The Busig-on River (Labo, Camarines Norte)

Nipa palms along the Busig-on River

We left Quinamanukan Island by 3:15 PM, the mainland just a 30-40 min. boat ride away.  Upon reaching the mainland, our boat made its way inland via the wide but sometimes shallow Busig-on River (the province’s longest river system), its muddy banks lined with nipa and coconut palms and backdropped by the 997 m. high Mt. Balagbag (known as the “Sleeping Giant”).  Every now and then, small, outrigger-less and high-bowed bancas would pass us by.  After negotiating a bend in the river, we finally reached port by 4:30 PM.  Amable Miranda of the Camarines NorteTourism Office was already waiting for us there.  After dining on angko, a local delicacy I bought and shared with the others, Amable drove us to Tabea Reichan Restaurant at Vinzons town proper where we had our “late” lunch.  After picking up our luggage at the Municipal Guest House along Bagasbas Blvd. in Daet, Amable drove us to the nearby, upscale Bagasbas Lighthouse Resort, Daet’s premier resort, where we were to stay (my second) for two days.

Tabea Reichan Restaurant: Poblacion (just across the municipal hall), Vinzons, Camarines Norte

Bagasbas Lighthouse Hotel Resort: Bagasbas Blvd., Daet, Camarines Norte.  Tel: (054) 441-5855.  Mobile number: (0916) 520-6783.  E-mail: info@bagasbaslighthouse.com. Website: www.bagasbaslighthouse.com.

Quinamanukan Island (Camarines Norte)

While we dining on the boat, we were merrily on our way to our next destination: the low, flat and heavily wooded, 6-hectare and footprint-shaped Quinamanukan Island, off Brgy, Sula in San Miguel Bay.

Quinamanukan Island

We were within sight of the island and its 1,000 m. long white sand beach by 1:30 PM but we had to circle it for half an hour, looking for a suitable landing site, with the boatman carefully steering the boat away from the delicate coral reef. We were welcomed by Mr. Samuel Pajarin, the island’s caretaker, who led us to his hut on the island’s opposite shore, we having to make a short hike through a well-marked trail through a forest to get there.  While Samuel was making coffee for us, I donned a diving mask and snorkel to explore the stunning and impressive submarine gardens (stony, whip and soft coral, black coral, etc.) of the island’s 200-hectare marine sanctuary, a breeding spot for different kinds of colorful tropical fish. The island is also ideal for scuba diving as it has drop-offs going down to 1,000 m.

Pinagkastilyuhan Island (Camarines Norte)

Pinagkastilyuhan Island

After returning to our campsite from our hilltop trek, we proceeded to pack up our stuff as we were to have our lunch at the mainland in Vinzons town.  We shoved off and said goodbye to Tinaga Island by 11 AM but it seems our hunger for islands to explore hasn’t been sated.  With some extra gas to burn and lots of enthusiasm, in spite of the overcast skies, we leisurely made our way to the privately-owned (by a Dr. Valencia) Pinagkastilyuhan Island (also called Cinastilyohan Island), making a brief stopover to photograph some goats sheltering on rocky outcrops on another island.  After a 30 min. trip, we made soon espied Pinagkastilyuhan Islandbut couldn’t make landfall as the water was too shallow for the boat to navigate.

Wading shallow waters to get to the island

Thus, we had to disembark from the boat some distance from the shore, me, Bernard, Karla, Lan, Debbee and Angel having to wade through ankle deep to sometimes waist deep waters to get to shore.  It was already drizzling when we arrived, prompting Lee decided to stay behind in the boat to avoid drenching his camera.  I was the first to make it to shore, the others soon following my lead.  The sand, though not as white as in Mahabang Buhangin, was just as fine and inviting.  However, prior to exploring the island, Debbee had to get clearance from the island’s lady caretaker, it being a privately-owned island.    We went maybe a fourth of the way around the island, where two islands beckon offshore.  The nearest seemed reachable but wading towards it was impossible as, halfway there, the water already reached up to my neck.  So near yet so far.   

Dining, kamayan style, on grilled fish

After some photo ops, we returned to where we landed and waded back to the boat.  While we were gone, Lee wasn’t idle, buying 5 large pieces of fish and a squid, from some passing fishermen, for the rock-bottom price of PhP100.  As soon as we raised anchor, Lee had this fresh catch grilled by the boatmen on a portable stove.  It was now noontime and time for lunch and, soon enough, we were dining on this feast, kamayan style, which we complemented with leftover fried rice.  

The Church Bells of Paracale

The bells of Paracale Church

Our longest stopover was at the Church of Our Lady of Candles in Paracale, my second such visit.  However, my visit here was notable as this was my first time to climb a church bell tower (and two at that at each end of the facade). The towers were approached by first climbing a steep stair from the nave to the choir loft and, from there, another less steep stair, but with a very low opening, to the towers.  The left belfry has two medium-sized bells bells  while the right belfry has two big and older (circa 1888) bells and a small bell. One of the newer bells had a recognizable signature stating that it was cast in 1920 by the Hilarion Sunico Foundry (the foundry has made 176 bells since 1872 and its last known bell was cast in 1937).  Some of the bells have visible cracks and all are colored blue-green possibly due to oxidation.  The towers had panoramic views of the municipal hall and town proper as well as the mountains beyond.

Labo Town Proper (Camarines Norte)

About 15 kms. out of Daet, we again made a short stopover at the busy, 648.84 sq. km. (more than 25% of the province’s total land area) and first-class municipality of Labo (2010 population: 92,041, the province’s most populous) where Bernard and I bought some shades at the market.

Labo town proper

Labo town proper

From the market, I walked over to the nearby Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist and the modern, 2-storey municipal hall for my own photo ops.

Labo Municipal Hall

Labo Municipal Hall

The church was built in 1890 by Fr. Sotero Martin (parish priest from 1891 to 1894).

Church of St. John the Evangelist & Apostle

Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church has a 2-level, Baroque-style coralstone facade with a triangular pediment with a centrally located, semicircular arched statued niche and topped by a square bell tower.

The lower level has a centrally located, semicircular arched main entrance flanked by fluted pilasters (topped by urn-like finials) and semicircular arched statued niches.

Church of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist: Brgy. Burgos, Labo 4604. Tel: ()54) 447-6325. Feast of St. John the Apostle and Evangelist: May 6.

Labo Municipal Hall: National Highway, Labo 4604. Tel: (054) 721-7412.  E-mail: inquiries@labo.gov.ph. Website: www.labo.gov.ph.

Back to Camarines Norte

Municipal Guest House

For the third time this year, I was again invited to visit Daet, in Camarines Norte, this time to cover its Pinyasan Festival as well as the 150th birth anniversary of Jose Rizal, the town being the site of our National Hero’s first monument.  I was joined by event organizer Mr. Bernard Supetran, professional photographer Mr. Lee Llamas, travel writers Mr. Timothy Jay “TJ” A. Ibay of What’s On and Ms. Karla Marcia Rey, and travel blogger (and Karla’s boyfriend) Mr. Orlando “Lan” Cajigal.   We all left via a 9 PM airconditioned bus at the Philtranco terminal in Pasay City, all sitting at the rear of the bus.  This was to be my first long-haul bus (8-9 hrs.) trip to Daet, my first being by plane to Naga City (plus a 2-hr. van drive back to Daet) and the two others by van.

Surfer’s Dine Inn

Our 6 AM arrival at Daet was heralded with a crash as our bus’ roof  scraped the low ceiling of the bus shed.  Poor bus driver (salary deduction).  Our trusty driver from the Provincial Tourism Office, Mr. Amable Miranda, was on hand at the terminal to pick us up with a van.  We were first brought to Surfer’s Dine Inn, along Bagasbas Blvd., for an early Filipino breakfast (mine was pork chops). Here, we were met by Provincial Tourism Officer and good friend Atty. Debbee Francisco.  Amable then brought us to the Municipal Guest House, also along Bagasbas Blvd., where we freshened up and rested for a short while.   We were all slated to go overnight camping at Tinaga Island, one of the famed Calaguas Islands.  This was to be my second visit and the first for the rest.We left Bagasbas by 8 AM for the leisurely drive to Minaongan Fish Port in Paracale, bringing along just enough personal necessities for our overnight camping (plus some borrowed pillows and blankets from the guesthouse).  The national highway unusually passed through the gated property (which was closed at night) of the modern Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (consecrated on  September 1, 1984).  Here we made a brief stopover for photo ops.

