Category Archives: Metropolitan Manila

A Walking Tour of Escolta (Manila)

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I have been dying to do a walking tour of Escolta , Manila’s historic version of High Street. During the Spanish era, this short (less than a kilometer long) stretch was linedwith rows of camarines (1-storey Chinese shops). On his way to his office in Intramuros from Malacanang, the Spanish governor-general would usually pass here with his escolta (official escorts), hence the derivation of its name (from the Spanish word escortar meaning “to escort”).  Later, these camarines along Calle Escolta were replaced by bahay-na-bato  (stone houses) adorned with Neo-Classical elements such as Greek columns and caryatids and, towards the end of the Spanish regime, by European establishments, the only ones permitted to do business along the cobblestones (imported from Hong Kong) of this narrow, historic thoroughfare.

Escolta – A shadow of its former self

From the early 1900’s to the 1960s, Escolta was the country’s premier shopping mecca, with high-end stores such as La Estrella del Norte and Puerta del Sol, which marked the east and west entrances of Escolta.  It is also home to H.E. Heacocks and Oceanic (for fine household items);  Berg’s (for fashionable clothes);  Hamilton Brown and Walk-Over Shoe Store (for quality leather shoes); 2 high-class cinema theaters (Capitol and Lyric) which brought the glitz and glamour of Hollywood to Manila; restaurants (Henry’s Donuts, Max’s Fried Chicken, Dencia’s Pansit Malabon, Savory Restaurant, etc.); and Botica Boie (for mixed potent medicines).  Founded in 1830, the latter also served the best ice cream sodas, brewed coffee and clubhouse sandwiches in its glass-in mezzanine overlooking the street.  With the emergence of commercial and business districts of Makati City and Quezon City, the prestige of Escolta gradually faded.

The First United and Regina Buildings

Needing to buy some lighting fixtures along nearby Soler St., I decided to include a visit to Escolta  in my itinerary.  From Gil Puyat Ave., I took the LRT and dropped off at Carriedo Station.  The first notable piece of architecture I encountered was the Neo-Classical-style Don Roman R. Santos Building, fronting Plaza Lacson (formerly Plaza Goiti).  When the Japanese bombed the city during World War II, only 3 of its 5 floors were finished.  Luckily, it survived and the building was finished in 1957.  The building once housed the headquarters of Monte de Piedad and Prudential Bank and, later, a shopping mall (South Super Mart).  When the mall closed, Bank of the Philippine Islands (BPI) took over the building. Its entrance has Ionic columns with a triangular pediment, within which is a big clock flanked by bas-relief sculptures.

Don Roman R. Santos Building

Both ends of Escolta open into impressive open spaces  (Plaza Sta. Cruz and Plaza Moraga).  Though no longer the premier shopping district it used to be, strolling along Escolta is still a rewarding experience as one could still find traces of its glorious past.  Upon crossing the little Visita Bridge spanning Estero de la Reina, at the Sta. Cruz entrance of Escolta, I was attracted by 2 impressive, eye-catching (though marred by entangled electrical cables) buildings facing each other – the fancy, Art Deco-style First United Building and the elegant Beaux Arts-style Regina Building.

First United Building

The pink and white First United Building, formerly the Perez-Samanillo Building, is one of the few surviving examples of the Art Deco architectural style in Manila. Built in 1928 by Andres Luna de San Pedro (Juan Luna’s son), it’s awesome façade has a large amount of architectural and decorative elements.  Its central bay rises towards a crowning block rendered with a bas-relief of the Creation. Once described as Manila’s foremost business address, it prides itself with providing maximized space, abundant lighting and ventilation to its tenants.

Check out “First United Building“

Regina Building

The graceful, white Neo-Classical-style Regina Building, built in 1934, its design (with traces of Renaissance Revival) also attributed to Andres Luna de San Pedro, was originally designed as a 3-storey commercial building. A fourth floor was added by Arch. Fernando H. Ocampo (founder of the UST College of Architecture and designer of the UST Central Seminary and the 8th Manila Cathedral) when the de Leon family bought the building from the Roxases. The staff of the late Sen. Vicente Madrigal (grandfather of Sen. Jamby Madrigal) rented a suite in this building.  Also on the same floor, across the hall, was the office of Madrigal Shipping, then the world’s largest tramp steamship company.

Burke Building

Further out was the Burke Building, with its simple balance lines.  Built in 1919, it was named after the cardiologist William J. Burke who introduced and installed the first electrocardiograph in the country.  Also a philanthropist, he donated the land for the street (Calle David, renamed W. Burke St. in 1990).  The first Otis elevator in the Philippines was installed in this building.

Natividad Building

The charming, Beaux Arts-style Natividad Building, one of the most beautiful landmarks in the area, is one of the oldest buildings along Escolta.  It was burned during the 1945 Battle of Manila (leaving only its exterior shell) and was later restored.  In the 1950s, this building housed the office of the Insurance Commission.  Its alluring, ivory and white-colored facade, evocative of a French café in a Parisian neighborhood, has four levels alternately decorated with arched and square windows with cornices with tooth-like dentils underneath it.

Calvo Building

The stunning, Beaux Arts-style Calvo Building, built in 1938, was also designed by Arch. Fernando Ocampo.   This 4-storey building, with its  richly-decorated facade, once housed the Philippine Bank of Commerce, the popular MV Villar Records Store and the original radio station of Robert “Uncle Bob” Stewart’s Channel 7. On its roof deck was Luisa, a popular soda fountain. Today, Mercury Drug and Tropical Hut flank the entrance to the building, with Wah Yuen Hot Pot and Seafood Restaurant in its Calle Soda side. Its mezzanine  is home to the little-known Escolta Museum.

Check out “Escolta Museum” and “Calvo Building“

Across the street from the Calvo Building is the decaying and dilapidated shell of the majestic, Mesopotanian-inspired Art Deco-style Capitol Theater. Built in the 1935, this theater, designed by National Artist Arch. Juan Nakpil, had a seating capacity of 800 and an unusual double balcony.  Its lobby once mounted a beautiful wall mural by the late Filipino modernist and National Artist Victorio C. Edades. Now abandoned, it ceased operations in the late 1980s.

Capitol Theater

On the face of its western tower were bas-reliefs, evocative of Art Deco lines and curves, showing Filipinas (one holding a mask and another holding a lyre) in traje de mestiza frame and set in a tropical landscape, attributed to the Italian atelier of Francesco Ricardo Monti. The bigger, 1600-pax Lyric Theater, another Art Deco masterpiece designed by Modernist Arch. Pablo S. Antonio, was demolished in the early 1980s.

Burke Building: 321 W. Burke St., cor, Escolta St., Binondo, Manila

Calvo Building: 266 Escolta St. cor. Calle Soda, Binondo, Manila.  Tel: (632) 241-4762.

First United Building: 413 Escolta cor. David St., Binondo, Manila.

