Church of St. Charles Borromeo (Mahatao, Batanes)

Church of St. Charles Borromeo

From Maydangeb White Beach, we traveled the remaining 2.4 kms. (a 5-min. drive), to Mahatao town proper, making a stopover at the town’s Spanish-era Church of St. Charles Borromeo.

Check out “Maydangeb White Beach”

The church complex

The first church, made with light material and completed by Dominican friars in 1789, was destroyed by a strong typhoon in 1872 and the present structure was rebuilt, with stone and lime, in 1873 by Father Crescencio Polo, OP (who also remodeled the stone and mortar convent attached to the church).

Plaque installed by National Historical Institute in 2008

On September 19, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, the flag of the Katipunan was raised in the campanille and the church was ransacked (the original gold Episcopal crosier of the image of San Carlos as well as the gold jewelry pieces of the Lady of the Rosary and the Santo Niño were stolen).

Plaque installed by National Commission for Culture and the Arts in June 2005

In the 20th century, the cogon roof was replaced with galvanized iron and, sometime in 1990, the choir was removed.  On July 31, 2001, the church was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines.

The church’s interior

It has an espadaña-style façade similar to Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer in Sabtang, with two round arches at roof levels for the bells (one of which is dated 1874).  The outer walls have uneven wall thicknesses due to the addition of massive step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

The main altar

The church’s Baroque style interiors showcases floral designs with sunburst ornaments painted in polychrome and gilt, lending a golden glow among the statuary. On the center of the main retablo is the statue of St. Charles Borromeo (the patron saint) surrounded by statues of St. Joseph, St. Dominic de Guzman and St. Rose of Lima.

Right side altar housing statue of Our Lady of the Rosary

Two side altars house the statue of the Our Lady of the Rosary, on the right, and of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on the left.

Left side altar housing statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

The second floor of the church convent, on the right side of the façade, is not the typical volada (cantilevered gallery) for convents in the Philippines but an open extended deck. At the back of the convent are remains of an old circular well.

The church’s convent

Within the church’s courtyard is a stone structure that once housed the beatario.  Elsewhere in the courtyard and the elementary school are Spanish-era stone lampposts said to have been used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport.

One of two Spanish-era stone lampposts

Church of St. Charles Borromeo: National Road, Brgy. Uvoy (Poblacion), Mahatao, 3901 Batanes. Mobile number: (0921) 766-2282. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo:  November 4.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Maydangeb White Beach and Blue Lagoon (Mahatao, Batanes)

Maydangeb White Beach

On our way to Mahatao town proper, we made a short stopover at the scenic and secluded, beautiful white sand Maydangeb White Beach and, later, passed by the small but equally beautiful Blue Lagoon, both located just beside the national road. Both are also among the few places in Batanes where one can go for a relaxed and safe swim.

The rocky promontory on the right

The quite cozy Maydangeb White Beach, a popular spot for swimming and picture taking, is flanked by rocky promontories and fringed by coconut trees, providing natural shade for those who wish to relax under them, plus it is often not crowded, providing a quiet and relaxing environment for visitors.

The rocky promontory on the left

The 150 to 200-m. long beach is accessible during both high and low (though swimming may require walking a bit far from the shore) tides. For beachgoers, it a budget-friendly option as the beach is free to enter.

The latter, just around the corner, concealed by rocky cliffs, is more commonly known as Huhmurun by the locals.  During the Spanish era, it was called the Spanish Lagoon or Spaniard’s Lagoon because only Spaniards were allowed to swim in this natural pool.

L-R: the author, Grace and Jandy

Now open to both locals and tourists alike, it has crystal-clear waters that turn blue during the summer season.  Though accessible from the highway, you have to walk a few meters down a inconspicuous, steep and rocky trail.  Around the area are deep ravines and rock formations.

Blue Lagoon (Huhmurun)

Maydangeb White Beach: National Rd, Homoron, 5901 Mahatao, Batanes.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Honesty Coffee Shop (Ivana, Batanes)

Honesty Coffee Shop

From Mutchong View Point, it was to be a long 20.1-km. (40-min.) drive to the small, quaint and unmanned Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana where we did some souvenir shopping.

Check out “Mutchong View Point” and “Church of St. Joseph the Worker”

Located near the Church of St. Joseph the Worker, this icon of the province’s ingrained values is the most popular coffee shop in Batanes.  Perhaps the only one of its kind in the country (and probably the world), it tests the honesty of its customers as they purchase their products.

Opened in 1995, nobody tends to this store owned by Mr. Jose and Elena C. Gabilo, a retired school teacher, but a plaque inside is inscribed with the words “The Lord is my Security Guard.”  You can post your own thoughts or notes on one of its walls.

Souvenir T-shirts

In this self-service store, we simply picked the items we wanted from a shelf or rack (coffee, instant noodles, bread, Ivatan souvenirs such as printed T-shirts and vakul, homemade bukayo, garlic chips, etc.).

Souvenir hats and caps

We then checked for the list of prices at a logbook, then listed our purchase (printed T-shirts and some snacks) and the denomination of money paid in a notebook.