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity

Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity

Return to Tinaga Island and Mahabang Buhangin (Camarines Norte)

Mahabang Buhangin Beach

We finally arrived at Minaogan Fish Port in Paracale by 10 AM.  Here, a motorized outrigger boat, much smaller than the 25-pax boat I used during my first visit (which was grounded with a damaged propeller), was made available for our use.  Ms. Genelyn Angel S. David, a member of Debbee’s staff, also joined us here.  As it was still low tide, we had to wade the shallow waters to get to the boat, Debbee accidentally dipping (and ruining) her mobile phone while doing so. We were on soon our way, the 2-hr. boat trip being uneventful as the sea was calm.

My second Mahabang Buhangin sunset

We arrived at Tinaga Island by noontime, making landfall at the famed white sand of Mahabang Buhangin.  Lunch was still a long way off as the supplies had to be unloaded, followed by food preparation and cooking.  While waiting for lunch, we set the 4 Coleman dome tents provided for us.  Lunch was ready by the time we were done and we all feasted, kamayan style, on fried chicken, steamed rice and grilled squid.   After this late repast, we rested for a while or chatted.  Later, in the afternoon, Karla, Lan, Angel, Debbee and I plus 2 young island boys, both brothers, who acted as our guides, made our way along the beach to the base of a hill on the previously unexplored (by me) south side of the island.  From here, it was all uphill and downhill, along a well-marked trail, through a thick forest and, finally, through cogon (spear) grass.  Here, we had a somewhat obstructed view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  After some photo ops, we made our way back to the beach where Lee had already set up his camera, eagerly awaiting the sunset.  Though not as unobstructed by clouds as during my first visit, it was still just as spectacular.

Mahabang Buhangin viewed from the south hill

While waiting for lunch, we set the 4 Coleman dome tents provided for us.  Lunch was ready by the time we were done and we all feasted, kamayan style, on fried chicken, steamed rice and grilled squid.   After this late repast, we rested for a while or chatted.  Later, in the afternoon, Karla, Lan, Angel, Debbee and I plus 2 young island boys, both brothers, who acted as our guides, made our way along the beach to the base of a hill on the previously unexplored (by me) south side of the island.  From here, it was all uphill and downhill, along a well-marked trail, through a thick forest and, finally, through cogon (spear) grass.  Here, we had a somewhat obstructed view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  After some photo ops, we made our way back to the beach where Lee had already set up his camera, eagerly awaiting the sunset.  Though not as unobstructed by clouds as during my first visit, it was still just as spectacular.

Footprints in the sand

Back in our camp, dinner was already being prepared and soon we were dining, with flashlights, on grilled pork chops, laing and steamed rice.  Too early for sleeping, we chatted away till 11 PM when we decided to call it a night and retire to our tents.  Come morning, we awoke to a delicious breakfast of longanisa, fried egg, coffee and fried rice.  The weather that morning, however, was overcast and soon it started to drizzle.  Typhoon Egay had now made landfall.  Still, this did not dampen our spirit for adventure and Lee, Angel, Karla, Lan, TJ, Debbee, Bernard and I hiked along the beach to the north side of the island where Lee did a fashion shoot, at the beach and among rock formations, with Angel as model.  After the shoot, Lee and Angel made their way back to the camp while rest of us made our way up the hill, first through a light forest, then out into a grassy clearing where we had a panoramic view of Mahabang Buhangin Beach.  Further up, we had  360 degree view of both Mahabang Buhangin and nearby offshore islands. Below us was another white sand beach.  Thus sated, we made our way down the hill to the beach and back to the camp.

