Return to Banaue (Ifugao)

The narrow streets of Banaue

My first trip to Banaue, Ifugao and its showpiece, the stupendous Batad Rice Terraces (the “Eighth Wonder of the World”), was way back in April of 1998 (http://firingyourimagination.blogspot.com/2011/08/ifugao-day-tour-of-batad-rice-terraces.html) with my then 11-year old son Jandy. Back then there were no celphone signals (making my celphone useless) and the camera I brought with me was an instamatic Canon Sureshot Joy using now rarely-used roll film.  Since then, I have been pining for a return. Well, wishes do come true and I have returned. Though now without Jandy (he had a cold) or my daughter Cheska (she had commitments), I was traveling with seasoned professional photographers –  Mr. Steve Albano, Mr. Jun Bagaindoc, Mr. Jules Capucion, Mr. Nonie Castillo, Ms. Mel Dimapilis, Mr. Rene Enriquez, Mr. Bebet Gaudinez, Mr. Lawrence Bryan Lee and my good friend and frequent travel companion Ms. Rosevie Sevilla; all members of the Ayala Alabang Camera Club.  Our group also included master guide Mr. Lester Susi plus sisters Pearl Giselle and Phoebe Uno, Ms. Ivy Belimac and Mr. Arvic Camua.  To put on some professional air, I brought with me my daughter’s Canon EOS 500D digital SLR which I recently bought in Singapore. However, this was mostly for show as it was set in automatic.

View of the town from People’s Lodge

We left Manila on January 26, 9:30 PM via an airconditioned GV Florida bus at its terminal along Lacson St, near Espana Ave. (near U.S.T.).  One thing nice about this bus was it had its own toilet, convenient for this long-haul  341-km./10-hour trip which including stopovers.  As soon as the bus left the terminal, we all tried to grab some shuteye.  Our trip was uneventful and our bus arrived in Banaue 7 AM the next day.  Our group was picked up by a hired AUV which brought us to People’s Lodge and Restaurant for breakfast. Nostalgically, this inn was the same place me and my son Jandy stayed in during our first visit.  While waiting for our food, we tried out its balcony.  Here, we had a panoramic view of the town, its backdrop of rice terraces and the winding Ibulao River which was traversed by a hanging steel bridge (which, in the past, I tried to cross but chickened out half way).

Ifugao woodcarving

Once done with breakfast, Mel, Rosevie and I explored the nearby handicraft stores for some souvenir shopping.  The shopping options include different kinds of traditional fabric like the woven bark cloth and dyed ikat cloth, wooden objets d’art  such as bowls, trays, oversized spoons and forks, antiques, entirely alien statues of American Indian chiefs and smiling, pot-bellied Chinese gods, and the traditional bul-ols (statues of rice gods).  Curio souvenirs include handwoven wall hangings, crocheted bedroom slippers and pfu-ong (traditional jewelry) representing good luck in hunting or prosperity of children.   Once done, we returned to our group and the AUV for our trip to the jump-off point for our hike to Batad Rice Terraces.

Stotsenberg Parade Grounds (Clark Field, Pampanga)

When one mentions Clark Field in Pampanga, the first thing that comes in most peoples’ minds is duty-free shopping.  Having booked ourselves for an overnight stay at Hotel Vida, we also did that, doing some shopping at Puregold.  However, there’s more to Clark than just duty-free shopping.  For one, there’s history.

Stotsenberg Parade Grounds

Lots of history exists around the Stotsenberg Parade Grounds.  Large houses called “barns,” built with Oregon pine shipped from the U.S. and used as officers’ quarters, are arranged in a row along the grounds.  Built from 1910-1913 at a cost of US$1,309.9 each by Filipino, Chinese and Japanese laborers, they were the first permanent structures in Fort Stotsenberg (named after Col. John W. Stotsenberg, killed in the Battle of Quingua, Bulacan on April 23, 1899), the forerunner of Clark Field (renamed as such in 1919 after Army aviator Maj. Harold M. Clark who was killed in an air crash in the Panama Canal).  

CDC Exhibition of Kapampangan Crafts

Over the years, until 1922, hundreds of these barns were built but, by the mid 1980s, most of these barn houses were demolished.  Those along Cardinal Santos Ave., now called the Centennial Block, are all that remain.  The huge, shady and century-old acacia (monkey pod) trees in the area were planted in 1903.  

Centennial House: Lifestyle in Stotsenberg Museum

Many of theses barn houses have undergone adaptive reuse. One barn house, Bldg. 2081, houses the Mabalacat Municipal Tourism Office.  Another houses the Clark Development Corp. (CDC) Exhibition of Kapampangan Crafts.  A number also house restaurants such as Cafe Mesa Coffee Shop and Bar (Bldg. 2078) and Red Crab Alimango House (Bldg. 2078).  Another houses a museum (Centennial House Lifestyle in Stotsenberg Museum).

Cafe Mesa Coffee Shop and Bar

The Death Place of  Roxas Marker, directly across the street from the CDC office, close to the Philippine flag, was built in memory of the Philippine president Manuel A. Roxas who, upon the invitation by the U.S. 13th Air Force commander, came to see for himself the massive reconstruction and rehabilitation work in war-damaged Clark on  April 15, 1948.  That same, while delivering a speech at Kelly Theater, he suffered a heart attack and died. 

Death Place of Roxas Marker

At the western edge of Stotsenberg Parade Grounds is the 26th Cavalry Memorial which commemorates the men of the 26th Cavalry Philippine Scounts, U.S. Army, who died during their heroic action at Lingayen (Pangasinan) in 1941.  Next to it is the U.S. Army Air Corps and Philippine Air Force Monument which details the joint participation of the Philippine and American military forces

26th Cavalry Monument
US and Philippine Air Corps Monument

Cafe Mesa Coffee Shop and Bar: Cardinal Santos Ave., Clark Special Economic Zone, Pampanga.  Tel: (045) 499-0694.

Red Crab Alimango House: Cardinal Santos Ave., Clark Special Economic Zone, Pampanga.  Tel: (045) 599-5345.

 

Kennon Road (Tuba, Benguet)

Bernard, Rodel, Jandy and i all woke up very early in the morning as we had to make it back to Manila by lunch time as Jandy had an afternoon class at Asia Pacific College.  Previously, I entered Baguio City via the longer Palispis-Aspiras Highway (formerly Marcos Highway).  This time, to cut travel time and distance (43 kms.), I plan to return via the traditional Kennon Road route.  Besides, it is also the most exciting and scenic route.  Starting from Rosario, Pangasinan, this winding 38-km. zigzag road, though narrower than the Marcos Highway, is used by light vehicles only, leaving out the wider buses and slower cargo trucks.  

Jandy and Rodel at the Lion’s Head

Started in 1903 by American Col. Leighton W.V. Kennon with 125 imported Japanese laborers, its labor force was increased to 2,000 by the time of its opening on January 29, 1905. Built at a cost of US$2,051,562.80, it was the most expensive road in the world at that time.  Points of interest along the way are named after spots in California’s Yosemite Valley in the American West.  The upward climb reveals picturesque heights, lush greenery and two roughly-hewn, pre-World War II mountainside tunnels (one of which has a stream running through it) meant to accommodate a locomotive and pave the way for those narrow-gauge railroad runs from Baguio City to Damortis but never used.  Best viewed near the Kennon Police Checkpoint, this road is frequently hit by landslides during the heavy monsoon rains. 

Bridal Veil Natural Falls

On a hairpin bend above the steep-sided Bued Rier gorge, at Camp 6, a few kms. from the Kennon Rd. view deck, we made a stopover at the 40-ft. high Lion Head.   Built from 1971 to 1972, it was carved from a limestone boulder by a Cordillera artist hired by the Lions Club to create a symbol that would proclaim the presence of the group in Baguio City. Beside it are a few small stalls selling woodcarving and other native handicraft. It was during the term of Baguio Mayor Luis Lardizabal, who was also Lions Club governor in 1969 to 1970, when the club conceptualized the creation of the lion head.  Actual work started in 1971 and took a year before it was unveiled to the public by Lions Club International in 1972. The club tapped donations from Lion members and businessmen in the city and pooled proceeds from a state convention to fund the construction of the lion head.

Further down the Kennon Road, past Camp 3,  about 36 kms. from Baguio City, we espied Bridal Veil Natural Falls.  So called because of its silvery braids of water, it cascades down its steep, rocky slope to a 10-ft. deep natural pool.  

Bridal Veil Natural Falls: Brgy. Tabaan Sur, Tuba, Benguet

The Strawberry Fields of La Trinidad (Benguet)

Bernard and Rodel again joined Jandy and I as we proceeded to the Benguet provincial capitol of La Trinidad, where we visited the Strawberry Farms.  The Trinidad Valley is home, aside from vegetable farms and flower plantations, to strawberry fields that are in full bloom between November and May.  We headed for Km. 6, the easiest place to visit. 

Ibaloi farmers hard at work at the fields

Tourist usually go here to pick strawberries, either to bring home or consume while on vacation, alongside hardworking Ibaloi farmers.  Strangely though, the strawberries you pick here cost twice the market value.  The other half is for the activity itself.  Still, its cheaper than the ones sold in Manila. We weren’t into this fun activity though.  Besides, the best time to do this is early in the morning and we arrived late in the afternoon when the best strawberries have already been picked. 

Souvenir stalls

Rather, we were going for the finished products sold at souvenir stalls, selling strawberry products and other Baguio delicacies and souvenir items, within the farm ground, just across the road from the fields.  We bought a couple of jars of strawberry jam, some sweaters and, from an ambulant vendor,  a snakeskin wallet.  Still, the strawberry fields were still a sight to behold, producing the best, disease-free (due to a process of tissue culture pioneered by Benguet State University) strawberries in the country. 

Camp John Hay – Historical Core (Baguio City, Benguet)

After lunch at the Philippine Military Academy (PMA) cafeteria, Jandy and I again boarded our Toyota Revo and proceeded to Camp John Hay. This attractive, quiet place, with views of the surrounding hills, always offers an abundance of rest and recreation activities such as hikes along a 1.8-km. eco-trail; biking, horseback riding and kiddie rides at Scout Hill; camping, an educational tour of the Butterfly Sanctuary; and golf at its 5,330-yard, 18-hole, par-68 golf course, one of the best in the country.

Club John Hay Golf Course

The Camp John Hay Mile-Hi Center, a former recreation center of the Americans, offers local and exported crafts and garments.  Within the CJH Commercial Mall, located at the former Administration Bldg., is the John Hay Commissary (a duty-free shop), Strumms, Dencio’s Bar and Grill, Side Bar and Nike Stadium, plus a billiards hall, business center and an internet cafe.  There’s also the Camp John Hay Manor and the Camp John Hay Suites, nice places to stay within the camp.

John Hay Manor

A 3-hectare slice of nostalgia within the camp, called the Historical Core, my favorite spot then and now, has been set aside to preserve the camp’s timelessness and allure.  Deemed inviolate to the whims and winds of change, this living museum was envisioned as more than just a window on time.  It consists of the Bell Amphitheater, the History Trail, Honeymoon Lodge, Our Secret Garden, the Cemetery of Negativism and Bell House.

Cemetery of Negativism

Near the entrance is the Cemetery of Negativism, built during the term of camp commander Maj. John Hightower (1979-1982).  A glimpse into the homespun American philosophy of living, here we strolled among the tombstones where bad habits and the scourge of productivity are buried, its touch of whimsy doing little to negate the truth of its message.  Among them are the inept Kant du Nutin Wright, the defeatist Ben Trid Bfor and the notorious General Neg A. Tivism (whose epitaph reads “Died of positive reaction to enthusiasm”).

Bell House (Camp John Hay Museum)

The Bell House, now the Camp John Hay Museum (opened on October 25, 2003), was named after U.S. Gen. J. Franklin Bell.  Initially built as the vacation home of the Commanding General, today it is the repository of artifacts and other indoor exhibits.

Bell Amphitheater

Personally designed by Gen. Bell who took inspiration from the Ifugao’s terracing technique, the amphitheater was once a venue for social and cultural gatherings known for its perfect acoustics.  Anything said under the gazebo at the center is amplified, audible from any point within the amphitheater.  Its rows of chairs have since been replaced and it is now a multi-level landscaped garden with rare flowers.  The amphitheater is now available for concerts, weddings and other special occasions.

The History Trail

The History Trail, designed to wind its way amidst pine trees, offers landscaped resting areas.  Our Secret Garden is planted to blooms that add a splash of color and scents. It also has a gazebo. The Honeymoon Cottage is rented out to newlyweds.

Philippine Military Academy – Military Drill (Baguio City, Benguet)

It seems, I came on a wrong day (it being a Monday) for a visit to the Philippine Military Academy, missing out on the weekly military ceremony which consists of a regular Saturday Inspection (SI) of ranks, all dressed in their colorful uniforms consisting of a dark gray jacket with heavy brass buttons, a pair of white pants and the shaku, and their parade at Borromeo Field.

Military Drill

Military ceremonies, important parts of the academy’s tradition, serve the dual function of rendering honors and courtesies to deserving officials and dignitaries and to train the cadets through parades, precision marching, poise and discipline. Occasionally, silent drills are also held, wherein the performers, selected from the yearlings or the third-class cadets, execute drills and marches which include precise manual of arms and fancy formations, all done without commands. However, we still witnessed the 11 AM military drills which were a spectacle in itself. Rest assured, my future visit to the academy will be on a Saturday.

Fort Del Pilar: Loakan Rd., Baguio City, Benguet

A Visit to the West Point of the Philippines (Baguio City, Benguet)

One of the proudest moment in my life was when my daughter Cheska passed the written entrance exam for the Philippine Military Academy (PMA), one of 800 applicants who passed (out of 5,000) who took the exam at Philippine Normal University.  The PMA began accepting female cadets just 15 years ago,  in 1993.  She didn’t push through with this, though, opting instead to enter the University of Sto. Tomas and take up Medical Technology.    It begs the question “What makes this school attractive to so many applicants and different to other schools?”  Well for one, the life of a PMA cadet revolves around strict adherence to the Cadet Honor Code (“We, the cadets do not lie, cheat, steal nor tolerate among us those who do among us”).  It is a must for all cadets, not only to know the code, but also to practice and make it a way of life.  Second, its rigid and unique, 4-year curriculum and training regimen is challenging; good for the tough, well motivated and gifted individual; bringing out the best to those who successfully hurdle it.   

Fort Del Pilar Gate

I have been to Baguio City countless number of times but not once have I visited this academy located some 10 kms. from downtown Baguio.  That is, until lately.  My past visits to the Summer Capital of the Philippines have been by family car or public transportation.  This time I brought my own Toyota Revo, traveling with my son Jandy and United Tourist Promotions (UTP)  friends Mr. Bernard Gonzales and Mr. Rodel “Pogs” Rivas who were on assignment at Baguio.  Too bad Cheska couldn’t join us.  We stayed at the Albergo de Ferroca Hotel, near Wright Park and the Mansion House.From the hotel, the PMA is just a 5-km. drive to its entrance.  Past it  is the equestrian statue of Gen. Gregorio del Pilar, the “Hero of Tirad Pass,” after whom the fort is named.

Shaku, the PMA’s landmark

This training school for future officers of the Armed Forces of the Philippines traces its history back to the Academia Militar which was established by Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo and Antonio Luna on October 25, 1898 at Malolos in Bulacan.  Most of its faculty members were former members of the Spanish Guardia Civil and its first superintendent was mestizo Capt. Manuel B. Sityar.  In February 1899, the academy was forced to close down  upon the outbreak of the Philippine-American War.

Melchor Hall

On February 17, 1905, during the American regime, an Officer’s School of the Philippine Constabulary was established at Sta. Lucia Barracks, within Manila’s Intramuros walls. On September 1,1908,  this school was relocated to Baguio, on the site known as Constabulary Hill, later renamed Camp Henry T. Allen in honor of the first chief of the Philippine Constabulary. On September 8, 1926, the school was renamed the Philippine Constabulary Academy, by virtue of Philippine Legislature Act No. 3496 and, later, the Philippine Military Academy in 1936.  In June that same year, the academy was transferred to Teachers Camp where it remained until World War II broke out. After the war, on May 5, 1947, the academy was reopened at Camp Henry T. Allen but, due to its increasing need for wider grounds, it was soon moved to its present location at Fort Del Pilar in Loakan. 

