Category Archives: Sightseeing

Phillip Island – Cowes (Melbourne Australia)

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Cowes

From the Nobbies Ocean Discovery Center, we again boarded our coach for the 15-km. drive, via the Ventnor Rd./C473, to Cowes, the main township and largest town on Phillip Island, for some sightseeing.  Phillip Island Road, the main road of the island, led us into Cowes, becoming Thompson Avenue, the town’s main road.

Facing towards French Island and the Mornington Peninsula, Cowes has a small 2016 population of 4,839.

Check out “Phillip Island – Nobbies Ocean Discovery Center“

Originally known as Mussel Rocks, it was renamed, in 1865, by government surveyor Henry Cox after the seaport town of Cowes on the Isle of Wight, England.

In fact, many of the town’s roads are named after other towns and villages on the Isle of Wight, the island that inspired Cowe’s as well as the town of Ventnor‘s names. A Post Office was opened here on August 1, 1869.

In recent years, Cowes, in the Gippsland region on the northern side of the island, has rapidly expanded in its size with many estates and apartments being built, on what was previously rural farmland, in and around the town. An estimated 70% of the houses here are owned by absentee owners, most of whom live in and around Melbourne.

An ideal base to explore Phillip Island’s many attractions, Cowes is 12 kms. from the famous Phillip Island Penguin Parade at Summerlands, 14 kms. from the scenic Nobbies rock formations and visitor center, 6 kms. from the Phillip island Grand Prix Circuit, 7 kms. from the Koala Conservation Centre and 9 kms. from the peaceful fishing village of Rhyll.

Cowes Beach

We were all dropped off at Thompson Avenue whose distinctive features are Golden Cypress trees (recognized by the National Trust of Australia), planted in the early 20th century, which lines the road for 1 km.

Walking further into commercial center of Cowes, the road began a gradual descent, terminating with a T-intersection at the waterfront. As we approached the waterfront, the density of restaurants, cafes, gift shops, hotels, supermarkets and general retail outlets, all catering to the busy holiday crowds, increased.

At the end of Thompson Avenue was the waterfront boulevard of The Esplanade and the attractive, not too crowded and well maintained Cowes foreshore which stretches between Mussel Rocks and Erehwon Point.

Cheska, Bryan and Kyle among the rock formations of Cowes Beach

The foreshore, consisting of wide expanses of lawn shaded by a mixture of native and cypress trees, complete with barbecue areas, picnic shelters and pathways, slopes down to the clean, sheltered, golden sand Cowes Beach whose inviting waters are popular with swimmers and families. Showers, changing rooms and toilets are all located close to the beach.

Nearby is the Cowes War Memorial, a granite memorial obelisk erected in 1920 in memory of the 13 men of Phillip Island who made the supreme sacrifice in World War One. Names of the fallen from World War Two were added at a later date.

War Memorial

On the beach, opposite the Isle of Wight Hotel (which was built in 1870), is the Cowes Jetty.

Cowes Jetty

Built in 1870, it remains a focal point of the town. At its entrance is an outdoor café.

Its T-shaped jetty structure, the departure point for several ferries and tourist boat cruises, is also suitable for fishing.

Outdoor Cafe

Cowes: Phillip Island, Victoria, Australia.

How to Get There: Cowes is about a 2 hours’ drive, by road to the mainland via a bridge at San Remo, from Melbourne and can also be reached by coach, or passenger ferry from Stony Point on the Mornington Peninsula.

Jiufen Old Street (Taipei, Taiwan)

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The scenic mountain village of Jiufen

After our arrival in Taipei and a deliciously filling lunch at Chien-Yen Shabu Shabu, we all boarded our tourist bus for the nearly one-hour drive to Jiufen (also spelled Jioufen or Chiufen), a small village in the mountains, arriving there by 2:45 PM. The weather was overcast, with some light rain. The town of Jiufen is built into the side of the hills, slightly inland from the Pacific Ocean coastline.

Check out “Restaurant Review: Chien-Yen Shabu Shabu“

Panoramic view of the Pacific coastline

In 2001, the village has been made more popular largely due to its similarity to the downtown in Hayao Miyazaki’s popular, Oscar-winning Japanese anime movie Spirited Away by Studio Ghibli. Jiufen soon became a must visit place among Japanese tourists, with many Japanese travel magazines and guide books about Taiwan introduced Jiufen. However, Miyazaki himself denied that Jiufen was the model city of the movie

The author at the entrance of Shan Yu Hai B&B

The village can be explored in under 3 hours but, as we were pressed for time, Mr. Vincent Chen, our friendly Eagle Tours guide, allotted us just an hour to explore the village. From a viewpoint at the Taiyang parking lot, we had sweeping but hazy views of the mountains and the Pacific Ocean.

Map of Jiufen Village

I, together with Joyce Ventura, explored all the way up to Fushan Temple while Jandy and most of the group explored the bustling, 24-hour, extremely touristy and crowded Jiufen Old Street, a narrow alleyway lined up with small food stalls, authentic tea houses, souvenir shops, and pottery stores.  They got there via Qiche Road, climbing up the long series of stairs that crosses over to the heart of Jiufan.

Check out “Fushan Temple”

The approach to Fushan Temple (top right)

Jiufen Old Street is actually composed of three parallel streets – Jishan Street (which runs along the ridge line), Cingbian Road and Qiche Road.  Jishan Street is the most densely populated with snacks and specialty shops.

Shuqi (or Shuchi) Road, perpendicular to the three, runs up and down the slope of the hill and comprises hundreds of stone steps with many teahouses.

The long, steep and narrow stairway leading to the center of the village

Shops here sell street food such as beef noodle soup, fish ball soup, ice cream peanut pancakes and Jiufen’s famous country snacks such as Ah Lan Glutinous Rice Cake, Taro Glutinous Rice Cake, Hongzao (Oxo Cubes) Meatball, cold or hot Ah Gan Taro Balls,  A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll, Taiwanese Sausages (Wu Di ‘Flower Lady’), Zhang Ji Traditional Fish Balls.  You can also buy locally produced ginger tea and plum wine.

Red lanterns were everywhere….

The century-old, richly decorated and picturesque, multi-storey A-Mei Teahouse, said to be the inspiration behind the Bath House in Spirited Away. Popularly known as the Grand Tea House, it is the most famous structure in all of Jiufen.  Perched on top of a hill, it is strategically located just a little off the main street. From its balcony, it has a picturesque view of Keelung Mountain to the right and northern shores of Taiwan on the left. You definitely need to book ahead if you want to have a tea here.

Souvenir store

Another noted teahouse is the City of Sadness Restaurant, an eatery overlooking the square, where A City of Sadness, another critically acclaimed movie (and the first film to touch on the February 28 Incident of 1947, in which thousands of people were massacred, then a taboo subject in Taiwan) by Hou Hsiao-hsien was filmed.  This film masterpiece bagged the  Golden Lion Award during the 1989 Venice Film Festival.

