The Mansion (Baguio City, Benguet)

Posted on 22 February, 2015 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

At the end of the Pool of Pines was The Mansion (formerly called the Mansion House), the Philippine president’s palatial official summer residence and, easily, one of the most visited and photographed landmarks of Baguio City. Consisting of an elegantly designed, Spanish Colonial Revival-style main building and a guest house, it was designed by French-educated, New York based American architect William E. Parsons and started in 1907 to be the official summer residence of U.S. Governor-Generals.

The Mansion

The site selected was Outlook Point at the edge of the Pacdal Plateau. Its name is derived from the New England summer ancestral home U.S. Governor-General William Cameron Forbes in the family-owned Naushon Island near the Massachusetts coast, under whose administration the original Mansion House was built. On March 21, 1908, at the onset of summer, the household of Governor-General James Francis Smith moved into the Mansion House. From March 19 to April 28, 1910, the meeting of the Second Philippine Legislature was held at the Mansion House.

With the inauguration of the Philippine Commonwealth in 1935, the Mansion House, along with Malacañan Palace, was turned over to the Philippine president. The High Commissioner to the Philippines Paul V. McNutt, the successor to the Governor-General as the highest American official in the Philippines and representative of the United States Government, then built The American Residence, completed in 1940 at Camp John Hay.

Almira and Jandy along C.P. Romulo Drive

During the Second World War, the Mansion House was badly damaged due to constant bombing and strafing but, in 1947, it was rebuilt at a cost of PhP80,000 and improved, with additional guest rooms and conference rooms constructed. Since then, it has served as the holiday home and working office for each President of the Philippines during his or her visits to Baguio City.

The tall and ornate iron gates of The Mansion

The Mansion House was also used as the venue of important events. In 1947, it served as the seat of the second session of of the United Nations Economic Commission for Asia and the Far East (ECAFE). The next year, it was the site of the second session of the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and, in 1950, the first meeting of the Southeast Asian Union (SEAU), more commonly known as the Baguio Conference of 1950, was conceived and convened by President Elpidio Quirino.

Albert, Melissa, Almira and Jandy posing in front of the gate

Parts of the Mansion House are open to tourists. As always, there were lots of tourists taking turns posing in front of its tall and ornate, main gate, still one of the most photographed sections of the property. Made of ornate ironwork, the front gate was earlier falsely reported as a replica of one of the main gates at Buckingham Palace in London. A contingent of Philippine Marines maintains the security of this large compound and we saw some of them manning the guardhouse at the vicinity of the entry gate.

The plaque, in English, installed by the National Historical Institute

Mounted on the gate posts are 2 historical markers unveiled by President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and the National Historical Institute (now the National Historical Commission of the Philippines) on December 30, 2008 (the centenary of the Mansion House), one in English and the other containing the text translated in Filipino, both detailing the structure’s history. On January 16, 2009, the board of the National Historical Institute, through Resolution No. 1, s. 2009, declared the Mansion House as a National Historical Landmark.

The NHI plaque, this time in Tagalog

Some official government vehicles entered the compound by passing through a great circular driveway. Within the compound and adjacent to the Mansion is a two-story building which serves as the official residence of the Philippine President. Nearby is a small amphitheater. As the President was not in residence, Jandy, Almira, Albert, Melissa and I, as well as other tourists, were allowed to enter a little past the gates, posing in front of its beautiful gardens and well-manicured lawn, also a favorite site for sightseeing and picture taking.

The author and Jandy

Tourists can also visit the Mansion House’s museum, a branch museum of the Malacañang Museum (now the Presidential Museum and Library) established on May 18, 2010 by virtue of Executive Order No. 880. The museum houses presidential memorabilia and works of art collected over its years by former presidents.

The beautiful gardens and well-manicured lawn of The Mansion

The Mansion: C.P. Romulo Drive (formerly a part of Leonard Wood Rd.), 2600 Baguio City, Benguet.

Wright Park (Baguio City, Benguet)

Posted on 22 February, 2015 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

After breakfast at EGI Albergo de Ferroca Hotel and Sunday mass at nearby St. Joseph Church, I decided to tour my guests Melissa Tinonas and her children Almira and Albert, all first timers in Baguio, around the city. As our hotel was right across the Wright Park Riding Circle, it was only fitting that this would be the first place we visit and explore.

Wright Park Riding Circle

The Wright Park Riding Circle is located within the flat and wide triangle below Wright Park. Here, 200 horses are available for hire. Wright Park, one of the many scenic parks in Baguio City, is located at the eastern part of the city and fronts the main gate of The Mansion.

4 year old Jandy at Wright Park, July 15, 1900. The next day, a destructive earthquake struck the city.

4 year old Jandy at Wright Park, July 15, 1990. The next day, a destructive earthquake struck the city.

Named after American Gov.-Gen. Luke E. Wright (1906-1909), the park’s horseback riding area is often referred to, by children, as “Ride Park” because of the horses. After all, children have no idea who Luke E. Wright is. Although there are now other riding areas in the City of Pines, the Wright Park Riding Circle is still the most popular venue for horseback riding for visitors and locals alike.

Dressing up in Igorot attire

It being a long and sunny Chinese New Year weekend, the place was crowded with residents and tourists. I am no stranger to the park, having visited it during Christmas vacations with my parents and siblings and, when I got married, with my family. In the 1970s, the hourly rates for horse rides back then was just Php5. Four decades later, it was now PhP300 (PhP200 for half an hour) an hour and another PhP300 for a guide to tour you around.

Princess for a day

However, before the horseback riding, Melissa, Almira, Albert and my son Jandy decided to have their photos taken while dress up in full Cordillera regalia (PhP20 per pax) – vests and headdresses for the gents and ladies, shield and spear for the men (without the g-string or bahag) and tapis for the ladies. We also tried our first taste of strawberry flavored taho.

Trying out strawberry-flavored taho

Then, it was off to the horse riding field. The riding field has an inner circle (best for first-timers) for walking horses and an outer circle for the running horses for more experienced riders who want to make the horse trot or canter. Only the riders and the pony boys (usually the horse owner himself, or his assistant) are allowed within the Riding Circle. So the Riding Circle is NOT a park as only horses, pony boys and riders are allowed in the ring. All experienced handlers, pony boys lead the horse, walk alongside it or ride behind the child for the latter’s protection and enjoyment of a faster ride. Parents and nannies (yayas) can only observe their kids from viewing decks and benches, documenting their kid’s ride with photos, using their camera’s zoom lens, and videos.

A horse of Wright Park

There were lots of horses to choose from. There were horses of different sizes and colors. Some horses wore their natural colors (brown, black, and white or mixed) while others wore artificial colors (pink, blue, yellow, etc). Most of the time, children choose the ones which are in pink or blue. I was surprised to see white ponies with a shock of pink hair (Melissa and Jandy chose to ride on this kind) or, sometimes, a brown one with a bright orange mane.

Jandy riding a pink-maned horse

Pony Boys have noticed, in recent years, that children prefer white horses, thinking they’re nicer” or “gentler” (mas mabait) than the brown ones. To make the white ones even more attractive to customers, the pony boys have taken to dying the horse’s mane (but hardly ever their tails to match the manes), putting a little pink paper flower on their hair, giving them “bangs by cutting off a piece of the tail and attaching the extra hair to the bridle.

The stone stairway leading up to the Pool of Pines

After the pony ride, we walked towards and climbed a wide stone stairway leading to the pine-forest preserve of Wright Park itself. On the way up, we had wonderful views of the place, the horses and the people riding on them. At its end is a pergola-like stone structure or gazebo.

The concrete, pergola-like gazebo at the top

Igorots, dressed in their native attire and regalia, can be found here, willing to pose for a photograph … of course, for a fee of PhP10. At stalls on the far side of the stairs, you can buy souvenirs such as woven products, key chains, T-shirts, peanut brittle, strawberry jams and a lot more. Beautiful and colorful plants are also displayed and sold here in affordable prices.

The Pool of Pines

The park’s main feature is the beautiful and much photographed Pool of Pines, a 100-m. (328-ft.) long and narrow 5-m. (16.4-ft.) wide, shallow and elongated rectangular reflecting pool filled with lotus. Postcard-type photographs are usually taken here.

