Rompeolas Bay Walk (Sorsogon City, Sorsogon)

Rompeolas Bay Walk.  In the foreground is the standee while in the background is the partially cloud-shrouded Mt. Bulusan

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After our tour of the Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts, we were driven 4 kms. to Rompeolas Bay Walk.  Also known as the Sorsogon City Bay Walk, it is located along Sorsogon Bay.

Check out “Sorsogon Cultural Center for the Arts

Splendido de Rompeolas

Our creamy halo-halo

Here, we had a merienda of creamy halo-halo at Splendido de Rompeolas Restobar & Grill, one of a number of restaurants at the Rompeolas Food Court that serve breakfast, lunch, dinner and merenda meals. It is being developed by the provincial government as a tourist zone.

Rompeolas Food Court

Sports Bar 83, Boardroom Snacks & Games Cafe

Its name was derived from the Spanish word romper meaning “where the waves cavort.” At Rompeolas, Pinaculan Island, the “Rompeolas Sorsogon City” standee as well as picturesque views of Sorsogon Bay and, on a clear day, Mount Bulusan can be seen from afar.

Sorsogon Pier

It also has a fairyland view of Sts. Peter and Paul Cathedral, with its colorful, dome and pointed steeples.

View of the dome and spires of the Sts. Peter & Paul Cathedral

The site of the old Sorsogon Pier (which juts into Sorsogon Bay), this pleasant, arrowhead-shaped promenade, with fresh sea air (especially in the morning), gets really crowded with students out on date, kids out on a day of fun (there is a playground), and those who just can’t get enough of the glorious and spectacular, reddish-orange  Sorsogon sunset over Pinaculan Island. It is also crowded during sunrise, with people exercising or jogging to start their day.

View of the sunset over Pinaculan Island from the causeway

The adjacent quiet, 3-hectare, tadpole-shaped Pinaculan Island, site of a lighthouse, was once only connected to the mainland, at Brgy. Bitan-o-Dalipay, during low tide.

Pinaculan Island

Today, it is now connected to the mainland via a causeway (built around 2012) and an aesthetically pleasing hanging bridge crossing over to Brgy. Bitan-o-Dalipay. 

The hanging bridge

On October 31, 2019, during Sorsogon’s Kasanggayahan Festival, a total of 7,127 Sorsogon residents, including Gov. Francis ‘Chiz’ Escudero and his wife actress Heart Evangelista, performed the Pantomina sa Tinampo (the Bicolano courtship dance mimicking the movement of doves in  courtship) from Fatima Church to Bulwagan and Rompeolas Baywalk. In doing so, Sorsogon now holds a Guinness World Record for the largest Philippine folk dance. Swapnil Dangarikar of India, official adjudicator from Guinness World Records, witnessed the historic performance.

Pinaculan Lighthouse

The 4-lane, 5.52-km. long Sorsogon City Coastal Rd., opened last August 30, 2020, connects Rompeolas Bay Walk with Brgy. Balogo.  It bypasses Sorsogon City’s main thoroughfare along Maharlika Highway. Providing a pleasant view of Sorsogon’s coastline, it also doubles as a protection against storm surges.

 

Rompeolas Bay Walk: Brgy. Talisay, Sorsogon City 4700, Sorsogon. Coordinates 12.96481,124.0041.

Splendido de Rompeolas Restobar & Grill: Pier Site, Rompeolas, Brgy. Talisay, Sorsogon City 4700, Sorsogon. Mobile number: (0912) 105-9950.

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Museo Sorsogon (Sorsogon City, Sorsogon)

Museo Sorsogon

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

After our Whale Shark Interaction in Donsol, we again boarded our coaster for the 66.7-km. (1.5-hr.) drive to Sorsogon City, making a stopover at the relatively new, two-storey, Neo-Classical-style Museo Sorsogon within the Provincial Capitol Complex.

Check out “Whale Shark Interaction

The now glass-paneled cell doors

A brainchild of Gov. Francis Joseph “Chiz” G. Escudero, this two-storey museum is housed at the Old Sorsogon Provincial Jail. Built in 1916, the jail also hosted the Court of First Instance.

Historical Marker

When a new penitentiary was built and the inmates were transferred in 2019, Escudero saw the potential of the vacated building and decided to showcase the province’s history, culture and heritage. The property was restored by the Department of Public Works and Highways.

Restoration Marker

The museum displays significant historical and cultural artifacts and memorabilia of the province, highlighting its early settlers and settlement, participation in the 1896 Philippine Revolution, status during the American Occupation and locally-made products. Relevant artifacts are still continuously collected.

Garita (guardhouse)

The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) managed the curatorial development of this new museum and also facilitated the loans of important artifacts from the National Museum of the Philippines.

Museum foyer

The NHCP formally turned over the museum to the Sorsogon Provincial Government on March 12, 2021, during its inauguration and blessing. NHCP Chairman Rene R. Escalante presented the Certificate of Turn-over to Gov. Francis Joseph “Chiz” G. Escudero, and the latter spearheaded the unveiling ceremonies.The museum was blessed by Sorsogon Bishop Jose Alan V. Dialogo.

