Category Archives: Arts

Church of St. Andrew the Apostle (Makati City, Metro Manila)

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The modern, tent-like Church of St. Andrew the Apostle

The modern, beautifully designed Roman Catholic Church of St. Andrew the Apostle, a unique monument of sorts that honors a community’s Catholic faith, a legacy of a visionary businessman, and the artistry of the Filipino, all rolled into one, has the eye-catching form and a unique layout that reflects the ingenuity of its creator, my late uncle and National Artist for Architecture (1990) Leandro V. Locsin and, overall, the church structure  pays homage to the Space Age era of the ’60s.

The author with the church in the background

In 1965, a group of residents belonging to the village communities of San Miguel and Bel-Air dreamed of having a parish that they could call their own.  Rufino Cardinal Santos approved the establishment and formation of the parish and appointed Msgr. Emilio Bularan as the first parish priest.

There dream came true when Don Andrés Soriano Jr., President of the conglomerate  San Miguel Corporation, offered to have a church built in honor of his late father, the loved and respected Don Andres Sr.. The parish was to be named after St. Andrew the Apostle, the patriarch’s namesake (“Andres” is Spanish for “Andrew”), the patron saint of Metro Manila and Bel-Air Village in Makati.

My son Jandy

On February 8, 1967 (the 69th birth anniversary of the late Don Andres Soriano the Feast of St. Andrew), the cornerstone of the proposed church was laid at the 3,494-sq. m. (37,610 sq. ft.) lot donated by the Ayala family through the Makati Development Corporation.

The church interior

The construction of the church employed the round, concrete-heavy design of Leandro V. Locsin, then an up and coming architect, whose first notable work was the Church of the Holy Sacrifice in the University of the Philippines Diliman campus, itself a round concrete church completed in 1955. It’s interesting to note that, around this time, the future National Artist for Architecture was also busy in the design of the Cultural Center of the Philippines Main Theater, considered his magnum opus.

Check out “Church of the Holy Sacrifice”

The halo-like chandelier above the altar

After about a year’s time, on November 30, 1968, St. Andrew the Apostle Parish was formally opened at half past eight in the morning.  The unveiling of the church marker was witnessed by Andres Soriano Jr. (San Miguel Corporation); Jose Ma. Soriano (Chairman and President of A. Soriano y Cia); Enrique Zobel (President of the Ayala Corporation); and other donors from Roxas y Cia.

Commemorative plaque

In 2002, Msgr. Emmanuel Sunga supervised the improvement of flooring, the provision of airconditioning, building of Parish Office annex, refurbishment of halo chandelier, the altar of the church and the construction of the carillon bell tower.

The copper cross (Vicente Manansala)

Aside from Leandro V. Locsin, the Church of St. Andrew the Apostle also boasts works of two other renowned Filipino National Artists. For instance, the copper cross that hangs on top of the altar is a work of the late Vicente Manansala, National Artist for Visual Arts – Painting (1981).

The white baptismal font designed by Napoleon Abueva

The baptistery also boasts works of the late Napoleon V. Abueva, National Artist for Visual Arts – Sculpture (1976), who designed the white baptismal font. Additionally, the late Eduardo S. Castrillo also created the sculpture as well as the blue baptismal font at the baptistery.

The blue baptismal font designed by the late sculptor Eduardo Castrillo

The sculpture, done by the late sculptor Eduardo Castrillo, of the Baptism of Christ by St. John the Baptist

This project was to be one of many collaborations between Abueva and Locsin.  Aside from this church, they also collaborated on the abovementioned Church of the Holy Sacrifice in Diliman (Quezon City), the Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary in Quezon City (1975), and the Church of St. Alphonsus Mary de Liguori in Makati City (1968).

Check out “Church of St. Alphonsus Mary de Liguori”

The unique cross shape at the top of the church

The design of the unique cross shape, seen in the church’s peak, is symbolic of the manner the martyr died crucified on an X-shaped cross, formally called a saltire.  Christian tradition states that Andrew, one of the 12 disciples/apostles of Jesus Christ, was put to death by crucifixion on such a cross as he felt he was unworthy to be crucified on the regular cross (also called the Latin cross) that Christ was crucified onto. Today, this type of cross has also come to be known as the “St. Andrew’s cross.”

The church carillon

An example of biomorphic architecture, it resembles coconut leaves bundled together to make a giant native salakot.  This parish church is flanked by curved concrete walls while the curved shell is made of thin-shell concrete, considered revolutionary during its time.  The pews surrounding the altar form an octagon.

The arrangement of the church pews

The tent-like church’s butterfly shaped floor plan emanates from this cruciform. A symbolic feature is the giant customized circular chandelier suspended over the cross and the altar which is reminiscent of a saintly halo.

Statue of St. Andrew the Apostle

Church of St. Andrew the Apostle: 62 Constellation cor. Nicanor Garcia St. (formerly Reposo St.), Bel-Air Village, Makati City 1209 Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 8890 1796 and 8890-1743. E-mail: saapoffice@gmail.com, secretariat@saaparish.com and media@saaparish.com.  The parish territories are Bel-Air Village and Salcedo Village in Barangay Bel-Air, Rizal Village and Santiago Village in Barangay Valenzuela, and San Miguel Village in Barangay Poblacion.

Hosier Lane (Melbourne, Australia)

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The narrow, cobblestoned Hosier Lane

We were now on our last day in Melbourne and they say you shouldn’t leave the city without taking the time to explore at least one of the city’s laneways and street art in Melbourne, a defining characteristic of the city, is celebrated here and its urban art scene is known across the globe.

Another view of Hosier Lane. Bar Tini on the left

Melbourne, the cultural capital of Australia and one of the great street art capitals, oozes art out of its pores. Just by walking its many alleyways, one would be shocked by the amount of incredible, constantly changing street art, with layers and layers of spray paint on every surface – walls, dumpsters, pipes, windows and the street below.

L-R: Jandy, Grace, Kyle and the author

Union Lane, ACDC Lane (immortalizing Australian kings of rock), Degrave Street and Croft Alley in Chinatown are some of the few lanes that are full of colorful works but the city’s most popular laneway is Hosier Lane and this we explored. A much celebrated landmark mainly due to its sophisticated urban art, it showcases the best graffiti and street art talent in the city.

Check out “Melbourne Chinatown“

Street mural of Andrew Gibbons, a Melbourne-based independent artist

This sloping alley, set with rough bluestone paving stones, is the epicenter of Melbourne’s street art scene, containing the area’s densest collection of spray-painted masterpieces.

Declared a “graffiti tolerance zone” by the city council, it has been well-known for the quality and the often political nature of its street art and graffiti created by local and international artists alike.  In Melbourne, street art is legal with the proper written permission from the building owner.  In a heritage control area, a planning permit may also be required for a property.

The city is home to some of the best graffiti artists in the world and their creativity is abundantly on display on Hosier Lane. Over the years, layer upon layer of spray paint and other mixed-media have been sprayed on every inch of the walls of the street and its side alleys.

From Hosier Lane’s cobbled length, we joined camera-wielding crowds and wannabe Instagram models posing in front of edgy graffiti, stencils, paste-ups, murals and art installations, taking in the dizzying array of colors, characters and shapes.  Others watch these from the comfort of the window seats at Bar Tini.

The art’s subject matter, running to the mostly political and counter-cultural, is spiced with irreverent humor. Due to the dynamic nature of street art, this pedestrian laneway, covered from beginning to end, with not a single square foot left untouched, is constantly changing and no two visits will be the same. Even if I wasn’t a fan of the graffiti movement, Hosier Lane was still a site to behold. Too bad we didn’t get to witness a street artist in action.

Previously, Hosier Lane has been fairly empty of private enterprise, its e main tenant being the Youth Project (which provides crucial services for the disadvantaged).

The rear entrance of Culture Kings. The flanking murals were later replaced by a commissioned Lizzo mural

However, Culture Kings, the monolithic clothing chain, has opened its second entrance (rear) along this iconic lane. Critics now fear commercialization of street art itself with an increase in corporate-funded artworks, stunts, and installations, which includes murals-as-ads.

NOTES:

On the evening (7:30 PM) of February 8, 2020 (Saturday), just a little over three months after our visit, a group of mask-wearing artists, in a coordinated project, almost completely hosed down Hosier Lane in an attempt to combat what some see as the commodification of public space, particularly a place that is important to the street art scene.

Some of the murals affected include the commissioned promotional mural art of Lizzo on the Culture Kings storefront and the mural of comedian Celeste Barber (painted in the wake of her massive bush fire fundraising efforts last month). Aside from the promotional art on the Culture Kings storefront, the lane has also seen ads for the Melbourne Football Club and UFC matches pop up recently, among other things.