Melissa buying strawberries from a vendor

On the way to the pool, we noticed on the left, a photo booth with the sign “Forevermore” and “La Presa.” The fictional La Presa, in reality Sitio Pungayan of Tuba town, some 40 mins. away from Baguio City, is the location where most of the scenes from the popular ABS-CBN hit teleserye “Forevermore” (starring Enrique Gil and Liza Soberano) were shot. There you have it.

The La Presa photo booth area

It just so happened that Wright Park, together with Burnham Park and The Manor (which, in the series, is a hotel called Hotel Grande owned by the family of Gil’s character) were also featured in the series.

Frolicking among the tall pine trees

Here, fans get to dress up in native attire and pose for PhP5.At the Pool of Pines, we walked along a walkway lined, on both sides, with tall pine trees, weeping willow trees and decorative street lights. Native handicrafts are also sold at the Mansion end of the park by a few Igorot peddlers.

Wright Park: Leonard Wood Rd, Baguio, Benguet.

When going horseback riding, choose a horse that is proportionate in size to your child. It would be better if you asked around first or observed other riders before choosing one. For those who intend to take a pony farther out along South Drive, the Mines View Park area or to Outlook Drive, it is advisable to first agree on the hourly cost to be charged.

Ambuklao Dam (Bokod, Benguet)

Posted on 20 February, 2015 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

After lunch and freshening up at Ambangeg Country Road Restaurant in Bokod, we continued on our way back, along winding zigzag roads, to Baguio City. About 36 kms. (22 mi., an hour’s drive) northeast of the city, we made a short stopover at Ambuklao Dam, in Brgy. Ambuklao.

Ambuklao Dam

One of Southeast Asia’s earth and rock-filled dams, is is one of the oldest power plants in the country and was among the first large hydroelectric power plants constructed in the Philippines. It impounds the waters of the upper portion of the turbulent Agno River (the longest waterway in Northern Luzon) which originates from Mt. Data, and its tributary, the Bokod River.

View of the dam from the lake

The adjunct irrigation system on the delta of the Agno River, it was the first in the Philippines to be served from a reservoir dam and it dams the river with 6,504,000 cu. m. of rocks, gravel and cement together with 1,000,000 cu. m. of clay earth at its core. Its picturesque, manmade lake has a small picnic area along the shore (no restaurants though) and boats can sometimes be hired for pleasure rowing. It is also teems with freshwater fish such as crimson snapper (maya-maya), tilapia and silver carp.

Ambuklao View Deck

The dam, once ranked among the world’s tallest dams, is 131 m. high, 426 m. long at the crest and has a base width of 565 m.. The elevation of its crest is 758 m. and the roadway that runs through the top of the dam has an elevation of 756 m.. It was once the highest power dam in Asia and the second highest of its kind in the world.

As early as the late 1940s, the development of the Agno River, for purposes of hydroelectric power generation, flood control and irrigation, had been conceived and preliminary investigations for development at Ambuklao and Binga Dam sites were undertaken, under the direction of Pres. Manuel A. Roxas, (in cooperation with Westinghouse International) as early as January 1948.

The dam’s spillway

Started in July 1950, it took 6 years and 5 months, at a cost of PhP132 million, to complete and the operation of this hydroelectric facility finally started on December 23, 1956. Its civil works contractor was the Guy F. Atkinson Company and the engineering consultant was Harza Engineering Company of Chicago. To build this engineering feat, a diversion channel was first cut to allow the Agno River to flow naturally away from ongoing work. Then the gorge was narrowed through a series of blasts inside a mountain, thus trapping the water and forming a manmade lake. Its water turbines, loaded on huge flatbed trucks (operating in tandem), was brought up the coast via the Naguilian Rd. and brought down via the specifically-built Ambuklao Rd. from Pacdal (Baguio City).

The 8 Tainter radial gates

The dam has 8 Tainter radial gates at the dam’s spillway. Each spillway measures 12.5 m. by 12.5 m. and is 127 m. in length. The gross storage capacity of the dam’s reservoir is 327,170,000 cu. m. (265,240 acre·ft) and it has a usable storage capacity of 258,000,000 cu. m.. The drainage area is 686 sq. kms. and is 11 kms. long with a maximum width of 1 km.. It once generated 75 megawatts (MW) via three 25 MW generating units placed in an underground 17-m. high, 30-m. long and 9-m. wide power house cut from the solid rock.

Manmade Ambuklao Lake

On July 16, 1990, a massive earthquake hit Luzon, damaging the dam’s spillways, turbines and reservoir, resulting in siltation and technical problems that affected the plant’s operations. In 1999, the Ambuklao Dam was decommissioned. However, on November 28, 2007, SN Aboitiz Power-Benguet, Inc. (SNAP-Benguet), a joint venture between SN Power of Norway and Aboitiz Power, won the public bid for Ambuklao Dam and Binga Dam, its neighboring power facility in Itogon, which were sold (for US$325 million) as a package under the power sector privatization program of the Philippine government.

Transmission towers bring power from the dam to the Luzon grid

In December 2008, SNAP-Benguet began a massive rehabilitation project that restored Ambuklao Dam to operating status, increasing its capacity from 75 MW to 105 MW. The project required the construction of a new intake, headrace and penstock, elevation of tailrace tunnel outlet, de-silting of tailrace tunnel and replacement of electro-mechanical components. On June 1, 2011, Unit 3 became the first turbine unit to go on-line, followed by the other two units. On October 2011, Ambuklao Dam was formally inaugurated. Ambuklao Dam, designed as a peaking plant, is capable of delivering energy and providing ancillary services needed to maintain the grid.

Nicole, Violet, Rose, Almira and Lorelei at another dam view point

How to Get There: The dam is accessible from the inter-provincial road going cross-country to Cagayan Valley through a scenic 36-km. mountain highway stretching across the crest of the dam to Kabayan.

For group tours, you must apply one week in advance at the following:

National Power Corporation: Bonifacio St., Baguio City, Benguet.

National Power Corporation: Agham Rd. cor. Quezon Ave., Diliman, Quezon City. Tel: (632) 921-3541. Fax: (632) 921-2468. E-mail: postmaster@napocor.gov.ph.

Mt. Pulag National Park (Bokod to Camp 2)

Posted on 19 February, 2015 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From the DENR Office, it was another 2-hours drive, this time along mostly unpaved roads, to the forest ranger station at Camp Babalac. Along the way are breathtaking views of narrow valleys and vegetable and rice terraces. The ranger station, a place where mountaineers make final preparations, cook, rest and make last minute supply acquisition before the trek, sits near a small village at the base of the trail.

Camp Badalac Ranger Station

Tour organizer Violet Imperial and our two guides

It being a Chinese New Year holiday, the ranger station was filled with trekkers. Here, I crammed all I needed for the overnight camping in my larger backpack and left the rest of my clothes in the smaller backpack. We also met our two guides and hired porters (PhP600/round trip) to help carry our backpacks to our designated camping ground at Camp 2. It was to be a 7.5-km./3.5 to 5-hour hike to Mt. Pulag’s summit but we were to do it in stages.

The trek begins ….. (photo: Mr. Maki Las)

After saying a short prayer for safety around Violet, we started our climb by 10 AM. At first, the road was well-paved concrete. After passing by some vegetable terraces, it was all dirt but the view was already breathtaking as we entered the pine forest. This was also the hardest part of the trail.

Hiking along the pine forest

At the ranger station, there were already worrying gray clouds ahead that brought about a slight drizzle, necessitating our wearing raincoats. Sure enough, it began to rain, making the quite steep, uphill/downhill trail wet, muddy and slippery. We arrived at Camp 1 by noontime. Here, we rested awhile and ate our packed lunch of rice, chicken adobo and canned tuna.

Wet and hungry at Camp 1 (photo: Mr. Maki Las)

Leaving Camp 1, the mossy forest soon starts, a stark contrast from the warm sunshine and pine forest we passed a while ago. At this part of the trail, we were now trekking under the cool shelter of trees that are stunted and bonsai-like. As the altitude increased, the air was starting to thin and we were making frequent stops to catch our breath, hearing the rapid beats of our own hearts amidst the weird silence.

The creepy and sinister mossy forest

Continuing on, I began to question myself and my sanity in being here. It was already raining profusely when we reached Camp 2 by 3 PM and we had to slog through the mud just to make it to our already set up dome tents. There were thoughts in my mind of continuing on to the summit in the remaining daylight but, as I was already dead tired, decided against it. Big mistake.

Still in high spirits as we near Camp 2

Violet, Jandy, Maki and I occupied one tent; Almira, Lorelie and her kids in the nearby second tent; and friends Rose, Rayhil and Marceju with Celeste in the third. As preparation for the cold night ahead, Jandy and I donned thermal underwear and tried to rest. That night, it rained heavily and the wind picked up, allowing condensation to seep through our tents.

Muck, fog and rain at Camp 2

Our sleeping bags, socks, gloves and shoes were drenched as we ate our supper of pork sinigang, lumpiang shanghai and steamed rice. There were latrines at the edge of the mountain but getting there was an effort due to the sticky mud and extreme cold. I didn’t sleep a wink as I shivered all throughout the night, with a temperature that dipped to almost a freezing zero and penetrated through the bones.

A still foggy and rainy morning at Camp 2

Waking up by 3 AM to trek the remaining distance to the summit where, on a clear day, mountaineers usually await the sunrise above a sea of clouds, was out of the question. Daylight and a warm breakfast of rice, scrambled eggs and hotdog plus hot coffee and chocolate was a welcome relief. It was still drizzling when we broke camp. As most of our stuff were waterlogged and added to the weight of backpacks, Violet and Almira now hired porters to carry their packs. As we made our way back down the trail, the weather started to improve and the sun soon shone when we reached Camp 1.

View of the so-far unreachable summit of Mt. Pulag at Camp 1

When we arrived, the camp was filled with the tents of trekkers who weren’t allowed to proceed to Camp 2 the other day because the camp had reached the maximum number allowed. As it turned out, we were the last batch allowed to proceed. Here, on a hill above the camp, we had a clear and beautiful panoramic view of Mt. Pulag’s so-far unattainable grassy summit as well as surrounding pine-cladded mountains.

L-R: Maki, Violet, Almira, the author, Celeste and Lorelie

Rest stop on a grassy clearing on the hike back

As our descent was easy and more leisurely, I had more time to appreciate the mountain’s high plant diversity (home to 528 plant species, 42% of which are endemic to the area). I was also struck by the variation in flora, from tall pine trees that clad the mountain’s hillsides.

There were wild orchids thriving on its slopes up to the 7,000 ft. level; a 5,877-hectare elfin forest with small stunted oak trees heavily overgrown with ferns, moss and lichen found at the 1,500-2,600-m. (4,900-8,500-ft.) level; and a natural, windswept, 804-hectare montane grassland at the summit. The beauty of it all more than mitigated my frustration of not making it to the summit.

Beautiful mountain scenery on a sunny day

Vegetable terraces

About 1.5 kms. to the ranger station, I hitched a ride (PhP100) on a habal-habal (motorcycle taxi) to the station. Jandy was already there waiting for me when I arrived. After about 20 mins., the others arrived – muddied, haggard and dead tired. Our chartered jeepney that would bring us back to Baguio City was parked nearby. After washing up, we retrieved our other belongings, loaded our packs at the jeepney’s roof rack and left the ranger station for Country Road Cafe and Restaurant where we were to have lunch. We never made it to the summit but Mt. Pulag has not seen the last of me. I will definitely be back.

Riding a habal-habal back to the Ranger Station

Camp Babalac Ranger Station: Sitio Badalac, Brgy. Bashoy, Kabayan, Benguet. Mobile number: (0930) 139-2246.

Mt. Pulag National Park – Manila to Bokod

Posted on 18 February, 2015 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

A very big item in my travel Bucket List is to climb the three highest mountains in the Philippines – the 2,956 m. high Mt. Apo and the 2,938 m. high Mt. Dulang-Dulang, both in Mindanao, and the 2,922 m. high Mt. Pulag in Luzon, all in that order. Of course, it made sense to first climb the latter, the nearest to home of the three.

Mt. Pulag National Park

I booked my climb to Mt. Pulag, with my son Jandy, through good friend Violeta Imperial, Exec. Director of Nature Awareness and Conservation Club, Inc. All in all, we were 12 (our 13^th member, Mr. Maki Las was to meet us in Baguio) in our group. There are four different trails going to the grassland summit of Mt. Pulag – the Bokod (also called Ambangeg) Trail, the 2 to 3-day Akiki (called the “Killer Trail,” it is the steepest) Trail, the leech (limatik)-infested Tawangan Trail and the Ambaguio (the longest) Trail in Nueva Vizcaya. and we were going to climb the mountain via the easy Bokod Trail (also called the “Executive Trail”) which is the safest and has the mildest grade.

The ladies at our chartered passenger jeepney

Joining Violet, Jandy and I were Expedition Leader Mr. Rexbello “Rex” Alfafara (mobile numbers 0920-4651626 and 09327435252) of Sierra Adventurers and Mountain Explorers, Inc.; good friends Ms. Rayhil Palaganas (Financial Advisor – Sun Life Financial), Ms. Rosemarie S. Palmera and Ms. Marceju Aizza A. Ragat (JDE Finance Functional Consultant – Cyret Technologies, Inc.); Ms. Almira Ablan Tinonas (De La Salle University student/artist); Ms. Celeste Marie “Lelet” Garcia (HR Manager – Phoenix Petroleum); and Ms. Lorelie Mandela (Project Manager – Global Business World) with her children Celene and Arvin.

Country Road Cafe and Restaurant

We all assembled at the Victory Liner Terminal in Pasay City and left on the 9 PM bus for Baguio City, the jump-off point for our climb. After running the gauntlet of traffic along EDSA and 2 stopovers at Tarlac City and Sison (Pangasinan), we arrived at the city’s Victory Liner Bus Terminal by 3:45 AM. We then boarded a passenger jeepney chartered by Rex for our climb. Up ahead was a 2-hour/80 km. roller coaster drive, through the winding zigzags of the fabled Ambuklao Road, to Kabayan town. I shouldn’t have slept through part of the trip as I woke up sick on my stomach. We had our breakfast at Country Road Café and Restaurant but I didn’t eat much.

DENR Mt. Pulag Park Office

That done, we returned to our jeepney for the short drive to the DENR Mt. Pulag Park Office to register and secure a permit, both done by Violet, and be given a short briefing. Climbers are asked to register for orientation either here or at the Babadak ranger station at Bashoy village in Kabayan.

L-R: Almira, Rose, Rayhil, Marceju, Lorelie, Arvin, Celeste and Celene

There were lots of would-be and real mountaineers waiting for orientation prior to their climb. We were on the second batch. During our orientation, DENR Superintendent Emerita Albas gave our group a short environmental briefing on the dos and don’ts, the harsh environment and the basics of mountaineering for trekking Mt. Pulag National Park. The orientation was necessary for the climbers’ safety and the park’s environmental protection. Here are some tips and park rules to follow when climbing Mt. Pulag:

Garbage in, garbage out. Trash, whether organic or non-biodegradable should all be brought down and disposed of properly.
No intimacy at the campsite.
Stay on the established trails to minimize damage to vegetation and prevent further destruction of the mountain slopes. Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when it is wet or muddy.

Respect the serenity of the place by keeping noise to a minimum level. Wildlife such as birds may get scared and interrupted from their normal routine.
Strong hikers, especially for big groups, should be designated to act as sweepers to take care of stragglers. In this way, weaker members are assured that they could get help from others should they be in trouble.
All hikers must always be guided by the Mountaineer’s Creed – take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time.
On the way up, slower hikers must give way to stronger hikers. On the other hand, stronger hikers should not tailgate weaker hikers.
If there are no trail signs at trail junctions, advance group members should make temporary directional signs (e.g. Sticks, scratch on the soil, etc.) for others to follow.
It is always best to be on the side of caution especially when hiking along slippery trails. Light walking sticks, canes and trekking poles help a lot as it acts like another foot. Help, especially medical in nature, may take some time to reach anybody. In case of trouble or emergencies, attract help by making as much noise as possible by hollering or shouting.
To avoid creating wildfires, smokers must properly put off their cigarettes as the pine forest floor is susceptible to fire, especially during summer months. Smoking in the grassland is highly discouraged. Bonfires at the campsite are also prohibited. For cooking and boiling water, bring a portable stove.
Before hiking, fill up your canteens or water bottles (1.5 to 2 liters of water is recommended per person). At camp 1 and Camp 2, there are springs nearby and the water is potable. For people who have sensitive stomachs, the use of purifying tablets is advisable. If you are bringing bottled water with you on your hike, please keep the empty bottle and bring them back down and out the national park when you leave.
The weather on the mountain is unpredictable and it could rain anytime. It is therefore advisable for hikers to bring with them rain gear (raincoat, poncho, etc.) and warm clothing (jackets, sweaters, scarves, bonnets, gloves, thermal underwear, socks, blankets, etc.) to ward off cold temperatures. But don’t wear your warm clothing yet on your hike to Camp 2 as your body will heat up from all the energy you burn. Waterproof your things. Bring a waterproof backpack cover, plastic bags or black garbage bags and a drybag for your camera.

