West Seed Farm, the caravan headed to the 3.1-hectare Daily Bread Organic Farm in Bustos for a sumptuous lunch at their poolside restaurant.

Check out “East West Seed Farm

 

The poolside restaurant

This organic farm is the brainchild of Ms. Luzviminda “Baby” Tancangco, the first non-lawyer and woman commissioner of the Philippine Commission on Elections (COMELEC) and also its first female acting chairman (1998–1999).  Now retired since 2004, she is now an organic farm, health and wellness advocate.

Fresh lumpia

Being an advocate of healthy living and organically grown foods, she has put up facilities for relaxation, team building activities, and growing areas for vegetables, native pigs and other small animals like chickens and rabbits. Today, her organic farm is known for their mushroom culture as well as vermi composting, ornamental plant production, herbal plants, native pigs and other poultry products which uses the organic way of caring them.

Swimming pool

The center had a library, restaurant, greenhouse, swimming pools, clubhouse, conference area and several cottages which reflect several different architectural styles. The farm resort had been featured in several television shows and is an ideal venue for weddings and convention.

The organic restaurant, along the highway, caters to health-conscious customers. The income from the restaurant is used to finance further development of the organic farm. Here, we feasted on lumpiang sariwa (fresh vegetable roll), buko pandan and corn coffee, among others.

Baby has developed a network of suppliers of organically grown farm produce (mushrooms, various vegetables, turmeric powder, coffee from Sagada, honey from the wild, coco sugar, rice, organic wines, etc.). A consolidator of various organic products, she has helped small farmers increase their incomes. For example, the Dumagats are making money from the turmeric they supply to the organic restaurant and store.

Daily Bread Organic Farm and Resort: Don Claro Santos St., Brgy. Bonga Menor, Bustos. Mobile number: (0999) 883- 0779 (Ms. Anna  Katrina D.C. Tangcanco). Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/DailyBreadOrganicFarm/?rf=104503639662998. Coordinates: 14.9581, 120.918.

Automobile Association Philippines (AAP): 28 EDSA, Greenhills, San Juan City.  Tel: (632) 655-5889.  Fax: (632) 655-1878.  E-mail: info@aap.org.ph. Website: www.aap.org.ph.

The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show (Austria)

The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show

For our first night in Salzburg, Grace, Manny, Jandy, Cheska, Kyle and I proceeded to Sternbrau Restaurant, at the old heart of the city (next to the famous “Getreidegasse” shopping street), to watch the amazing “Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show,” (Check out video here) a daily show & dinner event with 74 seats available.

Sternbrau Restaurant

The most successful dinner show in Salzburg, it has, for 24 consecutive years, been mesmerizing and entertaining Salzburg visitors from all around the world with its harmonic blending of songs from The Sound of Music movie, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, operettas and other excerpts of Salzburg’s musical past.

Cheska, Kyle and Grace at the entrance of the restaurant

In 1991, three entrepreneurs – Franz Langer (music director), Martin Uitz (former CEO of Salzburg Land Tourism) and Stefan Herzl (CEO of Panorama Tours) – created the Sound of Music Dinner Show (as it was called back then), a dinner concert with live on-stage performance of The Sound of Music compositions combined with an Austrian dinner. It was staged daily, from May till October, in the big hall of the Salzburger Stieglkeller underneath the famous Hohensalzburg Castle.

In 2000, the dinner concert moved, from the Stieglkeller, to the Sternbräu with Franz Langer updating the program, featuring more compositions of W.A. Mozart and Salzburg‘s operettas, and renaming the daily event to “The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show.”  Even a stepdaughter of Maria von Trapp, also called Maria, used to visit the show several times.

In 2014, Roman Forisch took over from Franz Langer (since 1997 sole owner of the show) as new manager and relocated “The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show” to the Festungssaal (Fortress Hall) on the first floor of the K+K Restaurants am Waagplatz, a historical landmarked building next to the famous Salzburg Cathedral and right in the middle of the historic district of Salzburg.

Festungssaal (Fortress Hall)

The building, one of the oldest sites in Salzburg, was a brewery in the Middle Ages first mentioned in 1542.  Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart liked to come here regularly, especially in 1777. At the beginning of 2013, the building was restored, modernized and, after almost two years, re-opened as a restaurant in 2014.