The protesters used paint-filled fire extinguishers to coat the various murals lining the walls of the laneway. About a quarter of the street art was ruined. Clean up crews used high pressured hoses to remove the paint that settled on the laneway’s cobblestones.

 

The author

How to Get There: Hosier Lane, located near the city center, lies opposite the entrance to the Atrium at Federation Square on Flinders Street, a prominent position in the city. The nearest stations to Hosier Lane areSt. Paul’s Cathedral/Flinders Street (Melbourne City), a 117-m. (2-min.) walk away; 6-Russell Street/Flinders Street (Melbourne City), a 178-m. (3-min.) walk away; and Collins Street/Russell Street (Melbourne City), a 193-m. (3-min.) walk away.

Federation Square (Melbourne, Australia)

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Federation Square

Federation Square, a venue for arts, culture and public events on the edge of the Melbourne central business district, covers an area of 3.2 ha (7.9 acres) and was built above busy railway lines and across the road from Flinders Street station.

It incorporates major cultural institutions (Ian Potter Centre, ACMI, Koorie Heritage Trust, etc.) as well as cafes and bars, in a series of buildings centered around a large paved square, and a glass walled atrium.

Check out “Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia“

Melbourne’s central city grid was designed without a central public square, long seen as a missing element. From the 1920s there were proposals to roof the railway yards on the southeast corner of Flinders and Swanston Streets for a public square, with more detailed proposals prepared in the 1950s and 1960s.

In the 1960s, the Melbourne City Council decided that the best place for the City Square was the corner of Swanston and Collins Streets, opposite the town hall. The first temporary square opened in 1968, and a permanent version opened in 1981. It was however not considered a great success, and was redeveloped in the 1990s as a smaller simpler space in front of a new large hotel.

Meanwhile, in the late 1960s, a small part of the railway lines had been partly roofed by the construction of the Princes Gate Towers, known as the Gas & Fuel Buildings after their major tenant, the Gas and Fuel Corporation, over the old Princes Bridge station.

This included a plaza on the corner, which was elevated above the street and little used. Between the plaza and Batman Avenue, which ran along the north bank of the Yarra River, were the extensive Jolimont Railway Yards, and the through train lines running into Flinders Street station under Swanston Street.

This open public square had its beginnings in 1996 when the then Premier Jeff Kennett announced that the Gas & Fuel Buildings would be demolished, the rail yards roofed and a complex including arts facilities and a large public space to be named Federation Square would be built.

Lobby of Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia

It was opened in 2001, in time to celebrate the centenary of Australia’s Federation, and included performing arts facilities, a gallery, a cinemedia center, the public space, a glazed winter garden, and ancillary cafe and retail spaces.

Built at a cost of approximately $467 million (over four times the original estimate of between $110 and $128 million), its main funding came primarily from the state government, some from the federal government, $64 million from the City of Melbourne while private operators and sponsors paid for fit outs or naming rights. The square was opened on October 26, 2002.

Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) – Australia’s national museum of film, video games, digital culture and art

In 2006, the vaults under Princes Walk (a former roadway) were redeveloped by Federation Wharf into a large bar, with extensive outdoor areas on the Yarra riverbank, with elevator access to Federation Square.

In October 2011, Elizabeth II visited Federation Square. On October 2018, an interim decision to list Fed Square to the Victorian Heritage Register resulted in the square being formally listed in August 2019.

Occupying roughly a whole urban block bounded by Swanston, Flinders, and Russell Streets and the Yarra River, Federation Square is directly opposite Flinders Street station and St Paul’s Cathedral.

The precinct’s layout was designed to connect Melbourne’s historical central district with the Yarra River and Birrarung Marr, a new park.

Its complex and irregular design had gently angled ‘cranked’ geometries (predominating in both the planning and the facade treatment of the various buildings and the winter gardens that surrounded and defined the open spaces) while a series of ‘shards’ provided vertical accents.

Interconnected laneways and stairways and the winter garden connects Flinders Street to the Yarra River. The open square, arranged as a gently sloping amphitheater, is focused on a large viewing screen for public events, with a secondary sloped plaza area on the main corner.

The 1.3 m. high bronze statue of the Fearless Girl by Kristen Visbal

Federation Square: intersection of Flinders and Swanston Streets.

Ian Potter Center: NGV Australia (Melbourne)

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Ian Potter Centre – NGV Australia

The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, an  art gallery that houses the Australian part of the art collection of the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV), is a legacy of the businessman and philanthropist Sir Ian Potter. It presents the story of Australian art through a comprehensive program of temporary exhibitions and extensive displays.

Check out “Federation Square”

Museum entrance

The country’s first public art museum dedicated to Australian art, it houses one of the oldest and most well known art collections in the country and has almost 25,000 Australian artworks, including paintings, sculpture, prints, photography, fashion and textiles.

Museum lobby

At one time, approximately 800 works are displayed in the new building and many of these are rotated frequently to show the full breadth and diversity of Australian art, and to provide visitors with fresh insights. The NGV’s international works are displayed at the NGV International on St Kilda Road.

The author at the museum

The collection, also acknowledging the power, primacy and cultural diversity of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art, presents some of Indigenous art’s major historical and contemporary works. The collection includes works in a range of media by male and female artists, including William Barak, Judy Watson, Emily Kngwarray and Uta Uta Tjangala.

Autumn Memories (Frederick McCubbin)

Well-known and superb works featured at the Ian Potter Centre include  non-Indigenous art, from the Colonial period to the present day, including some of the genre’s most iconic paintings such as Frederick McCubbin‘s poignant triptych The Pioneer (1904), Tom Roberts‘ Shearing the Rams (1890), and works from Sidney Nolan, Arthur Boyd, Albert Tucker, Arthur Streeton, John Perceval, Margaret Preston, Bill Henson, Howard Arkley and Fred Williams.

The Bathers (E. Phillips Fox)

The Ian Potter Centre, designed by Lab Architecture Studio in association with Bates Smart of Melbourne, headed by Peter Davidson and Donald Bates, has earned the designers the RAIA National Award for Interior Architecture as well as the Marion Mahony Interior Architecture Award.

Black Sun (Inge King)

There was plenty to see in the normal free exhibitions so, unless you have a particular interest in the special ones, you’ll still see lots and enjoy the visit.

Faun and Nymph (Rayner Hoff, bronze)

As we arrived just a little over an hour before closing time during our visit, we just saw the free exhibits which were Lucy McRae Body Architect, Petrina Hicks: Bleached Gothic, Olympia: Photographs by Polixeni Papapetrou, Marking Time: Indigenous Art from the NGV, Roger Kemp: Visionary Modernist, The Joseph Brown Collection, Civilization: The Way We Live Now, 20th Century Australian Art and Late 20th and 21st Century Australian Art.

Check out “Lucy McRae Body Architect Exhibit,” “Petrina Hicks: Bleached Gothic Exhibit,” “Olympia: Photographs by Polixeni Papapetrou Exhibit,” “Marking Time: Indigenous Art from the NGV Exhibit,” “Roger Kemp: Visionary Modernist Exhibit,” The Joseph Brown Collection Exhibit,” “Civilization: The Way We Live Now Exhibit,” “20th Century Australian Art Exhibit” and “Late 20th and 21st Century Australian Art Exhibit.”

Marking Time: Indigenous Art From the NGV (Level 3, August 17, 20 19 – June 14, 2020) explores drawings and markings of figures, signs or text made on public surfaces across Indigenous Australia, from rock face to now.

Marking Time

Reko Rennie and Brook Andrew translated incisions, on carved trees or shields, into bold neon icons, whereas Josh Muir and Hannah Brontë used video art to communicate voices of dissent, create dialogue between groups and to effect change.

Marking Time

The Joseph Brown Collection (Level 2) displays the outstanding private collection of Australian art of artist, soldier, scholar, connoisseur, successful businessman and art dealer Dr Joseph Brown AO OBE, donated in May 2004, the most generous single gift of works of art ever made to a public gallery in Australia.

The Joseph Brown Collection

The Joseph Brown Collection

Civilization: The Way We Live Now (Ground Level, September 13, 2019 – February 2, 2020), an international photography exhibition of monumental scale, exhibits over 200 original photographs of over 100 contemporary photographers from Africa, the Americas, Asia, Australia and Europe.

Civilization – The Way We Live Now

In this increasingly globalized world, the exhibition explores photographers’ representations of life in cities as its key theme and presents a journey through the shared aspects of life in the urban environment.

Bryan, Cheska and Kyle at the Civilization: The Way We Live Now exhibit

The modern and bright Crossbar Café, on Level 3, has lovely views of the Yarra River.

