Cathedral Square (Vancouver, Canada)

Posted on 18 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Facing the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary, Cathedral Square is a public plaza in downtown Vancouver filled with magnolias and ginkgo trees. It was designed by Bruno Freschi and completed in 1986, just in time for the World’s Fair, as a component of a major BC Hydro underground substation on the site which supplies power to the downtown core.

Check out “Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary”

Cathedral Square

Just north of its reflecting pool and fountain are six pillars that support a canopy structure (which previously had protective glass for inclement weather protection, but it was removed due to upkeep costs) over a paved, terraced area with seating.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary as seen from the square

In May 2021, the under-utilized plaza had a makeover that helped activate the space into a site of renewal and celebration, becoming a re-energized public space that will celebrate the visual culture of the three local nations – Musqueam, Squamish and Tsleil-Waututh.

The reflecting pool

The square’s six massive concrete cylinder columns at the northeast corner of the intersection of Dunsmuir Street and Richards Street, just across from the cathedral, were used as a blank canvas for a First Nations-themed mural called “Blanketing the City IV,” the fourth in a series of first large-scale public art collaboration between weaving artists. Other past works were applied to the two pillars of the Granville Street Bridge, below Granville Island, and the southern facade of the former Biltmore Hotel at 395 Kingsway, now used as supportive housing.

Mural of “Blanketing the City IV”

The design of the installation, organized by the Downtown Vancouver Business Improvement Association and the Vancouver Mural Festival, is a collaboration between Musqueam artist Debra Sparrow (involved in the revival of xʷməθkʷəy̓əm or Musqueam weaving for 25+ years), Squamish chief and accomplished weaver (co-founder of the L’hen Awtxw Weaving House) and teacher Janice George (Sḵwxwú7mesh) and the Tsleil-Waututh’s Angela George (səlilwətaɬ) who has dedicated her career to the betterment of First Nations people and communities.

Cathedral Square: 566 Richards St, Vancouver, BC V6B 1X4.

Waterfront Station (Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada)

Posted on 17 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Waterfront Station

The stunningly grand and majestic, 6-storey, 146-m. (480-ft.) long Waterfront Station (Station Code: WF), located on Burrard Inlet, is a major intermodal public transportation facility and the main transit terminus in Vancouver. It is within walking distance or the vicinity of Vancouver’s historical Gastown district, Canada Place, Vancouver Convention Centre, Harbour Centre, Sinclair Centre, the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre float plane terminal (approximately two blocks west of Canada Place), the heliport operated by Helijet, (adjacent to the SeaBus concourse, therefore allowing passengers to connect to Waterfront Station‘s main terminal building) and the downtown campuses for Simon Fraser University and the British Columbia Institute of Technology.

The row of Ionic columns

The current Neo-Classical-style main station building, designed by Barott, Blackader and Webster (a Montreal architecture firm) and built by Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), is CPR’s third station. It replaced a smaller station, built in the 1890s and previously located at the foot of Granville, one block west, built in chateau-like “Railway Gothic” style like the CPR’s many railway hotels. Its symmetrical red-brick facade is dominated by a row of smooth, white limestone Ionic order columns which are repeated in the grand interior hall, flanking the perimeter of the space.

The Neo-Classical-style facade

The main hall features two large clocks facing each other high on the east and west walls while paintings depicting various scenic Canadian landscapes, by Adelaide Langford (wife of a CPR executive), line the walls above the columns.

One of two large clocks at the Main Hall

Rouge Kitchen & Wet Bar, on the street level, occupies the east wing. Other restaurants located within the station include A&W, Jugo Juice, La Prep, Subway, Starbucks and SKK Italy. On the upper floors, some rooms are occupied by business offices.

Rouge Kitchen & Wet Bar

Subway and Jugo Juice

The bronze statue of Angel of Victory, one of an originally identical trio (the other two angels are in Winnepeg and Montreal), at the front of the extreme east end of the building, was created by Couer de Lion MacCarthy (1881-1979) and was installed in 1921.

Angel of Victory (Couer de Lion MacCarthy)

A war memorial honoring CPR employees who were killed during World War I, it depicts an angel carrying a dead soldier to heaven. At one time, she was holding s small wreath in her raised hand but, at some point, the wreath was broken and now she holds just a few leaves in her hand. After World War II, the writing on the plaque at the base of the statue was added.

Historical Plaque

Here’s the historical timeline of the station:

