Category Archives: PLACES OF INTEREST

Casa Real (Basco, Batanes)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Casa Real (now the Provincial Capitol Building)

After our tour of the Valugan Boulder Beach, we again boarded our van for the short 3-km. (10-min.) drive to the 2-storey Provincial Capitol Building.  Formerly the Casa Real, it was originally built from wood, during the term (1783-1785) of Don José Huelva y Megarejo, the province’s first governor.

Check out “Valugan Boulder Beach”

The building was renovated during the term (1794-1798) of governor Felimon Zenoreta who introduced masonry in Batanes. On December 15, 1856, the Casa Real burned down and it was reconstructed, in stone, in 1872 during the term (1872-1885) of Governor Jose Serra.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2013

On September 18, 1898, Governor Julian Fortea, the last Spanish governor of Batanes, was killed here when revolutionaries stormed the building.  After World War II, under the Philippine Rehabilitation Act of 1946, the capital was restored including the façade.  The stairs was rebuilt to provide a grand entrance.

The Capitol was expanded, during the administration (1989-1998) of Governor Telesforo F. Castillejos, with the construction of the three annex buildings from August 1989 to January 1993 and, on March 18, 1993, the capitol was inaugurated by President Fidel V. Ramos.

During the term (1998-2007) of Governor Vicente Gato, the buildings in the capital building complex were expanded and renovated to address the need for provincial government’s offices. It was inaugurated on March 24, 2007.

Statue of Aman Dangat

To the left of the building is the Statue of Aman Dagat. Also known as Kenan, this mangpus (tribal leader) of Malakdang led about 150 Isabtangs who rose in revolt one moonless night in September 1791 and crossed the treacherous sea to attack the Spanish mission house on Batan Island, killing seven non-Ivatan agents of the Spanish government who poached fruits and timber from Sabtang without payment.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2014

Aman Dagat was later hanged and the natives of Sabtang were exiled to the districts of San Felix and San Vicente in Ivana for the next 50 years (1791-1841).

Memorial to Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II

Behind this statue is the Memorial to the Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II which was unveiled on June 25, 1993, the 210th founding anniversary of Batanes,

Kilometer Zero Marker

In front of the Casa Real is the Kilometer Zero Marker and the Bantayog-Wika. The former is the reference point where all distances on Batan Island are measured from.  It is one of three such in the province, the other being in Sabtang Island  (along the National Road, near the port and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer) and the other in Itbayat  (within the Municipal Grandstand and park).

Check out “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

Bantayog-Wika

The Bantayog-Wika (Language Marker), a project of Sen. Loren Legarda, the local government and the Komisyon ng Wikang Filipino (KWF) recognizing the Ivatan language, was unveiled on April 8, 2019 (Basco Day).  This marker, the 14th installed in the country, seeks to identify areas where the country’s 130 languages originated.  Created by installation artist Luis “Junyee” Yee, Jr. in stainless steel, is inscribed (using laser technology), in baybayin letters, with several lines of Andres Bonifacio’s poem Pag-Ibig sa Tinubuang Bayan which was published in the first issue of Kalayaan, the Katipunan newsletter, in 1896.

Provincial Capitol Building: National Rd., 3900 Basco.  Mobile number: (0917) 326-3744.  E-mail: batanesinformation@gmail.com.

How to Get There: from Basco Airport, take the Diversion Road and turn left into National Road. The Provincial Capitol of Batanes is on the right side.

Valugan Boulder Beach (Basco, Batanes)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Valugan Boulder Beach

After our tour of the Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel, we gain boarded our van for the 8.3-km. (20-min.) drive to the 3-km. long, scenic Valugan Boulder Beach.

Check out “Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel”

Known to the locals as Chanpan, this beach is located along the eastern (valugan means “east” in Ivatan) coast of Batan Island is, as its name suggests, made up of medium to big size boulders, of different colors, that help create an incredible landscape framed by almost vertical cliffs and rolling hills. Smaller pebbles and shingles litter the southern end.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

The boulders here were said to have been coughed out around the northern half of Batan during a series of volcanic explosions, from 325 B.C. and 286 to 505 A.D., of Mt. Iraya, a nearby active stratovolcano, which also contributed to the formation of the impressive cliffs and rolling hills framing the beach.

Mt. Iraya seen at the end of the beach

These rough andesite rocks were then slowly polished, over time, by the tides and the mighty wind (which also help shaped the striking basalt cliffs) pushing the restless waves of the Pacific Ocean to lap the rough rocks.

The different size boulders along the beach

From the beach, only the loud whistling of the wind and constant rumbling of the Pacific Ocean can be heard as the waves come slapping the shore. While it is a beach, swimming is not allowed here due to the area’s rough terrain and the strong and unpredictable waves. Bringing home any stones from the beach is also prohibited.

The concrete viewing deck with benches

On the rightmost area of the beach are small, intentionally segregated Zen stones piled on top of each other.  Surprisingly, this surreal and breathtaking landscape makes for a relaxing setting especially for photographers who come here to catch the sunrise.

Stairs leading down to the beach

The waters off the coast are considered as a sacred fishing area of Ivatan fishermen (especially those from Brgy. San Joaquin) and the faypatawen, a traditional fishing season, is observed from March to the end of May. 

Grotto of the Blessed Virgin Mary

A tataya (a small, traditional Ivatan fishing boat)

Valugan Boulder Beach: Contra Costa Rd., 3900 Basco. 

How to Get There: Located 3 kms. from Basco town proper, this beach is just a short tricycle ride away. You can hire a tricycle to take you around North Batan, which includes Valugan Boulder Beach.

The Idjangs of Batanes

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Thousands of years before Spanish colonization, about a thousand pre-Hispanic Ivatans utilized the strategic high ground, living in villages on fortified cliffs and hilltops scattered across today’s Uyugan. These fortified settlements near rocky natural fortresses were called idjangs, derived from the Ivatan word idi or idian, which means “home” or “hometown.” Much of what is known now about idjangs, only initiated in the 1990s, comes from the oral tradition of Ivatans.  These were compiled by native Ivatan Dr. Florentino Hornedo of UST, leading historian on anything relating to Batanes.

These castle-like structures, on elevated rock formations, resemble the gusuku castles of Okinawa (Japan) and some stone-terraced formations in Taiwan.   Pre-Hispanic Ivatans lived in communities of small clans.  During tribal wars for possessions or territory, the clans would climb the idjangs when attacked and throw stones down upon their attackers.

The idjang of Basco

There are 17 of these remnants of stone fortresses on large stone outcrops.  They are located at Brgy. Savidug (Sabtang), Itbayat, Ivana, Mahatao, Brgy. Itbud and Chapidan in Uyugan, Basco and Ivuhos Island (Chuhangin) and Adekey Island off Sabtang.  Artifacts found here include stone tools and implements, earthenware beads, pottery, glass, Chinese ceramics, and human and animal bones. boat-shaped burial markers.

Geologists surmise that the idjang in Basco is molten magma from Mt.  Iraya that cooled off to form a plug for an extinct volcanic crater.  The idjang in Brgy. Itbud (Uyugan) is located at a promontory at the southern end of a beach.

Mt. Iraya

Ancient limestone columns, with holes drilled at one end, are found littered on the idjang slopes.  They may have served as king posts for dwellings or may have once held down cogon dwellings against strong, battering winds.  Some have been recycled as posts for stone houses on Batan Island.  A wall at the idjang’s base (where a creek forks), was made with stones piled on top of each other.  Instead of mortar, they are just held together by pressure from the adjacent stones.

The Chuhangin idjang, in Ivuhos Island (Sabtang), is located on a ledge overlooking the sea and the island’s famed burial grounds.  This idjang is the only one whose sides were built by the ancient Ivatans with stones placed on top of the other without the use of mortar. The Nahini Votox idjang of Itbayat Island has a spectacular view of Dinem and the island’s eastern coast.

