Ananuri Fortress (Georgia)

Posted on 30 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

(All photos courtesy of Ms. Riva Galveztan)

We started Day Two of our GNTA-sponsored tour of the Georgian countryside by traveling 157 kms. to the northeastern Georgian town of Stepantsminda (formerly Kazbegi). To get there, we would travel along the Georgian Military Highway. This historic mountain road that crosses the Greater Caucasus Mountains, connecting Tbilisi in Georgia with the Russian town of Vladikavkaz in North Ossetia, passes through narrow gorges squeezed between colossal mountains, making for some amazing views.

The amazingly scenic Ananuri Fortress

On one of the turns along the highway, about 72 kms. (45 miles) and an hour away out of Tbilisi, we made a stopover at the scenic Ananuri Fortress which stands spectacularly on a promontory above the large, 11.5 sq. km., azure-blue Zhinvali water reservoir on the Aragvi River, an important water supply for Tbilisi formed after the construction of the Zhinvali Dam.

The Zhinvali water reservoir

To get to the castle, we had to make a short walk down a narrow road. This castle complex, the seat of the redoubtable eristavis (dukes) of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty which ruled the area from the 13th century, was the scene of numerous battles as it guarded the way to the ancient capital of Dusheti and, centuries later, the main road linking Georgia with Russia, serving as a garrison for Russian troops.

The crenellated curtain wall

Zurab Aragveli, a ruthless local prince known for attacking neighboring mountain clans and even blinding his own brother, was responsible for building much of what is now seen. In 1739, the fortress was attacked and set on fire by forces commanded by Shanshe, the duke of the rival duchy of Ksani, and the Aragvi clan was massacred. The usurpers, in turn, were killed 4 years later when local peasants revolted against their rule.

One of the fort’s towers

King Teimuraz II was invited to rule directly over them but, in 1746, the king was forced to suppress, with the help of King Erekle II of Kakheti, another peasant uprising. The fortress remained in use until the beginning of the 19th century. In 2007, the complex was placed on the tentative list for inclusion into the UNESCO World Heritage Site program.

Interior of one of the round towers

The late-feudal Georgian fortress complex, incorporating a circuit wall with turrets, porch, churches, a spring, a reservoir and a Svanetian tower with a stepped pyramidal roof, consists of 2 fortifications joined by a crenellated curtain wall. The well-preserved upper fortification, with a large square tower (known as Sheupovari), is the location of the last defense of the Aragvi against Shanshe.

The Church of the Assumption

The lower fortification, with a round tower, is mostly in ruins. Within the complex are two churches. The brick Church of the Virgin, the older of the two, dates from the first half of the 17th century. Abutting a tall square tower, it has the graves of some of the Dukes of Aragvi. Its interior, no longer decorated, has a stone baldaquin erected by the widow of Duke Edishera, who prematurely died in 1674 without giving her a child.

The tall, narrow watchtower adjacent to the west wall of the church

We were to visit the upper fortification. Three of the upper fortification’s five massive towers, including the largest Sheupovari Tower, face the Georgian Military Highway. We all entered the complex to the right of the fortification, from the middle of the southern wall. As we entered the fortress, we faced the Church of the Assumption (Ghvtismshobeli), the main domed cathedral and the larger of the two churches.

Grapevine cross carved on the south façade of the church

Georgian script carved on the south facade of the church

The church, built in 1689 for the son of Duke Bardzem and designed by architect: K. Bakhsarashvili, has a central dome and its earliest pyramidal tower is located by its western wall. It is interesting to explore from the outside as it has a richly decorated façade with some very well-preserved bas-reliefs featuring human, animal and floral images. The north entrance has Georgian script carved on the walls while the south façade has a carved grapevine cross. Adjacent to the west wall of the church is a tall, narrow watch tower dating from the 13th or 14th century.

The church’s modest interior

The central dome of the church

Inside its modest interior, we could still see the remains of a number of frescoes, most of which were destroyed by a fire in the 18th century. Among the scenes depicted are the famous Thirteen Assyrian Fathers, prominent ecclesiastical figures which represent convincing evidence for the study of the iconography of these figures. We also saw people lighting candles (bought from the kiosk on the left hand side as you enter the church) and placing them underneath paintings and icons of saints. Along the church’s east wall are several tombstones.

Fresco of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers

Too bad we didn’t have time to climb its towers. This fortified ensemble truly was photogenic, thanks to its wonderful location overlooking the Zhinvali Reservoir, as well historically significant, thanks to centuries of royal rivalry. Indeed this true castle, the first one I ever visited, is about as medieval as one can get and was well worth a visit.

Melissa, Sopho and Consul Cunanan

Ananuri Fortress: Georgian Military Highway, Ananuri. Open daily, 9 AM – 7 PM. Admission is free.

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug

After making our way down the hill from Jvari Monastery, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, with Georgian guide Sopho, proceeded on our GNTA-sponsored tour to Mtskheta town center, making a long stopover at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles, known as the burial site of Jesus Christ’s mantle. The biggest ecclesiastical construction in medieval Georgia, it is also the second largest church in Georgia (after the Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral in Tblisi). In Georgian sveti means “pillar” and tskhoveli means “life-giving” or “living.”