On May 1912, the construction of Waterfront Station began
On August 1, 1914, right at the start of World War I, the station was opened as the Pacific terminus for the CPR’s transcontinental passenger trains to Montreal, Quebec and Toronto, Ontario. Canadian soldiers, on their way to the war, departed on this depot.
In 1916, the paintings lining the walls above the columns were completed.
On May 29, 1939, residents welcomed King George VI and Queen Elizabeth here (British Columbia’s first visit by a reigning monarch)
In 1977, Waterfront Station‘s transformation into a public intermodal transit facility began.
In 1977, SeaBus began operating out of a purpose-built floating pier that was connected to the main terminal building via an overhead walkway above the CPR tracks.
In 1978, when Via Rail took over the passenger operations of the CPR and the Canadian National Railway, it continued using both railways’ stations in Vancouver
In 1979, Via Rail ceased using this CPR station when it consolidated its Vancouver operations at Pacific Central Station, the CN station near False Creek.
On October 27, 1979, the last scheduled Via Rail passenger train to use Waterfront Station departed, with 200 passengers (plus 50 train aficionados who tagged along to Mission), for Montreal, 15 mins. late.
In the early 1980s, the CPR’s passenger platform and some of its tracks were torn up to make way for the guideway of the original SkyTrain line (Expo Line).
On December 11, 1985, the Expo Line was opened.
During Expo 86, SkyTrain operated special shuttle trains between Waterfront Station and Stadium–Chinatown Station(then named Stadium station), connecting the Canadian Pavilion at Canada Place to the main Expo site along False Creek.
In the early 1990s, Royal SeaLink Express, a private ferry company, ran passenger ferries from a new dock on the west side of the SeaBus terminal to Victoria and Nanaimo but ultimately folded.
In 1995, platforms were built adjacent to the SkyTrain station for the West Coast Express, which uses the existing CPR tracks. The platforms for the West Coast Express were built in the same location as the old CPR platforms.
In 2002, Millennium Line trains began to share tracks with the Expo Line at Waterfront Station.
In 2003, HarbourLynx began operating out of Royal Sealink’s old facility at the SeaBus terminal.
In 2006, following major engine problems with their only vessel, HarbourLynx folded as well.
In late 2016, an Expo Line branch to Production Way–University station was created in replacement of the Millennium Line service between VCC–Clark and Waterfront Station.
In 2009, the Canada Line opened
In 2018, as most Canada Line stations were built with only up escalators initially, TransLink announced that Waterfront Station‘s Canada Line platforms, as well as two other stations on the line located within Downtown Vancouver, would receive an accessibility upgrade which includes additional escalators.
In early 2019, construction began on the additional escalators
In December 2019, the installation of additional escalators was completed.
In 2020, work on replacing the escalators connecting to the Expo Line was started by TransLink.
For three weeks in June 2020, access to the Expo Line from Cordova Street was closed, forcing passengers to access the Expo Line from the Howe Street entrance. Because the construction blocked access to the elevators to the Expo Line platforms, a temporary shuttle bus service between the SeaBus terminal, the main concourse area, and Burrard Station was instated.

Ionic columns inside the main hall

Waterfront Station was one of the first stations to receive TransLink’s “T” signage (denoting a transit station). Originally installed in the downtown core of Vancouver, this signage helped visitors during the 2010 Olympics as it made transit hubs easier to identify.

Waterfront Station serves as a common terminus point for both the Expo Line (through Vancouver to Northeast/South Burnaby, New Westminster and Surrey) and the Canada Line (through Vancouver to central Richmond and Vancouver International Airport). They have separate platforms which are accessible via the main station building, but require leaving the fare paid zone when transferring between other modes.

The SeaBus passenger ferry, to Lonsdale Quay in North Vancouver, stops on the Vancouver side at Waterfront Station, near the Vancouver Convention Centre. Additionally, Waterfront Station provides West Coast Express commuter rail (Port Moody, Coquitlam, Port Coquitlam, Pitt Meadows, Maple Ridge and Mission) a connection to the SeaBus passenger ferry. The station is also accessible to various local, suburban, and express bus services provided by TransLink.

Escalator to Expo Line

Expo Line

Waterfront Station: 601 West Cordova St. (between Granville and Seymour Sts.), Downtown Vancouver, British Columbia V6B 1G1, Canada. The station has also two street-level entrances – Howe Street to the west (for direct access to the Expo Line) and Granville Street to the south (for direct access to the Canada Line). Coordinates: 49°17′09″N 123°06′42″W

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary (Vancouver)

Posted on 17 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary

Five days after our arrival in Vancouver, Grace, Jandy, Kyle and I had our first mass at the late 19th-century, 700-pax Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary.

Grace and Kyle making their way into the cathedral

Commonly known as Holy Rosary Cathedral, serves as the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Vancouver. Located in the downtown area of the city, it is listed on the Vancouver Heritage Register and is a legally protected building.

The cathedral’s French Gothic Revival style facade

Designed by architects Thomas Ennor Julian and H.J. Williams in the classic cruciform form (with narthex, nave, transepts and an apsidal chancel), it was constructed under the charge of R. P. Forshaw and Company and the church was completed in just 491 days. At the time it was finished, the building was praised as “the finest piece of architecture west of Toronto and north of San Francisco.”

The right side of the cathedral

The left side of the cathedral

Here’s the historical timeline of the cathedral:

In June 1885, the parish was established with Father Patrick Fay, the chaplain to Canadian Pacific Railway(CPR) workers, chosen as pastor.
In 1886, construction began for a wooden church
In 1888, the wooden church was completed the following year and blessed.
In 1890, the church was enlarged and a bell tower was added.
On July 16, 1899, the cornerstone for the new church was laid by Archbishop Adélard Langevin of Saint Boniface.
In the autumn of 1900, the cathedral’s pipe organ was inaugurated.
On October 21, 1900, the church’s seven bells were blessed
On December 8, 1900, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, the new Church of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary was opened and was blessed the day after by Archbishop Alexander Christie of Portland, Oregon.
In 1906, eight bells were reinstalled in the cathedral
In 1911, on Dominion Day, the church’s bells were rung, the first peal ever to be rung in Canada .
In 1916, the church was elevated to the status of a cathedral.
In February 1922, a funeral requiem mass was said at the cathedral for beloved local lifeguard and swim instructor Joe Fortes. The cathedral filled to capacity, with thousands of others braving the rain and cold weather to view the funeral procession on the streets of Vancouver.
In 1927, the Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate (OMI), which administered the parish since 1893, left after difficulties arose from the mortgage agreement that had helped pay for the construction of the cathedral. This was coupled with the “growing manpower shortage” caused by a declining number of members joining the order.
In late 1932, the “tin scales” that covered spire of the taller steeple were cleaned and repaired, and the cross atop of it was repainted.
In 1936, it hosted an archdiocesan-level Eucharistic Congress, the first congress ever to be celebrated in Western Canada.
In 1939, a funeral requiem mass was said at the cathedral for Pope Pius XI.
On October 7, 1952, the feast of Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary, a gunman entered the church and fired a round from his rifle at the altar. No one was hurt and he was arrested shortly after.
In April 1959, a minor tilt in the bell tower of the cathedral was detected probably due to the drilling and blasting of a nearby tunnel.
On October 3, 1953, the rite of consecration as a cathedral, officiated by the Archbishop of Vancouver William M. Duke, was held. The subsequent solemn pontifical Mass was celebrated by Michael Harrington, the Bishop of Kamloops. Approximately 35 bishops from across Canada and the United States attended the event, which coincided with Duke’s golden and silver jubilees of his priestly ordination and consecration as a bishop, respectively.
In 1961, a funeral requiem mass was said at the cathedral for former Vancouver police commissioner William Cameron Murphy.
In the 1960s, after the Second Vatican Council, the reordering of the sanctuary took place.
In 1967, an interfaith requiem was held at the cathedral for former Governor General of Canada Georges Vanier.
In September 1981, a funeral requiem mass was said at the cathedral for internationally-acclaimed actor Chief Dan George of the Tsleil-Waututh
On September 19, 1984, Pope John Paul II visited the church as part of his pastoral visit to Canada. Refurbishing took place prior to his visit.
From 1995 to 1997, the cathedral was completely re-roofed, with zinc being utilized on the roof to resemble slate.
In 1999, the organ was dismantled and transported to Casavant Frères in Saint-Hyacinthe, Quebec for a two-year restoration.
In Easter of 2000, the rehabilitated pipe organ was blessed. That same year, an organ concert series was hosted at the cathedral for the first time.
In late September 2001, the cathedral became the first place in Canada to host the relics of Saint Thérèse of Lisieux during her reliquary’s three-month-long tour of the country.
In December 2002, some of the carpeting was removed and replaced with Italian ceramic tiles.
From 2004 to 2006, the inside of the church was repainted.
On April 1, 2005, a funeral requiem mass was said at the cathedral for Pope John Paul II.
On March 23, 2008, during an Easter Sunday Mass at the cathedral, First Nations protesters disrupted the mass by demonstrating on the outside steps. They ordered the Church to “get off native land” and demanded that they disclose the burial locations of children who died in residential schools.
On February 12, 2010, the cathedral’s bells were rung during the opening of the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver
On October 30, 2011, a splinter group from the Occupy Vancouver movement marched to the cathedral from the Vancouver Art Gallery, attempting to enter the cathedral and occupy it but were thwarted by Vancouver police officers and Knights of Columbus.
In the spring of 2017, the copy of the bronze sculpture Homeless Jesus by Canadian artist Timothy Schmalz was installed in front of the cathedral.
In 2018, new light fixtures, pews and an upgraded sound system were added.
On March 22, 2020, as a result of the Archdiocese suspending all public masses starting from March 21 onwards, in response to the 2019–20 coronavirus pandemic, Sunday Mass was celebrated without a congregation for the first time in the cathedral’s history.
In June 2020, public masses at the cathedral resumed with capacity reduced to 50 people per Mass in order to adhere to the physical distancing requirements set out by the provincial health authorities.

The 49 m. (161 ft.) long, 32 m. (104 ft.) wide (across the transepts) and 19 m. (62 ft.) high (from floor to ceiling) cathedral, built in the French Gothic revival style, has been described as resembling the medieval Chartres Cathedral in France. Cruciform, in the shape of the Latin cross, it is 19 m. (62 ft.) across the nave and the aisles.

The taller bell tower

Its foundations were made of granite while its exterior walls were built from sandstone originating from Gabriola Island. The cathedral’s “most prominent visual feature” is its two asymmetric bell towers. The taller, 66 m. (217 ft.) high steeple was originally designed to have flying buttresses at the bottom.

The cathedral interior looking towards the main altar

The cathedral interior looking towards the choir loft

The nave arcades at the interior which, in turn support a Gothic tunnel vault, are supported by Norman columns made from highly polished, red Scagliola marble. Non-structural ribs decorate the vault, with simple molding accenting the intermediate ribs.

Left side aisle

Right side aisle

The cathedra, situated at the center of the sanctuary, is surrounded by a Gothic-style, oak altar-piece, with richly detailed gold foliage and angels set in relief, and two towers of reredos decked with delicately carved angels carrying torches, thuribles and sacred books.

Left transept

Right transept

The cathedral originally had seven bells (representing the sacraments) cast at the Fonderie Paccard in Annecy-le-Vieux, Savoy, France. However, when they were found to be out of tune, they were sent to a foundry near Bristol where eight bells were made to complete an entire octave when rung.