White Sacred Baboon (Brett Whiteley)

Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia: Federation Square, Flinders St. and Russell St., Melbourne, Victoria 3000, Australia. Open daily, 10 AM- 5 PM. Closed Christmas Day and Good Friday. Admission to the permanent collection is free. Fees may apply to special exhibitions, as advertized. Tel: 8620 2222. E-mail: enquiries@ngv.vic.gov.au. Website: www.ngv.vic.gov.au.

State Library Victoria (Melbourne, Australia)

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State Library Victoria

On our fifth day in Melbourne, the first item in our city tour itinerary was the nearby State Library Victoria, the state‘s premier reference and research library, a gateway to the world’s information and a Melbourne landmark and cultural icon.

The library, located in the northern center of the central business district, comprises 23 individual buildings ((including the magnificent, 19th century building) and occupies an entire city block bounded by Swanston, La Trobe, Russell, and Little Lonsdale streets.

The Classic colonnade completed in 1870. In front is the statue of Sir Redmond Barry

During our visit, the grassy lawn, in front of the library’s grand entrance along Swanston Street, was filled the city’s workers and students from the adjacent RMIT University.  Originally, the lawn was enclosed by a picket fence and, in the 1870s, by a wrought iron fence and gates.  In 1939, with the removal of the fence and the creation of diagonal paths, the space was opened up and is now a popular lunch-spot.

Here are some interesting trivia regarding this library:

  • It is Australia’s oldest public library
  • The Melbourne Public Library, as it was then known, was one of the first free libraries in the world,, open to anyone over 14 years of age, so long as they had clean hands.
  • It also houses some of the original armor of Ned Kelly.
  • As a result of the 1990 to 2004 redevelopment, the State Library Victoria can now be considered one of the largest exhibiting libraries in the world.
  • On completion, the dome of the Domed Reading Room was the largest in the world.
  • The library forecourt, a popular location for protest meetings and a rallying point for marches, is also the site of a speakers’ forum where orators, on Sundays, between 2:30 PM and 5:30 PM, take turns in speaking on various subjects.
  • The exterior of the library is prominently featured at the conclusion of the post-World War III movie On the Beach.

The Library’s vast collection includes more than five million items, reflecting the culture of Victoria over the past 150 years. There are over two million books and more than a million photographs; journals and magazines; manuscripts; maps; hundreds of thousands of newspapers, with a special focus on material from Victoria, including the diaries of the city’s founders, John Batman and John Pascoe Fawkner, and the folios of Captain James Cook.

They also house audio, video and digital material.  The complex of buildings that now houses the Library were built in numerous stages, housing various library spaces, art galleries and museum displays.

Many of the library’s electronic databases, including the full Encyclopædia Britannica; Oxford Reference dictionaries and encyclopedias; multi-subject magazine and journal article databases; newspaper archives of most major Australian and international papers from 2000 onwards; and specialist subject databases, are available from home to any Victorian registered as a State Library User.

Sir Redmond Barry (John Botterill, 1875)

The library’s collection includes 70,000 photographs in 2,000 rolls of film containing photographs of Melbourne and country Victoria from the early 1970s that are in the process of being digitized and made available to the public.

Charles La Trobe (Sir Francis Grant)

Here is the historical timeline of the library:

  • In 1853, at the instigation of Lieutenant-Governor Charles La Trobe and  Justice Redmond Barry, Q.C. (Sir Redmond from 1860), the decision to build a combined library, museum and gallery was made. A competition was held, won by the recently arrived architect Joseph Reed, whose firm and its successors went on to design most of the later extensions, as well as numerous 19th-century landmarks such as the Melbourne Town Hall, and the Royal Exhibition Building.
  • On July 3, 1854, the recently inaugurated Governor Sir Charles Hotham laid the foundation stone of both the new library complex and the University of Melbourne.
  • On February 11, 1856, the library’s first stage (the central part of the Swanston Street wing) was opened with a collection of 3,800 books chosen by Mr. Justice Barry, the President of Trustees.
  • On May 1856, Augustus H. Tulk, the first librarian, was appointed.
  • In 1860, Joseph Reed designed a grand complex for the whole block including a domed section facing Russell Street to house the Museum and Gallery.
  • In 1859, the south part of the front wing, including the elaborate first floor Queen’s Reading Room (now Queen’s Hall), was opened.
  • In 1864, the northern part, added by Abraham Linacre, was completed.
  • In 1866, a number of halls, just behind the front wing and meant to be temporary, were built for the Intercolonial Exhibition of Australasia. They remained in use until 1909.
  • In 1870, the classical portico was completed.
  • In 1886, Barry Hall, along Little Lonsdale Street, was completed.
  • In 1887, a memorial statue of Mr Justice Sir Redmond Barry, C., by James Gilbert and built by Percival Ball, was installed on the central landing of the main stairs.
  • In 1889, the National Museum of Victoria moved to library site.
  • In 1889, the statue of Saint George and the Dragon (flanking the entrance plaza), by the English sculptor Sir Joseph Edgar Boehm, was installed.
  • In 1892,the McCoy Hall, now the Redmond Barry Reading Room, was completed
  • In 1907, the statue of Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc), a replica of the statue by French sculptor Emmanuel Frémiet, was installed.
  • In 1909, work began on the library’s famed Domed Reading Room
  • In 1909, the Baldwin Spencer Hall, facing Russell Street, was completed.
  • In 1913, the Domed Reading Room was opened
  • In 1932, the McAllan Gallery, along the LaTrobe Street side, was completed.
  • In 1937, due to deterioration, a pair of bronze lions flanking the entry from the 1860s, were removed.
  • In 1959, due to water leakage, the dome’s skylights were covered in copper sheets, creating the dim atmosphere that characterized the Library for decades.
  • In 1968, the National Gallery of Victoria moved to its new purpose built home in St Kilda Road
  • In 1971, the Lending Library closed.
  • From 1990 to 2004, the library underwent an approximately A$200 million major refurbishment designed by architects Ancher Mortlock & Woolley. It included the creation of a number of exhibition spaces, some of which are used to house permanent exhibitions – “The Mirror of the World: Books and Ideas,” “The Changing Face of Victoria” and the “Pictures Collection” (Cowen Gallery).
  • In 1992, the library finally filled the entire block
  • In 1998, the World War I commemorative statues “Wipers” and “The Driver,” at the center points of the 1939 diagonal paths, were relocated to the ground of the Shrine of Remembrance.
  • From 1999-2002, during renovations of its buildings, National Galley of Victoria returned to its original library home briefly, occupying the Russell Street halls.
  • In 1999, the reading room closed to allow for renovation, when the skylights were reinstated.
  • In 2003, the renamed La Trobe Reading Room was reopened.
  • In February 2010, the southern wing of the library, along Little Lonsdale Street, was reopened as the Wheeler Centre, part of Melbourne’s city of literature
  • In 2006, a statue of Charles La Trobe, by Australian sculptor Peter Corlett, was installed in the north east corner of the lawn.
  • In 2015, better meet the changing needs of the community, the Library embarked on a five-year, $88.1 million redevelopment project (Vision 2020), designed by Danish architectural firm Schmidt Hammer Lassen Architects and Australian architecture and design studio Architectus, to transform its public spaces, programs and facilities.
  • On April 29, 2015, Martin Foley (Minister for Creative Industries) announced that the 2015–16 State Budget would provide $55.4 million towards the redevelopment of State Library Victoria, including the restoration of the Queen’s Hall, the creation of a rooftop garden terrace, a dedicated children’s and youth space, and the opening up 40% more of the building to the public.
  • In late 2017, the library’s contribution of $27 million from donations was eventually raised.
  • In September 2018, the main Swanston Street entrance was temporarily closed and replaced by the newly refurbished Russell Street and La Trobe Street entrances.

Check out “Shrine of Remembrance” and “Royal Exhibition Building“

Grace exploring Victoria Gallery

Upon entry, the first area we visited was the newly refurbished Victoria Gallery.  The interactive Velvet, Iron, Ashes exhibition, opened on October 24, 2019, was ongoing (until July 12, 2020).

Centenary of Victoria Costume

Its showcases more than 200 items from the Library’s own collection plus additions from other major institutions and private collections. The exhibition was open to all ages and free to attend.

Ned Kelly’s Armor

Here, we learned some illustrious stories about Ned Kelly, the Ashes Urn (exclusively loaned from Marylebone Cricket Club in London and displayed from November 2019 until February 2020), Yallourn Power Station and even Nappie Wash, how fairy floss is linked to fancy dress, how the Freddo the Frog is tied to one of the greatest air races in history, and what the Ashes Urn and Ned Kelly’s armor have in common.

Map-O-Matic device in the foreground

A retro-style Map-o-Matic device, which allows visitors to print out a map, opened up a world of storytelling to a new generation of Victorians.