Fort Del Pilar: Loakan Rd., Baguio City, Benguet

SM City Baguio (Baguio City, Benguet)

From the hotel, Bernard and Rodel hitched a ride with us to SM City Baguio where they had some business to attend to.  This being our first visit to the mall, we decided to hang around the place.  With a floor area of 107,841 sq. m. (1,160,790 sq. ft.), this enclosed shopping mall, the largest in the Cordillera Region, was opened on November 21, 2003.  Situated on top of Session Road, overlooking historic Burnham Park and opposite Baguio’s City Hall, it sits on an 80,000 sq. m. (860,000 sq. ft.) land once occupied by  Pines Hotel, the grand, old landmark which burned down in 1973 (killing 4 firefighters).  
 
SM City Baguio
On thing I noticed with this 6-storey (including basement parking) mall is that it doesn’t have an airconditioning system (with Baguio’s cool climate, it doesn’t need one) and makes use of natural lighting (some stores are roofed with translucent white fiber, enabling sunlight to illuminate the interior on a clear sunny day).  Being the biggest mall and one of the biggest buildings in the city, this cruise ship-patterned mall houses more stores (300+ including 15 anchor stores), entertainment centers and shops than any other mall located in the city.
 
The veranda of the mall
At its veranda, we had a good view of some of the city’s main tourist attractions (Burnham Park & Lake, the City Hall, the Athletic Bowl, Session Road) as well as towering pine trees and beautiful lush gardens.
 
The mall’s atrium lobby
SM City Baguio: Luneta Hill, Upper Session Rd. cor. Gov. Pack Rd., Baguio City, Benguet. Tel: (074) 619-7838 to 43.

Carabao Island: The Next Boracay? (San Jose, Romblon)

White sand beach


I have always been a frequent visitor to Boracay, my father-in-law being a native of Malay town which has jurisdiction over the island.  During this latest visit, for a change of scenery, my son Jandy and I opted to visit the nearby 28.9 sq. km. Carabao Island, touted as the “Next Boracay.”  This  island, part of Romblon province, was so named because of its carabao shape but is commonly called, by its natives, as Hambil.  It is 3 times bigger than Boracay and can be viewed from Boracay’s Mt. Luho View Deck. Relatively-unknown until lately, the prices of real estate in San Jose, Carabao Island’s only town, which is virtually occupied and owned by its original settlers, is also much cheaper compared to Boracay and foreign investors from the European Union, Taiwan, South Korea and Japan have shown interest in relocating to San Jose after they discovered the island’s white sand beaches and crystal-clear waters said to rival, if not equal, Boracay’s.  Reportedly, investors were also discouraged to find taxes on Boracay Island to be “quite high.” 

Carabao Island seen from Boracay


I wanted to visit this still pristine island before the onset of continuous and uncontrolled Boracay-like development spills over to the island.   This is inevitable as plans are now underway for San Jose to be the site of the Romblon Special Economic Zone and that  work on a modern PhP5 billion international airport with a 4,000 m. long runway, to accommodate large-bodied Airbuses and similar aircraft, is expected to begin.  A boat to the island leaves, once daily, around 7:30 AM, from a landing near the Caticlan Jetty Port.  My co-passengers included a French couple, with their two cute little daughters, and Lanas barangay captain Ms. Emerita Sombilon whom I chatted with along the way.  The boat trip took about an hour, passing by Boracay’s rapidly developing east coast and Puka Beach on the north, the closest part of Boracay to Hambil. We again touched ground on Hambil’s jetty around 9 AM and decided, together with the Frenchman, to walk along the beach to the first resort that came our way: Ivy Vine Beach Resort.  We were welcomed by amiable British couple Graham and Pamela “Pam” Hill who were managing the resort in the absence of owners.   We instantly fell in love with the place and decided to stay, billeting ourselves in two of its 7 fan-cooled rooms with bath.  The resort also has a 3-4 pax dorm.  

Graham Hill of Ivy Vine Resort


After lunch (ordered in advance) at the resort’s restaurant, Jandy and I decided to walk long  the coast as far as our legs would allow, surveying the wonderful and bucolic scenery and the existing tourism infrastructure such as Nipa Hauz and the currently closed Carabao Beach Resort.  There are no jeepneys or tricycles for getting to and from the island’s 5 barangays as the narrow, single-track and partially concrete (but mostly rough) road only allows for motorcycles and mountain bikes.  We bought cool, refreshing drinks and halo-halo at small stores along the road.  