Baptismal Font

Two of the14 Stations of the Cross

Statue of the Pieta

Operating on change ringing, they are one of the few peal of bells hung in the English style found in North America, and one of three in British Columbia (the others are located at Westminster Abbey in Mission and Victoria‘s Christ Church Cathedral).

Grace and Kyle

The cathedral’s pipe organ, manufactured by the Karn–Warren Organ Company in Woodstock, Ontario, is the “oldest romantic-style organ” in the province “remaining in its original location.” An organ concert is held at the cathedral annually since 2000. One of the most beautiful organs in the West Coast, it has three manuals, 4 divisions, 42 stops, 51 ranks and 2,899 pipes.

The cathedral’s pipe organ

Of the current 21 stained glass windows (documented by the Institute for Stained Glass in Canada) at the cathedral, the oldest is The Church Triumphant with the Risen Christ among Saints and Martyrs, on the east wall of the sanctuary, next to the shrine of the Blessed Virgin.

Stained glass depicting The Church Triumphant with the Risen Christ among Saints and Martyrs

The most renowned ones are the five windows made by Canadian artist Guido Nincheri whose work can be found in over 60 churches in North America.

Stained glass depicting Jesus with the Children (Guido Nincheri)

They depict Our Lady of the Holy Rosary, on the north side of the west transept; the Baptism of Our Lord (completed in January 1954), Jesus Healing the Sick, Jesus with the Children and the Assumption (completed and shipped out of the Nincheri studios in November 1953 and installed later that year). Started in 1941, it would take 13 years for the work on the stained glass to be completed.

Stained glass depicting The Assumption (Guido Nincheri)

The stained glass depicting Our Lady of the Holy Rosary was featured on Canada Post‘s annual Christmas stamp in 1997.

Stained glass depicting Our Lady of the Holy Rosary (Guido Nincheri)

In front of the cathedral is a copy of the bronze sculpture Homeless Jesus by Canadian artist Timothy Schmalz. Showing a life-size statue of a man with a long overcoat lying on a park bench, his face is hidden underneath a hood and his bare feet with stigmata.

The author beside the copy of the bronze sculpture of the Homeless Jesus by Candian artist Timothy Schmalz

According to Stanley Galvon (the rector at the time), the statue is intended to be “a catalyst to make people think about” the city’s homelessness crisis.

Jandy

Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of the Holy Rosary: 646 Richards cor. Dunsmuir St., Vancouver, British Columbia V6B 3A3. Tel: (604) 682-6774. Fax: (604) 331-8406. E-mail: office@vancouvercathedral.org. Website: www.holyrosarycathedral.org. Sunday mass schedule: 8 AM, 9:30 AM, 11 AM, 12:30 PM, 5 PM.

How to Get There: by Metro, take the Expo Line to Granville Station or the Canada Line to Waterfront Station. Both are a 5 minute walk away.

Julio’s Bed and Breakfast (Loay, Bohol)

Posted on 2 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Julio’s Bed and Breakfast

Our final stop in our Bohol culinary tour was at Julio’s Bed and Breakfast, a stone’s throw away from an exquisite shoreline, pristine waters and calming sunset view of Loay Bay.

Loay Bay

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by its eponymous proprietor, Mr. Pio Araneta and his wife Dra. Grace. The restaurant here is the highlight of our visit.

Mr. Pio Araneta explaining how a pasgong (traditional bamboo trap) works

At the restaurant’s kitchen, we first experienced how the popular siakoy (also spelled as syakoy, siyakoy and shakoy) snack, also known as lubid-lubid (“little rope”), was made.

Siakoy making demonstration

This long, braided, soft, puffy and airy pastry, with a similar taste to the sugary doughnuts sold on streetside bakeries, is traditionally made with flour, sugar, salt, and yeast and deep-fried and then sprinkled with white sugar.

Ready-to-eat, deep-fried siakoy

It was best paired with tableya sikwate, native hot chocolate made using the traditional batirol (wooden whisk), and latik (coconut caramel).

Siakoy is best paired with sikwate (hot native chocolate drink)

Pio then demonstrated how generations of locals in the area prepared nilubihang or ginataang kagang (land crab with niyog), an heirloom recipe which incorporated the fat of native land crabs (kagang) with fresh coconut meat and water plus herbs, vegetables and spices.

Nilubihang kagang ingredients

Pio cooking nilubihang kagang

While waiting for the kagang to cook, Ms. Lily Busano (president of the Albur Calamay Makers Association) showed us how kalamay, Bohol’s most popular pasalubong, was prepared and cooked.

Ms. Lily Busano (president of the Albur Calamay Makers Association) with finishe kalamay products

This sticky, sweet delicacy is made with grated coconut, coconut milk, brown sugar, muscovado sugar, peanuts and pilit (ground glutinous rice).

The thick sugary mix being stirred continuously in a giant wok

To create the smooth, sticky consistency, the thick sugary mix was stirred continuously in a giant wok for up to 8 hours. Upon cooling, the kalamay is then transferred, preserved and sold in a type of packaging is known as kalamay-hati, inside signature halved smooth mesocarp of coconuts, locally known as bagul or paya which are then sealed shut with a characteristic red papel de japon (crepe paper).

It can be eaten on its own or turned into a spread for bread or siakoy. The sikwate, siakoy and kalamay are perfect for breakfast, merienda and dessert.

Kagang (Land Crab)

Before we ate the nilubihang kagang, Pio checked out the pasgong, traditional handmade bamboo traps used for catching kagang. The mouths of the traps were previously poised outside the crab holes and left overnight.

