Back to Camarines Norte

Municipal Guest House

For the third time this year, I was again invited to visit Daet, in Camarines Norte, this time to cover its Pinyasan Festival as well as the 150th birth anniversary of Jose Rizal, the town being the site of our National Hero’s first monument.  I was joined by event organizer Mr. Bernard Supetran, professional photographer Mr. Lee Llamas, travel writers Mr. Timothy Jay “TJ” A. Ibay of What’s On and Ms. Karla Marcia Rey, and travel blogger (and Karla’s boyfriend) Mr. Orlando “Lan” Cajigal.   We all left via a 9 PM airconditioned bus at the Philtranco terminal in Pasay City, all sitting at the rear of the bus.  This was to be my first long-haul bus (8-9 hrs.) trip to Daet, my first being by plane to Naga City (plus a 2-hr. van drive back to Daet) and the two others by van.

Surfer’s Dine Inn

Our 6 AM arrival at Daet was heralded with a crash as our bus’ roof  scraped the low ceiling of the bus shed.  Poor bus driver (salary deduction).  Our trusty driver from the Provincial Tourism Office, Mr. Amable Miranda, was on hand at the terminal to pick us up with a van.  We were first brought to Surfer’s Dine Inn, along Bagasbas Blvd., for an early Filipino breakfast (mine was pork chops). Here, we were met by Provincial Tourism Officer and good friend Atty. Debbee Francisco.  Amable then brought us to the Municipal Guest House, also along Bagasbas Blvd., where we freshened up and rested for a short while.   We were all slated to go overnight camping at Tinaga Island, one of the famed Calaguas Islands.  This was to be my second visit and the first for the rest.We left Bagasbas by 8 AM for the leisurely drive to Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale, bringing along just enough personal necessities for our overnight camping (plus some borrowed pillows and blankets from the guesthouse).  The national highway unusually passed through the gated property (which was closed at night) of the modern Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (consecrated on  September 1, 1984).  Here we made a brief stopover for photo ops.

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity

Return to Tinaga Island and Mahabang Buhangin (Camarines Norte)

Mahabang Buhangin Beach

We finally arrived at Minaogan Fish Port in Paracale by 10 AM.  Here, a motorized outrigger boat, much smaller than the 25-pax boat I used during my first visit (which was grounded with a damaged propeller), was made available for our use.  Ms. Genelyn Angel S. David, a member of Debbee’s staff, also joined us here.  As it was still low tide, we had to wade the shallow waters to get to the boat, Debbee accidentally dipping (and ruining) her mobile phone while doing so. We were on soon our way, the 2-hr. boat trip being uneventful as the sea was calm.

My second Mahabang Buhangin sunset

We arrived at Tinaga Island by noontime, making landfall at the famed white sand of Mahabang Buhangin.  Lunch was still a long way off as the supplies had to be unloaded, followed by food preparation and cooking.  While waiting for lunch, we set the 4 Coleman dome tents provided for us.  Lunch was ready by the time we were done and we all feasted, kamayan style, on fried chicken, steamed rice and grilled squid.   After this late repast, we rested for a while or chatted.  Later, in the afternoon, Karla, Lan, Angel, Debbee and I plus 2 young island boys, both brothers, who acted as our guides, made our way along the beach to the base of a hill on the previously unexplored (by me) south side of the island.  From here, it was all uphill and downhill, along a well-marked trail, through a thick forest and, finally, through cogon (spear) grass.  Here, we had a somewhat obstructed view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  After some photo ops, we made our way back to the beach where Lee had already set up his camera, eagerly awaiting the sunset.  Though not as unobstructed by clouds as during my first visit, it was still just as spectacular.

