Category Archives: PLACES OF INTEREST

Church of St. Charles Borromeo (Mahatao, Batanes)

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Church of St. Charles Borromeo

From Maydangeb White Beach, we again boarded our van and continued on our way, traveling the remaining 2.4 kms. (a 5-min. drive), to Mahatao town proper, and making a stopover at the town’s Spanish-era Church of St. Charles Borromeo.

Check out “Maydangeb White Beach”

The church complex

The first church, made with light material and completed by Dominican friars in 1789, was destroyed by a strong typhoon in 1872 and the present structure was rebuilt, with stone and lime, in 1873 by Father Crescencio Polo, OP (who also remodeled the stone and mortar convent attached to the church).  On September 19, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, the flag of the Katipunan was raised in the campanille and the church was ransacked (the original gold Episcopal crosier of the image of San Carlos as well as the gold jewelry pieces of the Lady of the Rosary and the Santo Niño were stolen).

2008 National Historical Institute (NHI) historical plaque

In the 20th century, the cogon roof was replaced with galvanized iron and, sometime in 1990, the choir was removed.  On July 31, 2001, the church was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines. 

June 2005 historical plaque

It has an espadaña-style façade similar to Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer in Sabtang, with two round arches at roof levels for the bells (one of which is dated 1874).  The outer walls have uneven wall thicknesses due to the addition of massive step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.   

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

The church interior

The church’s Baroque style interiors showcases floral designs with sunburst ornaments painted in polychrome and gilt, lending a golden glow among the statuary. On the center of the main retablo is the statue of St. Charles Borromeo (the patron saint) surrounded by statues of St. Joseph, St. Dominic de Guzman and St. Rose of Lima. Two side altars house the statue of the Our Lady of the Rosary, on the right, and of the Holy Child on the left.

The main altar

The second floor of the church convent, on the right side of the façade, is not the typical volada (cantilevered gallery) for convents in the Philippines but an open extended deck. At the back of the convent are remains of an old circular well. 

The left side altar

Within the church’s courtyard is a stone structure that once housed the beatario.  Elsewhere in the courtyard and the elementary school are Spanish-era stone lampposts said to have been used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport. 

The right side altar

Church of St. Charles Borromeo: National Road, Brgy. Uvoy (Poblacion), Mahatao, 3901 Batanes. Mobile number: (0921) 766-2282. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo:  November 4.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Church of St. Charles Borromeo (Mahatao, Batanes)

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Church of St. Charles Borromeo

From Maydangeb White Beach, we traveled the remaining 2.4 kms. (a 5-min. drive), to Mahatao town proper, making a stopover at the town’s Spanish-era Church of St. Charles Borromeo.

Check out “Maydangeb White Beach”

The church complex

The first church, made with light material and completed by Dominican friars in 1789, was destroyed by a strong typhoon in 1872 and the present structure was rebuilt, with stone and lime, in 1873 by Father Crescencio Polo, OP (who also remodeled the stone and mortar convent attached to the church).

Plaque installed by National Historical Institute in 2008

On September 19, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, the flag of the Katipunan was raised in the campanille and the church was ransacked (the original gold Episcopal crosier of the image of San Carlos as well as the gold jewelry pieces of the Lady of the Rosary and the Santo Niño were stolen).

Plaque installed by National Commission for Culture and the Arts in June 2005

In the 20th century, the cogon roof was replaced with galvanized iron and, sometime in 1990, the choir was removed.  On July 31, 2001, the church was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines.

The church’s interior

It has an espadaña-style façade similar to Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer in Sabtang, with two round arches at roof levels for the bells (one of which is dated 1874).  The outer walls have uneven wall thicknesses due to the addition of massive step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

The main altar

The church’s Baroque style interiors showcases floral designs with sunburst ornaments painted in polychrome and gilt, lending a golden glow among the statuary. On the center of the main retablo is the statue of St. Charles Borromeo (the patron saint) surrounded by statues of St. Joseph, St. Dominic de Guzman and St. Rose of Lima.