Railway tunnel

Jiufen was also known as a gold mining town.  In 1890, flakes of gold were discovered by workmen constructing the new Taipei-Keelung Railway and the resulting gold rush hastened the village’s development into a town.

Jandy beside a statue of a miner

During World War II, Kinkaseki, a POW camp for Allied soldiers captured in Singapore, was set up in the town and the POWs here were made to work in the nearby mines.

Mine entrance leading to the Taiwan Sweet Potato Teahouse

After the war, gold mining activities declined and the mine was shut down in 1971 for safety reasons.  A graffiti-filled mining tunnel, located right next to the A-Mei Teahouse, serves as a quaint entrance to Taiwan Sweet Potato Teahouse.

Teahouse at Taiyang parking lot

At Jiufen Gold Ore Museum, you can learn more about Jiufen’s history as a mining town.

Jiufen Police Station

Jiufen Old Street: Jishan Street, Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224. Tel:  +886 2 2496 8978.

Eagle Tours: +886-910-130-180 (Mr. Vincent Chen) and +886-932-013-880 (Ms. Joyce Chen). 

How to Get There: Take the MRT blue line to Zhongxiao Fuxing Station Exit 1, then take bus 1062 to Jiufen Old Street Station. The town is served by buses that run from Keelung, Taipei, etc. The nearest train station is Rueifang Station of the TRA Yilan Line, which is 15 minutes away by bus.

Tai O Fishing Village (Lantau Island, Hong Kong)

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Entrance to Tai O Fishing Village

From the Ngong Ping Village, we walked towards the bus terminal and boarded Bus 21 which leaves about every hour or so for Tai O (Chinese: 大澳) Fishing Village, a short 15-min. (6.7- km). drive via the Lantau Trail Section 4 and Tai O Rd.

Check out “Ngong Ping Village“

This quaint and picturesque fishing town is partly located on an island of the same name on the western side of Lantau Island in Hong Kong. Despite damage by a large fire in July 2000, Tai O is still a tourist spot for both foreigners and residents of other parts of Hong Kong.

The village’s name, meaning “large inlet,” refers to the outlet for Tai O Creek and Tai O River which merges as it moves through Tai O. On the southwest part of Lantau Island, the Tai O River splits to the north (as Tai O Creek) and west.  At this fork lies the island referred to as Tai O.

The village is located mostly on the banks of the Tai O River. Two pedestrian bridges cross the river on its northern and western forks. The western and northern parts of the island, facing the South China Sea, are uninhabited.

For a short time, Tai O was once occupied by Portuguese during the Battle of Tamao (a naval battle, in 1521, where the Ming imperial navy defeated a Portuguese fleet led by Diogo Calvo).

Souvenir items

In 1729, a fort was built at nearby Fan Lau  to protect shipping on the Pearl River. When the British came to Hong Kong, Tai O was then known as a village of the Tanka, a community of fisher folk who’ve, for generations, built their houses on stilts above the tidal flats of Lantau Island.

Dried squid

During and after the Chinese Civil War, Tai O became a primary entry point for illegal immigration for those (mostly Cantonese) escaping from the People’s Republic of China, some of whom stayed in Tai O.  Tai O also attracted people from other Hong Kong ethnic groups, including Hoklo (Hokkien) and Hakka.

Dried fish

Tai O used to be a very important trading and fishing port, but this is a thing of the past. Currently, while many residents still continue to fish, the fishing lifestyle in Tai O is dying out as it barely provides a subsistence income. Though there is a public school on the island, most of its young people move away when they come of age.  Today, tourism seems to be Tai O’s drawcard with the Stilt Village it’s biggest attraction.

The harbor

Upon arrival at the bus terminus, we walked towards the lively, traditional seafood market.  A feast for the eyes (but, perhaps, not the nose), we strolled through its stalls and alleys, checking out the live seafood tanks and the vast array of dried traditional salted fish, shrimp paste, XO sauce, salted egg yolk, laogong bin (husband cake), vegetables (some of which we did not recognize), knick knacks and souvenirs (pearl jewelry) being sold at storefronts.

Boarding our kaido

At the booth of Tai O Boat Excursion Limited, we boarded one its kaidos (small ferry boats that accommodates around 10-12 people) that would take us on an approximately 20-min. tour (which we booked beforehand online) along the river, for a close up view, of activity surrounding the harbor and the daily life in the stilt houses and, then, for a short jaunt into the sea.

Stilt houses along the river

Our ride first took us for a look at the stilt houses (pang uks) right over the waterway. In spite of the houses’ dilapidated look, the village is still a quite scenic and enchanting photographer’s paradise.

The unusual but traditional stilt houses, with its pretty setting on the coast framed by the mountains, is predominant of the old Southern Chinese fishing villages and one of the few remaining places where you can still see them in Hong Kong.

Sun Ki Bridge

All interconnected, they form a tightly knit community that literally lives on the water. There are also cafes and restaurant alongside the river plus some old house boats.

Tai Chung Bridge

After riding around the stilt village, our boat then headed out to the harbor and open sea. Before heading out to sea, we passed underneath the Tai Chung Bridge, a manually operated steel pedestrian drawbridge spanning the narrow creek dividing the town which replaced, in October 1996, a  rope-drawn “ferry,” tended by local Tanka women for over 85 years, which used to be quite popular with visitors. The Sun Ki Bridge, completed in 1979, also connects the village to the mainland.

A pair of fishing boats

As we cruised along the harbor, we saw fishermen coming and going and cleaning and putting away catch and gear, all traces of what this active fishing port used to be. Out at sea, we saw some some beautiful cliffs and rock formations along the coastline of Lantau Island.

The coastline of Lantau Island

Many tourists also come to Tai O to see the sunset and, specifically, to take boat trips to see rare, endangered Chinese white dolphins (also known as “Pink Dolphins”) but it was too early for the former and we didn’t see any of the latter. From afar, we espied the Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HZMB), the cross-border mega bridge linking Lantau with Macau and Zhuhai which, incidentally, official opened on that day.

Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge (HZMB)

Though Tai O is known as the “Venice of Hong Kong” or “Venice of the Orient,” don’t expect too much of a comparison as its stilt house architecture is a far cry from that of the famous and romantic Italian city.

The author

With Lantau Island becoming much more accessible, through new transportation options, and the new influx of tourists to the Big Buddha and Ngong Ping area, things in Tai O are changing fast.  Though still very much a quaint fishing village, sooner or later Tai O cannot escape the inevitable phase of development that is bound to come. Still, Tai O was definitely worth the trip from Hong Kong.