Soup of the Day

Viennese-style Schnitzel with Noodles

The move to this historical building added a final piece to the cultural tourism highlight, providing the makings of a truly wonderful evening with its ideal combination of a splendid, high class culinary experience and a comfortable and atmospheric  Medieval location.

Roast Pork with Dumpling and Cabbage Salad with Bacon

Before the show, a dinner is served at 7.30 PM (Doors open at 7 PM).  We enjoyed a traditional Viennese 3-course meal, in a candlelit setting, prepared by chef de cuisine Michael Pratter and his team.  It featured a starter (Soup of the Day), a choice of white or red meat (Roast Pork with dumpling and cabbage salad with bacon or Vienna-style Schnitzel with Noodles) and their famous homemade Grandma’s Apple Strudel with Whipped Cream for dessert.

Grandma’s Apple Strudel with Whipped Cream

The one-and-a-half-hour show began at 8.30 PM at a stage with an area of about 10 square meters, right in front of the dinner tables. The “Sound of Salzburg Show” features a group of 4 singers (2 female and 2 male), all trained artists from all over the world, and 1 female pianist.

The four performers and the pianist (at right)

On stage, they performed a program which includes the greatest hits of the aforementioned The Sound of Music musical (Richard Rodgers & Oscar Hammerstein) and  Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart as well as Salzburg‘s operettas.   For the Sound of Music, they performed “The Sound of Music (song),” “Do-Re-Mi,” “Do-Re-Mi (Reprise),” “Do-Re-Mi (Fuge),” “Climb Ev’ry Mountain,” “Maria,” “My Favorite Things,” “Lonely Goatherd,” “Laendler Tanz,” “Edelweiss” and “So Long, Farewell.”

The two lady performers dressed up as nuns

The Mozart repertoire consisted of “Eine Kleine Nachtmusik,” “Ronda Alla Turca,” “Papageno Arie (Zauberflöte),” “Pa-Pa Duett (Zauberflöte),” “Vedrai Carino Arie (Don Giovanni)” and a “Minuet from Don Giovanni.”

Salzburg operettas featured, with live piano accompaniment, were Ralph Benatzky’s “Regenlied (Im weißen Rößl),” “Im Salzkammergut, da kammer gut (Im weißen Rößl)” and “Im weißen Rößl am Wolfgangsee (Im weißen Rößl); Fred Raymond’s “Saison in Salzburg (Saison in Salzburg)” and  Franz Lehar’s “Dein ist mein ganzes Herz (Das Land des Lächelns)” and “Lippen Schweigen (Die lustige Witwe).”  A folk song, Und jetzt gang i ans Petersbruennele, was also featured. 

Cheska dancing with a male performer

The show thus featured 5 different composers who each have their own style and lived in various parts of the musical history.  Thus, the job of the singers (who perform in 15 countries around the world as musical ambassadors for Austria) of the Sound of Salzburg show wasn’t easy as every single song they sang was supposed to be sung in the right way, in the way the composer intended.

They also needed to have a broad understanding of music to perform every one of them, know what the songs were actually about as well as to learn them by heart. In short, they have to live the song.

The real Maria von Trapp

The show also included an 8-minute, really interesting film clip of an interview from the real Maria von Trapp. The video, not the best quality, was from the 1980’s but you can see and hear everything you need to understand the real von Trapp story behind the movie.

Manny, on stage, serenaded by a lady performer

The dinner side of the show was great and the show itself was very entertaining.  The show was in English so we didn’t have to worry about not understanding anything. There were a couple of songs sung in German but we didn’t need to understand German to enjoy the tunes.  The performers also did a little audience participation.  Manny was pulled on stage, seated and serenaded by a lady singer.

Kyle (center) on stage with performers and other members of the audience

The male singers also grabbed a few ladies from the crowd (including my daughter Cheska) and taught them how to dance a traditional Viennese dance. Some kids (including my grandson Kyle) also joined the performers on stage. If you love “The Sound of Music” or simply just love Austrian music and culture, you would have a great night at the “Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show.” I definitely would recommend it. 

Kyle (second from right) with the performers

Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show: Sternbräu Restaurant, Griesgasse 23 5020 Salzburg. Tel: +43 660 5020520 and +43 699 10248666.  E-mail: office@soundofsalzburg.info . Website: www.soundofsalzburg.info. Daily show times (from mid May to mid October): 7 – 10 PM (dinner & show) and 8:30 – 10 PM (show only). Admission: € 39 (adults), € 32 (Salzburg Card & Students), € 20 (children 7-14 years of age) and free for children under the age of 7 (accompanied by an adult). Click here to book tickets online)

Guests can choose between three different 3-course menus (drinks not included) or our deluxe 4-course menu with premier seating (with drinks, the show and a CD). Menu choices for vegetarians and seafood lovers are available on request.  Food and beverages must be paid directly at the restaurant.

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

We arrived at the resort by 9 AM and we all offered a relaxing cold face towel and a welcome drink made with fresh cucumber and pineapple.  The very professional, very visible and thoughtful Mike Villegas, the Resident Manager, was on hand to see to it that the needs of guests like us were attended to.

Sheridan Beach Resort

Sheridan Beach Resort and its signature swimming pool

The 95-room Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa, the only luxury resort in the Sabang area on the west coast of Palawan, was built in 2010 and was developed and operated by Jeco Development Corp.  President Benigno “Noynoy” Aquino III stayed here last February 9, 2011.

Front Desk

Front Desk

This “green” resort is among the seven honored for promoting energy efficiency and renewable energy at the recently concluded Energy Smart Forum organized by the European Chamber of Commerce of the Philippines (ECCP).

Wind turbines

Wind turbines

Wind turbines cover about 70 to 80% of Sheridan’s electricity requirements. During rainy days or when the solar plant cannot produce or when there is scarce wind to power the wind turbines, the resort has back-up generators.

Solar panels

Solar panels

The resort also has a catch basin for rainwater and a water recycling system in place. They also use LED lighting and their airconditioners use inverters. They also have green landscape features and architecture, so they don’t use air-conditioning in our hallways.

De Luxe Room

De Luxe Pool View Room

We were assigned to spacious and modern De Luxe Pool View rooms located at the second floor.  With an area of 30 sq. m., Minimalist-style our guestrooms were tastefully furnished and decorated in a contemporary Asian style with a touch of local culture.

De Luxe Suite (2)

All have split-type airconditioners, comfortable beds, soft, fluffy pillows, a spacious private ensuite bathroom with hot and cold shower, flat screen cable TV with a DVD player, well-stocked minibar, hair dryer, in-room safe, tea and coffee making facility plus rubber slippers, bathrobes, complimentary bottled water and a large umbrella for the use of guests.  The very nice balcony, from which we enjoyed a panoramic view of the large swimming pool, has a retractable aluminum clothes rack where you can hang your wet clothes and towels.

Sabang Room

Sabang Room

Sabang Room Bath

Sabang Room Bath

There are also 30 sq.m. Superior and De Luxe Mountain View Rooms, the 46 sq. m. Palawan and Sabang Rooms and the 76 sq. m. Junior Suite and Sheridan Suite.  The suites and the Palawan and Sabang Rooms have bathtubs.  For groups and families, there are 13 connecting rooms in the De Luxe category.

Chaise lounges by the pool

Chaise lounges by the pool

Its big, 340 ft. (104 m.) long, architecturally interesting infinity swimming pool, said to be the largest in Palawan, is located tight smacked in the center of the entire establishment.  Open 9 AM to 9 PM, it has a constant depth of 4 ft. throughout its length and is separated into two distinct sections.

Childrens pool

Childrens pool

Here, you can play water basketball. Chaise lounges are actually partly submerged at the pool. The swim up Sip n’ Dip Bar (open till 12 midnight) is located in the middle while 3 jacuzzis are located on the sides.

Jacuzzis

Jacuzzis

There are plenty of dedicated lifeguards on duty here (and the beach) as well as pool attendants. A small but excellent outdoor workout gym, with great, state-of-the-art Sports Art Fitness equipment and weights, overlooks the pool.

Outdoor gym

Outdoor gym

The resort also has a 24-hour, beachfront restaurant (South Sea Restaurant), coffee shop, a bar/lounge by the beach (Blue Bar), kiddie swimming pool, 24-hour front desk, convention center, smoking area, shared lounge/TV area, children’s playground, sauna, a sports bar with darts, billiards, table tennis and a giant chess board game, outdoor sports (Segway, beach bikes, ATV rides), barbecue facilities, library near the lobby, game room, watersport facilities (surfboards, wakeboards, kayaks, body board, etc.) and business center. The first-rate, service-oriented staff, who spoke very good English, were really helpful, very nice and extremely polite and friendly.