Natividad Building: Escolta cor. Tomas Pinpin St., Binondo Manila

Regina Building: W. Burke St., cor, Escolta St., Binondo, Manila

Roman S. Santos Building: Escolta cor. Yuchengco St., Binondo, Manila

A Walk Through Manila’s Chinatown

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After canvassing for lighting fixtures along Soler Street, I decided to explore Manila Chinatown via  the Arch of Goodwill Arch, a  Chinese archway (paifang) which marks the east end of Ongpin Street, named after Don Ramon Ongpin, a Chinese businessman who supported the Katipunan movement in 1896. The Arch of Goodwill, one of several which acts as a spatial marker to welcome visitors into a different cultural sphere, commemorates the friendship between the Filipino people and Chinese immigrants.

The Arch of Goodwill

The Arch of Goodwill

Manila’s 66-hectare Chinatown, located just across the Pasig River, opposite  the walled city of Intramuros, was originally for  Chinese Catholic converts only. In 1790, non-Christian Chinese were allowed to move into Chinatown. Our first Filipino saint, San Lorenzo Ruiz, was born in Binondo.

Ongpin Street

The terribly congested but colorful Ongpin Street, home to many gold and silver jewelry stores, herb-scented Chinese medicine shops, spacious restaurants, little teahouses and well-stocked groceries, is flanked at each end by the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz (Binondo Church) in the west and the Baroque-style National Shrine of the Perpetual Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament (Sta. Cruz Church) in the east.

A Chinese drugstore

A Chinese drugstore

Manila’s Chinatown, the oldest in the world (established in 1594), is known to the Filipinos as Binondo (derived from the Tagalog word binundok meaning “mountainous”), to the Filipino-Chinese community as Chi Lai (市内), a Hokkien term for “inner city,” and by tourists simply as Chinatown, a common reference to an area where there are a lots of Chinese and Chinese businesses. Most of the people in this district are of Hokkien ancestry as most of their ancestors are from Fujian province. My ancestor, Sing Lok, also from Fujian, arrived in the country in 1750. He later changed his surname to Locsin and adopted the Christian name of Agustin.

An Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli branch

An Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli branch

Chinese heritage and traditional Chinese institutions are very evident in Manila’s Chinatown and, once I passed the Arch of Goodwill, I began to find icons, institutions and features typical of most Chinatowns. Unlike in other parts of the city, the horse-drawn calesa is still alive and well here.Unlike the Chinatowns I have visited in other Southeast Asian cities, this one in Manila is really very busy on Sundays.

A sidewalk fruit stall

A sidewalk fruit stall

The street signs in Chinatown, some decorated with dragons, are also often bilingual and sometimes trilingual. with Filipino, English and Traditional Chinese script.  Even signages are bilingual, as businesses here cater to the cultural and religious needs of the Filipino-Chinese population. Restaurants offer a wide range of Chinese food while other shops offer the latest CDs VCDs from China, Hong Kong and Taiwan, religious goods and festive fruits that are in season.

A Chinese gift shop

A Chinese gift shop

A long time (since 1912) fixture in Chinatown is Eng Bee Tin Chinese Deli, reputed to be the home of the best-tasting hopia (a popular Filipino bean filled pastry) in country.  It has a number of stores in Chinatown, selling 22 variants of hopia, including ube, nangka, buco pandan (my favorite) and cheese variations.  Some bakeshops even carry their hopia products. They also sell other traditional Chinese delicacies such as tikoy, glutinous balls and ube pao.

The calesa is alive and well here

The calesa is alive and well here

Chinatown is known for the having the best volunteer fire-fighting unit in the city, the residents’ response to the frequent fires that strike their community. Their fire engines, often sponsored by individuals or organizations, are highly visible all over the district. Eng Bee Tin has also set up Txtfire, the largest volunteer firefighting organization in the Philippines (with more than 4,500 affiliate firefighters nationwide), and have donated 10 ube (violet)-colored fire trucks, one of which I saw parked beside Binondo Church.

An ube-colored fire truck donated by Eng Bee Tin

An ube-colored fire truck donated by Eng Bee Tin

A street-side temple with an altar was also built along Tomas Pinpin Street. Here, people come to light at least 3 joss or incense sticks (hui), make offerings or donations, recite a prayer to the venerated image of Sto. Cristo de Longos (a miraculous crucifix found by a deaf and mute Chinese in an old well in Longos), make a prayer request, then take two crescent-shaped jiaobei blocks (or moon blocks) and throw it to answer a yes (identical faces) or no ((opposing figures) question.  Truly an intriguing fusion of Roman Catholicism and Buddhism.

A roadside shrine dedicated to Sto. Cristo de Longos

A roadside shrine dedicated to Sto. Cristo de Longos

As I strolled and enjoy the proverbial sights, sounds and smell of Chinatown, I knew that I have reached the district’s boundaries as I saw another Chinese archway at Ongpin North Bridge.

Ongin North Bridge Arch

Ongin North Bridge Arch

Carriedo Fountain (Manila)

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Carriedo Fountain

The National Shrine of the Perpetual Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament, more popularly known as Sta. Cruz Church, is surrounded by three open spaces which, in the 1900s, came to be known as downtown Manila – Plaza Sta. Cruz in front, Plaza Goiti at the rear, and a wide street on the right leading to Calle Escolta. The centerpiece of the 1-hectare Plaza Sta. Cruz is the 19th century the Spanish-era Carriedo Fountain (Fuente Carriedo).

Check out “National Shrine of the Perpetual Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament“

Built in May 1882 (at a cost of 745,590 pesos) as part of the Carriedo water works system, it was inaugurated by Governor-General Fernando Primo de Rivera on July 24, 1882. The fountain was built in honor of Don Francisco Carriedo y Peredo (November 7, 1690 – September 1743), 18th-century Capitán General of Manila, who conceived of and eventually funded Manila’s pipe water system.

The centerpiece of the fountain

A Basque from Santander, Spain and general of the Santa Familia galleon, Carriedo raised funds for the construction of the water system of Manila and donated 10,000 pesos drawn from his fortune from the Manila- Acapulco trade. However, he did not live to see his resolve of creating a water system in Manila take fruit.

The lower pedestal and vasque

The fountain was moved three times before its current location at Plaza Santa Cruz, right in front of the Santa Cruz Church. Since Don Francisco resided in Santa Mesa, the fountain was first located at the Rotonda de Sampaloc, the intersection between Legarda, Lacson and Magsaysay streets which today forms the  Nagtahan Interchange that separates Sampaloc from Santa Mesa.

The upper pedestal and vasque

In 1976, due to traffic concerns, the roundabout was cleared and the fountain was then transferred to the Balara Filters Park, in front of the Metropolitan Waterworks and Sewerage System (MWSS) Building right after MWSS moved from their office in Arroceros, Manila, in the latter part of the 1970s.