How to Get There:

  • From Central, take the ferry from Central Pier 6 to Mui Wo, then Bus No. 1 to Tai O bus terminus. The bus journey takes approximately 50 minutes.
  • From Kowloon, the easiest way is to get there is taking the MTR to Tung Chung Station, then Bus No. 11 to Tai O. From Tung Chung Station Exit B, take Ngong Ping Cable Car to Ngong Ping Village (approximately 25 minutes) then take Bus No. 21 (HK$6.6 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK14 on Sundays and public holidays) to Tai O terminus (approximately 20 minutes). Sometimes Bus No. 21 fills up quick so, instead of waiting for the next one, consider a taxi (the taxi stands are right next to the bus stop). The taxi ride costs about HK50.At the terminus, walk for around five minutes to the steel drawbridge and then take a stroll along the waterfront.
  • By New Lantau Bus, Tai O can be reached from Mui Wo(Bus No. 1, HK$12 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK20 on Sundays and public holidays), Tung Chung (Bus No. 11, HK$12 on weekdays, for single journeys, and HK120 on Sundays and public holidays) and Ngong Ping (Bus No. 21).
  • There are ferry piers on Tai O, close to Tai O bus terminus. It operates daily as the following routes connecting Tai O with Tuen Mun(Tuen Mun Ferry Pier, service by Fortune Ferry), Tung Chung (Tung Chung New Development Ferry Pier, service by Fortune Ferry) and Sha Lo Wan (operated by Fortune Ferry).

Tai O Fishing Village: Lantau Island, Hong Kong. Boat rides are offered by the locals and you will have no trouble getting on one.  As soon as you get off the bus or as you walk around the market, you will find somebody peddling their services. The boats depart from many points, including the bridge and the main marina, but they all cover the same main spots.  Prices for the boat rides are negotiable.  You are expected to pay about HK20 per adult (half for children) but, the bigger your group, the more leverage you will have.

Ngong Ping 360 (Hong Kong)

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On board the Ngong Ping 360 cable car.  L-R: Bryan, the author, Kyle, Jandy, Cheska and Grace

Our fourth day in Hong Kong was reserved for Ngong Ping 360, which consists of a continuous circulating bi-cable aerial ropeway gondola lift system (referred to by its operators as a “cable car”) ride and a themed Ngong Ping Village, plus its nearby sites such as the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha), Po Lin Monastery, and the Tai O Fishing Village .

Check out “Po Lin Monastery, Tian Tan Buddha “Tai O Fishing Village,” and Ngong Ping Village“

The long queue for tickets at Tung Chung Terminal

From Yau Ma Tei Station, we all took the Tsuen Wan line to Lai King where we transferred to the Tung Chung line (Orange Line) and got off at Tung Chung Station. As we all had an Octopus card (their equivalent of Singapore’s EZ-link card) plus Cheska easily found our way around on the MTR, getting there was a breeze. The whole trip took all of 40 mins., passing 9 stations along the way.

Getting our passes at the exclusive Klook VIP counter

Once we got to Tung Chung station, we followed the signage out of the station (Exit B).  Past Citygate Outlets, we found the Ngong Ping 360 cable car terminal. When we got there, the queue was long, with long waiting times, for those purchasing tickets on the spot even if this this was on a Wednesday afternoon. I could only imagine how bad it can get during peak periods. Lucky for us, Cheska used Klook to get us cheaper cable car tickets.  At the Klook VIP counter, she simply flashed the e-voucher to redeem our physical ticket.

At the shorter queue for Crystal Cabin passengers

Once again, in order to avoid long queues, Cheska got us round trip tickets costing HK$210 each on Klook versus HK$255 on the official Ngong Ping 360’s website (tickets available two weeks in advance) which Cheska found reliable and easy to use, especially with her mobile app.

A set of cable cars

Her choice of the crystal cabin (the cable car with a glass bottom) was deliberate as the snaking queue for the standard, non-glass-bottomed cabin, though a fair bit cheaper, tended to be far longer. This turned out to be true. Both sets of cabins circulate on the same cable but their passengers are segregated by queuing systems at both terminals.

Kyle seated on the transparent, 3-layer, 5 cm. thick glass bottom of our cable car

Past the queue, we got on the cable car.  As they usually try to fit in about 7–8 people per cabin (and standing room for another 7) and our group was smaller than that, a couple joined us in our cabin.

Yat Tung Estate on Lantau Island

It was to be a 25-minute, 5.7-km. (3.5 mi.) ride to Ngong Ping Village.  The system has a capacity of 3,500 people per hour in each direction.

Ngong Ping Cable Car Angle Station

The lift system runs across eight towers (including the stations) with five of the towers located within the country park. From Tung Chung Terminal, our cable car ran across Tung Chung Bay to Airport Island Angle Station on Chek Lap Kok, where it turns through about 60 degrees before returning across Tung Chung Bay.

Ngong Ping 360’s magnificent views

It then ran up the Lantau North Country Park to another angle station near Nei Lak Shan (Nei Lak Shan Angle Station), before finally descending to the Ngong Ping Terminal.

Hong Kong International Airport

It changed direction twice at the two angle stations, one on the south shore of Chek Lap Kok; the other west of Nei Lak Shan within the Lantau North Country Park.

Boardwalk at Lantau North Country Park

Waterfall at Lantau North Country Park

During the 25 minute journey, we had a stunning bird’s eye view, from our windows as well as from our transparent, three-layer 5 cm. thick glass floor, over the verdant landscape of North Lantau Country Park, the South China Sea, the southern shore of Hong Kong International Airport, the Tung Chung valley, Ngong Ping Plateau and surrounding terrain and waterways. As we approached Ngong Ping, we saw The Big Buddha and the Po Lin Monastery.

Kaido cruising Tung Chung Bay

Ngong Ping Cable Car: Runs daily, 10 AM to 6 PM.

A Symphony of Lights (Hong Kong)

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A Symphony of Lights

A Symphony of Lights (Chinese: 幻彩詠香江, SoL)), a daily multimedia light and sound show in Hong Kong setting the harbor ablaze every night since January 17, 2004 (initially with walls of 18 buildings as a performance venue), is an orchestration of music, decoration lights, laser light displays and pyrotechnic fireworks conceptualized, created, and installed by LaserVision.

Victoria Harbor during daylight

According to the Guinness World Records, it is the world’s largest permanent light and sound show. Organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board, the show is held, with good weather, every night at 8 pm Hong Kong Time (UTC+8) and lasts for around 14 minutes. Recognized as one of the world’s most spectacular light shows, it has become the signature icon for Hong Kong, showcasing the vibrancy and glamorous night vista of the city and symbolizing its dynamic energy and contrasting culture.

Promenade Deck

Since December 23, 2005, the Symphony of Lights extended to the Kowloon peninsula (including the Tsim Sha Tsui and Hung Hom). In December 2017, exciting, new elements plus a new musical score entwined with a vibrant and contemporary flavor, performed by the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, were introduced, taking on a new direction and transforming Hong Kong’s cityscape into a true symphony representing its charismatic rhythm.

Promenade Deck

Traditional Chinese flutes and bowed string instruments (such as the erhu), have been interwoven to create a truly distinctive sound, matching Hong Kong’s character of “East meets West.” In 2018, a second phase was launched, expanding the show to even more buildings.

Avenue of the Stars

Iconic buildings on both sides of the harbor, with a myriad of searchlights, lasers, LED screens and lighting, work in symphony and unite to form a harmonious canvas for a sensational multimedia extravaganza for the enjoyment of millions of tourists.  Placed together, this nightly spectacle transformed the Hong Kong skyline into an outdoor audiovisual feast  for the senses.