Iron anchor from Donsol astillero

The inauguration was also attended by Deputy Speaker Evelina G. Escudero, National Museum of the Philippines Director-General Jeremy R. Barns, Sorsogon Vice Governor Manuel L. Fortes, Jr., Sorsogon City Mayor Ma. Ester E. Hamor, and other local government officials. Museo Sorsogon opened to the public on March 15, 2021

Decreto Real

Map of Sorsogon

The museum houses ten galleries housed in what was once a prison cell, with the cell doors now glass paneled.  The total area per floor is about 830 sq. m. Galleries 1 to 5 are located on the first floor of the building while Galleries 6 to 10 are located on the second floor.

Replica of the San Diego cannon (National Museum of the Philippines)

At the museum foyer, we were welcomed by a sizable, wall-hung political map showing Sorsogon’s towns and two legislative districts.

Hallway with sequential portraits of past provincial governors

Also on display in this area are the glass-framed copy of the Discreto Real (the document that established the province in 1894), a replica of a cannon recovered from the San Diego wreck site and a huge iron ship anchor recovered from the Donsol astillero.

The author at Gallery 9

Lining the ground floor hallway leading to the galleries are sequential portraits of former provincial governors of Sorsogon.

Gallery 1: Ang Pinagmulan ng Pangalan ng Sorsogon

Gallery 1, called “Ang Lalawigan ng Sorsogon: Ang mga Bayan at Lungsod Nito” (The Province of Sorsogon: Its Municipalities and City), contains 5 displays.:

  • Ang Pinagmula ng Pangalan ng Sorsogon (The Origin of the Name of Sorsogon)
  • Heograpiya ng Sorsogon (The Geography of Sorsogon)
  • Ang Klima at mga Importanteng Producto ng Sorsogon (Climate and Important Sorsogon Products)
  • Populasyon ng Sorsogon (The Population of Sorsogon)
  • Mga Wika ng Sorsogon (Sorsogon Languages) – the dialects the people speak

Gallery 1: Heograpiya ng Sorsogon

Gallery 2: Ang mga Kuweba ng Bato (The Caves of Bato)

Gallery 2, called “Panahong Prehistoriko at Pagsisimula ng mga Pamayanan” (The Prehistoric Period and the Beginning of Communities), contains 4 displays:

  • Ang mga Kuweba ng Bato (The Caves of Bato)
  • Ang Libingan sa Pilar (The Cemetery of Pilar)
  • Ang Pagsisimula ng mga Sinaunang Pamayanan (The Beginning of Early Settlements)
  • Mga Alamat ng Lawa ng Bulusan (Legends of Lake Bulusan)

Gallery 3: Ang Misa sa Gibal-ong (Gibalon) Magallanes

Gallery 3: Pag-aalsa sa Sorsogon (Uprising in Sorsogon)

Gallery 3, called “Sorsogon noong Panahon ng mga Espanyol” (Sorsogon during the Spanish Period), contains 10 displays that narrates how the Spanish regime shaped Sorsgon:

  • Ang Misa sa Gibal-ong (Gibalon) Magallanes (The Mass of Gibalon, Magallanes)
  • Ang Misyon ng mga Pransiskano sa Sorsogon (The Franciscan Mission in Sorsogon)
  • Erecciones de Pueblos y Parroquias: Pagtatatag ng mga Bayan noong ika-17 Daantaon (The Establishment of Towns and Parishes During the 17th Century)
  • Pag-aalsa sa Sorsogon (Uprising in Sorsogon)
  • Astilleros: Ang Halaga ng Sorsogon sa Kalakhang Galyon (The Importance of Sorsogon in the Galleon Trade)
  • Ang mga Pagsalakay ng mga Pirata sa Sorsogon (The Pirate Attacks in Sorsogon)
  • Baluartes, Estacadas y Castillos: Ang mga Tanggulan at Moog sa Sorsogon (Bastions, Stockades and Castles: The Forts and Towers in Sorsogon)
  • Ang mga Bahay-na-Bato ng Sorsogon (The Stone Houses of Sorsogon)
  • Mga Tradisyong Relihiyoso sa ibat-ibang Bayan ng Sorsogon (Religious Traditions in the Different Towns of Sorsogon)
  • Ang Espesyal na Debosyon kay Ina, Nuestra Señora de Peñafrancia sa Sorsogon (The Special Devotion to our Mother, Our Lady of Peñafrancia of Sorsogon).

Ang Espesyal na Debosyon kay Ina, Nuestra Señora de Peñafrancia10 sa Sorsogon

Astilleros Ang Halaga ng Sorsogon sa Kalakhang Galyon

Gallery 4, called “Rebolusyon sa Sorsogon” (Sorsogon Revolution), contains 3 displays that narrates the Philippine Revolution that unfolded at the province at the tail end of their 333 year rule:

  • Kronolohiya ng mga Kaganapan (Chronology of Events)
  • Si Obispo Jorge Barlin sa Sorsogon (Bishop Jorge Barlin of Sorsogon)
  • Ang mga “Pulahanes” sa Sorsogon (The “Pulahanes” of Sorsogon).