Pasgong, a traditional bamboo trap used to trap kagang

Sure enough, two of the traps we observed had crabs caught inside them. There’s no need for bait for this quick and efficient process but each trap could fit only one crab.

Media colleagues try their hand at weaving pouches for puso (hanging rice)

Nilubihang Kagang

While waiting, cocktails were also served. Others also tried their hand in weaving a pouch of palm leaves for puso or tamu (hanging rice). Soon, the nilubihang kagang was done and this was eaten with puso and pork barbecue. Dessert consisted of turon (banana spring rolls).

Media group (L-R): the author, Mr. John Paul Dacuycuy, Mr. Nickie Wang (Entertainment and Lifestyle Editor, Manila Standard), Mr. Anton Delos Reyes (Writer, Malaya Business Insight). Ms. Raye Sanchez (Lifestyle and Entertainment Writer, Daily Tribune), Ms. Christine Alpad (Senior Reporter, Manila Times Lifestyle and Entertainment Desk), Mr. Alvin Alcantara (www.thediarist.ph), Ms. Lourdes Sultan (Travel Village Tours and Travel), Mr. Mario Alvaro Limos (Features Editor, Esquire Philippines), Ms. Roxanne M. Gochuico (Corporate Social Responsibility Manager, Cebu Pacific), Mr. Pete Dacuycuy (Publicist) and Mr. Pio Araneta

Julio’s Bead and Breakfast: Del Carmen St., Villalimpia 303, Loay. Mobile number: (0922) 515-7594.

Bohol Provincial Tourism Office: G/F, New Provincial Capitol Bldg., C. Marapao St, Tagbilaran City, 6300. Tel: (038) 411 3666. Email: inquire@boholtourismph.com. Website: www.bohol.ph.

Department of Tourism Regional Office VII: G/F, L.D.M Building, Legaspi St, Cebu City, 6000 Cebu. Tel: (032) 254 6650 and(032) 254 2811. E-mail: dotregion7@gmail.com. Website: dot7@tourism.gov.ph.

Bluewater Panglao Resort: Bluewater Rd, Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol. Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697. Mobile numbers: (0998) 843-0262, (0998) 964-1868 (Ms. Margie Munsayac – VP-Sales and Marketing), (0998) 962-8277 (Ms. Louee Garcia), (0919) 912-9663 (Mr. Manuel Sandagaon) and (0908) 890-9013 (Ms. Kate Biol). Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph, resrvations.panglao@bluwater.com.ph, margie.munsayac@bluewater.com.ph, louee.garcia@bluewater.com.ph, manuel.sandagon@bluewater.com.ph and kate.biol@bluwater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph. Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila. Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348. Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Cebu Pacific Air currently flies seven times daily from Manila and thrice weekly from Davao City (every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday) to Bohol’s Panglao International Airport. Visist www.cebupacificair.com to learn about their latest offerings, safety protocols and travel reminders.

Asinan ni Tan Inong (Alburquerue, Bohol)

Posted on 2 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Asinan ni Tan Inong

From Loboc, we proceeded to Alburquerque (Albur for short) where we visited a remote village to see how the legendary asín tibuok (literally meaning “unbroken salt” or “whole salt” in the Cebuano language of the Boholano people), a rare Filipino artisanal sea salt from Bohol, is made at the Asinan ni Tan Inong.

Made by filtering seawater through ashes, it is usually consumed by being traditionally dusted lightly over plain hot rice, with a few drops of oil, and eaten as is, it is also used to season sinangag (traditional fried rice). Asín tibuok could be grounded and used like regular table salt or chunks can also be broken off and dipped into stews and dishes. A variant of the salt, also known as túltul (meaning “lump”) in Guimaras or dúkdok (meaning “pounded” or “pulverized”) in Capiz, is made similarly to asín tibuok but is boiled with gatâ (coconut milk).

Coconut husks in special pits filled with sea water during the tides

Due to the time-consuming traditional methods of producing salt and the hard work that go with its manufacture, the passing of the salt iodization (ASIN) law (Republic Act No. 8172) in 1995, as well as competition with modern and cheap imported salts prevalent today in the Philippines, the tradition of making asín tibuok and túltul is nearly extinct as it placed further stress on local artisanal salt-makers, forcing many to give up the industry altogether. Today, only a few families make asín tibuok and túltul and, due to their rarity, are considerably more expensive than regular salt.

Coconut husks slowly being burned in a pile

Commonly sold for the tourist trade (for their novelty) as well as to gourmet restaurants that feature Filipino cuisine, the demand for asín tibuok and túltul is usually high but the supply simply cannot keep up. Offering an equally special flavor that undoubtedly makes it one of the rarest kinds of salt in the world, asín tibuok is now listed in the Ark of Taste international catalogue of endangered heritage foods by the Slow Food movement.

The funnel-shaped bamboo filtering device

At the Asinan ni Tan Inong, the 72 year old Nestor Manongas explained the unique and meticulous process in the manufacture of asin tibuok. The Manongas family is the only one family still upholding this tradition in Poblacion, preserving a part of their history that makes use of nature’s best without harming it.

Sea water storage tanks. Sea water is poured into the gasang to leach out the salt from the ashes

Firstly, for several months, coconut husks are left to soak in special pits continually filled with seawater during the tides so that they can absorb the natural sea minerals along the coastline, giving us an idea of how long it takes just to acquire the natural minerals required for asin tibuok’s unique taste which gives off a unique smoky and salty flavor which is tastier and sharper than the kinds of salt you would find in grocery.