As your feet are the most important part of your body during a trek (once you injure them, you have no way of going back down, lest you are carried down), wear comfortable yet sturdy shoes with good traction (you will slide and stumble, at one point or another) underneath. Make sure the shoes you wear are broken-in and comfortable.
For those bringing their tents, use a three or four-season tent that can withstand the cold wind and rain.
Bring only what is necessary as loads get heavier for every kilometer traversed. The lesser the weight on your bag, the easier your trek will be.
Park officers reserve the right to randomly inspect baggage to determine whether banned items (liquor, dangerous drugs, deadly weapons, etc.) are present. Such items, when found, will be automatically confiscated and kept for safekeeping.
Communicate with your expedition leader and/or designated/hired guide. He possesses knowledge of the area.

Expedition leader Rex Alfafara

Respect the indigenous people’s (Ibaloi, Kalanguya, Kankana-ey and Ibanag) culture. Their culture may be different from yours but it is their culture. Most of them consider Mt. Pulag as a sacred place not only because it is a resting place and playground of their gods but also a place where they bury their dead. You are in their cultural ground.
If climbers reach the Badabak ranger station at 5 PM, they are advised to spend the night there and not persist on hiking to the grassland area or camping area since the area, after 5 PM, is always misty and cloudy, making directional signs and trails not easily visible.
Hiking is not a race. It should be fun and is free. Take time to regulate your breathing, look around and enjoy the scenery that nature offers.

DENR Superintendent Emerita Albas

DENR-PASu Office: Sitio Ambangeg, Brgy. Daclan, Bokod, Benguet. Tel: (074) 444-3592. Mobile number (0919) 631-5402 (Ms. Albas).

Current park fee rates (the first two are remitted to the Integrated Protected Area Fund or IPAF while the third is remitted to the Kabayan local treasury for their use):

Entrance fee: PhP100.00
Camping fee: PhP50.00
Green fee: PhP25.00

Aside from the fees, hikers are required to engage an accredited guide (member of MPITGA) with a ratio of 1-7 hikers to 1 guide. The pay is P500.00 per guide per overnight.

The author with tour organizer Violeta Imperial

Nature Awareness and Conservation Club, Inc.: 18 Pioneer St., Moonwalk Village, Las Pinas City, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 806-1720. Mobile numbers: (0915) 510-1600 and (0932) 243-9478. E-mail: mother_nature888@nacci888.org.

Sierra Adventurers and Mountain Explorers, Inc.: E-mail: sierra.org.ph@gmail.com, Website: www.sierra.org.ph.

Malacanang Museum and Library (Manila)

Posted on 2 February, 2015 by Benjie Layug — 3 Comments ↓

January came and went without me visiting a notable Philippine museum and I wasn’t about to let February pass without visiting one. It was with great anticipation that my family (wife Grace, son Jandy, daughter Cheska and grandson Kyle) and I was looking forward to visit the Malacanang Museum and Library, especially with my balikbayan aunt, Pacita B. “Paz” Layug, with Chinese-American friend Harold (a first-time Manila visitor), joining us, both on a short Manila stopover on their Asian cruise. Also joining us was my sister Tellie. We all met up at the Kalayaan Gate by 9:30 AM and our museum tour promptly started at 10 AM.

Malacanang Museum and Library

The Palace grounds, with its huge lawn and tress, and its buildings were truly imposing. Behind it is the Pasig River. The handsome, arcaded museum, housed within the historic Kalayaan Hall (called Maharlika Hall during the time of Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos), the old Executive Building designed by Ralph Harrington Doane in the elegant Neo-Renaissance style and built in 1920, had the ambiance of an old and grand ancestral house, but warm and homey.

Relaunched in 2003, the museum was, for the most part, restored during the term of Pres. Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and has been open to the public since then. Photography was allowed but only one camera is allowed per group booking, so we choose Jandy’s Sony AR-3500 digital SLR. Stickers were used to cover our group’s Smartphone lenses.

Plaque installed by National Historical Commission

At the lobby, we met up with Mr. Brian Paul R. Luna, our knowledgeable and lively museum guide. With his assistance, we learned interesting facts, trivia and stories that add to the many narratives about the Philippine presidents and the Palace during our 2-hour tour. He shared with us the rich history of each of the 9 stately, historically important and architecturally significant rooms in the country displaying the impressive legacies of the nation’s past presidents.

The author and Kyle at the Old Executive Secretary’s Office

The well-maintained museum is organized by theme and by period. It features galleries and exhibits showcasing the heritage of the Palace and the Presidency of the Philippines as well as a well-curated collection of artwork and furniture from the Palace collections. The exhibits include the history of Malacañang Palace, featuring gifts, relics, memorabilia, artwork and photographs, principally at the ground floor rooms which are dedicated to American colonial era. Most are paneled in hardwood and sumptuously carved by Isabelo Tampinco, a renowned Filipino master woodcarver, who also carved the wood and plaster ornamentation.

Table settings, in a regal royal blue accented with gold trim

The first room we visited was the Old Executive Secretary’s Office. It is now a display room for First Ladies (the “Official Hostess of the Palace”), from the time of Manuel L. Quezon’s own first lady, Aurora, to Luisa “Loi” Estrada. However, there was no picture of First Gentleman Jose Miguel “Mike” Arroyo. On the left is the portrait of the controversial Imelda R. Marcos (also the only one with a bronze bust on display), the country’s most beautiful First Lady.

The Order of Sikatuna

Also on display is the Grand Collar of the Order of Sikatuna, Rank of Raja, usually conferred to Heads of State; table settings, in a regal royal blue accented with gold trim, used for official Palace events; and a sample guest book for official state functions and dinner (including the guestbook, encased in glass, signed by the late Pope John Paul II in 1972).

The guestbook, encased in glass, signed by the late Pope John Paul II in 1972

We all then went up a staircase to the Quezon Executive Office, said to be the first airconditioned office in the Philippines. First used by Pres. Manuel L. Quezon as his office, it was later used by Gen. Fabian Ver, the Chief of the Armed Forces of the Philippines under Marcos During Pres. Corazon C. Aquino’s administration, it was transformed into the office of the Press Secretary.

Quezon Executive Office

Inside is the original presidential desk, elaborately carved by Tampinco; and the first state portrait of Quezon on the main wall, done by Leon Gordon, which was first hung in the Palace Reception Hall from 1937 to 1979. Now preserved as an executive office, national and presidential flags, as well as the seal of the president, are displayed in accordance with protocol.

The main wall with the first state portrait of Quezon, done by Leon Gordon

From this room, we moved on to the Roxas Cabinet Room, easily one of the brighter rooms in the Palace, with windows that opened up into terraces. Named after Pres. Manuel L. Roxas, who first used the space as the Cabinet Room, the administrations following him used it for meetings and as offices. In 1981, it was converted into into the control room for President Marcos’ television studio. It is interesting to note that the Seal of the Republic is engraved on the backrest of the 8 chairs.

The Roxas Cabinet Room

Next room in line during our tour was the Quirino Council of State Room, colored a shade of ivory, windows draped with heavy curtains and with gold-gilded lanterns lining the wall. Constructed in 1937-39 as the Council of State Room, it was where the newly-reconstituted Council of State during the administration of Pres. Manuel L. Quezon met, a practice kept until the Diosdado P. Macapagal Administration. It was also here that the National Economic Council, today’s NEDA, met. Pres. Manuel L. Quezon preferred to have his cabinet meetings in this room, as did Presidents Elpidio R. Quirino, Carlos P. Garcia and Diosdado Macapagal.

Quirino Council of State Room

Presidents Roxas, Quirino, Magsaysay, Garcia, Macapagal, and Marcos also had important meetings in this room and it was here, until the Marcos administration, that officials generally took their oaths of office before the President of the Philippines. From the administration of Pres. Manuel Roxas until Carlos P. Garcia, all treaties and conventions entered into by the Republic of the Philippine and foreign governments were also signed in this room. Pres. Elpidio Quirino (on April 17, 1948, after the sudden demise of Pres. Manuel Roxas) and Carlos P. Garcia (on March 18, 1957, after the tragic death of Pres. Ramon Magsaysay) also took their oaths of office in this room.

Wall with portrait of Pres. Quirino painted by the late National Artist Fernando C. Amorsolo

During the administration of Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos, cabinet meetings were transferred to the State Dining Room (now the Aguinaldo State Dining Room) in Malacañan Palace, and this room was turned into part of a television studio in 1981. It was restored to its original state in 2003 and, on November 16, 2003, was renamed after Pres. Elpidio Quirino by virtue of Proclamation No. 501. On display here are furniture original to the room (perfectly matching the drapes), a portrait of Pres. Quirino painted by the late National Artist Fernando C. Amorsolo and sculptures, from the Malacañan Palace Collection, by National Artist Guillermo E. Tolentino.

The Main Hall

From these rooms, we proceeded to the Main Hall, formerly the site of guest bedrooms when the building was first constructed in 1920. During the early years of the Philippine Commonwealth, it was transformed into offices to accommodate the growing bureaucracy. In 1968, upon the directive of President and Mrs. Marcos, the area was cleared and converted into the Maharlika Hall (Royalty Hall), a ceremonial hall where state dinners, large assemblies and lavish parties were held.

Presidential busts

In 1972, it was temporarily used as an evacuation center for the victims of a typhoon that damaged a large part of Central Luzon. On February 25, 1986, the front west balcony of this hall was where Pres. Marcos proclaimed himself the victor of the 1986 Snap Elections, took his last public oath of office and delivered his farewell speech.

Balcony where Marcos declared himself the winner of the snap election

The hall now houses the Gallery of Presidents of the Philippines together with a display of selected State and Official Gifts to Pres. Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and the Special Exhibit of Campaign Posters of the 1965 Presidential Elections.

Diosdado Macapagal Gallery

Each President in the Gallery has his own bust as well as as a suit or a dress they once wore. The suits and accessories of presidents, from Emilio F. Aguinaldo to Quezon, is quite interesting as, aside from their other artifacts of clothing, there was the predominance of walking canes, a sign of social status.

Carlos P. Garcia Gallery

However, it is worth noting that none of our presidents grew mustaches, another sign of social status which ilustrados (Spanish for ‘erudite’ or ‘learned ones’) such as José P. Rizal, Marcelo H. del Pilar and Graciano López Jaena all grew.

Manuel L. Quezon Gallery

Other clothing items on display include the riding boots of Pres. Ramon Magsaysay, necklaces of President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and more. As the incumbent president, and entire division is dedicated to Pres. Benigno S. “Noynoy” Aquino III, complete with a life-sized image of himself which we took pictures with.

Posing with the life-size statue of Noynoy Aquino (6)

Also on display is the original, well-preserved blackboard, used by Gen. Fabian Ver and the other generals who were loyal to President Marcos, for planning their attack during the People Power Revolution. It has a chalk-drawn sketch of the original plans, showing San Juan (Metro Manila), to diffuse the growing crowds along EDSA. On the right hand side is data with the names of Sen. Juan Ponce Enrile and Gen. Fidel V. Ramos.

State and Official Gifts

Painting and sculpture that decorate Maharlika Hall are breathtaking, with pieces made of metal, bronze, and marble, mostly of Italian influence – Roman gods and goddesses or playful nymphs – all from the Marcos’ private collection.

“Nereids” (Las Nereidas) of Joaquin Sorolla

Gifts and trinkets from visiting dignitaries are also on display. There’s a statue of former Pres. Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo dressed as a ship captain, with her hands on the helm and, in the background, what seems to be the spirit of Jesus Christ guiding her. There’s one thing wrong with this statue though, she’s a tad too tall. Some of the more impressive collections come from the Marcoses, such as the library the former First Lady Imelda Marcos bought from the estate of Marie Louise of Austria (a.k.a. Maria Ludovica Leopoldina Franziska Therese Josepha Lucia von Habsburg-Lothringen), the second wife of Napoleon I, Emperor of the French, and later Duchess of Parma.

Perseus and Andromache of Auguste Moreau

There’s also the bronze statue“Perseus and Andromache” signed by famous French artist Auguste Moreau (1855-1919), and the painting “Nereids” (Las Nereidas) of Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida (1863-1923), donated by Alma le Normand de Bretteville Spreckels and conserved and restored by the National Museum, Union Fenosa and Cooperacion Espanola in 2001.

Southeast Gallery

From the main hall, we proceeded to the Southeast Gallery which displays the memorabilia of the late Pres. Corazon C. “Cory” Aquino, the nation’s first female president and the incumbent president’s mother. A humble housewife, Cory was the only president, thus far, who did not hold any public office prior to being elected the Chief Executive.

Portrait of Cory, by Filipino artist Vincente Lopez Vito, Jr., using nails

On display are some photographs, paintings (including a portrait of Cory, by Filipino artist Vincente Lopez Vito, Jr., using nails), the awards she received during and after her presidency, campaign materials, and other artworks evoking her life and achievements.

Osmena Room

The more feminine-looking Osmena room was, in my mind, the most amazing. The walls here, decorated with cotton candy pink, were lined with Champagne yellow faux stone stucco with gold accents; the chandelier was impressive and the very masculine black and red dining table was huge enough to evoke a sense of power. It was easy to imagine the many critical decisions that must have been reached in that room.

Osmena Room Plaque

The overhead cement French frieze, also done by Tampinco, featured different Filipino landscape scenes amid cherubs, eagles and sea lions. Between 1921 and 1935, the Cabinet Room served as the meeting room of the Governor-General and his Cabinet as well as other bodies, such as the Council of State (which included Sergio Osmena), chaired by the Chief Executive. On September 9, 2003, the 125 birth anniversary of Osmena, it was renamed the Osmena Room by virtue of Proclamation No. 463. Its restoration was completed in 2008.

The Old Governor-General’s Office

The Old Governor-General’s Office, used by the various U.S. governor-generals during the American occupation was, as far as I am concerned, the room to see. It has nothing to do with its origin but, rather, what it holds inside. Inside is the actual furniture set, including the desk used by Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos when, on September 21, 1972, he announced Proclamation No. 1081 declaring Martial Law, a grim date and an event that would forever alter Philippine history and the psyche of the Filipino people.

The desk used by Pres. Ferdinand E. Marcos when, on September 21, 1972, he announced Proclamation No. 1081 declaring Martial Law

Here, we even watch the actual black-and-white clip of his TV broadcast on a 1970’s TV set. Also on display is a reproduction of the text of Proclamation 1081, as well as facsimiles of important documents promulgated by former Chief Executives of the Philippines from Malacañang.

Reproduction of the text of Proclamation 1081

The Old Waiting Room, surrounded by old wooden hardwood panels and big mirrors from the Spanish occupation, with carvings of cherubs and eagles looking down from the walls, showcases presidential campaign materials and paraphernalia dating back to the time of Manuel Roxas, the fifth president.

Old Waiting Room

They include such items as the neon yellow Noynoy Aquino shirt, the bright orange “Erap Para sa Mahirap” (Erap for the Poor) jacket plus various materials from presidential candidates that didn’t win (posters of Jose de Venecia, Jr., Raul S. Roco, etc.). We also listened to “Mambo Mambo Magsaysay,” appreciating the rock ‘n roll element of this 1950s ditty that was Ramon Magsaysay’s famous campaign jingle.

The Presidential Studio

Our last tour stop was the Presidential Studio, basically a function room that was officially last used in 2012 for the wake of the late Secretary of the Interior and Local Government Jesse M. Robredo. Here, we had our picture taken behind the podium, carrying the official seal, which the President uses when he rehearses for the SONA (State of the Nation Address).

My family at the podium, carrying the official seal, which the President uses when he rehearses for the SONA (State of the Nation Address).