Gallery 4: Si Obispo Jorge Barlin sa Sorsogon

Gallery 4: Ang mga “Pulahanes” sa Sorsogon

Gallery 5, called “Sorsogon sa Pananakop ng mga Amerikano” (Sorsogon During the American Occupation), contains 8 displays that narrates the early armed resistance against the Americans and the progress brought about by these eventual colonizers up to the time of the Philippine Commonwealth Government:

  • Pagdating ng mga Amerikano (The Arrival of the Americans)
  • Ang mga “Amerikanistas” at mga Anti-Amerikano; Ang Pagkilos ni Lt. Col. Emeterio Funes (The “Amerikanistas” and the Anti-Americans: The Action of Lt. Col. Emeterio Funes)
  • Pagtatanggol ng Donsol Laban sa mga Amerikano (Donsol’s Defense Against the Americans)
  • Mga Gurong Amerikano (Thomasites) at ang Pampublikong Edukasyon sa Sorsogon (The American Teachers (Thomasites) and Public Education in Sorsogon)
  • Larawan ng Bagong Kaayusan (A Portrait of the New Order)
  • Pampublikong Istraktura (Public Structures)
  • Pagsupil sa Kolera (Cholera Control)
  • Sa Ilalim ng Pamahalaang Komonwelt (Under the Commonwealth Government)

Gallery 5: Pagsupil sa Kolera

Gallery 5: Pagdating ng mga Amerikano

Gallery 6, called “Sorsogon sa Pananakop ng mga Hapon” (Sorsogon During the Japanese Occupation), contains 7 displays:  Here, we learn about Bicolano heroes such as Wenceslao Vinzons (of Camarines Norte) and Salvador Escudero who both commanded guerilla units.

  • Ang Ikalawang Digmaang Pandaigdig at ang Pananakop ng Sorsogon (The Second World War and the Conquest of Sorsogon)
  • Mga Gerilla ng Sorsogon: Ang Gerilla Yunit ni Lapus (Sorsogon Guerillas: The Guerilla Unit of Lapus)
  • Mga Gerilla ng Sorsogon: Ang Gerilla Yunit ni Escudero (Sorsogon Guerillas: The Guerilla Unit of Escudero)
  • Ang mga War Tunnel ng Bulan (The War Tunnels of Bulan)
  • Ang Masaker ng mga Tsino ng Bulan (The Massacre of the Chinese of Bulan)
  • Ang Pagtatapos ng Digmaan (The End of the War)
  • Mga Bayaning Gerilya ng Sorsogon (Guerilla Heroes of Sorsogon)

Ang Ikalawang Digmaang Pandaigdig at ang Pananakop ng Sorsogon

Gallery 6: Ang Masaker ng mga Tsino ng Bulan

Here, a bartolina (solitary confinement cell) displays some restored weapons used during the guerilla period

Gallery 6: Restored weapons at the bartolina (solitary confinement cell)

Gallery 6: Battle Dressing

Gallery 7, called “Pagbangon at Pag-unlad” (Rise and Development), contains 3 displays that narrates Sorsogon’s road to recovery from damages during the war, the disasters that Sorsogon had to endure (catstrophic storms, eruptions of Mount Bulusan) and famous Sorsoganons who displayed their heroic mettle during the Martial Law years including Lilosa Hilao, the 23-year old student journalist who was arrested, raped and viciously tortured then killed (the first detainee to be killed during that time):

  • Mga Anak ng Sorsogon sa Panahon ng Batas Militar hanggang sa People Power (Sorsogueños During Martial Law Until People Power)
  • Mga Mapaminsalang Bagyo (Destructive Typhoons)
  • Mga Aktibidad bg Bulkang Bulusan (The Activities of Mount Bulusan)

Gallery 7: Mga Anak ng Sorsogon sa Panahon ng Batas Militar hanggang sa People Power

Gallery 7: Mga Aktibidad bg Bulkang Bulusan

Gallery 8, called “Mga Industriya ng Sorsogon” (Sorsogon Industries), showcases Sorsogon’s main industries.  On display are decorative and utilitarian items made  from niyog (mature coconut),  pili (pili nut) and abaka (abaca) plus some tools produced by the blacksmiths (panday),of Sorsogon.

Gallery 8: Pagpapanday (Blacksmithing)

Gallery 8: Abaka (Abaca)

The gallery also displays the mural of Lady Justice (Justitia),  painted by a certain V. L. Jesalva, and restored by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP).

Gallery 8: Lady Justice (Justitia) by V.L. Jesalva

Gallery 8: Pili (Pili Nut)

Gallery 9, called “Pantomina sa Tinampo (Sorsogon’s traditional love and courtship dance), exhibits 2 events:

  • Kasanggayahan Festival
  • Pantomina sa Tinampo (Traditional Courtship Folk Dance, Guinness World Record Title Holder 2019)

Gallery 9: Kasanggayahan Festival

Gallery 9: Pantomina sa Tinampo

During the province’s 125th anniversary celebration on October 31, 2019, Sorsogon bagged the Guinness World Record for the “Largest Filipino Folk Dance” when 7,127 participants from all over the province performed the Pantomina along the Rompeoplas Baywalk.

Gallery 9: Guinness World Record Certificate

Gallery 10, called “Mga Pook Pasyalan sa Sorsogon,” contains 4 displays that feature replicas and stories behind Sorsogon’s natural and historical tourist gems:

  • Isla, Dagat, Dalampasigan (Island, Sea, and Beach)
  • Anyaya ng Inang Kalikasan (Invitation of Mother Nature)
  • Paglalakbay na Makasaysayan (Historical Journey)
  • Mayamang Kultura at Pananampalataya (Rich Culture and Faith)

Gallery 10: Gubat

Gallery 10

The yard, at the back of the museum, was converted into an 875-sq.m. open-air amphitheater.  Now a venue for events and stage performances, it has a six-tier seating area.

Open-air Amphitheater.  At both ends are Kape-Terya and Kape-Tolyo

At the back of the museum, within the corners of the amphitheater, are the Kape-Terya (Cafeteria) and the Kape-Tolyo (coffee shop). The former offers local snacks while the latter offers both hot and cold coffee to museum visitors.

The Souvenir Shop, located at the entrance of the museum, displays “made in Sorsogon” products of micro, small and medium enterprises such as snacks, beauty products made from pili, handicrafts and accessories, all sold with no price mark-up.

A staircase wall also features the original artworks of the provincial jail inmates including a Sigue-Sigue Sputnik gang’s rendition of the portrait of Cuban revolutionary Ernesto “Che” Guevara.

Museo Sorsogon: Brgy. 1, Burabod, Provincial Capitol Compound, Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0912)-236-6422.  E-mail: museo@sorsogon.gov.ph. Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MuseoSorsogon. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8:30 AM -12 noon and 1:00-5:30 PM.

How to Get There: Sorsogon City is located 517.5 kms. (a 12–hr. drive) from Manila via the Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26. 

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins (Pilar Sorsogon)

Part of Sorsogon Countryside Tour

A few minutes hike from Casa Almei Beach Resort are the Ruins of the Astillero de Panlatuan.  Astilleros are Spanish-era shipyards used for construction and repair of the galleons that plied the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade. The towns of Donsol and Pilar, both sheltered from typhoons and having extensive coasts dotted by bays, coves and major rivers that are navigable, were the location of several shipyards. An extensive mangrove surrounds them, making it a safe haven for boats and people.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins

The astillero at Donsol (probably used as a construction, repair and smelting site) was established at the mouth of a river while the astillero at Pilar was established on a cove. When the important astillero on Bagatao Island in Magallanes was destroyed by Moro pirates, it was transferred to Panlatuan Bay after the Galleon Trade ended in 1650.

A portion of the fence built with cobble stones, with imported broken glass on the top for added protection

The revolution in Sorsogon was ignited  by the abuse and exploitation of the Panlatuan shipyard workers by their Spanish masters.  On August 5, 1898, desperate workers of the astillero rose in arms and raided the homes of four Spaniards residing in the barrio, slaying them with machetes.

Another stone structure on the site

The two astilleros of Pilar are separated by bodies of waters. The Binanuahan Astillero (probably the administrative site), at the Pilar Peninsula, is more inland while the Panlatuan Astillero (probably the construction and smelting site), located on a cove, is nearer the sea.  The deep waters, two rivers, an extensive mangrove, a vast flatland and a hill of the latter made it a favorable choice for an astillero.

The Panlatuan astillero has the best preserved features of the three.  Remains of large (approximately 30-40 cm. in diameter), equidistantly buried wooden posts, seen during low tide (only 30 cms. Can be seen), are associated with the presence of a pier and are arranged either parallel or perpendicular to each other.

Travel agents listen as our guide narrates the history of the site

The remains of a big gate, ruins of watchtowers and a warehouse were also documented during archaeological surveys and excavations done in the 1990s. Two old deep wells on the site, built with adobe tuff, are still being used by the owners.

One of several deep water wells on the site

The stone structures had thick walls made with riverine stones, adobe tuff and lime mortar; a roof with earthenware tiles and big windows and door frames. The watchtower used riverine cobble stones while the fence enclosing the astillero used cobble stones with imported broken glass on the top for added protection.

A ceramic shard recovered from the site

Corroded iron nails, chain rings, bronze sheathing nails, iron tools, a porthole window, Chinese, European and local ceramic shards (I was given one recovered on the site), brick tiles and Spanish coins were recovered on this site. A large slag concentration, pointing to smelting activities in the past, was also found on the northeastern side.

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

Since the Panlatuan astillero was part of a series of events that resulted in the rapid spread of revolutionary activities in Sorsogon it, in my opinion, deserves to be declared a National Historical Site by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines, with a historical plaque installed.  The site should also be rehabilitated and restored.

Astillero de Panlatuan Ruins: Panlatunan, 4714 Pilar, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Pilar is located 495.2 kms. (a 12-hr. drive  via Pan Philippine Highway/AH26) from Manila and 57.7 kms. (a 1-hr. drive via Central Nautical Highway and Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26) from Sorsogon City.

Sorsogon Provincial Tourism Culture and Arts Office: Ground Floor, Capitol Building, 4700 Sorsogon City. Mobile number: (0968) 624-6279. E-mail: tourism@sorsogon.gov.ph.  Facebook: www.facebook.com/sorsogonprovincialtourismoffice.

Pilar Municipal Tourism Office: E-mail: pilarsor.tourism@gmail.com.  Mobile number: (0948) 955-7727.

Ur Place Travel & Tours: OLV Pangpang, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile number (Viber): (0927) 950-3927 (Ms. Annie Gueb).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/urplacetravel.

The Iconic Pansit of Cabagan (Isabela)

The iconic Pancit Cabagan

Prior to our return to the City of Ilagan from Cabagan, we took time out to observe the making of the festive, hearty and mouth watering Pancit Cabagan (a must try if you are in Cabagan) at Mariloi’s Panciteria and Restaurant, one the well known pansiterias in the town.  Here, we were welcomed by owner Ms. Marivic Tagao who would demonstrate how this unique, saucy pansit dish variety is prepared.

Mariloi’s Restaurant

But first, the history of the origin of the uniquely delicious Pancit Cabagan (or Pansi Cabagan, pansi being the Ybanag term for pansit), considered as one of the most popular food in the province and the Cagayan Vallley and a symbol of the town’s culture and heritage.

Just like any other noodle dish in the country, Pancit Cabagan is of Chinese origin. In 1887, according to a research conducted, a group of Chinese traders, originally from Amoy (now Xiamen), China, landed in Aparri (Cagayan). Among them was Sia Liang (also known as Diangga) who married Augustina Deray Laddaran, a Filipina, and established a panciteria in Cabagan during the pre-war period, using ingredients that were locally available at that time.

Today, many roadside eateries and restaurants in this town offer their own take on this very filling noodle recipe. This pansit version makes use of miki noodles (made with wheat, flour, lihiya and eggs) and eggs similar to that of Tuguegarao’s Pancit Batil Patung (translated as “beat the egg” and “place on top”).

The pancit’s toppings – veggies, lumpiang shanghai, lechon carajay, meatballs, quail eggs

However, the eggs are boiled and not poached. Quail eggs (pugo) are commonly used to make this dish.  This pansit version also has more sauce (sweet and salty) compared to the others. The noodles are not submerged in sauce or broth, so this cannot be categorized as mami (noodle soup).

Ms. Marivic Tagao

Marivic showed us how the miki noodles were cooked in oil in a wok, Upon draining, the already prepared toppings that make this pancit truly delicious are were generously added – bite-sized slices of lechon carajay (crispy pork belly boiled with spices and deep fried), lumpia shanghai (fried egg roll), meatballs, quail eggs, a medley of veggies  and cooked igado (stewed pork liver).  This was served with calamansi (Philippine lemon).  We all took turns trying out this iconic dish.

The restaurant also serves delicious bulalo (soup with bone-in beef shank), beef mami, chicken mami, pares (braised beef stew), lomidinuguan (Filipino version of blood stew) and papaitan (a bitter soup made from cow’s innards). The flourishing noodle industry of the town has spawned the annual Pansi Festival (every January 16-25, the patronal Feast of St. Vincent Ferrer) that includes events such as a noodle contest, beauty pageants and cultural and sports competitions.

Mariloi’s Pancieria and Restarant: Maharlika Highway, Brgy. Cubag, 3328 Cabagan (near Isabela State University-Cabagan Campus and beside 4J Hotel), Isabela. Mobile number: (0917) 505-1269.  E-mail: marlontagao@yahoo.com. Open daily, 7 AM – 10:30 PM. Coordinates: 17.41936,121.79452.

How to Get There: Cabagan is located 458.1 kms. (a 10-hr. drive), via the Pan Philippine Highway/AH26, from Manila and 45.4 kms. (a 1-hr. drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Balay San Jose (Santa Maria, Isabela)

Rancho Agripino

After our pottery tour at Brgy. Poblacion 3, we again boarded our bus for the short 7.1-km. (20-min.) drive, via the Enrile-Santa Maria Rd., to Balay San Jose within Rancho Agripina, owned by Santa Maria Mayor Hilario “Larry G. Pagauitan, whose Sanctaurio de San Jose (a favorite wedding venue) and Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (a retreat center) are visited by tourists and religious pilgrims.

Entrance

Upon entering the gate, our bus drove along a dirt road lined with life-side statues depicting the Stations of the Cross (Via Crusis).

One of the Stations of the Cross along the road

Upon arrival, we first dropped by the Sanctuario de San Jose, a chapel was built in memory of Maria Lourdes Gatan Pagauitan (November 19, 1988 – June 12, 2008), the mayor’s and his wife Sofie’s late daughter who died in a car accident. It was solemnly blest and its altar dedicated on November 19, 2015 (Maria’s birthday) by Most Rev. Sergio L. Utleg, D.D., Archbishop of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Tuguegarao.

Sanctuario de San Jose

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The chapel has a two-level Baroque-style façade topped by a triangular pediment and flanked by three-storey, square bell towers topped by a dome and cross.  The first level has an entrance portico (topped by angel statues) which has a statue of St. Joseph with the Child Jesus and is flanked by, flat pilasters, 3 semicircular arch stained glass windows and a semicircular arch statued niche.

The second level has a similar set up, the only difference being the statued niche above the entrance portico.  The triangular pediment has a circular, stained glass rose window within a bas-relief of a Jerusalem Cross, a cross potent (or crutch cross) with four Greek crosses.

The first two storeys of the flanking bell towers have semicircular arch blind windows while the receding third storey, housing the church bell, has open, semicircular arch windows.

Statue of St. Joseph and the Child Jesus

The left bell tower has the sign of “Banal na Pag-aaral Center, Area 11, Northern Luzon.”

The chapel interior

The main altar and its retablo

Inside the chapel are three altars (main and two side altars) with exquisitely carved retablos (altar backdrop), a painted barrel vaulted ceiling, colorful stained glass windows, religious statuary and a triforium (interior gallery)

Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe

Main entrance

Connected to the chapel, on it’s left, is the Casa di Spiritualita di San Giuseppe (St. Joseph House of Spirituality), which was solemnly blest on September 19, 2014 by Bishop Joseph A. Nacua, O.F.M., Cap. D.D. of the Diocese of Ilagan.  This retreat house has has 42 airconditioned rooms with private bath, four dormitories (two large and two small), refectories, conference hall, lunch room, chapels and a beautifully landscaped garden.  In front is an open air lanai topped by a view deck which is accessed by stairs.

The author at the viewdeck

Open-air lanai

In front of the chapel are statues of Christ Resurrected, St. Michael the Archangel and Tablets of the Ten Commandments.   On the right side of the chapel is a tableau depicting Christ Appearing Before his Disciples.

Statue of St.Michael the Archangel

Tableau of Christ Appears to His Disciples

We also dropped by its museum which is filled with reiligous statuary of all sizes, paintings, photos  and other religious artifacts such as monstrances, chalices, crucifixes, etc..

Museum of relious statuary,paintings, photos and artifacts

Also within Rancho Agripino is St. Joseph Library, Lourdes Chapel, Casa di Marello (for visiting priests and brothers of the Oblates of St. Joseph founded by St. Joseph Marello), Galilee (a cluster of airconditioned huts in the middle of a lake), Chapel of the Santo Sepulchro and the Risen Lord (a chapel with the image of Our Lady of Sorrows and the Risen Christ), The Hermitage (a solitary place for those who want to be alone with the Lord), a helipad  and a medical center (MLGP Medical Center).

MLGP Medical Center

Helipad

Balay San Jose: Rancho Agripino, Brgy. Calamagui West, Santa Maria 3330, Isabela.

How to Get There: Santa Maria is located 451.1 kms. (an 8.5-hour drive) from Manila and 67.8 kms. (a 1.5-hour drive) from the City of Ilagan.

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar (Cauayan City, Isabela)

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar

Come morning of our fourth day in Isabela, we toured the nearby (3-km.) Church of Our Lady of the Pillar.  This church, built with stone, mortar and bricks, was begun in 1825 by Dominican Fr.  Juan Prieto and finished in 1830.

The Baroque facade

During World War II, the church was heavily damaged (parts of the church, the sides of the presbytery were hit) and the convent was destroyed. This church, as well as the Church of St. Rose of Lima in Gamu, and the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, are examples of what is called as the “Cagayan Style” of Spanish churches that was inspired by the Tuguegarao church.

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha” and “Church of St. Rose of Lima

Bas-reliefs featuring curlicues

The left side of the church

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s two-level, Baroque brick (portions of the bricks have bas-reliefs and numbers and symbols etched on it) façade, similar to the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by semicircular arched windows.

The second level has a centrally located statued niche flank by semicircular arched windows. The undulating pediment, with its centrally located rose window, is topped by finials.

 

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha

The modern church interior

The rear of the church

The modern interior of the church has a fresco (The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary) above the altar.

The Coronation of the Blessed Virgin Mary

The top level of its beautiful five-storey bell tower on the right was later destroyed during the violent December 27, 1949 Intensity 7 earthquake, leaving only the base, and the upper level is a modern addition.

The old church bells and a plaque narrating the history of the parish

During our visit, we were allowed to climb to the very top of the tower where we had a panoramic bird’s eye view of the city and the surrounding countryside.

The Parish PastoralCenter

Candle house with a huge statue of Our Lady of the Pillar above it

Displayed on the right side of the church, between a plaque detailing the history of the parish, are two old church bells, dated 1792 and 1843 respectively.  Around the church are huge statues of the Pieta and Jesus Christ, a Candle House (above which is a huge statue of Our Lady of the Pillar) and a 2-storey Parish Pastoral Center (inaugurated on April 12, 2014) with function rooms and a parish museum.

Statue of the Pieta

At the rear are bas-reliefs of The Last Supper, The Holy Face of Jesus and The Sorrowful Mother.

Bas-reliefs of The Holy Face of Jesus, The Sorrowful Mother and The Last Supper

Church of Our Lady of the Pillar: Mabini St., Cauayan City, Isabela. Tel: (078) 652-2014 and (078) 634-5049. Feast of Our Lady of the Pillar: October 12.

How to Get There: Cauayan City is located 374 kms. (a 9-hour drive) from Manila and 33 kms. from Ilagan City.

Isabela Museum and Library (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

Isabela Museum and Library

On our third day in Isabela, a break in the Bambanti Festival proceedings brought us to the Isabela Museum and Library. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Mr. Jesus Fernandez Ordonez, Museum Researcher II who was to tour us around the museum.

The Neo-Classical facade

The two-storey museum showcases Isabela’s history and cultural heritage. Among the museum’s collections are antique furniture, fossils, ethnographic items, heirloom pieces, visual arts (photographs, paintings, sculpture, and graphic arts), artworks, historical and cultural dioramas and miniature models of provincial landmarks, among others.

Display at museum lobby

The building where the museum is located, built in 1946, once housed the province’s old capitol until 1991.  When a provincial capitol buiding was built in Brgy. Alibagu, Gov. Benjamin G. Dy decided to convert the old building into a museum and library.

Bambantii Festival Exhibit

Architect Baltazar Gigantone was commissioned to redesign the building into a museum.  On May 11, 1991, the new museum was inaugurated during the 143rd founding anniversary of the province.  In 2019, the museum was rehabilitated by Gov. Faustino G. Dy III.

Diorama of the Capture of Emilio Aguinaldo

Upon entry, one of the first exhibit we noticed was the diorama of the March 23, 1901 capture of Pres. Emilio Aguinaldo in Palanan by American Gen. Frederick Funston. One by one, we toured the museum’s numerous galleries.

Farming Implements

The Cultural Heritage/Antiques Gallery, on the right wing, is the first gallery we visited.  It displays, as its name implies, antique furniture, religious artifacts (monstrances, statuary, chalices, candle holders, etc.), relics from old structures (St. Matthias Church, Bungad Bridge, San Vicente Ferrer Chapel, San Pablo Church Ruins, Casa Real, etc.), burnay pottery, ceramic water filter (ca. 1930 – 1960), World War II memorabilia (M1 helmets, canteens, mess kits, Japanese rifle, nesting cups, etc.)and Scouting Jamboree memorabilia.

Check out “Church of St.Matthias

Sewing machines, typewriters, etc.

Old appliances, office equipment and everyday items on display include typewriters (Underwood, Royal, etc.), gas-operated flat irons, single-burner mini gas stoves, Singer sewing machines, prinsa (old style metal pan filled with hot coals), Gramophone records, an abacus, ash trays, case gin bottles (cuatro cantos), a Mansfield automatic film projector, Canon cameras, an  Olympia adding machine,  Paymaster check writer/printer, Gramophone, farming implements and a dadapilan (sugar cane crusher) and old wooden storage chests.

Cooking Implements and Wooden Chests

Burnay Pottery

The adjoining gallery houses the memorabilia of the late Sen. Heherson Alvarez (clothes, books, photos, etc.), the Governors’ Memorabilia and the Portraits of Power Gallery.

Portraits of Power Gallery

Memorabilia of Sen. Heherson Alvarez

On the left wing are the Awards and Bambanti Festival Gallery (gowns, photos, etc.), the Selyo Gallery (displays first day of issue Philippine stamps), Revolving Exhibit Gallery and Numismatics Gallery (displays coins and paper currency).

Selyo Gallery (Philippine stamps, first day of issue)

Numismatics Gallery (coins and paper currency)

Awards and Bambanti Festival Gallery

Another room houses the Contemporary Arts Gallery (Art Capital of the North Gallery, Visual Arts and Scaled Models).

Contemporary Arts Gallery

Scaled models

The Tilamsik ng Liwanag (Splash of Light”) Gallery displays replicas of Katipunan flags and photos of historical events (the Propaganda Movement, Katipunan Movement, Philippine Revolution, the Malolos Constitution, Philippine-American War, World War II, the Japanese Occupation, Martial Law years, People Power Revolution, etc.) and personalities (Jose Rizal, Emilio Aguinaldo, Manuel L. Quezon, etc.).

Tilamsik ng Liwanag (Splash of Light”) Gallery

The library has 21,793 books (including the minutes of session of the Provincial Board, from 1909 to 2011, the oldest in the country).

Library

Minutes of Session of the Provincial Board, the oldest in the country

Isabela Museum and Library: Arranz St., Brgy. Osmena, City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Tel: (078) 307-3004 and (078) 323-3146.  E-mail: isabelamuseumandlibrary@gmail.com and isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com. Open Mondays to Fridays, 8 AM – 5PM.

CVRC Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

CVRC Agro-Ecotourism and Organic Farm

The Cagayan Valley Research Center (CVRC) Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm, strategically located at the back of  the Ilagan Public Market and adjacent to the National Highway, was accredited by the Department of Tourism (DOT) on May 23, 2016.