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

According to legend, St. Elias (or Elioz), a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta, brought Jesus Christ’s mantle to Georgia from Jerusalem, buying Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at the crucifixion site in Golgotha. His sister Sidonia touched the mantle and was so overcome by it that she immediately died in a passion of faith. Nobody was able to take away the mantle from her grasp and she was buried with it. Later, an enormous cedar tree later grew from Sidonia’s grave but people forgot the exact grave site.

In the 4th century, King Mirian decided to build the first church at Mtskheta and St. Nino ordered the cedar tree chopped down to build it. From the cedar tree she had seven columns made for the church foundations. However, the seventh column, designed to stand in its center, had magical properties and could not be raised from the ground as it rose by itself into the air. After an all-night prayer vigil by St Nino, the column miraculously moved of its own accord and returned to earth to the burial site of Sidonia and the robe. The seventh column subsequently worked many miracles.

The entrance gate

The cathedral is also the coronation and burial (10 are known to have been buried here, although only 6 tombs have been found, all before the altar) site of the kings of Georgia. The Svetitskhoveli complex includes the cathedral, the fragments of the palace and gates of the Catholicos Melchizedek I, all built in the 11^th century; and the 18^th century gates of Erekle II (Heraclius II) To enter, Sopho, Melissa and Riva had to cover their heads and wear a skirt. There were wrap-around skirts in a box near the door that could be worn over their trousers.

Sopho, Riva and Melissa in their wrap-around skirts

The cathedral, originally built as a wooden church during the reign of King Mirian III of Kartli (Iberia) in the 4th century, was replaced by a big 3-nave basilica built in the 480s by King Vakhtang Gorgasali. It has been damaged several times, notably by the invasions of Arabs (in the Abul Qasim raid, the church was used as a stable for camels), Seljuk Turks under Sultan Alp Arslan, the Persians under Shah Abbas I and Timur (also called Timurlaine) and, later, during the Russian subjugation and the Soviet period. The domed cathedral, an “inscribed cross” type of church, has a layout of an elongated rectangle and an ornamented facade with decorative arcading which unites the separate components of the structure.

Eastern facade

The present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was rebuilt, from 1010 to 1029 (during the reign of King Giorgi I), by the architect Arsakidze, at the invitation of the Catholicos Melkisedek I of Georgia. Its cross-dome style of church architecture emerged in Georgia in the early Middle Ages and became the principle style after the political unification of Georgia by Bagrat III (978-1014). The church structure was intended to ensure good acoustics. Its dome, placed across all 4 sides of church was, over the centuries, reconstructed several times. It is supported by 4 lofty columns and contains 16 windows.

Sun emblem joined with a grave vine

Severely damaged by Timur (also called Timurlaine), it was rebuilt from 1413 to 1440 by King Aleksandre the Great who restored the western side of the cathedral and the collapsed cupola. In the 1837, on the occasion of a scheduled visit to Mskheta by Tsar Nicholas II (although in the end the tsar never came), more serious alterations took place when the richly ornamented galleries, narthexes, apses and subsidiary chapels on the north and south, from different periods, were ruthlessly swept away.

Painting of figures of the Zodiac

The interior, originally painted with frescoes, were whitewashed over and, only recently, after much careful restoration, some few remnants of the original paintings, including fragments of a 13th-century Beast of the Apocalypse and figures of the Zodiac, have been revealed again. The base of the basilica, built in the late 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, after St. Nino’s original church, was found during the restoration of 1970-71 (presided over by V. Tsintsadze).

Exploring the cathedral’s defensive wall

The cathedral’s defensive wall, built in 1787 with stone and brick during the reign of King Erekle II (Heraclius), has a top storey, designed for military purposes, with gun emplacements. From the wall, the entrance to the cathedral is located to the south. Of the wall’s 8 towers: 6 are cylindrical and 2 are square. In 1963, archaeological expeditions, at the southern part of the wall, found the house of the 11th century atriarch. Within the church yard, the remains of the 2-storey castle of Patriarch Anton II were found.

One of 6 cylindrical towers along the defensive wall

Sandy yellow stone, with trimmings, was used for the cathedral’s construction, red stone around the apse window and green stone in the drum of the cupola (dating from the 17th century). The curved blind arcading, from the 11th century, is unaltered throughout.

Large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist

A large window occupies most of the church’s western top side. An original sculpture on the wall, showing a sitting Christ with two angels at his side, though restored several times (most recently in the 19th century), has not survived. A relief sculpture, on the external northern wall, shows the symbol of the stonemason (a right arm and hand holding a chisel).

The cathedral altar’s iconostasis (wall of icons and religious paintings)

The walls are decorated with many Christian Orthodox icons, the majority of which date to the 20th century while some are copies of older icons and frescoes from other churches throughout Georgia. Most of the originals are in the national museums of Georgia. At the altar is a large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist. As in many Georgian churches, stonework here feature carved grapes, a reflection of the country’s ancient wine-making tradition.

Bull’s head at the eastern facade

Two bulls’ heads, from the 5th-century church, were incorporated into the east façade, a testimony of the folk influence on Christian iconography in that early period. On the right side, from the entrance of the cathedral, is a stone baptismal font, dating from the 4th century, thought to have been used for the baptism of King Mirian and Queen Nana. Immediately behind it, on the north façade, is a reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel.

A reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel

Built into the cathedral, on the south side, is a small stone and square cupola chapel built between the end of the 13th and the beginning the 14th centuries. A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, it was built at the site to mark Svetitskhoveli as the second most sacred place (thanks to Christ’s robe) in the world (after the church of Jerusalem).

A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

In front of the chapel is the most westerly structure, aligned with the columns between the aisle and the nave that marks Sidonia’s grave. Remains of the original life-giving pillar are found preserved inside a tower supported by columns near the dome inside the cathedral. Built in the 17th century, scenes of the lives of King Mirian and Queen Nana, plus portraits of the first Christian Byzantine Emperor, Constantine I, and his mother Helena, were painted by G. Gulzhavarashvili. Traces of the 4th-century church’s foundations have also been found here.

Burial place of Sidona

The second structure, aligned with the columns of the southern aisle, was also built in the 17th century as the throne of Catholicos Diasamidze (it no longer serves this function, as current tradition requires a throne for the Georgian patriarch to be in the center of the church).

The throne of Catholicos Diasamidze

The tombs of king buried here include that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (identified by his the small candle fortress standing before it), King Erekle II (identifiable by the sword and shield upon it) and, next to him, is marble tomb of his son George XII, the last king of Georgia. In front of the altar are the tombs of David VI, George VIII, Luarsab I as well as those of various members of the Bagrationi royal family, including Tamar, the first wife of George XI, whose epitaph, dating from 1684, is written both in Georgian (Asomtavruli) and Arabic script. Also buried here are Patriarchs Melkisedec I and Domenti II.

Tomb of Prince Konstantin Bagration-Mukhransky

Svetitshoveli Cathedral impressed me by its immensity and it is very magnificent, both inside and out. Of all the Georgian churches I saw, this was my favorite. It has a distinct air of history to it, being a silent witness to history of Christian Georgia for 17 centuries. Directly opposite the entrance is a tourist information office and (nominal fee). At the cathedral grounds are shops, souvenir stalls, cafes, cobblestone roads, granite sidewalks, parking lot and houses with red tile roofs.

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral: Narekvavi-Mtskheta-Railway Station, Arsukidze, Mtskheta, Georgia. Open daily, 8 AM – 10 PM.

How to Get There: Mtskheta is located about 20 kms. from Tbilisi. Mini buses run regularly every day of the week between Tbilisi’s Didube market and the main street in Mtskheta.

The cathedral grounds with the tourist information office on the right

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website:www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Jvari Monastery (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

It was the first day of our Georgian Countryside Tour, sponsored by the Georgian National Tourism Administration and, after breakfast, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I proceeded to Meidan Square where we met up with our affable Georgian guide – Ms. Sopho Makashvili. GNTA also provided us with a white Mercedes-Benz Sprinter panel van and a driver.

The Jvari Monastery complex (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Our first destination was to be Jvari Monastery in the town of Mtskheta, just a 22 min. (20.6-km.) drive up north via the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Highway. Even from the main road, the church was already visible from afar as it is perched on top of a hill (the highest in the town) with splendid hues of orange, yellow, red and green. With its 1:7 size proportions, Jvari Monastery also looked like a head on the shoulders of the rock it was built on. We drove up almost to the monastery where there’s a small lot where cars can park for free.

Jvari Monastery seen from afar (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

According to traditional accounts, in the early 4^th century, a large wooden cross, symbolizing the fall of paganism and rise of Christianity in Georgia, was erected over a pagan temple by Saint Nino, a female evangelist credited with converting King Mirian III of Iberia to Christianity. Pilgrims from all over the Caucasus were drawn to the cross after it was reportedly able to work miracles. In 545, just north of the cross, a cruciform church, known as the Small Church of Jvari, was built. Between 586 and 605, the larger and present”Great Church of Jvari” was constructed directly above the site of the wooden cross by Erismtavari Stepanoz I, the Presiding Prince of Kartli (Iberia).

The Church of the Holy Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

During the Soviet period, the church was preserved as a National Monument, but access to it was very difficult due to tight security at a nearby military base. After the independence of Georgia in 1991, the building was restored to active religious use in 1996. In 2004, the monastery, together with other monuments of Mtskheta, were placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, by the World Monuments Fund, as part of the “Historical Monuments of Mtskheta” and, in 2009, was added to the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger.

The ruins of the Small Church of Jvari (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Entrance to the monastery is free of charge. The monastery complex is rather small and it was once fortified as remnants of a stone wall and a gate, built in the late Middle Ages, still survive to this day. From a viewpoint, we were rewarded with stunning views of of Mtskheta (the old capital of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia), with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in its very heart; the Saguramos mountains and the amassing confluence of the the Aragvi and the Mtkvari (Kura) Rivers.

View of Mtskheta, the Saguramos Mountains and the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

This picturesque view of these two rivers, “that are mixed like two sisters,” was described by the Russian classic poet Mikhail Yuryevich Lermontov (October 3, 1814 – July 27, 1841) in his poem “Mtsyri.” They say that when it is not very rainy, you can see clearly that both rivers have water of different colors: blue and dark blue.

The southern facade (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The Church of the Holy Cross, a domed tetraconch, is an early example of a “four-apsed church with four niches,” a church design found in the architecture of Georgia, Armenia and Caucasian Albania. Often referred to as a “Hripsime-type plan” (after its best known example, the church of St. Hripsime in Armenia), this church had a great impact on the further development of Georgian architecture, serving as a model for many other churches. Three-quarter cylindrical niches, between the 4 apses, are open to the central space and 3 rows of squinches affect the transition from the square central bay to the base of the dome’s drum. The ruins of the Small Church of Jvari are still visible beside the church.