The idjang of Brgy. Savidug in Sabtang

The picturesque Savidug idjang, considered to be the most beautiful and perfectly shaped among the idjangs, appears to have been terraced by human hands to assume a castle-like formation. It is distinctly different from all the others in the province because its sides were carved to make entry more difficult.

Here, archaeologists have recovered, from different levels of the site, various earthenware shards, remains of wild boar and deer teeth, glass beads, shell, coral and bone fragments and some 12th century Sung type greenware.

Savidug Idjang: Brgy. Savidug, 3904 Sabtang.

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Basco, Batanes)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Chapel)

After checking in and having a breakfast of fried dibang (flying fish) with pako salad, fried egg and rice at Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel, we were all picked, at 12 noon, by our guide Harvey Gutierrez for our North Batan Tour on board a Toyota van of A.A.B. Travel and Tours.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Bernardo’s Lantia Hotel”

Harbour Cafe

A short 2.3 km. (5-min.) drive brought us to Harbour Café where we had lunch before starting our tour.  The café has a good view of Basco Port.

After lunch, we again boarded our van for another short, 2.9-km. (7-min.) drive to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel.  Parking along the road, we climbed a short flight of steps to get to the chapel.

Grace and Jandy

Also known as Tukon (tukon means “mountain” in the Ivatan dialect) Chapel, this project of the late Henedina “Dina” R. Abad (former Batanes Congresswoman) and her husband Florencio “Butch” B. Abad (former Department of Education Secretary) was built to help Tukon’s residents, especially the older ones, avoid the long walk to Basco to attend church services.

Interior of the chapel

Adopting the design of a traditional Ivatan house (stacking and bonding boulders to make a wall), local craftsmen, masons and carpenters built the church and it is the only chapel embodying such design.

Continue Reading →

Balangay Boat Building Site (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

The author (left) at the Balangay Boat Building Site

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After our short ocular visit to Magsaysay Bridge, we next drove to the 10.6-acre Balangay Boat Building Area Tree Park, along the Agusan River, where the quincentennial balanghais, Raya Siyagu (with 10 gross tonnage), named after the ruler of Butuan-Caraga, and Raya Kolambu (with 8 gross tonnage), named after the former’s sibling, who was the ruler of Mazaua, are drydocked.  The former was in urgent need for repair while latter still looked seaworthy.

The story of the balanghai (also called balangay) replicas begins in 2009 when the Kaya ng Pinoy Inc., the team (headed by Arturo “Art” Valdez, former undersecretary of the DENR and DTI) that conquered Mount Everest in 2006, announced plans to reconstruct a balanghai boat, with the help of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya) and other tribal members, from Sibutu and Sitangkai Islands of Tawi-Tawi, who retained the lashed-lug boat-building techniques which were mostly lost in other islands.

Raya Kolambu (formerly the Lahi ng Maharlika)

Three balanghais, namely the Diwata ng Lahi, Masawa Hong Butuan, and the 75 ft. long, 15 ft. wide and 9 ft. high Sama Tawi-Tawi (launched 16, 2010)  were constructed, with old doongan (Heriteriera littoralis) and other Philippine hardwoods (all donated by former Sulu governor Abdusakur Mahail Tan), by the team of Arturo Valdez at Manila Bay, at a 1,000 sq. m. site at Liwasang Ullalim at the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex. The special wood for construction came from the established traditional source in southern Philippines, specifically Tawi-Tawi. The team have pinpointed Sama-Bajau master boat builders, whose predecessors actually built such boats, and used traditional tools during the construction.

A replica balanghai at sea

The boats will try to retrace the 1417 voyage of Sultan Paduka Batara (with 340 followers) of Sulu, from the Philippines to Fujian province in China (to pay tribute to the third Ming Dynasty Chinese emperor Zhu Di (or Yongle).  In September 1417, he arrived in Quanzhou but died there, from natural causes, and is buried in in Dezhou, Shandong, 320 kms. south of Beijing.  Kamulin, the sultan’s wife, and two sons (Andulu and Wenhalla) remained in China to tend to his tomb.  The emperor granted them lands and resources.  About 3,000 to 6,000 of their descendants still live there.

On September 1, 2009, all three journeyed, from Manila Bay, to the southern tip of Sulu,  tracing the routes of Filipino ancestors during the waves of Austronesian settlement through Maritime Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  On May 1, 2010, after an 8-month cruise, they arrived in Zamboanga City, after 70 multiport stopovers, covering 2,500 kms. The balanghais were navigated via the old method used by the ancient mariners – steering by the Sun, the stars, the wind, cloud formations, wave patterns and bird migrations.  Covering a distance of 3,908 kms. (2,108 nautical mi.), along the way, they stopped off at numerous Philippine cities to promote the project.

The second leg of the voyage, from 2010 to 2011, saw them navigate around South East Asia – Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia, Thailand and up to the territorial waters of Vietnam, before heading back to the Philippines.

The bow of the Raya Kolambu

In April 2017, two more balanghai replicas, namely the Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu were assembled, without any blueprints, in Maimbung, Sulu, by 7 members of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya), from Tawi-Tawi, led by master boat builder Nur Usman.  On May 10, 2017, both began sailing, from Sulu, in a mission to relive the 600 years of diplomatic connection between Sulu and ancient China.  They navigated without the use of modern instruments, and only through the skills and traditional methods of the Filipino Sama people.

Raya Siyagu (formerly the Sultan sin Sulu)

On April 28, 2018, the 33-man Philippine Balangay Expedition (headed by Valdez), on board the Sama Tawi-Tawi (the lead boat skippered by John Manginsay), Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu, sailed from the Manila Yacht Club and finally reached China, arriving in Xiamen at 3 PM, May 2.  The first two boats had small engines, allowing it to move at 30 knots, while the third was propelled by sail only, with a maximum speed of 10 knots.  They returned to Manila on May 22, after a 25-day journey.

Damage to the Raya Siyagu

In 2019, the Lahi ng Maharlika (now renamed Raya Kolambu), manned by 10 personnel, and Sultan sin Sulu (now renamed Raya Siyagu), run by 8 personnel, set sail, from San Vicente, Palawan to Butuan, in a 6-day journey crossing the Sulu Sea, making stops in Palawan (Linapacan, Cuyo), Antique (Anini-y), Negros Occidental (Sipalay), Negros Oriental (Dumaguete City), Camiguin and, finally, to Butuan Bay.  From Butuan, the balanghais entered the Mactan-Cebu waters on the morning of December 14, arriving in Lapu-Lapu City to commemorate the quincentennial (500th) anniversary of the Battle of Mactan on April 27, 2021.

A small-scale model of a balanghai

Today, the 15 m. long Diwata ng Lahi is on permanent public display at the back of the National Museum of Fine Arts while the Masawa Hong Butuan is on a special pavilion in Butuan City.

Balangay Boat Building Site: Butuan Global Forum, Inc., Luna Compound, 861 R. Calo St., Brgy. Bading, Butuan City, Agusan del Norte. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the site. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From Delta Discovery Park, it was a 9.3-km. (15-min.) drive to Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (or First Easter Mass Eco Park).  The highest elevation nearest to the seaside village of present-day Masao, it is located at a bend in the Masao River on a hill (called bood in Butuanon) overlooking the city.

Check out “Delta Discovery Park”

Magellan’s Cross

Grotto of the Virgin Mary

The park has a historical marker commemorating the contested first Catholic mass in Mindanao held on April 8, 1521 plus a memorial cross and a tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others.

Tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others

Nearby is a one-storey building housing an open-air function area plus oversized replicas of the Golden Tara (a 2-kg. (4.4-lb.), 21-karat gold statuette found, in 1917, at the banks of the Wawa River near Esperanza), and the Butuan Ivory Seal (an ivory stamp, seal stamp or a privy seal, dated 9th – 12th century, found in Brgy. Libertad).

Function Hall

Open-air function area

The park, situated in a non-protected 72-hectare agroforestry land, is also home to a small grotto of the Virgin Mary, walking trails and picnic spots. About 75% of the area is dominated by mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), yakal, Philippine teak (locally called hadlayati in Butuanon), Antipolo, narra and molave trees.

Replica of Golden Tara

Replica of Butuan Ivory Seal

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park: Brgy. Pinamanculan, Butuan City. 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Tel: (085) 300-0270. Open 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission: Php50/pax. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  A 30-min. tricycle ride from Masao Beach, to get to the park you have to cross a hanging bridge. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Banza Church Ruins (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Banza Church Ruins.  On the left is the mighty Agusan River, the third longest in the country

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From the Butuan Regional Museum, a 6.6km. (15-min.) drive brought us to the Banza Church Ruins, the oldest stone church ruins in Mindanao.  Getting there was very difficult, for first time visitors like us, as there are hardly any signs to point us in the right direction.

Check out “Butuan Regional Museum”

The balete tree enclosing the ruins of the church bell tower

This church, built by Augustinian Recollect friars beside the Agusan River (the third longest river in the country and the widest and most navigable in Mindanao) in 1625, was reputedly one of the most beautiful stone churches in the region.

The author and son Jandy beside the balete tree

However, in 1753, Moro pirates burned it down. Although the old church was rebuilt, it succumbed to decay and disuse when, in 1865, the town center was ordered transferred, by Surigao Province Gov. Manuel Boscasa, from Maug (Banza) to Baug (Magallanes).

Opening in the balete tree where you can see the interior wall of the bell tower

What is left of its former beauty is a bell tower engulfed inside a giant banyan (Ficus benjamina, locally called balete) tree.  From a small opening on the side of the tree, you can take a peek at the ruins and see its coralstone wall.

The steeple-like kiosk with pyramidal roof and balustrade

The ceiling of the kiosk

The steeple-like kiosk, with its pyramidal roof and balustrade, besides it houses a marble marker (its upper right hand corner chipped off) narrating the history of the place.  The place is a great spot to view the mighty 349 km. long Agusan River and to watch the sunset.

The slightly damaged marble historical plaque

Banza Church Ruins: Lilo, Brgy. Banza, 8600 Butuan City.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  Located 6.8 kms. (a 15-20 min. drive) from the city center, from the main highway, travel 2.5 kms. then take the track on the left. After 500 m., veer left again.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Balanghai Shrine Museum (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Balanghai Shrine Museum

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After arrival and lunch at Almont Inland Resort, Jandy and I, accompanied by Mr. Carl Ballesteros and Ms. Debra Rutz Tanginan, Sales and Marketing Manager and Media Marketing Officer, respectively, of the resort, boarded a Starex van to begin our tour of Butuan City. From the resort, it was a 4.9 km. (15-min.) drive to the Balanghai Shrine Museum.

Located between the city and the airport, this small but innovative, one-storey open-air museum, a field museum of the National Museum of the Philippines, celebrates the rich maritime heritage of the Philippines.  Upon arrival, we were toured around the quaint little museum by the very able and knowledgeable Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo.

Ms. Gloradel T. Tamayo

The museum displays, in a specially made glass case, is Butuan Boat No. 1, the more than 1,700-year old balanghai (or balangay), the oldest of nine boats discovered in September 6, 1976 by pothunters in search of Chinese ceramics at Brgy. Ambangan.  It originally measured around 10.2 m. (33 ft.) in length and has been dated to 777-988 CE. The timber used in its construction are identified as toog (Petersianthus quadrialatus),  narig (Vatica sp.), and lawaan (Shorea sp.).  Three of these water-logged timber boats have been excavated while the others are still in situ.

The 1,700 year old balangahai, the oldest of the nine discovered

Another view of the balanghai

On March 9, 1987, the balanghais were declared a National Cultural Treasure by virtue of Presidential Proclamation No. 86, series of 1986, signed by the late Pres. Corazon C. Aquino.   The establishment of the shrine was made possible by the donation of land by Felix A. Luna, a resident of the area, in 1979.

Photo of 1976 excavation

Photo of the balanghai found on site

These large sea-going wooden plank-built (Heretiara litorales, locally called dongon) and edge-pegged outrigger boats are 15 m. long and 3 m. wide across the beam.  Carbon-14 dating indicates it belongs to the 4th and 13th to 14th century AD. The oldest was dated to 320 AD by Tokyo’s Gakushuin Uniiversity.

The sugar palm fibers found on site

Sugar palm fibers, locally called cabo negro, hibyok or hidyop (Arenga piñata), were used to tie the boat planks together. Two others were dated to 990 and 1250 AD. These predate the relics of Viking ships in European museums and they represent the oldest fleet of boats excavated in one place.

Wooden coffins

Wooden coffins

Also on display are 3 m. long wooden coffins and deformed skulls (showing clear signs of cranial deformation, a cultural practice, at that time, either to signify group affiliation, social status or for aesthetic purpose) dating to the 14th and 15th centuries. The coffins were found 16 m. east of the boat, though proximate to the boat, the coffin burials have no chronological reference to the 12th and 13th century middle layer, being situated on the high ground beyond the eastern limits of the midden.

Deformed skulls

Infant skull

Displayed on the walls are actual photos of the 1976 to 1986 excavation as well as the rope used to tie the boat planks together.  At the back of the museum is the actual excavation site, a single trench, which is part of the Agusan River Delta System.  Another excavation site, not open to visitors, is located at the back of the Toyota Showroom. 

The excavation site today

  

Balangay Shrine Museum: 6th St., Sitio Ambangan, Brgy. Libertad, Butuan City, 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Mobile number (0919) 077-9854. E-mail: butuan@nationalmuseum.gov.ph.  Opened Tuesdays to Sundays (closed on Mondays), 9 AM to 5 PM.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  The museum is 5 kms. east of the city. From Gaisano Mall/Butuan City Integrated Transportation Terminal, take a tricycle (locally called a trisikad) to the museum.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint (Cappadocia, Turkey)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint

Prior to returning to our hotel, we made a short stopover at the Pigeon Valley (Güverçinlik Vadisi) Viewpoint. The valley, running between Uçhisar and neighboring Göreme (a walk of around two hours), has many pigeon-houses which were carved, over the course of the years, into the soft tuff rock on the sides of the fairy chimneys.

Pigeon houses carved on the side of the mountain

Inside were many niches where pigeons could roost. Nutrient-rich pigeon guano was widely used as a natural fertilizer into the 1970s. Pigeon droppings were also used to enhance the colors of the frescoes in the cave churches.

View of Uchisar Castle (upper left hand corner) and the villages below it

You can also see the otherworldly scenery of Uchisar Castle (Uçhisar Kalesi) perched on top of a rocky pinnacle.  One of the most prominent landmarks in Cappadocia, this ancient fortress, regarded as the tallest fairy chimney in the area.

The author (left) with Grace and Jandy

This 60 m. ( 200 ft.) high turret of golden volcanic rock was sculpted by the elements and, later, by humans, the earliest of whom are believed to be the Hittites from the second millennium BC., followed by Byzantine settlers in the 4th century AD.  It boasts stunning, unparalleled and panoramic view of Uchisar village and nearby hamlets.

The viewpoint is home to cafes selling tea, coffee and light snacks as well as a few shops selling overpriced souvenirs and local craft.  Across the street, you can take pictures or ride, for a fee, with camels.  Near the edge is a touristy love picture site for photo ops.

Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market

You can also feed the pigeons and sparrows with grain that can be bought at stores (1TL per cup). Also nearby is a hiking trail and the Cappadocia Natural Viagra Market, a store selling natural and organic Viagra, herbs, spices and different kinds of nuts (almonds, etc.) and dried apricots.

Camels for hire

Within the area is an evil eye tree dripping with Turkish nazar boncugu (which literally means “evil eye bead”) amulets which look like small shiny fruit or glinting glass eyes.  These lovely, inky blue talismans have deep cultural symbolism in Turkey and Greece.

Evil Eye Tree

Symbolizing the jealous and envious looks of others, these eye-shaped amulets are fixed to anything perceived to attract greed, envy or ill will, to ward off evil.  People who buy these (1TL each) can hang it up the tree in the direction opposite to that of the person.

Nazar boncugu

Pigeon Valley Viewpoint: Aşağı, Adnan Menderes Cd., 50240 Uçhisar/Nevşehir Merkez/Nevşehir, Türkiye.

Devrent Valley (Cappadocia, Turkey)

Posted on by — Leave a reply

Devrent Valley

After our exploration of the Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag, we returned to our van and made two stopovers, at viewpoints, before proceeding to our hotel.  The first was at the beautiful Devrent Valley in Cappadocia (locally known as Imaginary Valley).

Check out “Fairy Chimneys of Pasabag”

Nestled in the heart of Cappadocia, it is renowned for its surreal and otherworldly landscape (which has earned Devrent Valley the nickname “Lunar Landscape” or “Moonscape”) that sparks the imagination and transports you to a realm of wonder.  This enchanting valley, full of unique rock formations that are some of the best formed and most thickly clustered in Cappadocia, offers a unique experience like no other.

The Camel

Most of the striking and stunning pink-hued or rosy rock cones are topped by flattish, darker stones of harder rock that sheltered the cones from the rain until all the surrounding rock was eaten away, over thousands of years by wind and water, in a process known to geologists as differential erosion, creating intriguing pillar-like shapes.

The Elephant

The beauty of this captivating spot in Cappadocia is that has very easy driving access and isn’t as crowded as the open-air museums and iconic cave dwelling locations. Devrent Valley was never inhabited by humans, making it a unique geological wonder.

The Kissing Ducks

There are no rock-cut churches or castles to explore. It’s essential to keep in mind that the valley can get crowded, especially during peak tourist seasons. To avoid crowds, consider visiting early in the morning, late in the afternoon, or during lunchtime.

The Hand

As we ventured into this mesmerizing realm, we witnessed a natural masterpiece sculpted by centuries of wind and water erosion. At the entrance of the valley, one of the first sights that greet us was an enormous rock which looks like a camel. A lot more imagination is needed to spot the other whimsical animal-shaped (dolphin, seals, lions, bears, tigers, kissing birds, alligator, snake, etc.) rock formations. Other weird rock shapes resemble a Napoleon’s hat and a praying Virgin Mary. Devrent Valley left an indelible mark on my Cappadocia adventure, leaving me awe-inspired.

The Virgin Mary

Devrent Valley: Goreme El Sanatlari Carsisi No: 24 50180, Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey. Tel: +90 384 271 2166. Fax: +90 384 271 2337. Email: info@newgoreme.com.  The entrance to the valley is free of charge.

How to Get There: Devrent Valley is located 11.3  kms. (a 20-min. drive) from Goreme, aproximately 1 km. from Pasabag Valley, 6.6 kms. from Avanos, and 15.6 kms. from Uchisar. If you’re staying in Urgup, it’s just a short 5.7-kilometer drive to reach this enchanting destination.

The easiest way to get there is by bus or rental car directly from either Göreme or Ürgüp. Buses run regularly throughout the day, every hour departure and take around 10 – 15 minutes. The ‘Blue Route’ on the hop-on-hop-off bus also includes Devrent Valley. Devrent Valley lies on the direct (east) road between Avanos and Ürgüp. There’s no public transport along this route but if it’s not too hot and you don’t mind a roadside walk, it’s easy enough to get here on foot from Zelve. From the Zelve site entrance, go about 200m back down the access road to where the road forks and take the right-hand road marked for Ürgüp. After about 2km you’ll come to the village of Aktepe (Yeni Zelve). Bear right and follow the Ürgüp road uphill for another 2km.To cut down on walking time, the Ürgüp–Avanos dolmuş can drop you off at Aktepe. Devrent Valley is surrounded by marked hiking trails that connect it with other valleys in the region.