North Rotunda

At the North Rotunda are exhibits (September 2, 2019-September 2, 2020) of a selection of the Library’s 21st-century paintings, by living Australian artists, of Melbourne cityscapes.

Across the city, Rick Amor’s work, shows distant views of the city from remote hills, the Yarra River and docklands, and across rooftops. Abstracted views of urban sites and landmarks, which provoke reflection on our interaction with the built environment, are presented by Tony Lloyd’s Skystone, William Mackinnon’s Exit and Louise Forthun’s Toffee and Ice.

Exit (William Mackinnon)

Toffee and Ice (Louise Forthun)

There are also depictions of Melbourne’s hallowed sporting grounds – Josie Kunoth Petyarre’s view of the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground, the home of Australian Rules Football, Shane Jones’s Flemington Racecourse (showing the birthplace of the internationally renowned Melbourne Cup horse race), etc..

Cowen Gallery

The Cowen Gallery, refreshed In 2018, features a permanent display of more than 40 works of art from the State Library’s 2003–18 Cowen Gallery exhibition, which included colonial and modern portraits, paintings of Victorian landscapes, iconic Melbourne landmarks and artists’ impressions of events from Victoria’s history.

Black Thursday (William Strutt)

The rehung exhibition includes a greater representation of 20th-century artists such as Eric Thake, Arthur Boyd, Fred Williams and Juan Davila. The northern end of the room is framed by William Strutt’s Black Thursday  February 6th, 1851 (1864) and Juan Davila’s Churchill National Park  (2009) while the southern end of the room features Reinhold Hofmann’s Melbourne 1836  (c. 1886) and Jan Senbergs’  Melbourne 1998-99 which explores the city and urbanization. 

Churchill National Park (Juan Davila)

The adjacent Blue and Red Rotundas house portraits and busts of Victorians. 

Redmond Barry Reading Room

The Redmond Barry Reading Room, at the eastern end of the Library, is easily the busiest room during pre-exam period in Victoria. It houses a contemporary collection of books, magazines, and periodicals. The center of the room has internet-enabled computers and shared desks while the mezzanine has folio-size books and more independent study desks. The ceiling has glass panels.

The Heritage Collections Reading Room (HCRR), though it does not hold any collections (save for map bags consisting of copies of maps of Metropolitan Melbourne, between the 1800s to 1900s), is a place to view heritage collection materials. Entry here is by appointment (however, no appointment is required to see the maps). It has 14 historical pendant lamps hanging off the ceiling plus a detailed ceramic embossed wall and ceiling.

The Heritage Collections Reading Room

The Arts Collection Reading Room, built in a courtyard (hence the angular shape of the room), maintains an extensive, world-class collection of books, periodicals, recordings and other materials pertaining to art, music and the performing arts.  The main room, housing computer workstations (which provide access to the Library’s catalog, databases and the web), reading tables, laser printer, photocopier and a microfiche reader, also has an audio visual room and listening posts.

The Herald and Weekly Times Newspaper Reading Room

The Genealogy Reading Room, located in one of the courtyards, has an extensive collection of microfilms and microfiche, printed references, databases, and biographies. There are many facilities available such as computers and a laser printer.

The Herald and Weekly Times Newspaper Reading Room

The Newspaper Reading Room, located in one of the courtyards, keeps three months’ worth of physical copies of Victorian newspapers; holds microfilm of Victorian, interstate, and some international newspapers; and has modern microfilm and scanner readers (enabling patrons to save images of newspapers to USB memory stick) and facilities to help with research.

La Trobe Reading Room

Our visit to the library was highlighted by the landmark La Trobe Reading Room (formerly the Domed Reading Room). Designed by Norman G. Peebles of Bates Smart, it houses the Library’s Australiana collection, previously in the 1965 La Trobe Building annex.

The dome and its oculus

Its octagonal space, designed to hold over a million books and up to 600 readers, is 34.75 m. in both diameter and height, and its oculus is nearly 5 m. wide. The balconies overlooking the beautiful La Trobe Reading Room have now been transformed into exhibition areas.

Jandy and Grace at The Changing Face of Victoria exhibit

At the Changing Face of Victoria, in the Dome Galleries, Level 5, we explored the state’s history, discovering the people, places and events that have shaped Victoria.

Here, we encountered explorers, gain insights into life on the goldfields, and explore life in Victoria in the 20th and 21st centuries from Bells Beach to Black Saturday. Twice yearly, new items and stories are added to this exhibition, revealing different aspects of the Library’s historic collection.

Death Mask of Ned Kelly

Just one level below is the World of the Book, Australia’s largest exhibition dedicated to books that celebrates the unique place books have in our hearts and minds.  This one-of-a-kind exhibition showcased the history of book design, production and illustration, from the Middle Ages to today.

World of the Book

Here, we saw rare medieval manuscripts and sacred texts, magnificent natural history and botanical illustration, stunning modern artist books and fine press editions, as well as pioneering Australian classics, children’s books, graphic novels and comics.

Australian Gothic – Picnic at Hanging Rock

The Books and Ideas section exhibits medieval manuscripts and early printed books; sacred texts from around the world and from different religious traditions;, key works of astronomy, and a special display exploring the historical “restricted books” section of the State Library Victoria.

Religions of the Book

The Books and imagination section displays famous works from the literary canon, including the Second Folio of William Shakespeare’s plays (1632); modernist masterpieces by Virginia Woolf, countercultural classics from the New Journalism group of American writers; the writings of Australian author Gerald Murnane, and 1960s Western pulp fiction.

Pulp Fiction

The Exploring the World section features atlases, maps and travel journals from European voyages of discovery, from the 16th century onwards, with a special focus on mythical animals and costumes of the world; and richly illustrated works of natural history, including a special display called “The Mystery of the Missing Beetles,” a detective story uniting the collections of this library and Museums Victoria.

Recording Nature

The Art and Nature section displays botanical art and landscape design from the 16th century to today, with a special focus on the work of female Australian botanical artists.

The John Emmerson Collection

The Artist and Books section includes fine bindings from the John Emmerson Collection, Japanese woodblock printed books about textiles, glamorous Art Deco graphic design, contemporary Australian photo books, and archival material from the Wayzgoose Press Archive, an Australian fine press.

The Art of the Book in Japan

The South Rotunda (formerly Blue Rotunda), built in 1928, is an intimate gallery space that was formerly part of the McArthur Gallery (now the Newspapers and Family History Reading Rooms), linking to the Cowen Gallery.  It hosts small exhibitions and provides access to both the Heritage Collections Reading Room and the Newspapers and Family History Reading Rooms.

South Rotunda

The current exhibition during our visit was Peter Wille: Out Driving, a photographic survey of Melbourne’s modernist architecture from the 1950s and ’60s.  Wille amassed a collection of more than 6,000 color photographs of Melbourne’s architectural wonders throughout the 1950s and 1960s.

The exhibition includes works by groundbreaking architects Robin Boyd, Peter McIntyre, Kevin Borland, and John and Phillis Murphy. The exhibit runs from December 1, 2018 –  April 30, 2020.

State Library Victoria: 328 Swanton St., Melbourne, Victoria 3000, Australia. Tel: 8664 7000.  E-mail: inquiries@slv.vic.gov.au. Website: www.slv.vic.gov.au.  Open Mondays to Thursdays, 10 AM – 9 PM, and Fridays to Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM. Closed Good Friday, Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day.

Parliament Garden Reserve (Melbourne, Australia)

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Parliament Garden Reserve

This small triangular park, beside Parliament House and Spring and Albert Streets, is a pleasant respite at the Spring Street end of town, with views of the Royal Parliamentary House, the Old Synagogue, Eastern Hill and St Patrick’s Cathedral. This grassed reserve, originally part of the Parliament House grounds, is enclosed by a wrought iron fence and surrounded by majestic palm trees and lush foliage.  Here, it’s very easy to forget that you’re literally in the city center.

Check out “Royal Parliamentary House“

Garden entrance

One of the garden’s main features is a life-size memorial in bronze, created by Louis Laumen, to Pastor Sir Douglas Nicholls (the pastor of Australia’s first Aboriginal Church of Christ, he is the first aboriginal person to be knighted in 1972) and Lady Gladys Nicholls (Australia Aboriginal activist). Two of Australia’s most prominent indigenous leaders and traditional owners, it reminds visitors of their contribution to aboriginal welfare.

Pastor Sir Douglas and Lady Gladys Nicholls Memorial

Memorial plaque

The unusual Coles Fountain, a gift from the G.J. Coles Co., Ltd., a retailing company, was opened on November 27, 1981 by premier of Victoria L.H.S. Thomson.  A pleasant experience on a hot Melbourne day, you can walk inside the curtains of cascading water, cool off in the spray and not get soaked (not unless you want to anyway).

