Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada (Banff, Alberta)

Posted on 7 July, 2026 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

On our first whole day in Banff, we departed Douglas Fir Resorts & Chalets for the short 3.8-km. (10-min.) drive to The Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada, the first ever federally protected reserve in Canada and the birthplace of the country’s national park system (now, Canada has 37 national parks, 11 national park reserves, and 1004 national historic sites, 171 of which are administered by Parks Canada). As we arrived in July, well within between June 19 and September 7, 2026 (when Parks Canada waived all entry fees for visitors this summer), our entrance to the site was free.

A special place for Indigenous Peoples for over ten thousand years (and continues to be so to this day), with important and longstanding cultural significance, it is a gathering place for sharing stories about conservation and the connection between people and the land. Together with Banff National Park, it is part of the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy, the Îyârhe Nakoda of the Chiniki, Bearspaw, and Goodstoney First Nations; the Tsuut’ina First Nation; and the Métis Nation of Alberta.

The author, Kyle, Jandy and Grace inside The Cave

Here’s the historical timeline of the site:

In 1859, the first written recorded reference to hot springs here was made by James Hector of the Palliser Expedition.
In 1875, Joe Healey happened upon the Cave and Basin site long after Indigenous Peoples.
In 1883, Frank McCabe and brothers Tom and William McCardell, three Canadian Pacific Railway workers, using a felled tree, descended through the skylight entrance into the cave and the thermal springs.
In 1884, they constructed a small cabin nearby with the intention of commercializing the Cave and Basin site. In those days, hot springs were extremely valuable since hot water was not readily available from a tap like it is today. The CPR workers knew this would attract people and wanted to monetize it. Conflicting claims by other parties prompted intervention by the Canadian government headed by John A. Macdonald.
In 1885, an order-in-council reserved 26 sq. kms. (10 sq. mi.) around the Cave and Basin, the Banff Hot Springs Reserve. This was the genesis of Canada’s national parks system.
In 1886, the Canadian government held an inquiry into the various private claims to settle on compensation. That same year, an artificial tunnel was driven into the Cave and Basin to aid visitation. Its construction, according to articles in the Calgary Herald at the time, was contentious even in 1887.
In 1887, a bathhouse, the first structure on the site, was built.
In 1904, a new, naturally-heated pool was built as the existing one proved inadequate by 1902,
In 1912, bottled water from the Cave and Basin site was sold for its alleged curative powers.
In 1914, a stone bathhouse, designed by architect Walter S. Painter, was completed and opened to the public. Many of the early structures were built by detainees held at a World War I Ukrainian Canadian internment camp located nearby. The camp had a significant Ukrainian contingent. It continued to operate until 1994.
In 1924, western mosquitofish were introduced into the hot springs in an attempt to control mosquitos. Tropical fish illegally introduced into the lower springs by local aquarium enthusiasts may have contributed to the extinction of the Banff longnose dace.
In 1975, the pools were closed.
On November 13, 1981, the Cave and Basin was formally declared a National Historic Site.
In 1985, on the anniversary of the order-in-council that established the original reserve around the Cave and Basin, Canada’s national parks system celebrated its centennial. That same year, the pools were also restored.
On August 20, 1985, Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh and consort of the Queen of Canada, unveiled the National Historic Site plaque.
In 1992, the pools were permanently closed. An interpretive center now uses the structures.
In 2000, the Committee on the Status of Endangered Wildlife in Canada listed the Banff Springs snail as an endangered species. Cave and Basin hot springs are also notable as the habitat for this snail.
In the summer of 2010, First Nations ceremonies and rituals began again in the Cave and Basin. (the Stoney people stopped coming to the Cave once Canadian Pacific Railway workers and settlers arrived in Banff).
On September 13, 2013, a permanent exhibit about Canada’s first national internment operations was opened at the Cave and Basin site (it was postponed three months by extensive flooding across southern Alberta), with an address by Jason Kenney, Minister of Employment and Social Development and Minister for Multiculturalism

Located within the Canadian Rocky Mountains, at the site of natural thermal mineral springs around which Canada’s first national park, Banff National Park, was established, it is the lowest component of nine sulphurous hot springs clustered, in three groups on the northeast flank of Sulphur Mountain, all located along the Sulphur Mountain Thrust Fault below Devonian limestones.

The mineral spring issues from Sulphur Mountain where surface water penetrates the rock, absorbing minerals and being heated, by geothermal energy, from an estimated depth of 3 kms., to emerge in a cave and in a nearby basin before joining the Bow River drainage system below.

At the entrance is a rotunda with interpretative panels commemorating the historic 1883 discovery by railway workers plus the official National Historic Site bronze plaque, unveiled by Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh on August 20, 1984, designating the thermal springs as the birthplace of Canada’s national parks system.

Near the entrance, at the south belvedere of the main building, is a narrow artificial tunnel leading to The Cave, a dimly-lit natural grotto and hot spring. The tunnel ceiling was low in some places, so I had to mind my head. Before entering the cave, we took time to read the education displays and panels at Cave Story Hall to have a deeper understanding of the impact and significance of what we are seeing when we enter The Cave.

The oil-based mural of Roland Rollinmud at Cave Story Hall

Near the entranceway and and tunnel of the hall is a remarkable oil-based mural, created by artist Roland Rollinmud (an elder from Stoney Nakoda Nation) and presented to Parks Canada in 2011, depicting Indigenous elders climbing down into the cave through the vent hole on rawhide ladders

This large hollowed-out cavern, with a steaming mineral pool below, is the only cave large enough to comfortably accommodate groups of people. A small vent hole, in the rock ceiling, acts as a natural skylight, letting in enough sunlight to reflect off the pool and glisten on the smooth red and white flowstone layers running down the cave walls. You’ll also find stalactites and stalagmites, glacial till and a small trickling waterfall.