Convention Center

Convention Center

Sports bar

Sports bar

The gorgeous, well maintained, gradually sloping, relatively quiet, palm-fringed and sugary fine but not so white Sabang Beach has shallow, crystal clear water but is not ideal for snorkeling or diving. Beware of the undertow at the 6-ft. deep level.

Beach Area

Beach Area

The lifeguards use their whistles or bullhorns to call your attention if you venture beyond the safe zone. Facing the beach are benches, sundeck chairs, small tables and cozy, woven reed hammocks under shady coconut trees where we can sit or lie down, nap, read or listen to the waves crashing around you.

The author relaxing by the beach

The author relaxing by the beach

The resort also offers 24-hour room service, laundry service, shuttle, safety deposit boxes, luggage area, car rental, airport transfer, tours, bicycle rental, babysitting, currency exchange, island hopping and express check-in/check-out.  Wi-fi is offered in public areas (lobby and restaurant) but some rooms, mine included, was within reach of wi-fi.

Nature Spa Village

Nature Spa Village

Come evening of my second day at the resort, after a hectic day of island hopping, snorkelling and ziplining,I availed of the signature Sheridan hilot massage at the intimate Sheridan Nature Spa Village.  Truly healing and relaxing.

Nature Spa Village - Interior

Nature Spa Village – Interior

This resort is just s a stone’s throw away (10-min. walk) from the wharf where boats take you to the Subterranean Underground River. Also nearby is the 800 m. long Sabang X zipline (PhP550/pax) where you zip over the sea.  About 15-20 mins away from the resort is Ugong Rock and the mangroves. It’s also an 1.5 hr drive to Honda Bay. Sabang Waterfalls is about a 2-hour roundtrip trek through a very rocky beach.

All Terrain Vehicles

All Terrain Vehicles

A pair of Xibeihu Amphibious Motorboats

A pair of Xibeihu Amphibious Motorboats

The physical beauty and magnificent sweeping vistas of the surrounding, lush green and uniquely shaped mountains, which serves as the resort’s beautiful backdrop, truly made me feel like I was in paradise. Truly, a a mystical, beautiful vacation hideaway in Palawan where heaven and earth meet …..

Sunset at Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa

Sunset at Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website:www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

New Year Countdown at the Manila InterContinental (Makati City)

Fireworks (12)

For the third time around (the first was in the iconic Manila Hotel, followed by the Dusit Hotel), my family and I decided to spend New Year’s Eve in a hotel and, this time around, we chose to stay at the nearby InterContinental Manila (colloquially Intercon/ICM).  This 5-star InterContinental hotel, part of the longest operating international chain hotel in the Philippines, holds the distinction of being the first 5-star deluxe hotel in Makati and the second InterContinental hotel to open in Asia.

InterContinental Manila Hotel

InterContinental Manila Hotel

Designed by my uncle, the late National Artist Leandro Locsin, this 14-storey landmark hotel opened on April 11, 1969 as part of the overall redevelopment plan for Makati.It is owned by Ayala Land Hotels and Resorts Corp., Ayala Land’s wholly owned subsidiary. Conveniently located within Ayala Center (Makati Commercial Center years before), opposite the Glorietta, it is walking distance to 5 big shopping malls (SM, Rustans, Landmark, etc.), great restaurants, an MRT-3 station (Ayala Station) and cinemas. It still exudes the charm and elegant atmosphere of the old Manila I am familiar with.

Cafe Jeepney

Cafe Jeepney

 This old but well-maintained hotel has won numerous awards such as the “Best Hotel Kikay Festival” for “Festival Gastronomique le Kikay Bleu” in 1982 and 1983; the Green Globe Award for Outstanding Environmental Programs in 1998; “Outstanding in Community Involvement for Southern Asia” among InterContinental hotels in 2002; and the TTG (Travel Trade Gazette) Travel Awards as the “Best City Hotel” in 2010, 2011 and 2013.

Hotel Lobby

Hotel Lobby

In 1997, the hotel also placed first in Asia Pacific and third in the world in the D’Richey Report and, in 2007, it was voted by readers of Business Traveler Magazine Asia Pacific as one of the three top hotels in the Philippines.