Right side altar housing statue of Our Lady of the Rosary

Two side altars house the statue of the Our Lady of the Rosary, on the right, and of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on the left.

Left side altar housing statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

The second floor of the church convent, on the right side of the façade, is not the typical volada (cantilevered gallery) for convents in the Philippines but an open extended deck. At the back of the convent are remains of an old circular well.

The church’s convent

Within the church’s courtyard is a stone structure that once housed the beatario.  Elsewhere in the courtyard and the elementary school are Spanish-era stone lampposts said to have been used as guiding lights to guide fishermen and early mariners safely to the anchorage just beyond the town’s seaport.

One of two Spanish-era stone lampposts

Church of St. Charles Borromeo: National Road, Brgy. Uvoy (Poblacion), Mahatao, 3901 Batanes. Mobile number: (0921) 766-2282. Feast of St. Charles Borromeo:  November 4.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Maydangeb White Beach and Blue Lagoon (Mahatao, Batanes)

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Maydangeb White Beach

On our way to Mahatao town proper, we made a short stopover at the scenic and secluded, beautiful white sand Maydangeb White Beach and, later, passed by the small but equally beautiful Blue Lagoon, both located just beside the national road. Both are also among the few places in Batanes where one can go for a relaxed and safe swim.

The rocky promontory on the right

The quite cozy Maydangeb White Beach, a popular spot for swimming and picture taking, is flanked by rocky promontories and fringed by coconut trees, providing natural shade for those who wish to relax under them, plus it is often not crowded, providing a quiet and relaxing environment for visitors.

The rocky promontory on the left

The 150 to 200-m. long beach is accessible during both high and low (though swimming may require walking a bit far from the shore) tides. For beachgoers, it a budget-friendly option as the beach is free to enter.

The latter, just around the corner, concealed by rocky cliffs, is more commonly known as Huhmurun by the locals.  During the Spanish era, it was called the Spanish Lagoon or Spaniard’s Lagoon because only Spaniards were allowed to swim in this natural pool.

L-R: the author, Grace and Jandy

Now open to both locals and tourists alike, it has crystal-clear waters that turn blue during the summer season.  Though accessible from the highway, you have to walk a few meters down a inconspicuous, steep and rocky trail.  Around the area are deep ravines and rock formations.

Blue Lagoon (Huhmurun)

Maydangeb White Beach: National Rd, Homoron, 5901 Mahatao, Batanes.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Church of St. Joseph the Worker (Ivana, Batanes)

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Church of St. Joseph the Worker

This church, first built as a chapel in 1787, was rebuilt, with stone and lime, by Father Francisco de Paula Esteban, OP, in 1795 and the bell tower was built by Father Jose Fausto de Cuevas, OP, from 1814 to 1817.   In 1844, it was renovated and, in 1854, its nave was shortened with the rear portion closed (today, ruins of the abandoned portion can still be seen).  From 1866 to 1869, the façade was repaired by Father Fabian Martin, OP.

The church complex

On September 18, 1898, Filipino revolutionaries hoisted their flag after renouncing their loyalty to Spain. On July 16, 2000, a magnitude 7 earthquake partially destroyed the church and, in 2001, Father Gumersindo Hernandez, OP, had it repaired.

The unusual buttresses of the separate bell tower

In 2008, the church was declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. This church, with three-meter thick walls, is the only one in the province not built in the espadaña style. 

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI) in 2008

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

The church’s façade, with Baroque and Moorish architectural influences, has a semicircular arched main entrance with jambs formed in a series of receding molded planes, with alternating semicircular and Moorish arches.  Flanking the entrance are blind semicircular and Moorish arches, framing statues on corbels, and massive flat pilasters (which rise up to the pediment) topped by pyramidal finials.  The undulating pediment has a rectangular window topped by a Moorish arch and flanked by blind rose windows.

Its separate fortress-like, three-storey square bell tower, on the church’s right, is the only one of its kind in the province.  It is supported by unusual buttresses, at the base, and has segmental  arched openings, with balusters, and a crenellated top. 