Mahabang Buhangin viewed from the south hill

While waiting for lunch, we set the 4 Coleman dome tents provided for us.  Lunch was ready by the time we were done and we all feasted, kamayan style, on fried chicken, steamed rice and grilled squid.   After this late repast, we rested for a while or chatted.  Later, in the afternoon, Karla, Lan, Angel, Debbee and I plus 2 young island boys, both brothers, who acted as our guides, made our way along the beach to the base of a hill on the previously unexplored (by me) south side of the island.  From here, it was all uphill and downhill, along a well-marked trail, through a thick forest and, finally, through cogon (spear) grass.  Here, we had a somewhat obstructed view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  After some photo ops, we made our way back to the beach where Lee had already set up his camera, eagerly awaiting the sunset.  Though not as unobstructed by clouds as during my first visit, it was still just as spectacular.

Footprints in the sand

Back in our camp, dinner was already being prepared and soon we were dining, with flashlights, on grilled pork chops, laing and steamed rice.  Too early for sleeping, we chatted away till 11 PM when we decided to call it a night and retire to our tents.  Come morning, we awoke to a delicious breakfast of longanisa, fried egg, coffee and fried rice.  The weather that morning, however, was overcast and soon it started to drizzle.  Typhoon Egay had now made landfall.  Still, this did not dampen our spirit for adventure and Lee, Angel, Karla, Lan, TJ, Debbee, Bernard and I hiked along the beach to the north side of the island where Lee did a fashion shoot, at the beach and among rock formations, with Angel as model.  After the shoot, Lee and Angel made their way back to the camp while rest of us made our way up the hill, first through a light forest, then out into a grassy clearing where we had a panoramic view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  Further up, we had  360 degree view of both Mahabang Buhangin and nearby offshore islands. Below us was another white sand beach.  Thus sated, we made our way down the hill to the beach and back to the camp.

Surfing 101 at Bagasbas (Daet, Camarines Norte)

Learning the basics from BUSA president Ryan Vito

We were now on our last day in Daet and, after covering the 4th Bagasbas Summer Surf Festival, we took time out to learn surfing ourselves.  It would be my second time to try (and failing miserably on 10 tries) and a first for Mark.  Joining us at the surfing clinic was ABC TV5 correspondent Justine Santos, also a second time surfing student.  Mr. Ryan Francis V. Vito, president of the Bagasbas United Surfers Association (BUSA), was on hand to personally teach us the basics of surfing.

Jasmine Santos learning to lie down on the board

First, we were taught the parts of the surfboard.  Then, with the surfboard on the sand, Ryan taught us how to lie down on a surfboard (centered along the stringer), with the toes of our feet touching the tail-end (called the tail block) and making sure that the board is not tilting left or right while we’re trying it. Next, we were taught to push up on the board, with our hands on the sides (called the “rails”) of the board, then when up, to drag one foot up under us in the center of the board and, finally, to push up on our front foot into a standing position, using our arms like legs to push it up. Sounds easy.  Well, it was easier said than done.

Dennis Suing trying to learn the proper stance

Ryan assigned an instructor for each of us.  Champion surfer Ms. Lolita “Mocha” F. Edusma was   assigned to Jasmine while Mr. Joemel Bermejo, Mr. Rolan “Nash” Raro and Mr. Salvador “Onyo” Oclares were assigned to us guys.  BUSA’s instructors were the first in Philippines to be trained by the Academy of Surfing Instructors.  We headed down the beach, away from any surfers, our surfboards harnessed to our ankles. After walking some distance from the shore, I slowly mounted my surfboard with my instructor on the lookout for whitewater, waves that are crested and broken and rolling in long even white lines toward the beach.  With the approach of whitewater, I was told to get ready and whoosh!!!, the whitewater  slowly catches my board and lifts it up as I struggle to stand up and keep my balance while doing so.  Try as I did, I failed to do so with each try, falling each time just as I was getting my footing, getting a face full of salt water every time. I finally gave up when the board hit and sprained my wrist.

