Lake Kayangan (Coron, Palawan)

 

Lake Kayangan

Lake Kayangan

After a late lunch and check in at Asia Grand View Hotel, we all boarded our van for the first of two hotel-sponsored activities – an excursion to Lake Kayangan, one of seven enchanting lakes located in the center of Coron Island.  Kayangan is a Tagbanua word meaning “entrance.”  Lake Kayangan is the more popular of two lakes (the other is Barracuda Lake or Luluyuwan Lake) open and accessible to visitors.

Coron Port

Coron Port

L-R - Angelo, the author, Pete, Lindy and Mike (photo: Mike Potenciano)

L-R – Angelo, the author, Pete, Lindy and Mike (photo: Mike Potenciano)

However, before they were opened to the public, a meticulous ritual was performed by the indigenous Tagbanuas to transfer the spirits that are believed to inhabit the place, from Lake Kayangan and Barracuda Lake, to Lake Cabugao. Tagbanuas do not allow visits to the other lakes because they are panyaan (sacred sites) plus they do not want the swiftlet’s (balinsasayaw) nests to be disturbed.

Magnificent limestone karst formations seen along the way

Magnificent limestone karst formations seen along the way

Boat Landing Area

Boat Landing Area

After a short 5-min. drive,we arrived at Coron Port, beside the Coron Public Market, where we boarded a big outrigger boat that would take us to the lagoon.  The boat ride took us 30 mins.

Stairway entrance

Stairway entrance

The climb begins.....

The climb begins…..

Upon arrival at the boat landing area,   we made a short (10-15  min.) but steep and somewhat challenging climb up an uneven, 150-step  paved stairway up a hill to a small cave which is used by Tagbanuas as a shelter during storms.

The cave

The small cave

Cave stalactites

Cave stalactites

Here, we had a breathtaking view of the iconic, awe-inspiring and truly beautiful cove entrance, probably the most photographed site in Coron.  Justifiably, the view from the top is something to look forward to and we took our time taking photographs. From here, it is another 174 steps down to the lake.

The postcard pretty view

The postcard pretty view

Lake Kayangan is a volcanic mountain lake, with crystal-clear, turquoise, brackish and cold, 5-10 m. deep waters hidden among steep and jagged but spectacular and beautiful limestone cliffs.  It is served by a hot spring and has a halocline, a division between the much colder freshwater (70%) and the denser salt water (30%) below, at 14 m..   The lake is a Presidential Hall of Fame Awardee as the cleanest and greenest inland body of water for three consecutive years (1997-1999).

The wooden boardwalk

The wooden boardwalk

Upon arrival at the lake, we stashed our things at a little wooden walkway and platform, donned our mask and snorkel and went for a swim.  Diving is not allowed as the rocks underwater are sharp. Underwater, it was like a moonscape.  I felt like it’s out of this world.  With my snorkel, I saw schools of small (2-3 inches), odd-looking needle nose fish and shrimp swimming about the awesome rock formations.

The crystal clear waters of the lake

The crystal clear waters of the lake

The water does not seem to have any current or waves at all. I am not a qualified free diver with cave experience, but I joined Mike, Libby, Angelo and Ay Lyn as we entered a nice little swim through cave.  Diving is allowed in Barracuda Lake, said to be the home of a solitary, giant barracuda.  The lake is a short 5-10-min. hike along a tricky limestone path to the top.

Inside the swim through cave (photo: Mike Potenciano)

Inside the swim through cave (photo: Mike Potenciano)

The lake water’s varying blues and greens, with the limestone cliffs as backdrop, is just gorgeous. Describing Kayangan Lake as just enchanted is probably an understatement as it is, perhaps, the crown jewel among the best that Coron has to offer. A trip to Coron would not be complete without a visit to Kayangan Lake. Never miss the opportunity to kayak or board a bamboo raft to get to the middle of it. A PhP200 entrance fee, for maintenance, is collected by a Tagbanua guide. Visiting time is 8 AM to 4 PM.

The author

The author

How to Get to Coron: Skyjet Airlines has 4 times weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, 10:30 AM) flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Coron (Francisco Reyes Airport).  Travel time is 30 mins.   

Asia Grand View Hotel: Governor’s Ave., Jolo, Brgy. 5, Coron, Palawan.  Tel:(+632) 788-3385. Mobile number: (0999) 881-7848. E-mail: gsd@asiagrandview.com. Manila sales office: Unit 504, Richmonde Plaza, 21 San Miguel Ave., Ortigas Center, Pasig City.  Tel: (+632) 695-3078 and 531-8380.  Mobile number: (0917) 550-7373 to 75 Fax: (+632) 695-3078.  E-mail: info@asiagrandview.com. Website: www.asiagrandview.com. 

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

The mangrove-lined Sabang River

The mangrove-lined Sabang River

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

After our SabangX Zipline, we were next slated to do the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour, another activity offered and sponsored by Sheridan Resort & Spa.  The mangrove paddleboat cruise offers an educational tour of the mangroves at PhP150 per person. From the zipline landing area, we walked towards the edge of the beach to the mouth of the 4 km. long Sabang River where it flowed out into the West Philippine Sea. At the end of the path, we arrived at Michi’s Cottages where we saw the office for the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour where we registered our names.  We were the last group to avail of the tour.

Start of our tour

Start of our tour

At the river bank, we boarded a paddle boat made of fiberglass.  Joining PJ, Joy, Charmie, Lester and I were Mr. Nestor Elijan, our mangrove paddleboat tour guide, plus a paddler who would propel our boat with an old-style wooden pole that has one broad flat end. For safety purposes, we were each provided and requested to wear standard life vests.  As it was already late in the afternoon, we no longer brought along umbrellas to repel heat from the sun.  The tour lasts from 45 mins. to 1 hour.