The church interior

Due to its elevation, the church offers a panoramic view of the sea and the surrounding countryside.  The convent, part of the church complex, has unusual circular masonry work near the stairway.

The main altar
The choir loft

Church of St. Joseph the Worker: National Road, Barangay Tuhel (Poblacion), Ivana, 3902 Batanes. Mobile number: (0977) 120-3307. Feast of St. Joseph the Worker: May 1.

How to Get There: Ivana is located 13.85 kilometers (a 15-minute drive) south Basco. The church is located in front of the town’s port.

Church of St. Antoninus of Florence (Uyugan, Batanes)

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Church of St. Antonius of Florence

From Mutchong View Point, it was to be a long 20.1-km. (40-min.) drive to the Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. Five minutes into our trip, we made a short stopover at the Church of St. Antonius of Florence near the municipal hall at the town center of Uyugan.

Check out “Mutchong View Point” and “Honesty Coffee Shop”

View of church from the left. Note the pair of step buttresses on the side

The smallest of all the Spanish-era churches in Batanes, this simple church was built in 1871 by Dominican Fr. Fabian Martin (term: 1844 to 1878) and is one of the churches frequented by Fr. Jerry Orbos during his Pilgrimage Tour.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

This single nave church, also built in the espadaña style, has one segmental arch for a bell (now gone) on the upper portion of its Baroque and Gothic-style façade which is buttressed by massive flat pilasters from the foundation to the top.  

Gothic influences are seen from the gables over the narrow, semicircular arched main entrance, the flanking statue niches and the window (above which is the Dominican Order’s seal with its motto “Veritas”) over main entrance. On the sides are step buttresses that serve as stairways for servicing its then cogon-covered roof.   

The church’s single nave interior

Church of Antoninus of Florence: Brgy. Kayuganan, 3903 Uyugan.  Feast of Antoninus of Florence: May 10.

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kms. (a 45-min. drive) from Basco and 11.9 kms. (a 25-min. drive) from Ivana. 

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Mutchong Viewpoint (Uyugan, Batanes)

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Mutchong Viewpoint

From the famous site of the Alapad rock formation, on your way to Brgy. Songsong in Uyugan, we made a stopover by the big sign saying “I ♡ UYUGAN,” a small boxlike community “bayanihan” (“Kamañidungan”) center and the Mutchong Viewpoint (also called Imnajbu Point) which is known for its breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes, including the rugged cliffs, rolling hills, vast ocean, and the picturesque rocky coastlines of Batanes.

Check out “Alapad Rock Formation“

The author, Grace and Jandy

Here we were greeted with a spectacular sight of beautiful hills and the distant sea, as well as a refreshing breeze. The viewpoint allowed us to get close to a cliff, so we can see where the land meets the waters of the West Philippine Sea below. 

The big “I ♡ UYUGAN” sign

From this stunning vantage point, we admired the lovely scenery and natural beauty of the place, the waves crashing the unique geological formations of the area below and enjoyed the breeze and the sound of the howling wind.

Mutchong Viewpoint: Brgy. Kayvaluganan, 3903 Uyugan.

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kilometers (a 45-minute drive) from Basco and 11.9 kilometers (a 25-minute drive) from Ivana.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Alapad Rock Formation (Uyugan, Batanes)

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From the BAMSO Museum, it was just a short drive to the iconic Alapad Rock Formation, one of the most visited tourist attractions in Batan Island.

Alapad Rock Formation

This an inclined rock, facing the Pacific Ocean, was naturally carved by the strong water current and tectonic movements. Since it is strategically situated along the coastline of Imnajbu in Batan Island, it was blasted open, right down the middle, leaving some space in between to accommodate Batan’s circumferential road.

On one side is a hill that serves as a view deck offering a picturesque view of the Pacific Ocean and the seascape, in general, for visitors, while on the other side is a rocky beach.

L-R: Grace, the author, Lorraine, Jun, Jandy, Lourdes and Gelyn

The rock formation deck also offers a view of the aforementioned BAMSO Museum now housed in the former LORAN (Long Range Aid to Navigation Station) constructed by the Americans in the 1960s, for Coast Guard purposes and, eventually, abandoned in the 1970s.