Bryan, Cheska and Kyle at The Coles Fountain

Made of stainless steel on bluestone paving, this series of cascading fountains resemble water balloons in full blast. In 2011, it was refurbished to use recycled water (in the past, it drew water from the city’s mains), an initiative of Melbourne’s Lord Mayor, Robert Doyle.

Parliament Garden Reserve: 489-531 Albert Street, East Melbourne Victoria 3002.

Melbourne Museum (Australia)

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Jandy at Melbourne Museum

The Melbourne Museum, a natural and cultural history museum axially aligned with the adjacent Italianate Royal Exhibition Building (and referencing it, along with the skyscrapers of Melbourne’s central business district, with its monumental scale and protruding vertical facets), provides a place for education, history, culture and society to engage with each other in a contemporary setting.

Check out “Royal Exhibition Building“

The museum complex

A project of the Government of Victoria (on behalf of Museums Victoria who administrates the venue), it is a rich response to Melbourne’s urban condition and is now an important part of Melbourne’s soft infrastructure.

The is located on the site of the former Melbourne Exhibition Speedway (which operated from November 5, 1928 until March 7, 1936).

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the museum:

  • It is the largest museum in the Southern Hemisphere
  • The museum is also one of Victoria’s top 10 destinations for travelers
  • The museum is consistently ranked as one of the most popular museums and tourist attractions in Australia, winning ‘Best Tourist Attraction’ at the Australian Tourism Awards in 2011
  • Since 2016, it housed the world’s largest IMAXTheatre screen.
  • Melbourne Museum was one of the venues of Festival Melbourne 2006, a citywide art festival held in conjunction of the 2006 Commonwealth Games, which was held in Melbourne.
  • During the years 2010–2011, it received 1,428,238 visitors and, for that, received the RACV Award for major tourist attraction.
  • During 2010–2011, Melbourne Museum’s Science and Life gallery was honored with the Large Permanent Exhibition Award due to its outstanding design and flow.

Jandy and Kyle

The Melbourne Museum, a Post-Modernist building, was designed by Denton Corker Marshall Architects, who specializes in city planning and urban design, mainly concerns their practice with responding to social desires. One of Denton Corker Marshall’s award-winning projects, the sticks and blades that make up the Melbourne Museum are hallmarks of Denton Corker Marshall’s architecture.

Its construction was managed by Baulderstone Hornibrook.   Officially opened on October 21, 2000 by the Hon. Steve Bracks, the Premier of Victoria at the time, it was completed in 2001.

The museum building, arranged in an individual layout (referencing Melbourne’s iconic Hoddle Grid, which allows the importance of each component of the buildings historical, cultural and social significance to be read in loosely equal hierarchy and individuality), features a grid-like order that embraces eccentric metal clad forms extruding out and creating an irregular sculptural composition with moments of abstract color throughout the building.

The building, dissected into different spaces (so an individual can navigate through and around the building in an orthogonal manner), was designed as both a single building and a network of individual buildings integrated into the landscape of the Carlton Gardens, a large public park.

Check out “Carlton Gardens“

The two very long and very high, sloping canopies (or blades), each acting to guide visitors from the street into the museum, are the most prominent element of the building, rising up from the centrally placed entrance opposite the north door of the Royal Exhibition Building. Another larger blade-like roof, on the northern side of the building, rises up from the center to the north, a landmark of similar scale to the central Florentine dome of the Royal Exhibition building.

Beside the main entrance is a prototype, constructed in 1947, of a CAC (Commonwealth Aircraft Corporation) delivery van.

A florist delivery van called the CAC Deliverette

A 3.86 m. high statue of Mercury, modeled by sculptor and painter C. Douglas Richardson, was inspired by Giambologna‘s bronze statue, made in Florence in 1580. Made of 20 pieces of beaten copper which were riveted together and cast by W.H. Rooke of Melbourne, circa 1899, it was donated to the museum by David Syme & Co. Ltd. On April 14, 1997.

Bronze statue of Mercury

Suspended over the entrance foyer is the full scale replica of John Duigan‘s 1910 biplane (the first Australia-built airplane to fly), built by Ronald Lloyd Lewis between 1984 and 1995, and donated to the museum in 1999.

Duigan Biplane Replica

Outside the main galleries are various displays relating to Victoria’s and Australia’s history, including CSIRAC (an early computer built in Australia) and a large, articulated skeleton of a pygmy blue whale at the Main Foyer.

Skeleton of Pygmy Blue Whale

At the Upper Level Balcony are some wind turbine models. A wind turbine model, commissioned by Pacific Hydro Limited, Melbourne, circa 2001, and was made in Denmark.

Wind Tubine Model

This model, based on contemporary wind turbines that were installed in Victoria during the early 2000s, is 5.5 m. high, has a rotor diameter of 4 m. and  is powered by a small electric motor.  Its white pole supports 3 white slimline blades.

Another windmill model, modeled on the Baker Run-in-Oil type (“Oilbath” is painted on the vane) steel windmill (first made in 1923), was made by William McCook, 1970-1990, and was constructed from metal with a rotating wheel and vane.

Federation Tapestry. L-R: “Making Do”(2001) and “Now Exploration & Settlement Underway” (2001)

The almost 41 m. long Federation Tapestry, created by 22 artist-weavers who spent an estimated 20,000 hours at their looms) from the internationally acclaimed Victorian Tapestry Workshop (renamed the Australian Tapestry Workshop in 2010), South Melbourne, was commissioned to mark the centenary of Australia’s Federation.

L-R: “Alone in the Bush”” (Reg Mombassa, 2001) and “Ngak Ngak in Limmen Bight Country” (2001)

The images, in 10 panels, range from Aboriginal dream time legends to a solitary shepherd in the bush with his sheep and dog, from the clamor and rejoicing that marked Federation in 1901 to the enigmatic ‘Sorry’ etched across the sky above the sails of the Sydney Opera House in the year 2000.

Federation Handbells

The beautifully crafted Federation Handbells, originally commissioned by Arts Victoria for the 2001 Centenary of Federation, are the world’s first true harmonic bells. Cast in silicon bronze, each set of bells have a unique design and pitch, covering two chromatic piano octaves (from E to E). Played by striking them with a mallet, the bells can be played in the style of a xylophone by a single musician controlling a set of bells, or each musician can play one bell. Ranging in size from 120 to 180 mm. high, they have an average weight of 1kg. each.

Dinosaur Walk

The 384 sq. m. Science and Life Gallery, at the west end, showcases six exhibitions – Bugs Alive, Marine Life, Dinosaur Walk, Wild: Amazing Animals in a Changing World, 600 Million Years and Dynamic Earth

Tarbosaurus bataar

The Dinosaur Walk, one of the highlights, houses a skeleton of a Diprotodon (a giant wombat-like creature) and skeletons of  10 dinosaurs such as the Tarbosaurus (Giant meat eater, Tyrannosauridae), Mamenchisaurus (Giant sauropod), Tsintaosaurus, Hadrosaurid, Pteranodon, Gallimimus and Hypsilophodon, 3 pterosaurs, one mammal-like reptile and Australian megafauna.

Wild – Amazing Animals in a Changing World

Wild: Amazing Animals in a Changing World, a permanent exhibit, presents the fragile state of Australian biodiversity, environment, and climate through the display of more than 750 animal specimens, in a spectacular vertical array, from around the world from a natural history collection, arranged in a striking theatrical style, interactive and can be viewed from many angles. It also examines how they are affected by climate change and human activity, and what we can do to help them.

Amazing Animals of Eurasia and North America

Here, we saw the wildlife (birds, reptiles, mammals and amphibians) of Victoria’s unique environments displayed by biogeographic regions. On the panoramic navigators, we looked up each animal and saw which animals are thriving and which are merely surviving and learn what you can do to help them. We also learned about the migration of shorebirds over thousands of kilometers as they move between their feeding and nesting grounds

Sam the Koala

On permanent display in Wild are a Malleefowl nest, the Murray Cod (the Murray river’s biggest resident) and the taxidermied mount of Sam the Koala, a a female koala from the forests of Mirboo North and symbol of the Black Saturday bushfires in 2009.

Marine Life- Exploring Our Seas

The Marine Life: Exploring our Seas Exhibit shows the wonderful life of marine Victoria and covers how Victoria’s marine creatures use camouflage, speed, poisons and spines to evade predators. Here, we investigate underwater ecosystems, inspect animal adaptations, explore marine habitats such as stunning sponge gardens and vibrant seagrass beds, and examine sharks jaws and a giant 10 m. long squid.

10 meter long squid

The 600 Million Years: Victoria Evolves Exhibit, opened in 2010, depicts the origins of Life in Victoria through fossils, models, animatronics (such as an animatronic Qantassaurus, a small dinosaur that lived in Victoria some 120 million years ago) and animations (shows how these animals moved, ate and battled to survive). Things that can be touched include the teeth of a giant shark, the skeleton of Archaeopteryx, and a sea floor that ended up high in the Grampian Mountains.