Mark Nunez with his instructor Onyo Oclares

I gladly surrendered my board and my instructor to ABC TV5 cameraman Mr. Amor Casiano while the other cameraman Mr. Dencio “Dennis” Suing filmed on. Then, it was Dennis’ turn to try it with Amor manning the camera.  In both cases, as in my case, the waves won with every try, with wipe outs the rule and not the exception.  The same was true with Mark and Jasmine.  Well, better luck next time.  Just, the same it was an experience we would gladly like to try again and again.   Hopefully, there will be a next time.  The waves of Daet haven’t seen the last of us.

Calaguas Islands (Vinzons, Camarines Norte)

A pristine paradise discovered

Part of my itinerary during my first week of February visit to Camarines Norte was to camp overnight at the famed Calaguas Islands, a group of 17 islands northeast of Daet under the jurisdiction of the town of Vinzons.   This was not to be as three days of continuous rain prevented us from doing so.  Two months later, I was again invited back in the province during the peak of summer, covering the 4th Bagasbas Summer Festival in Daet with blogger Mark Vincent Nunez.  This time the weather was perfect, with bright sunshine, clear skies and calm seas, and Mark and I were again invited by Provincial Tourism Officer Atty. Debbee Francisco to visit these islands  famed for their Boracay-like (minus the commercial development) white sand beaches.

Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale

Aside from Debbee and Mr. Amable Miranda, a member of her staff, and ABC TV 5 crew Ms. Justine Santos and cameramen Mr. Amor Casiano and Mr. Dencio Suing; Mark and I were joined by participants of the summer surf festival who availed of the special participant’s price of PhP1,350 per person (normal rates range between PhP1,800-2,300) which included the boat ride to and from the island, tents and two meals with snacks. They include Ms. Joie Lacson, Ms. Iya Yujuico, Ms. Katrina Cruz, Ms. Lei Reinares and Mr. Philipp Cabales of www.pakyaw.com; Mr. Arnel Pahuway of World Vision; and Mr. Darryll Montebon of Jubilee Christian Academy.

Survivor Calaguas

From Daet, we all boarded a van for the 38-km. drive to Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale, arriving there by 2:30 PM.  Here, we all boarded a large, 25-pax outrigger boat.  Provisions for our overnight stay were loaded as well.  The boat ride took all of two hours, passing a number of rocky outcrops and beautiful islands with white sand beaches, and we landed on a cove called Mahabang Buhangin (“long sand”) at the 8 km. long Tinaga Island, the most frequented camping and swimming site for tourists. The beach was everything it was hyped up to be: powdery fine white sand, crystal clear waters and blue skies.

On our way

It was now late in the afternoon (4:45 PM) when we landed and, once the provisions were landed, we all set up our respective tents in a shaded area, Mark and I staying in one of the seven tents.  A comfortable hammock was already in place.  As the beach faced the west, we were in for a magnificent sunset show.  After a delicious dinner of grilled fish and chicken, we all shared a good chat and laughs while toasting marshmallows over a bonfire. It was already late in the night when we called it a day.

Sunset at Mahabang Buhangin

Come morning, we awoke to a delicious Filipino breakfast of fried rice, fried egg, hot coffee and crispy dilis (anchovies) and espada.   Dabbing on a lot of sunblock, we all savored the sand, sun and sea, doing snorkeling, sunbathing as well as swimming.  Later, some of us tried to burn our excess calories by walking along the beach and then climbing up a nearby hill.   The view up there was fantastic, with a bird’s eye view of Mahabang Buhangin on one side and the nearby Guintinua Island and other smaller islands on the other side.  A photographer’s dream, it was truly beauty from every camera angle. which we all indulged in, kamayan style.

Mahabang Buhangin seen from the hill

Our cameras also espied boatloads of tourists coming in from the mainland, it being a Sunday weekend.  It was time to go and, it was with regret that we went down the hill.  Back on the beach, many boats were unloading their cargo of tourists, surfer friend Mr. Oween Andrade and his family among them, plus their provisions.  It was just fitting that we left by 10 AM, giving up our campsite to these tourists, as we wanted to avoid the influx of this maddening crowd.  We thus left the island with bittersweet memories, hoping one day to again savor its beauty. Quoting from the lyrics of an Ogie Alcasid song, “Sana Maulit Muli.”