Tangled roots of mangroves

Tangled roots of mangroves

Hanging roots

Hanging roots

As our boatman started paddling through the brackish but serene river water that reflects the tall mangrove trees and their beautifully intermingled protruding roots, Mang Nestor explained the importance of these century-old mangroves (locally called bakawan, from the Tagbanua tribal word bakhaw) in the marine and forest ecosystems. Palawan contains 43% of the total mangrove forests in the country and Puerto Princesa City is one place where the total area of mangrove forests is increasing and not decreasing.

Limestone rock formations along the riverbank

Limestone rock formations along the riverbank

Mangrove ecosystems like the one in Sabang, breeding grounds to pelagic fishes, also serve as habitats to a collection of mammals, reptiles and amphibians as well. The mangrove forest, a buffer zone between the land and the sea, breaks the waves before it reaches the land and also serves as a blocker for the strong winds during a storm, thus protecting the coast against erosion. Mangroves also filter bad elements of the land such as insecticide and other chemicals and trash. This protects the coral reefs and sea grass beds from being covered by the debris which block sunlight reaching them.

Tour guide Mr. Nestor Elijan

Tour guide Mr. Nestor Elijan

A former park ranger who watched over Sabang’s environs and went after illegal loggers and poachers, Mang Nestor is also a self-taught mangrove scientist who can identify the different kinds of mangroves, along with the scientific names, at a drop of the hat, and tell whether this or that bakawan is male or female through their leaves.  A number of mangrove species that can be found here are the Rhizopora apiculata (locally called bakhaw lalaki), Rhizophora mucronata (known as the loop-root mangrove or the red mangrove, it is found on coasts and river banks and Bruguiera gymnorrhiza. Mang Nestor talked about “true mangroves,” those that thrive only in mangrove environments, and “mangrove associates,”those that grow in the periphery of mangrove wetlands. There are also mangrove trees that are parasitic, “swallowing” another mangrove associate, depriving it of its share of sunlight and soil.

Mangrove Snake

Mangrove Snake

Along the way, we got a number of close encounters with sleeping Mangrove Cat Snakes (Boiga dendrophila), a 6 to 8 ft. long, elegant but mildly venomous colubrid snake with black and yellow bands, curled around branches of the overhanging mangrove trees.  Mang Nestor told us not to worry, as long as you don’t disturb them they won’t jump. Midway through the tour, our paddle boat passed a makeshift wooden platform with a charming bamboo boardwalk, built over sinuous mangrove roots that led to the bird watching area.

Bamboo boardwalk

Bamboo boardwalk

As we followed the river deeper into the forest, the river narrowed and became shallower and the mangroves stood very high above the ground, its natural canopy shielding us from the sun’s mighty reach.  Somehow, I felt I was in an Amazon forest. On shallower parts of the river, the water spans wider through the forest grounds where roots of the mangroves grow on.

Monitor lizard

Monitor lizard

We saw other mangrove creatures such as a long-tailed macaque, water monitor lizards (Varanus palawanensis, locally called bayawak), mudfish (locally called dalag) and mangrove and cattle egrets. Other mangrove denizens we didn’t see include mudskippers, crabs, oysters, hornbills, ruddy and stork-billed kingfishers, Palawan bearcats (locally called binturong), clawed and clawless otters, pangolin or scaly anteater, mayna, and skunks (locally called pantot).

Dead mangrove tree trunks pockmarked with tamilok holes

Dead mangrove tree trunks pockmarked with tamilok holes

On our way back, our paddler alighted among the mangroves to look for some driftwood bored by tamilok (shipworm), a marine bivalve mollusk that bores into submerged wood. Back at the receiving area, he hacked open the wood to reveal two small worms (according to Mang Nestor, they sometimes reach a length of 2 ft.).  While considered a pest in other countries, the tamilok is a delicacy in these parts and, when dipped fresh in coconut vinegar, are said to taste like oysters. Andrew Zimmern, in one of his episodes in Bizarre Foods, enjoyed eating one of these.  However, harvesting the tamilok for commercial purposes isn’t allowed, as this would affect the mangrove’s ecosystem.

Our paddler looking for tamilok

Our paddler looking for tamilok

Normally, at the end of the tour, visitors are given a chance to contribute to conservation by planting some mangrove saplings in a designated planting area, so that when it becomes a seedling they would move it deep within the forest. The Mangrove Paddleboat Tour, so peaceful and relaxing, was a totally worthwhile experience.  I hope that those who visit Sabang to see the Underground River would include the Mangrove Paddleboat Tour in their itinerary.

A pair of tamilok

A pair of tamilok

Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour: Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.  Mobile numbers (Mrs. Norma Ortega): (0912) 322-3665 and (0926) 829-3095.  E-mail: bingo032374@yahoo.com.

Office for the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour

The Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour starts around 8AM to 10AM, depending on the sun’s visibility, as the tour needs light as little sunlight will make the mangrove really dark. The tour still operates during a storm but not during a very strong typhoon.  It is best to visit the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour during low tides as you will see most of the animals, including those that live on the bottom of the water. To protect against annoying mosquitoes, use insect repellent before the tour. They stop touring guests around 4:30PM.  The Paddle Boat Tour can be combined with the Sabang X Zipline as both attractions are located very close to each other.

Docking area of fiberglass boats

Docking area of fiberglass boats

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website: www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

SabangX Zipline (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

 

The SabangX Zipline

The SabangX Zipline (photo: PJ Enriquez)

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

Back at Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa, after our organic farm tour and lunch, we returned to our respective rooms to freshen up and prepare for our next resort-sponsored activity – the Sabang X Zipline.  After 15 mins., we all met up at the beach in front of the resort and boarded a Xibeihu Amphibious Boat (one of two the resort has) that would take us, on a bumpy ride through Sabang’s resorts, all the way to the mouth of the Sabang River.