Seated female figure holding a harp

In the 1990s, then-Manila Mayor Alfredo Lim convinced MWSS administrator Mr. Luis E. V. Sison to bring back the Carriedo Fountain to Manila. A replica of the original fountain, using plaster as the primary material, was built by National Artist Napoleon Abueva.

Cherub sitting on an urn

Two bas reliefs of cherubs, sitting on a shell-like basin, holding tridents. The water spout is between them

During our visit, the fountain wasn’t operating and the stagnant water in the basin was littered with floating garbage and green with algae.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

This Classical-style fountain features a large circular basin to hold the water at the center of which is a pedestal with statues of four cherubs holding urns. The pedestal is also decorated by bas reliefs of 4 pairs of cherubs, seated on shell-like basins, holding tridents.

The words “A Carriedo” (the letter “A” is a mystery) and “Manila” (below it) are also engraved around this pedestal.

The pedestal supports a large vasque, above which is another smaller pedestal supporting a smaller vasque. Around the smaller pedestal are four bas reliefs of bearded heads (probably depicting Neptune, the Roman god of freshwater and the sea).

Above these heads are four seated female figures, one is holding a trident and the other a harp. This set up is reminiscent of the Statue of Queen Anne at St. Paul’s Churchyard in London (England) which has the seated female figures representing England with a trident; Ireland with a harp; France with a truncheon and a crown; and North America holding a bow and arrow with a quiver at her back, her right foot resting on a severed head.

Above the smaller vasque is an urn-like finial. Water spouts from the top of this finial,   at water spouts between the two trident-wielding cherubs; the urns of the cherubs; the side of the bigger vasque and the inner perimeter of the circular basin.

The words “A Carriedo” and “Manila” engraved on the pedestal

Carriedo Fountain: Plaza Santa Cruz, Manila

Calvo Building (Escolta, Manila)

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Calvo Building

The historic Calvo Building, an outstanding example of Beaux Arts architecture, is one of the remaining buildings from the earlier part of the 20th century along Escolta Street. It was designed by architect and civil engineer Fernando H. Ocampo, Sr. (of Arguille & Ocampo Architects) and inaugurated on August 14, 1938 on the land owned by the couple Angel Calvo and real estate businesswoman Emiliana Mortera Calvo.

Plaque installed by National Historical Commission of the Philippines in 2018

On November 1944, during World War II, it was temporarily used by Japanese Imperial Forces and was destroyed during the 1945 Battle of Manila and restored in 1946. On August 14, 2018, a historical marker (entitled Gusaling Calvo) was installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.

Cartouche above the arched window

This 4-storey building was one of the most prestigious business addresses of its time.  Its tenants were:

  • Philippine Bank of Commerce (ground floor)
  • Lissar Commercial (ground floor)
  • Aquino-Lichauco Law Offices (second floor)
  • Offices of Araneta & Co. (third floor)
  • MV Villar Records Store – then Manila’s biggest vinyl record bar
  • Sabater Optical
  • Mareco Broadcasting – owner of 105 Crossover FM
  • Mabuhay Records – a recording company that produced albums for kundiman legends Ruben Tagalog, Sylvia dela Torre and Pilita Corrales
  • Sorriente-Santos Department Store – the first store that introduced the “buy-one-take-one” selling strategy.
  • Luisa & Son (roof deck) – a pre-war soda fountain popular with Manila’s high society.

The truncated corner

On March 1, 1950, the GMA Kapuso Network was also born at a makeshift studio at the fourth floor of the building (before moving to its present location in Diliman, Quezon City) when former American war correspondent for United Press Robert “Uncle Bob” Stewart (who eventually fell in love with a Filipina and the country as a whole) transmitted the first signal of  Republic Broadcasting System, now radio station DZBB-AM. Stewart would later expand his media enterprise into television, and Radio Broadcasting System would later be renamed GMA.

Today, Uno Seafood Wharf Palace, Mercury Drug and Tropical Hut flank the entrance to the building, with Wah Yuen Hot Pot and Seafood Restaurant in its Calle Soda side.

Old pre-World War II photo of Calvo Building without its fourth floor

Its mezzanine is home to the little-known Escolta Museum which contains memorabilia from the past.  During the post-war years, a fourth floor was added to the three-storey edifice.

Check out “Escolta Museum”

The ground floor lobby

Its front being a flagstop for the tranvia (electric tram line), it is the only building along Escolta that is pushed back. It house one of the few classic-style and rare, manually operated Otis elevators.

The richly-decorated and stunning facade at the second level has arched windows (except at the truncated corner) flanked by Ionic pilasters, above which is a cornice embellished by garlands and gracefully broken, in alternating sections, by cartouches supported by corbels above the window’s arch.

Photo of Don Angel Calvo

Calvo Building: 266 Escolta cor. Soda Sts., Binondo, Manila. Coordinates: 14.597141°N 120.978221°E.

How to Get There: The building is accessible from the LRT1-Carriedo station. The Pasig Ferry also has an Escolta stop.

A Tour of Valenzuela City

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After the video documentary presentation on the life of Dr. Pio Valenzuela, I requested museum curator Mr. Jonathan C. Balsamo for a tour of the city’s historical sites using their open pickup.  Sandy, Mark, Ronnie and Violeta  joined us.  Jandy and Violeta stayed inside the pickup’s airconditioned cabin while Mark, Sandy, Jonathan, Ronnie and I rode on the open cargo area as we traversed the city’s very narrow streets exposed to the hot, late morning sun.

Arkong Bato

Our first stopover was at Arkong Bato (Spanish for “stone arch”), along the only road that links MacArthur Highway with the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX).  This arch was built in 1910 along the old national road passing through the old town of Polo before the construction of MacArthur Highway.  It formerly marked the boundary of Rizal (where Malabon formerly belonged) and Bulacan (where Polo formerly belonged).  Today, it marks the boundary between Brgy. Santulan (Malabon City) and Brgy. Arkong Bato (Valenzuela City).

San Gabriel House
The former Valenzuela City Emergency Hospital

We next proceeded to the old town proper and made a stopover at Liwasang Rizal, the old town plaza with its own simplified replica of the Rizal Monument (its base somewhat shorter because the plaza’s grounds were elevated through the years).  Surrounding it are the old town hall (now home to the former Valenzuela City Emergency Hospital), the San Diego De Alcala Church and the old but still wonderfully preserved, 2-storey San Gabriel house (now home to Aida Carinderia).  The latter has capiz sliding windows, intricate woodwork and double roofs typical of houses built during the Spanish and American eras.  This house should be added to the list of the city’s tourist attractions.

Church of San Diego Alcala Ruins

Beside the church are the ruins of the oldest church in Valenzuela, built by Fr. Juan Taranco and Don Juan Monsod and later expanded and completed by Fr. Jose Valencia, aided by Capt. Juan Tibay, in 1632.  In 1852, the church was fully repaired and remodelled by Fr. Vicente but was razed to the ground during World War II.  Only the octagonal bell tower and the arched main entrance have been preserved.

