Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine (Talisay City, Negros Occidental)

This city’s church was first built with light materials by Augustinian Recollect Fr. Fernando Cuenca and continued and completed by Fr. Miguel Garcia in the first quarter of the 1900s.  Fr. Garcia also built the convent whose ground floor he converted into a clinic. On February 1873, Fr. Ezekiel Moreno came and stayed at this famous rectory cum hospital for hydrotherapeutic treatment.

Church of St. Nicolas of Tolentino

Church of St. Nicolas of Tolentino

However, this church was destroyed as was its second replacement which was built with light materials.  The present structure, the third on the site, was started in 1936 by Fr. Luis Alvarez and completed by Fr. Santiago Vida.  On September 9, 1939, it was blessed by Msgr. Guglielmo Piani, Apostolic Delegate to the Philippines.  The remains of Fr. Fernando Cuenca and Gen Aniceto L. Lacson are kept here.

The church interior

The church interior

The only church left in the perpetual care of the Augustinian Recollects in the Diocese of Bacolod, it has a High Renaissance façade, a projecting portico on the main entrance and is flanked by two domed bell towers with tempiettos at the top of the dome and the base of the tower.

The altar retablo

The altar retablo

How To Get There: Talisay City is located 7.3 kms. (a 10 to 15-min. drive) north of Bacolod City.

Chapel of St. Joseph the Worker (Victorias City, Negros Occidental)

The highlight of our visit to the Victorias Milling Co. (VICMICO) was the Chapel of St. Joseph the Worker, an artistic landmark in the Western Visayas that heralded the birth of Filipino religious art in the country.  This modern and futuristic  church, also called the Ossorio Chapel, was designed by New York architect Anthony Raymond (an apprentice of the great American architect Frank Lloyd Wright) and was built, on the site of the old factory, from 1948 to 1949.  Earthquake-proof, its tower and nave are connected by movable beams.

The Chapel of St. Joseph the Worker

The Chapel of St. Joseph the Worker

This Chapel, built for VMC personnel and their families, was once featured in Life Magazine (as well as Liturgical Art Magazine) as “The Church of the Angry Christ.”  It features mosaic panels formed with bits of broken bottles of soda, milk of magnesia and other colored bottles gathered by parishioners.

The chapel interior

The chapel interior

A symbol of avant garde art, it depicts the angry Christ (God the Son), with a flaming heart and seated on skulls and a serpent (which represents death), on Judgment Day with big eyes and long, outstretched hands (symbolizing His welcoming of the faithful who were called to this continual last judgment), being received by God the Father, represented by 2 huge, red-orange hands.  The Holy Spirit, represented by a descending dove with multi-colored wings, hangs above. All over the place are multi-colored angels.

The controversial mural

The controversial mural

Christ is flanked by brown-skinned Filipinized saints in native attire, standing as witness to Christ’s resurrection – St. Joseph and the St. John the Baptist on the left and Mary and St. John the Evangelist on the right.  The first Filipinism in liturgical art, its singular rendition of brown-skinned Filipinos as Catholic saints has deliberately “Filipinized” traditional Biblical themes, thus giving it a Filipino face.

Triangle with an overseeing eye

Triangle with an overseeing eye

The controversial altar mural, done in a psychedelic splash of primary colors, was also criticized in the 1950s because of its solid, vibrant colors and striking brush strokes.  It also created a stir in conservative church circles for its depiction of Jesus Christ as angry and fierce-looking, instead of a merciful and gentle god. The altar’s beam has a triangle with an overseeing eye, looking at those who are called – the faithful attending the mass.

Skylight above altar

Skylight above altar

Belgian-born American liturgical artist Adelaide “Ade” de Buthune, the Baroness of Schaerbeek, assisted by Romulo Sta. Ana, was commissioned to decorate the baptistery (depicting Christ being baptized as a Filipino), the tabernacle, the mosaic outer walls (particularly the mosaic of Joseph’s wedding to Mary) and murals at the back.

A sculpture of Benjamin VValenciano

A sculpture of Benjamin VValenciano

Local engraver Arcadio Anore executed Bethune’s designs for the brass plates decorating the pulpit, baptistery and other parts of the church. Local artist Benjamin Valenciano, a carpenter from Victorias, did the the crucifix, the Stations of the Cross and the images of Joseph and Mary, garbed as ordinary brown-skinned Filipinos.

Bell tower

Bell tower

Philippine-born American abstract expressionist Alfonso A. Ossorio, the New York-based artist son of Don Miguel Ossorio, did the mural decoration of the altar within 11 months.  Alfonso studied Fine Arts at Harvard University (Cambridge, Massachussets, U.S.A.) and continued his studies at the Rhode Island School of Design. Among his friends were the famous abstract expressionist artists Jackson Pollock and Clyfford Still.

The Last Supper

The Last Supper

As painting medium, Alfonso used ethyl silicate 40, recommended to him by Ralph Mayer, a paint chemist, as appropriate for the tropics as it fghts humidity and withstands the dampness. Up to now, the murals have not been retouched and their bright colors still looks magnificent.

The Virgin Mary with the Holy Spirit

The Virgin Mary with the Holy Spirit

The front facade of the church has a mural showing three scenes from the life of St. Joseph – the marriage to Mary, the workshop at Nazareth, and the death of Joseph. There;s also the comic-like painting outside depicting “The Prodigal Son” (believed to be a pioneering work on the comics art in the Philippines) while the back of the church depicts “The Last Supper” and “The Virgin Mary with the Holy Spirit.”

The workshop at Nazareth

The workshop at Nazareth

Outside the church is a Carabao Sundial, built in December 1975 by Senior Machine Shop students of Don Bosco Institute, led by Hezekiah B. Katalbas and Vicente Gonzaga, with the assistance of VMC management.  Its horn is exaggerated to become the dial face.

The Three Kings

The Three Kings

As it features the works of world famous artists, this chapel should be protected and preserved for other generations to appreciate and, to ensure its preservation, it should be declared as a National Heritage Site or National Cultural Treasure.

The Carabao Sundial

The Carabao Sundial

Church of St. Joseph the Worker: Victorias Milling Co. (VICMICO), Victorias City, Negros Occidental.

How to Get There: Victorias City is located 34 kms. (a 45-min. bus or jeepney drive) northeast of Bacolod City.  Upon reaching the intersection of the National Highway and the road leading to VMC, hire a tricycle that goes straight to the church.

Chapel of the Cartwheels (Manapla, Negros Occidental)

From the mansion, Mark next drove us a short distance, across the field behind the Gaston Mansion, to the hacienda’s unique chapel.  Built during the hacienda days of the 1960s, it is probably the most native-looking of all Philippine churches.

Chapel of the Cartwheels

Chapel of the Cartwheels

Built by secular priest Msgr. Guillermo “Gigi” Gaston for the farm’s workers, its farming motif is reflected in its facade made mainly from various farm implements including plows, mortar (candle holders) and pestles (a holy water container), all indigenous to Hacienda Rosalia, as well as margaha sand and rocks from the nearby seashore.  The chapel’s benches were each made with slabs of hardwood by families who attended the mass.

The chapel's interior

The chapel’s interior

Its tall roof is a stylized wooden salakot (headgear) and the walls are made of artistically-linked discarded carabao cartwheels, an idea thought of by Msgr. Gaston who knew that the farm workers and their families could easily relate to this simple but widely used object in the farms where they worked.

The chapel's altar

The chapel’s altar

For him, the cartwheel also symbolizes the Holy Trinity with God the Father as the center of the wheel; Jesus Christ as the spokes surrounding it, leading the people towards God; and the the Holy Spirit as the outer rim  who ensures that the people don’t get lost on their way towards the center.

Seating area for the priest and 2 sacristans

Seating area for the priest and 2 sacristans

A huge, centuries-old boulder serves as the altar and the wall behind it is made of native stone and punctured by 3 cartwheel-shaped stained glass windows (representing God the Father, God the Son and God the Holy Spirit) with broken pieces of glass bottles (wine, milk and soda) in different colors, giving the altar a more creative and lively look. Boulders were also used as the podium top and seats for the sacristans.

Stained glass window

Stained glass window

The sliding doors feature mats of 128 panels portraying Biblical events and the usual Christ on the cross is modified by a farmer crucified on a cartwheel. Masses,  attended by hacienda farm workers and their families, are still being held in the chapel. The chapel, also open to guests and tourists who visit the town, is also a popular venue for weddings.

Christ on a crucified on a cartwheel

Christ crucified on a cartwheel

Chapel of the Cartwheels: Hacienda Rosalia, Manapla, Negros Occidental.

How to Get There: Manapla is located 44.7 kms. (a 1-hour drive) northeast of Bacolod City.

The Gaston Mansion (Manapla, Negros Occidental)

Jandy and I arrived at the Manapla Municipal Hall by 10:30 AM.  Here, we met up with town councilor Marcos “Mark” L. Escalante, my nephew and son of town mayor Lourdes Socorro “Uding” L. Escalante, my first cousin, who was at the U.S. at that time. Mark drove us to Hacienda Rosalia, home of the Gaston Mansion and the Chapel of the Cartwheels, two of Manapla’s tourist attractions.

The Gaston Mansion

The Gaston Mansion

The mansion's lush garden

The mansion’s lush garden

We first stopped over at the Gaston Mansion.  Its resident and current owner, the secular priest Msgr. Guillermo “Gigi” Gaston, wasn’t around, being at Bacolod at the time of our visit, but the caretaker allowed us to look around the living and dining areas of the mansion.  Incidentally, the mansion was featured in Peque Galalga’s 1982 multi-awarded film Oro Plata Mata, where it was referred to as Hacienda Lorenzo.

The ground floor

The ground floor

Stairway to second floor

Stairway to second floor

This stately and elegant, 2-storey mansion, the  ancestral home of Jose Gaston, one of the sons of Yves Leopold Germain Gaston, and his wife Consuelo Ascona, was built in the 1930s.  They had 8 children.  It is set in lush, verdant and gorgeous garden of flowers, shrubs, trees, potted palms and herbs. Within the grounds are a now-disused swimming pool (used as hiding place during World War II), a Victorian fountain, a pond and a time-worn shoe house (which was used before as a playground).

Dining Area

Dining Area

Chess table

Chess table

Its second floor dining room, opening into a breezy azotea overlooking the garden, had a wooden floor, a high ceiling and large windows.  What truly amazed me was its antique, 24-seater wooden table.  All around it are cabinets filled with crystal stemware, antique silverware and fine china.  Buffet lunches, served by servants of the Gaston family, are also offered for paying guests.

China cabinet

China cabinet

Antique telephone

Antique telephone

Gaston Mansion: Hacienda Rosalia, Manapla, Negros Occidental.

How to Get There: Manapla is located 44.7 kms. (a 1-hour drive) northeast of Bacolod City.