On our way out, we passed by the tiny souvenir’s booth near the exit door. Here, you could buy some nice, affordable and unique souvenir items such as bags, mugs and T-shirts with palace’s logo, plus the usual stuff such as key chains and ball pens.

Our worthwhile tour, aside from showing us some amazing rooms and exhibits in the Palace plus some exquisite works of art, also added an insightful take into events that transpired within Kalayaan Hall, helping us delve deeper into the symbolism and meaning of Malacanang Palace, a silent witness to the men and women who have led this nation, for better or for worse, for the past 100 years. Truly a tour for any history buff or for those who are simply looking to discover and learn.

Malacañang Museum and Library: Kalayaan Hall, Malacañang Palace Complex, 1000 J.P. Laurel, Sr. St., San Miguel District, Manila. Open Mondays to Fridays, 9 AM to 12 noon and 1 – 3 PM. Tel: (632) 784-4286 local 4945 or 4645. Fax: (632) 784-4286 local 4722. Admission: PhP50 (PhP30 for students and senior citizens). Website: www.malacanang.gov.ph.

Visits are strictly by appointment only and can be initiated by writing or faxing the Director at least seven days in advance. The communication must contain the full names and nationalities (for foreign nationals, a photocopy of his or her passport main page must be attached to the reservation form) of all people included in the visit, as well as the desired date and time of the visit and contact information. This information is required for security clearance by the Presidential Security Group. Once the communication has been received, the Visitor and Tours Coordinator at the Malacañang Museum will facilitate the request and confirm the visit. Confirming that the request has been duly received is the responsibility of the requesting party. Approval or denial of the request can be confirmed one day before the date of visit. Groups that are late by more than 30 minutes beyond their scheduled tour appointment shall not be entertained. They may, however, be moved to the next available slot by the Tour Coordinator.

Those not included in the guest list shall not be allowed entrance to the Palace grounds. Visitors to the Museum are advised to adhere to a smart casual dress code. Those wearing shorts, sleeveless tops, and slippers shall not be granted entry to the Palace grounds. All visitors are provided with a tour guide.

Photography is allowed, but is restricted to within the Malacañang Museum. However, taking video footage is prohibited without prior clearance from the Presidential Security Group. All scheduled visits and tours are subject to rescheduling or cancellation on the advice of the Presidential Security Group.

Entrance is through the Kalayaan Gate. Visitors in private vehicles or by taxi can enter the Malacañang environs through either Arlegui Street or J.P. Laurel Street Entrances and either park or disembark in the Mendiola Street Car Park, after which a short stroll along J.P. Laurel Street will bring them to Kalayaan Gate. Visitors on foot can also arrive via the General Solano Street or San Rafael Street Entrances.

New Year Countdown at the Manila InterContinental (Makati City)

Posted on 31 December, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

For the third time around (the first was in the iconic Manila Hotel, followed by the Dusit Hotel), my family and I decided to spend New Year’s Eve in a hotel and, this time around, we chose to stay at the nearby InterContinental Manila (colloquially Intercon/ICM). This 5-star InterContinental hotel, part of the longest operating international chain hotel in the Philippines, holds the distinction of being the first 5-star deluxe hotel in Makati and the second InterContinental hotel to open in Asia.

InterContinental Manila Hotel

Designed by my uncle, the late National Artist Leandro Locsin, this 14-storey landmark hotel opened on April 11, 1969 as part of the overall redevelopment plan for Makati.It is owned by Ayala Land Hotels and Resorts Corp., Ayala Land’s wholly owned subsidiary. Conveniently located within Ayala Center (Makati Commercial Center years before), opposite the Glorietta, it is walking distance to 5 big shopping malls (SM, Rustans, Landmark, etc.), great restaurants, an MRT-3 station (Ayala Station) and cinemas. It still exudes the charm and elegant atmosphere of the old Manila I am familiar with.

Cafe Jeepney

This old but well-maintained hotel has won numerous awards such as the “Best Hotel Kikay Festival” for “Festival Gastronomique le Kikay Bleu” in 1982 and 1983; the Green Globe Award for Outstanding Environmental Programs in 1998; “Outstanding in Community Involvement for Southern Asia” among InterContinental hotels in 2002; and the TTG (Travel Trade Gazette) Travel Awards as the “Best City Hotel” in 2010, 2011 and 2013.

Hotel Lobby

In 1997, the hotel also placed first in Asia Pacific and third in the world in the D’Richey Report and, in 2007, it was voted by readers of Business Traveler Magazine Asia Pacific as one of the three top hotels in the Philippines.

Cafe Jeepney dining area

We all checked in at a spacious and comfortable 2-bed De Luxe room (Suite 839), one of 332 guest rooms that were updated in 2006. Incorporating traditional and modern Filipino design infused with a refined European touch, each room had warm earth tones and rich, walnut wood finish. it features individually-controlled airconditioning, flat-screen LCD cable TV, work desk with lamp, in-room safe, IDD/NDD phone, coffee/tea making facility, mini fridge, private bathroom with bathtub and free high-speed wireless internet.

Double Bed De Luxe Suite (Suite 839)

The staff was polite, efficient and attentive to our needs. The presence of pretty Ambassador ladies greeting guests at the entrance was a nice touch. They also offer valet, airport transfers, currency exchange, tours, concierge, car rental, laundry and room service. InterContinental Manila has 4 restaurants and bars that offer a wide selection of food and wines to suit every taste and to match the occasion.

Gambrinus Bar

The Prince Albert Rotisserie, a fine dining restaurant, offers gourmet French and Continental fare, classic wines and is best known for its tableside preparation of US prime rib and Crepe Suzette. In addition to the main dining section, the restaurant boasts of three dining salons for guests desiring more privacy. During our stay, they offered a special New Year’s Eve set dinner menu (PhP2,990++ per person) which included veal, duckling, and morel terrine and roast prime rib of Aberdeen Angus beef with baked potato, buttered garden vegetables and red wine sauce. A special à la carte menu was likewise be offered. Its impeccable service has reaped prestigious awards and numerous citations including Ordre Mondial des Gourmets Gustateurs ‘Trés Belle Carte” (Best Wine List) Award.

Sol y Sombra

Café Jeepney, a favorite meeting place and watering hole for people in the news and those who write about them, was where we had our breakfast. The evening of our stay, they offered a buffet for PhP2,000++ per person. Themed around the world famous Filipino jeepney, it features a mouth-watering spread of Filipino and international fare, a la carte and buffet style, including live cooking and carving stations.

Function Room

The ground floor Gambrinus Bar, a venue to meet family and friends amongst the view of the poolside garden, offers an appetizing selection of a la carte dishes, bar chows and cocktails while listening to live music in the evening. Sol y Sombra offers savory snacks, tropical thirst quenchers and cocktails by the poolside or inside one of the “bahay kubos” (nipa huts).

Club Lounge

The Club Lounge, where we had access, offered breakfast and snacks throughout the day as well as happy hour in the evening. It had a stunning view of the Makati skyline. The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool (said to be the largest in Makati), an 800-1,000-pax grand ballroom, 7 meeting rooms (Bahia, San Lorenzo, etc.), business center, full-service spa (Suriya), sauna, gift shop, beauty salon and a gym (Gold’s Gym)..

Swimming Pool

Our room package (PhP9,888 net) also included a New Year’s Countdown for two, which started 8 PM onwards, at its Grand Ballroom, with free-flowing red and white wine, champagne, soda, iced tea, and a buffet spread of holiday favorites.

New Year Countdown at the Grand Ballroom

Performing live music on stage was the all-girl (AJ Salvado, Jen Manalac, and Pia Diamante) Silk Band who rendered rhythm & blues and the best of OPM, from the 1970s to the present. Right after the countdown, we watched the fireworks outside.

Family bonding at the InterContinental Manila

InterContinental Manila: 1 Ayala Ave., Ayala Center, Makati City, 1226 Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 793-7000. Website: www.intercontinental.com/Manila.

Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Posted on 4 December, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

The highlight of my walking tour of Tblisi, with Filipina expat Ruby Bebita, was my visit to the very majestic Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral, a ready-made photo op also known as the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi. The main cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church, it is the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world.

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

The cathedral, in the historic neighborhood of Avlabari in Old Tbilisi, was erected on Elia (St. Elijah) Hill, which rises above the left bank of the Kura River (Mtkvari). Getting there involved a steep, uphill climb.

