The Road to Versailles (France)

Versailles

The whole morning of our last whole day was reserved for the famous Palace of Versailles (Château de Versailles or simply Versailles), a royal château in Versailles, a wealthy and chic suburb of Paris, some 17.1 kms. (10.6 mi.) southwest of the French capital, in the department of the Yvelines, Île-de-France region of France.

Check out “Versailles Palace

From Hotel Ibis Gare de l’Este, our home for our 4-day stay in Paris, Grace, Manny, Jandy, Cheska, Kyle and I walked to its nearby namesake train station where took train (RER line C) for the one-hour trip to Versailles, which includes a 15-min. transfer at Saint Michel. Upon arrival at Versailles Château – Rive Gauche train station (the closest one of the Palace), we  just walked for 10 mins. to the Palace Gate.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Ibis Paris Gare de l’Est 10th

The de facto capital of the Kingdom of France for over a century (1682 to 1789) before becoming the cradle of the French Revolution,  the 26.18 sq. km. (10.11 sq. mi. or 6,469-acre) Versailles  became the préfecture (regional capital) of the Seine-et-Oise département in March 1790, then of Yvelines in January 1968. It is also the seat of a Roman Catholic diocese (created in 1790) and home to the Académie de Versailles, the largest (by its number of pupils and students) of France’s 30 nationwide académies (districts) of the Ministry of National Education.

Versailles-Château–Rive Gauche Station

By the standards of the 18th century, Versailles was a very modern European city. Born out of the will of King Louis XIII, the city has a rational and symmetrical grid of streets which was used as a model for the building of Washington, D.C. by Pierre Charles L’Enfant.

Though Versailles’ primary cultural attraction is the Palace, with its ornately decorated rooms and historic significance, plus its garden the town, also has other points of cultural notability.  Its position as an affluent suburb of Paris has meant that it forms a part of the Paris artistic scene.

On our way to the Palace of Versailles, from the RER station, we cannot help but notice the grand Hotel de Ville. Originally a gathering place for the Palace visitors, this is now the Town Hall of Versailles. The building, as it stands today, was built at the turn of 20th century. Its construction, decided in 1897 by order of the then mayor Édouard Lefebvre, was entrusted to the architect Henri Legrand who won the competition (the architect Jean Bréasson also took part in it) launched in 1897.

Jandy, Grace and Cheska (with Kyle) approaching the palace grounds

With a budget of 1.2 million francs, work began on March 1898 and the town hall was inaugurated on November 18 1900. On June 24, 1900, the building was fully electrified.

City Hall (Hotel de Ville)

The town hall is made up of two distinct parts. The first part (western wing), along the Rue du Général-de-Gaulle, across the palace, was the first town hall installed in 1790 in the old hotel de Conti.  Preserved but completely transformed, it is a low-rise building preceded by a wide staircase.  Its bell tower, deemed too high, was demolished in 1945 while the gates of the main courtyard disappeared. It features wood paneling and paintings dating from the 18th century.

ANECDOTE: During the time of King Louis XIV, the king did not want to see any building in Versailles higher than his bedroom.

After the French Revolution, to prove the supremacy of the republic over the monarchy, the Hotel de Ville was said to have been built so as to get the first floor above the level of the King’s bedroom in Chateau de Versailles.

The second, opening onto the Avenue de Paris around a main courtyard surrounded by gates, is the imposing, Neo-Louis XIII  building by Henri Legrand. Topped by a bell tower overlooking the city, the campanile supports, at its base, a 1.6 m. diameter floral clock.

Floral Clock

A memorial, sculpted by Albert Guilbert and Ernest Henri Dubois, commemorates the residents of Versailles who died in the First and Second World War and the wars in Indochina (1946-1954), Algeria (1954-1962) and Afghanistan.

War Memorial

Hotel de Ville: 4 4 Avenue de Paris , 78000 Versailles, France. Tel: +33 1 30 97 80 00

Seine River Cruise (Paris, France)

Seine River Sightseeing Cruise via Bateaux Parisiens

After our morning tour of the Eiffel Tower, we made our way, by foot, to the boat docking station at Port de la Bourdonnais where we hopped aboard a popular and modern Bateaux Parisiens glass-topped trimaran  to embark on a quintessential, scenic and leisurely cruise along the Seine riverbanks.

Port de la Bourdonnai

Bateaux Parisiens trimaran

All aboard …..

Bateaux Parisiens has a fleet of four trimarans, three named after legendary French actresses (Catherine Deneuve, Isabelle Adjani and Jeanne Moreau) and another after a French businessman (Pierre Bellon). They each hold up to 600 passengers.

The author

Our trimaran, with terrace and exterior passageways, was well equipped, clean and well maintained, with plenty of outdoor seating at the upper deck.

Jandy and Grace

The company also has nine smaller boats, some of which are used for dinner cruises and private events.  They offer high priced lunch and dinner, to the sound of the resident band, with a choice of four different a la carte menus, on separate restaurant boats.  All boats follow the same 12-km. long route.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Eiffel Tower

Louvre Museum

The Grand Palais, a large historic site, exhibition hall and museum complex located at the Champs-Élysées, was built in the style of Beaux-Arts architecture.

Check out “Louvre Museum,” “Notre Dame Cathedral” and “Eiffel Tower

A fantastic introduction to the highlights and magic of Paris, we soaked up the passing sights of iconic, world-famous monuments and landmarks as we cruised up and down  the Seine River.

Musee d’Orsay

National Museum of the Legion of Honor and Orders of Chivalry, created in 1925, displays a history of France’s honors, medals, decorations, and chivalric orders from the time of King Louis XI to the present, including Napoleonic souvenirs and more than 300 portraits. A special section is dedicated to foreign orders. Its library and archives contain more than 3,000 works.. Located beside the Musee d’Orsay, it is housed within the Hôtel de Salm, built in 1782 by architect Pierre Rousseau for Frederick III, Prince of Salm-Kyrburg.

Registry of the Paris Commercial Court

Check out “Musee d’Orsay

On the left bank are the Notre Dame Cathedral, the National Museum of the Legion of Honor and Orders of Chivalry, Conciergerie, National Assembly, Les Invalides, the Institut de France, and the Musée d’Orsay.

Paris City Hall, the headquarters of the municipality of Paris since 1357, serves multiple functions, housing the local administration, the Mayor of Paris (since 1977), and also serves as a venue for large receptions.

Institut de France, a French learned society, groups five académies (including the Académie Française). It manages approximately 1,000 foundations, as well as museums and châteaux open for visit..

On the right bank, during the return trip, are the Louvre,  the Grand Palais, the Obelisk at the Place de la Concorde, Tuileries Garden, the Paris City Hall, and the Eiffel Tower.

The Conciergerie Paris, located on the west of the Île de la Cité, was formerly a prison but is presently used mostly for law courts. During the French Revolution, hundreds of prisoners were taken from the Conciergerie to be executed by guillotine at a number of locations around Paris.

We also glided beneath beautiful historic bridges (37 bridges span the river), including the famous Pont Neuf. Even the Seine riverbanks, collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991, are a sight to behold.

Check out “Bridges Along the Seine River

Hotel Dieu, a hospital located on the Île de la Cité, on the parvise of Notre-Dame, is the oldest hospital in the city and the oldest worldwide still operating. Ravaged by fire several times, it was rebuilt for the last time at its present location between 1867 and 1878, as part of Haussmann’s renovation of Paris.

After half an hour, our boat turned around and cruised back up along the opposite bank. Our 1-hour cruise ends back at the original departure point near the Eiffel Tower.

The Palais Bourbon serves as a meeting place of the French National Assembly, the lower legislative chamber of the French government. It is located on the left bank of the Seine, across from the Place de la Concorde.

Bateaux Parisiens: Pontoon 3, Port de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris, France. Tel: +33 825 01 01 01 and +33 1 76 64 14 66.  Open 9:30 AM – 10 PM. Website: www.bateauxparisiens.com. Admission: adults (€15), children under 12 yrs. (€7), free for children under 3 years old. Ticket will be valid for one year at any given time. Departures: April to September (from 10:15 AM -10:30 PM, every 30 mins., no departures at 1:30 PM and 7:30 PM), October to March (from 11 AM -8:30 PM, at least every hour). Book online in advance to avoid queues. The boat also departs from Notre Dame Cathedral. Audio guide commentary with musical accompaniment, from a handset, available in 13 languages (English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, American, Russian, Dutch, Polish, Chinese, Japanese and Korean). Smoking is not allowed on the boat and animals are not permitted on board.

How to Get There: Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel (RER C) 5 . Nearest metro: Trocadero or Bir Hakeim

Mt. Tapyas (Coron, Palawan)

 

Mt. Tapyas

Mt. Tapyas

On our third and last day in Coron, Aylin, Issa and I were awake by 5 AM, just in time for us to make it to the town proper, via van, were we hoped to catch the sunrise atop the 210 m. (689 ft.) high Mt. Tapyas, the second highest in Coron.

Mt. Tapyas and its lighted steel cross

Mt. Tapyas and its lighted steel cross

From Ligaya Pier, we could already view the mountain, prominent for its giant steel cross (lighted at night) on its peak. Tapyas, in English, literally means “shaved off” or “chipped” because, during the Liberation, one side of the mountain was literally chipped when American forces bombed the Japanese camp on top.

The concrete stairway

Aylin making her way up the concrete stairway

Mt. Tapyas is not what you might expect as a mountaineering destination. It’s already been developed by the local government to give easy and more convenient access to tourists. Instead of hiking through typical mountain trails, trekkers only need to go up flights of some 724 concrete steps, with metal handrails, to the spacious view deck with concrete benches, just the right amount for a little cardio workout.

Typhoon Yolanda damage

Typhoon Yolanda damage

A typhoon damaged refreshment stall

A typhoon damaged refreshment stall

Our van dropped us off at the base of the stairs, just beside a community basketball court. Going up the mountain on our last morning in Coron, we encountered some groups striding up and down the mountain with minimal effort. Surely, they must be locals.

A repaired resting shed

A recently repaired shaded rest stop

For city slickers like us not used to much walking, we had a hard time “conquering” the mountain. However, there were plenty of landings with shaded benches and picnic tables where we took a breather.  However, many of these  still showed damage from super typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan)  which also devastated Coron on November 8, 2013.

Nearing the top

The huge CORON signage

Since it was still very early in the morning, it just took me around 15 to 20 mins. to reach the top.  Once there, the view was amazing. We were treated with a breathtaking panoramic 360-degree view of some of the offshore islands and the surrounding mountains, especially the mountain that they call the “Sleeping Giant.”

The Sleeping Giant

The Sleeping Giant

We also saw the whole of Coron town and appreciated its simplicity. There are two octagonal gazebos at the back but we didn’t go there anymore.  Instead, we made our way back down the mountain.  Our van just arrived, minutes after making it to the base of the mountain, and brought us back to Asia Grand View Hotel.

The steel cross

The steel cross

For first-time visitors to Coron town, it’s highly recommended that they go up Mt. Tapyas. It’s best to climb it early in the morning, to see the sunrise, or before night falls to see the sun setting on Coron Bay

Mt. Tapyas (32)

The gorgeous view

The gorgeous view

The spacious view deck

The climb may be grueling, but the gorgeous views atop the mountain make it a great experience truly worth the effort. There are refreshment stalls and vendors that sell bottled water, energy drinks and juice drinks. For those who get regular weekly exercise, this trek should be a breeze.

Watching the sun rise

Watching the sun rise

How To Get There: From the town, entry to the steps to Mt. Tapyas is very accessible. From the main road, just look for the landmark Iglesia ni Cristo Church and San Agustin Street (which turns into the slightly sloping Malvar Street) which leads the way to an elevated basketball court at the base. Road signs point directions to Mount Tapyas view deck.

How to Get to Coron: Skyjet Airlines has 4 times weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, 10:30 AM) flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Coron (Francisco Reyes Airport).  Travel time is 30 mins.   

Asia Grand View Hotel: Governor’s Ave., Jolo, Brgy. 5, Coron, Palawan.  Tel:(+632) 788-3385. Mobile number: (0999) 881-7848. E-mail: gsd@asiagrandview.com. Manila sales office: Unit 504, Richmonde Plaza, 21 San Miguel Ave., Ortigas Center, Pasig City.  Tel: (+632) 695-3078 and 531-8380.  Mobile number: (0917) 550-7373 to 75 Fax: (+632) 695-3078.  E-mail: info@asiagrandview.com. Website: www.asiagrandview.com. 

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

The mangrove-lined Sabang River

The mangrove-lined Sabang River

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

After our SabangX Zipline, we were next slated to do the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour, another activity offered and sponsored by Sheridan Resort & Spa.  The mangrove paddleboat cruise offers an educational tour of the mangroves at PhP150 per person. From the zipline landing area, we walked towards the edge of the beach to the mouth of the 4 km. long Sabang River where it flowed out into the West Philippine Sea. At the end of the path, we arrived at Michi’s Cottages where we saw the office for the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour where we registered our names.  We were the last group to avail of the tour.

Start of our tour

Start of our tour

At the river bank, we boarded a paddle boat made of fiberglass.  Joining PJ, Joy, Charmie, Lester and I were Mr. Nestor Elijan, our mangrove paddleboat tour guide, plus a paddler who would propel our boat with an old-style wooden pole that has one broad flat end. For safety purposes, we were each provided and requested to wear standard life vests.  As it was already late in the afternoon, we no longer brought along umbrellas to repel heat from the sun.  The tour lasts from 45 mins. to 1 hour.

Tangled roots of mangroves

Tangled roots of mangroves

Hanging roots

Hanging roots

As our boatman started paddling through the brackish but serene river water that reflects the tall mangrove trees and their beautifully intermingled protruding roots, Mang Nestor explained the importance of these century-old mangroves (locally called bakawan, from the Tagbanua tribal word bakhaw) in the marine and forest ecosystems. Palawan contains 43% of the total mangrove forests in the country and Puerto Princesa City is one place where the total area of mangrove forests is increasing and not decreasing.

Limestone rock formations along the riverbank

Limestone rock formations along the riverbank

Mangrove ecosystems like the one in Sabang, breeding grounds to pelagic fishes, also serve as habitats to a collection of mammals, reptiles and amphibians as well. The mangrove forest, a buffer zone between the land and the sea, breaks the waves before it reaches the land and also serves as a blocker for the strong winds during a storm, thus protecting the coast against erosion. Mangroves also filter bad elements of the land such as insecticide and other chemicals and trash. This protects the coral reefs and sea grass beds from being covered by the debris which block sunlight reaching them.

Tour guide Mr. Nestor Elijan

Tour guide Mr. Nestor Elijan

A former park ranger who watched over Sabang’s environs and went after illegal loggers and poachers, Mang Nestor is also a self-taught mangrove scientist who can identify the different kinds of mangroves, along with the scientific names, at a drop of the hat, and tell whether this or that bakawan is male or female through their leaves.  A number of mangrove species that can be found here are the Rhizopora apiculata (locally called bakhaw lalaki), Rhizophora mucronata (known as the loop-root mangrove or the red mangrove, it is found on coasts and river banks and Bruguiera gymnorrhiza. Mang Nestor talked about “true mangroves,” those that thrive only in mangrove environments, and “mangrove associates,”those that grow in the periphery of mangrove wetlands. There are also mangrove trees that are parasitic, “swallowing” another mangrove associate, depriving it of its share of sunlight and soil.

Mangrove Snake

Mangrove Snake

Along the way, we got a number of close encounters with sleeping Mangrove Cat Snakes (Boiga dendrophila), a 6 to 8 ft. long, elegant but mildly venomous colubrid snake with black and yellow bands, curled around branches of the overhanging mangrove trees.  Mang Nestor told us not to worry, as long as you don’t disturb them they won’t jump. Midway through the tour, our paddle boat passed a makeshift wooden platform with a charming bamboo boardwalk, built over sinuous mangrove roots that led to the bird watching area.

Bamboo boardwalk

Bamboo boardwalk

As we followed the river deeper into the forest, the river narrowed and became shallower and the mangroves stood very high above the ground, its natural canopy shielding us from the sun’s mighty reach.  Somehow, I felt I was in an Amazon forest. On shallower parts of the river, the water spans wider through the forest grounds where roots of the mangroves grow on.

Monitor lizard

Monitor lizard

We saw other mangrove creatures such as a long-tailed macaque, water monitor lizards (Varanus palawanensis, locally called bayawak), mudfish (locally called dalag) and mangrove and cattle egrets. Other mangrove denizens we didn’t see include mudskippers, crabs, oysters, hornbills, ruddy and stork-billed kingfishers, Palawan bearcats (locally called binturong), clawed and clawless otters, pangolin or scaly anteater, mayna, and skunks (locally called pantot).

Dead mangrove tree trunks pockmarked with tamilok holes

Dead mangrove tree trunks pockmarked with tamilok holes

On our way back, our paddler alighted among the mangroves to look for some driftwood bored by tamilok (shipworm), a marine bivalve mollusk that bores into submerged wood. Back at the receiving area, he hacked open the wood to reveal two small worms (according to Mang Nestor, they sometimes reach a length of 2 ft.).  While considered a pest in other countries, the tamilok is a delicacy in these parts and, when dipped fresh in coconut vinegar, are said to taste like oysters. Andrew Zimmern, in one of his episodes in Bizarre Foods, enjoyed eating one of these.  However, harvesting the tamilok for commercial purposes isn’t allowed, as this would affect the mangrove’s ecosystem.

Our paddler looking for tamilok

Our paddler looking for tamilok

Normally, at the end of the tour, visitors are given a chance to contribute to conservation by planting some mangrove saplings in a designated planting area, so that when it becomes a seedling they would move it deep within the forest. The Mangrove Paddleboat Tour, so peaceful and relaxing, was a totally worthwhile experience.  I hope that those who visit Sabang to see the Underground River would include the Mangrove Paddleboat Tour in their itinerary.

A pair of tamilok

A pair of tamilok

Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour: Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.  Mobile numbers (Mrs. Norma Ortega): (0912) 322-3665 and (0926) 829-3095.  E-mail: bingo032374@yahoo.com.

Office for the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour

The Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour starts around 8AM to 10AM, depending on the sun’s visibility, as the tour needs light as little sunlight will make the mangrove really dark. The tour still operates during a storm but not during a very strong typhoon.  It is best to visit the Mangrove Paddle Boat Tour during low tides as you will see most of the animals, including those that live on the bottom of the water. To protect against annoying mosquitoes, use insect repellent before the tour. They stop touring guests around 4:30PM.  The Paddle Boat Tour can be combined with the Sabang X Zipline as both attractions are located very close to each other.

Docking area of fiberglass boats

Docking area of fiberglass boats

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa: Sabang Beach, Sitio Sabang, Brgy. Cabayugan. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan. Palawan Sales Office: Jeco Bldg., Rizal Ave. Extn., Puerto Princesa City.  Tel (+63 48) 434 1448 to 49 and 723 7278. Mobile Numbers (+63 917) 308-3245 and (+ 63 917) 308-3245. Cebu Sales Office: Sheridan Bldg., Ouano Ave., NRA, Mandaue City.  Tel: (+63 32) 236-1001. Fax: (+63 32) 345-1000. Mobile number: (+63 917) 306-6984. Manila Sales Office: tel: (+63 2) 939-8888. Mobile number: (+63 917) 726-5224. E-mail: reservations@sheridanbeachresort.com.  Website: www.sheridanbeachresort.com.
Instagram: @sheridanresorts
Instagram official tag: #SheridanPalawan
Twitter: @sheridanresorts
Facebook: facebook.com/sheridanbeachresortandspa

Buenavista View Deck (Puerto Princesa City, Palawan)

Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa Media Tour

An invitation, from Mr. Pete Dacuycuy, to join a media team covering the 2-storey, 4-star and eco-friendly and nature-inspired Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa allowed me to reconnect with Palawan, my last visit there being in 1993 during a vacation to Club Paradise Resort in Coron.  It would also be my first visit to Puerto Princesa City.  Joining me and Pete were food blogger Ms. Joy Calipes-Felizardo (www.gastronomybyjoy.com), professional photographer P.J. Enriquez, free-lance travel writer Lester Gopela Hallig and Ms. Charmie Joy Pagulong of The Philippine Star.  We all took the very early 5:20 AM Philippine Airlines flight from NAIA Terminal III.

Buenavista View Deck

Buenavista View Deck

We arrived at Puerto Princesa Airport by 6:40 AM and were whisked, via the resort’s Toyota Grandia van, on a 75-km./2-hour drive through a winding, concrete zigzag road. Just 45 mins. from the resort, we made one stopover at Buenavista View Deck, along a high section of the road to Sabang.

Eatery and souvenir shop

Eatery and souvenir shop

Souvenir shop
It is part of the Community Based Sustainable Tourism program initiated by the Puerto Princesa City Government that aims to provide additional livelihood for locals residing in economically-marginalized communities.
Spectacular view of Ulugan Bay

Spectacular view of Ulugan Bay

A popular stop over for tourists going to Puerto Princesa Underground River and Sabang Beach, it has an elevated concrete observation deck. Climbing the view deck, we had spectacular and relaxing views of Ulugan Bay, a deep channel on the northwestern coast of Puerto Princesa, Rita Island, the rocky outcrops of Tres Marias and Oyster Bay.  Portions of the karst formations of St. Paul’s can be viewed over the intervening areas of dense forests in the north.

Bags

Bags

Hats and caps

Hats and caps

Bracelets

Bracelets

There’s also a small eatery which sells meals and light snacks and a souvenir shop which displays and sells locally made wood carvings (masks, walking canes, chaku, police batons, etc.), baskets, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings, hats, T-shirts, ref magnets and key chains.

Chaku and walking canes

Chaku and walking canes

Police batons

Police batons

Corn coffee and honey

Corn coffee and honey

They also sell local food products such as bottled honey, cashew nuts and corn coffee.

Wooden masks

Wooden masks

Baskets

Baskets

Rainmakers

Rainmakers

Buenavista View Deck: Brgy. Buenavista, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan.

Sighnaghi: City of Love (Georgia)

After our short stopover at the venerated Bodbe Monastery, we continued on our GNTA-sponsored tour, proceeding on a short 2-km. drive to the town center of Sighnaghi.  We arrived at the town by 11:30 AM and alighted at a park with a monument to Georgian philosopher, journalist, historian and native son Solomon Dodashvili (May 17, 1805 – August 20, 1836).

Postcard-pretty Sighnaghi

Postcard-pretty Sighnaghi (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Other famous sons of the town include composer Vano Sarajishvili, political figure Sandro Mirianashvili and world-renowned primitivist painter Niko Pirosmani. We were to have lunch at Pheasant’s Tears but, as we still had some time to spare, our Georgian guide  Sopho Makashvili took us on a walking tour around the town.

Monument to native son Solomon Dogashvili

Monument to native son Solomon Dogashvili (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Sighnaghi, located in Georgia’s easternmost region of Kakheti, is the administrative center of the Sighnaghi district and one of the country’s smallest (2.978 km²) towns (2002 population: 2,146).  One of Georgia’s leading trading centers in the 19th century,  Sighnaghi’s economy is dominated by the production of wine, leather, gobelin tapestry, woodcarving, metal craft, ceramics, traditional carpets and traditional food.

Uniquely designed terrace architecture of the town

Uniquely designed terrace architecture of the town

The town and its environs, also known for their landscapes and historical monuments, has recently undergone a fundamental reconstruction and has become an important part of the Georgian tourism industry (it is now known as the “City of Love”).  The town is also the jump-off point for exploring the lush vineyards of Kakheti, the cradle of wine (Georgia boasts of 500 varieties of grapes, more than anywhere else in the world).

The author exploring part of Sighnaghi's defensive wall and towers

Exploring part of Sighnaghi’s defensive wall and towers (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The town was developed in the early 18th century by the king Erekle II (Heraclius II) as a refuge for the population against Lezgin and Persian attack, hence the name sighnaghi which comes from the Azeri word signak meaning “shelter.” In 1762, he sponsored the construction of the town and erected a fortress to defend the area from marauding attacks by Dagestan tribesmen.  The 4.5 m. high, 1.5 m. wide and 4.5 km. long city wall, one of the biggest in Georgia, has 23 towers, each named after local villages the town is surrounded by, and 6 entrances.

Our guide Sopho Makashvili, Riva Galvezltan, the author and Consul Buddy Cunanan

Our guide Sopho Makashvili, Riva Galvezltan, the author and Consul Buddy Cunanan (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Sopho showed us, from afar, the section of the city’s defensive wall that has been restored for tourism and we climbed one of the towers for a panoramic view of the town.  Walking along the town’s narrow cobblestone streets, I was also enthralled by the uniquely designed terrace architecture of the 2 to 3-storey tiled-roof houses of Sighnaghi, the majority of which still date back from 17th, 18th and 19th century.  Built with fine Georgian brick, they were built to accommodate a variety of stores and workshops, above which are wooden, lacy balconies and bow-backed windows.  The town also has a beautiful fountain.

A beautiful fountain

A beautiful fountain

Consul Buddy Cunanan and I also observed a number of Georgian men playing nardi (backgammon). Popular in Georgia, men, women, children and the elderly all know how to play it, and just about every family owns a backgammon set. They say that life in Georgia is like a game of backgammon – people tend to approach life like a game of chance.

Georgian men playing backgammon in the open

Georgian men playing nardi (backgammon) in the open (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

We also visited the town’s market, near the town hall, where fresh fruits and vegetables, locally made Georgian red (saperavi) and white wine and the clear and strong chacha (Georgian pomace brandy); natural honey; churchkhela (the traditional type of Georgian candy from the Caucasus region also referred to as the Georgian “Snickers”) and cheeses.  Buddy and I each tried out a glass of Georgian wine.

An array of products sold at the market

An array of products sold at the market (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

There are also Georgian spice and spice mixes such as khmeli suneli (a powdered herb/spice mixture), adjika (a spicy paste or sauce seasoned with hot chili peppers) and pilpili (pepper) plus a picturesque array of knitted goods (Georgian socks with traditional patterns, local wool, hats, scarves, slippers, baby booties, etc.) for sale at cheap prices.

The town hall with its distinctive clock tower

The town hall with its distinctive clock tower

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

Whale Shark Interaction (Oslob, Cebu)

After an early breakfast at Sumilon Bluewater Island Resort, we were in for whole morning of resort-sponsored tours over at Oslob – whale shark (butanding) interaction, Tumalog Falls and the Municipal Heritage Park.  At the resort wharf, we again boarded the Jeffrey (the same boat that brought us in) that would take us to Brgy. Tan-awan in the mainland ((10 kms. away from the center of the town), where whale sharks converge.  The boat trip took just 10 mins. and, near the shore, we transferred to a small outrigger boat that brought us to shore.

The gentle but majestic whale shark (photo: Liana Smith-Bautista)

The gentle but majestic whale shark (photo: Liana Smith-Bautista)

Before we could start our butanding interaction, we first had to go first to the briefing area where we registered ourselves and attended a short but straightforward 15-min. orientation on the do’s and dont’s. You can swim with the whale sharks but should be 4 m. away from it and not ride them (there is a fine of PhP2,000 or you can go to jail) and for those who would like to swim with it, they should wash off their sun block lotion as these have chemicals are harmful to the whale sharks. If you worry about getting burned in the sun while doing the activity, better wear rashguard. Pictures can be taken underwater by one of the divers assisting the activity but no flash photography is allowed as whale sharks are sensitive to light.

The briefing area

The briefing area

After this short briefing, we all returned to our boat and, just about 200 m. from the shore, the butandings were already visible.  We all donned our snorkel and masks and jumped into the water. Most of the time, the whale sharks just hang around in the water, tilting upwards at 45 degrees, with their mouths wide open as men on boats throw krill down their throats.

Our short orientation

Our short orientation

Facts about the whale shark

Facts about the whale shark

It was a bit scary at first, considering how big they were and how close they were to us, but we had nothing to fear.  A number of butanding came near me and one actually brushed under me. Any fear is eventually replaced with amazement after seeing how gentle these majestic creatures were.

The whole gang with a whale shark

The whole gang with a whale shark (photo: Ma. Joy C. Felizardo)

It was an unforgettable experience and words are not enough to describe how wonderful (and frightening for some) it is. The exhilarating and unique experience of having one of these truly amazing, gentle juvenile giants not only swim close by, but actually brush past me is one I’ll take with me to my grave.

The author's (upper right) close encounter with a whale shark (photo: Ma. Joy C. Felizardo)

The author’s (upper right) close encounter with a whale shark (photo: Ma. Joy C. Felizardo)

Oslobanons are happy and grateful to the whale sharks as they have given them an unexpected and better income. However, the idea of feeding the whale sharks on a daily basis can be disruptive for the sharks’ nature of searching for their food. Added to that, as too many people are around at any given time, you also have to be constantly on your guard as you have to dodge boats that can run over you. Their guidelines are also good in theory and are monitored by a marine biologist but they are almost impossible to police. The 4 m. required distance between man and shark is also impossible to keep as there are so many swimmers and sharks. For me, the jury is out on whether this is sustainable.

Fisherman feeding a whale shark

Fisherman feeding a whale shark

Oslob Whale Shark Watching: Brgy. Tan-awan, Oslob 6025, Cebu.  Mobile number (0925) 897-8687.  Open daily, 6:30 AM to 12 noon.

Rates: PhP500/30 mins. interaction (whale shark watching + snorkeling), PhP300 if you just want to stay in the boat (whale shark watching). An underwater camera can rent for PhP500 and the boatman can be your photographer as well. If you don’t have a memory card, they charge another PhP50 (the pictures were then transferred to our own memory card).

Half-Day Cu Chi Tunnel Tour (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)

No visit to Ho Chi Minh City is complete without a visit to the infamous Cu Chi Tunnels and, during our walking tour of the French Quarter, Osang, Violet, Jandy and I visited the Saigon Tourist Office to book a half-day afternoon guided tour.  After lunch at the Propaganda Cafe, we promptly returned to the tourist office by 1 PM where we were to be picked up by our tour bus.

The video documentary

The video documentary

This 75-mile (121 km.) long complex of tunnels has been preserved by the Vietnamese government and turned into a war memorial park with two different tunnel display sites open to visitors – Ben Dinh, closer to Saigon, and Ben Duoc (15 kms. further) which contains part of the original tunnel system. We were to visit the former, the site where most group tours go. As such, it can be extremely crowded.

Exhibit of Vietnam-era weapons

Exhibit of Vietnam-era weapons

Our 40-km. trip to Ben Dinh took us 1.5 hours. There are a number of stalls selling food and drinks near the entrance. Our Cu Chi tunnel tour started at a classroom-style hut with a wall chart and a cross-section of the tunnels.  Here, we were shown an introductory black and white, Russian-made video detailing the tunnel’s long 25-year construction as well as live footage of American planes dousing the land with Agent Orange and destroying it with bombs.

A B-52 bomb crater

A B-52 bomb crater

Then, Mr. Do Thanh Ngan, our local English-speaking guide took us on a fascinating tour of the Cu Chi tunnels along a well defined walking track, with lots of interesting things to see spaced at regular intervals, that loops around the area. Along the way, we walked past huge, mind-boggling hollow basins of earth, actually bomb craters that are evidence of the heavy B-52 bombing campaigns in the region during the Vietnam War.

Entrance to the Ham Hoi Truong (meeting room)

Entrance to the Ham Hoi Truong (meeting room)

During the Vietnam War, the tunnel system was a safe haven for thousands of Vietnamese soldiers and civilians and it was virtually an underground city with dwelling houses, schools, hospitals and factories. Through lots of compelling photos and personal effects left behind, we learned more about the conditions these people lived in, the hardships they faced, and the amazing ingenuity employed to maintain life in the tunnels.  We also saw examples of how people lived and what they ate.

Jandy trying out the hidden tunnel entrance

Jandy trying out the hidden tunnel entrance

At one seemingly empty area, our guide pointed to us a small, hidden tunnel entrance just beneath our feet.  A Vietnamese soldier first demonstrated to us how to enter and exit the tunnel, closing the entrance with a 2 x 1.5-ft. manhole cover.  A tourist also successfully tried her hand in doing so, followed by Jandy.

An array of terrifying but lethal booby traps

An array of terrifying but lethal booby traps

Chong bo (door trap)

Chong bo (door trap): heavily spiked wooden cross sections suspended above a door or opening via a trip wire.  When the wire is tripped, the trap swings down and impales the victim

A see-saw trap

A see-saw trap with sharp punji sticks at the bottom of the pit

Also on display were the different types of lethally terrifying but clever booby traps using punji sticks, ironically made from the scrap metal of the American’s artillery, bomb and rocket shells, which were used on American soldiers – chong bat (swinging up trap), chong can coi (see-saw trap), chong canh cua (window trap), chong ghe xep (folding chair trap), chong tru quay (rolling trap), chong-hom (fish trap), chong bo (door trap) and hong tho (sticking trap).

Chimneys

Tiny chimneys that disperses smoke from the kitchen

Tiny ventilation shafts

Tiny ventilation shafts

We also wandered past tiny little chimneys in the ground that dispersed smoke from the underground hoang cam kitchens, tiny ventilation shafts and climbed up what remained of a U.S. army M-41 tank destroyed by a delay mine in 1970.  Underground conference rooms (ham hoi truong), where campaigns such as the Tet Offensive were planned in 1968, have also been restored.   There were also some mannequins re-enacting soldiers in different settings (an army camp, military workshop, etc.).

The destroyed American M-41 tank

The destroyed American M-41 light tank

Jandy and I, as well as other guests, were given the opportunity to do a tough crawl through a 100 m. long section of the “touristed” tunnels, never part of the real network, which have been specially created and enlarged (around 50%) and widened so that the larger Western tourists can now fit through.  Though low powered lights have been installed to make traveling through them easier, it is still not recommended for the claustrophobic.

The tunnel entrance

The tunnel entrance

The tunnel we entered

The tunnel we entered

Violet tried but gave up while Osang remained above ground.  The crawl space was so small and tight that I found it impossible to believe that anyone ever survived here before the tunnel was enlarged. For those who may not want to, or may not be able to continue, exit points were located at the 20 m., 40m., 60m. and 80 m. marks. Jandy and I exited after 20 m.  This was the highlight of our tour

Cong binh xuong (military workshop)

Cong binh xuong (military workshop)

A sandal-making factory

A sandal-making factory

Other above-ground attractions include numerous souvenir shops, at the end of the walking track, some focusing on war memorabilia as well as the traditional Vietnamese souvenirs which could be found elsewhere.  Nearby is a shooting range where visitors can play real war games by firing a variety of authentic Vietnam-era assault weapons such as the K-54 pistol, the M-16 rifle, AK-47, M1 carbine, M1 Garand, Russian SKS and the M-30 and M-60 light machine guns.

Jandy at one of the souvenir shops

Jandy at one of the souvenir shops

Firing range rates

Firing range rates

Sounds like great fun but I cannot help but put off from my mind what these “toys” were really designed for – killing. Besides firing a weapon costs 20,000 VND/bullet (US$0.95) for the K-54 pistol all the way up to 40,000 VND/bullet (US$1.88) for AK-47 and M-60 machine gun, and you have to buy at least 10 bullets (you can, however, share these with someone else).

Jandy, Violet and Osang posing with some manikins

Jandy, Violet and Osang posing with a pair of mannequins

The Beached Ships of Tacloban City (Leyte)

As a consequence of Typhoon Yolanda (international name: Haiyan) hitting Tacloban City and the ensuing tsunami-like storm surge, a number of ocean-going ships were beached. These hulking ships are fast becoming a tourist destinations by themselves. During my visit to Tacloban, 8 months after Yolanda, I made it a point to visit some of these huge boats.

MV Eva Jocelyn (4 were pinned here)

MV Eva Jocelyn (4 were pinned here)

A total of 10 commercial ships were were swept inland during the onslaught of Typhoon Yolanda. Eight were stuck in Rawis and Anibong Districts, one in Brgy. Diit, and one near San Juanico Bridge. In addition, two government vessels; a dredger found in Fatima Village in Brgy. 75, owned by the Department of Public Works and Highways; and a ship owned by the Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources; were also beached.

Beached Ships at Anibong (16)

Five more ships were beached in Quinapondan and Guiuan (Eastern Samar) – the MV Eastern Samar (Lilygene Shipping Lines Inc in Guiuan, Eastern Samar, owned by Mr. Generoso Yu), the MV Lady of Fatima (owner unknown); and 2 tugboats (MT Maharlika-A and MT Maharlika-B) and a barge (Vicente Uno) of Vicente Lao Construction based in Davao City.

Beached Ships at Anibong (12)

The MV Gayle (Unilink Shipping Corp., owned by Alfred Yanglua of Cebu), a big part of which was already floating on the water (making it easier to pull away from the shore), was removed from the shore last April in a salvage operation that lasted for 30 minutes. Afterwards, it was brought to Cebu City to be fixed (its propeller was destroyed and its engine needed to be replaced).

Beached Ships at Anibong (13)

Nine other ships have yet to be removed – the MV Eva Jocelyn (Eva Shipping Lines of Mandaue City, Cebu); the  MV RKK 1 (RKK Shipping Lines, Inc.); the MV Star Hilongos (Roble Shipping Corp., owned by Joey Roble of Cebu); MV David Legaspi (Candano Shipping Corp., owned by Elena Candano of Tabaco City, Albay); the MV Jaguar (Tacloban Oil Mill of Tolosa, Leyte); the MV Ligaya V (Avega Brothers Integrated Shipping Corp. in Makati City); the MV Lancer (Matsya Shipping of Cebu City) the MV Tomi Elegance (Tacloban Oil Mill ); and LCT Rosman (owned by businessman Richmond Ng of Quezon City, Metro Manila).

Beached Ships at Anibong (17)
At Brgy. 68 (where the typhoon claimed 20 lives), we visited the 3,000-ton, red and blue MV Eva Jocelyn.  When the supertyphoon smashed through Tacloban, a dozen cinderblock houses were directly hit by the ship and 4 residents were later found dead, pinned by the ship. Now sitting on unstable ground composed of debris, this ship is tilting due to the movement of the deteriorating ground. This could crush surrounding makeshift houses that were repaired by their owners.  A bizarre sight was tourists having their picture taken right in front of this ship’s massive hull that flattened homes and killed people.

Beached Ships at Anibong (19)

However, these beached ships are temporary “tourist attractions” as the Philippine Coast Guard (PCG) wants the ship owners to retract, refloat or make into scrap their vessels by the end of January or mid-February 2015, otherwise, the PCG would salvage the ships at the owner’s expense.

The DPWH Barge

The beached DPWH dredger at Fatima Village

The owners, however, appear hesitant to immediately remove the vessels because of unfinished documentation for insurance claims.  The residents want them removed as they have been “imprisoned” by these cargo vessels. They are also a painful reminder to them and hinder the removal and cleaning of the debris as well as in restoring the devastated coastal areas.