Casa San Miguel: Zambales’ Center for the Arts

The Pundaquit Virtuosi in concert


Upon the culmination of the 3-km. Novice Race, Bernard, Lally, Kara, Art, Amadis and I left Anvaya Cove in Morong (Bataan) to attend the concert of the Pundaquit Virtuosi at Casa San Miguel (CSM), in San Antonio in Zambales as guests of internationally-acclaimed violinist Alfonso “Coke” Bolipata.  Bernard and Lally’s 15-year old son George, a violin student at CSM, went there earlier. CSM, the CCP of Zambales, is the province’s sole center for culture and the arts and is the venue for the annual Pundaquit Arts Festival. The concert, held at the Ramon Corpuz L. Concert Hall for intimate performances, was already at its closing stages when we arrived in the evening, just in time to witness its final number and, after heartwarming applause, its accompanying encore.  After that performance, we joined in on the dinner prepared for guests by Coke.     

Casa San Miguel


Casa San Miguel, a 45-min. drive from Subic, is set amidst a mango orchard between the mountain and the sea, a setting which encourages and inspires artists to hone their skills freely as they play harmoniously with the sounds of the surrounding scenery.  It started out as a seaside family retreat built in 1921. In 1993, Coke, after returning from his studies at the Julliard School of Music in New York and the University of Indiana, established an art center there after the old house burned down. To start up the center, Coke offered workshops designed to identify and develop potential talents in classical music, theater, shadow play and visual arts. He even taught the children of farmers and fisher folk for free. The center is committed to exposing the community to different cultural forms, particularly classical music, as well as to the continued development and support of the Filipino artist and to the development of the new artist and audiences for the next generation.

 
Ramon L. Corpus Concert Hall


This art center, now a playground for the music, theater and visual art prodigies of Zambales, has a grand 3-storey brick building that serves as the home of the Bolipatas’ protégés. The airconditioned, 300-pax Ramon L. Corpus Concert Hall (named after Coke’s grandfather), on the ground floor, has a 7-ft. grand piano and crisp, clear acoustics.  It houses several chamber orchestra concerts, theater plays, operettas, and ballet productions.  Celebrated Filipino classical pianist Cecile Licad performed here during a recent concert.  

Casa San Miguel bedroom


Upstairs are separate concert halls for intimate performances and music lessons while at the third and attic floors are 7 bedrooms with views of Mt. Pundaquit and Mt. Maubanban on one side and the South China Sea on their other.  The 2-storey Anita Gallery (at the center’s western wing), whose wide spaces and translucent walls are a blank canvas for creativity, was named after the modernist/genre painter Anita Magsaysay-Ho, a native and niece of Ramon L. Corpuz.  This gallery has exhibited the works of brilliant artists such as Carlo Gacubo, Don Sanlubayba and Borlongan.  A coffee shop, called Kapepe, serves light snacks, dinner and refreshments using organically grown vegetables harvested from the Casa San Miguel farm and the nearby sea. Outside is a 1,000-seat, circular outdoor theater that serves as an alternative venue for productions  that require more space such as full-orchestra concerts and elaborate theater and dance performances. There is also a sunken terraced garden, with a miniature stage (where masses are held on Sundays), designed to offer visitors a meditative retreat while waiting for the beginning of a performance.

 
Pundaquit Virtuosi rehearsal with Coke Bolipata


Every 3 months, CSM regularly holds classes for violin, cello, viola, visual arts, theater production and shadow play with young and talented students attending classes given one-on-one by Coke and assistant teachers every weekend. To date, the center has 150 scholars (1,200 since 1996) who are provided with free board and lodging.  In exchange, they are required to devote a portion of their residency period to lecturing, giving demonstrations and workshop-seminars; or to teaching skills to the surrounding communities as part of their development and enhancement. The artists also have the optional opportunity to present their products, finished or unfinished (as a work-in-progress), at CSM’s different venues.   Classes culminate with a performance or exhibit held at CSM. Some of CSM’s graduates make up the Pundaquit Virtuosi which is divided into Quadros (those skilled in arts) and Cuedras (those skilled in music). Last June 6, 2007, in Makati City, the Pundaquit Virtuosi had the honor of performing with the famed New York sextet of Juilliard School, violinists William Harvey and Frank Shaw, and cellist Jeremiah Shaw. In collaboration with various organizations and the community, the Pundaquit Chamber Players, CSM’s resident ensemble, performs at the Pundaquit Festival which is held yearly, between October and April. 