600 Million Years – Victoria Evolves

Starting with the explosion of life in the sea, you’ll see multicellular life, extraordinary body forms that have no living ancestors today, and early forms of ancient groups like crinoids, bryozoans and cephalopods. Next, we follow the evolution of life as it moved from sea to land and then diversified into the mammals, reptiles, birds and plants we know today.  We also learn about the geological processes that moved landmasses, built mountains and transformed rocks.

Deserts and Ice

Rocks and fossils show how the climate of Victoria has changed, from glacial to tropical and everything between, and the effects of the asteroid that wiped out the dinosaurs 65.5 million years ago.

Sandstone (Grampian Ranges – Silurian)

Fossils and specimens from the museum’s collections include irreplaceable skulls of giant megafauna, early whales and marsuipials long-gone from Australia’s mainland and some more prehistoric animals such as the Muttaburrasaurus, Tiktaalik and Anomalocaris.

Bugs Alive

The Bugs Alive! Exhibition, created in 2004, showcases the roles and life-cycles of the the invertebrates, a critically important animal group.  It features 50 living displays with an even greater number of species.

The Melbourne Gallery, at the east end, exhibits the mounted hide of Phar Lap, a beautiful chestnut gelding and race horse that won 37 races from 51 starts in 3 years, including the Melbourne Cup, during the depression era.

Phar Lap

The Melbourne Story explores the history of Melbourne and Victoria from the time of earliest contact between white settlers and local Indigenous people during early 19th century through to present day.

Little Lon, a predominantly working class area, was characterised by a series of laneways, with small properties packed together creating crowded and unsanitary conditions.

The museum is also custodian of artifacts excavated from ‘Little Lon’ is an inner-city block in Melbourne bordered by Lonsdale, Exhibition, Little Lonsdale and Spring Streets. The city’s “Red Light District,” Little Lon was also home to the city’s poorest residents and recently arrived immigrants from Ireland, Italy, China and Syria.

Model of the SS Orcades, an ocean liner serving primarily the UK – Australia – New Zealand route

The Mind and Body Gallery, a gallery regarding the human body, is the world’s first exhibition about the mind. The “Mind: Enter the Labyrinth,” a permanent exhibition, explores how the mind works and offers ways to understand such illnesses as bipolar disorder and depression.

The Ames room is a neat illusion because it can be instantiated in real space, as has been done in numerous science museums

“Empathy booths” show videos of actors performing real-life stories prepared by SANE, a mental-health advocacy group. Among its 300 exhibits are artworks, on loan from the Cunningham Dax psychiatric art collection, which include paintings by a 16-year-old girl, completed just before she committed suicide.

Mind and Body Gallery

The Evolution Gallery, at the upper level, features the exhibition “Darwin to DNA” which shows the roles of Charles Darwin and Alfred Russel Wallace in developing the theory of evolution. Displayed in historical showcases are actual animal specimens, that they collected, which helped them interpret evolutionary processes and patterns. The photos and specimens also illustrate conditions necessary for evolution, making youl consider how evolution acts upon genetic mutations.

Cunningham Dax psychiatric art collection

DNA evidence, which challenges previous notions of the uniqueness of humans and the concept of race and helps us examine the relationships between species, is also highlighted by this exhibition.

Forest Gallery

The Forest Gallery, the centerpiece of the museum building, is a living temperate Victorian forest environment, complete with hundreds of living plants and live animals such as birds, reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates and other fauna.

This massive living and breathing exhibition, offering a window into the tall forests of eastern Victoria, is home to the ongoing Forest Secrets exhibition which examines the agents of change within the forests.

Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre

The Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre, planned in collaboration with many Aboriginal people, including the traditional owners of Melbourne (the Boonwurrung and the Woi wurrung), includes galleries with exhibitions by and about the Koorie people and other Aboriginal peoples of Victoria.

Bunjilaka Welcome Rug

At the foyer/reception area is the amazing Bunjilaka Welcome Rug designed by artist Vicki Couzens to provide a focus and gathering point for welcoming visitors to Bunjilaka. The design symbolizes the pathway that people take to gather for a ceremony, dance or song.

Wurreka (Judy Watson)

Spanning the north wall of Birrarung Gallery and surrounding the entry to First Peoples is Wurreka, a zinc wall of 74 etched panels, each reflecting imagery from Aboriginal cultural heritage and landscapes of Victoria, designed by Waanyi artist Judy Watson from Queensland.

Te Pasifika Gallery

From the First Peoples gallery is the light filled Te Pasifika Gallery, a bright soaring space. This exhibition, which highlights the history and finely carved water crafts of Pacific island nations including Fiji, the Cook Islands, Niue, the Solomon Islands and Aotearoa (New Zealand), was developed in collaboration with the Pacific Island Advisory Group and community members in 1997 and was opened in 2001.

Here, we gaze up at the life-size crab claw sails, containing motifs of Melanesia in the north east, Micronesia in the North and Polynesia in the South East, created by the Victorian Pacific Island Council and community, and walk underneath exquisite canoes from Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands, Tuvalu, Niue and the Marquesas Islands.

Te Pasifika Gallery

The Pauline Gandel Children’s Gallery, housings exhibitions aimed at 3 to 8 year olds, combines hands-on exploration and discovery, open-ended play-based learning, extraordinary immersive environments and unique museum collection objects.

Te Pasifika Gallery

The Touring Hall, where international touring exhibitions are displayed, has, in the past, exhibited “A Day In Pompeii” (June 26 to October 25, 2009, Melbourne Museum’s most popular temporary exhibition), “Hatching the Past: Dinosaur Eggs and Babies’ (May 30, 2008 to August 24, 2008), “The Great Wall of China: Dynasties, Dragons and Warriors” (March 23, 2007 to July 22, 2007), “Spirit of the Games: The Opening Ceremony Revealed” (March 18 to July 23, 2006) and “Dinosaurs from China” (2005).

Museum Market Cafe

In addition to its galleries, the museum also features the free Discovery Centre, a cafe (Museum Market Cafe), a souvenir shop (Museum Shop) and an IMAX Theatre screen showing movies and documentary films in large-screen 3-D format.

Museum Shop

Melbourne Museum: 11 Nicholson St., Carlton Gardens, 3053 Melbourne, Australia. Open daily, 10 AM – 5 PM (closed Good Friday and Christmas Day).

 

Fushan Temple (Jiufen, Taipei, Taiwan)

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Fushan Temple

While walking up the main road during my joint exploration of Jiufen with Joyce Ventura, we reached the top of the hill  where the road split. I  decided to try the right (the left road, I learned later, goes to Jinguashi) and, after a nearly 1 km. hike, we espied the gaudy Fushan Temple.

The temple’s gray and deep, dark green facade

The 200-year-old Fushan Temple in Jiufen is one of several temples (the others are at Shuinandong and Jinguashi) that worship Tudigong (The God of Neighborhood or the Earth God, one of the least important gods in the Taoist religion). During the Japanese Colonial Era, Jiufen’s Fushan Temple was the biggest Tudigong Temple in Taiwan.

Check out “Jiufen Old Street“

The temple’s brightly colored  interior

At the time of the gold rush, residents and mine workers prayed in this temple for safety and good fortune as they go in search of gold. Even today, locals believe that the gods here still guard them with things other than gold.

The main altar

An interesting blend of Japanese, Chinese and European decorative motifs, this “temple within a temple” initially just worshiped Tudigong but, in 1935, Weng, Shan-Ying (the director of the Jiufen department of Taiyang Mining Company) initiated the renovation of this temple, building 2 halls beside the temple so that people can also worship Avalokiteshvara and the Goddess of Child-giving.

An intricately carved column

At the exterior are two old stone lamps while the interior sports a beautiful arched post-and-beam structure (made without nails and rarely seen in Taiwan), intricately carved stone pillars, and panels, including one over the main altar with several nude Western-style angels. Its stone sculptures were made with local sandstone.

An equally intricately carved panel

At the temple atrium is a wishing well. The temple is surrounded by a Japanese style garden.Visitors and photographers can enjoy the cherry blossoms in March and April.

Fushan Temple: 1 Lunding Road (on the east side of 102 County Road and Lunding Road intersection), Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224. Open daily, 6 AM – 6 PM.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen). 

How to Get There:  There is a bus station here and bus service between RuiFang and Fushan Temple.

