Whale shark (butanding)

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After breakfast and checking out at the 15-room, 3-star Elysia Beach Resort, we were all transported, via our coaster, to the nearby Whale Interaction Center for the highlight of our day – interacting with whale sharks (locally called butanding, in other parts of the country they are locally known as bailan, kulwano, tawiki or toki), the first thing that comes into mind when you’re in the province.  This would be my first whale shark interaction in Donsol but also my third overall, having done so twice in Oslob, Cebu.

Check out “Resort Review: Elysia Beach Resort” and “Whale Shark Interaction (Oslob, Cebu)“

Butanding Visitors Center

This activity had its beginnings in 1998 when the then sleepy town of Donsol gained international prominence when over 90 whale sharks (scientific name: Rhincodon typus) congregated at the mouth of the murky, nutrient-rich waters of the long and winding Quipia (or Donsol) River.   The infrastructure for whale shark-watching tours is already in place and now, a quarter of a century later, we were to give it a try.

The short orientation video

Considered as the largest fish in the world, they measure from 4.6 m. (15 ft.) to as long as 18 m. (60 ft.) in length, weigh up to 40 tons and live up to 100 years.  Typical sightings in Donsol range from 4-12 m. in length.  They have broad, flat heads and 3 prominent ridges on the upper flank. Its huge body is covered with a checkerboard pattern of silvery polka dots and stripes on its blue-gray-brown skin.

Listening to the orientation

Whale sharks are highly migratory and their movement may be guided by food availability; water temperature and quality; and environmental factors such as weather, currents and wind.  Where they go during the off-season is still not known.

Whale sharks are filer feeders, typically feeding on a varied diet of plankton, krill, squid and invertebrate larva which flourish only in healthy conditions.  Thus, they act as an indicator of the seas’ general health.  Their huge mouths (as long as 2 m. across) are lined with thousands of tiny teeth which are neither used for biting or chewing.  Large volumes of water are sucked into the mouth, where food is retained in the gill rakers, and the water is released through the gill slits.

The floating pontoon

The other Sorsogon towns of Castilla, Magallanes and Pilar are also noted for butanding sightings.  Since then, these gentle giants, have kept coming back and the area has become one of the biggest draws in Southern Luzon.

The adjoining beach

Interaction tours have provided the local communities with an important livelihood. In March 1998, through Fisheries Administrative Order No. 193, the Philippine government banned the killing or harming of whale sharks and export of by-products.      Time Magazine featured it as the Best Animal Encounter in Asia.

The author

It is believed that these whale sharks, about 30 to 40 of them at any one time, converge off the Donsol waters to feed on plankton, krill and juvenile fish. They allow humans to swim or interact with them and this phenomenon has attracted hundreds of tourists around the world eager to interact with these gentle giants of the sea.

The author (left) with the rest of the group at our assigned boats

The day of our visit was within the official whale-watching season, coinciding with the northeast monsoon, starts during the months of October and November and peaks from February 1 to May 31, when the sea is at its clearest and calmest.

Our spotter scanning the horizon for butanding

Upon the arrival at Butanding Visitors Center, we registered ourselves at the center and attended a short orientation. Donsol protects these whale sharks through guidelines and local ordinances that must be strictly followed.  World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Philippines is working closely with the local government and private organizations in researching and monitoring of whale sharks, information and educational campaigns, and sustainable ecotourism development and management. Here are some of the guidelines:

Ms. Ann Dimayacyac and the author waiting for the signal from the BIO to get in the water

• Wearing sun block lotion was not allowed as its chemicals could harm the butanding.
• Feeding them is a no no. The butanding has to show up, on their own, to feed on plankton and krill.
• Only six (6) interaction swimmers are allowed per boat and only one (1) interaction boat per one butanding. The other interaction boats will have to wait their turn. A maximum of 15 boats are allowed to go daily.
• You are allowed to use a mask, snorkel and fins (bring your own) and can swim with them for as long as the sharks feel comfortable.
• To limit stress to the sharks, scuba gear, holding on to or riding the animals, clapping, shouting, stomping and flash photography is prohibited.
• The recommended distance from the whale shark is 3 m. from the tail.
• Do not restrict their movement or impede its natural path.
• Scooters, jet skis or any motorized underwater propulsion is not allowed.
• If the sharks are alarmed or harassed, the encounter is stopped immediately.

After our orientation, we proceeded to our accredited boats where we met up with our assigned boat crew including spotters and our Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) named Michael Radores the official group leader, whose instructions we were to strictly follow. As we went on our way, our spotter stood on a high vantage point of the boat, scanning the horizon for signs of a whale shark.  Sightings are not guaranteed but there is an 85% chance of encountering and seeing whale sharks.   There were a number of sightings the day before so we were hoping for the same today.

After a number of unsuccessful tries, our spotter again espied one from afar and Michael finally told Ms. Ann Dimayacyac and I to don our snorkels and sit on the port side of the boat.  Once he said the word “Jump,” we got into the water together with Michael.  After some time in the water, we saw the whale shark with its distinct white polka dot spots.  Within that short window, we got to see it up close and personal before it swam away. Check out the video here.

My successful encounter with this harmless, gentle, friendly and playful giant of the sea could only be described by me as surreal.  Luckily, the excitement of my encounter was recorded by Michael using my cellphone camera encased in a waterproof phone pouch.  The epitome of wildlife encounters, this was a singular experience of a lifetime and any nature enthusiast or eco-tour fanatic should not afford to miss this.  A whale shark interaction tours can take as long as 2 to 3 hours.

How to Get There: Donsol is located 489.7 kms. (an 11.5–hr. drive), via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26, from Manila and 78.3 kms. (a 1.75–hr. drive), via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26 and the Putiao-Pilar-Donsol Rd., from Sorsogon City. From Donsol town proper, the resort is an 8.2-km./15-min. drive.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism, Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Donsol Tourism Office: Visitor’s Center, Brgy. Dancalan, Donsol 4715, Sorsogon. Mobile number: (0917) 137-5134. E-mail: donsoltourismoffice@gmail.com. Facebook: https: www.facebook.com/DonsolTourism/

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel