Francis and Vicky Dionela, our balikbayan relatives, from Vienna, Austria, were in town and my brother-in-law Mark and I toured them around Intramuros, availing of a calesa to do so. Joining us were Mark’s sons Miguel and Matthew. The first stop in our calesa tour was the San Agustin Church. I have been inside this church a couple of times, notably during the wedding of the former Susan O. Bilog, my wife’s first cousin, to Alfredo Azarcon on January 31, 2001. However, this was my opportunity to explore it in detail. During our visit, the church was again being prepared for another wedding.
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| San Agustin Church |
Named after St. Augustine, Bishop of Hippo, San Agustin Church is the fifth church to be built in the country. The mother church of the Augustinian Order, it is said to be the first mission constructed in Intramuros after the defeat of Rajah Sulayman by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi in 1571. The first two churches were destroyed by fire on December 2, 1574 during invasion of Chinese pirate Limahong and by fire caused by a candle spark on February 28, 1583 during Gov.-Gen. Gonzalo Ronquillo de Penalosa‘s funeral. Again fire damaged the church on the evening of March 30, 1586. It was also damaged during the major earthquakes of 1645, 1754, 1852, June 3, 1863 and July 19, 1880. During World War II, it was the only church in Intramuros (there are 7) to have survive the American bombardment during the liberation of Manila in 1945. Only the roof was destroyed. However, the adjacent monastery was totally destroyed but rebuilt in 1970. It is now the San Agustin Museum. In 1994, the church was declared by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for Baroque Churches.
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| The adjacent San Agustin Museum |
The present 67.15 m. long and 24.93 m. wide church, one of the most typical examples of the colonial Semi-Classical styles, was built between 1587 and 1604 by Juan Macias (said to be a Pampango builder) using hewn adobe stones quarried from Guadalupe, Meycauayan, San Mateo and Binangonan. It has not undergone major change except for minor restorations and its being able to withstand 5 major earthquakes is attributed to its elliptical foundation (like the hull of the ship) and 1.5-m. thick walls.
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| Corridors leading to the San Agustin Museum |
Its design shows Mexican influence. The unassuming Neo-Classical façade has two levels. The first level has 4 pairs of Ionic columns and statued niches filling the walls. The second level has an equal number of Corinthian columns, semicircular arches and square windows. Above it is a triangular pediment with a circular window.
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| TheProto-Baroque molave main door |
The church interior is in the form of a Latin cross. It has 14 side chapels. The original retablo, built in 1671 by Juan de los Santos, was replaced in 1681, coated with gold leaves in 1704, but was defaced in the British invasion in 1762. The courtyard entrance and columned facade are guarded by granite lions (fu dogs) given by Chinese converts.
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| The church interior |
The church originally had two four-storey hexagonal bell towers, but the left one was dismantled after the 1863 earthquake. It has an intricately carved, 24 ft. high and 16 ft. wide Proto-Baroque molavemain door with 4 panels depicting Augustinian symbols, an exquisite Baroque narra pulpit carved in 1627, tombstones on the floor and 12 side chapels (originally 14) dedicated to various saints.
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| The tromp-l’oeil ceiling |
Its vaulted tromp-l’oeil (from the French word meaning “deceives the eye”) ceiling, from which hang 16 crystal chandeliers from Paris (1879-80), was painted by Italian artists Giovanni Alberoni and Caesar Dibella in 1875. Viewing it from below, the designs appear as 3-dimensional.
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| The pulpit |
The magnificent choir loft, the only one of its kind in the country, has 68 beautifully handcrafted molaveseats with ivory encrustations supported by huge elliptical arches. It was ordered by Fr. Miguel Serrano and brought in from Macao by Bishop Hernando Guerrero in 1614. A crucifix here dates from the 17th century. The big lectern has 16th and 17th century cantorals.
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| The main altar |
Its 18th century pipe organ was newly-restored and inaugurated on November 1998. Its classical tones, to which are attached renowned composers Fr. Manuel Arostegui and Pakil (Laguna)-born Marcelo Adonay, echoed again during the 3-day Second International Music Festival hosted by San Agustin Church.
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| A side altar |
The remains of Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, Martin de Goiti, Juan de Salcedo and various early governors and archbishops are buried in a communal vault in a side chapel to the left of the main altar. Their bones were mixed up when the British desecrated their graves when they sacked Manila from October 6-7, 1762. The reclining bronze statue of Legaspi was done by Spanish sculptor Juan Miguel Iriarte. The remains of painter Juan Luna, and statesmen Pedro Paterno and Trinidad Pardo de Tavera are also housed in the church.
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| Another side altar |
San Agustin Church: Cor. Gen. Luna St. and Calle Real, Intramuros, Manila.