Agew na Pangasinan (Lingayen)

Street dancing parade

After our visit to the Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag, we proceeded to the capital town of Lingayen and made a courtesy call on Provincial Information Officer Mr. Orpheus “Butch” Velasco at the Provincial Capitol.  We arrived in time for the Parada na Dayew, a grand parade of floats that was part of the celebration of the province’s 431st founding anniversary dubbed “Agew na Pangasinan,” now on its second year.  With the theme “Aliguas na Baley, Aliguas na Luyag,” the parade featured 22 participating local government units (LGU) and 12 colorful floats that showcased the various products and development programs and projects of participating LGUs.

The Lingayen float

The float parade, which included a colorful presentation of street dances with contingents clad in local costumes and accompanied by drum, lyre and bugle corps., commenced at the Narciso Ramos Sports and Civic Center, then followed a fixed route to Artacho St., Poblacion Area, Maramba Blvd. and ended at the Capitol. The floats, decorated with indigenous and recyclable materials, provided a glimpse of Pangasinan’s best products such as the sugpo (prawns) and malaga of Binmaley, the delicious and sweet tasting mangoes of San Carlos City, the savory corn of Sto. Tomas, the famous bagoong (fish paste) of Lingayen, the walis tambo of Bautista, the puto of Calasiao and the tupig of Laoac.

A drum and bugle corp
Provincial Tourism Office: 2/F, Malong Bldg., Provincial Capitol Complex, Lingayen, Pangasinan.  Tel: (075) 542-8007 and 542-6853.  E-mail: tourismpangasinan@yahoo.com

Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag (Pangasinan)

Image of Our Lady

Last April 4-6, I was invited by events organizer Mr. Bernard Supetran to cover the Agew na Pangasinan Festival (the provincial foundation anniversary) of Pangasinan. Together with my photographer daughter Cheska, we met up with Bernard, Mr. Amadis Ma. Guerrero of Philippine Daily Inquirer, Mr. Vince Lopez of Manila Bulletin and travel blogger (http://mvlnunez.blogspot.com/) and good friend Mr. Mark Vincent Nunez  at MacDonalds near De La Salle University along Taft Ave. in Pasay City.  Along the way, we also picked up Lakbay Norte 2 colleague Ms. Kara Santos of Sunday Inquirer at Quezon City.   Our first destination would be the Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag.  The trip took longer than expected as we made a wrong turn at Urdaneta City, reaching as far as Calasiao before we realized our mistake.  We backtracked and made it to Manaoag and the shrine by 1:30 PM.  

Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag

I have been  to the shrine many times, the last time just 70 days ago during the first leg of my Lakbay Norte 2 tour, visiting its newly inaugurated Candle Gallery.  Time constraints then made us miss visiting its Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag.  Now the opportunity presented itself.  The museum, first opened on May 10, 2000 (incidentally Cheska’s 10th birthday), was recently renovated and inaugurated again last April 21, 2010.  Its display includes an old carroza used to transport the image during her procession, an earlier pedestal, a collection of embroidered, pre-Vatican II chasubles, capes and a dalmatic (possibly dating back as far as the 17th century); a collection of monstrances, chalices, ciboria, patens and communion plates; silver candelabras with the unmistakable markings of the Dominican seal; an old wooden statue of St. Dominic; golden crown, staff, rostrillo, aureola and embroidered cape that are used to embellish the image; perfume bottles and pieces of jewelry.that adorn the statue of Our Lady.  

The “Church on a Hill” exhibit

One panel on the wall, “The Church On a Hill,” narrates the history of the town’s church. Another interesting display are the letters of the devotees who are seeking divine assistance for the many concerns of life, such as success, cure, enlightenment and relationship. At the center of the hall is a beautiful 3 ft. high ivory statue of Our Lady of the Rosary of Manaoag mounted on a huge, carved wooden bulk of clouds from which three cherubim heads pop out. A visitor can write  prayers on pieces of paper  provided on a console table at the right side of the image.In front of the image is an antique wooden bench.  A mounted flat television on the wall depicts the history, the miracles and personal reflections related to Our Lady of Manaoag.  