Bas-relief of the Ascension of the Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The church is also the first Georgian church where reliefs take a significant place in the décor of its external facades which is decorated with varied and exceptional bas-relief sculptures with Hellenistic and Sasanian influences, some of which are accompanied by explanatory inscriptions in Georgian Asomtavruli script. The fine proportions and remarkable technique of these relief sculptures distinguishes it from the sculptures from earlier bas-relief carving common in the region.

Bas relief of Adarnase I of Iberia (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The entrance tympanum, on the southern façade, is adorned with a relief of the Glorification of the Cross and also shows an Ascension of Christ. On the facet of the drum of the dome is a figure of an unidentified person, possibly the architect. An inscription on the eastern facade mentions the principal builders of the church as Stephanos (patricius), his brother Demetre (hypatos) and son Adarnase (hypatos). Over the centuries, its stone blocks have been degraded, suffering damage from acidic rain, wind erosion and inadequate maintenance which all play a part in deteriorating the monastery.

Replica of the cross of St. Nino (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Before we entered the church, the women had to cover their heads with scarves and a second one to wrap around the waist as a skirt (there were scarves available for visitors to quickly borrow). However, it seems that it is not very strictly enforced. We were also allowed to take photos inside the church but we avoided using our camera’s flash.

Sopho, Pancho and Consul Buddy inside the Church of the Holy Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The rather rough and simple interior didn’t have any impressive frescoes or richly decorated altar, just the usual gorgeous icons (including one of St. Nino) and a huge, carved wooden cross (a replica of the original cross of St Nino) on its original octagonal base, but its simplicity suggested some peace and quiet. The inner height also made the church look very spacious. The high windows at the top of the church allows light to come through and cascade across.

The author lighting a candle

On our way down the hill, we passed the monument of Russian poet Mikhail Lermontov on the right side and made a short stopover at the Tree of Wishes. A Georgian tradition, The pilgrims come there to fasten cloth ribbons or small pieces of canvas over its branches, with the hopes that their wishes will be granted.

Icon of St. George slaying the dragon

The place, with its unique history, tranquility and unforgettable views, was truly fabulous. Though not large or ornate, the lovely Church of the Holy Cross is very attractive in a strong, simple way and an iconic site in the history of Georgian Orthodox Christianity. Many couples get married here.

The Tree of Wishes (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

The Cave City of Vardzia (Georgia)

Posted on 27 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Akhaltsikhe, it was a fantastic drive up to Vardzia, with old castles and churches along the way. Soon, we espied the wide-mouthed caves gaping at us from across the valley as we drove in. Vardzia, on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, 30 kms. from the town of Aspindza, was excavated from solid rock along the slopes of the Erusheti Mountain during the second half of the 12^th century. The caves, stretching along the cliff for some 500 m., rises up to 19 tiers.

The Cave City of Vardzia

Four distinct building phases have been identified at Vardzia. The first phase, during the reign of Giorgi III (1156-1184), was when the site was laid out and the first cave dwellings excavated; the second between Giorgi’s death and the marriage of fabled queen Tamar, his successor, in 1186 (when the Church of the Dormition was carved out and decorated); the third from that date until Tamar’s victory at the Battle of Basian (circa 1203), during which time many more dwellings as well as the defenses, water supply, and a complex irrigation network ( to water fertile, terraced farmlands on the outside slopes) were constructed.

The author and Riva

The fourth phase was a period of partial rebuilding, after the devastating earthquake of 1283 literally ripped the place apart, shattering the mountain slope, destroying more than two-thirds of the city and exposing the hidden innards of the remainder. Vardzia escaped the onslaught of the Mongol invaders in the 1290s and the monastery community persisted until it was sacked by the Persians, under Shah Tahmasp I, in 1551. After the Ottoman takeover in the 16^th century, the site was largely abandoned.

The steep uphill path to the cave city

The greater Vardzia area includes also the early 11^th-century church at Zeda Vardzia and the 10^th to 12^th-century rock village and cave churches of Ananuri. The main lower site, carved from the cliff’s central stratum of tufaceous breccia at an elevation of 1,300 m. above sea level, is divided, into an eastern and a western part, by the Church of the Dormition. In the eastern part of the complex are 79 separate cave dwellings, in 8 tiers, with a total of 242 rooms, including 6 chapels, “Tamar’s Room,” a meeting room, reception chamber, pharmacy and 25 wine cellars (185 wine jars sunk into the floor document the importance of viticulture to the monastic economy).

Steel ladders facilitate access to caves

In the western part, between the external bell tower and the large main church, are a further 40 houses, in 13 tiers, with a total of 165 rooms, including 6 chapels, a refectory with a bakery, other ovens for baking bread, and a forge. Beyond the bell tower, the complex rises to 19 tiers, with steps leading to a cemetery. Infrastructure includes access tunnels, water facilities and provision for defense. It is assumed that the only access to this mountain stronghold was via a hidden tunnel whose entrance was near the banks of the Mtkvari River.

Walkways connecting the caves

The Church of the Dormition, the central spiritual and monumental focus of the site, is sometimes known as the Church of the Assumption, which corresponds with the Orthodox Feast of the Dormition. It dates to the 1180s and was erected by Tamar to house the icon of the Virgin of Vardzia after receiving divine help in her campaigns. It has an important series of wall paintings. Similarly carved from the rock, with walls reinforced in stone, the church is 8.2 m. (27 ft.), 14.5 m. (48 ft.) long and has a height of 9.2 m. (30 ft.).

The Church of the Dormition

The wall paintings of the church and narthex, not frescoes but executed in secco, are of crucial significance in the development of the Medieval Georgian mural painting. Ascribed to Rati Surameli, eristavi of Kartli, portraits of him, as well as royal founders Giorgi III alongside her niece Tamar, are commemorated on the north wall. Tamar lacks the ribbon that is the attribute of a married woman. Her inscription includes the formula “God grant her a long life.” Giorgi, on the other hand, does not. The paintings are dated to between Giorgi’s death in 1184 and Tamar’s marriage in 1186.

At the vaults and upper walls are episodes, in a sequence, from the life of Christ (Annunciation, followed by the Nativity, Presentation in the Temple, Baptism, Transfiguration, Raising of Lazarus, Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem, Last Supper, Washing of the Feet, Crucifixion, Harrowing of Hell,Ascension, Descent of the Holy Spirit and Dormition).

At a lower level, more accessible as intercessors, are paintings of saints and stylites. On the sanctuary’s rear wall, behind the altar, are Twelve Church Fathers while in the narthex are scenes of the Last Judgment, Bosom of Abraham, Angels bearing a Medallion with the Cross, and 3 scenes from the life of Saint Stephen. Other paintings were lost during the 1283 earthquake.

Since 1985 the site has formed part of the Vardzia Historical–Architectural Museum-Reserve, which includes 46 architectural sites, 12 archaeological sites, and 21 sites of monumental art. In 1999, the extended area of Vardzia-Khertvisi, now part of a state heritage reserve, has been submitted for future inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a Cultural Site. In 2007, it was resubmitted as a mixed Cultural and Natural Site.

Tadpole-shaped pits that may have been ovens for baking bread

The Refectory

From 2012, conservation of the wall paintings in the Church of the Dormition was carried out by the Courtauld Institute of Art in conjunction with the National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation of Georgia and Tbilisi State Academy of Arts. Today, the place is maintained by a small group of zealous monks. About 300 (out of 6,000) apartments and halls can be visited and, in some tunnels, the old irrigation pipes still bring drinkable water.

The premises of the monks

Upon arrival, Ruby opted to stay behind at the parking lot (she has been to Vardzia before) while Riva and I walked up a path whose initial approach leads steeply uphill for 30-40 m. up. It was not easy climbing, but we wore good shoes and I brought along my trekking pole (actually a monopod). As we went through the caves at Vardzia, we walked up and down very steep, narrow and low corridors and stairs, most deformed with time. Some of the balconies we passed by were also not fenced (truly not for the faint of heart). We sometimes went through tunnels in near total darkness.

A narrow passageway

Though the earthquake destroyed a significant part of this cave city carved into the mountainside, what remains was still an unbelievable sight and quite unique and truly amazing to behold. Vardzia looks like it was taken directly from the pages of Lord of the Rings. All I can really say was “Wow.” Walking around and seeing the caves, and the connections between them, was truly mind blowing. The views of the valley are interesting and unbelievable, and the combination of architectural buildings and the caves is astonishing. The most surprising part of our visit was the lack of other visitors. For about 2 hours, Riva and I explored the caves and paths on the mountain but we encountered less than 20 people!

View of the valley from the 2-arch portico of the Church of the Dormition

Vardzia: Samtskhe-Javakheti, Georgia. Open daily (except Mondays), 10 AM – 7 PM. Admission: 3 GEL (adults), 1 GEL (students), 2 GEL (group of 10 person or more).

Ticket Office

How To Get There: From Tblisi, take a marshrutka (minibus) from Digomi Bus station to Akhaltsikhe. Travel time is about 3 to 4 hours and fare is 12 GEL. From Akhaltsekhi, take another marshrutka to Vardzia. Travel time is an hour and costs 6 GEL. For Vardzia, the taxi (worth it if you are a group of 3 to 4 people that can share the fare) is the easiest mode of transport while a marshrutka the second best option. The last marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe for Vardzia leaves at 1:20 pm. Be there 10 minutes earlier as, once full, the marshrutka will depart earlier. The marshrutkas operate 3 times a day. Leave Tbilisi by 7 AM so that you can reach Akhaltsikhe by 10 AM and catch the marshrutka leaving for Vardzia at 10:30 AM and return to Akhaltsikhe via the last marshrutka at 3 PM. The last marshrutka for Tbilisi from Akhaltsekhi departs at 7 PM.

Taxi hired from Akhaltsikhe

Oslob Town Proper (Cebu)

Posted on 8 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Tumalog Falls, we again boarded our airconditioned van for the short trip to the town proper of Oslob. Within its Municipal Heritage Park are a number of Spanish-era structures and at the center of it all is the town’s massive Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Conception).

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

The church was designed by Bishop Santos Gomez de Marañon (the same prelate who built the kiosk of Magellan’s Cross in Cebu City) to replace the destroyed church at Daanglungsod (Boloc-Boloc). It cornerstone was laid by Fr. Julian Bermejo on May 4, 1830. Townspeople from neighboring Tañon (now Santander) and Ivisan (now Nueva Caceres, Oslob) helped in its construction. The church was finished in 18 years and blessed by Bishop Romualdo Ximeno in 1847.

The church’s historical plaque

The church’s modern interior

The bell tower on the church’s left was built by Fr. Apolinar Alvarez in 1858 and Fr. Gregorio de Santiago Vela installed 11 bells at the fifth storey in 1894. The bells were transferred to the fourth storey when the fifth was destroyed during a strong typhoon. The bell tower was later repaired by Fr. Mauricio Alvarez (who also built the cemetery, municipal tribunal and the municipal church and made known the medicinal uses of the sulfuric waters of Mainit springs).

The still unrestored, roofless convent

The convent on the right was started by Fr. Julian Bermejo. The church was finished and reinforced with solid buttresses from 1848 to 1850 by Fr. Juan Jose Aragones, Oslob’s first parish priest (1848–1854 and 1859–1861) and later Bishop of Nueva Segovia. It was renovated by Fr. Constantino Batoctoy in 1977. The roof, made of tejas sourced out and baked locally at a place now known as Lulukhan, were replaced with corrugated iron sheets by Fr. Pablo Alaxa in 1932. The church was totally burned by Cebuano guerillas in 1942 and, later on, the vault and dome fell. In 1954, the wooden flooring of the church was replaced with baldoza tiles.

The now 4-storey bell tower

Fire of unknown origin gutted the complex on November 7, 1955 leaving only the masonry walls of both buildings. It was restored, with the cooperation of the townspeople, by Fr. Benedicto Zapra and completed in 1980 by Fr. Constantino Batoctoy in time for the sesquicentennial celebration of the original church’s construction (1830 to 1980). A 2.5-hour (1:40-4 AM) fire again hit the church and adjacent convent on March 26, 2008 but spared the icon of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, which is inside a glass case, and the 73 other icons near the door to the bell tower. The church was complete restored on December 10, 2010.

The church gate

The church is 64 m. long, 15 m. wide, 9 m. high and has a simple, sober but attractive facade with a semicircular arched main entrance, rectangular widows, half-embedded pilasters and a triangular pediment. The 4-storey, 30 m. high and octagonal bell tower has rectangular and semicircular arched windows alternating with blind ones. The dome is typically Neo-Classic.

A garita (guardhouse)

In front of the church is a prayer room, also known as a waiting chapel, built in 1847. It was used as an isolation chamber for leprosy-afflicted patients. It has a pediment decorated with a relief of a human skeleton.

Calle de Aragones

Calle de Aragones historical plaque

On the left side of the church is Calle de Aragones, the town’s oldest street, built in 1879. It was named after Fr. Juan Jose Aragones. At the end of the street, at the intersection of Calle Aeternidad, is the unique, unfinished cuartel.

The unfinished coral stone cuartel

The cuartel’s double row of arches

The construction of this barracks for the Guardia Civil was started by el gran maestro Don Marcos Sabandal but was halted with the arrival of the Americans in 1899. The coral stones used in its construction of its 19 cm. thick walls came from the remnants of the floor of the collapsed church bell tower. Its façade features a double row of arches.

The interior of the cuartel

Historical plaque of cuartel

The thick coral stone walls and gates surrounding the church complex, called paril, are topped by a series of inverted, cone-shaped stones. They were built in 1875 as a defense against raiding Muslim pirates.

The church walls and gates

Historical plaque of church walls and gates

Along Calle Eternidad, parallel to the coast, is a baluarte (a watchtower locally called lantawan), one of 7 built by the warrior-priest Fr. Julian Bermejo, parish priest of Boljo-on. Hexagonal in plan and occupying an area of 48 sq. m., it has massive 7 m. high crenellated walls. Only about a half of the watchtower remains. In 1813, this baluarte, as well as the other watchtowers, helped Fr. Bermejo and the townspeople of Oslob repel Moro slave raiders led by Sultan Goranding during a naval battle near the waters off Sumilon Island. Sultan Goranding was captured during the battle.

Baluarte (watchtower)

Historical plaque of baluarte

How to Get There: Oslob is located 117 kms. (a 3-hr. drive) south of Cebu City.

Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgen Mary (Baclayon, Bohol)

Posted on 3 October, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary

From the Bohol Bee Farm, it was back to our airconditioned coach for the short 15-min. (11-km.) drive, via the Dauis-Panglao Road and Tagbilaran East Road, to the town proper of Baclayon. Here, we made a stopover at the town’s Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgen Mary, one of the oldest churches in the country, the best preserved Jesuit-built church in the region and one of the best examples of Philippine Baroque combined with Western and Eastern influences.

The collapsed bell tower surrounded by scaffolds

Stacks of retrieved coral stone

Just like a number of Bohol’s Spanish-era churches, it too was damaged during the devastating October 15, 2013 earthquake which caused the collapse of its simple Early Renaissance portico facade and its formerly separated 21 m. high, quadrangular coralstone bell tower (connected to the church by the portico in 1875). Fortunately, its nave remains largely intact. An international team of heritage restoration experts have assessed damage to this as well as other Bohol churches and it could take around two to three years for the damaged churches to be restored.

The church interior, looking towards where the facade used to be

When we arrived, braces and scaffolds to shore and support the unstable structure (to prevent any further damage from future earthquakes) were being installed and temporary storage facilities were constructed. Loose coral stone blocks retrieved from the clearing of earthquake debris have been amassed and stacked at the spacious church patio for future documentation, labeling and use in future restoration work.

The main altar with its painted ceiling

Luckily for us, the church interior and its small adjacent Baclayon Museum can still be visited. , The ceiling and intricately-carved, gilded altar and icons plus two side retablos (altar backdrop), all dating back to the Jesuit era, were all spared from destruction. The floor’s glazed azulejo tiles, imported from Mexico and Spain and installed in 1875 after the completion of the portico, were also spared.

Left side altar

Right side altar

The museum, located at the second floor of the former convent (now the Immaculata High School), displays centuries-old relics, religious artifacts and antiquities dating back to the 16th century. The church inventory books have helped in dating some pieces. However, we weren’t allowed to take photographs inside.

The Baclayon Museum

Its impressive amount of preserved liturgical material includes an ivory statue of the crucified Christ looking towards heaven; relics of St. Ignatius of Loyola; a statue of the Blessed Virgin said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon; old gold embroidered ecclesiastical vestments; books with carabao skin covers; and librettos of church music written in Latin on sheep skins.

Stairs leading up to Baclayon Museum

There are also cuadro paintings executed by famed 19^th century Filipino painter Liberato Gatchalian in 1859. Among the Baclayon cantorals (large handwritten music books) on display is the Misa Baclayana, a musical setting for the Mass which has been revived and is part of the repertoire of the Loboc Children’s choir.

Church of St. Peter the Apostle and the Alfonso L. Uy Promenade (Loboc, Bohol)

Posted on 1 October, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

From the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary, we returned to our airconditioned coach and proceeded, via the Tagbilaran City-Corella-Sikatuna-Loboc Rd., on our 14.5-km./15- min. drive to Loboc where we were to have a late lunch while cruising the Loboc River. We arrived at the Loboc Tourism Complex by 1:30 PM. Across the complex is the Church of St. Peter the Apostle, the second oldest church in Bohol and its first declared National Cultural Treasure. Built in 1602 by Fr. de Torres, it was destroyed by fire in 1638. The present church was built in 1734.

The church facade 11 years ago

The ruined facade

The church I saw was just a broken shell of what I saw 11 years ago as the church sustained major damage during the devastating October 15, 2013, 7.2 magnitude earthquake. Its Early Renaissance façade was completely destroyed while major damage could be seen at the lateral walls and ceiling of the church as well as its convent. The whole church has been fenced in as its collapsed middle section cannot be entered at all. The pipe organ was said to among the elements of the church that were spared from damage.

View of the church from the side

The collapsed middle section

Its separate 21-m. high, 4-storey octagonal stone bell tower, located about 30 m. (98 ft.) across the street from the church, also collapsed leaving less than half the tower standing. Years ago, the timely objection by the Lobocnons prevented the bell tower’s destruction when a huge concrete bridge, not justified by any traffic, was being built.

The bell tower prior to the earthquake

What remains of the collapsed bell tower

At that time, the townspeople had expressed their apprehension that driving the piles to support the ramp, from the superstructure to ground level, might destroy the church, the belfry or both.The project was thus discontinued and this unfinished white elephant of a bridge, that stuck out like a sore thumb in the town center, has somehow been put to good use, having been converted, in 2008, into the Alfonso L. Uy Promenade. Sadly, what man failed to destroy, nature almost succeeded in doing.

The Alfonso L. Uy Promenade

The unfinished bridge today

To turn the bridge into a promenade, Arch. German Torero, a National Commission on Culture and the Arts (NCCA)-accredited architect, was tasked to carefully design it so that it will blend with the design of the nearby church and bell tower. Some PhP4 million in corporate funds was also spent to install tiles, build a stairway on the Poblacion side and adding enhancements. Today, the promenade, now a tourist attraction, is used as a park as well as viewing platform to see the damaged (and, hopefully, soon to be repaired) church and bell tower

Church of St. Monica (Alburquerque, Bohol)

Posted on 1 October, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

The Church of St. Monica

From the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary, we again boarded our airconditioned coaster and made our second stopover, along the highway, at the Church of St.. Monica in Alburquerque (nicknamed by the Boholanos as “Albur”).

The pasadizo (arcade) connecting the church with the convent

Situated on a low knoll, this church was first built of wood and bamboo in 1842. Later, it was replaced by a larger and sturdier church in 1856. The present coralstone church, started in 1885 by Fr. Manuel Muro (1882 to 1896), was continued by his successor in 1896 and completed during the 1920s and 30s.

The convent

The church’s entrance is shaded by a portico (actually the choir loft) from which a stair leads to a Moorish-inspired square bell tower with bells dating to 1867. It also has arched openings and a decorative band on the edges of the pediment. The side walls are supported by buttresses.

A buttress supporting the side wall

The convent, built with sont, wood and, on the second floor, with, tabique (wattle and daub) walls, was started by Fr. Tomas Fernandez (1869 to 1875) and finished in 1879 by Fr. Antonio Munro (1876-1879). It is connected to the church by a pasadizo (arcade), unique to Bohol and, together, they form one of the more picturesque church complexes in Bohol. A series of arches link the church, pasadizo and convent.