A single elevated platform overlooks the water. There are stanchions in place to make it abundantly clear you enter along the righthand side of the hall in a line that terminates at the platform. After your time on the platform, you exit via the left-hand side of the tunnel. Relatively small, the cave has a single opening at the top that lets in natural light.

Immediately following its “discovery,” almost all of the delicate cave formations had been stripped out thinking it would improve the accessibility and aesthetic. Steam continually rose from the geothermally heated waters, and the earthy mineral scent of hydrogen sulfide filled the air, which kind of makes you second guess wanting to jump in. While the rotten egg smell never goes away, it does become tolerable.

The original bathhouse now the Interpretive Centre and Museum

The former original 1887 bathhouse and restored 1916 interior public swimming pool complex for nearly 100 years, built with Classical Revival details, has now been renovated into an Interpretive Centre and Museum. Visitors here can enjoy interactive and interpretive media exhibits, detailing the 1883 discovery of the thermal hot springs by railway workers, and short films that takes you through a journey of Canada’s National Parks, and heritage of thermal waters.

On top of the main building are the covered Belvedere Viewing Decks, overlooking the historic site, that offer panoramic views of the surrounding Canadian Rocky Mountains, marshland and mountain ridges.

View of the Canadian Rocky Mountains from the view deck

Outside the old pool complex, adjacent to The Cave, is The Basin (a pool of mineral water), the natural springs which flow into the Cave and Basin. It has been rewilded as close to its original state as possible and is now protected. A helpful ranger explained more about the animals that call these thermal pools home. They include tiny fish that have been introduced to these thermal waters (mosquito fish, jewelfish and sailfin molly), damselfly (Argia vivida) larvae that were in among the algae and, if you look closely, you’ll catch a glimpse of the endangered Banff Springs Snail (Physella johnsoni) in the pools.

Bryan, Cheska, Kyle and Jandy searching for Banff Spring Snails among the algae.

These tiny snails that are only found in the Upper Hot, Kidney, Middle, Cave, Basin and Vermilion Lake Springs in this area. All of the thermal pools, except the Banff Upper Hot Springs, a separate facility some 5 kms. (3 mi.) southeast of the Cave and Basin, have been closed off to humans in order to preserve this limited habitat.

Located around the parking lot and historic bathing pavilion are large 8×8 ft. murals, painted on outdoor display boxes, which were placed during the spring-to-fall visitor season and can be viewed during regular site hours. These rotating large-scale outdoor mural projects were created by indigenous artists, in collaboration with the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies.

Cheska, Grace, Bryan and Kyle at the Discovery Boardwalk

Within the complex are the Discovery Boardwalks that lead you up the hill and through unique marshes created by the natural springs. Along the walk, you’ll encounter the original surface vent hole and, next to it, are vestiges of the log shanty, built between 1883 and 1885, known as ”the Hotel,” so they could stay close and protect it from other prospectors.

There are also few other smaller hot pools with bright blue-green waters and filled with pink bacteria and algae.

The boardwalks also feature educational signage, upper views of the Cave and Basin complex, and stunning, sweeping mountain and valley vistas of the Canadian Rocky Mountains. For those with stamina, you can hike along the 7.4-km. round trip Sundance Trail and the 2.7-km. Marsh Loop.

Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada: 311 Cave Ave., Banff, Alberta T1L 1K2. Tel:+1-403-762-1566. E-mail: caveandbasin@pc.gc.ca. Admission: $9.00 (adults), $7.50 (seniors) and free for children. Free admission on Canada Day. Open daily, from May 15 to October 15, 9:30 AM to 5 PM. Closed: September 21 to 24, 2026. Coordinates:

How to Get There: It is located about 2 kms. and a 30-min. walk from the town center. Once you cross the bridge, look for the dedicated walking trail. The Cave and Basin Trail will take you all the way there. From Banff, head south on Banff Avenue (the main street through Banff), over the Bow River Bridge to a T-intersection, and then turn right on Cave Avenue and follow the signs. The Cave and Basin parking lot is located at the end of this road. By bus, Roam bus route #4 will take you to the Cave and Basin.

Badlands Interpretive Trail (Drumheller, Alberta)

Posted on 2 July, 2026 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

After our tour of the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, we tried out the Badlands Interpretive Trail, a 1.4 to 1.6-km. (0.87 mi.) easy loop hiking trail, with about 27 m. (88 ft.) elevation gain, which is used extensively by the museum public and school programs. A trailhead, a few hundred meters east of the museum, marks a 1-km. long loop, where numbered interpretive signs recount the glacial forces that sculpted the badlands from 70-million year-old layers of sedimentary rock.

Check out “Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology”

Visitors can enjoy a self-guided tour through the trail, which is a popular destination for those interested in geology, paleontology, and natural history and suitable for all ages, offering stunning views of the surrounding badlands.

This trail, featuring two stairs, elevated viewing platforms (not fully wheelchair-accessible), and informative signs explaining local fossil history, plants and landscape creation, is part of the Canadian Badlands, an area known for its striking landscapes, including hoodoos, canyons, and coulees. We climbed up the elevated viewing platform just across the museum. Here we had panoramic bird’s eye views of the museum and the eroded valley.