Victoria Harbor at night

SoL’s source of inspiration is the patterned symmetry of Hong Kong’s skyline, modern metropolitan design, forested mountain terrain and expanse of the harbor, offering a truly all-encompassing visual and sound scape of the its soul. Each participating building is joined into a harmonious and complete canvas by a symphonic approach, working effortlessly together to the beat in unison.

Victoria Harbor at night

The show comprises five major themes (“Awakenings,” “Energy,” “Heritage,” “Partnership” and “Celebration”), taking spectators on a unique journey celebrating the energy, spirit and diversity of Hong Kong.  “Awakening,” symbolizing the genesis and powerful growth of Hong Kong, begins with flashes of laser lights that give life to a nucleus of light-energy which gradually illuminates participating buildings using an array of dancing lights and rainbow color.

Star Ferry

“Energy,” signifying the vibrant energy of Hong Kong, is represented by the display of rising color patterns and the sweeping of the lasers and searchlights energetically across the night sky.  “Heritage,” symbolizing Hong Kong’s colorful heritage and rich cultural traditions, displays traditional lucky red and gold colors across buildings on both sides of the Harbor, complemented by the introduction of music using Chinese musical instruments.

Aqua Luna

“Partnership,” representing an illuminated connection with the opposite side, features a display, scanning across the Harbor, of sweeping searchlights and laser beams reaching out to symbolically connect the two sides of the Harbor into one greater and unified partnership. The exciting “Celebration,” signifying the celebration of the close partnership between the two sides of the Harbor and representing an even brighter future for Hong Kong, brings out a powerful rhythmic display of swirling, kaleidoscopic patterns of lights and beams dancing lively across the Harbor.

The best vantage points at the harbor front areas, where the Show’s music (to tune in to the music, download the show’s mobile app) and narration are broadcast live, are “Avenue of Stars” (on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront near Hong Kong Cultural Center), and on the waterfront promenade outside the Golden Bauhinia Square in Wan Chai.  Sightseeing ferries (i.e. Star Ferry, also check out  harbour cruises), running across the Victoria Harbor, are also good vantage points for watching the show.

Check out “Avenue of the Stars“

There are 47 participating buildings, on both sides of glamorous  Victoria Harbor, with different types of lighting effects included in the show, such as laser, searchlights, LED lights, simple lighting and projection lighting.

The 20 buildings (^ indicates fireworks are included on special days), from east to west, included in Hong Kong Island North Shore (including Wan Chai, Admiralty and Central) are:

The 23 buildings (^ indicates fireworks are included on special days) included in the Kowloon Peninsula are:

  • Star House (from December 23, 2005) – projection lighting
  • Hong Kong Cultural Centre^ (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights, projection lighting
  • One Peking^ (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights
  • Hong Kong Museum of Art^ (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights, projection lighting
  • The Peninsula Hong Kong (from December 23, 2005) – simple lighting
  • Avenue of Stars (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights, LED lights
  • Hotel Panorama^ (from December 23, 2005) – projection lighting
  • New World Centre^ (from December 23, 2005) – searchlights (under redevelopment)
  • Tsim Sha Tsui Centre (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights
  • Empire Centre^ (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights
  • InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong (from December 23, 2005) – simple lighting
  • Hong Kong Coliseum (from December 23, 2005) – LED lights, searchlights, projection lighting
  • The Gateway (with Gateway Tower 5 building combined) – Harbour City (from May 1,  2007) – LED lights, searchlights
  • Ocean Terminal – Harbour City (from June 26, 2007)- projection lighting
  • Langham Place (from June 26, 2007) – LED lights, searchlights
  • 26 Nathan Road^ (from May 1, 2007) – LED lights
  • K11 (from June 26, 2007)- laser
  • Harbourview Horizon All-Suite Hotel (from June 26, 2007)- LED lights
  • Harbourfront Horizon All-Suite Hotel (from June 26, 2007)- LED lights
  • EMax (from June 26, 2007) – searchlights
  • Megabox (from October 1, 2007) – LED lights, searchlights
  • International Commerce Centre (from May 1, 2012) – LED lights, laser
  • Kai Tak Cruise Terminal (from late 2014) – searchlights

The 4 buildings added in Hong Kong Island include:

  • AIA Central(from December 23, 2005) – LED lights
  • Bank of America Tower (from May 1, 2007) – LED lights
  • Standard Chartered Bank Building (from May 1, 2007) – LED lights
  • CCB Tower (from 2014) – LED lights, laser

Symphony of Lights: Buildings both on Hong Kong Island and in Kowloon.  8pm nightly. Tel:+852 2508 1234.  Website: www.tourism.gov.hk. Admission is free. No admission ticket is required.

The show may be suspended during days of mourning, the night of Earth Hour and in emergencies without prior notice. The narration is in English nn Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; in Mandarin on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and Cantonese on Sundays. Special pyrotechnic fireworks, added (since New Year’s Eve of 2007) to the show on the rooftop of participating buildings on both sides of the harbor or on stages off at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, are used during Chinese New Year, Christmas or on special events. When, on any given day, the Hong Kong Observatory issues Tropical Cyclone Warning Signal No.3 or above or a Red or Black Rainstorm Warning Signal at or after 3 pm, the show is suspended for that evening, even if the warning is subsequently rescinded prior to the 8 pm start time.

The mobile application of “A Symphony of Lights” can be downloaded from the following websites:

Spectators can also tune into the music of “A Symphony of Lights” through the dedicated mobile application. 

How to Get to Vantage Points:

  • Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade outside the Hong Kong Cultural Centre – MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui Station, Exit L6. Follow the signs and walk for around five minutes.
  • Golden Bauhinia Square – MTR Wan Chai Station, Exit A5. Follow the signs, take the skybridge to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, and head for the Golden Bauhinia Square.

Baltimore’s Inner Harbor (Maryland, USA)

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Inner Harbor

The Inner Harbor District, a historic seaport, tourist attraction and landmark of the city, is located within walking distance of Camden Yards and M&T Bank Stadium, at the mouth of Jones Falls, creating the wide and short northwest branch of the Patapsco River.

The name “Inner Harbor” includes any water west of a line drawn between the foot of President Street and the American Visionary Art Museum plus the surrounding area within the approximate street boundaries of President Street to the east, Lombard Street to the north, Greene Street to the west, and Key Highway on the south.

The author (lower right corner) walking along the waterfront

The Inner Harbor, with its historically shallow water (prior to manipulation through dredging), was not conducive to large ships or heavy industry and, in the 1950s, suffered from the economic decline with the arrival of container ships after World War II as well as restructuring common to many industrial cities in the United States, ending both its freight and passenger use.

Jandy crossing a pedestrian bridge

To reverse the city’s decline and reconnect Baltimore with its waterfront, the Inner Harbor was gradually transformed with award-winning parks and plazas surrounded by office buildings, hotels and leisure attractions, starting with the adoption of the 13 hectare (33-acre) Charles Center project.