Museo de Nuestra Senora de Manaoag:  Shrine of Our Lady of Manaoag, Milo St. cor. N. Garcia Rd., Manaoag, Pangasinan.  Tel: (075) 529-0249 and 519-2547.  Fax: (075) 529-0132.  Website: www.ourladyofmanaoag.org. Open Mondays to Sundays (except Tuesdays), 8 AM-4:30 PM. Admission is free of charge but donations are welcomed to augment museum maintenance and education program.

Church of St. Peter the Martyr (Sual, Pangasinan)

Fr. Gabriel Perez began the construction of the town’s first church and convent (which was later completed by Fr.Juan Gutierrez) The church was completed by Fr. Pedro Villanova in 1870.

Church of St. Peter the Martyr

Church of St. Peter the Martyr

A second church, started in 1883 during the term of Fr. Felix Casas, was completed by Fr.r Eugenio Minguez in 1891 and later consecrated on June 8, 1893. It was destroyed during the liberation in 1945. 

The church's interior

The church’s interior

The present church is the town’s third.  Since 1949, the parish has been under the administration of the Columban Fathers.

The main retablo

The main retablo

Its fancy post-Baroque or Early Spanish Colonial Revival facade has a low entablature (which does not fit the classical proportions of the Renaissance style) and staggered placement of columns on the first and second levels (which provides an element of irregular rhythm). On the church’s left is the bell tower.

Retablo on the left

Retablo on the left

Retablo on the right

Retablo on the right

Church of St. Peter the Martyr: Brgy. Capantolan, Sual 2403, Pangasinan. Tel (075) 548-2072.

How to Get There: Sual is located 352 kilometers from Manila.

Malacanang of the North (Paoay, Ilocos Norte)

Malacanang ti Amianan

After our short stopover at Paoay Lake in Paoay, we now proceeded to the two-storey Malacanang ti Amianan (Malacañang of the North), one of the 29 former vacation houses of the Marcoses.  This was to be our last Lakbay Norte 2 tourist destination. Located uphill, on the first road past the Maharlika Hall of Fort Ilocandia Resort Lake Golf and Country Club, this hardwood mansion was built in 1977 by former First Lady Imelda Marcos, along the edge of Paoay Lake, to commemorate the 60th birthday of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos and as a vacation home and cabinet meeting place.

The baby grand piano beside the grand staircase

After the Marcoses lost power in 1986, the property was sequestered and the Philippine Tourism Authority was given custodianship of the property for 24 years but had neglected its upkeep.  When Imee Marcos became governor of Ilocos Norte in 2010, she had the house restored at a cost of PhP7 million and inaugurated it again on January 1, 2011. During the restoration, all the wooden furniture sets and fixtures were reupholstered or repaired. Now a museum and a venue for grand weddings, private functions and corporate and theme events, it has a photo gallery of the late president  and displays some of the personal belongings of the Marcoses, life-size Ferdinand Marcos mannequins and Congresswoman Imelda’s Cora Jacob arm candy and other clutches.

Life-size Ferdinand Marcos mannequins

The museum was supposed to be closed during our visit, it being a Monday, but our media group was given special permission to visit by the provincial government.  Ms. Letty Buduan, who served the Marcoses for over three decades, and seven others keep the museum spic and span.  The narra floors were so shiny and the furniture dust-free.  In the past, visitors here included George HamiltonNora AunorGabby Concepcion, among others.  Nowadays, bus loads of school children and guests frequent this museum which offers a breathtaking and panoramic view of Paoay Lake, especially during sunset.

Formal dining area

This huge, 1,900 sq. m. mansion, on a  roughly 4 hectare lot, has nine luxurious bedrooms, two living rooms, two formal dining areas, two kitchens and two verandahs. Imelda Marcos’ bedroom, the largest of the nine, displays some of her handbags.  Imee and Irene shared a bedroom while Bongbong’s and the late president’s master bedroom were both located at the ground floor.  They all slept in canopied beds.  A baby grand piano is located by the staircase.