The author and Grace at the elevated viewing platform

The Royal Tyrell Museum of Paleontology seen from the elevated viewing platform

Taking visitors through Midland Provincial Park and connecting to the Trans Canada Trail, the Badlands Interpretive Trail offer us a chance to explore the unique geological formations and rich paleontological history of the Drumheller region.

Grace, Kyle, Cheska, Bryan and Jandy begin their hike…..

One or two kilometers east of this path is another self-guided tour through the remains of the Midland. After descending the elevated viewing deck, we began our hike on the east side of the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology parking lot, staying on the marked golden gravel and paved paths to protect the fragile badlands ecosystem.

Benches, covered with grasses, are formed when sandstone layers are iron-rich, making them resistant to erosion

Small hill full of bentonite clay formed from ancient volcanic ash. Though seemingly harmless, any amount of moisture causes bentonite to swell and become very greasy and slippery.

As it was summer, it was the perfect time to look for tough plants that survive despite the hot, dry, and windy desert-like badlands conditions. They include flowering prickly pear cactuses (which have special stems with thick, waxy skin to trap water and sharp thorns for safety), sage (with strong aromatic leaves, it thrives in dry soil), scarlet mallow (produces bright, hardy flowers during summer months) and small populations of harebell and wild rose which bloom in sheltered or slightly cooler spots.

We also encountered a boulder-size fossil of an ancient giant redwood (Sequoiadendron), dating back roughly 72 million years to the Late Cretaceous period, that has been petrified and remains exposed by erosion. The fossil, existing long before the region eroded into today’s semi-arid badlands landscape, proves the local badlands area once had a warm, moist, subtropical climate comparable to modern-day Florida.

Hoodoos are delicate 5 to 7-m.tall sandstone spires capped with dense rock created by millions of years of wind, water, and frost erosion shaping soft sandstone and shale

If you want a longer walk, the path links up with other trails in the Midland Provincial Park and the wider local river park system. The trail provides educational signage that explains the area’s geology, ecology, and the significance of the dinosaur fossils found in the region.

This channel becomes a rushing, brown-colored torrent during heavy rains, eroding sediment off exposed bedrock surfaces and is ultimately carried away by the Red Deer River

Small metamorphic rock boulders which, unlike the surrounding landscape, do not have their origins in the Late Cretaceous but were carried southwestward, into this area, from the Canadian Shield by the glaciers of the Late Ice Age.

Badlands Interpretive Trail: at 1500 North Dinosaur Trail, Midland Provincial Park, Drumheller, Alberta. Admission is free.

How to Get There: the trail is located northeast and right next to the Royal Tyrrell Museum.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (Kyoto, Japan)

Posted on 31 March, 2026 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

On our last full day in Japan, we were to do a whole day tour Kyoto. Our first destination was the stunning Arashiyama Bamboo Forest which was 61.6-km. (over an hour’s drive) from our hotel. Also called the Sangano Bamboo Grove, is a 16 sq. km. (6.2 sq. mi.), natural bamboo forest consisting mostly of mōsō bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis).

Upon arrival, we made stops at the small Nonomiya Shrine and the Sogenchi Garden of the famous Tenryū-ji Temple. Brushwood fencing (koshibagaki), made from spicebush, are found along the paths through the bamboo forest.

Check out “Nonomiya Shrine” and “Sogenchi Garden”

The towering bamboo forest is an almost shocking contrast to the urbanity surrounding it. Growing tall on the edges of Kyoto, the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, a once tranquil nature spot, is now a series of tourist-packed wooden pathways that weave through the dense thicket of tall bamboo stalks that reach dozens of feet into the sky, creating a canopy.

However, if you can escape the sounds of camera shutters and boorish visitors, you can still hear the rustling of the leaves; bending, creaking, and swaying of the wood and trunks knocking together as the wind passes through the tightly packed plants, creating a peaceful sound like almost nothing else.

If you can find a time to visit the bamboo forest, when it is relatively empty, the combination of visual beauty and auditory calm can be one of a kind. There is no word, however, on how the place smells.

When the hordes of tourists aren’t drowning it out, the meditative natural noise is so lovely. In fact, Japan’s Ministry of the Environment has designated the location’s aural pleasures as one of the country’s governmentally-recognized “100 Soundscapes of Japan,” an initiative designed to encourage the local population to get out and appreciate the country’s acoustic wonders.

Along the way, we also passed by the Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, a historic burial ground featuring over 8,000 stone statues (rakan) and monuments, representing forgotten or lost souls, surrounded by a peaceful, less crowded bamboo forest.

At the end of the forest, we also came across the stunning station of the Sagano Scenic Railway (also dubbed the “Sagano Romantic Train”), a retro-style steam train, with open-air carriages, which takes passengers on a 7.3-km./25-min. journey along the scenic Huzu River Gorge.

Along exclusive, quieter pathways (closed to general pedestrians), we saw passengers on board jinrikishas (Japanese rickshaws) pulled by personal guides, a luxurious, crowd-dodging alternative to walking.

North of Arashiyama is the quirky, small but serene Mikami-jinja Shrine, a highly specialized landmark tucked away near the Sagano area. Built in 1961 by a Kyoto barber, it is the only shrine in Japan dedicated specifically to hair styling, beauty (cosmetics, hair washes, hair growth products, wigs, etc.) and hair health. It is dedicated to Fujiwara Uneme no Suke Masayuki, a historical Kamakura-period (1192 – 1333) hairdresser credited as the founder of the barbering profession in Japan. Their ema (wooden votive tablets) and charms are designed in the shape of a comb.