A bucolic scene


Come dusk, I decide to forego going to the town proper which was celebrating its fiesta (the Feast of St. Joseph, the town’s namesake).  Instead, we opted to have a quiet dinner at the resort and chat with Graham, Pam and the guests. It was also an opportunity to view its beautiful, uncluttered sunset which I found to be much better than Boracay’s which is usually obstructed with numerous boats and swimmers.
   

A beautiful Carabao Island sunset

Unlike many foreigners who fell in love with and stayed in Boracay, Graham and Pam fell for Carabao Island.  Graham, a divemaster, manages the dive shop, the only one, so far, on the islandPam helps manage the resort.  Both left high paying but mentally draining and stressful jobs to be in this piece of Shangri-la.  However, old habits still remain as they installed a satellite disk, to watch their favorite English football games, and internet (so far, the only one on the island) to keep in touch with relatives, friends and the latest developments in England.  Still, if things go their way, they plan to make the island their permanent home.  I can see why.    

Hobie Cat Sailing at Taal Lake Yacht Club (Talisay, Batangas)

Taal Lake Yacht Club

After our Taal Volcano hike and press conference at Club Balai Isabel, Bernard and I dropped by, on the way home, at the Taal Lake Yacht Club (TLYC), the “Sailing Mecca of the Philippines,” to try some Hobie Cat sailing, a first for me.  Hobie Cats are small, twin-hulled  sailing catamarans manufactured by the Hobie Cat company.  The club is dedicated to the promotion of sailing through its learn to sail program, and the creation of its Hobie 16 one design racing program.  At TLYC, Bernard introduced me to Commodore Peter Capotosto, TLYC owner, Mr. Joe Hagedorn, Sailing Manager/Membership Coordinator.  TLYC grants memberships to accomplished sailors and rowers.

TLYC, established in 1996 and located on the northern shore of Taal lake, started to build up a successful and competitive Hobie 16 fleet and, today, has over 50 privately-owned or TLYC-owned Hobie 16s that form the core of several events that are undertaken throughout the year.   Hobie Cat 16 is the most popular catamaran ever made and the most competitive catamaran class in the world. The first Hobie 16 National Championship was held at TLYC in early February of 1997 and was held  every first weekend in February till 2003 when it was changed to the end of January to accommodate the Philippine Hobie Challenge dates.  The club’s monthly races take place every second Sunday of every month while the Round Taal Volcano Regatta is held annually  at the end of November..

A Hobie Cat 21SC

The club has a very competitive Hobie 16 fleet and 8 Topper class dinghies for training and recreation.  Topper regattas, held every second Sunday of the month, are open to all.  TLYC is also considered one of the best campgrounds within 1 hour from Metro Manila, with open cabanas and toilets available for member and their guests.  Campers here also have a fantastic view of Taal Lake.  TLYC also offers windsurfing (October-April), kitesurfing, keelboats, sunfishes, lazers, optimists, Hobie 21s (good for groups of 7) and ocean kayaks.  They also offer trips to Taal Volcano.

Sailing away

As the wind was good, Peter allowed Bernard and I used a 21-ft. long, 8.5-ft. wide Hobie Cat 21SC (Sports Cruiser) operated by a sailing instructor.  A lady guest also joined us.  This spacious catamaran, intended for casual sailing,  has a front trampoline, wings, an outboard motor mount and a unique built-in, 68-quart marine grade cooler.  It also has 29-ft. mast and 222 sq. ft. (21 sq. m.) of sail.  The cruise, though short, was exhilarating as we sailed to the cool Taal Lake breeze.  Another “must experience” item scratched from my Bucket List.  This has been a fruitful day.

Taal Lake Yacht Club: Talisay, Batangas.  Tel: (043) 773-0192. Mobile number: (0917) 838-3726.  Manila reservation office: Corinthian Plaza, Paseo de Roxas, Makati City.  Tel: (632) 811-3183 or 811-3283.  Fax: (632) 811-3236.  Website:  www.sailing.org.ph/tlyc and www.tlyc.com. E-mail: peter@sailing.org.ph, peter@tlyc.com or sailphi@i-manila.com.ph.