Posing with Guintinua Island on the background

 

Roughing it up in San Lorenzo Ruiz (Camarines Norte)

The Hike Begins …..

From the second day onwards, right after the Pabirik Festival, it was raining from time to time and heavy rain welcomed us early in the morning of the third day, the day we were to travel to the Calaguas Islands and camp overnight. A phone call confirmed our worst fears – the trip to the Calaguas Islands was cancelled due to rain and high waves.  Regretfully, we switched to Plan B – a hike to Nakali Falls in San Lorenzo Ruiz town, rain or shine.  We were all driven to the municipal hall where two guides were assigned to us by the mayor.  Amable Miranda and Roufel “Raffy” de Vera of the Provincial Tourism Office also accompanied us.  As it was still early in the morning, we expected the round trip trek to the falls to be over in four hours and that we would be back at the municipal hall by lunch time.  How wrong we were.  Regretfully, for the trek, we only brought bottled water and some snacks we bought at Daet.

Me with Kara, Raffy and our guide

The trail was understandably wet and muddy due the previous night and today’s rain and I regretted having worn slippers instead of sandals which, more often than not, got stuck in the muck.  The uphill, downhill and sometimes flat trail brought us hiking through coconut and pineapple plantations, boulder-strewn river banks as well as crossing the Matacong hanging bridge.  I also made a wrong turn along the way, hiking alone for some time before retracing my steps and catching up with them.  A number of times, media colleague Lito Cinco wanted to quit, uttering his famous line “This is where I draw the line” a number of times, only to continue on his way, goaded on by Kara Santos.

Dining on coconut meat and juice

We all finally drew the line when we neared the falls as the strong river current, even with a guide rope thrown across, prevented us from hurdling the final leg.  Even if we did, heavy rain would have prevented us from using our cameras much less get a good, clear shot.  We just contented ourselves with bathing the cool river waters.  It was now late in the afternoon and we hadn’t eaten lunch, just snacks, water and the juice and meat of some coconuts plucked from trees at a shack where we made a stopover and rested.

Contenting ourselves with bathing at the river

The thought of a late lunch waiting for us at the municipal hall plus a hot shower and warm bed at the resort goaded us to reduce the return hike from the original 4 down to 3 hours, helped along by my walking barefooted in the mud, however risky it may be.  The others made better time than us and Mark Nunez and I brought up the rear, as we finally staggered back to the town, so weak that we bought and gobbled up chocolate bars at the first sari-sari store we saw just to get us again walking the last few strides to the municipal hall.  Upon arrival,  town mayor Nelson P. de los Santos welcomed us with a much anticipated but very late lunch.  The others were already eating when we arrived.  Back at Bagasbas Lighthouse Resort, we had to coax our weary and aching bodies just to eat our dinner.  Sleep came easy to us the weary that night. Check out my Business Mirror article “Camarines Norte: 400 Years of Keeping the Faith.”

 

Pabirik Festival (Paracale, Camarines Norte)

Pabirik Festival

Paracale was one of three parishes (the others were Daet and Vinzons) celebrating the quadricentennial of their parish’s foundation, an event which I, event organizer Bernard Supetran, blogger Mark Vincent Nunez and mediamen Kara Santos (Sunday Inquirer) and Joselito “Lito” Cinco were to cover.  Our second day in the province was, coincidentally, also the high point of the town’s Pabirik Festival.  We arrived just as the street dancing parade was making its way into the town’s gym for the final judging.  We first dropped by the town’s Spanish-era Church of Our Lady of Candles which was reconstructed between 1888 and 1898 under the direction of Fr. Jose Cardenoso, the last Spanish priest to serve the parish.  After that, we proceeded to the gym to watch the contingents perform.