Gabaldon-style building of Pio Valenzuela Elementary School

From the church, we also walked to the nearby American-era, Gabaldon (named after Assemblyman Isauro Gabaldon of Nueva Ecija, author of Act No. 1801, better known as the Gabaldon Act)-style schoolhouse of Pio Valenzuela Elementary School, one of a number of heritage schoolhouses, built in the Philippines between 1907 and 1946, that follow standard plans designed by American Arch. William Parsons.

Church of San Roque

Back to our pickup, we next proceeded to the San Roque Church which dates to 1763.  The church facade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by statue niches and twin bell towers with pyramidal roofs.  The wall above the triangular pediment as well as the wings on the sides of the church are probably modern additions.  Our last destination in our city tour was the 2-storey Pio Valenzuela House.  The original house was, together with its antique furniture, razed during World War II.

Dr. Pio Valezuela House

The marker in front of the house erroneously identifies it as the birthplace of Dr. Pio.  He was actually born in Brgy. Tagalag, its actual location already unknown even to his relatives.  This house was where Dr. Pio lived and died.  Only a caretaker lives here.  The grounds of the house were partly flooded, a result of it being situated on one of the lowest parts of the city.  Valenzuela City is located on swampy land crisscrossed by rivers.

Historical Marker

Arkong Bato: Brgy. Arkong Bato
San Roque Church: Brgy. Mabolo
Pio Valenzuela House: Velilla St., Brgy. Pariancillo Villa

Museo Valenzuela (Valenzuela City)

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I recently got an invitation from Lakbay Norte colleague and now La Consolacion College School of International Hospitality Management Prof. Melissa  Dizon-Dulalia to join a Lakbay-Aral tour of Valenzuela City with her students as guests of City Mayor Sherwin T. Gatchalian.  I brought along, as my photographer, my son Jandy.  We met up with Melissa and her students at La Consolacion College where a chartered airconditioned Genesis bus was waiting for us to bring us to Valenzuela City.    

Museo Valenzuela

Aside from the Melissa’s 42 Tourism Planning and Destination Development Class students, joining us were fellow media colleague Mr. Rogine de Mata Rogelio of Pilipino Mirror; travel photographer Nico Karabatsos; travel agents Mr. Sandy Mella Clamor (Managing Director of Emmaus Travel & Tours) and Ms. Bingbing Rubio (Pogi Travels); and Ms. Violeta  C. Imperial (founder of Nature Awareness & Conservation Club, Inc.).

Mayor Sherwin Gatchalian with media and travel agents
Mayor Gatchalian with La Consolacion College students

We all left La Consolacion College by 8:45 AM and arrived at the 2-storey Museo Valenzuela, beside the National Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima, by 9:20 AM.  Here, we were joined by my good friend and fellow travel blogger Mr. Mark Vincent Nunez (www.mvlnunez.blogspot.com) and travel agent and Valenzuela City resident Ms. Rosanna Kho (Gen. Manager of Kho Travel & Tours).  

Museum curator Jonathan C. Balsamo

At the museum, we were welcomed by museum curator and historian Mr. Jonathan C. Balsamo who presented a video documentary, created by the City Cultural Affairs and Tourism Development Office (CATDO), featuring historical experts’ commentary on the life of local son and least depicted national hero Dr. Pio Valenzuela (July 11, 1869-April 6, 1956), Katipunan co-founder (together with Andres Bonifacio and Emilio Jacinto), mayor of Polo (the former name of the city) from September 6, 1899-February 1900 and Bulacan governor from 1921-1925.  The city was renamed after him on September 11, 1963.

Diorama – Pagkamakabayan and Paglilingkod
Diorama – Pagkamulat and Pagkilala

The museum, which gives public access on factual information on Dr. Pio, is among the major efforts of Mayor Gatchalian to prevent Dr. Pio’s deeds from dying in vain.  It has a bust sculpture of Dr. Pio and a permanent, full-dimensional diorama exhibit, opened last March 16, 2010, of the life of Dr. Valenzuela during and after the Philippine Revolution. The 150 hand-made dolls, fashioned out of resin and wire, were created by artists of the Balikatan sa Kaunlaran National Foundation, the same team behind the Pinaglabanan diorama exhibited at the Museo ng Katipunan in San Juan City. Also on display are the doctor’s memorabilia (clothes, old photos, awards, medical equipment, furniture, etc.).

Pio Valenzuela and wife Marciana de Castro
Dr. Pio’s clothes
The doctor’s medical equipment
Dr. Pio’s swivel chair

It also exhibits paintings of past Valenzuela mayors and a model of San Diego de Alcala Church.  Serving as the cultural and historical center of the city, the museum is also the repository of Valenzuela City’s rich heritage and provides a venue for cultural, historical and artistic presentations as well as seminars on national and local issues.

A picture gallery of Valenzuela mayors
Model of Church of San Diego Alcala

Museo Valenzuela: Fatima Ave., Brgy. Marulas, Valenzuela City, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 291-0672.

Philippine Air Force Aerospace Museum – Indoor Exhibits (Pasay City)

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While waiting for my father-in-law’s arrival from Kalibo (Aklan) at the NAIA 3 Terminal, I decided to kill time at the nearby Philippine Air Force Museum.  I have visited this museum before, but only got to explore, with Jandy, the 16 “retired” planes and helicopters at the museum’s outdoor Aircraft Park.  The indoor exhibit was just one hour to closing time during that visit.

Philippine Air Force Aerospace Museum

This military heritage and science technology museum was established way back on May 2, 1974 (as the Marcos Museum) but it only opened at its new location on July 1, 2001.  The world-class museum building was inaugurated on June 29, 2007, the 60th foundation anniversary of the PAF.  Surprisingly, this tidy, neat and quite impressive, 2-level museum, a good 2-hr. diversion for those who are also waiting for their plane connections, had a number of weekday visitors.

Science and Technology Section

The Science and Technology Section, at the ground floor, is highlighted by by an indoor static aircraft of various eras  – from pre-World War II to the present – all immaculately restored.  Of World War II vintage is a single-engine, 2-seater, open cockpit and fabric-covered Boeing PT-13D “Kaydet” (also known as Stearman Model 75) primary trainer biplane, a standardized U.S. Army/Navy trainer aircraft created by Boeing-Stearman from 1943-45.  Before World War II, the Philippine Army Air Corps (now the PAF) had Stearman model 73L3 trainers and the armed 76D version.  As part of the U.S. Military Defense Assistance Program (MDAP), the PAF Flying School acquired 50 PT-13/PT-17 “Kaydets.”

PT-13D “Kaydet”

The one on display is PT-13D “Kaydet” 76-7551 code 551 equipped with a 220-HP Lycoming R-680-17 radial engine (max. speed: 125 mph) and fitted with a ground-adjustable McCauley steel black propeller.  The aircraft has a 32-ft., 2-in. wing span and is 24 ft. 10 in. long and 9 ft. 2 in. high.