The verandah with its panoramic view of Paoay Lake

After our Malacanang ti Amianan Museum visit, we all boarded our bus as we headed back to Laoag City for our 9:30 PM return flight back to Manila.  But first, we had dinner at Texicano Hotel and there, said goodbye to our gracious hosts, the Ilocos Norte Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Malacanang ti Amianan: Brgy. Suba, Paoay, Ilocos Norte. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM-11:30 PM.  Admission fee: PhP30 for adults and PhP10 for children.

Ilocos Norte Convention and Visitors Bureau: Room 2, Balay da Blas, 10 Giron St., Brgy. 7-B, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Mobile number: (0920) 269-1544.  E-mail: stevebarreiro@yahoo.com.  Website: http://northphilippines.org/destinations/ilocos-norte.

Paoay Lake National Park (Ilocos Norte)

Cattle and boats for hire line the lake shore

After our brief sojourn in Batac City, we next proceeded to the Malacanang Ti Amianan (Malacanang of the North) in Paoay.  Along the way, we made a brief stopover at the view deck of Paoay Lake National Park.  This 470-hectare, horseshoe-shaped lake, the largest in the province, was declared as a National Park on June 21, 1969 by virtue of Republic Act No. 5631.  Once known as Naguyudan, it is known to the locals as Dakkel a Danum and is a popular picnic site. The lake is artificially seeded with various species of colorful fish and is 10 m. deep, yet the surface is below sea level.  Its fresh water comes from a subterranean source.

Lakbay Norte 2 at Lake Paoay National Park

According to a charming but Sodom and Gomorrah-like legend, it is said that a once-prosperous town, San Juan de Sahagun, once stood where the lake is now.  The materialism of the town and the indolence of its people incurred God’s wrath, so he sent an earthquake and flood waters that swallowed up the town and formed the lake.   Town elders will tell you that the original townsfolk, in gaudy fiesta finery, can still be seen as colorful, transformed fishes swimming around with earrings and bracelets.  Geological studies indicate that the lake was formed by a massive earthquake that caused the ground to sink and be filled with water from underground springs.  

A barge used to cross the lake

The lake is ideal for bird watching   Common residents here include the endemic Philippine Duck (Anas luzonica), the White-Collared Kingfisher (Halcyon chloris), the White-Throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smymensis), the Brahminy Kite, cattle egret and little egret. Migratory birds that linger for a while here include the Tufted Duck (Aythya fuligula), the Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea), great egret and the osprey. Cottages (PhP50) can be rented at the viewing deck.

Paoay Lake is located north of Paoay town, 3 kms. off the main highway and 3 kms. from the sea.

Batac Empanada versus Vigan Empanada (Batac City, Ilocos Norte)

Batac Riverside Empanadaan

The Ilocos empanada (a local meat and vegetable-filled pastry), which comes in two varieties, is one of my favorite local snacks and I’ve tried the Vigan variety when I was in Ilocos Sur’s Heritage Village. Back in Batac City during the Lakbay Norte 2 media tour, this time I was going to try out the Batac variety, reputably the best empanada in the region.  They are also a lot bigger than the regular empanadas sold in Metro Manila.  The Ilocos empanada, similar to a taco but closed, is actually of Spanish and Mexican origin and the basic empanada has a galapong (rice flour) crust filled with grated green papaya, chopped longanisa (pork sausage) shredded carrots, fried egg and mongo bean sprouts (togue or balatong).

The dough is prepared

The place to go for this delicacy is the Batac Riverside Empanadaan situated beside the Quiaoit River. Here, numerous food stalls sell, aside from empanada, Ilocano dishes as well as street food such as longanisa and isaw which locals curiously dip in ketchup rather than vinegar.  Unlike the colorless, crunchier and thin-crusted Vigan empanada, the crust (pinais) of the Batac empanada is a bright golden orange color because of the annatto or atsuwete (or achuete), thicker and is less crispy. The Batac empanada uses the entire egg while in the Vigan variety, the egg white is removed (the egg white was an important building material at that time).  