Church of Our Lady of Candles

The festival showcases the rich mining industry of the town (the pabirik is a tool used in gold mining) which started when a large gold mine was discovered here in 1626. Locals here still pan for gold.  In fact, the town’s name was derived from para cale, meaning “canal digger.” Paracale  is still the center of the jewelry-making industry and, although the art has declined in importance, the town is still regarded as a good place to buy finely-crafted gold jewelry such as the agimon (or alakdan), a flat necklace chain of the 19th century.  The festival  also coincides with the feast of Our Lady of Candles (Nuestra Senora del Candelaria), the town’s patroness and, as such, her statue is borne by most participating contingents in the street dancing competition, together with cardboard or wood replicas of the gold panning trade. Check out my Business Mirror article “Camarines Norte: 400 Years of Keeping the Faith.”

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Poblacion, Paracale, Camarines Norte.  Tel: (054) 449-1008.

Museo Bulawan (Daet, Camarines Norte)

Bulawan Museum

Gen. Vicente R. Lukban Bust

The Bulawan Museum, known as the “Golden Museum,” is located within the sprawling Provincial Capitol.  

A window into the province’s rich history and culture, it has a collection of old photos; World War II memorabilia (weapons); portraits of past governors; and busts of local heroes (Gen. Vicente Lukban, Wenceslao Q. Vinzons, Sr., Capt. Tomas M. Zaldua and Lt.-Col. Francisco D. Boayes).

Old camera, telephone, wall clock and typewriter

Numismatic Collection of ol coins and paper currency

Wenceslao Q. Vinzons Sr. Bust

It also displays family heirloom pieces (including a collection of kitchen utensils such as silver spoons, fork and butter knife of the late Gov. Miguel Lukban), traditional clothing; a numismatic collection of old coins and paper currency; a collection of shells; gold jewelry; antique household appliances, paintings and a boya (a round floater attached to a net to keep it afloat). 

Antique wine glasses and teapot

Museo Bulawan: Provincial Capitol Complex, Daet, Camarines Norte.  

Celebrating Four Centuries of Christianity in Camarines Norte

Courtesy call on Gov. Edgardo A. Tallado

The year 2011 marks the quadricentennial of the University of Sto. Tomas, the oldest university in Asia. In Camarines Norte, it marks a different milestone – the 400th year foundation anniversary of the three parishes of Daet, Paracale and Vinzons.  Although all these towns were founded by Franciscan missionaries in 1581, it was only in 1611 when permanent parish priests were assigned. Yours truly, together with events organizer Bernard Supetran, travel blogger Mark Vincent Nunez (L.E.N.S.) and mediamen Mr. Joselito “Lito” Cinco and Ms. Kara Santos (Sunday Inquirer), were invited to cover the quadricentennial activities in these towns. All five of us met up at Starbucks in Magallanes Village in Makati City where our transportation and our hosts, Mr. Amable Miranda and Roufel “Raffy” de Vera of the Provincial Tourism Office awaited us.  We left the place by 5:30 PM and the 350-km. long-haul drive took all of 8 hrs., including stopovers for toilet breaks and dinner at a Chowking outlet in Quezon, snatching sleep in between.

Bulawan Museum

We arrived at Bagasbas Lighthouse Resort in Daet, our home during our 3-day stay in Camarines Norte, by 2 AM and were soon checked in and back on the sack.

Check out “Resort Review: Bagasbas Lighthouse Hotel Resort

Come morning, right after breakfast, we were picked up by Amable and Raffy to visit Bagasbas Park and the First Rizal Monument (unveiled on December 30, 1898) then meet up with Atty. Debbee G. Francisco, the Provincial Tourism Officer designate, at the Provincial Capitol as well as visit the Bulawan Museum with its collection of old photos, portraits of past governors, busts of local heroes, family heirloom pieces, numismatic collection and paintings.