P-51D “Mustang”

Also of World War II vintage is a propeller-driven  P-51D “Mustang” fighter, manufactured by North American Aviation, the best fighter aircraft of World War II.  Around 100 of these fast and maneuverable aircraft, with 6 wing-mounted guns, were delivered to country in 1952 and assigned to the 6th Tactical Fighter Squadron, 5th Fighter Wing in Basa Air Base (Floridablanca, Pampanga).

SF-260

Beside it is a modern, Italian-made SIAI Marchetti SF-260, a light military trainer with low wings and tricycle undercarriage that is still in use.  The PAF acquired 2 variants in 1967 and initially received 2 SIAI Marchetti SF-260 operated by 102nd Training Squadron (now the PAF Flying School). The one on display had a tail number 15-44 and bore a tactical code 644.  Aside from being used by the flying school, it is also used for counter-insurgency roles.

“Cali” Super Pinto

Also on display are PAF experimental projects presented in ways to inspire young generations of Filipinos to learn on aerospace-related sciences. Of special interest is a prototype of the “Cali” Super Pinto, the first indigenous jet trainer and light attack aircraft in the country.  This turbojet-propelled, mid-monoplane aircraft has a TEMCO model TT-1 Pinto air frame with 2-place tandem seating.

U.S. space capsule
Replica of Wright Brothers’ 1902 glider

Suspended on the ceiling is a locally-made, full scale model of the Wright Brothers’ 1902 glider  and a U.S. space capsule.  The Science and Technology Section also exhibits aircraft mock-ups and miniatures. There is also a souvenir shop on this floor.

Dodge WC-57 Command Car
A row of ejection seats
Canopy and ejection seat systems

Also within this floor is a Dodge WC-57 Command Car (used by former Philippine presidents);  armament and gun system of a Northrop F-5A; F-86F nose landing gear system; canopy and ejection seats (F-86F “Sabrejet,” F-4 “Phantom” and F-5A “Freedom Fighter”); a portable rescue hoist and jet engines.  Kids may sit in the cockpit of an F-86D fighter jet simulator.

Hiroo Onoda Exhibit
Wall of Heroes
Evolution of PAF Uniforms

The Heritage Section, at the second floor of the museum, presents a variety of galleries displaying different military uniforms and their evolution (Evolution of PAF Uniforms); flying gear; dioramas and sand tables of important events involving the Air Force (Dioramas/PAF Model Aircraft); model planes, memorabilia, vintage guns, locally made bombs; a display of things left by Japanese straggler Lt. Hiroo Onoda while hiding in the jungles of Lubang in Mindoro; and skilled drawings and paintings of early military aviation and PAF history.

Past Commanding Generals of the PAF

There are also photographs of past commanding generals of the Philippine Air Force; recipients of the Philippine Medal of Valor and Distinguished Conduct Star (Wall of Heroes); old photographs depicting the history of the Air Force and its Blue Diamonds aerobatics team (Birth of Philippine Aviation) and a photo exhibit of the historic May 29, 1936 Arnacal (short for the names of Filipino pilots Antonio Arnaiz and Juan Calvo) flight from Manila to Madrid (Spain).

Photo exhibit of Arnacal flight

This floor also has a 150-200-pax function room for seminars, workshops, symposia, expositions and other cultural activities, plus a 45-pax mini-theater for small group film showings.\

Philippine Air Force Aerospace Museum: Gozar cor. Alia St., Col. Jesus Villamor Air Base, Pasay City.   Open Mondays to Fridays, 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturdays, 8 AM to 12 noon. Admission is free.  Tel: (632) 832-3498, 854-6729 and 762-6628.

A Stroll in Paco Park

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After dropping off Cheska at ACTS (where  she was taking review classes for her Med Tech board exam), I decided, on my way home, to drop by historic Paco Park.  Getting there proved to be difficult for me as I had to make my way around a maze of one-way streets.  I decided to park my car just a few blocks away and walk the remaining distance.

Paco Park

Just about everybody, couch potato or not, is familiar, one way or the other, with the TV program “Paco Park Presents.” The concert was begun by Dr. Christoph Jessen (Press and Cultural Attache of the Federal Republic of Germany) with the late National Park Development Committee (NPDC) Vice-Chairman and journalist Teodoro “Doroy” Valencia on February 29, 1980 as a part of the celebration of Philippine-German Month and a gala tribute for then outgoing German ambassador Wolfgang Eger. The “Paco Park Presents” classical concert became a tradition and it now presents  chamber, traditional and pop music performed for free by the finest international and local solo artists, duets and small ensembles at an improvised outdoor stage. Truly a unique way of bringing classical music, via intimate, open-air concerts, to the masses.

Park entrance

I have been to the park a couple of times before as two of my siblings, my elder brother Frank (to the former Rosario “Cherry” Correa on December 17, 1978) and youngest sister Tellie (on December 27, 1982) as well as my good friend and fellow architect, Ed Yambao (to the former Gloria “Glo” Pagsanghan also on the same date as my sister) got married in the park’s St. Pancratius (named after a 14 year old martyr of the 4th century) Chapel. My late parents also renewed their marriage vows there during their silver wedding anniversary on the same day Frank got married.

Historical Research and Markers
Committee plaque
National Historical Shrine plaque

Why do people marry at a place that was once a home for the dead? Haven’t they heard of the often-mentioned warning that marriages made in such a place live but a short life? Couples don’t seem to mind at all even if the receptions are held besides rows of empty, gaping niches.  For me, it must be this recreational garden area’s atmosphere of peace and tranquility.  I featured this cemetery in my first book, “A Philippine Odyssey: A Collection of Featured Travel Articles” (New Day Publishers, 2005) under the heading “Presenting Paco Park.”
The Outer Cemetery

This 4,114.8 sq. m. circular park, one of the oldest landmarks of Manila, is located at Paco District, a nondescript commercial and residential area east of Taft Ave..  Formerly called San Fernando de Dilao, Paco was the Catalan nickname for Francisco and was presumably adapted by the natives to refer to the Franciscan friars who ran the parish.  The park was originally a cemetery built in 1807, through an administrative order, according to the plan of maestro de obras Nicolas Ruiz.  It was completed on April 22, 1822 under the supervision of Don Jose Coll.  The cemetery was, however, already in use two years before its completion to accommodate victims of the cholera epidemic which broke out 3 days after a strong October 1, 1820 typhoon ravaged the city.