An egg is added

The Batac empanada also uses the saltier Laoag longanisa while the Vigan variety uses the vinegar-seasoned, small, plump and garlicky Vigan longanisa. Many Vigan empanadas also do not have the mongo bean sprouts, just the grated green papaya, and are wrapped in banana leaves.  The vinegar (sukang iloko) dip used also accentuates the differences between the two varieties. The very strong Vigan vinegar has an alcohol-like fermented taste while the sour Laoag vinegar usually has bird’s eye chili (siling labuyo) added to it.

The finished product. Yummmm!!!!

At our selected stall, we had a choice of having just an ordinary empanada with just the grated papaya, mongo bean sprouts and egg (PhP30); the ordinary eggless empanada with just the vegetables; the special empanada with longanisa and egg (PhP35); the special eggless empanada with longanisa but no egg;  the special empanada with everything minus the mongo bean sprouts; the jumbo empanada with hot dog (PhP50); the double special empanada with two longanisas and one egg; the double egg empanada with one longanisa and two eggs; and the double double empanada with two longanisas and two eggs. Estan Cabigan and I chose the last, the heaviest of them all, which we shared.  The cook first lays huge amounts of the abovementioned ingredients inside the orange dough, seals it and then deep fries it.

Batac Riverside Empanadaan: Valdez, Batac City, Ilocos Norte.

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum (Batac City, Ilocos Norte)

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum

We were now on our last day of our 6-day North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB)/Manila North Tollways Corp. (MNTC)-sponsored Labay Norte 2 media tour and, after our Playa Tropical Resort Hotel presscon in Currimao, we returned again to the Ilocos Norte Hotel and Convention Center for lunch and another presscon, this time with former presidential daughter and now Ilocos Norte Gov.  Maria Imelda “Imee” R. Marcos.   After that, we proceeded to nearby Batac City to visit the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum and the Imelda Marcos Gallery.  This would be my second visit to the former and my first to the latter. A few meters from the museum is the Romanesque-style Church of the Immaculate Conception. 

The presidential table

The Marcos Museum and Mausoleum was the colonial-style, wood and adobe boyhood ancestral home of the late Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos who moved to Batac from Sarrat when he was 8 years old.  Housing the memorabilia of the former president, this modest, 3-room museum has a wall dedicated to Marcos’ wartime service in the Philippine Army, as a soldier in the defense of Bataan and with American Forces after liberation. There are also photos of him and Imelda, his military awards, his letters, important documents, license plates of his cars, the bust of the president and his work desk at Malacanang. At the second floor are the offices of former presidential children Ferdinand “Bongbong” E. Marcos, Jr. (now a senator) and Gov. Imee R. Marcos when they were Second District congressmen. 

Imelda Marcos Residence

On the right side of the house is the Marcos Mausoleum where the glass-encased, embalmed corpse of the late president lies, since 1993, in a vacuum-sealed, refrigerated crypt.  Marcos died in exile in Hawaii on September 28, 1989 and his body was brought to his hometown in Batac while awaiting a state funeral at the Libingan ng mga Bayani.  The president is dressed in a white barong tagalog with a red, white and blue ceremonial sash and polished medals. The dimly lit interior is filled with piped-in soft Gregorian chant music. Visitors are not allowed to take pictures inside.  I guess the only time photos were ever taken of Marcos’ corpse was when former First Lady and Imelda R. Marcos visited it for some publicity shots.

Marcos Photo Gallery

Also within the compound is another ancestral house used as the office of now Second District congresswoman Imelda Marcos.  We also dropped by the nearby Marcos Photo Gallery (World Peace Center), a 200-photo archive of the Marcos family. They include a collage of news clippings and photos during the Marcos era.  Prior to leaving Batac City for Paoay, I bought a cowboy hat (PhP150) at one of the sidewalk stalls and tried out the Batac empanada. 