Ruby sitting at the steps leading to the cathedral

Though it has some Byzantine undertones, it was built in the traditional Georgian tetrahedron style of architecture, a synthesis of traditional styles which, at various stages in history, have dominated Classic Georgian church architecture. The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedral church, a free-standing bell tower, the Patriarch’s residence, a monastery, a clerical seminary, theological academy, several workshops, places for rest, etc.

The cathedral grounds with the bell tower on the right

A winning design of Architect Archil Mindiashvili, the main cathedral’s construction was mostly sponsored by anonymous donations from several businessmen as well as common citizens. The foundation of the new cathedral was laid on November 23, 1995. Nine years later, on November 23, 2004 (St. George’s Day), in a ceremony attended by leaders of other religious and confessional communities in Georgia as well as by political leaders, the cathedral was consecrated by Ilia II, the Catholicos Patriarch of Georgia, as well as high-ranking representatives of fellow Orthodox churches of the world.

The cathedral interior

The breathtaking cathedral’s exaggerated vertical emphasis is regarded as an eyesore by many but venerated by as many others. The cathedral has a cruciform plan. Its golden dome, over a crossing, rests on 8 columns and is surmounted by a 7.5 m. high, gold covered cross. The dome’s parameters, independent from the apses, imparts a more monumental look to the dome, and the cathedral in general.

The cathedral’s dome

This cathedral consists of 9 chapels (the chapels of the Archangels, John the Baptist, Saint Nino, Saint George, Saint Nicholas, the Twelve Apostles, and All Saints); 5 of which are situated in a large, underground compartment. The cathedral, measuring 56 m. by 44 m., has an overall area (including its large narthex) of 5,000 sq. m., a volume of 137 cu. m. and an interior area of 2,380 sq. m. (it can accommodate 15,000 people). Its height, from ground level to the top of the cross, is 105,5 m.. The 13 m. high underground chapel occupies 35,550 cu. m..

The model of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem

Natural materials were used for its construction. Marble tiles were utilized for the floor and the altar was decorated with mosaic. Its murals were executed by a group of artists guided by Amiran Goglidze. Though still without frescoes, many of the icons that adorn the walls are stunningly beautiful and the doors are carved with very beautiful images of the saints. There’s also a model of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem. Its free-standing, adjacent bell tower is also as grand as the cathedral itself. The well kept and tidy grounds are adorned with beautiful, well-manicured lawns, grass and colorful varieties of flowers

One of the cathedral’s nine chapels

Though it lacks the charm of the traditional and historical churches, this lovely, really big and new cathedral is still grand in its modesty and spiritual. Seen from almost every view point in Tbilisi, it was built by sacrifice and determination. Truly, it deserves more than a visit. As it sits high up atop a hill, it also has a fantastic view of the city and is also beautiful to behold at night when it is bathed with state-of-the-art spotlights. The cathedral is especially packed with worshipers on Saturday nights, Sunday mornings and feast days.

How To Get There: The neighborhood is served by the Avlabari Metro Station.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

A Walking Tour of Shota Rustaveli Avenue (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Posted on 4 December, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Shota Rustaveli Avenue

Shota Rustaveli Avenue, the central avenue in Tbilisi formerly known as Golovin Street, was built in the 19th century when M. S. Vorontsov was ruler of Georgia, was divided into two parts – Palace Street and the Golovin Avenue. In 1918, it named after medieval Georgian poet Shota Rustaveli, author of the immortal poem “The Knight in the Panther’s Skin.”

The author (in blue jacket) walking among sea of Georgians all in dark-colored jackets

The author (in blue jacket) walking among a sea of Georgians, all in dark-colored jackets and overcoats (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

A popular place for walking, I strolled along Rustaveli to soak up the bustling, cosmopolitan atmosphere of Tbilisi’s main thoroughfare which is lined with Oriental plane trees (Platanus orientalis) and strung with a handsome mix of modern and 20th-century architecture, with a contrasting European/Russian (Neo-Classical) look, such as important governmental, public, cultural, and business buildings as well as various cafes, shops, restaurants and other entertainment places.

Oriental plane trees lining the sidewalks

This fine, stately avenue, which leads off to the northwest, is one of the best architectural and tourist centers of Tbilisi. However, it is spoilt by the amount of traffic roaring up and down it these days. There are a number of pedestrian underpasses, but people here also cross the road with great nonchalance, waiting on the centre line until there’s a gap.

Freedom Square

Rustaveli Avenue (Rustavelis Gamziri in Georgian or Rustaveli Prospekt in Russian) starts at Freedom Square and extends for about 1.5 kms. before it turns into an extension of Kostavas Kucha (Kostava Street). Also branching out from this square are five other streets – Pushkin Street, Leselidze Street, Shalva Dadiani Street, Galaktion Street, and Leonidze Street. At its far end is the Freedom Square Metro Station at Rustaveli 6 where I alighted and started my stroll.

Bronze statue of St. George slaying the Dragon (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Freedom Square, first called Yerevan Square was, later in the Soviet period, renamed after Lavrentiy Pavlovich Beria and then after Vladimir Lenin. In the center of Freedom Square (once occupied by a monument to Lenin which was symbolically torn down in August 1991) is the Monument of Freedom and Victory, a fountain with a very tall 40 m. high column topped by a bronze statue of St. George slaying the Dragon, a gift, unveiled on November 23, 2006, of famous Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli to his native city.

Tbilisi Sakrebulo (City Assembly)

The entire southern line of the square is occupied by the main Pseudo Moorish-style facade of Tbilisi Sakrebulo (City Assembly), a former town council building built in 1880 by German architect Peter Stern. Its third storey, with a clock tower, was built between 1910 and 1912. This attractive building, with stripes of sandy green and white and mauresque stucco, now houses, at the eastern side of the ground floor, a well- equipped tourist information office, with plenty of free booklets, maps and helpful English-speaking staff, plus outlets of Burberry, Chronograph and Chopard.

Tbilisi National Youth Palace

The Tbilisi National Youth Palace, erected n 1802, was rebuilt many times, the last time from 1865-1868 when the building was enlarged by architect O. Simenson who added an arcade in front. From 1844 to 1917, the building was the residence of the Russian vice-regent in the Caucasus. On May 26, 1918, during the meeting of the Transcaucasian Seim, the Georgian delegation left the hall and, in the adjacent White Hall, proclaimed Georgia a sovereign country.

Plaque commemorating the May 26, 1918 declaration of state independence

At one time, Josef Stalin installed his mother here. On May 2, 1941, during the Soviet period, it served as the Pioneers’ Palace, housing the Soviet youth organization and a Museum of Children’s Toys. Still used for youth activities, it is the best place to find classes and displays of Georgian folk dance and the like. Around the palace is a well-kept garden, the back part of which faces Ingorokva Street. Aleksey Yermolov, the former Caucasian commander-in-chief, paid special attention to this garden, planting two large plane trees. In the past, the garden belonged to a princess of the Orbeliani family.

Old Parliarment Building (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Beyond the National Youth Palace is the Parliament Building, easily the most dominating building along Rustaveli Avenue. Designed by architects Victor Kokorin and Giorgi Lezhava, it was built as a U-shaped block in 1938 (on the site of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built in the 19th century for the Russian army), it’s very solid portico of tuff was built by German prisoners-of- war and the building was opened in 1953. Its 16 columns symbolize the 16 Soviet republics.

National Picture Gallery

The National Picture Gallery (Blue Gallery), built in 1885, was erected by the German architect Zalzman as the “Temple of Glory” to commemorate the victory of the Russian troops over the Persians. The trophy cannons recaptured from the Persian army, stood in front of the building in the last century.

School No. 1

Immediately beyond the Parliament Building is the High School No. 1, founded in 1802 as the first European-style high school in Transcaucasia. It educated many of the leading figures of recent Georgian history, including Merab Kostava, Zviad Gamsakhurdia, Tengiz Sigua and Tengiz Kitovani.

Plaque commemorating the March 9, 1956 massacre at the former Communications Building

A good example of Russian Neo-Classicism, it has statues of Ilia Chavchavadze and Akaki Tsereteli (1958) in front. It houses the Museum of Education. A plaque here commemorates those killed by the Soviet security forces on March 9, 1956.