A highly popular stop for those in the beauty industry or anyone seeking remedies for hair loss and damage, visitors here can opt to have a small lock of hair cut by a priest and offered in a special bag at the shrine’s “hair mound” to pray for hair health. In front of the shrine is Ogura Pond which is famous for its lotus flowers.

Cherry blossoms in bloom along the Ogura-ike Pond

We got a welcome respite from the crowds of the nearby Bamboo Forest by making a left at the T-junction at the top of the hill and soon find ourselves at Kamayama-keon Park. As we arrived during the sakura (cherry blossom) period (late March and early April), the trees were in full bloom. Too bad we couldn’t make our way uphill and to the west as we could’ve seen some fine views down to the Hozu-gawa River and across Kyoto. Troops of wild monkeys are said to occasionally patrol the park.

Arashiyama Bamboo Forest: Sagaogurayama Tabuchiyamacho, Ukyo Ward, Arashiyama District, Kyoto, 616-8394 Japan. Tel: +81 75-343-0548. Prior to 2015, there was a charge to access the forest. Coordinates: 35°00′34″N 135°40′00″E.

How to Get There: The Arashiyama Bamboo Forest is situated northwest of Kyoto, near the Tenryū-ji temple and the Nonomiya Shrine. It is only 30 minutes or so from Kyoto city center.

teamLab Botanical Garden (Osaka, Japan)

Posted on 28 March, 2026 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

After our Tempozan Ferris Wheel ride and early dinner at Tempozan Harbor Village, we again boarded our van for 19-km. (25-min.) drive to experience the new interactive outdoor art exhibit of teamLab, an international art collective, at the 240,000 sq. m. Nagai Botanical Garden, an outdoor botanical garden in Nagai Park that opened in 1974.

Taking the light show out of the hustle and bustle of the city streets and into a more natural setting, teamLab aims to explore an environment where human perception expands from the artwork itself to the environment. Their stunning, immersive nighttime installation transformed the natural landscape into an interactive digital canvas.

From our drop-off point, it was still a long walk to the entrance. Nestled among the forests and fields of the botanical garden were a variety of illuminated exhibits, ranging in size and scope from subtle illuminations embedded in the grass to completely awe-inspiring radiant pillars that dance in the wind and reach into the sky. Once we entered the grounds, it felt like we were transported to a world, miles away from Osaka. Deep, meditative music filled the air as we walked through the wide pathway flanked by towering bald cypress trees.

While subtle at first, we began to notice that the lights illuminating the trees rose and fell in brightness, depending on your proximity to them. This is our first hint that this was more than just a walk in the garden—we were a part of the exhibit. We didn’t find any velvet ropes or “do not touch” signs here. Instead, we were encouraged to see how our interactions, within this unique “ecosystem,” would influence our surroundings.

As we walked through the garden of The Resonating Trees Exhibit, the trees shone brightly. When we passed close by, the trees changed color and emitted a unique musical tone. This wave of light and sound continuously spred outward to the surrounding trees. If light approached from a distance, it signified the presence of other people or wildlife, turning the ecosystem into an active canvas. Because the artwork interacted directly with nature, the display shifted in response to the wind, rain, and the natural seasonal changes of the trees.

Rounding a corner, we saw The Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind installation, widely considered the signature and most spectacular open-air piece of the permanent exhibition. It brings the invisible forces of nature—the wind and the physical flight of the birds—to life. Standing tall, on the edge of the lake, looking not unlike Van Gogh’s Starry Night coming to life here in Japan, the flowing swirls of color react to the flight paths of any passing birds that live in Nagai Park, further adding to the layers of interactivity throughout the gardens.

Lines and swirling patterns of bright, shifting light (in vibrant gradations of red, blue, green, and yellow) trace flight paths across the night sky and the installation’s structures. Because it reacts continuously in real time to actual wind speeds and the movement of the ecosystem, no two movements are ever exactly the same. Every second of the display is completely unique.

Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit

Continuing along the pathway, through the trees, and the sights continued to change with the landscape at The Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit. Small, waist-high glowing eggs fill the forest around the camelia garden, which foreshadows the absolutely overwhelming mass of 10 ft. tall orbs in the eucalyptus garden. During the day, their mirrored surfaces reflect the surrounding environment but, after sunset, they come alive.

Getting lost amongst these luminous ovoid sculptures was a highlight for us, putting a smile on our face. As we walked among them or when the wind blew, the ovoids react, glowing in up to 61 distinct colors and emitting unique sounds. When we pushed one ovoid or when it responded to its surroundings, it echoed out to the neighboring ovoids, creating a continuous, rippling wave of light and sound throughout the entire garden.

Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life – Eucalyptus

At the Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life Exhibit, the densely packed, standing ovoids of light are autonomous. When an ovoid was pushed over, by people moving through or blown down by the wind, it rose back up as the color of its light changed and emitted a tone specific to that color.

The surrounding ovoids responded one after another, continuously changing to the same color and emitting the same tone. When the wind was not blowing and the people nearby were not interacting with the ovoids, their lights began to blink slowly.

At the Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake – Fire Exhibit, each of the lamps on the Oike Lake’s surface floated autonomously. When we stood still near a lamp, or when the wind blew a lamp, it shone brightly and produced a tone.

The light of that lamp spred to nearby lamps, one by one, as they resonated with the same tone, continuing on to the trees on the islet in the center of the lake. If light approached from the other side, it signified the presence of people there, making them more aware of the existence of others in the same space. When the wind was not blowing and people were not nearby, the lamps began to blink slowly.

At the Pillars That Dance with the Wind Exhibit, the installation challenged the traditional notion that human structures must be solid and stable (like concrete). Instead, the pillars were soft, flexible, and defined entirely by their environment. The pillars changed in number, movement, and height based on the wind, rain, and humidity. They also interacted dynamically with visitors who walked near or touched them, creating patterns that were never repeated. Because the artwork relied so heavily on real-time environmental data, strong winds or heavy rain could cause the installation to be temporarily closed for safety.

teamLab Botanical Garden: Nagai Park, 1-23 Nagaikoen, Higashisumiyoshi-ku Ward, Osaka. Nighttime only; hours vary by season (usually opens from dusk, roughly 7 PM to 7:30 PM, until 9:30 PM with last entry at 8:30 PM). Admission: ~¥2,000 to ¥2,200 for adults (prices can fluctuate slightly depending on peak or off-peak seasons), with discounts available for students and children. Tel: 06-6699-5120. Website: teamlab.art/e/botanicalgarden/

How to Get There: Take the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line to Nagai Station, a 10-min. walk on the Midosuji subway line. Take exit 3 and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates. From Exit 1 or 2, it is a brief 10 to 15-minute walk into Nagai Park to reach the botanical garden entrance. Via the JR Railway, it can also be reached via the JR Nagai Station, a 12-min. walk, on the JR Hanwa line (take the East Exit and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates). Via the Kintetsu Railway, it is 15-min. walk from Harinakano Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka line. Take the West Exit and walk through Nagai park to access the admission gates.

Sung Hot Cave (Ha Long, Vietnam)

Posted on 15 November, 2025 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

The large, mysterious and beautiful Sung Sot Cave (also called “Surprising Cave”), on Bo Hon Island in the center of Ha Long Bay and the Tonkin Gulf, is the largest (it can accommodate up to 1,000 visitors at a time) and, possibly, the most prominent and most frequented by visitors of all the caverns in Halong. Situated in a limestone massif, with an extremely developed karst terrain, is known for its impressive stalactites that hang from the ceiling, stalagmites that rise from the floor and vast, multi-chambered interior.

The winding stone stairway leading up to the cave entrance

In 1901, French geologist Henri Mansuy, in search of minerals, discovered this cave, describing it as “a cathedral crafted by nature herself,” giving rise to the moniker Grotte de la surprise, “the cave of surprise.” However, this name was not officially recognized until nearly 40 years later when a French travelogue was published in 1938. In 1993, just one year before UNESCO declared Ha Long Bay’s core region as a World Natural Heritage site, Sung Sot Cave welcomed its first visitors. Dubbed the “Opera House of Ha Long Bay,” it was named one of the top ten most beautiful caves in the world by the Czech Association of Travel Agents and Brokers.

The stone stairway amidst lush vegetation

According to legend, thousands of years ago, during the reign of King Hung, the Van Lang kingdom faced an invasion by the Yin from China. In this moment of crisis, Thanh Giong, a three-year-old boy, miraculously appeared to aid the king. Riding a colossal iron horse and wielding a mighty sword, Thanh Giong, with extraordinary strength and courage, defeated the invaders. Breathtaking Halong Bay is said to be the site of this epic confrontation. After the battle, Thanh Giong ascended to heaven from this cave, leaving behind his legendary steed and weapon.

Ha Long Bay has many other caves with varying degrees of accessibility and visitor numbers, some of which may be affected by tourism. Other caves with stalactites exist in the bay. Cap La Cave, in the Bai Tu Long Bay area, known for its unique stalactites and pristine nature, though it may not be currently accessible to visitors. Sung Sot Cave is an old phreatic cave which also include Tam Cung, Lau Dai, Thien Cung, Dau Go, Hoang Long and Thien Long.

Nowadays, these caves lie at various heights. From its truncated entrance chambers on a ledge high on the cliff, a passage of more than 10 m. high and wide descends to the south. Covering a total area of more than 12,000 sq. m., the cave is divided into three chambers with a wealth of stalagmites of various shapes.

The island, and its cave, was the second stop of our Ambrose Day Cruise. Upon arrival at the island, Jandy and I, as well as other tourists from other boats, disembarked and queued up to climb around 100 winding stone steps, surrounded by lush forests, and then descend 10 stone steps to reach the cave entrance which is a small rock breach, 25 m. above sea level, halfway up the limestone mountain.

Check out “Ambrose Day Cruise”

The path inside the cave was through an 800-m. long stone walkway, with gradual ups and downs, and lit, with colorful lampposts, to highlight its features, creating a vivid tableau and transforming the cave’s cold, empty feeling into a lively, captivating scene. Some parts have a diffused orange light that creates a fanciful atmosphere, making the space more mysterious and attractive. A dry cave, it allows for comfortable one-way exploration on foot, with a separate entrance and exit.

At the. first chamber, the smallest of the three chambers at nearly 3,000 sq. m, is likely a “waiting room.” Here, there is a small, serene and shallow freshwater lake formed by rainwater trickling through the limestone cracks in the cave ceiling, with clear water that allows you to view the lake’s bottom, adding to the chamber’s mystical ambiance. Its ceiling is covered with a layer of “velvet carpet,” with gleaming stalactite chandeliers hung 25 to 30 m. high in the outer chamber, including stone sculptures, banyan trees, dinosaurs, elephants, flowers, seals, etc.