Children frolicking at a fountain

Between 1958 and 1965, Baltimore renewed this center of its business district with office buildings, hotels and retail shops. In 1963, the redevelopment program was expanded to include 97 hectares (240 acres) surrounding the Inner Harbor with corporate headquarters and hotels being built around the shoreline, with a public park and promenade added for leisure activity and community gatherings.

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.

Following the U.S. Bicentennial, other tourist attractions were developed such as the National Aquarium, the Maryland Science Center and the Harbor Place Festival Marketplace (opened on July 4, 1980 and operated by The Rouse Company). The nearby Baltimore Convention Center and Hyatt Regency Baltimore Hotel added to the services, resulting in increased population density and attracting a huge number of tourists.

In recent years, Inner Harbor East, the area along the waterfront to the east of the Inner Harbor (in the direction of Fells Point and Little Italy), has been developed with mixed-use developments incorporating office space, condominiums, street-level retail space, restaurants and hotels.

In the 1970s and 1980s, with the success of the renewal of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, the city became a worldwide tourist destination and a model of urban renaissance, planning and development in cities around the world, influencing more than 100 other cities and winning more than 40 national or international awards.  In 1984, the American Institute of Architects cited it as “one of the supreme achievements of large-scale urban design and development in U.S. history. In 2009, the Urban Land Institute described it as “the model for post-industrial waterfront redevelopment around the world.”

Federal Hill Park

Federal Hill Park (300 Warren Ave.), a former lookout during the War of 1812 and the Civil War located on the south side of the Inner Harbor, allows visitors to take in ​a dramatic view of Baltimore’s cityscape from the top of the hill.

National Aquarium in Baltimore

The National Aquarium in Baltimore (501 E. Pratt St., Pier 3 and Pier 4, Inner Harbor) has a collection of more than 16,500 specimens representing 660 species, with exhibits including a multi-storey Atlantic coral reef, an open ocean shark tank, a 4-D immersion theater, a tropical rain forest, a glass pavilion with Australian wildlife, and a mammal pavilion that holds Atlantic bottlenose dolphins.

Check out “National Aquarium in Baltimore“

Sloop-of-War USS Constellation

The Historic Ships in Baltimore (Piers 1, 3, and 5) features four historic ships permanently docked in the harbor that visitors can climb aboard and experience – the USS Constellation (first launched in 1854, it is the only Civil War-era ship still afloat), USCGC Taney (last fighting ship still afloat that survived the attack on Pearl Harbor), the USS Torsk (a Tench-class submarine, it is the last ship to sink an enemy vessel in World War II) and the Lightship Chesapeake (a U.S. Coast Guard lightship from the 1930s) plus the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse.

Check out “The Historic Ships of Baltimore,” “USS Constellation Museum”  and “USCGC Taney“

Harborplace and the Gallery

Harborplace and the Gallery (Light and Pratt Sts.) are two pavilions with a mix of local and national restaurants and stores, plus Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium (has 500 of Ripley’s trademark “oddities” in seven different galleries, plus a mirror maze and a 4-D movie theater)

Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Odditorium

Maryland Science Center (601 Light St.) has 3 levels of exhibits, a planetarium, and an IMAX theater plus a special exhibit on blue crabs.

Maryland Science Center

Top of the World (401 E. Pratt St.) an observation deck on the 27th floor of the Baltimore World Trade Center, offers sweeping a 360-degree birds-eye views of the city. On the pedestrian promenade outside the building is a memorial to the victims of the September 11, 2001, attacks.

Baltimore World Trade Center

Port Discovery Children’s Museum (35 Market Place), on the site of the historic Baltimore Fish Market, is a children’s museum with a three-story jungle gym specifically designed for kids ages 2-10.

Holocaust Memorial

American Visionary Art Museum (800 Key Highway), a mosaic-clad museum, has a  collection of offbeat, innovative art produced by self-taught individuals, plus free outdoor movies and the Kinetic Sculpture Race.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture

The Reginald F. Lewis Museum of African-American History and Culture (830 E. Pratt St.), the largest of its kind on the East Coast, is dedicated to preserving the stories of the Maryland African American community, past and present.

Baltimore Civil War Museum

Baltimore Museum of Industry (1415 Key Highway), located in an old cannery, holds exhibits on various types of manufacturing and industry from the early 20th century. one of its star attractions is the Baltimore, the oldest surviving steam tugboat and a National Historic Landmark.

Baltimore Visitors Center

The Baltimore Visitor Center (401 Light St.), just north of the Maryland Science Center, has touch-screen kiosks that tell visitors where to go, and staff can help clue you into events happening in the city. It also has public restrooms inside.

Philips Seafood

Power Plant Live! (601 E Pratt St.), the former Pratt Street Power Plant  located 2 blocks north of the Inner Harbor, is an entertainment complex that comes alive at night with bars,  clubs, restaurants and music venues that includes Phillips Seafood, Rams Head Live!,  Hard Rock Cafe (opened July 4, 1997) plus Barnes & Noble and Maryland Art Place (a contemporary art gallery for Maryland artists).

Hard Rock Cafe

Other places to visit here include the Lloyd Street Synagogue (the third-oldest synagogue in the United States, now the Jewish Museum of Maryland), Civil War Museum (President Street Station), Sports Legends Museum at Camden Yards, Dr. Samuel D. Harris Museum of Dentistry (University of Maryland), Babe Ruth birthplace and museum, Oriole Park at Camden Yards (home of the Baltimore Orioles), Camden Yards Sports Complex, Columbus Center (home of the University of Maryland Biotechnology Institute), Bnai Israel (a Moorish Revival synagogue now open as a museum), Holocaust Memorial  (E Lombard and S Gay St.), Lockwood Place, Geppi’s Entertainment Museum (a privately owned pop culture museum at Camden Station opened last September 2006), M&T Bank Stadium (home of the Baltimore Ravens), Royal Farms Arena and the Pier Six Pavilion (a music venue at 731 Eastern Ave.)

Pier Six Pavilion

Blue and white water taxis (US&6-12), from 17 locations, connect passengers from the Inner Harbor to Fells Point, Canton, and Fort McHenry.

Check out “Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine – Birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner

Water Taxi

You can explore the Inner Harbor on a traditional paddle boat (US$12 per half-hour rental) or the colorful Chesapeake Bay ‘Chessie’ Monster (US version of Scotland’s ‘Nessie,’ US$20 per half-hour rental),  both classic childhood favorites. Both boats hold up to four occupants. If you don’t feel like paddling, there’s the electric boat (half-hour rental – US$10 for one person or US$15 for two).

Cheska, Jandy, Grace and Kyle in a Chessie

Visitors can also explore the harbor via the red and purple-bottomed Cruises on the Bay by Watermark (US$6-17) and the larger yacht Spirit of Baltimore (US$42 and up); the bright yellow speedboats of Seadog Cruises (US$20 range) and the wood-paneled pirate ship The Fearless by Urban Pirates (US$20-25).