Souvenir handicrafts

Exact change is then dropped in the designated money or “payment” box or drawer.  In the event that change is needed, you can just it get from the box.

In case you need to collect your change, you can press the buzzer for an attendant to assist you.  However, it will spoil the experience.  It also has a few tables where you can sip your coffee and eat your snacks.  A 6.5 min. segment in the 2015 film You’re My Boss, starring Toni Gonzaga (as Georgina) and Coco Martin (as Pong), was shot at this store.

Scene of Coco Martin and Toni GGonzaga shot at the Honesty Coffee Shop

Honesty Coffee Shop: National Rd., Brgy. Radiwan, 3902 Ivana.  Mobile number: (0908) 771-1565.

How to Get There: Ivana is located 13.85 kms.(a 15-min.drive) south Basco. The coffee shop is located near the town’s church and port.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com. 

Ivana Tourist Information Center: 3902 Ivana.  Mobile number: (0947) 541-4100.

Church of St. Antonius of Florence (Uyugan, Batanes)

Church of St. Antonius of Florence

From Mutchong View Point, it was to be a long 20.1-km. (40-min.) drive to the Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. Five minutes into our trip, we made a short stopover at the Church of St. Antonius of Florence near the municipal hall at the town center of Uyugan.

Check out “Mutchong View Point” and “Honesty Coffee Shop”

View of church from the left. Note the pair of step buttresses on the side

The smallest of all the Spanish-era churches in Batanes, this simple church was built in 1871 by Dominican Fr. Fabian Martin (term: 1844 to 1878) and is one of the churches frequented by Fr. Jerry Orbos during his Pilgrimage Tour.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

This single nave church, also built in the espadaña style, has one segmental arch for a bell (now gone) on the upper portion of its Baroque and Gothic-style façade which is buttressed by massive flat pilasters from the foundation to the top.  

Gothic influences are seen from the gables over the narrow, semicircular arched main entrance, the flanking statue niches and the window (above which is the Dominican Order’s seal with its motto “Veritas”) over main entrance. On the sides are step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.   

The church’s single nave interior

Church of Antoninus of Florence: Brgy. Kayuganan, 3903 Uyugan.  Feast of Antoninus of Florence: May 10.

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kms. (a 45-min. drive) from Basco and 11.9 kms. (a 25-min. drive) from Ivana. 

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Mahatao Boat Shelter Port (Mahatao, Batanes)

On our way to Racuh a Payaman, from Chawa View Deck, we passed by the Mahatao Boat Shelter Port just before entering the town proper of Mahatao.  This shelter area, within a man-made cove, is for falowas, tatayas and other small inter-island vessels plying the Basco-Itbayat route as well as those ferrying passengers or construction materials from Basco or Ivana to Sabtang Island, when typhoons hit Batanes.

Check out “Racuh a Payaman” and “Chawa View Deck”

Mahatao Boat Shelter Port

Costing Php130 million (out of the originally estimated Php250 million), it was, at that time, the biggest provincial infrastructure project.  This brainchild of Governor Vicente S. Gato (1998 to 2007), officially called the Diosdado Macapagal-Jorge Abad Sr. Boat Shelter Port, was completed in October 2005 with the special assistance of the Naval Special Operations Group of the Philippine Navy (Gato is a retired Navy captain) and inaugurated on June 25, 2007. The shelter port has since become a popular stop on the South Batan tour.

Mahatao Boat Shelter Port

Mahatao Boat Shelter Port: National Rd., 3901 Mahatao.  Admission: Php50 per pax. Tel: (02) 782-8002.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kilometers (a 30-minute drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Chawa View Deck (Mahatao, Batanes)

Chawa View Deck

On our third day in Batanes, after breakfast at the hotel, it began to rain when we boarded our van for the 1.8-km. (a 5-min.) drive, along winding roads, to the first stop of our Southern Batan Island Tour – the breathtaking Chawa View Deck (also called Mahatao View Deck or Chanarian View Deck).  The word chawa came from the Ivatan word meaning “cliff.”

Grotto of the Virgin Mary

Upon arrival, we first encountered a grotto of the Blessed Virgin Mary then some concrete benches where one can sit (if it weren’t wet) and have a panoramic view of the West Philippine Sea beyond, the pounding waves below, the rolling green hills and the rugged western cliffs that hug the road to the southern towns.

View from the deck

The cliff also has a steep concrete stairway, with 100 or so steps, that lead down to the sea where you can dip your feet in the cool waters, take additional photos, go fishing or just watch the waves hitting the rocks. During low tide, there is a mini pool.

L-R: Grace, the author and Jandy

We didn’t go down the stairway as climbing back up would be quite a workout and the steps were very slippery and dangerous to step on after the rain. Instead, we simply relaxed, took photos and enjoyed the breeze and the view.

Concrete steps leading down to the shore

Some distance from the view deck, I espied a pair of extraordinary mountain goats defying gravity as they clung precariously off the steep mountain side.

Two mountain goats clinging precariously to the mountain sides.

Chawa View Deck: Basco National Rd., Brgy. Hanib, 3901 Mahatao. 

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.  The viewing deck is located at the top of the Chawa winding road within Mahatao.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.