The Xibeihu Amphibious Motorboat

The Xibeihu Amphibious Motorboat

Upon arrival, we all alighted our vehicle and boarded a bamboo raft that would take us to the river’s other bank.  The crossing just took us a little over a minute.

The short river crossing

The short river crossing

Once across, we hiked for about 15 mins. along a beautiful, thickly forested and clean white sand beach.  At the end of the shoreline is the entrance to the zipline park.

The short, leisurely hike along a beautiful, deserted white sand beach

The short, leisurely hike along a beautiful, deserted white sand beach

From here, it’s a “short” ” (10-30 minutes, depending on your stamina) uphill trek, along the narrow but well-maintained Monkey Trail through a forest, to the zipline platform tower at the top of the headland located 150 ft. above sea level.

The start of the Monkey Trail hike

The start of the Monkey Trail hike – Joy and PJ climbing a wooden stairway

Charmie and Lester bringing up the rear

Charmie and Lester bringing up the rear

Stepping stones and wooded stairs made the not-so-steep trek easy and there were benches along the path where you can rest.

Stepping stones along the narrow trail

Stepping stones along the narrow trail

The zipline platform

The zipline platform

After registering our names, the zipline staff made sure that we wore orange-colored hard hats and were safely and securely strapped to our harness before letting us “take the plunge.”

The SabangX Zipline staff

The SabangX Zipline staff

The equipment used (oval locking carabiners, trolley, etc.) were reliable French-made Petzl.  Joy took first crack at it, followed by Charmie, yours truly, PJ and Lester bringing up the rear.

The French-made Petzl equipment

The French-made Petzl equipment

The view from the 800 m. (almost ½ mile) long zipline, one of the longest in the Philippines and one of three  (the others are the Palawan Rancho Zipline and the Irawan Canopy Zipline) in Palawan, is amazing.

The author in flight

The author in flight

The gentle, one-and-a-half minute ride was not too fast, giving me some time to enjoy the spectacular, 360 degree view of the pristine blue waters of the West Philippine Sea, mountains and whole of Sabang Beach. What more can you ask for.

The zipline's wooden brake blocks

The zipline’s wooden brake blocks

However, while going down the zipline, it was a bit challenging to turn on the other side.  Wooden brake blocks, at the end of the line, helped slow and finally stop my zipline trolley.  There was a photographer  on both ends taking our pictures.  One hard copy souvenir picture costs PhP150.

The zipline landing hut

The zipline landing hut

The landing hut is located beneath a monolith on an  island whose rocks seemed like collapsed decks piled one on top of the other.  It is connected to the mainland via a sandbar. The Puerto Princesa experience wouldn’t be complete without trying this.

The rocky island where we made our landing

The rocky island where we made our landing

SabangX Zipline: Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.  Ticket Office: Sabang Wharf and La Terrasse, Rizal Ave., Puerto Princesa City.   Tel: (048) 723-3401 and (048) 434-2341. Website: www.sabangxzipline.con. E-mail: sabangxzipline@gmail.com. Fee: PhP550/pax. An additional PhP200 is charged for the Superman position ride.  Open 9 AM – 4 PM.

The author at the mouth of the Sabang River - another adventure begins here

The author at the mouth of the Sabang River – another resort-sponsored adventure begins here

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website:www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

Sheridan Organic Farm (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

Sheridan Organic Farm

Sheridan Organic Farm

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

After snorkeling and merienda at Isla Rita, Charmie, Joy, Lester, PJ and I, together with Mr. Pete Dacuycuy, again boarded our motorized outrigger boat for the 20-min. boat ride back to the mainland.  Upon landing, we all boarded the Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa’s Toyota Grandia van for the short drive to the resort’s signature Organic Farm.

The plant nursery

The plant nursery

Sprouts at the Nursery

“Babies” at the Nursery

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa holds the distinction of being the only luxury resort in Palawan to own and manage an organic farm. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by staff member Ms. Genevieve Celino who toured us around the farm.  We all crossed over a wooden foot bridge, past rice paddies, and started our tour.

Reception area

Reception area

Started four years ago in the fertile terrain of Brgy. Cabayugan, the Sheridan Organic Farm now supplies 80% of the fresh produce served at the resort’s beachfront South Sea Restaurant. Organic farming is a process which involves strict adherence to practices and painstaking trial and error. In this part of the country, organic farming is very challenging as the island of Palawan is not as ideal as other Philippine  islands as it is mostly made of limestone. Since Palawan is also more of a tropical rainforest than farmland, climate is also an issue.

A wooden footbridge

A wooden footbridge

For this the reason, the organic farm only produces certain varieties of vegetables and fruits. However, the fresh and diverse harvest still includes the more common tomatoes, papaya, sweet corn, arugula, cucumber, water melon, lettuce, broccoli, bananas, eggplant, cabbage, pechay, mint and basil as well as the more difficult to grow (in this climate) coriander, parsley, fennel, radish and cauliflower. Fruit trees and ornamental plants are also cultivated.

Ornamental plants

Ornamental plants

The farm is particularly proud of their black rice production with 15% of the 70-hectare the land area dedicated to black rice farming. Of all the pigmented rice, black rice (considered one of the healthiest food types around) has the highest fiber content. Common black rice varieties are usually planted in upland areas but the farm has a variety that can grow in irrigated lowland areas.

Organic Farm (6)

Served at the resort, guests oftentimes end up buying and bringing home bags of the rare black rice. Even after the black rice has been harvested, everything in it is put to good use, with parts used as fertilizer, fuel for the farm’s mechanical dryer and as food for the livestock.

A variety of greens

A variety of greens

The farm is organic as it gets. From the nursery stage to the soil, all the vegetables, herbs, ornamental plants and black rice are cultivated using natural organic farming methods. No synthetic chemical pesticides are used.

Kasuy tree

Kasuy tree

Pesticides and fertilizers, as well as the feeds for the livestock, are all organic and made by the local farmhands themselves using indigenous byproducts and material. Animal waste compost is used as fertilizer. The farm also uses solar and wind energy sources.

A bunch of papayas

A bunch of papayas

The staff also raises livestock such as chickens, pigs, ostriches, ducks, geese, cows, horses, turkey and guinea fowl. The farm is also a source of employment for the Sabang community with at least one person per household in Sabang employed in the farm.

The author at the pathway leading to the gazebo

The author at the pathway leading to the gazebo

Comfortable rattan loungers at the gazebo

Comfortable rattan loungers at the gazebo

After our tour of the farm, we all walked up a hill to a gazebo. For a while here, we lay on some very inviting rattan loungers while enjoying the cool clean breeze and a panoramic view of the farm.  Later, we gathered around a long table for a boodle fight for lunch.

Our boodle fight

Our boodle fight

Spread carefully over banana leaves were several dishes such as barbecue chicken, scrambled eggs, fresh vegetable salad, sweet corn and steamed black rice plus a dessert of sliced pineapples, papaya and watermelon. These we all washed down with bottles of mineral water or hot tea made from a mix of herbs.

Barbecue chicken and sliced papayas

Barbecue chicken and sliced papayas

Black rice and fresh vegetable salad

Black rice and fresh vegetable salad

Sheridan Organic Farm: Brgy. Cabayugan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.  The resort offers 4-hour (Mondays to Saturdays, 9 AM and 1 PM) farm tour to its guests who want a first-hand account of country life and a taste for naturally grown fruits and vegetables. While touring the farm, tourists are sometimes dared to pick these pesticide-free vegetables and eat them raw.

A pair of chickens

A pair of chickens

A parade of geese

A parade of geese

Guinea fowl

Guinea fowl

The resident ostrich

The resident ostrich

One of two resident horses

One of two resident horses

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website:www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

Isla Rita (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

Isla Rita

Isla Rita

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

The next day, after breakfast at South Sea Restaurant, Charmie, Joy, Lester, PJ and I, with Mr. Pete Dacucuy, boarded Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa’s Toyota Grandia van for the 25-min. drive to a beach at Ulugan Bay, a 7,200 hectare bay located on the central, western coast of Palawan which is opened to the northern end of the West Philippine Sea. Situated 47 kms. from Puerto Princesa City, the very deep (no less than 14 fathoms) bay is known for its distinct coastal mangrove forest that is associated with tidal flats.  It has 790 hectares of coral reefs and seagrass beds, and smaller bays.

The coral reef and the island's elongated coastline

The coral reef and the island’s elongated coastline

It also has two islands and three islets. The tiny Tarakawayan Islet, at the head of the bay, lies nearly half a mile offshore, between the Kayulo and Bahile Rivers. South of Tarakawayan is White Rock Islet (or Puting Bato). Reef Islet, locally named Manyokos, lies on the eastern portion of the bay, near Marabay Point.  The 140 ft. high Camungyan Island, more popularly known as Tres Marias Island, is a 3-peaked rock formation and dive site about 2 hrs. by boat from Brgy. Baheli.

The plastic pontoon dock

The plastic pontoon dock

Our destination was to be the elongated, 25-hectare Isla Rita where we were to have a picnic as guests of former city mayor Edward S. Hagedorn.   From the beach, we had to walk some distance to board our big, motorized outrigger boat as it was low tide and the water very shallow. The boat trip took about 20 mins. and we docked alongside a plastic pontoon dock in front of the resthouse.  The 2-storey, native-style resthouse, elevated on concrete stilts, had a spacious wooded porch overlooking the sea at the lower level and a balcony at the second level.  Nearby was a wood and bamboo gazebo, toilet and shower rooms and quarters for the caretakers.

The resthouse

The resthouse

Measuring 1.5 miles in length from north to south, and about 200 yards in breadth, it has white sand beaches on its southwest side. The island also has a detached rock at its northern extremity, the 45 ft. high Observatory Rock which extends in a northerly direction for about 400 yards.

Isla Rita (12)

The island is also a popular dive site.  On the northwest side, the seabed slopes to 9 m. then drops off to 20 m..  Both shelf and wall have lots of hard and soft coral.  Big garoupa and snappers, small reef fish and giant clams are plentiful.  Diving season is November to June. There was to be no scuba diving for us but we availed of the next best thing – snorkeling.  PJ and I donned snorkels, fins and goggles provided for us and walked towards the dock where, just underneath, were two colorful giant clams (Tridacna gigas). Though we didn’t encounter the big garoupa and snappers as I was snorkeling along a staghorn coral forest just near the shore, I still saw a lot of small, colorful reef fish including a pair of Moorish Idols.

The author at Isla Rita

The author at Isla Rita

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website:www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

Puerto Princesa Underground River (Palawan)

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

Upon checking in and having lunch at the Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa, Lester, Charmie, Joy and I walked along Sabang Beach towards the wharf for the first of our resort-sponsored activities – a visit to the world-renowned Puerto Princesa Underground River (PPUR).

Puerto Princesa Underground River

Puerto Princesa Underground River

This beautiful 5,753-hectare national park and terrestrial reserve, considered as one of the most important biodiversity conservation areas in the country, is also is one of the few places where a full mountain to sea ecosystem still exists.  Around the park are the ancestral land domains of at least two indigenous cultural communities (Tagbanuas and Bataks).

Sabang Port

Sabang Port

A major tourist destination in the country, this national park is ideal is a spelunker’s paradise. This underground section of the Cabayugan River, at 8.2 kms. (5.1 mi.), is reputedly the world’s longest navigable underground river.  It is also ideal for trekking, swimming, birdwatching and hiking deep in the forest.