Church of St. Peter the Apostle in Vinzons

From Daet, we moved on to Paracale where we were to attend its Pabirik Festival which showcases the rich mining industry of the town. We next left for Labo where we checked out the Museo de Labo, the Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist and a showcase of the town’s handicrafts.  After a few hours rest bit back at the resort, we proceeded to the town of Vinzons where we interviewed Fr. Francisco P. Regala, Jr., the parish priest of the town’s Church of St. Peter the Apostle, the oldest in the province (first built in 1611 by Fr. Juan de Losar and rebuilt at its present site in 1624).  Fr. Regala, narrated in detail, the town’s town’s quadricentennial plans on June 29, the town’s fiesta.  We capped this evening with dinner at the residence of Atty. Francisco where I stuffed myself full with angko, a glutinous, rice-based and thumb-size native delicacy with a filling of sweet, grounded peanuts.  We left right after this as we were scheduled to leave early in the morning for overnight camping at the Calaguas Islands.  That night it started to rain heavily.

Daet Heritage Center

That same heavy rain welcomed us early in the morning and a phone call confirmed our worst fears – the trip to the Calaguas Islands was cancelled.  Regretfully, we switched to Plan B – hiking to Nakali Falls in San Lorenzo Ruiz town, rain or shine.  The physically draining hike took all day. It was raining less the next day and all had lunch with Daet Mayor Tito S. Sarion at Golden Palace Restaurant followed by an ocular tour of the newly-established museum at the Daet Heritage Center (formerly the old municipal hall), a courtesy call to Gov. Edgardo Tallado at the Provincial Capitol and a farewell visit to Atty. Francisco who gifted us with daing, dried dilis (anchovies) and my favorite angko.  Amable and Raffy accompanied us on our return trip to Manila, with a delicious dinner stopover at Lita’s Carinderia along the way.  We made it back by midnight. Check out my Business Mirror article “Camarines Norte: 400 Years of Keeping the Faith.”

Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, Daet, Camarines Norte.  Tel: (054) 721-3087.  E-mail: come2camnorte@yahoo.com.

A Rainy Arrival in Daet (Camarines Norte)

After my short tour of the Camsur Watersports Complex, Mariefe brought me back to Pili Airport where my driver Mr. Melvic Brinas was already waiting for me.  It was already raining when I arrived at the airport.  The drive to Daet took all of 2 hours and, upon arrival, I was billeted at the resthouse of Gov. Jesus Typoco Jr., alongside Bagasbas Beach  Here, I was all by my lonesome inside a big bedroom but it had, in the succeeding days, a ringside view to all the surf festival’s proceedings along Bagasbas Beach.

A rainy morning outside Pili Airport Terminal

It was still raining when I arrived at Daet and it would continue to do so throughout the rest of the day.  DOT-OPRD project officer Ms. Val A. Congzon and Provincial Tourism Officer designate Mr. Edgardo Reyes were already on hand to welcome me.  Val, with her son Loven, just arrived earlier via a Superlines bus.  Her trip, normally just 8 hours, took much longer because of traffic.  As I had nothing else to do, I joined them for lunch at the  Golden Palace Restaurant located at the town proper.

It’s still raining in Daet town proper

After a filling lunch, I was toured around the town, visiting the First Rizal Monument.  Later, back at Bagasbas Beach, I met up with surf festival organizer Mr. Joey Cuerdo.  To him, I voiced out my concern about the rains continuing on to the next day, putting a damper on the festival activities which, aside from surfing, included wall climbing, beach volleyball and ultimate frisbee.  He assured me that it won’t, having checked the weather forecast for tomorrow via the internet.  I hope he’s right.

Come morning, the rains had stop and the sun was shining bright in the sky, just as Joey had said last night.  I again had breakfast at the Golden Palace Restaurant with Val, Ed, Loven and guests Jason and Michelle Carpio.  After breakfast, we returned to Bagasbas Beach where the surf festival was already in full swing. Other invited members of the media, accompanied by DOT media coordinator Mr. Boyet Escueta (whom I also met during the 2002 Kaogma Festival in naga City), were already there, brought in from Legaspi City (where their plane landed from Manila).  They were also billeted in the Municipal Guest House.