Doves by the ticket booth

The epidemic was falsely rumored to have been caused by the poisoning of the Pasig River and the local wells by the foreign merchants, businessmen and scientists then residing in the city.  As a result, persons and property of said foreigners were attacked by violent Filipino mobs affected by this malady.  Casualties were 1 Chinese, 1 Spaniard, 12 French, 1 British captain, 1 American Marine guard, 2 Danes and 12 British and American sailors. Through energetic measures, the epidemic was under control in less than a month. Dominican friars excelled themselves in attending to the sick and, in grateful recognition of their services, 9 of the niches in the cemetery were donated to them by the city of Manila.

The Gomburza Memorial

In 1859, the cemetery was enlarged to 4,540 varas cuadradas (approximately  4,500 square yards) and enclosed with a circular stone wall by Gov.-Gen. Fernando de Norzagaray y Escudero (1856-59). A Chinese builder won the contract to build the circular stone wall of this cemetery for PhP19,700.  The cemetery used to have a chaplain (who lived across the site now occupied by the Paco Fire Station), a sacristan and 8 caretakers.

Gomburza Memorial plaque

At that time, the niches cost PhP20 for three years subject to renewal.  No one was allowed to own the niches in perpetuity.  Niches in the inner wall were reserved as exclusive burial places for prominent Spaniards.  Norzagaray’s successor, acting Gov.-Gen. Ramon Solano y Llanderal (1859-60), was buried in a now unknown site inside the mortuary chapel.

Jose Rizal Grave Site

The cemetery was the burial site of Frs. Mariano Gomez, Jose Burgos and Jacinto Zamora, the triumvirate of Filipino priests unjustly implicated in the January 20-22, 1872 Cavite Mutiny.  They were executed by garrote (a strangulation machine) at sunrise of February 17 at the Luneta (now Rizal Park) in Bagumbayan.  All three were buried in an unmarked grave near the outer wall but the site has not been located up to now.  Instead, a memorial was installed on February 17, 1898.

Grave Site plaque

After the execution of our National Hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, also in the Luneta at dawn of December 30, 1896, the Spanish authorities, fearful of public unrest (and of his followers removing his remains and establishing a cult), secretly buried him also near the outer wall.  Rizal’s sisters fanned out in search of his remains and found them at the cemetery.  The mismarked tombstone, with the initials R.P.J., was said to have been the result of the sisters’ bribing a guardia civil veterana (who guarded the spot for 15 days) to mark the spot. Rizal’s remains were exhumed on August 17, 1898, placed in an urn made by Teodoro Romualdo de Jesus and deposited at the house of Rizal’s mother at Estraude St. in Binondo.

Elaborate niche of Margarita Miguel
de Cobarrubias (September 1, 1907)

The last burials here were in 1912 (the same year Rizal was finally laid to his rest at its present monument in Rizal Park) and the cemetery fell into disrepair, its empty, semicircular niches hollow reminders for the purpose they once served. During World War II, the park, with its thick adobe walls, was used by Japanese forces as a central supply and ammunition depot.  They dug several trenches and constructed pillboxes with 75 mm. guns. In 1948, proposals were made to convert the cemetery into a park.  Unclaimed remains were transferred to the Manila South Cemetery’s paupers’ lot. Through the guidance of Doroy Valencia, its beautification and restoration was done by renowned landscape architect Ildefonso “IP” Santos.  In 1966, it was made into a national park.

The more common semicircular niche
(Timoteo  de los Angeles, June 3, 1910, 53 years old)

The park has two concentric walls, along which are rows of niches hollowed out of aging adobe for the bones of the dead and separated by a 14.5 m. wide walkway.   The wall niches used to be 5 tiers high but only 3 tiers are visible today as its floor was raised due to flooding in some parts.  Before, Paco district was a reclaimed swampland with non-existent drainage (sewers were only installed during the early 20th century).  The cemetery then was a muddy catch basin for rainwater.  I.P Santos elevated the middle portion of the park so that the water flowed outwards.   He was sharply criticized for this.

Gate leading to the ossuary

Strolling around the outer wall, you will espy the original Rizal grave (with its white cross with the initials R.P.J.) as well as the Gomburza memorial.  At the back of the St. Pancratius Chapel is an arch with a wrought iron gate leading to the Ossorio (ossuary), an enclosed burial site for infants and babies. Flights of steps on either side of the gate lead to an interconnecting upper promenade.  There are 2 other ossorios beside it, all with walls decorated with intricate stone carvings of festoons and angels.  In spite of their otherworldly air, these places seem to be favorite tambayans (hangouts) of students.

Flight of stairs leading to upper promenade

The inner cemetery can be entered via an elaborate main stone-columned archway whose triangular pediment has a sign with the Latin inscription “Beatimortui qui in Domino Moriuntur – John in 14:13 Apoc.” (“Blessed are those who die in the Lord”).  Inside the inner courtyard, one is greeted by a romantic setting of a 3-tiered circular fountain, the small oval, domed St. Pancratius Chapel, 8 century-old, widespreading acacia trees (Samarea saman), wondrously gnarled white kalachuchi trees and pocket gardens with park benches.

Entrance to Inner Cemetery

The inner courtyard’s focal point is the St. Pancratius Chapel, now under the care of the Vincentian Fathers (who manage the nearby Adamson University). Formerly a mausoleum for Spanish elite during the first half of the 19th century, this chapel, done in the Classical style, has a stone dome, stone walls dressed in velvety growths of lichen, moss and creepers, triangular pediment from which hangs a bell and a cross.

Inner Cemetery

On each side of the main entrance, I counted 31 bays with 9 niches per bay.   My estimate is there were once 2,790 niches within the inner courtyard alone of which only 1,674 are exposed.  Fourteen of these still have their burial plaques dating from 1898 to 1913 (?).   On both flanks of chapel are two side entrances leading to the outer wall and two beautiful stairs leading to an interconnected 2-m. wide (the width is dictated by the length of the burial niche underneath) upper open terrace with stone balustrades.

St. Pancratius Chapel

Filipino eskrima (stick martial arts called arnis in the West) practitioners also hone their traditional fighting skills within the park and the Arnis Combat Kiathson System Philippines (they offer eskrima lessons) is based here.

The 3-tiered circular fountain

Paco Park: Gen. Luna St. (at the east end of Padre Faura St.), Paco District, Manila.  Open daily (except Wednesdays), 8 AM-5 PM.  Admission: PhP5. The “Concert at the Park” is held every Friday, at sunset. Schedule of masses at St. Pancratius Chapel (Sundays & holidays): 10 AM, 11 AM, 5 PM & 6 PM, also 9 AM every 12th day of the month).  Wedding arrangements at St. Vincent de Paul Parish Office, 959 San Marcelino St., Ermita, Manila.  Tel: 527-7853 7 524-2022 local 101.

How to Get There:  Take a jeepney along Taft Ave. and alight at Escoda St..  From there, you can walk towards the park.