Check out “BAMSO Museum”

A famous scene in 1991 movie Hihintayin Kita sa Langit, wherein Richard Gomez was carrying Dawn Zulueta, was filmed here. The motorcycle scene in the 2015 film You’re My Boss, starring Toni Gonzaga (as Georgina) and Coco Martin (as Pong), was also shot here.

The “Blow Ur Horn” sign

Adding to its charm are the iconic “Blow Your Horn” signs along Mahatao’s cliff hugging roads, evidence of Ivatan ingenuity and creativity. Carved out from cliffs or boulders to prevent accidents at the blind spots, these unique, yellow-painted road signs, also associated with Batanes, were built to withstand the torrential winds of the strongest typhoons.

The uthor (left) with Grace and Jandy

Alapad Rock Formation: Brgy. Itbud, 3903 Uyugan,

How to Get There: Uyugan is located 22.2 kilometers (a 45-minute drive) from Basco and 11.9 kilometers (a 25-minute drive) from Ivana.Locals usually ride their motorcycles, bicycles, tricycles, or walk to the Alapad Rock Formation. You can also join a guided tour that includes this attraction.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Racuh a Payaman (Mahatao, Batanes)

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Racuh a Payaman

From the Chawa View Deck, it was a 6-km. (15-min.) drive, passing by the Mahatao Boat Shelter Port, to Racuh-a-Payaman (meaning “big pasture”), one of the most visited tourist attractions in the island.  By the time we arrived, the rain had already stopped and the sun was shining brightly in the sky.

Check out “Chawa View Deck” and “Mahatao Boat Shelter Port”

L-R: Grace, the author, Jandy, Lorraine, Junior, Lourdes and Gelyn

Located at Mahatao’s outskirts, it is also called Vayang (“rolling hills”) or Japarao but is more popularly called the “Marlboro Country of Batanes,” a referral derived from a 1968 Marlboro cigarette TV advertisement, mainly because of the rolling hills of limitless, velvety grazing grassland where cattle, carabao and horses are aplenty.

Grazing cattle

This huge track of communal pastureland, preserved by the villagers, have fields often typically hedged with tall rows of reeds, trees, cogon grass or piled stones.  These hedgerows serve as some sort of windbreaker, protecting the crops against the harsh winds and typhoons.  They also help prevent soil erosion.

The site is protected by the NIPAS Act (a law securing the proper use of protected lands in the country) and the Batanes Protection Act of 2000 (a law stipulating a Batanes as a cultural heritage and ecotourism zone). Therefore, the protection of the environment is strictly enforced in the area.

A cone-shaped islet

A large part of this area is occupied by the Cattle Raisers Association of Communal Pastureland No. 1, the oldest and most intact group in Batanes, with management ensuring that equitable access and distribution of the benefits derived from the grazing land.

Jandy doing a jump shot

From the top of the hills, the view here is nothing short of spectacular.  We had a clear, picture-perfect view of the rugged coastline below, with cliffs plummeting down to Diura Beach and a cone-shaped islet, the Pacific Ocean on the horizon, Tayid Lighthouse, crested on an opposite hill, to the north, Mt. Iraya on the far north, and the Dingo island close by.

Tayid Lighthouse amidst hedgerows 

It is also a nice venue for landscape photography and kite flying. For dining, there’s Maconines Canteen which serves local dishes such as uvud, mahi-mahi, vunes, lunis and Batanes lobsters.

Marconines Canteen

Racuh a Payaman was also featured in the 2015 film You’re My Boss, starring Toni Gonzaga (as Georgina) and Coco Martin (as Pong). Here, Georgina and Pong were taking lots of selfies as the day was coming to a close.

The author befriending a cow

Racuh-a-Payaman: Brgy. Uvoy, 3901 Mahatao.

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco. Located just between Mahatao and Imnajbu in the east-central Batan Island, this pastureland can be reached by tricycle from Basco Airport or Basco Town Proper. You can also hire a tricycle for a tour of South Batan, which includes a stop at Marlboro Country.