Spirit of Baltimore

Cruise ships also offer narrated, 45-min. tours of the Inner Harbor where you’ll learn about the city’s maritime and industrial history as well as the resurgence of the waterfront, Federal Hill, and Fells Point.  You can also avail of 60-min. tours focusing on Fort McHenry, 90-min. cocktail cruises and spectacular 60-min. “city lights” tours. 

Kampong Ayer (Brunei)

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Kampong Ayer - The Water Village

Kampong Ayer – The Water Village

This Water Village (Malay: Kampung Air), along the banks of the Sungai Brunei (Brunei River), is an area situated over Brunei Bay that is home to a sizable population of 39,000, representing roughly 10% of the nation’s total population.  The district, a culturally important part of Brunei that preserves the nation’s river dwelling origins, has a unique architectural heritage of wooden homes with ornate interiors.

The mainland jetty

The mainland jetty

Built entirely of stilt houses and wooden walkways, it is the world’s largest water village and the most famous water settlement of Southeast Asia.  One of the most important centers of trade in Borneo, people have lived in Kampong Ayer for over 1,300 years. When the fleet of Ferdinand Magellan visited in 1521, Venetian scholar Antonio Pigafetta dubbed it the “Venice of the East.” Kampong Ayer has been the capital of the Brunei Sultanate for hundreds of years.

The modern-looking, 20-pax bot penambang (covered water taxis)

Boarding our modern-looking, 20-pax bot penambang (covered water taxi)

The author (right) with members of BEAT

The author (right) with members of BEAT (led by president Mr. York Virtucio at left) on board our water taxi

The establishment of the land town, acting as a population magnet, did not lead to its depopulation and arrival of new residents and natural increase maintained the population balance. Most of Kampong Ayer had survived heavy World War II bombardment. Around 2013-2014, smart new, two story stilt houses made of concrete were built in the center of the Kampong Ayer and given to the people in need of a new house but not wishing to live on land. Even today, many Bruneians still prefer the lifestyle of the water village to residency on dry land.

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View of the mainland

The villages on the river’s north bank (the same side as the city center) used to cover a much larger area, but many of the stilt houses have been razed to spruce up the waterfront area around the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

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Entering the narrow waterway

We were to have a personal experience of this heritage as we took one of the many 20-pax bot penambang (modern-looking, covered water taxis) that provide rapid transit daily between the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah, in the center of town, and the water village itself. Our private water taxis resembled a long wooden speedboat. Before leaving the jetty, we all wore life jackets.

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A foot bridge

The Water Village is really made up of a cluster of 42 small, contiguous and relatively cramped stilt villages (kampongs) linked together by more than 29,140 m. of foot-bridges.

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This self-contained, close-knit community consists of over 4,200 structures, including homes, mosques, restaurants, shops, schools and a hospital, all interconnected by maze of 36 kms. of boardwalks. All of the six water village mukims (districts) are collectively known as the water village (Kampong Ayer) but, for administrative purposes, are identified as separate mukims.

mosque

One of two mosques

fire-department

The marine fire brigade

From a distance the water village looked like a slum but it actually enjoys modern amenities. The government, through the District Office, has provided it with numerous facilities including foot-bridges, concrete jetties, piped water, plumbing, electricity, telephones, schools, two mosques, clinics, seafood restaurants, a police station, a museum and a marine fire station.

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A colorfully painted house on stilts

Many of the houses also have air conditioning, satellite television and internet access. Some of the residents even keep potted plants, in container gardens, and raise chickens. They even say that if you look at the main roads on the banks opposite the village, you’ll see luxury cars lined up on the shoulder of the road.  Many of these cars belong to water-village residents.

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A village jetty

The wooden, sun-bleached houses, painted with shades of green, blue, pink and yellow, have not been done-up for tourists. From afar, we could see the 30 km. long Temburong Bridge, which is still under construction (it is expected to be completed in 2019), and the golden roof of the largest residential place in the world, the Sultan’s Istana Nurul Iman.  We made our first and only stopover at a village jetty.  Getting off the boat was an adventure on its own as we had to climb some worn-out concrete steps.

A second mosque

A second mosque

The unfinished Temburong Bridge

The unfinished Temburong Bridge

Upon reaching the top of the jetty, we walked along a treacherous, banister-less boardwalk, some with loose or missing planks, again another adventure by itself. Walking along these planked walkways (a bit of balance is required) while observing the various homes is probably what draws visitors here. However, while the houses were far from squalid, we noticed rubbish floating or carpeting the inter-tidal mud at low tide. For an apparently affluent country like Brunei which could afford to tidy it up, it was disgusting and disappointing.

Climbing the stairs up the jetty

Climbing the stairs up the jetty

We finally arrived at a local concrete home which was way too nice to be anything close to an authentic village house. The entry hall even had a chandelier. Just like in a mosque, we had to remove our shoes before entering.  Inside, there were lots of tourists like us. Obviously, it’s part of the tourist trail.  There, a good refreshment was served – 3 kinds of colorful kuih bingka, a local traditional sweet cake, plus tea. Our snack here capped our Water Village tour and we again made our back to our boat for the trip back to the mainland.

Traversing the wooden boardwalk

Traversing the wooden boardwalk

Removing our shoes prior to entering

Removing our shoes prior to entering

Our tour of the nondescript Kampong Ayer wasn’t really a visit into the past. Rather, it was just a peek into the everyday lives of some very friendly Bruneians while seeing some of the changes that has taken place over the last thousand years or so. Interesting but not amazing. Venice it isn’t by a mile.

Three different kinds of kuih bingka

Three different kinds of kuih bingka

Kampong Ayer: Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei.  Kampong Ayer is accessible by boat or land bridges. To get across the river, just stand somewhere where a water taxi can dock and flag one down (the fare is B$1, one way). To get to these villages from the Yayasan Complex, itself built on the site of a one-time water village, follow the plank walks, behind the Hua Ho Department Store, that lead west, parallel to the river.

Graben Street (Vienna, Austria)

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Graben Street

The exclusive and pulsating Graben, one of the most famous streets in Vienna‘s first district (the heart of the inner city  centre), is one of the most important promenades and shopping streets in Vienna.

Isko, Cheska and Vicky at Graben

It begins at Stock-im-Eisen-Platz (next to the Palais Equitable) and ends at the junction of Kohlmarkt and Tuchlauben.

It is crossed by Wipplinger Straße by means of the Hohe Brücke, a bridge about 10 m. above street level. The origin of this street dates back to the old Roman encampment of Vindobona.

This shopping street and pedestrian area is surrounded by popular alleys, streets and places such as Stephansplatz, Kohlmarkt, Naglergasse, Tuchlauben and Petersplatz.

Vicky and Cheska

Most of the buildings here, where you can find finest traditional shops with a long tradition and already popular in the times when Austria was ruled by emperors, had origins from the 17th and 18th century.

The Palais Bartolotti-Partenfeld, palace of the Barons Bartolotti von Partenfeld, the only Baroque structure on the Graben that has survived to this day, was first erected between 1794 and 1795 by Peter Mollner and Ernest Koch and was rebuilt in 1831 by Josef Klee.