Marcos Museum and Mausoleum: Marcos Ave., Batac City, Ilocos Norte. Open daily, 9 AM- 12 noon and 1-4 PM. 

Arrival in Currimao (Ilocos Norte)

Playa Tropical Resort Hote: Solana Spa (left) and the Casas

It was midnight when we ended our cocktails and videoke night at Balay da Blas in Laoag City and, after saying goodbye to our hosts, we proceeded to Currimao where we were to stay overnight at Playa Tropical Resort Hotel.  It already past midnight when we arrived at the resort and, after checking in at our rooms, grabbed some much needed shuteye. It was with some effort that I went down for breakfast at the resort’s Cafe Amarra for my coffee fix and fill of breakfast.

Check out “Resort Review: Playa Tropical Resort Hotel

As we still had time prior to our presscon at the hotel, Ian Garcia, Astra Alegre, Kara Santos, Ivan ManDy and I decided to visit nearby Sitio Remedios Heritage Village, going there via the gray sand beach.  It was starting to rain upon our arrival at the resort  and it was only after the rain stopped that we got to explore the grounds.

Check out “Resort Feature: Sitio Remedios Heritage Village

Here, we were welcomed here by Rene Gluatco, our Pasuquin, Paoay and Sarrat local guide and historian.

Check out “The Biscocho of Pasuquin

Rene treated us to some hot native chocolate at the resort’s Abrao Restaurant by the sea.  The restaurant serves local Ilocano fare (bagnet, Vigan longanisa, etc.), fresh fruit juices, and refreshing herbal drinks and teas. Rene then toured us around the resort.

From left, Ian Garcia, Rene Guatlo, Ivan
ManDy and Astra Alegre

Back at Playa Tropical, we then had our presscon with Gen. Manager Kenji Numano whom, I later found out, prior to leaving, is a fellow Merville Subd. resident and a friend of my daughter  Cheska. Small world.

Check out “Resort Review: Playa Tropical Resort Hotel

Presscon with resort GM Kenji Numano (standing) at Solana
Playa Tropical Resort: Brgy. Victoria, Currimao, Ilocos Norte 2903. Tel: (077) 676-1001 and 670-1211. E-mail: stay@playatropical.com.ph.  Website: www.playatropical.com.ph.

Sitio Remedios Heritage Village: Brgy. Victoria, Currimao, Ilocos Norte.  Mobile number: (0920) 925-0217.  Email: sitio_remedios@yahoo.com. Website: www.sitioremedios.com.

Back to Laoag City (Ilocos Norte)

After our La Paz Sand Dunes adventure, we again boarded our shuttle bus for San Nicolas   where we were invited for a buffet dinner at Ilocos Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant’s atrium-style lobby. After dinner we checked out the hotel’s rooms.
After our dinner at Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant, we were in for another round of eating, this time at Balay de Blas Pensionne House in Laoag City, as guests of hotel owner Mr. Sammy Bas, for some cocktails and videoke.  The hotel was formerly a residence of the Blas family until it opened its doors to tourists.
Executive Suite bedroom at Balay de Blas

Before everything else, we were allowed to freshen up at its executive suite. The room’s furnishings were all period pieces and one table had a Singer sewing machine base, same as the those in Cafe Herencia in Paoay, where Sammy is a co-owner.

Check out “Restaurant Review: Cafe Herencia

Spacious living room (take note of the Singer sewing machine
table at center)

Sammy also owns Saramsam Ylocano Restaurant and guests can place their orders through the hotel.  The restaurant offers Ilocano dishes (bagnetigadopoque-poquedinakdakpinakbet, etc.) as well as avant-garde versions of the traditional Ilocano fare fused with Western cuisine such as Saramsam pasta, poque-poque pizza and dinuguan pizza.  Some of these dishes were served to us during our cocktails and videoke night which was emceed by media colleagues Ron Rivera and Kenneth del Rosario.

