Baguio City: Our Gateway to Sagada

Albergo Hotel

It was Jandy’s trimestral break at Asia Pacific College and we didn’t want this week-long opportunity to go by without going on vacation.  I decided to return to Sagada (Mountain Province), a place we last visited nearly 13 years ago.  Just like the previous, we were to go there via Baguio City, staying overnight at the E. Ganzon Inc.-owned Albergo Hotel.

Jandy and I departed Manila on the 1:15 PM Victory Liner de luxe (PhP715 each) airconditioned bus.  The 6.5-hr. trip was non-stop, the need for toilet breaks negated by a toilet on board, plus free wi-fi and some snacks. Part of the time was spent on siestas.  We arrived at the Victory Liner Terminal by 8 PM and, before anything else, had dinner at Maxim’s Teahouse within the terminal.

Room 811

From the terminal, we took a taxi to get to Albergo Hotel.  Once there, we stayed at Room 811 (with its view of SM Baguio).

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Albergo Hotel

Hotel Lobby

Albergo Hotel is also a stone’s throw away from Baguio City’s most popular tourist attractions such as Wright Park, Teachers Camp and Mansion House. 

Albergo Hotel: 1 Villamor Drive, Lualhati 2600 Baguio City, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 424-2620  and (074) 424-7176.Manila booking office – Tel:  (02) 552-0331.  Fax: (02) 552-0083. E-mail: egi.albergo@yahoo.com and albergohotel_baguio@yahoo.com.  Website: www.egialbergo.webs.com.

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Hotel Elizabeth: A Touch of the Mediterranean in Baguio (Benguet)

The Mediterranean-inspired Hotel ElizabethThe first day of our Manila North Tollways Corp. (MNTC)/North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB)-sponsored Lakbay Norte 2 media tour started in Baguio City, the Philippines’ “Summer Capital,”  where we checked out the city’s vibrant art scene, notably the Tam-awan Village in the morning and the BenCab Museum (and meeting BenCab himself) in the afternoon.

It was overcast during the former and it rained at the latter but the sun did peek out, albeit for a short time, just enough time for us to be awed by the Mediterranean splendor of Hotel Elizabeth, the place where we were to stay overnight, as we entered its driveway flanked by gazebos on one side and beautiful landscaping on both sides. It was more so when we entered its lavish but tastefully-decorated atrium-like lobby.  

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Hotel Elizabeth

Our 4-bed De Luxe Room

Dandi Galvez, Ivan ManDy, Art Villasanta and I were billeted in one of its stylishly furnished and European-inspired four-pax carpeted suites. Come nighttime, we were treated to dinner at the Floral Cafe where we partook of creamy vegetable soup, rosemary chicken with fish fillet and marinara sauce and steamed vegetable sidings plus a dessert of pastries and fruit.  Wi-Fi was strong here and in the lobby, though weak in our room.

After this delicious three-course meal, a number of us decided to burn our excess calories by exploring nearby attractions such as the Mansion House (and its Pool of Pines) and Wright Park, both 200 m. away.  The Good Shepherd Convent and Mines View Park are also within that same distance.

Floral Coffee Shop

Come early morning, after a equally delicious breakfast at our previous watering hole, hotel owner Ms. Jean Salonga-Fernando toured us around the hotel’s other rooms.

Hotel Elizabeth: 1 Felipe St. cor. Gibraltar Rd., Baguio City, Benguet.  Tel: (632) 911-2161 local 148 and 912-2691 (direct line).  Fax: (632) 912-2693. Website: www.hotelelizabeth-baguio.com.

A National Artist and a Haven for his Art (Tuba, Benguet)

After our Lakbay Norte 2 visit to Tam-awan Village in Pinsao Proper in Baguio City, we all returned to our bus and proceeded to Asin Rd. in Tuba, 6 kms. from the city, to visit a prominent Filipino artist who has taken up permanent residence in the Philippines’ “Summer Capital.”

The author with Benedicto “Bencab” Cabrera

The city, whose lovely natural environment and the rich Cordillera cultural heritage has inspired creativity, has become a natural haven for artists and now home to a growing number of gallery cafes and exhibits that showcase the paintings and sculptures of groups of local as well as visiting artists.

He is one of many who shared a passion for indigenous art, injecting local elements and techniques in their works, and dedicated to nurturing and preserving Cordilleran culture. That man is painter, printmaker and 2006 National Artist for the Visual Arts Benedicto R. Cabrera, more popularly known as BenCab.