Formerly the site of Leopold Kozeluch‘s music shop, it was acquired in 1894 by Assicurazione Generali who renovated the facade and added a penthouse. The showroom of Knize (a prominent tailor), occupying the ground floor, was built by Adolf Loos. 

Graben-Hof Building

The Grabenhof (also known as the Thienemannhof), built between 1873 and 1874 by Otto Thienemann and Otto Wagner on the site of the old Arkadenhof, is today owned by Österreichische Beamtenversicherung.   Its roof was rebuilt in 1947 by Alfons Hetmanek and, since 1991, the building has been used as a site for cultural events.

Headquarters of Erste Osterreich Spar-Casse

The present headquarters of the Erste österreichische Sparkasse, designed by architect Alois Pichl, had its origins in 1825 when the bank moved into the house at Graben 21. The bank later purchased three neighboring houses, tore them down and, between 1835 and 1839, had their headquarters built.

H&M (E. Braun & Co. Building)

The E. Braun & Co. building, originally constructed in 1887 for an American insurance company (hence an eagle seen on the top of the building), was originally the flagship store of the clothing company E. Braun & Co. (whose name we can still see on the façade of the building).Today, H&M continues the building’s tradition as hosting a clothing business.

Plague Column (Petsaule). The column’s basic message is that the plague and the Ottomans’ Second Siege of Vienna (1683), both of them punishments for sin, were averted or defeated by the piety and intercession of the Emperor Leopold I.

The Plague Column (German: Pestsäule), or Trinity Column (German: Dreifaltigkeitssäule), a Baroque memorial, is one of the most well-known and prominent sculptural pieces of art in the city.This Holy Trinity column was erected by Emperor Leopold I following the Great Plague of Vienna in 1679.

The top of the column

Right next to Graben and just west of the Pestsäule is the Baroque-style Peterskirche (St. Peter’s Church) on Petersplatz, which is largely obscured by the surrounding buildings, and can only be seen clearly from directly in front.The street Jungferngasse cuts through the pedestrian zone and leads directly to the church.

Peterskirche (Peter’s Church)

Begun around 1701 under Gabriele Montani (replaced by Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt in 1703), the church was the first domed structure in Baroque Vienna and its design was inspired by the St. Peter’s Basilica of the Vatican in Rome. Francesco Martinelli was the main architect. It was finished in 1733 and consecrated to the Holy Trinity.

Lowenbrunnen (Lion Fountain)

Two fountains are found on the Graben. Josefsbrunnen, the first fountain, in the southwest, has a statue of St. Joseph and was presumably built in 1561. The Löwenbrunnen (lion fountain), standing on the northwestern end of the Graben, has a statue of Leopold and is decorated with the four lion’s heads.

Statue of Emperor Leopold I

The two fountains were rebuilt, at the behest of Leopold I, with sculptures executed by the sculptor Johann Frühwirth and, later, replaced with lead figures by Johann Martin Fischer. Frühwirth’s statues have since been lost.

Segafredo Cafe

The side streets around Graben, including Dorotheergasse, Stallburggasse and Bräunerstrasse are brimming with boutiques selling Baroque armoires, renaissance chests, footwear, fine carpets, magnificent timepieces, paintings, court perfumery (Nägele & Strubell, etc.), porcelain (Augarten, etc.) and antique court jewelry (Heldwein, etc.).

Dior

Top international labels (Hermes, Mont Blanc, H&M, Escada, etc.) and high end retailers have also zeroed in on this exclusive shopping street.

Giorgio Armani

Unlike other similar streets, shoppers can also take, between shopping trips, a quick respite at quite a number of high-end cafes (Segafredo, Hawelka, etc.) and restaurants (Julius Meinl, etc.).

Burberry

Graben: Vienna, Austria. Shop opening hours: 10 AM – 7 PM, Mondays – Fridays;  10 AM – 6 PM, Saturdays. Some shops open already at 8 or 9 AM and start to close from 6 PM.

How to Get There:Metro U1 and U3 station Stephansplatz.

Train Ride from Salzburg to Vienna (Austria)

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OBB Railjet

After a 2 day/3 night stay in Salzburg, it was now time to make our way to Vienna, Austria’s capital, by train.  As our hotel (Hotel Garni Evido Salzburg City Center) was very near the Salzburg Hauptbahnhof (German for Salzburg main station; abbreviated as Salzburg Hbf and occasionally translated as Central Station), we left early in the morning and just walked going there, with luggage in tow.

Salzburg Hauptbannhof (Salzburg Train Station)

At the station, we boarded the 8:51 AM Railjet (RJ), a high-speed train of the Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) and Czech Railways (ČD). OBB connects all of Austria with its major cities of neighboring countries (Germany, Hungary, Switzerland, the Czech Republic and Italy), at regular intervals, and also takes passengers to Vienna Airport.

Interior of Economy Class coach

We had a choice of comfortable and individually excellent classes of comfort categories – Business Class (includes beverages and a wide choice of snacks, hot towels, a selection of newspapers and magazines, at-seat service and seat reservation), First Class (includes a welcome drink, cold towels and a large selection of newspapers and magazines) and Economy Class (has a railjet trolley service with coffee, cold beverages and snacks). We chose the latter.

The author

Railjet, the premier service of the ÖBB, consists of 7 individual coaches pulled by Taurus high-speed Siemens EuroSprinter electric locomotives and has a seating capacity of 408 persons.  Passengers here have the highest possible levels of comfort – free Wi-Fi, on-board entertainment, an on-board restaurant and children’s cinema.

The author’s grandson Kyle

ÖBB Railjet trains run twice an hour from Salzburg to Vienna, with two stops at St. Pölten (1 hour 41 mins. from Vienna) and Linz (55 mins. from Vienna).  The fast service (travelling at a maximum speed of up to 230 kms./hour or 143 mph), took only 2 hours and 49 minutes of travel.

Rural scenery seen during our journey

During our journey on the ÖBB Railjet, the Passenger Information System kept us up to date, with timetable information displayed on 80 monitors throughout the train and digital maps show you the actual route of our train.

Passenger Information System

The Passenger Information System also has an electronic reservation display so we can easily find our seat.

Wien Hauptbannhof (Vienna Central Train Station)

We arrived at Wien Hauptbanhof (German for Vienna Central Train Station, abbreviated as Wien Hbf) by noontime and were all welcomed by our cousin, Vienna resident Marivic “Vicky” Dionela.

The Original Sound of Music Tour (Salzburg, Austria)

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The Original Sound of Music Tour

The next day, after an early breakfast at our hotel, we again walked to Mirabell Gardens where we joined Panorama Tours “The Original Sound of Music Tour” with other tourists on board an airconditioned bus.  The Sound of Music is a movie based on a successful Rogers and Hammerstein Broadway musical that premiered in New York on March 2, 1965.

Our Panorama Tours bus

Panorama Tours started as Kleinbusse am Mirabellplatz which, for three months during the film’s shooting in 1964, provided six Volkswagen vans for director Bob Wise to transport his 250 stars and staff around.  In the 1970s, the company morphed into today’s Panorama Tours, doing two four-hour “Sound of Music” tours a day, every day, all year.