Cafe Jeepney (1)

Cafe Jeepney (2)

Cafe Jeepney dining area

We all checked in at a spacious and comfortable 2-bed De Luxe room (Suite 839), one of 332 guest rooms that were updated in 2006. Incorporating traditional and modern Filipino design infused with a refined European touch, each room had warm earth tones and rich, walnut wood finish. it features individually-controlled airconditioning, flat-screen LCD cable TV, work desk with lamp, in-room safe, IDD/NDD phone, coffee/tea making facility, mini fridge, private bathroom with bathtub and free high-speed wireless internet.

Double Bed De Luxe Suite (Suite 839)

Double Bed De Luxe Suite (Suite 839)

The staff was polite, efficient and attentive to our needs.  The presence of pretty Ambassador ladies greeting guests at the entrance was a nice touch.  They also offer valet, airport transfers, currency exchange, tours, concierge, car rental, laundry and room service.  InterContinental Manila has 4 restaurants and bars that offer a wide selection of food and wines to suit every taste and to match the occasion.

Gambrinus Bar

Gambrinus Bar

The Prince Albert Rotisserie, a fine dining restaurant, offers gourmet French and Continental fare, classic wines and is best known for its tableside preparation of US prime rib and Crepe Suzette. In addition to the main dining section, the restaurant boasts of three dining salons for guests desiring more privacy. During our stay, they offered a special New Year’s Eve set dinner menu (PhP2,990++ per person) which included veal, duckling, and morel terrine and roast prime rib of Aberdeen Angus beef with baked potato, buttered garden vegetables and red wine sauce. A special à la carte menu was likewise be offered. Its impeccable service has reaped prestigious awards and numerous citations including Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Gustateurs ‘Trés Belle Carte” (Best Wine List) Award.

Sol y Sombra

Sol y Sombra

Café Jeepney, a favorite meeting place and watering hole for people in the news and those who write about them, was where we had our breakfast.  The evening of our stay, they offered a buffet for PhP2,000++ per person. Themed around the world famous Filipino jeepney, it features a mouth-watering spread of Filipino and international fare, a la carte and buffet style, including live cooking and carving stations.

Function Room

Function Room

The ground floor Gambrinus Bar, a venue to meet family and friends amongst the view of the poolside garden, offers an appetizing selection of a la carte dishes, bar chows and cocktails while listening to live music in the evening.  Sol y Sombra offers savory snacks, tropical thirst quenchers and cocktails by the poolside or inside one of the “bahay kubos” (nipa huts).

Club Lounge

Club Lounge

The Club Lounge, where we had access, offered breakfast and snacks throughout the day as well as happy hour in the evening.  It had a stunning view of the Makati skyline.  The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool (said to be the largest in Makati), an 800-1,000-pax grand ballroom, 7 meeting rooms (Bahia, San Lorenzo, etc.), business center, full-service spa (Suriya), sauna, gift shop, beauty salon and a gym (Gold’s Gym)..

Swimming Pool

Swimming Pool

Our room package (PhP9,888 net) also included a New Year’s Countdown for two, which started  8 PM onwards, at its Grand Ballroom, with free-flowing red and white wine, champagne, soda, iced tea, and a buffet spread of holiday favorites.

New Year Countdown (Grand Ballroom) (1)

 

New Year Countdown at the Grand Ballroom

New Year Countdown at the Grand Ballroom

Performing live music on stage was the all-girl (AJ Salvado, Jen Manalac, and Pia Diamante) Silk Band who rendered rhythm & blues and the best of OPM, from the 1970s to the present.  Right after the countdown, we watched the fireworks outside.

Family bonding at the InterContinental Manila

Family bonding at the InterContinental Manila

InterContinental Manila: 1 Ayala Ave., Ayala Center, Makati City, 1226 Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 793-7000. Website: www.intercontinental.com/Manila.

Pheasant’s Tears (Sighnaghi, Georgia)

(All photos courtesy of Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The endpoint of our GNTA-sponsored walking tour of Sighnaghi town proper was Pheasant’s Tears where Buddy, Pancho, Riva, Mel and I, together with our Georgian guide Sopho Makashvili, were to have lunch and sample some Georgian wine.  Pheasant’s Tears, a Georgian winery that produces artisanal natural wines according to ancient Georgian traditions, was founded in 2007 by John H. Wurdeman V and Gela Patalishvili.