He’s not named Benjamin as mentioned in other write ups though I wish he had the same first name as me. He, together with popular local artists such as solar artist Jordan Mang-osan, mixed-media painter John Frank Sabado and self-taught artist Ged Alangui set up the Chanum Foundation.

The author seated at a hagabi (a rich Ifugao’s bench)

Chanum which, in Ibaloi, means “water,” was the name adopted to symbolize its vision and role to be as nurturing and life-giving as a spring in the once vast pastureland of Pinsao.

After passing a woodcarver’s village with rows of shops selling a fabulous collection of carved figures, in varying sizes, ranging from giant statues to “stickmen,” we arrived at the ultra-modern BenCab Museum, built on a promontory.

Here, we were welcomed by BenCab himself. A Baguio resident for a quarter of century now, Bencab set up this permanent home for his art as well as his personal collection of the works of other acknowledged Filipino masters and rising contemporary artists and his collection of Cordillera artifacts.  After the interview, we explored the different areas of the museum.

The BenCab Gallery features the artist’s own works over a continuing artistic career that spans more than four decades.

The Cordillera Gallery is the repository of BenCab ’s collection of Cordilleran tribal artifacts and indigenous crafts such as bulols (rice granary gods); functional carved objects such as furniture, spoons, bowls and other utilitarian implements such baskets; and tribal weapons.

The Philippine Contemporary Art Galleries (1 and 2) houses the artist’s collection of paintings, drawings, prints and sculpture accumulated by BenCab through the years.

Philippine Contemporary Art Gallery

The Maestro Gallery houses a selection of works acknowledged masters of Philippine art such as Lee Aguinaldo, Roberto Chabet, Victorio C. Edades, Jose Joya, Cesar Legaspi, Arturo Luz, Anita Magsaysay-Ho, Juvenal Sanso, Fernando Zobel and others.

Erotic Gallery – Sculpture

Erotica Gallery

The Erotica Gallery houses paintings, drawings, sculpture and other artworks by various artists with an erotic subject or theme. The Print Gallery exhibits vintage maps, prints, photographs and postcards on the Philippines as well as contemporary prints and photographs.

The tall Sepia Gallery, adjoining the museum shop (which sells art books, paper products such as postcards, and notepads, highland art & crafts such as wood carvings and textiles as well as other souvenir items from t-shirts, and caps), is a venue for changing exhibitions.

Patio Salvador, an open terrace adjoining the Indigo Gallery, is used for receptions and sculpture shows while the Larawan Hall serves as a function room for art workshops, meetings, seminars, art film showings, and other related activities.

 

Prior to leaving, we enjoyed a merienda of clubhouse sandwiches and pasta dishes at Cafe Sabel, the museum’s coffee shop which overlooks the hill beyond and the mini-forest and duck pond below the museum.

Also below the museum is the farm and garden which showcases organic farm produce (seasonal vegetables, herbs, strawberries, sweet potatoes, coffee and ornamentals) and the typical Ifugao, Kalinga and Bontoc indigenous architecture.

Cafe Sabel

A river, which meanders through the property, has cascading waterfalls on one end.  There is an aviary housing peacocks and various birds,plus  ducks, geese, turkeys and other local livestock.

The organic farm below

BenCab Museum: Km. 6, Asin Rd., Tadiangan, Tuba, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 442-7165.  Mobile: (0920) 530-1954.  E-mail: bencabartfoundation@gmail.com.  Website: www.bencabmuseum.org. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM-6 PM.  General Admission: PhP100.  Students and Senior Citizens (with valid ID): PhP80.

Tam-awan Village: A Showcase of Cordillera Life (Baguio City, Benguet)

Tam-awan Village

The first leg of our Manila North Tollways Corporation (MNTC)/North Philippines Visitor’s Bureau (NPVB)-sponsored Lakbay Norte 2 Tour brought us to Baguio City, the country’s “Summer Capital,” where we were to check out the city’s art scene inspired by Baguio’s lovely natural environment and the rich Cordillera cultural heritage.  Our first stop was, fittingly, Tam-awan Village in Pinsao Proper where we were welcomed by Baguio City Visitors Bureau (BCVB) representatives Eric Pangilinan, Matt Roncal and Claire Iniong. This model village is laid out just like a traditional Cordillera village, making it accessible for those who have not had the opportunity to explore the different parts of the vast Cordillera region in the Philippines.  This recreated village, uniquely blending indigenous aesthetics and exquisite Cordilleran craftsmanship, has a charming collection of 9 authentic knock down huts built by clever mortise makers without nails or hardware Seven of these are compact and deceptively simple Ifugao huts transported from Bangaan, (Ifugao ).  The other two are more spacious Kalinga huts made of hand-hewn pine wood.  Some huts are over a hundred years old but have new cogon roofs which are periodically re-roofed from time to time.  All huts are named after the areas where they come from.