The non-iodized salt ready to be packed

Next, the coconut husks are then chopped into small pieces and sun-dried for at least 2 to 3 days. After that, for about a week, these husks are slowly burned in a pile, strictly using native hardwoods such as ipil-ipil, mahogany and duhat, until reduced completely to an activated charcoal (called gasang) which are gathered into a funnel-shaped bamboo filtering device. Seawater is poured into the gasang, allowing the water to leach out the salt from the ashes. The brine or filtered seawater (known as tasik) is then collected into a hollowed out coconut trunk beneath the funnels. This coconut charcoal combination provides the unique aroma of asin tibuok.

Dinosaur-shaped clay pots

The tasik is poured into special dinosaur egg-shaped clay pots and hung in walls in a special furnace where it is boiled for a few hours. Once some evaporate, the pots are continually replenished with more tasik. As both the heat and salt must not be left alone, this final process requires focus and dedication. As more water evaporates, the sea salt gets harder and the process continues until the clay pot gets filled with hard rock salt.

Mr. Nestor Manongas with the finished product

Eventually, the pots will crack, revealing the solidified pinkish mass of salt which is initially very hot. After following this heating process all day, it then requires a whole evening before it will be cool enough to be handled. The finished product is a salt orb in various shades of white, grey and brown and weighing roughly a kilo. As they are sold along with the broken domed pots, they are given them the nickname, in international markets, “the dinosaur egg” due to their appearance. Only 120 pieces of asin tibuok’ are made per batch and these are usually sold out for weeks.

The packaged product

Asinan ni Tan Inong: Brgy. Eastern Poblacion, Alburquerque 6301, Bohol. Mobile number: (0907) 168-0961. Open Mondays-Saturdays, 8 AM to 5 PM.

Fox & Firefly Cottages (Loboc, Bohol)

Posted on 2 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Fox and Firefly Cottages

Lunch during our Bohol Food Trip was to be at Fox & Firefly Cottages, a bed and breakfast place located in the forest areas of Loboc. Upon arrival, we were welcomed with organic, homemade kombucha, an effervescent, sweetened black or green tea commonly consumed for its purported health benefits.

Also on hand to welcome us was owner Ms. Joan Christine Soupart, one-half of the husband-and-wife team (the other is avid Belgian paddle boarder Frederic “Fred” Soupart) behind this quaint inn and its SUP Tours Philippines Sports Center. Joan is a registered Sivananda yoga teacher and ASI SUP yoga flow (Vinyasa) instructor.

Fred and Joan fell in love with the riverside town of Loboc, seeing it as an ideal place to exercise their passion for sports and adventure as well as to live with nature. They built a three-bungalow inn (initially called Paddle’s Up Guesthouse) beside the ever flowing Loboc River in 2013.

Front Desk

Here, they could operate stand-up paddling (SUP) tours. Now it is a favorite destination for adventure seekers, backpackers and nature lovers. According to Joan, the place was renamed (in 2014) after their beloved Pomeranian-Japanese Spitz dog Fox as well as the occasional firefly that flutter around amid the trees along the Loboc River at night.

Fox and Fable Restaurant (second floor)

Lunch was served at their in-house Fox and Fables (also named after their dog Fables) Restaurant along the banks of the Loboc River.

Vegan fare at Fox and Fables Restaurant

Here, they serve traditional, Western, vegetarian and vegan meals anytime of the day. We feasted on healthy meals and vegan dishes such as monggo soup, avocado salad, somtom (Thai papaya salad), talong salad, G-chili shrimps, maranding manok (dry coconut chicken curry), chicken halang-halang soup (a Visayan version of tinola with coconut leaves and moringa leaves) and their vegan kare-kare which was paired with a bagoong alternative made from locally sourced mushrooms.

Author (foreground) at Fox and Fables Restaurant

They also offer specialty beverages such as organic drinks and shakes, cocktails, wines and authentic Belgian beer.

The place also suffered during the onslaught of Typhoon Odette (international name: Rai) and, after repairs and renovation, reopened again on May 1, 2022.

We checked out one of the simply furnished, clean and comfortable cottages, one of 11, of this riverside accommodation facing a rice field.

Suite

Designed in the Filipino traditional architecture, with a modern but cozy feel, it featured a queen-size bed, a spacious patio with hammock, bamboo furnishings, fan (the cool, riverside breeze passes through naturally), mosquito nets and a private, nature-inspired outdoor bathroom.

Outdoor bathroom

Other facilities include a common lounge. They offer mountain biking tours and stand-up paddleboard activities. You may also practice yoga, join a class or meditate at their Santosha Yoga Shala.

Paddle boards for rent

Mountain bikes for rent

The inn also exhibit and sell artworks, inspired by nature and Boholano surroundings, by young Boholano artists. Proceeds from the sale go to a village livelihood program called “Build a Boat, Build a Barangay.”

Artwork of Boholano artists for sale along the hallway

Fox and Firefly Cottages: Barangay Rd., Brgy. Valladolid, Loboc 6316. Tel: (038) 537-9011. Mobile number: (0917) 713-7577, (0947) 893-3022 and (0917) 703-9979. E-mail: info@suptoursphilippines.com. Website: www.foxandthefireflycottages.com and www.suptoursphilippines.com.

