Kalibo Town Proper (Aklan)

It was time for Jandy and I to return to Manila and, as we still needed to buy some paint materials, I joined Grace, Marve, Cheska, John Paul and Kyle on their way to Kalibo where building materials were much cheaper than in Malay.  After that, we could all have dinner prior to them dropping us off at the airport.  The hardware was located at the center of town, across Pastrana Park.  While Marve was attending to the purchases, I took time off to explore the the huge central plaza where all major arterial streets in Kalibo intersect.

Kalibo town proper

Kalibo town proper

Around the park are the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, the Museo it Akean, a Jollibee branch; the Gil M. Mijares Bldg., the former old tribunal which now houses Kalibo Police Station, Municipal Library and the Kalibo Sto. Nino Ati-Atihan Foundation, Inc. (KASAFI).

Pastrana Park

Pastrana Park

Across the park is the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The town’s parish was created on September 18, 1581 with Fr. Andres de Ibarra, O.S.A., as its first parish priest.  The church was first built in 1804 but, from 1947-48, a new, bigger and more sturdy church was built.  After an earthquake in 1991, the church was rebuilt from 1993-97 under the guidance of Kalibo Bishop Gabriel V. Reyes.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

The cathedral's modern interior

The cathedral’s modern interior

Adjacent to the cathedral is the elegantly-designed Museo it Akean.  Also called the Aklan Museum, this private museum is housed in the century-old, Spanish-era Estuylahan it Hari (“School of the King”), established in 1882.  Before World War II, it was a movie theater showing silent films and later a building of the Kalibo Institute.  During the war, it was converted into a Japanese garrison.  After the war, it was turned into a trial court sala and a warehouse before it was recently renovated and converted into a museum in 1980.

Museo It Akean

Museo It Akean

The museum showcases the history and remains of the old civilization of Minuro it Akean as well as contemporary local art. On display are talibong swords; wood and metacraft; the memorabilia of Archbishop Gabriel M. Reyes, Jaime Cardinal Sin and Godofredo P. Ramos; pina textiles, paintings of Aklanon artists; jars; pottery; religious relics; furniture; crafts; tools and artifacts from the Spanish era, and literature of Aklan.

Museo it Akean: cor. S. Martelino and Archbishop G. Reyes Sts., Kalibo, Aklan.  Admission: PhP15. Open daily, 8 AM to 5 PM.

Trek to Bomod’ok Waterfalls (Sagada, Mountain Province)

After our early morning sun rise tour, we returned to our jeepney and made our way back to our inn where our breakfast awaited us.  Thus filled, we made preparations for our scheduled hike to the huge, picturesque and impressive 40-m. high Bomod’ok Waterfall (a.k.a. Big Falls), one of Sagada’s most visited tourist attractions. This waterfall flows down to Amlusong Creek to join the Chico River.  Despite 2 past visits to Sagada, this would be a first for Jandy and me.  

Assembled and ready to go

Joining the hike were Ms. Jocie Dimaculangan (our tour coordinator), Ms. Diosa Diaz, Ms. Eureka Joy Bueno, Ms. Joy Tenejero, sisters Jessica and Jasmin Bez, Ms. Long Garcia, Ms. Desiree Benitez, Mr. Donald Danao and couple Lilia and Aldrin Tejada. We left our jackets and bonnets and, instead, donned hats; light, quick-drying sport shirts and jogging pants; slippers and rubber sandals.  I also wore my belt bag while Jandy toted a small backpack with our water and provisions.  We, however, forgot to put on some suncreen lotion.

The trek begins …..

We again boarded our hired jeepney and proceeded on a 20-min. drive to the Tourist Information Center in Brgy. Bangaan where we met our two Kankanai lady guides: Ms. Joanna Tumag and Ms Norma D. Padawil.  There were already lots of tourists gathered at the basketball court, the jump-off point for the trek.  As we were early, there were still a lot of walking sticks available for us to choose from for use during our hike, free of charge.  This supply would be exhausted by noontime.

Bangaan Rice Terraces

After a quick briefing by our guide Joanna, we began our trek by descending down a series of concrete steps carved along the mountainside.  During the initial part of the hike, everyone was in the upbeat and jocular mood, especially our friends Jess, Joy and Desiree.  Halfway through the hike, the heat, thirst, exhaustion and aching muscles would change all that. From afar, we could espy verdant Aguid and Fidelisan Rice Terraces, both chiseled out from an entire huge, rounded spur of a mountain, giving it the appearance of one single work.  

Traditional house in Fidelisan
The dap-ay of Fidelisan

After about 45 mins., we entered the village of Fidelisan, the oldest in town and the heart of Northern Sagada’s villages. Visitors here have to register and pay an environmental fee of PhP10.  Here, we passed by a traditional house and, beside a sari-sari store, a dapay (or ato), an all-important open communal meeting place for male elders made with stone slabs (tourists are not allowed to enter here).  Further out, we noticed a cable line system, powered by a car motor, used to transport gold and copper mine tailings.  Ingenious at best but, sadly, I’m no fan of the destruction that mining, whether small or large-scale, causes to the environment.

The ingenious cable transport system for mine tailings

From hereon, the rest of the hike would be via cross-terrace walking wherein we had to maintain our balance as we traversed a maze of rice terraces via the narrow, meandering paddy walls (locally called pilapil).  This afforded us the opportunity of observing the ingenuity of the terraces up close, including how the rocks were piled one on top of the other (those in Banaue use compacted earth); the efficient irrigation system; and the muyongs, the hydrological system that irrigates these terraces.  The paddy walls are not always open to tourists (especially during obaya or sacred holidays) as it is taboo to disturb the paddies during the weeks when the rice panicles are ripening.

Jandy traversing a pilapil

After a 1.5-hr. hike, we soon espied the top off the towering waterfalls which had a wide and deep pool.  As it was the Holy Week break, the area was packed with local and foreign tourists.   Enough light for sunbathing was still available, it still being morning, but taking a dip had to be done in stages as the water was icy cold.  Some intrepid daredevils made high dives, legs first, from a promontory just below the falls.  

We left the falls by 11 AM and retraced our steps back to Fidelisan.  By now, there were lots of tourists making there way to the falls and we had to wait many a long time for them to pass through as the paddy walls were just wide enough for one person.   It was now noontime and uphill to Fidelisan and we were gasping for breath and taking a few minutes of rest every few steps.  I was dripping buckets of sweat and ready to collapse when we reached the village.

The halohalo stand

Upon arrival, we were saved by the sight of enterprising villagers selling cool and refreshing, one-of-a-kind halohalo (PhP20/glass).  Aside from the usual sago and gulaman, they also added the unusual mango and melon bits and macaroni  with the shaved ice and evaporated milk.  From Fidelisan, we took the right trail to get to Aguid.  There, our hired jeepney awaited us to take us back to town.  

Sunrise Watching at Kiltepan (Sagada, Mountain Province)

Jandy and I were awake by 4 AM as we, as well as the rest of the group, were slated to leave, on a hired jeepney, for  the Kiltepan (named after the 3 bounding barangays of Kilong, Tetep-An, and Antadao) Viewing Tower vantage point, where we were to view Sagada’s famed sun rise. It was very chilly that early morning, so we all donned our jackets and bonnets and made sure we all brought our cameras (in Jandy’s case, his Samsung Galaxy Tablet).  Breakfast would have to wait until our return.  The jeepney ride took all of 25 mins.,   traversing the road leading to Dantay Junction, then turning left towards a winding concrete road then, finally, to Kiltepan Junction, a  bumpy shortcut foot trail leading up to the hill on the right. 

Kiltepan Peak
The sun makes its appearance

It was still dark when we arrived there and the full moon could still be seen in the night sky.  There were already a number on sunrise watchers when we arrived, some bringing along coffee to keep warm together with their cameras and tripods.  Soon, more people arrived and the parking lot was soon filled with vehicles, both private and hired.  Some enterprising Sagadans, taking advantage of the holiday atmosphere, were making a killing selling freshly-baked pastries.  

The crowd of sun rise watchers
Jandy and I watching the sun rise

Soon night passed into day and we had an unusual and magnificent bird’s eye view of layers upon layers of the terraces at Kilong and Tetep-an, right down to the river valley and the Cordillera Mountain range, with the clouds below us.  

View of the rice terraces below us

Above them are the high ridges separating Bontoc from Sagada. We can also see the remnants of a Piltel antenna tower at the 1,636-m. high summit that was struck by lightning.  Then, at the 5:50 AM mark, the sun made its glorious appearance, to the joy of the crowd who had been forewarned that early morning fog can sometimes ruin views of the sun rising.  We were lucky to see the sun rise in all its majesty.

Echo Valley (Sagada, Mountain Province)

After checking in to our rooms at Alapo’s View Inn, we rested for a while then assembled at the ground floor for our guided tour of the lush and picturesque Echo Valley, one of the most popular hikes in Sagada.  Though it wasn’t our first visit (Jandy and I have visited it twice before), it would be the first for most of the group. We conveniently wore shorts and slippers and brought along our jackets, water bottle and my camera.  From our inn, we all entered the compound of St. Joseph’s Resthouse and St. Joe’s Cafe, then crossed the road to the grounds of the Anglican Episcopal Church of St. Mary the Virgin, the oldest church in the Cordilleras outside of Baguio City.  Here, we already noticed the huge number of people also undertaking this introductory tour of Sagada.

Echo Valley and its famed hanging coffins

Further up the St. Mary High School gate, past the basketball court, Centennial Bell and the Sagada Cooperative Store, we climbed paved steps up to the Sagada Cemetery which has 14 Stations of the Cross and is marked with a huge cross.  I asked the guide if he knew where the burial plot of Eduardo Masferre, the famous photographer who died in 1995, was but he was just as unknowing as I was.  Well, maybe next time.  William Henry Scott, the American historian who died in 1993, is also buried here.

Sagada Cemetery
The cemetery has a fine view of the northern valley. Further up the cemetery is Calvary, the cemetery’s highest point.  From Calvary, we went down a narrow, steep dirt path to Echo Valley.  Along the way, we espied, on the left side, a 40-ft. high cliff where the Sagada rock climbing tour is conducted (PhP250/pax).  Sagada, with lots of cliffs and rock formations, is one of the few Philippine destinations that offer the fairly young sport of natural rock climbing.
 
Sagada Rock Climbing Tour
At the valley’s vantage point, some of our companions shouted out loud to hear their echo while others just admired the pleasant scenery.  From afar, we could already see 2 clusters of the town’s famed hollow-log “hanging coffins” or kuongs.
 
Aldrin and Jandy at the vantage point
From the valley, we again made a steep hike down, to the “hanging coffins” located on large limestone cliffs at the opposite side.  The few “death chairs” (sangadil) placed next to the hanging coffins were still there.
 
It was already starting to rain when we made our way back up the valley and the path was already becoming slippery.  Our jackets, made just for cold protection, was soon soaked inside and out and we were soon drenched when we arrived at the church and sought refuge inside.  Here, we waited for the rains to subside before making our way back to the inn.

Mt. Polis (Ifugao)

From the Grand Viewpoint, we proceeded on our way to the provincial capital of Bontoc and made a short stopover at the Mt. Polis Viewpont, along Mountain Province-Ifugao border, a regular peeing and supply stopover for bus and jeepney passengers.  Here, you can find a huge 30-ft. high statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary which ironically stands between 2 giant cellular communication towers.  

Statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The statue was said to have been erected to provide divine protection for the towers by dissuading NPA rebels from lobbing grenades at the facility.  For added protection, there’s also a police detachment that watches over these towers.  

An unusual sign

An unusual sign that I found here reads “DPWH Gender & Development Park.”Gender and Development (GAD) is a program that aims to address the physical needs of motorists along our national road network. Gender-responsive roads have beautified road and road lines, public toilets, visible road signages, informative and directional signs and warning signs (which include reflectorized stickers and paints on guard rails), and concrete pavements to give motorists early reaction time thereby preventing the occurrence of vehicular accidents due to lack of road signs.

Vegetable terraces with Mt. Polis as backdrop

On the south side of the highest point of the road (1,920 m.) is the 2,255 m. summit of Mt. Polis, a birdwatcher’s paradise and home to a tropical, mossy forest.  This should not be confused with the 1,829 m. high Mt. Polis in Sagada, a popular trekking site.  Fresh, really cheap organic vegetables, straight from the farm below us, are sold along the road.  Cheap, freshly brewed but bland upland coffee is also sold at coffee shops (Hannah’s Store, Coffee Hop & Restaurant; Mt. Polis Rolling Coffee Shop; etc.) along the road.  Thick fog usually engulfs the place during the early morning.

Mountain Province boundary marker
Straddling the boundary of two provinces

Pulilan Town Proper (Bulacan)

From Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort, Jandy and I made our way back to Manila via NLEX which we plan to enter via the Pulilan Exit. Along the way, we passed through the center of Pulilan town and made a short stopover there for merienda, parking our Toyota Revo at the plaza in front of the town’s Diocesan Shrine of St. Isidore the Farmer (San Isidro Labrador).  The church was closed during our visit and I could only admire it from outside.

Check out “Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort

Church of St. Isidore the Farmer

During the Carabao Festival (May 15, Feast of San Isidro Labrador), the  church is the site where carabaos (water buffalos) are made to kneel or genuflect with its two front legs as a sign of reverence to the patron saint. Like the Church of St. Augustine from the nearby town of Baliuag, the church is also known for featuring one of the longest Holy Week processions with at least 110 floats.

Check out “Diocesan Shrine of St. Isidore the Farmer

Pulilan Municipal Hall
Museo de Pulilan

From the plaza, we walked, along a side street, to the municipal hall where we had some burgers and soft drinks at a nearby refreshment stand.  Across the municipal hall is the Municipal Trial Court Bldg. which also houses the Museo de Pulilan.

Aguirre Ancestral House, home of Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort

From the town proper, the back of Aguirre Ancestral House (home of the aforementioned Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort) can be seen.  After merienda,we retraced our steps back to the car and proceeded on our way back to Manila.

Embarcadero de Legaspi (Albay)

From Daraga, I made a short stopover at Embarcadero de Legaspi, a major waterfront development fronting the Legaspi City‘s main harbor.  Bernard and I previously had an evening coffee here 3 days before.  The mall is just a short jeepney ride from the Governor’s Mansion (where we stayed overnight).  Located on a 15.477-hectare property on reclaimed land, Embarcadero sits at the foot of Kapuntukan Hill (Sleeping Lion Hill). Owned and managed by Embarcadero Land Ventures, Inc., it is now the Bicol Region’s premier urban mall and shopping center.
 
Embarcadero de Legaspi
This world-class lifestyle hub for tourists and locals is home to retail spaces, restaurants, markets, a host of branded specialty boutiques, a major civic space (Embarcadero Celebration Plaza), a supermarket (Puregold), a classy hotel (Ellis Ecotel), themed indoor amusement center (Playland) and a bowling alley.  Its picturesque, landmark lighthouse, with its beaming searchlight, doubles as the office of the city’s 91.5 Magik radio station.
 
Embarcadero’s signature lighthouse
The seaside area, a favorite hangout place (the mall stays open until midnight), has a host of open-air paluto restaurants where one can sample the freshest seafoods, the well-known Bicol Express and mouth-watering laing, all while sipping a bottle of cold beer, watching the ships’ lights and listening to a live acoustic band.
 
For adrenaline junkies, Embarcadero also hosts the city’s second zip line (the other one is available at Lignon Hill).  To try, climb the lighthouse and zip line 350 m. down, traversing the waters of Albay Gulf, to the other end of the breakwater, getting a magnificent view of majestic Mayon Volcano along the way.  There’s also a seaside go kart track (PhP75 per 2 laps inclusive of protective gear), jetskis (Php1,200 for 15 mins.), environment-friendly Segway PT (PhP200 for 15 mins.) and E-tricycles for rent (PhP50 for 2 pax per 15 mins.)
 
Embarcadero de Legaspi: Port Area, Victory Village, Legaspi City, Albay.  Tel: (052) 481-1000.
 
Rides to Embarcadero de Legaspi, via brightly-colored, eco-friendly electronic E-jeepneys and E-tricycles, are available at the Battle of Legaspi Monument.  There’s also a free shuttle inside the mall.

Cagsawa Ruins (Daraga, Albay)

From Lignon Hill Nature Park, we next drove down to the nearby town of Daraga.  About 3.5 kms. northwest of the town, 500 m. north of the highway, we entered the Cagsawa Ruins, a place I first visited 7 years ago during a stopover on our way to Naga City (Camarines Sur).  Much has happened since my first visit.  In 2006, mud flows from Mayon Volcano, triggered by typhoon Reming (international name: Durian) buried 8 villages in the town (killing at least 1,266 people) and we passed many ruined and buried homes.

The Cagsawa Ruins

Still, the Cagsawa Ruins, the most visited and photographed site in all of Albay, remains as it seemed during my last visit, the big difference being my classic, postcard view of Mt. Mayon’s perfect cone wasn’t obstructed by swirling afternoon clouds. The blackened church bell tower (or belfry), as well as the broken down walls of the priest’s house and municipal building (all destroyed during the February 1, 1814 eruption that killed 1,200 townspeople), have still withstood the test of time and the elements.  

Other ruins at the site

Something I never noticed before was a mini-resort with rental cottages  and 2 modest-size swimming pools (adult and kiddie) to the right of the ruins. This begs the questions “Why build a resort at  the very site where thousands have died while escaping the wrath of the volcano?”  “Did they dig up skeletons when they dug the pools?” The resort owner who built it was somehow unmindful of the sacredness of the place.

The swimming pool beside the ruins.  “What were they thinking?”

Right outside the ruins were a chain of souvenir shops selling a colorful assortment of locally produced products such as bags and baskets; Tiwi ceramic ware;  furniture (wicker chairs, sala and dining sets, etc.); Tabaco cutlery items (bolos, knives, grass cutters, etc.), arts and crafts made from Mayon’s ashes, hardwood, abaca and shells; exotic flowers and orchids; T-shirts with different designs; and native food delicacies such as kuyog, pili nut confections (salted, sugar-coated, etc.), canned pinangat, and sweet pineapple wine. Restaurants on the site also offer bicol express (a spicy shrimp dish with coconut cream), inasal na sira (grilled fish) among other dishes. 

Cagsawa Ruins: Brgy. Busay, Daraga. Admssion: PhP10. Parking fees: trucks and buses (PhP20); cars (PhP15) and motorcycles and tricycles (PhP5). 

Lignon Hill (Legaspi City, Albay)

Mayon Volcano

After an early morning breakfast at Villa Isabel Hotel’s restaurant, I packed up for my trip back to Legaspi City  where I was to take the 1:20 PM Zest Air flight back to Manila.  Bernard stayed behind as he had other business to attend to in Sorsogon City.  I took a tricycle to the national highway where I boarded a Legaspi City-bound van which left by 8:30 AM.  I arrived at the Legaspi City Satellite Bus Terminal by 10 AM.  

Legaspi City Satellite Bus Terminal

Here, I was picked by Ms. Danica Pontejos, a staffer from Mr. Marti Calleja’s Bicol Adventures, and her driver.  As it was still early in the morning, I still had 2 hrs. to tour the city and Daraga town prior to being brought to the airport and Marti was kind enough to let me do so.   First in my itinerary was, fitfully, the Lignon (pronounced as lin-yon) Hill Nature Park, one of the city’s famous landmarks and the highest location in the downtown area.  The trip up the paved zigzag road of the 156-m. high hill took less than 10 mins. (the hike up takes 45 mins. to an hour).

Lignon Hill Nature Park

For years, the hill was known for its PHIVOLCS observatory at its southwestern slope and the old lighthouse at its summit.  Today, it is known for its view deck where I had a panoramic, 360-degree view of Legaspi City (and its airport runway, 11 kms. southeast of the volcano’s summit), Daraga and Albay Gulf.  Best of all, as it was early in the morning (the best time to visit), I had a spectacular view of the world famous Mayon Volcano and its breathtaking perfect cone in all its naked glory. During my first visit to the city almost 7 years ago (http://firingyourimagination.blogspot.com/2005/07/albay-mayon-volcano.html), my afternoon view of the volcano was shielded by swirling clouds. In the late afternoon, you can watch the sunset and, in the evening, the city lights of Legaspi.

Aerial View of Legaspi City

For sightseers and guests, the hill also has a landscaped promenade with restaurants and shops.  For the adventurous, there’s also a 320-m. long zip line where one can soar through the air harnessed to a cable.  Other adventure activities and extreme sports offered include hiking, mountain biking (on the gullies at the foot of Mt. Mayon), rappelling 150 ft. down, paintball, riding 4-wheel all terrain vehicles (ATVs, c/o Your Brother Travel and Tours) and, soon, airsoft.  You can also take the super steep route up the hill via the Kapit Tuko Trail or explore a 50 ft. long Japanese tunnel.

View of Airport Runway

Lignon Hill Nature Park: off Binitayan Rd. (behind Albay Park & Wildlife). Open daily, 8 AM-11 PM. Admission: PhP10 (educational tour rate) and PhP20 (foreign visitors and non-Albay residents), 5- 9 AM free of charge for regular joggers. Zipline off season rates: PhP250 (basic) and PhP350 (advanced – superman).  Rappelling rates: PhP200 (off season) and PhP250 (peak season).  
Your Brother Travel and Tours: ATV rates: PhP1,800/hour (150cc) and PhP2,500/hour (500cc or buggy). Tel: (052) 820-3629.  E-mail: yourbrothertravevandtours@yahoo.com.    

Cagraray Island (Bacacay, Albay)

From Viento de Mar Beach Resort, we made our way back to the Bacacay municipal hall where we our driver and the Isuzu Crosswind was waiting to bring Bernard and I to the 5-hectare, Class “AAA” Misibis Resorts, Estate and Spa.  Opened in late 2009, this resort is located on the southeastern tip of Cagraray Island and is being touted as the “Boracay of Bicol.”   The island itself is an eco-tourism destination with rich limestone deposits, waterfalls and 28 caves (ancient burial jars were found in 2 of these caves).  Joining us as guide was Mr. Patricio Bechayda, the Fishery Law Enforcement Team (FLET) officer of Bacacay.

Sula Channel

This 71-sq. km., low island is a 20-km. (45-min.) drive from the town.  The fine, white sand Misibis Beach (Brgy. Misibis), one of the town’s 11 white sand beaches, is located on the island’s southeast corner. From the mainland, we crossed over the narrow Sula Channel  to the island via the newly-built,  2-lane Sula Delta Bridge.  Built at a cost of PhP150 million, this bridge is 265 m. long, has 5 spans and was built with modular steel paneling (Delta) with steel decking.  Prior to its construction, motorized bancas and cable cars on a hill, both used to transport people, and barges (for cars) were used to cross over to the island.  During bad weather, the placid Sula Channel was used in olden times as a sanctuary by Acapulco (Mexico)-bound galleons.

Sula Delta Bridge

Past the bridge, the road is lined with eco-friendly solar cell-powered street lamps.  Along the way, we made a short stopover at a covered concrete view deck with a fantastic view of Lagonoy Gulf and the islands of Rapu-Rapu, San Miguel and Agutaya.  We also passed a roadside fishpond with 3 native-style cottages raised on stilts, all connected to the shore by a wooden footbridge.

Bernard and Mang Patricio at the view deck
View of the islands of Lagonoy Gulf

We didn’t have time and the permit (the resort charges a substantial entrance fee) to explore the resort’s 37 luxurious, Asian-inspired villas, swimming pools and small beach.  Instead, we dropped by the 100-hectare Misibis Bay Eco-Park, part of the Misibis Bay Complex just adjacent to and outside the perimeter fence of the beachfront property.

The Eco-Park’s Information Hut

Past its gate is the Information Hut (with its man-made waterfall) and the picturesque, open-air mini-amphitheater, perched on the edge of a cliff, with its stunning backdrop of a shimmering bay and  its surrounding greenery.  The amphitheater was featured in the 5th leg, Philippine pit stop of the 4th season of The Amazing Race Asia which was won by a team from the Philippines.  It was also a shooting venue for the telenovela Dulo ng Walang Hanggang.

The mini-amphitheater

Further up the hill is the Eco-Energy Park Adventure Zone.  It has 4 different zip lines, an obstacle course and a towering climbing wall for adrenaline junkies.  Each zip line differs from the other in length, speed, duration and view.  However, all are exclusively for the use of resort guests.

The Adventure Zone

Eco-Energy Park Adventure Zone: open Mondays to Fridays, 8-11 AM and 1-5 PM; Saturdays, 8-11 AM and 1-3 PM.  Holidays by special arrangement.  Admission: PhP25/pax.