Jordan Mang-osan with one of his works  

Upon entering the compound, our media group, consisting of travel writers, bloggers and photographers, all explored the grounds including its art works at the art gallery and gazebo (across which is a stone-paved dap-ay where rituals and dances are performed) and the areas used for conferences, seminars and workshops.  Workshops here offer livelihood and crafts demonstrations on woodcarving, bamboo crafts, papermaking, weaving, printmaking, rice wine making and solar drawing, all envisioned to foster a deeper understanding, respect and pride in the cultural heritage of the Cordillera people.  The latter, a specialty of  Mr. Mang-osan, is an ancient Ifugao technique wherein a wooden surface  is burned using the sun’s rays to create an image.  

Portrait Sketching Session with local artistsA highlight of our visit was having our portraits sketched (for a fee of PhP100 per sketch), using charcoal pencil, by one of the many well-known artists who have their artwork on display. Other members of our group tried a hot cup of aromatic native Arabica coffee or sipped a glass of Winers tapuy (made from rice) or bugnay (made from Benguet strawberries) wine. Come lunchtime, we were served native pinikpikan, kintuman (brown rice), a salad of Baguio veggies and strawberry crepes for dessert.   Pinikpikan is prepared by beating a live chicken with a stick prior to cooking. The beating bruises the chicken’s flesh, bringing blood to its surface, which is said to improve the flavor after cooking.   
Tam-awan Village: 366-C Pinsao Proper, Baguio City, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 446-2949.  Fax: (074) 442-5553.  Website: www.tam-awanvillage.com. Admission: PhP50 (adults), PhP30 (students and senior citizens), and PhP20 (children).
Baguio Convention Visitors Bureau: 2/F Philippine Tourism Authority Bldg., Abad Santos Drive, Burnham Park, Baguio City, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 442-4315.  E-mail: baguio.cvb@gmail.com.

Kennon Road (Tuba, Benguet)

Bernard, Rodel, Jandy and i all woke up very early in the morning as we had to make it back to Manila by lunch time as Jandy had an afternoon class at Asia Pacific College.  Previously, I entered Baguio City via the longer Palispis-Aspiras Highway (formerly Marcos Highway).  This time, to cut travel time and distance (43 kms.), I plan to return via the traditional Kennon Road route.  Besides, it is also the most exciting and scenic route.  Starting from Rosario, Pangasinan, this winding 38-km. zigzag road, though narrower than the Marcos Highway, is used by light vehicles only, leaving out the wider buses and slower cargo trucks.  

Jandy and Rodel at the Lion’s Head

Started in 1903 by American Col. Leighton W.V. Kennon with 125 imported Japanese laborers, its labor force was increased to 2,000 by the time of its opening on January 29, 1905. Built at a cost of US$2,051,562.80, it was the most expensive road in the world at that time.  Points of interest along the way are named after spots in California’s Yosemite Valley in the American West.  The upward climb reveals picturesque heights, lush greenery and two roughly-hewn, pre-World War II mountainside tunnels (one of which has a stream running through it) meant to accommodate a locomotive and pave the way for those narrow-gauge railroad runs from Baguio City to Damortis but never used.  Best viewed near the Kennon Police Checkpoint, this road is frequently hit by landslides during the heavy monsoon rains. 

Bridal Veil Natural Falls

On a hairpin bend above the steep-sided Bued Rier gorge, at Camp 6, a few kms. from the Kennon Rd. view deck, we made a stopover at the 40-ft. high Lion Head.   Built from 1971 to 1972, it was carved from a limestone boulder by a Cordillera artist hired by the Lions Club to create a symbol that would proclaim the presence of the group in Baguio City. Beside it are a few small stalls selling woodcarving and other native handicraft. It was during the term of Baguio Mayor Luis Lardizabal, who was also Lions Club governor in 1969 to 1970, when the club conceptualized the creation of the lion head.  Actual work started in 1971 and took a year before it was unveiled to the public by Lions Club International in 1972. The club tapped donations from Lion members and businessmen in the city and pooled proceeds from a state convention to fund the construction of the lion head.

Further down the Kennon Road, past Camp 3,  about 36 kms. from Baguio City, we espied Bridal Veil Natural Falls.  So called because of its silvery braids of water, it cascades down its steep, rocky slope to a 10-ft. deep natural pool.  