L-R: George Supetran, the author, Lally Supetran, Coke Bolipata, Bernard Supetran, Amadis Ma. Guerrero  and Kara Santos


Casa San Miguel Center for the Arts: Brgy. Pundaquit, San Antonio, Zambales.

Arrival at Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club (Morong, Bataan)

Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club

Last Saturday, I was invited by events organizer Bernard Supetran to again cover (the first time was last year) the first leg of the Philippine Kayaking Series, the longest running kayaking series in the country, held at Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club in Morong, Bataan.

Gen. Manager George B. Cadhit (center)

Joining us was Bernard’s wife Lally; Mr. Amadis Ma. Guerrero of Philippine Daily Inquirer; Ms. Kara Santos of Sunday Inquirer, with husband Mr. Art Fuentes; and photographers Mr. Edwin Tuyay, of Bloomberg Now, and Mr. Mike Policarpio.

Members of media touring the resort

We left Manila, via a van, by 8:30 AM and reached Anvaya Cove in Morong in Bataan, after a 145-km. drive via NLEX and SCTEX, by 10:30 AM.  Upon arrival at Anvaya, we were all welcomed by Gen. Manager Mr. George B. Cadhit.  As the 32-km. kayak marathon was still underway, we still had time to explore the facilities of the resort and George gladly toured us around.

Check out “Resort Feature: Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club

Anvaya Cove Beach and Nature Club: Brgy. Mabayo, Morong, Bataan.  Tel: (02) 793-9000.  Fax: (02) 793-9088.  E-mail: reservations@anvayacove.com. Website: www.anvayacove.com.

Surfing 101 at Bagasbas (Daet, Camarines Norte)

Learning the basics from BUSA president Ryan Vito

We were now on our last day in Daet and, after covering the 4th Bagasbas Summer Surf Festival, we took time out to learn surfing ourselves.  It would be my second time to try (and failing miserably on 10 tries) and a first for Mark.  Joining us at the surfing clinic was ABC TV5 correspondent Justine Santos, also a second time surfing student.  Mr. Ryan Francis V. Vito, president of the Bagasbas United Surfers Association (BUSA), was on hand to personally teach us the basics of surfing.

Jasmine Santos learning to lie down on the board

First, we were taught the parts of the surfboard.  Then, with the surfboard on the sand, Ryan taught us how to lie down on a surfboard (centered along the stringer), with the toes of our feet touching the tail-end (called the tail block) and making sure that the board is not tilting left or right while we’re trying it. Next, we were taught to push up on the board, with our hands on the sides (called the “rails”) of the board, then when up, to drag one foot up under us in the center of the board and, finally, to push up on our front foot into a standing position, using our arms like legs to push it up. Sounds easy.  Well, it was easier said than done.

Dennis Suing trying to learn the proper stance

Ryan assigned an instructor for each of us.  Champion surfer Ms. Lolita “Mocha” F. Edusma was   assigned to Jasmine while Mr. Joemel Bermejo, Mr. Rolan “Nash” Raro and Mr. Salvador “Onyo” Oclares were assigned to us guys.  BUSA’s instructors were the first in Philippines to be trained by the Academy of Surfing Instructors.  We headed down the beach, away from any surfers, our surfboards harnessed to our ankles. After walking some distance from the shore, I slowly mounted my surfboard with my instructor on the lookout for whitewater, waves that are crested and broken and rolling in long even white lines toward the beach.  With the approach of whitewater, I was told to get ready and whoosh!!!, the whitewater  slowly catches my board and lifts it up as I struggle to stand up and keep my balance while doing so.  Try as I did, I failed to do so with each try, falling each time just as I was getting my footing, getting a face full of salt water every time. I finally gave up when the board hit and sprained my wrist.

Mark Nunez with his instructor Onyo Oclares

I gladly surrendered my board and my instructor to ABC TV5 cameraman Mr. Amor Casiano while the other cameraman Mr. Dencio “Dennis” Suing filmed on. Then, it was Dennis’ turn to try it with Amor manning the camera.  In both cases, as in my case, the waves won with every try, with wipe outs the rule and not the exception.  The same was true with Mark and Jasmine.  Well, better luck next time.  Just, the same it was an experience we would gladly like to try again and again.   Hopefully, there will be a next time.  The waves of Daet haven’t seen the last of us.