Pheasant's Tears

Pheasant’s Tears

John, an en plein air painter and the first American graduate of the prestigious Surikov Institute in Moscow, first came to Georgia in 1996 and bought a house in Sighnaghi the following year. In 1998, he relocated to Georgia full time. Gela, a winegrower whose family’s connection with wine goes back 8 generations, met John in 2005 when John was painting in a vineyard near the highway in the Alazani Valley near the village of Tibaani.  They decided to work together and set up Pheasant’s Tears. The name “pheasant’s tears” refers to a Georgian story in which only the very best wines are good enough to make a pheasant cry.  

The restaurant's rustic interior

The restaurant’s rustic interior

An old wine press

An old wine press

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Mr. Shergil Pirtskhelani, Pheasant’s Tears sommelier (wine steward), who brought us all to the winery’s basement cellar and gave us a brief introduction on ancient Georgian wine making traditions.  All wines are fermented in kvevri, traditional clay amphorae which are lined with organic beeswax and buried into the ground. Kvevri wines seem to age faster than conventional wines.

The wine cellar

The wine cellar

Fermentations using naturally occurring yeast is employed and slightly different techniques are used to make each of the wines. Some have moderate skin contact while others have minimal (3 weeks to 6 months). Stems are included in the wine making process. In 2013, the ancient traditional kvevri wine-making method was inscribed on the UNESCO representative list of “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.”

Our host Shergil Pirtskhelani

Our host Shergil Pirtskhelani

After this brief introduction, Shergil then toured us around John’s (who was at Tokyo during our visit) studio which houses his books, painting paraphernalia (easels, paint, brushes, etc.) and artwork that reflects John’s overflowing passion and love for Georgia.

Studio of John H. Wurdeman V

Studio of John H. Wurdeman V

It was now time for lunch and we all went down to the private dining room which had a warming fireplace.  The supra (Georgian feast) before us, prepared with fresh ingredients from the local markets by head chef Gia Rokashvili, a local Sighnaghian, was a take on traditional Georgian cuisine with an eye towards wine and food pairings, all designed to accommodate both veggie (Sopho and Riva belonged to this category) and meat lovers.

Kidney beans with wild thyme

Kidney beans with wild thyme

Fresh vegetable salad

Fresh vegetable salad

Stewed veal with vegetables

Stewed veal with vegetables

On the menu was matsoni (strained water buffalo yoghurt with red pepper); curds with black pepper and green onions; fresh vegetable salad, (radish, carrots, arugula, cabbage, onions, olives, tomatoes and cucumber in sunflower seed oil); mushrooms sautéed with garlic; kidney beans with wild thyme; omelet (radish greens, onions, pepper and broccoli); roast potatoes with tkemali (wild plum sauce) and stewed veal with vegetables.

The private dining room

The private dining room

While dining, Shergil poured 3 kinds of Georgian wine in our respective wine glasses for us to taste, helping us understand the roots that these wines came from.  We started with Chinuri 2013, the lightest, crispest white wine in the line-up; followed by Rkatsiteli 2011 which was spicy and exotic on the nose, with warm peachy notes; and Tavkvevri 2013, a vivid, juicy and berryish red wine.  He also assumed the role of tamada (Georgian toastmaster) as we sampled each of these wines.

Chinuri, Rkatsiteli and Tavkvevri wine

Chinuri, Rkatsiteli and Tavkvevri wine

L-R- Mel, Riva, Sopho, the author, Pancho and Buddy

L-R- Mel, Riva, Sopho, the author, Pancho and Buddy

Shergil happened to be a music teacher who teaches folk and sacred songs from Georgia with traditional Georgian stringed instruments. After our magnificent repast, he regaled us by playing the guitar while Ms. Enek Peterson, an American from Boston (Massachusetts), serenaded us with the popular spiritual song “Hallelujah” (written by Canadian singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen in 1984) plus a Georgian song. This capped a wonderful afternoon filled with great art, delightful Georgian cuisine and soul-searching music.

Shergil and Enek serenading us with two songs

Shergil and Enek serenading us with two songs

Pheasant’s Tears: 18 Baratashvili St., Sighnaghi, Georgia 4200.  Tel: 0 355 23 15 56.  Mobile number: +(995 599) 53-44-84. E-mail: jwurdeman@pheasantstears.com. Website: ww.pheasantstears.com.

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.