Visitors waiting for their ride at Sabang Port

Visitors waiting for their ride at Sabang Port

The area was declared as a national park on March 26, 1971 by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 835 to protect the unique environmental and cultural features of the area.  In the late 1980s, the late Jacques Cousteau penetrated up to 3 kms. into the cave system.  In 1983-86, its area was increased from 3,901 hectares to its present 5,753 hectares (includes an adjacent area of good forest around Cleopatra’s Needle).

Magnificent limestone cliffs

Magnificent limestone cliffs

In 1986, its jurisdiction was returned to the DENR Southern Luzon Regional Office.  In 1991, its area was expanded to 22,202 hectares.  That same year, it won the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) Gold Award for Environment.  In 1994, management of the park was turned over to the Puerto Princesa city government.  It is also partially supported by the World Wide Fund for Nature.

Puerto Princesa Underground River

The author at Puerto Princesa Underground River

This national park was declared a natural World Heritage Site by UNESCO on December 4, 1999 due to its outstanding universal value and, on January 28, 2012, was voted by the global community as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, for being the longest navigable subterranean river.

Registration Area

Registration Area

The park, managed by the Puerto Princesa City government through a Protected Area Management Board, is the first such national park devolved and successfully managed by a local government unit.  Its mission is to “protect the underground river in its natural state.”

Lester, Joy, Charmie and the author at the beach

Lester, Joy, Charmie and the author at the beach

Lying on the foot of the 1,028-m. high Mt. St. Paul (Sabang’s highest point), the park is located in Sitio. Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan, 81 kms. west of Puerto Princesa City and is bounded on the north by St. Paul’s Bay and on the south by the Babuyan River.  The dome-shaped Mt. St. Paul was named as such after London’s St. Paul Cathedral in 1850 by British sailors of the HMS Royalist.

The short hike from the beach to the lagoon

The short hike from the beach to the lagoon

The park’s topography ranges from flat terrain to rolling hinterlands, from hills to rocky mountains  of marble and limestone, and from rocky shores to white sand beaches. It is also composed of lush tropical old growth forest, thinly vegetated karst limestone cliffs (one-third of the park’s area) and thick jungle cover.   The park also has 290 hectares of marine area encompassing shoreline and offshore corals reefs.

The turquiose lagoon

The turquiose lagoon

The park protects a dense, primary or old growth tropical rainforest which covers two-thirds of the park. Its forest, representing 8 types of forest formations, consists of at least 285 tree species and is dominated by dipterocarps. Vegetation types include lowland forest (often with a 35-m. canopy), coastal and karst forest.  Aside from these, there are also 800 identified plant species.  The underground river supports plant species such as Dracontemelon dao, Pometia primata and Diospyrus sp.

All geared up and ready to go ....

All geared up and ready to go ….

The forest is home to at least 30 species of mammals, 265 bird species, 19 species of reptiles including 2-m. long monitor lizards or bayawak (Varanus salvator) plus 10 species of amphibians. The underground river is inhabited by countless cave-roosting bats plus the endemic and threatened Palawan flying fox (Acerodon leucotis) and the restricted-range Palawan swiftlet (Collocalia palawensis).

Entering Pining Cave

Entering Pining Cave

Ever since being identified as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature, the PPUR management has organized booking to ensure that there would be no overcrowding. Transport from mainland to the entrance to the PPUR is well-organized and they now have environmental charges for the upkeep of the place.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (37)

Into the dark recesses of the cave ……

A “No Permit, no entry” policy is also strictly implemented in the park and, before our going to the park, permits were formally secured from the St. Paul Subterranean River and National Park Office. Once at the port of Sabang, we all waited some time for our turn to board our assigned motorized outrigger boats.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (51)

The 20-min. boat ride from the port to a beach on the northwest coast of the city, on the far side of the bay, was uneventful and smooth all the way. During the trip, we passed many beautiful limestone cliffs along the way.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (83)

Upon arrival at the beach, we all registered our names at the PPUR office and then made a short hike, under huge shady indigenous trees, to the edge of a picturesque clear, turquoise blue lagoon framed by ancient trees growing right to the water’s edge.  On the other side of the lagoon was Pining Cave, the entrance to the underground river.  We again waited our turn to board small 8-seater outriggers boats that would transport us into the cave.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (79)

Soon our turn arrived and we were assigned an English-speaking guide plus an oarsman. Life vests and helmets were provided. Lester and I were seated at the prow of the boat and I was assigned a spotlight on our bow to somehow light up an incredible world carved out of rock.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (62)

Throughout the tour, I was directed by the guide on where to point it. With only this spotlight as light source, my digital camera had a hard time focusing in the dark cave. We were paddled slowly into the deeply fissured, yawning opening of the huge cave below the vertical limestone cliff.  As we entered, vertical slabs of limestone hung over us like giant teeth and edible-nest swiftlets would swoop in over our heads.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (74)

A strip of bacon …… ?

The river is navigable up to about 4.3 kms. (a little over half its length) , with brackish waters underneath going as deep as 30 ft., but a typical 45-min. river cruise covers only 1.5 kms. of the navigable stretch.  We were to pass through a series of caves with cathedral chambers, wide hallways studded with stalactites, stalagmites and other interesting geologic formations.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (49)

As we paddled deeper into the darkness, we reached, at the 0.6-km. mark, the high, vaulted 60 ft. high “Cathedral,” the underground river’s first main attraction.  Everywhere I swung the spotlight, there were bats hanging like fruit from the cave roof.  Their droppings around the walls of the cave gave out a distinct odor.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (52)

Here, our very knowledgeable park guide showed us spectacular limestone formations with a kind of orange toffee color.  The stalactites and stalagmites inside are associated with so many things and a number were aptly named the “Holy Family” (a group of figures like a Nativity scene), the “Angel,” the “Virgin Mary” and the “Candle” (a giant bulbous stalagmite like a melting candle).  The guide would occasionally inject his lecture describing the elements of this natural wonder with some really funny anecdotes and jokes, their creative flair making the experience even more entertaining.