Philippine Air Force Aerospace Museum – Aircraft Park (Pasay City)

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After attending an exhibit of Jandy’s Asia Pacific College Multi-Media Arts classmates at Villamor Air base, we dropped by the Philippine Air Force Aerospace Museum which we passed just before the base guardhouse.  We didn’t have time to explore the indoor museum exhibit, but we did checked out the Outdoor Aircraft Park where we got up close and personal with some 16 actual aircraft, 13 airplanes (1 presidential) and 3 helicopters (1 presidential), that became part of Philippine Air Force history.

Outdoor Aircraft Park

Five of planes surround the monument to Col. Jesus Antonio Villamor (November 7, 1914-October 28, 1971), a World War II major in the Philippine Army Air Corps, 6th Pursuit Squadron and a two-time recipient of the U.S. Distinguished Service Cross plus the Philippine Medal of Valor.  He shot down two Japanese planes during World War II.  His first kill, with his obsolete Boeing P-26 “Peashooter” fighter, was a navy carrier-based Mitsubishi “Zero” A6M fighter over Zablan Field on December 10, 1941 and his second, two days later, was a Mitsubishi “Nell” G3M navy attack bomber over at Batangas.  The Col. Jesus Villamor Airbase, formerly Nichols Field in Pasay City, was renamed after him in 1982.

Col. Jesus Villamor Monument

The T-6 “Texan” (with body number 662), manufactured by North American Aviation, was acquired in 1948 to serve the Basic School Squadron in Floridablanca Air Base (now Basa Air Base in Pampanga) as a advance flying trainer.  In 1958, it was replaced by the T-28 “Trojan” as the basic trainer for the PAF Flying School.

T-6 “Texan”

The T-28 “Trojan,” locally called “Tora-Tora” (because of its resemblance to the World War II Japanese “Zero” fighter), was manufactured by North American Aviation.  In 1960, 15 of these aircraft were acquired for the 100th Training Wing for the use of cadet pilots in flight training.  In 1975, it was used by the 15th Strike Wing against secessionists and insurgents.  It became famous during the August 1987 and December 1989 coup attempts.  It was retired on July 1992 during the 45th PAF anniversary.

T-28 “Trojan”

The F-86D “Sabrejet” (body number 140), manufactured by North American Aviation, was distinguishable from other F-86 models by its introduction of the concept of gunless collision-course interception.  This all-weather jet interceptor can fly at night or during bad weather and engage the enemy using radar.   Acquired by the PAF from the U.S. in 1960, it was used by the 8th Interceptor Squadron for air defense functions but was phased out in 1968.

F-86D “Sabrejet”

The F-86F “Sabrejet” (body number 468), manufactured by North American Aviation, was referred to as the “Magnificent Machine,” “MIG Killer” and the “Sports car of the Sky.”  It first saw combat in the Korean War and had a kill ration of 15 to 1 over the Russian-made MIG-15.  The PAF’s first jet fighter, 30 of these aircraft arrived from the U.S. on August 31, 1957 through the RP-US Military Assistance Program.  From 1957 to 1964, it was also used by the Blue Diamonds Team in aerobatic demonstrations.  It was phased out in 1979.

The F-86F “Sabrejet”

The needle-nosed F-5A “FreedomFighter,” manufactured by Northrop Corporation, arrived in the country on August 29, 1965.  Assigned to the 5th Fighter Wing in Basa Air Base in Floridablanca (Pampanga) as a front line fighter, this aircraft was also used by the Blue Diamonds in aerial demonstrations during significant national, AFP and PAF celebrations.

F-5A “Freedom Fighter”

The F-8H “Crusader” (body number 313), manufactured by Vought Crusader, was delivered to the country in 1978. This carrier-based fighter has variable incidence wings, all-weather radar autopilot and a sophisticated weapons delivery system.  Used by the 5th Fighter Wing for air defense, surveillance and reconnaissance missions, it can be equipped with various weapons such as air-to-air missiles, rockets, 20 mm. cannons, M-60 machine guns and 500-lb. bombs.

F-8H “Crusader”

The T-33 “Shooting Star” (body number 806), a jet trainer (popularly called “T-Bird”) manufactured by Lockheed, was the outgrowth of the Lockheed F-80, the first jet fighter, and was the world’s most widely used jet trainer.  Acquired in 1955, it ushered the PAF into the jet age and was used by the 5th Fighter Wing for jet qualification, instrument training and proficiency flying.

T-33 “Shooting Star”

The HU-16 “Albatross,” a general utility amphibian manufactured by the Grumman Aircraft Corporation, was assigned, in 1971, to the 505th Search and Rescue Squadron under the 205th Airlift Wing. Its favorable peculiarity (triphibian landing gear) and its all metal, V-shaped hull gave it more capability to perform water rescue operations as it had the power to take off and land both in water and land.

UH-16 “Albatross”

The C-47 “Dakota” (or “Skytrain”), the most famous commercial transport plane in the world, was manufactured by the Douglas Aircraft Corporation.  Fondly called the “Gooney Bird” in the military service, it was given to the Philippine Army Air Corps (PAAC) for air transport operations. In 1973, it was converted into a fighting aircraft, with machine guns electronically operated and controlled by the pilot.

It was also used by the PAF Weather Reconnaissance Squadron for rainmaking and rain suppression operations.  The 303rd Aerial Recon Squadron used it for photo mapping and aerial surveillance.  Even after so many decades of service, it proved to be multi-functional and, as of 1995, there were still 2,000 of these planes flying all over the world.  On May 18, 1947, a C-47 (named Lil Marlene) carrying PAF Chief Col. Edwin Andrews and other high government officials crashed in Lanao.

C-47 “Dakota”

The Aermacchi SF-260 “Marchetti” (with body number 639), manufactured by SIAI Marchetti of Italy,  was a trainer/COIN aircraft acquired (1 warrior and 4 trainer) in 1973 and first used, for flying training, by the PAF Flying School Class 1973-A.  The aircraft was further modified to load 250-lb. bombs and MA-3 rocket launchers and deployed in combat operations to conduct close air support to ground operations.

Aermacchi SF-260 “Marchetti”

T-41D “Mascellero” (with body number 858), manufactured by the Cessna Aircraft Corporation (it was commercially called Cessna 172) in 1964, was acquired by the PAF in 1968 through the Joint United States Military Advisory Group (JUSMAG) for pilot training (as a preliminary flight screener for candidates) and proficiency flying and was first used by the PAF Flying School Class 1970-A.

T-41D “Mascellero”

The T-34 “Mentor” (with body number 506), manufactured by the Beechcraft Aircraft Corporation, signalled the modernization of the PAF’s flight training.  Two of these were acquired on October 1958 and a total of 36 were built by Japan for the PAF as part of its War Reparations Program.   In the early 1970s, it was subsequently used for air reconnaissance after being replaced by the T-41D “Mascellero” as a primary fighter.

T-34 “Mentor”

The YS-11A, manufactured by the Nihon Aircraft Manufacturing Company (NAMC), was a twin-engine, medium-range turboprop transport plane (RP 77) assigned to the 700th Special Mission Wing, mainly used, from 1971 t0 1993, by the Philippine President and the First Family.