The “Stone Waterfall,” on the eastern wall, is a massive, 18-m. wide flowstone formation that appears to be frozen in mid-flow. Created by centuries of mineral-rich water flowing down a cave wall, its varying mineral content creates striking color variations ranging from pure white to amber and deep russet tones.

The “Elephant,” near the transition between the first and second chambers, is a stalactite-stalagmite combination with a massive body created by the joining of the ceiling and floor, a clearly-defined trunk and tusks formed by small stalactites.

The second chamber (known as the “Royal Garden”), stretching an impressive 7,000 sq. m., is connected to the first chamber by a narrow rock path. It opened to an enormous space with and enormous freshwater lake, stunning rock formations and huge and beautiful stalactites and stalagmites in unique and interesting shapes such as a buddha, a bird, a monkey climbing on the rock column, etc.. The “Royal Garden Stone,” a massive, flat-topped formation in the center of the chamber, resembles a royal viewing platform surrounded by stalagmites that look like courtiers paying homage.

The “Stone Curtain,” along the western wall, are thin, delicate (some just 2 to 3 cms. thick) and wavy stalactites that create an appearance of stone curtains or draperies, with beautiful banding patterns caused by varying mineral content. The “Sword Lake,” a small, sword-shaped pool in the center of the chamber, is said to mirror Hanoi’s Sword Lake. During certain lighting conditions, the stalactite’s reflection creates the illusion of a sword rising from the water. The “Buddha’s Palm,” a flat, hand-shaped formation near the exit, is believed to resemble Buddha’s hand in blessing. Though conservation efforts now discourage this practice, many visitors still touch this formation for good luck.

Inside this chamber, there are also said to be monkeys scurrying around in quest of food and fun. Compared to the first chamber, this chamber’s karstification process has resulted in a clearer and more ventilated atmosphere due to its ceiling being peppered with thousands of small holes or natural skylights that creates magical light beams during midday hours. There are also several delicate rimstone pools, with crystal-clear waters reaching depths of 30 cms. that reflect the surrounding formations, contain unique microorganisms that have adapted to the cave environment.

The truly breathtaking third and last chamber, further inside, is the biggest chamber, able to accommodate thousands of people. Inside is a 12 m. high rock formation said to be the petrified form of the legendary, stern-faced Vietnamese hero Thanh Giong.

Near the entrance is a stone block, fashioned like a massive, battle-ready horse, and a long sword that Thanh Giong left behind to drive away evil spirits. Also inside the cave are little ponds and lakes which are regarded as the hoofprints of Thanh Giong’s horse or Giong’s footprints. The cave’s highest point is a “royal garden” with a lake, many plant species, several bird species and panoramic views of the bay.

The final ascent to the cave’s exit took around 275 steps plus another 250 steps, another physical effort, down to the dock. Thought beautiful, with stunning natural formations and a cool, humid environment, our cave exploration was very tiring due to the inclines.

How to Get There: Sung Sot Cave, one of the destinations in the tour route 2 (one of 6 routes that bring visitors around Halong Bay), is a short boat ride, from two major ports in Halong – Tuần Châu Wharf (about 12 kilometers from Halong city center) or Halong International Cruise Port (it came into operation in 2019 and is closer to the city center and hence easy to travel), to the island.

To visit Sung Sot cave, travelers must first purchase entrance tickets to the harbor and then boat tickets. Tickets can be purchased at the booth on the right of the entrance of Tuần Châu Wharf. If you want to visit this cave, you need to buy a ticket for route 2, the only one with swimming and full of all kinds of experiences, from visiting caves, boating (or kayaking), swimming, sightseeing and relaxing. This is a half-day tour that lasts from noon to evening. It includes attractions such as Cave Park Conservation Center – Soi Sim Island, Ti Top Island, Sung Sot Cave, Bo Nau Cave, Ho Dong Tien Cave, Luon Cave, Trong Cave, and Trinh Nu Cave.

Entrance tickets for route 2:

Day trip ticket: VND 290,000 (USD 12.1) per person

Ticket for 2 days and 1 night: VND 590,000 (USD 24.6) per person

Ticket for 3 days and 2 nights: VND 790,000 (USD 33) per person

Boat tickets:

The boat fare for individual passengers for route 2 (including Sung Sot cave) is regulated by Halong Bay Management Board as VND 200,000 (USD 8.4) or VND 250 000 (USD 10.5)/pax + entrance ticket (not included) including food, drink and 50 000 VND (2.1 USD)/pax ticket for bamboo boat/kayaking and tour guides). The tour lasts from 5 to 6 hours. The departure times of the boats are 6:30 – 8 AM and 12 – 1:00 PM.

Ambrose Day Cruise (Ha Long, Vietnam)

Posted on 15 November, 2025 by Benjie Layug — 2 Comments ↓

After breakfast at Tru by Hilton Viet Tri City Centre, we all boarded our coach for the over 4-hour/258-km. drive, including short stopovers at Hanoi and Hai Durong, to Ha Long Bay arriving, before noon, at the Ha Long International Cruise Port which just came into operation in 2019, is closer to the city center and, hence, easy to travel.

Upon entering the terminal, we walked towards the berthing area of Ambrose Cruise which was to take us on a a modern, 5-star luxury six-hour day cruise of Ha Long Bay.

Launched in 2025, Ambrose Cruise is a 40 m. long, vessel, with three luxurious decks with an area of 400 sq. m.. Built in an elegant and sophisticated Indochina style, it can accommodate up to 99 guests.

L-R: Grace, Jandy, Lorraine and Lourdes at the sun deck

It has an infinity Jacuzzi pool on the second deck, an ocean-view restaurant and bar, a grand stage with a large LED screen and state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems, and a spacious outdoor lounge area. I liken it to a “floating hotel” with high-class, 5-star standards.