Stalactite

Further on, we passed the “fruit and vegetable” section, with stalagmites on the walls that look like giant mushrooms, garlic, an upside-down corn, a clump of cacao beans, carrots and pumpkins, all as big as the average human being. Our guide also pointed to us what was supposed to be strip of bacon, half the face of Jesus Christ and a woman with shapely legs that he aptly called Sharon Stone.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (92)

Further ahead, at the 1-km. mark, is a marvelous, 400-m. long and straight gallery called “God’s Highway.”  Upon reaching a breathtakingly high dome with a 65 m. (213 ft.) vertical clearance (the cave’s highest point) above river level, our boat turned around.  Not covered by our route was the “Glittering Stone,” at the 3.8-km. mark, and the “Rockpile,” at the 4.3-km. mark.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (55)

The grandeur of the unique formations, small and large chambers, stalactites and stalagmites of the underground river that we saw during our interesting and very enjoyable river boat ride, all uniquely designed by nature, makes it truly deserving as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature.  A truly awesome natural spectacle.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (111)

Exiting the cave

Puerto Princesa Underground River (PPUR) Office: Badjao Inn, 350 Rizal Ave., Brgy. Bancao-Bancao, Puerto Princesa City 5300, Palawan. Tel: +63(48)723-0904 (Sabang). Fax: +63(48)434-2509. E-mail: info@puerto-undergroundriver.com and undergroundriver_ppsrnp@yahoo.com. Website: www.puerto-undergroundriver.com.

Puerto Princesa Underground River (PPUR) Booking Office: City Coliseum, Peneyra Rd., Puerto Princesa City 5300, Palawan. Open Mondays to Fridays, 8AM to 4PM with no lunch break, and Saturdays and Sundays, 8AM-12 noon and 1-5PM.

Steps in applying for a permit:

  1. Get a transaction number and wait for your turn.  Make sure to bring a valid ID with you when you purchase your permit.
  2. Fill out the form and submit personal details for processing. If you book through an agent, they will require the full name and age of everyone in your group.
  3. If you’re a walk-in visitor, proceed to Counters 1 and 2. Tour operators and travel agencies line up on Counters 3 and 4
  4. Let the staff compute the payment.
  5. Obtain the signature of a PAMB representative to finalize your permit.

General Entrance Fees to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park

  1. Adult (Filipino) – P100
  2. Minor (Filipino) – P75
  3. Adult (foreigner) – PhP150
  4. Minor (foreigner) – PhP100
  5. Senior Citizen – PhP100
  6. Differently Abled – PhP100

Cave Entrance fees -includes payment for the paddle boat and use of protective gear (helmets, life vests):

  1. Adult (Filipino) – PhP175
  2. Minor (Filipino) – PhP100
  3. Adult (foreigner) – PhP250
  4. Minor (foreigner) – PhP150
  5. Toddlers and children 3 to 12 years old – PhP75. Children below 2 years old are not permitted for safety reasons.

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website:www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

We arrived at the resort by 9 AM and we all offered a relaxing cold face towel and a welcome drink made with fresh cucumber and pineapple.  The very professional, very visible and thoughtful Mike Villegas, the Resident Manager, was on hand to see to it that the needs of guests like us were attended to.

Sheridan Beach Resort

Sheridan Beach Resort and its signature swimming pool

The 95-room Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa, the only luxury resort in the Sabang area on the west coast of Palawan, was built in 2010 and was developed and operated by Jeco Development Corp.  President Benigno “Noynoy” Aquino III stayed here last February 9, 2011.

Front Desk

Front Desk

This “green” resort is among the seven honored for promoting energy efficiency and renewable energy at the recently concluded Energy Smart Forum organized by the European Chamber of Commerce of the Philippines (ECCP).

Wind turbines

Wind turbines

Wind turbines cover about 70 to 80% of Sheridan’s electricity requirements. During rainy days or when the solar plant cannot produce or when there is scarce wind to power the wind turbines, the resort has back-up generators.

Solar panels

Solar panels

The resort also has a catch basin for rainwater and a water recycling system in place. They also use LED lighting and their airconditioners use inverters. They also have green landscape features and architecture, so they don’t use air-conditioning in our hallways.

De Luxe Room

De Luxe Pool View Room

We were assigned to spacious and modern De Luxe Pool View rooms located at the second floor.  With an area of 30 sq. m., Minimalist-style our guestrooms were tastefully furnished and decorated in a contemporary Asian style with a touch of local culture.

De Luxe Suite (2)

All have split-type airconditioners, comfortable beds, soft, fluffy pillows, a spacious private ensuite bathroom with hot and cold shower, flat screen cable TV with a DVD player, well-stocked minibar, hair dryer, in-room safe, tea and coffee making facility plus rubber slippers, bathrobes, complimentary bottled water and a large umbrella for the use of guests.  The very nice balcony, from which we enjoyed a panoramic view of the large swimming pool, has a retractable aluminum clothes rack where you can hang your wet clothes and towels.

Sabang Room

Sabang Room

Sabang Room Bath

Sabang Room Bath

There are also 30 sq.m. Superior and De Luxe Mountain View Rooms, the 46 sq. m. Palawan and Sabang Rooms and the 76 sq. m. Junior Suite and Sheridan Suite.  The suites and the Palawan and Sabang Rooms have bathtubs.  For groups and families, there are 13 connecting rooms in the De Luxe category.