Balesin Island Club (Polillo, Quezon)

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Balesin Island seen from the air. In the foreground is Toscana Village

I’ve already heard about Balesin Island, off the eastern coast of Luzon, since way back in high school from my classmate Anthony Tordesillas whose father, the late Board of Investment head Edgardo Tordesillas, owned the island.  A chance encounter with Anthony after high school elicited an invitation to visit the island with him but, for reasons I can’t recall, wasn’t able to join him.  After Anthony’s passing in 2012, I thought the opportunity to visit this now members-only, private leisure getaway, now called Balesin Island Club, has finally passed me by.

Map of the island

That is, until lately when my wife Grace and her boss Engr. Loy Ganzon (Chairman of the Board of E. Ganzon, Inc.) were invited to a wedding there as godparents.  Jandy, Cheska, Bryan, Kyle and I gladly joined them.

One of the island’s banyan (balete) trees

The island’s name is a combination of two Filipino words – balete (local name for a banyan tree) and asin (local word for “salt”). Now Alphaland Corporation’s flagship project, Balesin Island Club is a 500-hectare, 5 km. long tropical island paradise with 7.3 kms. of pristine white-sand beaches. Around 10% of the island has been developed to create this award-winning luxury resort.

One of the island’s white sand beaches

The island was titled as a single property in 1926 (although the name of the original owner is unknown).  Immediately before and after World War II, the island was owned by the Pelejo and Jugueta families. In 1958, these families sold the island to the San Pablo Oil Company (now making Minola Cooking Oil) owned by 63 year old German expatriate and naturalized Filipino citizen Werner P. Schetelig.  After Schetelig died in 1962, Felipe “Baby” Ysmael (of Ysmael Steel) then bought the island from San Pablo Oil Company.

In 1967, Edgardo Tordesillas, business executive and amateur pilot, acquired the island from Felipe and set about building tourism facilities on the island, first building cottages (to house his family and guests) and, later, a nipa-roofed clubhouse, swimming pool, tennis courts and a 9-hole golf course. He also planted thousands of trees as well as many kinds of ornamental plants.  In 2011, Roberto V. Ongpin, Chairman of Alphaland Corporation (founded in 2007) acquired the island from the Tordedeillas family (Edgardo died in 2005) and developed Balesin Island Club.

Two offshore islands

Balesin, master-planned by EcoPlan of Miami, Florida, USA to optimize ecological sustainability, was meticulously designed to be in perfect harmony with its natural surroundings.  With the enhancement of everything in its environment uppermost in their mind without scrimping on luxurious, top-notch facilities, Alphaland adapted the “Three Pillar Innovation” – People, Planet and Profit.

Water reservoir

They reduced the amount of waste and ensured sustainable development via the island-wide rain water harvesting (runoff from the 1.5-km. airport runway provides over 100 million liters of water annually), 80% water recycling (for landscaping during the summer), a reverse osmosis plant, on-site eco-friendly transportation, organic farming, and alternative sources of energy.

Organic vegetable farm

The island’s coral reefs were also managed for diving and sustainable fishing. During the 14th United Nations World Tourism Organization Awards, the resort nabbed second-place for Innovation and Excellence in Tourism — the first in the history of the Philippines.

Alphaland Aviation Lounge

Our early morning journey to Balesin began at their cool, quiet and comfortable private terminal lounge at Alphaland Aviation Lounge in Manila, arriving there by 5 AM.

Our 68-seater ATR 72-100 at the hangar

After checking in our luggage and relaxing at the lounge while waiting for our flight, we boarded our 68-seater ATR 72-100 and were soon on our way.

On board and on our way….  L-R: Jandy, Engr. Loy Ganzon (Chairman of the Board of E. Ganzon, Inc.), Ms. Mamel Yap (E.G.I.), Bryan and Kyle

Alphaland operates two of these jets plus one 19-seater British Aerospace Jetstream 32 and two 9-seater Cessna 208B Grand Caravans) and took off for the island just before 8 AM.

Landfall at E.L. Tordesillas Airport

We arrived at the island’s aptly named E.L. Tordesillas Airport by 8:20 AM.  At the Welcome Center, we were briefed by the staff on the island’s facilities and, after picking up our luggage, were brought to our respective villas via airconditioned vans.  We stayed 2 nights at Phuket Village and another night at Costa del Sol. After checking in, we had a late breakfast at Balesin Sala in Balesin Village.

Check out “Resort Review: Balesin Island Club – Phuket Village” and “Resort Review: Balesin Island Club – Costa del Sol”

Welcome Center

The beauty of the island was a world completely unto itself, with seven theme villages patterned and inspired from the most alluring, world-class luxury beach destinations where everything, from the architecture, interior design, landscaping and food, is authentically recreated – Balinese for Bali Village, Greek for Mykonos Village, French (Riviera) for St. Tropez Village, Spanish for Costa del Sol, Filipino at Balesin Village, Italian (Tuscany) at Toscana Village and Thai for Phuket Village.

Check out “Balesin Island Club – Bali Village,” “Balesin Island Club – Costa del Sol,” “Balesin Island Club – Mykonos Village,” “Balesin Island Club – St. Tropez Village,” “Balesin Island Club – Balesin Village” and “Balesin Island Club – Toscana Village”

The Clubhouse

The Clubhouse has a reception area, a cigar lounge where you can light up a fine cigar (Tabacalera Cigar Divan),  gaming room (billiards, table tennis, a Wii console), a 600 sq.m. function area, a fully equipped conference room (for large gatherings and private meetings), seven 2-bedroom unit Clubhouse Suites, KTV rooms (Mike’s and Rannie’s), souvenir shop, music lounge, view deck, veranda, library, mahjong and poker room, internet gaming/business center, salon and barber shop, children’s indoor playroom, screening room, locker rooms, boutique and medical clinic.

The Clubhouse Lounge

It also has a number of bars (Lobby Bar, Coral Bar) and restaurants – Sakura Japanese Restaurant  (for sushi and teppanyaki dishes), the Dining Room, Balesin Dining Room and Han Gang Restaurant plus private dining rooms (Michelle’s and Anna’s).

Reception Area at Clubhouse

Outside are exquisitely designed swimming pools  (adult and kiddie) and 3 whirlpools, bars and private beach cabanas.    The Aquatic Sports Center offers waterskiing, kayaking, windsurfing, snorkeling, wakeboarding, scuba diving, stand-up paddle boarding, boat rentals, deep sea fishing, Hobie Cat sailing, Frisbees, volleyball and paraw sailing.

The clubhouse’s swimming pool

Docked offshore for sunset cruises is Balesin’s new super yacht, the M/Y Obsessions, a sleek, 130-foot, aluminum-hull  vessel built by Heesen Yachts in the Netherlands.  Its decadent interiors were designed by Ann Van Der Kamp and Diaship, using sumptuous materials from Gianni Versace’s luxury Italian label.

The M/Y Obsessions

On our second day, after breakfast Jandy and I made a tour around the island. Aside from the airconditioned vans, jeepneys and buses, the resort also uses electric golf carts to go around the island to reduce its carbon footprints.

One of the jeepneys that transports guest around the island

We visited the Ifugao Village where an entire community of Ifugao woodcarvers lived.  The furniture on the island, both modern and traditional, was made by them and they also produce art pieces, sculpture as well as souvenir items for sale to visitors.

Jandy in front of the Ifugao Camp

We also visited the Sports Center with its fully-equipped gym, badminton courts, basketball court, tennis courts, martial arts studio, airsoft target shooting range, soccer field, running track, rock climbing wall, table tennis and refreshment bars.

Sports Center

A fenced part of the jungle houses tactical formations for paintball and war games, a stable for Segways, and Knockerballs. There’s also horse riding stables, an archery range, golf driving range and putting green.

Soccer Field

The island is also home to the Aegle Wellness Center, a state-of-the-art integrative health & wellness center nominated as Medi-Spa of the Year in the 2017 Asia Spa Awards.  It is the only place in the Philippines, and among the few in Asia, that offers thalassotherapy, a medical treatment for weight loss and detoxification that makes use of the components of seawater.

Pony Paddock

On our third day, scheduled afternoon tour, this time via an airconditioned bus, took us around the island, visiting each of the aforementioned 7 themed villages.

The Greek-themed Mykonos Village

Toscana Village

The French Riviera-inspired St. Tropez

Balesin Village

We also visited the Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farm where seafood and organic produce, for the restaurants, are cultivated at specially made fish pens and greenhouses, respectively.

Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farms

Bryan, Kyle and Cheska at the Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farms

At the Aviary (a joint undertaking of Balesin Island Club and the Tobiano family), we had intimate encounters with some exotic birds.

The Aviary

These include blue and gold macaw (Ara ararauna), African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus), Victoria crown pigeon (Goura victoria), scarlet macao (Ara macao), Indian blue peacock (Pavo cristatus), among others.

The author with a pigeon

It is also home to a pair of African spurred tortoises (Centrochelys sulcata) and rabbits.