Bridal Veil Natural Falls: Brgy. Tabaan Sur, Tuba, Benguet

Bell Church (La Trinidad, Benguet)

From the strawberry farms, Bernard, Rodel, Jandy and I proceeded to the Bell Church.  Right before the Welcome Arch of La Trinidad, we espied, on a hillside, a cluster of ornate Chinese-style temples and pagodas.  On the right, we entered a large arch with 2 dragons facing each other, then traversed a narrow alley leading up to the temple.  Once inside, we parked the Revo at a spacious parking lot alongside a terraced wall filled with Chinese prints.

Bell Church
The terraced wall filled with Chinese prints

Built by the early Chinese settlers in Baguio and Benguet, this temple is run by the Bell Church Inc. that believes in a amalgam of Buddhist, Taoist, Confusian and Christian doctrines.  The church, guarded by fu dogs, has ornate gateways topped by ephemeral dragons, a towering pagoda with curliqued roofing, windows guarded by stone Buddhas and bells.

Rodel and Jandy posing beside a Chinese deity

Posing beside a fu dog

Bell Church: Km. 3, Brgy. Balili, La Trinidad, Benguet. Open 6 AM-5 PM.

How to Get There: Take a jeepney at the corner of Magsaysay Ave. and Bonifacio St. in Baguio City. 

The Strawberry Fields of La Trinidad (Benguet)

Bernard and Rodel again joined Jandy and I as we proceeded to the Benguet provincial capitol of La Trinidad, where we visited the Strawberry Farms.  The Trinidad Valley is home, aside from vegetable farms and flower plantations, to strawberry fields that are in full bloom between November and May.  We headed for Km. 6, the easiest place to visit. 

Ibaloi farmers hard at work at the fields

Tourist usually go here to pick strawberries, either to bring home or consume while on vacation, alongside hardworking Ibaloi farmers.  Strangely though, the strawberries you pick here cost twice the market value.  The other half is for the activity itself.  Still, its cheaper than the ones sold in Manila. We weren’t into this fun activity though.  Besides, the best time to do this is early in the morning and we arrived late in the afternoon when the best strawberries have already been picked. 

Souvenir stalls

Rather, we were going for the finished products sold at souvenir stalls, selling strawberry products and other Baguio delicacies and souvenir items, within the farm ground, just across the road from the fields.  We bought a couple of jars of strawberry jam, some sweaters and, from an ambulant vendor,  a snakeskin wallet.  Still, the strawberry fields were still a sight to behold, producing the best, disease-free (due to a process of tissue culture pioneered by Benguet State University) strawberries in the country. 

Camp John Hay – Historical Core (Baguio City, Benguet)

After lunch at the Philippine Military Academy (PMA) cafeteria, Jandy and I again boarded our Toyota Revo and proceeded to Camp John Hay. This attractive, quiet place, with views of the surrounding hills, always offers an abundance of rest and recreation activities such as hikes along a 1.8-km. eco-trail; biking, horseback riding and kiddie rides at Scout Hill; camping, an educational tour of the Butterfly Sanctuary; and golf at its 5,330-yard, 18-hole, par-68 golf course, one of the best in the country.

Club John Hay Golf Course

The Camp John Hay Mile-Hi Center, a former recreation center of the Americans, offers local and exported crafts and garments.  Within the CJH Commercial Mall, located at the former Administration Bldg., is the John Hay Commissary (a duty-free shop), Strumms, Dencio’s Bar and Grill, Side Bar and Nike Stadium, plus a billiards hall, business center and an internet cafe.  There’s also the Camp John Hay Manor and the Camp John Hay Suites, nice places to stay within the camp.

John Hay Manor

A 3-hectare slice of nostalgia within the camp, called the Historical Core, my favorite spot then and now, has been set aside to preserve the camp’s timelessness and allure.  Deemed inviolate to the whims and winds of change, this living museum was envisioned as more than just a window on time.  It consists of the Bell Amphitheater, the History Trail, Honeymoon Lodge, Our Secret Garden, the Cemetery of Negativism and Bell House.

Cemetery of Negativism

Near the entrance is the Cemetery of Negativism, built during the term of camp commander Maj. John Hightower (1979-1982).  A glimpse into the homespun American philosophy of living, here we strolled among the tombstones where bad habits and the scourge of productivity are buried, its touch of whimsy doing little to negate the truth of its message.  Among them are the inept Kant du Nutin Wright, the defeatist Ben Trid Bfor and the notorious General Neg A. Tivism (whose epitaph reads “Died of positive reaction to enthusiasm”).