Chaise lounges by the pool

Chaise lounges by the pool

Its big, 340 ft. (104 m.) long, architecturally interesting infinity swimming pool, said to be the largest in Palawan, is located tight smacked in the center of the entire establishment.  Open 9 AM to 9 PM, it has a constant depth of 4 ft. throughout its length and is separated into two distinct sections.

Childrens pool

Childrens pool

Here, you can play water basketball. Chaise lounges are actually partly submerged at the pool. The swim up Sip n’ Dip Bar (open till 12 midnight) is located in the middle while 3 jacuzzis are located on the sides.

Jacuzzis

Jacuzzis

There are plenty of dedicated lifeguards on duty here (and the beach) as well as pool attendants. A small but excellent outdoor workout gym, with great, state-of-the-art Sports Art Fitness equipment and weights, overlooks the pool.

Outdoor gym

Outdoor gym

The resort also has a 24-hour, beachfront restaurant (South Sea Restaurant), coffee shop, a bar/lounge by the beach (Blue Bar), kiddie swimming pool, 24-hour front desk, convention center, smoking area, shared lounge/TV area, children’s playground, sauna, a sports bar with darts, billiards, table tennis and a giant chess board game, outdoor sports (Segway, beach bikes, ATV rides), barbecue facilities, library near the lobby, game room, watersport facilities (surfboards, wakeboards, kayaks, body board, etc.) and business center. The first-rate, service-oriented staff, who spoke very good English, were really helpful, very nice and extremely polite and friendly.

Convention Center

Convention Center

Sports bar

Sports bar

The gorgeous, well maintained, gradually sloping, relatively quiet, palm-fringed and sugary fine but not so white Sabang Beach has shallow, crystal clear water but is not ideal for snorkeling or diving. Beware of the undertow at the 6-ft. deep level.

Beach Area

Beach Area

The lifeguards use their whistles or bullhorns to call your attention if you venture beyond the safe zone. Facing the beach are benches, sundeck chairs, small tables and cozy, woven reed hammocks under shady coconut trees where we can sit or lie down, nap, read or listen to the waves crashing around you.

The author relaxing by the beach

The author relaxing by the beach

The resort also offers 24-hour room service, laundry service, shuttle, safety deposit boxes, luggage area, car rental, airport transfer, tours, bicycle rental, babysitting, currency exchange, island hopping and express check-in/check-out.  Wi-fi is offered in public areas (lobby and restaurant) but some rooms, mine included, was within reach of wi-fi.

Nature Spa Village

Nature Spa Village

Come evening of my second day at the resort, after a hectic day of island hopping, snorkelling and ziplining,I availed of the signature Sheridan hilot massage at the intimate Sheridan Nature Spa Village.  Truly healing and relaxing.

Nature Spa Village - Interior

Nature Spa Village – Interior

This resort is just s a stone’s throw away (10-min. walk) from the wharf where boats take you to the Subterranean Underground River. Also nearby is the 800 m. long Sabang X zipline (PhP550/pax) where you zip over the sea.  About 15-20 mins away from the resort is Ugong Rock and the mangroves. It’s also an 1.5 hr drive to Honda Bay. Sabang Waterfalls is about a 2-hour roundtrip trek through a very rocky beach.

All Terrain Vehicles

All Terrain Vehicles

A pair of Xibeihu Amphibious Motorboats

A pair of Xibeihu Amphibious Motorboats

The physical beauty and magnificent sweeping vistas of the surrounding, lush green and uniquely shaped mountains, which serves as the resort’s beautiful backdrop, truly made me feel like I was in paradise. Truly, a a mystical, beautiful vacation hideaway in Palawan where heaven and earth meet …..

Sunset at Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa

Sunset at Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website:www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

Buenavista View Deck (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

An invitation, from Mr. Pete Dacuycuy, to join a media team covering the 2-storey, 4-star and eco-friendly and nature-inspired Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa allowed me to reconnect with Palawan, my last visit there being in 1993 during a vacation to Club Paradise Resort in Coron.  It would also be my first visit to Puerto Princesa City.  Joining me and Pete were food blogger Ms. Joy Calipes-Felizardo (www.gastronomybyjoy.com), professional photographer P.J. Enriquez, free-lance travel writer Lester Gopela Hallig and Ms. Charmie Joy Pagulong of The Philippine Star.  We all took the very early 5:20 AM Philippine Airlines flight from NAIA Terminal III.

Buenavista View Deck

Buenavista View Deck

We arrived at Puerto Princesa Airport by 6:40 AM and were whisked, via the resort’s Toyota Grandia van, on a 75-km./2-hour drive through a winding, concrete zigzag road. Just 45 mins. from the resort, we made one stopover at Buenavista View Deck, along a high section of the road to Sabang.

Eatery and souvenir shop

Eatery and souvenir shop

Souvenir shop
It is part of the Community Based Sustainable Tourism program initiated by the Puerto Princesa City Government that aims to provide additional livelihood for locals residing in economically-marginalized communities.
Spectacular view of Ulugan Bay

Spectacular view of Ulugan Bay

A popular stop over for tourists going to Puerto Princesa Underground River and Sabang Beach, it has an elevated concrete observation deck. Climbing the view deck, we had spectacular and relaxing views of Ulugan Bay, a deep channel on the northwestern coast of Puerto Princesa, Rita Island, the rocky outcrops of Tres Marias and Oyster Bay.  Portions of the karst formations of St. Paul’s can be viewed over the intervening areas of dense forests in the north.

Bags

Bags

Hats and caps

Hats and caps

Bracelets

Bracelets

There’s also a small eatery which sells meals and light snacks and a souvenir shop which displays and sells locally made wood carvings (masks, walking canes, chaku, police batons, etc.), baskets, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, hats, T-shirts, ref magnets and key chains.