YS-11A

The UH-1H “Iroquois,” manufactured by the Bell Helicopter Company, was nicknamed “Huey” and was extensively used by the Americans for air mobility and rapid deployment of troops during the Vietnam War.  The PAF acquired 75 Hueys in 1969 under the RP-US Military Assistance Program.  Still in service today due to its rugged design and low maintainability, it was assigned to the 205th Helicopter Wing and 505th Search and Rescue Group and used primarily for tactical troop transport, front-line casualty evacuation, resupply and troop extraction.

UH-1H “Iroquois”
Visitors like Jandy are allowed to pose inside

The UH-34D “Choctaw” (S-58), manufactured by the Sikorsky Aircraft Division, first flew on March 8, 1954 and was used by the PAF in search and rescue operations, from 1969 to 1980, under the 505th Search and Rescue Squadron, 205th Composite Wing, as well as troop transport, aerial photogrammetry, mapping and intelligence work.  It was phased out on October 1974.

UH-34D “Chowtaw”

The S-62B/HH-52A helicopter, manufactured by Sikorsky Aircraft Division, was acquired to provide air transport for the Philippine President.  In service from 1968 to 1975, it under the operation and maintenance of the 7001st Presidential Airlift Mission Squadron, now the 250th Presidential Airlift Wing.  This helicopter was eventually phased out due to its single engine feature which did not conform to the requirement for multi-engine category for VIP transport.

S-62B/HH-52A

Philippine Air Force Aerospace Museum: Gozar cor. Alia St., Col. Jesus Villamor Air Base, Pasay City.  Open Mondays to Fridays, 8 AM to 5 PM, Saturdays, 8 AM to 12 noon. Admission is free.  Tel: (632) 854-6703 and 29 and 762-6628.

Gota de Leche Building: A Heritage Conservation Success Story

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Early this year, Jandy and I happen to attend a Heritage Conservation Society seminar held at the historic, nicely-preserved, American-era  Gota de Leche Heritage Building, within Manila’s “University Belt” (adjacent to the University of the East). In attendance were HCS President Arch. Nathaniel “Dinky” A. von Einsiedel (my former boss and wedding godfather married to my first cousin), HCS Chairperson Ms. Gemma Cruz-Araneta, Arch. Fernando “Butch” Nakpil-Zialcita, Ivan Anthony S. Henares and Ivan ManDy.   The Heritage Conservation Society advocates the preservation of our built heritage, cultural and historical sites and settings.  The iconic building where the seminar was held, the last remaining heritage property of value along historic Lepanto St., is an inspiring success story that should be emulated in the preservation of Metro Manila’s endangered heritage.

The iconic Gota de Leche Building

Gota de Leche (Spanish for “drop of milk”), the first and oldest nonsectarian charitable organization in the country, was founded in 1905 by the Asociacion Feminista Filipina, a women’s movement in the Philippines. At that time, women didn’t have equal rights and were dependent on their husbands.  This group, devoted to mother-and-child health, included educated women such as Concepcion Felix (the first Filipina to earn a college degree), Librada Avelino (founder of Centro Escolar University), Justice Natividad Almeda Lopez (the first Filipina to practice law  and president of Gota de Leche for more than 40 years) and Filomena Francisco (the first woman pharmacist).

Fountain

Part of a worldwide movement to help children whose mothers couldn’t breastfeed, Gota de Leche (also known by its institutionalized name La Proteccion de la Infancia, Inc. or LPI) established, among many things, a milk station for infants since the number of cases of beriberi, malnutrition, and child mortality was alarmingly high. Its impressive operation involved cow owners who donated extra milk (bottled and delivered to Gota de Leche in calesas).  San Miguel provided the ice to prevent spoilage and electricity and water was free. Famous Dr. Fernando Calderon, a leading Filipino obstetrician during the American colonial period and the first director of the Philippine General Hospital, also lent his time to the institution.

The colonnaded main entrance

During its heyday, Gota de Leche fed 500 to 1,000 babies per week. Today, during feeding sessions held every Thursday (with a volunteer pediatrician on hand), its feeding program provides 2 kgs. of powdered milk per person  and every month, the institution spends a total of PhP60,000 on ten 25-kg. sacks of milk. Once the babies are no longer malnourished, a 4-man staff monitors the height and weight of children who “graduate” from the feeding program.

NHI plaque (1977)
NHI plaque (2003)

The iconic, 2-storey building which housed this movement (which moved here from its original home along Evangelista St. in Quiapo) was designed by architects Arcadio Arellano and his younger U.S.-educated brother Juan Arellano (he would later designed the Manila Central Post Office Building and the Metropolitan Theater).  The building, patterned after the Osepedale Degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents), a still-existing orphanage designed by renowned Italian Renaissance architect Filippo Brunelleschi from 1419 to 1427 in Florence (Italy), was adapted for the tropics.

Statue of a nursing angel

Erected on a parcel of land donated by bachelor industrialist and philanthropist Teodoro R. Yangco, it was completed in 1917 and survived World War II, earthquakes, fires and floods.  To the right of the building’s colonnaded, semicircular arched main entrance is a 5-bay loggia (Brunelleschi’s building had 9 bays) with round, monolithic columns with Classical capitals supporting a semicircular arch.  Above each column are circular tondi (roundels) featuring reliefs of infants in swaddling clothes (symbolizing the function of the building) set in spandrels (the space between arches).

The colonnaded facade’s semicircular arches and tondi

In 2002, the dilapidated building was restored to its original 1917 appearance by a team led by Arch. Augusto Villalon (his grandfather Dr. Jose Fabella was once Gota de Leche president), a member of the HCS Board of Trustees and the project’s lead conservation architect and project coordinator. The rental building, an unsympathetic addition attached to it in the recent past, was removed, providing vehicular access and clear sight lines from the street.  The original landscaping was also restored by landscape architect Ms. Ani Katrina de Leon.  In repairing the dilapidated building, traditional crafts and skills were undertaken within a clear and low-intervention conservation framework.

The Italian Renaissance-inspired, 5-bay loggia

The following year, this restoration project was awarded an honorable mention by  Dr. Richard Engelhardt, regional adviser for culture in the Asia-Pacific, during the UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Award for Culture Heritage Conservation, thus putting the Philippines’ heritage efforts in the world map and the building in the international heritage roster. A part of the building’s space is leased to a woman’s rights non-government organization and its main facilities and grounds are rented out for private functions.

The building’s interior

Gota de Leche: 859 Sergio H. Loyola St. (formerly Lepanto St.), Sampaloc, Manila. Tel: (632) 309-4562.

Heritage Conservation Society: G/F, Museo Pambata Bldg., Roxas Blvd., Ermita, Manila. Tel: (632) 353-4494.  Fax: (632) 522-2497.  Website:  www.heritage.org.ph.