Bohol Provincial Tourism Office: G/F, New Provincial Capitol Bldg., C. Marapao St, Tagbilaran City, 6300. Tel: (038) 411 3666. Email: inquire@boholtourismph.com. Website: www.bohol.ph.

Green Thumb Farm (Corella, Bohol)

Posted on 2 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Green Thumb Alfresco Resto (Ganoderma Hall)

Our Bohol Food trip began by taking a 30-minute drive towards Barangay Sambog of Corella, Bohol for the first stop of the day, the lovely, 2.5-hectare, Filipino-owned Green Thumb Farm, arriving there by 10 AM.

Accompanying us during our tour was Ms. Lourdes Sultan of Travel Village Tours and Travel. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by farm owners Jares Denque and Rona Menchavez Denque (originally a native of Maco, Davao del Oro) with their daughter Sophia.

Ms. Rona Denque (standing) meeting with media guests

The first of its kind in Bohol, Green Thumb Farm was set up in 2017. It is passionate about delivering healthy foods, supplying organically grown fresh, gray, yellow, black and pink oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus) and milky white mushrooms (Calocybe indica) which undergo a precise and detailed process, and fresh and unique, high quality processed mushroom products for the chefs of top hotels, resorts and restaurants in Bohol and Cebu as well as, in volume, to Landers Superstore and Rustan’s in Cebu.

Al fresco picnic area

Mushrooms have nutritional benefits, being a rich, low calorie source of fiber, protein and antioxidants. Pink oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus djamor), with its meaty texture, is a good source of protein, fiber, potassium, vitamin B and folate. It also has ergothioneine, known to reduce instances of cardiovascular disease.

Mushroom-based products such Milk Chocolate with Mushroom Bits (top shelf), Mushroom Chicharon (middle shelf) and Dried Ganoderma Mushrooms (lower shelf)

Growing and producing different types of mushrooms, however, is a tedious process. Every day, the farm harvests 8-15 kgs. of mushrooms and, once, they harvested up to 100 kgs. a day or over 20, 000 fruiting baskets, proving its potential for massive harvest.

At the farm, not a single mushroom is put to waste. Spores that have already reached the end of their fruiting process are converted into fertilizers. Aside from white oyster mushrooms, Green Thumb Farm also cultures reishi mushrooms (Ganoderma lucidum) which is known to have healing properties, especially for cancer patients. It also has anti-aging effects and increases memory, helps immune and cardiac function and relieves chronic fatigue.

Mushroom greenhouse

The farm is a favorite stop-over for bikers traversing the inner roads towards Loboc as they also serve healthy organic meals sourced from their own produce. Depending on the availability of crops produced, they can also pick-and-pay organically grown vegetables. A member of the Association of Organic Farmers in Bohol, Green Thumb Farm partners with other farms with the aim of building a network of organic product exchange and strengthen their community of organic growers.

Milky White Mushrooms (Calocybe indica)

Rona, an Accounting graduate who has a natural flair for growing plants, is known as the “Mushroom Queen” of Bohol. Her venture into mushroom production was actually a suggestion from a friend and co-zumba attendee. With assistance from the Department of Agriculture Region VII’s Agricultural Promotion Center, she gained more knowledge.

Pink Oyster Mushrooms (Pleurotus djamor)

A regional trainer and lecturer on mushrooms, she gave us a short tour of the greenhouses of the farm where they grow their mushrooms in fruiting bags on “vertical gardens” within tiny but compact “mushroom huts.”

The farm pasteurizer (mechanical chopper and a boiler with a pasteurizing chamber)

We also saw the pasteurizer (mechanical chopper and a boiler with a pasteurizing chamber) that reduces the amounts of microscopic competitors in a substrate.

Check out “Restaurant Review: Green Thumb Alfresco Resto”

Merienda fare: Mushroom Siomai, Mushroom pizzas (Greek, tocino and bacon) and Mushroom Burgers

She also gave us a short lecture on growing mushrooms and the many benefits of eating them. At the Green Thumb Alfresco Resto, we watched a cooking demonstration of mushroom sisig, one of Green Thumb’s most popular dishes, seasoned with calamansi, onions and pepper. What followed next was a merienda of mushroom-based dishes.

Ms. Rona M. Denque (left) leading the mushroom sisig cooking demonstration

Now a top tourist destination in the province, this new farming destination is accredited by the Department of Tourism, and the Agricultural Training Institute has also certified this integrated, diversified farm as a learning site.

Back row (L-R): Mr. John Paul Dacuycuy, Ms. Christine Alpad (Senior Reporter, Manila Times Lifestyle and Entertainment Desk), Mr. Anton Delos Reyes (Writer, Malaya Business Insight), the author, Mr. Jares Denque.
Front row (L-R): Mr. Alvin Alcantara (www.thediarist.ph), Ms. Raye Sanchez (Lifestyle and Entertainment Writer, Daily Tribune), Mr. Mario Alvaro Limos (Features Editor, Esquire Philippines), Mr. Pete Dacuycuy (Publicist), Ms. Rona M. Denque (with daughter Sophia), Ms. Roxanne M. Gochuico (Corporate Social Responsibility Manager, Cebu Pacific) and Mr. Nickie Wang (Entertainment and Lifestyle Editor, Manila Standard).