Chaku and walking canes

Chaku and walking canes

Police batons

Police batons

Corn coffee and honey

Corn coffee and honey

They also sell local food products such as bottled honey, cashew nuts and corn coffee.

Wooden masks

Wooden masks

Baskets

Baskets

Rainmakers

Rainmakers

Buenavista View Deck: Brgy. Buenavista, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.

A Unique Dining Experience

Isla Walang Lang-aw

Upon our return to the resort, from Calauit Island, late in the afternoon, we, as well as all the other resort guests, were again sent off on another boat ride, this time to back to nearby Isla Walang Lang-aw.    This small island, with its limestone cliff (ideal for rock climbing) and white sand bar, was to be the scene of our final dinner.  Our food was brought along in food warmers.  No chairs were provided, but we didn’t mind as we sat on mats on the sand and dined by torchlight.  What a romantic setting!  The night was cool and windy, the sky was clear and the stars were out.

Posing with resort staff

Alas, all good things must come to an end.  The next day, after a very early breakfast, we, together with other guests, left the island via the 7:30 AM boat after being given a warm send-off by the gracious resort staff.  It saddened me as I saw the waving staff, as well as the island, grow smaller as we sped away.  We left on the 10 A.M. Pacific Air flight back to smog-laden, traffic-clogged, garbage-infested and overpopulated Manila.

Calauit Island Game Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary (Busuanga, Palawan)

Calauit Island

After my trial dive,  we booked ourselves on an optional half-day tour of Calauit Island Game Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary, located just off Busuanga Island’s northwestern coast and opened to tourists since 1985.  Cost, including permit and boat ride,  was to set us back US$30 per person.  We left right after lunch at the resort.

An eland

This 3,700-hectare, DENR-administered Strict Nature Reserve was, in response to an appeal made by the International Union of Conservation of Nature (IUCN), was established as a repository for 108 African animals endangered by the 1977 drought and Kenya’s civil war on August 1976 by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 1578 issued by the late Pres. Ferdinand Marcos.  Its original 250 island families were relocated, 40 kms. away, to Halsey Island and compensated with land titles.  Since 1994, it was managed by the Office of Palawan Council for Sustainable Development, a  government body dealing with environmental issues in Palawan.

On our way to Calauit

We, together with other resort guests, left the resort by 1 PM on the resort’s motorized outrigger boat.  The trip took about 45 mins.  Upon arrival, we first logged in at the sanctuary’s office.  Then, accompanied by a guide, we ushered to the back of the sanctuary’s only “safari” vehicle, a converted 6 x 6 truck which resembled a huge open cage.  From our slow-moving and somewhat dilapidated truck, we got up close and personal with these herbivores as some fed near the road we were traveling while zebras grazed under shading trees.  Bushbucks (Tragelaphus sylvaticus), Grévy’s zebra (Equus grevyi), Common Eland (Taurotragus oryx), Topi (Damaliscus lunatus jimela), Impala (Aepyceros melampus), Thomson’s gazelle (Eudorcas thomsonii),  Reticulated Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata) and Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus) can be seen, in pairs or in groups, as they feed or gracefully gallop at the sign of our presence.

A short necked giraffe

Graceful giraffes, with their somewhat shorter necks (maybe because trees here are shorter), were unmindful of our presence as they continued  feasting on the branches of their favorite acacia trees.  Our vehicle halted when these tall “jaywalkers” crossed the road.  Others stayed put for a short while as if purposely posing for our cameras.   Too bad we weren’t able to bond or interact with the giraffes by feeding them (it is discouraged), truly a highlight of any trip to the sanctuary.  Such an experience would probably  come second to swimming beside a whale shark or butanding off Donsol (Sorsogon).

Zebras in the wild

From the original 108 African animals brought here in 1977, 3 or 4 generations of offspring have increased the animal population to 570  heads comprising 8 species, all herbivorous.  At the time of our visit, there were now 43 giraffes, 155 impalas, two Thompson gazelles, 122 water bucks, 78 zebras, 50 elands, 14 topis and 16 bushbucks. Together with indigenous animals, they range freely around the island in an environment that loosely approximates their original environment.

The Palawan bearcat

The guided tour includes stops at pens holding many of Palawan’s indigenous species.  The sanctuary has saved from extinction, by  successfully breeding in captivity, the foot-high The Philippine mouse-deer (Tragulus nigricans) or pilanduk, the smallest hoofed animal found in Asia; the largely nocturnal and endangered Calamian Deer (Hyelaphus calamianensis)  and the Philippine reshwater crocodile (Crocodylus mindorensis) which now lives along the mangrove swamps.  Also bred in captivity are the Palawan bearcat or Binturong (Arctictis binturong), Palawan bearded pig (Sus ahoenobarbus), tarsier or mago (Tarsius philippensis), scaly anteater or balintong (Manis javanica), leopard cat or maral (Felis bengalensis), Philippine porcupine (Hystrix pumila) or landak/duryan  and monitor lizard (Varanus salvator).  I had a very close encounter with a forever hungry binturong.  Too close, in fact, that he snarled when I tried to feed him a banana.

An encounter with a snarling bearcat

There are also over 120 species of birds, endemic and transient and, as a boon to birdwatching enthusiasts, the personnel here are quite capable of identifying these birds.  There are also protected rearing and egg-laying areas for giant sea turtles or pawikan (Chelonia mydas). The project also includes a 7-km. marine sanctuary which protects the highly endangered 16-20 dugongs or sea cows (Dugong dugon) that feed along the offshore sea grass beds, and  7 species of clams including what is believed to be the largest live giant clam shell (Tridacna gigas) in the world which weighs as much as 300 kgs..  As fishing is prohibited, commercial fishes, crabs and lobsters now breed here in undisturbed .  The coral reefs around the island have shown a 75% recovery rate.