L-R: Lourdes, the author, Grace, Jandy and Lorraine at the dining area

We arrived just in time for a premium gourmet buffet lunch with a wide selection of local traditional Vietnamese dishes, including vegetarian/vegan options, seafood, fish and chicken. The spacious dining area featured a wooden ceiling, a yellow lighting system and black and white pattern floor tiles.

We were soon on our way and, as we were dining, we had great panoramic views, from large windows, of the city’s harbor as well as its iconic landmarks such as the breathtaking Sun Wheel (a towering Ferris wheel, with 64 cabins, perched atop Ba Deo Mountain), the Queen Cable Car (known for having the world’s tallest cable car tower and a double-decker cabin) and the Ban Chay Bridge (a unique cable-stayed bridge) and, soon enough, of limestone islands such as Hon Ga Choi, Hon Dinh Huong and Hon Cay Dua.

The first stop in our itinerary was Bo Hon Island where tourists can ride traditional bamboo rafts (a relaxed, local-guided option perfect for families or those wanting to soak in the scenery without paddling) or go kayaking (a self-paced adventure), paddling through the low archway of the natural tunnel of Luon Cave (Hang Luon), into a serene, enclosed lagoon, surrounded by limestone cliffs with lush vegetation, where you can spot rare orchids, ferns and playful golden monkeys.

Our next stop, also on Bo Hon Island, was Sung Sot Cave/Surprising Cave (Thien Cung Cave), the largest and the most beautiful cave in Ha Long Bay.

Check out “Sung Hot Cave”

After disembarking from the boat, Jandy and I and joined other tourists, from other boats, in exploring the cave’s stunning formations of stalactites and stalagmites and two vast chambers.

Our last stop was the 3.7-hectare Ti Top Island, one of the smallest islands making up Ha Long Bay and a not-to-be-missed stopover for tourists in the journey of exploring the bay. Originally called Nghia Dia or Hong Thap Tu, the island was renamed after the Russian cosmonaut Gherman Titov during his visit to Ha Long Bay in 1962. Here, tourist can go swimming along the beautiful, crescent-shaped Vang Trang Beach, with its smooth white sand beach, or hike up 400 steep steps, up a 100-meter high hill, to the island’s peak for spectacular panoramic bay views.

Come sunset, a party was held on the sundeck where guests relaxed and served Vietnamese tea, cake, fresh fruits, and snacks.

Ambrose Cruises: 173 An Duong Vuong Street, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel/ Whatsapp: +84.987.876.013. Email: contact@cruise-halong-bay.com.

Sun World Fansipan Legend – The Summit (Sapa, Vietnam)

Posted on 14 November, 2025 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Upon arrival at the Fansipan Cable Car Station, there’s still a little more to go to get to the summit of Mount Fansipan. We had two options – walking up the remaining 600 steps or, from the Fansipan Cable Car Station, we can walk, for about 10 mins., up a wide stone stairway to reach the Do Quyen Funicular Station and take the 2-min. funicular ride to the Truc May Funicular Station, which will bring us very close to the summit, a good option if you’re tired, short on time, or traveling with kids or elderly family members. We chose the latter.

Check out “Fansipan Legend Cable Car”

Mount Fansipan, the “Roof of Indochina,” is Vietnam’s and the Indochinese Peninsula’s (comprising Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia) highest peak. Nestled amid the at the gorgeous part of Hoàng Liên National Park, in Lào Cai province, Northwestern Vietnam, this spectacular mountain, well-known for its lively environment, which is home to unusual flora and wildlife found only in this enchanting region, is located only 9 kms. southwest of the lovely Sa Pa Town.

Jandy and Grace beside the Fansipan steel Pyramid

Its height was originally measured at 3,143 m. (10,312 ft.) but, in 1909, this value was later adjusted to 3,147.3 m. (10,326 ft.). Administratively, it is shared between Tam Đường District, Lai Châu and Sa Pa town.

The weather in Fansipan varies depending on the height – the higher you climb, the colder you feel. At the top, the temperature ranges from 5°C (41°F) – 25°C (77°F) in the summer and from 0°C (32°F) – 9°C (48°F) in the winter. The humidity is high, from 66% – 95%, with 2 distinctive seasons – wet and dry season.

We arrived in time for the moving 10:30 AM flag-raising ceremony (held from Fridays to Sundays and on major national holidays) at the site of the 25 m. (approximately 82 ft.) high Fansipan Peak Flagpole. An iconic national symbol located at the summit of Mount Fansipan, it is the tallest flagstaff in the region and a major attraction for visitors.

This national architectural masterpiece, considered a sacred symbol marking Vietnamese national sovereignty and pride, was crafted from sturdy Thanh Hoa blue stone and durable Tu Thiet wood which can withstand the extreme mountain weather conditions. The base of the flagpole features intricate carvings representing various key Vietnamese cultural landmarks and ethnic group traditions, including Cham Towers, stilt houses from the Northwest, and the landscapes of Halong Bay.

The summit is crowned with the iconic Fansipan Steel Pyramid, a triangular landmark. A must-have photo for every traveler, this 20-kg. stainless steel pyramid monument, inscribed with “Fansipan 3143m,” is a popular spot for taking photos for tourists as it serves as a landmark to prove that one has reached the highest point in Vietnam and the former French Indochina region.