Tblisi Marriot Hotel

Past the school, Rustaveli Avenue bends to the left and I found myself in front of the Tbilisi Marriott Hotel (No. 13), one of the massive constructions of the 20th century. Elegantly emphasizing the avenue’s bend, this building, opposite the Ministry of Transport and Communications, was designed by ethnic Armenian architect Gavriil Ter-Mikelov in 1915 as the Hotel Majestic.

Lobby of the Tblisi Marriot Hotel (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Later, it was renamed as Hotel Tbilisi. During the 1991-1992 Civil War, the hotel was burned and was later restored and reopened in 2002 as the luxurious Marriott Hotel.

Rustaveli State Academic Theater

Next to the hotel is the famous, splendid Rustaveli State Academic Theater (No. 17), one of the most beautiful buildings along the avenue. Designed by architects K. Tatishev and Alexandre Shimkevich in the French Neo-Classical style from 1899 to 1901, in the past it housed the Actors’ Society Club.

Rustaveli State Academic Theater – facade detail

Its ornate architecture involves the forms and motives of the Late Baroque Period, with mirror windows and a large portal. The theater was refurbished from 1920 to 1921, for the new Rustaveli Theatre Company, and was refurbished again from 2002 to 2005. Since 1921, the theater has carried the name of Shota Rustaveli, Georgia’s national poet. In 2006, a Hollywood-style “Walk of the Stars” was begun in front.

Rustaveli State Academic Theater – facade detail

It now houses a first-class theater, a large concert hall, a large and small ballroom, a small foyer, marble staircases, classical statues and a number of big and small rooms for the Actors’ Society Club. It has three stages – a main stage (about 800 seats), a smaller stage (300 seats) and a Black Box Theater (182 seats) for experimental performances. The Kimerioni (Chimera) Cafe-Bar, at the lower floor of the theater, has frescoes painted in 1919 by prominent Georgian painters Lado Gudiashvili and David Kakabadze, theater set designer Serge Sudeikin as well as Sigizmund Valishevski (he was called Ziga in Tbilisi) and Moise and Iracly Toidze. Nearby is the Theatrical Institute.

Paliashvili Opera and Ballet Theater

Not far from the Rustaveli State Academic Theater, along the north side of Rustaveli, is the elegant Paliashvili Opera and Ballet Theater (No. 25). Formerly the Public Theater, it was first built in 1851 but burned down on October 11, 1874. The present Moorish-Eastern style building was designed by architect Viktor Schroter and built from 1880 to 1896.

Z.Paliashvili Opera and Ballet Theater – intricate molding

In 1937, the theater was renamed in honor of Zakaria Paliashvili, one of Georgia’s greatest composers. It too burned down in 1973 but was rebuilt in 1977. Its towers, arches, turrets, stained glass windows, ornaments and intricate molding at the front entrance were all laboriously and meticulously made with special care.

Z.Paliashvili Opera and Ballet Theater – window ornamentation

The theater hosted, at different times, opera singers such as Fedor Shaliapin (who said “I was born twice: for life – in Kazan, for music – in Tbilisi”), Sergei Lemeshev, Vano Sarajishvili, Zurab Sotkilava, Paata Burchuladze, Jose Carreras and Montserrat Caballe; and ballet dancer Vakhtang Chabukiani.

Kempinski Hotel

Nearing the end of Rustaveli Avenue, I espied another monumental building – the former Georgian branch of Marxism-Leninism Institute. Designed by architect A. Shukin and built in 1938, its frieze is decorated with bas reliefs made by Iakob Nikoladze. Since 1993, the Constitutional Court has had its sittings there. Today, it is now home to a 200-room hotel, 50 apartments and 8 penthouses designed by Alexey Shuyev and managed by Kempinski Hotels. The new building, incorporating the historic main façade, features a domed hotel lobby and an octagonal courtyard.

Georgian National Academy of Sciences Building

Just at the end of Rustaveli is the Georgian National Academy of Sciences, a pompous building designed by architects K. Chkheidze and M. Chkhikvadze in 1953. It has a beautiful, low Italian-style colonnade; a solemn, angular tower revetted with Bolnisi tuff.

Tower of the Georgian National Academy of Sciences Building

Between its columns is a through arcade where you can go to the lower station (which has an oval design) of the cableway leading to the upper plateau of Mtatsminda. On the steps of the academy artists and craftsmen sell their works.

Statue of Shota Rustaveli

My walking tour of Rustaveli Avenue was completed upon reaching the monument to the poet Shota Rustaveli, made by a sculptor K. Merabishvili.

Metekhi Church of the Assumption (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Posted on 4 December, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

It was now the last whole day of our stay in Georgia and I reserved it for a walking tour around Tbilisi. As the historic neighborhood of Metekhi, located on the strategic elevated cliff that overlooks the Mtkvari River, was just near Meidan Square and my hostel, it was the first place I visited. Joining me was Filipina expat Ruby Bebita.

Metekhi Church of the Assumption

The district, one of the earliest inhabited areas on the city’s territory, was, according to traditional accounts, the site of a church, fort and palace which served as the king’s residence, all erected by King Vakhtang I Gorgasali. King David the Builder also had a palace and church here too. It was also the site of the burial place of 5^th century martyr St. Shushanik, tortured by her husband in 544 for refusing to convert to Zoroastrianism. However, none of these structures survived the Mongol invasion of 1235. The name metekhi, which dates back to the 12^th century, literally means “the area around the palace.”

The strategic elevated cliff that overlooks the Mtkvari River

The cliff is connected to the opposite, right embankment of the Mtkvari River, via the reinforced concrete Metekhi Bridge whose construction, in 1951, at the place of the two older bridges, unfortunately destroyed a unique complex of various structures and buildings dating from the 17th to 19th centuries. However, the city’s government recently announced its intention to restore this part of historic Old Tbilisi as it was in the first half of the 20th century. Legend has it also that the Metekhi cliff was a site of the 8^th century martyrdom of Habo, Tbilisi’s patron saint. A small church in his honor is located at the foot of the cliff.

Metekhi Bridge

Resting on top of the hill is the small and extant Metekhi Church of the Assumption and the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang I Gorgaslan (created by sculptor Elguja Amashukeli in 1961). The church, built by the Georgian king St Demetre II Tavdadebuli (the Self-Sacrificing) between 1278–1284, is somewhat an unusual example of a domed Georgian Orthodox church.

The equestrian statue of King Vakhtang I Gorgaslan

Later damaged and restored in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries (mostly employing brick), King Rostom (reign: 1633-1658) fortified the area around the church with a strong citadel and garrisoned it with some 3,000 soldiers. When Russian rule was established in 1801, the church lost its religious purpose and was used as a barracks. In 1819, the citadel was demolished and replaced by a new building which functioned as the infamous jail down to the Soviet era.

One of three projecting apses in the east facade

In 1938, the jail was closed but the church was preserved. However, in the later part of Soviet period, the church was used as a theater. In 1988, the church became functioning again after a popularly supported campaign aiming at the restoration of the church to the Georgian Patriarchate.

Decorative elements concentrated around the windows

The Metekhi church, a cross-cupola church (a style most common throughout the Middle Ages) made with brick and dressed stone, is somewhat anachronistic with its three projecting apses in the east facade and the four freestanding pillars supporting the cupola within.

The four freestanding pillars supporting the cupola within

The mostly smooth facade has decorative elements concentrated around the windows of the eastern apses. Horizontal bands, serving as a unifying element below the gables, run around all four sides. The north portico of the main entrance was built at the same time as the rest of the church.

Iconostasis of the main altar

Inside the church are some interesting icons. To the left of the iconostasis (icon screen) is the tomb of the Christian martyr St Shushanik. Watching the people pray inside this church was a fascinating sight as the worshipers prayed with such incredible passion. Entry was free and photography was allowed. Outside, we had great views of ‘Old Tbilisi. As this interesting church is separated by a bridge from the busy street of Tbilisi, the place is not very noisy and so it can be better appreciated.

View of the city from Metekhi Church

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is also a copy editor for two publishing houses; travel writer; blogger; architectural historian; author; concert. movie and musical reviewer (for www.pep.ph); and a motivational speaker.

As a free-lance travel writer, he has, in the past, contributed articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day and Bluprint. He currently writes for Artplus Magazine and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.

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