The open-air chapel

The open-aired Chapel across the latter, with amphitheater-like seating and wooden altar, was where the wedding took place.  We also heard mass here.

The rustic chapel interior

The wedding reception was held at The Salon, the elegant function hall which accommodates up to 350 guests for sit-down banquets, at the majestic Balesin Royal Villa, facing Lamon Bay and its gorgeous sunset.  It also has an a bar facility, a 10-person elevator for easy access to the upper and lower floors from

Balesin Royal Villa

The Salon, state-of-the-art karaoke room as well as billiard and foosball tables.  The ten 120 sq.m. Royal suites located on the ground floor, each have a terrace providing direct access to the 2 swimming pools (with jet bubblers and 4 sunning decks) and private, white-sand beach.

Entrance to Balesin Royal Villas

The four 317 sq.m. Maharlika suites, on the upper level, have their own living area, terrace, and outdoor jacuzzi. All Balesin Royal Villa suites have magnificent views of the sea, and accommodate up to 4 people each.

Fish Fun

As we just stayed on the island for three days, we didn’t get to experience all the different cuisine the island had to offer but we did get to try breakfast at Balesin Sala (Balesin Village) and the Main Clubhouse (the centerpiece of the resort together with the state-of-the-art wellness facility), Spanish cuisine for lunch at Casa Grande (Costa del Sol) and, for dinner, Thai cuisine at Sawadee (Phuket Village) and Japanese cuisine at Sakura (Main Clubhouse).

Balesin Sports Bar

Bryan playing billiards at the Sports Bar

Sakura, the club’s most popular restaurant, is located inside the main clubhouse.  Led by chef Edo-san, it houses a teppanyaki counter and sushi bar, and serves everything from soba to tempura to prime steak.  Favorites include the much sought-after popped rice starter with its poetic presentation, the Edo-san maki of eel, cream cheese, avocado, tobiko and topped with baked crab, the spider roll, sea bass with miso, beef usuyaki, and the beef and seafood teppanyaki with fried rice.

Balesin Island Club: Brgy. Balesin, Polillo 4339, Quezon.

Metro Manila Corporate Office: Alphaland Corporation, Alphaland Makati Place, 7232 Ayala Ave. Extn., 1209 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: +63.2.5337.2031 and +63.2.5337.2055 loc 271 to 274 (Reservations). Fax: +63.2.5338.1231,  E-mail: info@alphaland.com.ph. Website: www.balesin.com.

Caleruega Retreat Center (Nasugbu, Batangas)

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Dominicum (Caleruega Retreat Center)

After a filling lunch at Josephine’s Restaurant in Tagaytay City, Mark, Jandy, Vicky, Marc, Bryan and I opted to go on a sightseeing trip.  Back on Mark’s Starex van, we traveled a further 15.7 kms. (25 mins.) to the town of Nasugbu, in the adjoining province of Batangas, where we were to visit the much hyped up retreat center and wedding venue called Caleruega. Designed by Arch. Yolanda D. Reyes (Dean of UST’s College of Architecture) and built in 1995, Caleruega was set up as a venue for retreats and seminars of the Dominican institutions.

Mark (center) and Vicky (right) exploring the grounds

 

The much-publicized wedding of Christopher de Leon and Sandy Andolong gave Caleruega its early exposure and, today, it is a lovely setting for an out of town wedding for brides and grooms.  Even movies and television ads producers have taken notice.

United Architects of the Philippines (UAP) 1996 Design Award in Architecture

From the highway, we turned into of a long, rough, bumpy and isolated road, at the end of which is the sprawling, 8-hectare property owned by the Dominican Fathers. We parked our van just outside.  Past brick-paved rotunda and fountain is the Dominicum (which we mistook to be a chapel), the receiving hall for visitors and those having their retreats at the place.

Perched atop an elevation with a 21 steps leading up to it, its two level Moorish and Spanish-style facade has a segmental arched main entrance flanked by square pilasters and niches with statues of Thomas Aquinas and Catherine of Sienna, both doctors of the church, at the ground level.

Stairway leading up to the Dominicum

The main entrance is topped, at the second level, by a semicircular arched window with the stained glass image of St. Dominic, founder of the Dominican order.  This window is flanked by smaller semicircular arched windows with stained glass images of his father’s coat-of-arms on the left and his mother’s coat-of-arms on the right.

Stained glass window depicting St. Dominic

The four square pilasters (two reaching up to the pediment) are topped by pineapple (probably hinting at its proximity to Tagaytay)-shaped finials.  The undulating pediment has a bell-gable (espadana) at the center.

Grand stairway

Inside is a grand, elegantly curving staircase (unfortunately, off limits to visitors), a gift house (where one can buy souvenir shirts, trinkets and religious items) on the left, a mess hall on the right and a corridor that leads to the gardens.

Mess hall

From the Dominicum, pathways, following the natural curves and slope of the hill, lead us into a garden bursting with color and life. It was easy to fall in love with the serenity and beauty of this gorgeous retreat sanctuary with its abundant and colorful varieties of flowers, lush plants and trees and walking paths.

In the comforting company of nature, one can sit on solitary park benches, found in niches, and gaze at the 180-degree view of cobalt-blue skies,  the rolling, verdant hills and mountains and the plains. Caleruega’s tag line, “Closer to Nature, Closer to God,” is a fitting description of this nourishing sanctuary.

Lining the pathway are functional dormitories, cottages and overnight guests plus an interesting gazekubo, a conference hall that mixes the elements of a gazebo and a bahay kubo, with adobe stone walls roof made with once brown pawid (now green with small plant growth).

Gazekubo

The many signs and symbols of the Dominicans were abundantly integrated into the architecture.  The motif of the Dominican star (Joanna of Aza, St. Dominic’s mother, saw a star on her son’s forehead, a sign that he would eventually spread light to the world), as well as the sun, can be consistently seen in the refreshing fountain on the driveway, capiz windows, grilles and even inside cottages in the retreat center.

There were also viewing decks where one can witness the stunning show and the magical moment of the sun setting between the two rugged peaks of Batulao (incidentally, the name Batulao is derived from the words bato, meaning “stone,” and “ilaw or “light”), creating the perfect mood for love. St. Dominic’s Point, another beautiful vantage point, has a statue of St. Dominic, his feet lined with a star formation of fuchsia plants.  Rosary Lane, framed by the rolling hills of Mt. Batulao, has a statue of the Mother and Child sitting in prayer, each clutching a rosary.

At the peak was the famed, stunning and quaint Transfiguration Chapel with its Moorish-style facade done in red brick and painted concrete. When we arrived, a wedding was ongoing inside the chapel.  Patterned after the original Caleruega Chapel in Spain, it can fit only 150 people.  Its door has a brass sculpture of seven grapevines (symbolizing the Seven Sacraments).

Transfiguration Chapel

The chapel’s interior, finished with varnished wood and painted concrete, has a lectern with Biblical images of the mustard seed while the tabernacle has a burning bush design.  The altar, made from a carved tree trunk, signifies the Stem of Jesse in the Book of Isaiah. The birds, at the communion table, symbolize God’s providence.

The chapel interior with its centerpiece stained glass window featuring the Transfiguration – Moses on the left, Jesus at center and the prophet Elijah at the right

The stained glass windows of the chapel, giving a very soft and warm glow to the interior (an atmosphere conducive for prayers and reflections), were impressive. On the facade is the seal of the Dominican Province of the Philippines. Inside is the centerpiece of the church floor to ceiling stained glass of the figures of Transfiguration (Jesus, Moses and Elijah).

The author at the Transfiguration Chapel

In front of the chapel is “Thy Will Be Done,” a metal sculpture with arms outstretched done by Baguio City artist Benhur Villanueva. Surrounding the chapel are carefully selected plants and trees (the planted pine trees even mimic the Mediterranean setting where St. Dominic was born in 1170 in Caleruega in Old Castile).

Thy Will Be Done (Benhur Villanueva)

Caleruega is a lovely, quiet and soothing addition to the 39 Catholic houses (retreat houses, formation houses, seminaries and contemplative groups) tucked along Tagaytay Ridge as well as over a dozen Christian lay communities and prayer houses.

Caleruega Retreat Center: Bgry. Kaylaway, Batulao, Nasugbu, Batangas.  Mobile number: (0921) 270-9890 and (0921) 830-4226.  E-mail: caleruega_philippines@yahoo.com. Open daily, 8 AM – 12 noon and 1 – 5 PM. A mass is held every Sunday at 11 AM.

How to Get There:
Coming from Tagaytay City, board a Nasugbu bound bus and ask the driver to drop you off at Evercrest where there’s a tricycle station.  Here, you can hire a tricycle for a two-way trip to Caleruega.