The initial metal pyramid was made and installed, on the mountain’s peak, by Soviet engineers from Hòa Bình province, in 1985. The amateur mountaineering expedition was the first since the end of the colonial period and was officially timed to the 40th anniversary of Victory Day of the Soviet Union over Nazi Germany. The current pyramid, installed, according to VCCI, by a group of Vietnamese travelers in 2008. It is a replacement for an earlier original but damaged marble pyramid.

Grace, Lorraine and Lourdes at Cafe du Soleil

At the nearby Café du Soleil, you can enjoy a warm drink and views of the surrounding mountains and clouds.

Fansipan Peak: Coordinates: 22°18′12″N 103°46′30″E

How to Get There: By car, the 332-km. distance between Hanoi and Sapa take only 4 hours. Sleeper buses, suitable for budget travelers, has a longer transfer time than a car, about 5 hours. The convenient and easy trains, a popular choice as this vehicle allows passengers to enjoy the countryside’s scenery along the way, have the longest transfer time of 8 hours.

Katunggan Mangrove Park (Mahinog, Camiguin)

Posted on 5 February, 2025 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Katunggan Mangrove Park

After breakfast at Paguia Cottages, we checked out and boarded our multicab for the 24.8-km. (40-min.) drive to Katunggan Mangrove Park.

L-R: the author, Grace, Jandy, Gelyn, Lorraine and Lourdes

It has a series of wooden boardwalks, suspended on stilts over the wetlands, that zigzag through the mangroves, leading to picnic huts (available to rent from pHP150 to 500 for a three-hour period) perched over the crystal-clear ocean. These huts also serve as great spots for jumping into the water.

Black mangroves (Avicennia germinans)

The myriad of roots of the black mangroves (Avicennia germinans) that reach up through the dense substrate of the high tidal pools. It differs from the red mangroves in that its roots, called pneumatophores, extend out horizontally, under the waterlogged sedimentary soil, and then vertically up towards the surface.

The wooden and bamboo boardwalk

When the tide is low, these roots can supply air to the underground root system, an adaptation that allows it to live in a habitat that the red mangrove can’t.

Pneumatophores

Popular among local families, the park has one entrance, and it is the only way to access its boardwalk and huts.

Picnic huts with access to the sea via wooden ladders

Typically busiest on weekends, the ideal time to visit the park for swimming is during high tide. Aside from swimming, other activities you can do here are stand up paddle boarding and kayaking.

The park’s restaurant

Katunggan Mangrove Park: Brgy. Benoni, Mahinog, Camiguin. Open daily, 6 AM to 6 PM. Admission: Php50/pax (Php30 for Mahinog residents).

Maydangeb White Beach and Blue Lagoon (Mahatao, Batanes)

Posted on 5 December, 2024 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Maydangeb White Beach

On our way to Mahatao town proper, we made a short stopover at the scenic and secluded, beautiful white sand Maydangeb White Beach and, later, passed by the small but equally beautiful Blue Lagoon, both located just beside the national road. Both are also among the few places in Batanes where one can go for a relaxed and safe swim.

The rocky promontory on the right

The quite cozy Maydangeb White Beach, a popular spot for swimming and picture taking, is flanked by rocky promontories and fringed by coconut trees, providing natural shade for those who wish to relax under them, plus it is often not crowded, providing a quiet and relaxing environment for visitors.

The rocky promontory on the left

The 150 to 200-m. long beach is accessible during both high and low (though swimming may require walking a bit far from the shore) tides. For beachgoers, it a budget-friendly option as the beach is free to enter.

The latter, just around the corner, concealed by rocky cliffs, is more commonly known as Huhmurun by the locals. During the Spanish era, it was called the Spanish Lagoon or Spaniard’s Lagoon because only Spaniards were allowed to swim in this natural pool.

L-R: the author, Grace and Jandy

Now open to both locals and tourists alike, it has crystal-clear waters that turn blue during the summer season. Though accessible from the highway, you have to walk a few meters down a inconspicuous, steep and rocky trail. Around the area are deep ravines and rock formations.

Blue Lagoon (Huhmurun)

Maydangeb White Beach: National Rd, Homoron, 5901 Mahatao, Batanes.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Mutchong Viewpoint (Uyugan, Batanes)

Posted on 5 December, 2024 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From the famous site of the Alapad rock formation, on your way to Brgy. Songsong in Uyugan, we made a stopover by the big sign saying “I ♡ UYUGAN,” a small boxlike community “bayanihan” (“Kamañidungan”) center and the Mutchong Viewpoint (also called Imnajbu Point) which is known for its breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes, including the rugged cliffs, rolling hills, vast ocean, and the picturesque rocky coastlines of Batanes.

Check out “Alapad Rock Formation“

Here we were greeted with a spectacular sight of beautiful hills and the distant sea, as well as a refreshing breeze. The viewpoint allowed us to get close to a cliff, so we can see where the land meets the waters of the West Philippine Sea below.

From this stunning vantage point, we admired the lovely scenery and natural beauty of the place, the waves crashing the unique geological formations of the area below and enjoyed the breeze and the sound of the howling wind.

Mutchong Viewpoint: Brgy. Kayvaluganan, 3903 Uyugan.

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kilometers (a 45-minute drive) from Basco and 11.9 kilometers (a 25-minute drive) from Ivana.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is also a copy editor for two publishing houses; travel writer; blogger; architectural historian; author; concert. movie and musical reviewer (for www.pep.ph); and a motivational speaker.

As a free-lance travel writer, he has, in the past, contributed articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day and Bluprint. He currently writes for Artplus Magazine and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.