Green Thumb Farm: Purok 4, Brgy. Sambog, Corella 6300, Bohol. Mobile number: (0917) 543-9700. E-mail: gthumbfarm@gmail.com. Website: www.greenthumbfarmbohol.com. Open daily, 11 AM to 9 PM. Admission: Php50/pax (free for diners).

Bohol Provincial Tourism Office: G/F, New Provincial Capitol Bldg., C. Marapao St, Tagbilaran City, 6300. Tel: (038) 411 3666. Email: inquire@boholtourismph.com. Website: www.bohol.ph.

Amarela Museum (Amarela Resort, Panglao, Bohol)

Posted on 1 July, 2022 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Amarela Museum

Our first stop was Amarela Resort (officially opened in May 2006), an advocate for local art and culture since its inception as a venue where Boholano heritage, art and culture could be preserved and showcased. Amarela (from the Spanish word for “yellow”). Perched on a cliff , this beautiful boutique hotel, with commanding views of the azure sea and the longest white sand beach in Panglao, is a two-time ASEAN Green Hotel Award recipient in Bohol.

Museum entrance

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by 73 year old resort owner Atty. Lucas “Doy” M. Nunag, former chairman of the Bohol Tourism Council. Since he was a practicing lawyer, the affable Doy has been collecting art pieces and antique décor (old wood accents such as latticework, balusters, windows and doors), old implements and furniture from Bohol. Boholano historian Marianito Luspo accompanied us.

A pair of Baroque-style urnas (wooden shrines)

Started as a vacation house, Amarela Resort was the first resort project of Rosario “Chichi” Vasquez-Victorino (a former colleague of mine at Manosa-Zialcita Architects) who also designed two houses of Doy in Manila. In its conceptualization, design and operation, the resort incorporated Bohol’s rich heritage and culture, making it a venue where people can truly experience local flavor through artistry and craftsmanship.

Farming and fishing implements and kitchen utensils

The main house, where we were first entertained, used repurposed and reclaimed old, beautiful and incredibly durable hardwood (the imposing, turn-of-the-century, solid wooden doors; handcrafted lattices; wooden shutters, balusters and flooring), taken from a house of a famed sculptor along the way to Antequera (Doy’s birthplace), using it as decorative elements and giving it the Boholano spirit.

Bohol historian Marianito Luspos

Doy also found old furniture, some of it needing repair. A talented carpenter (who also doubled as a habal-habal driver during the day) from Antequera (a town known for its craftsmanship in woodworking and weaving) to refurbished these as well as craft new furniture using traditional designs.

A display of wooden latticework and sungka (Philippine mancala) game boards

Its museum, a strong commitment to the promotion and appreciation of local art as well as the preservation of Boholano culture and heritage, houses the majority of the local art and antique collection of Doy, allowing guests to appreciate Filipino and Boholano art and craftsmanship. Most of the paintings and sculptures were created by Boholanos.

The lovely works of the late Hermogena “Nene” Borja-Lungay, who studied under Fernando Amorsolo and a a classmate of the late National Artists Napoleon Abueva and Jose T. Joya, showcase old Boholano traditions as well as renderings of local fruits and flowers.

Paintings of the Stations of the Cross

Works of prominent Bohol-based Guy Custodio, who usually paints religious themes on old recycled molave hardwood, has revived the traditional “Bohol School” painting style. On the other hand, the subjects of Sherwin Tutor are historical events done in a highly detailed figurative style. They include a painting of the two kings of the fallen Dapitan Kingdom located at Tagbilaran Strait. Tere’s also a portrait of a mother and child.

Sketches of Bohol churches

Displayed all over the resort, as well as in the museum, are Baroque-style urnas, some done in triptych (three-panelled paintings hinged together so that they could be closed). These carved wooden shrines for religious icons, of varying sizes and styles, are evidence of the rich spiritual beliefs of Boholanos. Also on display are home tools and antique kitchen utensils and equipment such as a duwang (wooden basin), palo-palo (laundry paddle), lusong (mortar), ganta (measuring implement for grain, sugar and salt), all made from molave wood.

A lantaka (native cannon)

Amarela Museum: Amarela Resort, Lourdes-Libaong Brgy. Rd., Panglao, 6340. Tel: (038) 502-9497 to 99. Mobile numbers: (0917) 819-1007 (Atty. Lucas “Doy” M. Nunag), (0917) 623-0557 (Reservations) and (0917) 774-7200 (Front Office). E-mail: reservation@amarelaresort.com and Imnunag@amarelaresort.com. Website: www.amarelaresort.com. Facebook: www.facebook.com/Amarela. Instagram: www.instagram.com/amarela. Admission: A consumable entrance fee is charged.

Bohol Provincial Tourism Office: G/F, New Provincial Capitol Bldg., C. Marapao St, Tagbilaran City, 6300. Tel: (038) 411 3666. Email: inquire@boholtourismph.com. Website: www.bohol.ph.

Department of Tourism Regional Office VII: G/F, L.D.M Building, Legaspi St, Cebu City, 6000 Cebu. Tel: (032) 254 6650 and (032) 254 2811. E-mail: dotregion7@gmail.com. Website: dot7@tourism.gov.ph.

Cebu Pacific Air currently flies seven times daily from Manila and thrice weekly from Davao City (every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday) to Bohol’s Panglao International Airport. Visit www.cebupacificair.com to learn about their latest offerings, safety protocols and travel reminders.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is an avid reader, traveler and free-lance travel writer in his spare time, contributing articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day, Bluprint and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.