Bell House (Camp John Hay Museum)

The Bell House, now the Camp John Hay Museum (opened on October 25, 2003), was named after U.S. Gen. J. Franklin Bell.  Initially built as the vacation home of the Commanding General, today it is the repository of artifacts and other indoor exhibits.

Bell Amphitheater

Personally designed by Gen. Bell who took inspiration from the Ifugao’s terracing technique, the amphitheater was once a venue for social and cultural gatherings known for its perfect acoustics.  Anything said under the gazebo at the center is amplified, audible from any point within the amphitheater.  Its rows of chairs have since been replaced and it is now a multi-level landscaped garden with rare flowers.  The amphitheater is now available for concerts, weddings and other special occasions.

The History Trail

The History Trail, designed to wind its way amidst pine trees, offers landscaped resting areas.  Our Secret Garden is planted to blooms that add a splash of color and scents. It also has a gazebo. The Honeymoon Cottage is rented out to newlyweds.

Philippine Military Academy – Military Drill (Baguio City, Benguet)

It seems, I came on a wrong day (it being a Monday) for a visit to the Philippine Military Academy, missing out on the weekly military ceremony which consists of a regular Saturday Inspection (SI) of ranks, all dressed in their colorful uniforms consisting of a dark gray jacket with heavy brass buttons, a pair of white pants and the shaku, and their parade at Borromeo Field.

Military Drill

Military ceremonies, important parts of the academy’s tradition, serve the dual function of rendering honors and courtesies to deserving officials and dignitaries and to train the cadets through parades, precision marching, poise and discipline. Occasionally, silent drills are also held, wherein the performers, selected from the yearlings or the third-class cadets, execute drills and marches which include precise manual of arms and fancy formations, all done without commands. However, we still witnessed the 11 AM military drills which were a spectacle in itself. Rest assured, my future visit to the academy will be on a Saturday.

Fort Del Pilar: Loakan Rd., Baguio City, Benguet

Philippine Military Academy – PMA Museum (Baguio City, Benguet)

From Melchor Hall, Jandy and I walked over to the nearby 2-storey building housing the PMA Museum.  Here, we sampled the PMA story as well as military history  through its display of old black and white photos, documents, newspaper clippings, paintings, weapons, memorabilia and other historical artifacts. 

The PMA Museum
The museum displays a typical cadet room (complete with double bunk bed, study tables, chairs and closets); a diorama of the Battle of Bulacan; the evolution military uniforms from 1908 to the present; old books; a painting of the Battle of Tirad Pass; class seals; photos of PMA superintendents; and weapons (rocket launcher, swords, rifles, spears, knives, etc.)
 
A typical Cadet Room
Battle of Bulacan diorama
Posing beside a circa 1908 uniform
Prominently displayed on the wall is a copy of the September 2, 1945 Japanese Instrument of Surrender, held on board the battleship USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay. Marking the end of World War II, it was signed by representatives of Japan, U.S., USSR, China, France, U.K., Australia, Canada, Netherlands and New Zealand.
 
Copy of Japanese Instrument of Surrender
Prominently displayed is a signboard of the Abdulrahman Bedis Memorial Military Academy, the largest camp of the Moro Islamic Liberation Front in Central Mindanao, located in Brgy. Tugaig, Barira, Maguindanao. It was captured in July 2000 by elements of the 7th Infantry Batallion (6th Infantry Division) under Lt.-Col Audie G. Delizo.
 
Signboard of Abdulraman Bedis Memorial Military Academy

The War and Weapons Gallery displays trophies of war, personal effects (sabers, helmets, boots, caps, belts, etc.) and other interesting artifacts belonging to PMA alumni, former cadets and other personalities.  

Personal effects of PMA alumni
Among the trophies of war displayed here is a short, wide and leaf-shaped, single-edged barong knife previously owned by Abu Sayaff commander Mujib Susukan.  It was seized on May 7, 2000 in Brgy. Bandang, Talipao, Sulu, by elements of Task Force Sultan (104th Brigade) of the 1st Infantry Division under then Col. Romeo P. Tolentino during its first encounter in the attempt to rescue 19 foreign hostages kidnapped in Sipadan, Sabah, Malaysia.
 
Mujib Susukan barong knife
The Alumni Gallery displays the names and class pictures of PMA alumni.    The museum also has a souvenir shop.
 
The Alumni Gallery
PMA Museum: Fort Del Pilar, Loakan Rd., Baguio City, Benguet.  Open daily, 8 AM-5 PM.  Admission: PhP10 (PhP5  for children and students).