Ilocos Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant: Brgy 1, San Francisco National Highway, San Nicolas, Ilocos Norte. Tel: (077) 670-6528 and 781-2122.  Fax: (077) 781-3700.  Website: www.ilocosrosewellhotel.com.

Balay da Blas Pensionne House: 10 Giron St., Brgy. 7-B, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Tel: (077) 770-4389.  Email: balaydablas@yahoo.com. Website: www.balaydablas.com.

Saramsam Ylocano Restaurant: N. Corpuz Bldg., Rizal cor. Hizon St., Brgy. 7-A, Laoag City, Ilocos Norte.  Tel: (077) 771-5825.  Email: balaydablas@yahoo.com.

Sandboarding and 4x4s at La Paz Sand Dunes (Laoag City, Ilocos Norte)

Ida Noelle tries sandboarding while the others look on

After our nostalgic trip down the Marcos trail and some visita iglesia, it was now time for adventure back at Laoag City – sandboarding and 4x4s at  the unique La Paz Sand Dunes in Brgy. La Paz.  These low-lying, 10-30-m. high (some reach as high as 90 m.) elongated hills, along  the coast, north of the Laoag River, are locally called Bantay Bimmaboy (because of their pig shapes) and are declared National Geological Monuments.  They form, together with those stretching south of the Laoag River, a 16-km. long beach. Sandboarding is like snowboarding but done on sand and the sand board is very much like the snow board – just slip your feet to the straps attached to the wooden board.  In La Paz, this sport was first unveiled on August 2, 2009 by the Laoag Eco-Adventure Development (LEAD) Movement, a group that promotes adventure and eco-tourism.

Sandboarding on my butt

Instructors at the steep site (called “Devil’s Drop”) showed us how to strap our feet, properly mount the sand board, and where our center of gravity should be on our way down. Boards are waxed  first. prior to mounting.  You can sandboard standing up or, for those who balk at the thought of speeding down a  steep, 25-30 foot high hill, you can do it sitting down.  Having had a sprain on my right foot since my Anuplig Falls hike, I wasn’t going to do this standing up.  Even when seated, I still fell halfway. Getting back up on the slope, via the loose sand, was a great effort (you have to use the board as a prop). Finally, I succeeded on my second try.  Some in our media group were naturals or have done this before, effortlessly surfing, standing up, down the dunes without a hitch. For the newcomers, it took a while to find their balance and many  also fell halfway down the slope.  However, once you find your rhythm and balance, you’re hitched, wanting to do it all over again and again.

4×4 off-road vehicle

The thrill of the 15-min. 4 x 4 ride, patterned after that in Dubai, comes from riding at the back of the 4×4 off-road vehicle, with only a grab bar for you to hang on for dear life as you speed up a very steep hill then go down even faster. At one point our expert driver, barely into his teens, sped up a hill then suddenly let the vehicle fall back in reverse, making us grab the bars even tighter.  Truly a great adrenaline rush.  Of course, accidents can happen and we almost had one as our driver sped up the hill only to find out, at the last moment, that another was also heading up, on a collision course, at the reverse slope.  Close call.  Our driver had to back down.

The sand adventure package, consisting of the 4×4 adventure and sandboarding, costs PhP2,500 for one hour, maximum of 4 persons per jeep. Mobile number: (0919) 873-5516, (0932) 358-7521 and (0917) 523-0331).
After our La Paz Sand Dunes adventure, we again boarded our shuttle bus for San Nicolas   where we were invited for a buffet dinner at Ilocos Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant’s atrium-style lobby.
Laoag Eco-Adventure Development (LEAD) Movement, Inc.: Tel: (077) 772-0538.  Mobile number: (0919) 873-5516. Website: http://leadmovement.wordpress.com/.
Ilocos Rosewell Hotel and Restaurant: Brgy 1, San Francisco National Highway, San Nicolas, Ilocos Norte. Tel: (077) 670-6528 and 781-2122.  Fax: (077) 781-3700.  Website: www.ilocosrosewellhotel.com.