Chawa View Deck (Mahatao, Batanes)

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Chawa View Deck

On our third day in Batanes, after breakfast at the hotel, it began to rain when we boarded our van for the 1.8-km. (a 5-min.) drive, along winding roads, to the first stop of our Southern Batan Island Tour – the breathtaking Chawa View Deck (also called Mahatao View Deck or Chanarian View Deck).  The word chawa came from the Ivatan word meaning “cliff.”

Grotto of the Virgin Mary

Upon arrival, we first encountered a grotto of the Blessed Virgin Mary then some concrete benches where one can sit (if it weren’t wet) and have a panoramic view of the West Philippine Sea beyond, the pounding waves below, the rolling green hills and the rugged western cliffs that hug the road to the southern towns.

View from the deck

The cliff also has a steep concrete stairway, with 100 or so steps, that lead down to the sea where you can dip your feet in the cool waters, take additional photos, go fishing or just watch the waves hitting the rocks. During low tide, there is a mini pool.

L-R: Grace, the author and Jandy

We didn’t go down the stairway as climbing back up would be quite a workout and the steps were very slippery and dangerous to step on after the rain. Instead, we simply relaxed, took photos and enjoyed the breeze and the view.

Concrete steps leading down to the shore

Some distance from the view deck, I espied a pair of extraordinary mountain goats defying gravity as they clung precariously off the steep mountain side.

Two mountain goats clinging precariously to the mountain sides.

Chawa View Deck: Basco National Rd., Brgy. Hanib, 3901 Mahatao. 

How to Get There: Mahatao is located 13.4 kms. (a 30-min. drive) south of Basco.  The viewing deck is located at the top of the Chawa winding road within Mahatao.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer (Sabtang, Batanes)

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Church of St. Vincent Ferrer

After our tour of Chavayan Village, we again boarded our van for 8.5-km. (20-min.) drive back to the población to visit the Spanish-era Church of St. Vincent Ferrer.  This church started as a small chapel in 1785.  In 1844, it was rebuilt in lime and stone by Dominican Fr. Antonio Vicente, OP.

Check out “Chavayan Village”

The church’s Baroque façade

In October 1956, after damage by a typhoon, Fr. Gumersindo Hernandez, OP, repaired the campanille and, from 1983 to 1984, Fr. Rafael Carpintero, OP, repaired the interior and replaced the cogon roofing with galvanized iron.

Historical plaque

In 2008, the church, convent and beaterio complex were declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.

The massive buttresses at the sides

Like the Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Charles Borromeo in Mahatao, this church has an espadaña-style facade, with two round arches for its two bells on the upper portion of the Baroque façade.

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Charles Borromeo”

The church convent

Four massive and broad pilasters, topped by heavy set, urn-like finials, flank the semicircular arched main entrance, at the first level, and the semicircular arched window at the second level.

The church’s interior

The thick walls enclosing the nave, made with stone and lime, are supported by buttresses while, at the back, four round pillars support the choir loft (below which is the baptistery).  A pedestal, with a stone statue of St. Vincent Ferrer, stands a short distance to the right of the church.

The main altar

Inside the church is the original Baroque retablo, with niches for statues of saints, above the high altar.  Made with polychrome and gilded woodwork, it was restored by Fr. Carpintero during the 1983 to 1984 renovation.

Stone statue, of St. Vincent Ferrer, on a pedestal

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer: Brgy. Malakdang (Poblacion) Sabtang, 3904 Batanes.  Mobile number: (0929) 110-2401. Feast of St. Vincent Ferrer: April 27.

How to Get There: There are scheduled 30 to 45-minute early morning boat trips by falowa (round-bottomed boat) from Ivana’s Radiwan Port to Sabtang. The church is located close to the port.

Sabtang Tourist Information Center: Brgy. Sinakan, 3904 Sabtang.  Mobile number: (0929) 226-8055.  E-mail: tourismsabtang@gmail.com.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.