The wooden pillars and the Guy Custodio-restored painted ceiling

The generous use of reinforced concrete for the Romanesque-style façade and the central bell tower, which is integrated into the façade, probably helped save the church from serious damage during the October 15, 2013 earthquake. Some coral stone from the facade was detached and fell to the floor but that was all we saw.

Plaque installed by National Historical Commission

Upon entering the church, we were awed by the painted ceiling which was done by Ray Francia from April 12 to August 3, 1932 and recently restored by Manila-born but Spain-based artist Guy Custodio. The massive pillars are actually large tree trunks (a rarity among Philippine churches) masked by metal sheets.

Church of St. Bartholomew (Nagcarlan, Laguna)

Posted on 26 August, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Liliw, Jandy, Maricar, Violet, Lanny and I continued on our way to the next Laguna town of Nagcarlan. This historic mission town was founded in 1583 by Franciscan Fr. Tomas de Miranda (known in history to have planted the first grains of wheat in the country). It became an independent municipality in 1595. This would be my second visit to this town, my first being 15 years ago (April 4, 1999).

Church of St. Bartholomew

As such, I was excited to revisit the town’s prominent landmarks – the Church of St. Bartholomew and the Underground Cemetery, both of which were featured in my articles written for the defunct TODAY (now Manila Standard TODAY) as well as in my first book “A Philippine Odyssey: A Collection of Featured Travel Articles” (New Day Publishers, 2005) and a previous blog entry in B.L.A.S.T.. My photos of these places were taken with roll film then.

The church interior

Being a long time ago, a lot has changed with the town. For one, there were now many one way-streets and it took some time, and patience, before we reached the church located opposite the market but far from the municipal hall (which is nearer to the Underground Cemetery).

The church retablo

Violet, Jandy and Lanny at church entrance

Violet, Jandy and Lanny at the church entrance

Restored in “Laguna Baroque” style by Fr. Vicente Velloc (the same priest who built the Underground Cemetery), its impressive brick facade features super-positioned orders consisting of coupled columns on the first level and single columns (reaching only halfway on the walls) on the second. Its pediment has a Baroque-inspired slightly curved raking cornice.

The unusual 4-storey bell tower

The unusual, 4-storey bell tower, built by Fr. Fernando de la Puebla, is topped by Muslim-inspired crenelations. Unlike in Pagbilao (Quezon) and Majayjay, we weren’t able to climb it as the door leading up to its stairs was locked.

The plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI)

The plaque installed by the Historical Research and Markers Committee

How To Get There: Nagcarlan is located 102 kms. from Manila, 106 kms. from Sta. Cruz and 8.7 kms. from Majayjay.

Church of St. John the Baptist (Liliw, Laguna)

Posted on 26 August, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

After lunch at Liliw Fast Food, I took advantage of a lull in the rain and walked up the road towards the town’s red brick and adobe Church of St. John the Baptist. This church was first built in wood in October 1620, rebuilt in stone from 1643 to 1646 but was partially destroyed during the July 18, 1880 earthquake. The church and convent were reconstructed in 1885 but partially burned on April 6, 1898.

Church of St. John the Baptist

The church’s elegant, 3-level Baroque-style facade, divided by superpositioned columns into 7 segments and extending up to the pediment, has a semicircular arched main entrance finished with irregularly cut block of stones surmounted by layers of bricks, a bas-relief depicting the Baptism of Christ by St. John the Baptist on the second level and a centrally located statued niche on the undulating pediment.

The church’s three retablos

On the right is the immense, moss-covered, 3-storey bell tower covered by a dome and topped by a tower. It has a good view of Laguna de Bay. Inside the church are retablos (altar backdrops) finished in gold leaf. The 4-level retablo mayor (main altar) at the center contains 13 niches housing statues of saints. The center of the lowest level contains the tabernacle. The two side retablos houses 4 niches of saints. A stained glass dome is located above the main altar. Regretfully, the ceiling of red brick and mahogany-finished wood was painted white.

The dome above altar

Before leaving, I entered a small passageway to the left of the main entrance to visit the Capilla de Buenaventura, a small chapel dedicated to Franciscan Fr. Pedro de San Buenaventura, author of Vocabulario de la Lengua Tagala, the first Tagalog dictionary which was printed in Pila, Laguna in 1613. His image is enclosed in a glass case which is believed to be 500 years old. Here, I lighted a bundle of 7 multi-colored candles which I bought for PhP40. On the right side of the church’s entrance is the church’s Perpetual Adoration Chapel.

Capilla de Buenaventura

The church’s grounds, developed to promote Christian teachings for pilgrims, has a patio with a white-painted statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus flanked by several whitewashed statues of different saints, the child Jesus and the Virgin Mary.

The church’s patio

Church of St. John the Baptist: Poblacion, Liliw 4004, Laguna. Tel: (049) 563-3511 and (049) 234-1031.

How To Get There: Liliw is located 110 kms. from Manila and 17 kms. from Sta. Cruz.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is also a copy editor for two publishing houses; travel writer; blogger; architectural historian; author; concert. movie and musical reviewer (for www.pep.ph); and a motivational speaker.

As a free-lance travel writer, he has, in the past, contributed articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day and Bluprint. He currently writes for Artplus Magazine and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.