Check out “Mirabell Palace and Gardens”

During the 4-hour tour, we were to be shown the most important sights in and around Salzburg where the movie was filmed.  It was the biggest grossing musical of all time, if receipts are adjusted for inflation. Because of its core family values, hummable tunes and stunning scenery, the film turned into a worldwide success.

Our tour guide Peter Nussbaumer

Julie Andrews starred as Maria von Trapp, a real-life ex-nun who married Capt. Von Trapp (Christopher Plummer), an Austrian naval officer, after she became governess to his children. Both musical and film are based on the “The Story of the Trapp Family Singers” written by Maria von Trapp in 1949.

Hohensalzburg Fortress

In Austria, the film ran only for a very short period and was subsequently dropped probably because of instances of Nazi complicity depicted in the film which were certainly too much to bear for the Austria of the 1960s, which was forging a new, democratic future for itself. In 1966, the first American tourists started arriving and were asking about the film settings from bemused locals.

Hohensalzburg Fortress as seen from the movie (www.pinterest.com)

Two dozen locations in Salzburg were featured in the film. At Mirabell Palace and Gardens, most of the “Do-Re-Mi” song was filmed. Throughout the trip, our Australian guide Peter Nussbaumer was very funny and made the tour entertaining.  Along the way, we passed by (but did not stop) at Nonnberg Abbey, Hohensalzburg Fortress and Mozart Bridge (Mozartsteg) where a number of movie scenes were shot.

Check out “Hohensalzburg Fortress”

Nonnberg Abbey

At Nonnberg Abbey, they include the opening part where nuns go to mass and Maria returns too late; performance for the song Maria” was staged in the courtyard and the children came to the Abbey’s gate to ask Maria to return to their home.

The Von Trapp children at the abbey gate to ask Maria to return to their home (www.pinterest.com)

The escape scene, with the Nazi cars parked outside the Abbey gate, was also shot in the original spot.

Mozart Bridge (Mozartsteg)

The Mozartsteg, a filigree Art Nouveau iron pedestrian foot bridge over the Salzach River, was built in 1903 by a private group called the Mozartstegverein to connect the Steingasse area to Mozartplatz. It was inaugurated by the Governor of the Duchy of Salzburg and the then Mayor of the city.

Georg Krimml, a wealthy owner of Café Corso, lobbied and donated the funds for its construction to increase customer traffic to his café.  Up until 1920, it was privately owned and you can still see the toll booth (now a tiny coffee shop) on the Mozartplatz side of the bridge. The bridge was used in the sequence, at the beginning of the My Favorite Things montage, where Maria takes the von Trapp children on the picnic in the mountains.  

From Mirabell, a short 4.3 km. (10-min.) drive via Leopoldskronstraße brought us to our first destination – Leopoldskron Palace (Schloss Leopoldskron), a rococo palace and a national historic monument in Leopoldskron-Moos, a southern district of the city. The palace, and its surrounding 7-hectare park, is located on the lake Leopoldskroner Weiher. The grounds, adjacent to those of Schloss Leopoldskron, were one of the main exterior locations and ten outdoor scenes were filmed there portraying the von Trapp home.

Mountain view from the palace

However, the interior of the palace was never used as the Von Trapp villa. Terrace scenes, using a replica of Leopoldskron’s terrace and “horse-gates” that lead to the lake, such as the family drinking pink lemonade (“not too sweet, not too sour, just too… pink!”), Maria and the Captain arguing and the children and Maria falling off the boat into the lake in the famous boating scene, were actually filmed on an adjacent property (known as Bertelsmann, at the time).

Terrace scene at The Sound of Music (www.pinterest.com)

For The Sound of Music, the pathway from the villa to the lake was constructed but was later removed. The statues, as well as the gate, remain.

Liesl at the terrace (www.pinterest.com)

Shots of the building itself, as well as the scene where the Captain watches the children arrive in a boat with Maria, were filmed at Schloss Frohnburg. As the Leopoldskron’s Venetian Room was smaller and too narrow than the ballroom in the film, the decor of the room was meticulously copied and recreated in the 20th Century Fox studios in Los Angeles for the waltz scenes in the ballroom.

The Baroness (Eleanor Parker), Maria Von Trapp (Julie Andrews) and Capt. Von Trapp (Christopher Plummer) at the ballroom

In 1987, the “Sound of Christmas,” a special production starring Julie Andrews, John Denver, and Plácido Domingo was also filmed at the Schloss Leopoldskron. In 2014, the palace, home to Salzburg Global Seminar since 1947, and the neighboring Meierhof building, were opened as a privately owned Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron.

Hellbrunn Palace

From Leopoldskron, a short 4.8 km. (8-min.) drive, via Morzger Str., brought us to Hellbrunn Palace (Schloss Hellbrunn), site of the Sound of Music Pavilion, the glass gazebo setting for the two main love scenes between Liesl (Charmian Carr) and Rolf (Daniel Truhitte), featuring the song Sixteen Going on Seventeen, and the kissing scene (Something Good) of Maria  and Capt. Von Trapp.

The author outside the Sound of Music Pavilion

The scenes were originally situated in the gardens of the Leopoldskron Palace. Only long shots of the Austrian gazebo are seen in the film as the gazebo interiors were shot on a Hollywood sound stage. At the end of the filming, the gazebo was presented as a gift to the city of Salzburg.

Rolf kisses Liesl inside the pavilion (www.pinterest.com)

After their numbers became too big for the business convention center housed there, constant trespassing resulted in it being moved and, in 1991, was reconstructed and shown publicly by the city council in the ornamental gardens of  Hellbrunn.

The tree-lined avenue where Capt. Von Trapp saw his children dangling from trees

Neaby is the tree-lined road leading to the castle where Capt. Von Trapp unknowingly noticed his own children dangling from the branches of the trees, to the horror of their father.

Lake Wolfgang and the town of St. Gilgen in the foreground

After our film-location tour within the Salzburg, we were driven out into the Salzburg Lake District Area (Salzkammergut) at St Gilgen, passing Lake Fuschl and Lake Wolfgang, where panoramic aerial shots and scenes of the picnic were filmed. The Salzkammergut extends over the entire area of lakes belonging to the Alps and Lower Alps and 3 Austrian provinces (Salzburg, Styria and Upper Austria) share this unique countryside. At our photo stop, we had a wonderful view down St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang.

L-R: Kyle, Cheska, Grace and Jandy

Nonnberg Abbey: Nonnberggasse 2, 5020 Salzburg, Austria. Tel: +43 662 841607

Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron: Leopoldskronstraße 56-58, 5020 Salzburg, Austria.

Schloss Hellbrunn: Furstenweg 37, 5020 Salzburg.

The Sound of Music Panorama Tour: Hubert-Sattler-Gasse 1, 5020 Salzburg, Austria.  Tel: +43 662 883 211-0 and +43 662 874 029