Vermicompost Production Area

The CVRC is one of the Bureau of Agricultural Research’s active partners in research and development (R&D) in the region and is also a certified third party organic farm as issued by the OCCP, certified last August 2017 and renewed last October 29, 2018.  On June 5, 2016, it was also accredited as a learning site.

Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex

Learning Center and Museum for Organic Agriculture

The farm has an approximate are of 32 hectares of which 8 hectares is for the experimental farm, 10 hectares for the non-experimental farm and 14 hectares for the expansion area.

Personnel transplanting seedlings into trays

It offers organic vegetables, edible landscaping and vermicompost production which are open for public visits and stakeholders, particularly farmers, entrepreneurs and students.

Plant Genetic Resources Center

Organic Seed Storage Display House

It is home to the Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex, the Plant Genetics Resources Center, Organic Seed Storage Display House, the Learning Center and Museum for Organic Agriculture, Herbal Garden, Children’s Park, Alphabet Garden, Pinakbet Park, a butterfly sanctuary, sunflower garden, tunnel garden, a floating restaurant, Youth Garden, a kid zone garden and the Children’s Park with a haven of organic plants and vegetables.

Alphabet Garden

Mushroom Production Area

The Cagayan Valley Research Center – Annex, a satellite station of the CVRC, is the regional show window of the Department of Agriculture that is responsible for the promotion of soil and water management and conservation measures for agricultural development.

Herbal Garden

Solar System Garden

The Plant Genetics Resources Center (PGRC), inaugurated in May 2018, caters to the conservation of collected germplasm of major crops in the Cagayan Valley.

Children’s Park

Bahay Kubo

Here, you can pick and pay (bingwit mo, bayad mo) for your vegetables and they also have a fishing area, picnic cottages and offer bikes for rent (Php50/hour).  They also sell chickens, ducks, mushrooms, lettuce and other vegetables.

Statue of a Carabao Cooling Itself in Mud

Statues of Children Playing Luksong Tinik

CVRC Agro-Eco Tourism and Organic Farm: Purok 2, Brgy. San Felipe, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0956) 096-3388 and (0927) 910-1166.  E-mail: cvrc.rfo@da.gov.ph and da.cvrc@yahoo.com.  Website: www.cagayanvalley.da.gov.ph. Admission: Php20.

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center

On the afternoon of our second day in Isabela, we were driven to the Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center which is run by the Department of Agriculture-Cagayan Valley Research Center (DA-CVRC)   Employees Multi-purpose Cooperative.  Mangi is the Ybanag word for “corn.”

Ms. Elizabet Allam

Located just adjacent to the Isabela Police Provincial Office and the Ilagan Public Market, the food house is an innovative breakthrough of the DA-CVRC, promoting corn and its products.  The City of Ilagan is the country’s Corn Capital (with 80% of the population being corn farmers) and this restaurant offers corn fare such as corn coffee, energy ball, puto, nachos, inandappel,  corn shake, pansi de mangi, pastillas de mangi, all made with corn.

Corn-based food products

Here, we were welcomed by its manager Ms. Elizabeth S. Allam.  Ms. Allam has developed various corn recipes such as creamy cornbonara (with flat noodles made of purple corn), pinataro (its take on ginatan where the galapong is corn-based), cornganisa (a vegan sausage composed of mushrooms, malunggay, tofu and, of course, corn), and creamy corn pizza (corn is used for the topping, sauce and dough).

During our visit, Elizabeth introduced to us their decadent soft-serve ice cream – cornbetes. This corn-based product was launched by DA-CVRC Chairman William Contillo on October 12, 2019, the second day of the “Kain Na” Food and Travel Festival, North Luzon Edition at the Ayala Technohub in Baguio City. We each tasted the pure flavors of corn with crunchy corn kernels.

Cornbetes

Mangi Food Hauz and Pasalubong Center: Acacia St., Brgy. Baligatan, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela.  Mobile number: (0977) 213-1136, (0915)902-5266 and (0939) 115-6879.  E-mail: dacviarcempc@yahoo.com.

Bateria (San Esteban, Ilocos Sur)

Moro Watchtower (Bateria)

Part of Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant-sponsored tour

This old but very pretty, 10.4-m. high, circular Spanish-era watchtower, located on a park at the headland of the sandy cove, is one of four Spanish-era watchtowers in Ilocos Sur (the others are located in Santiago, Narvacan and Bantay).  Visible from Villa Quirino Point, it is the oldest landmark of San Esteban (Ilocos Sur).

Built by Augustinian Fr. Damaso Vieytez OSA (who became the first parish priest of San Esteban in 1848), Don Agustin Santiago and Don Domingo Sumabas, it has a diameter of approximately 8.5 m. and was built with sandstone, lime and mortar.

Historical marker. In my opinion, the 16th century date of construction is wrong. Should be the 19th century

A major landmark of the town, it was also called the Moro Watchtower and is one of the most intact Spanish-era watchtowers in the country.

The free standing concrete platform supported by concrete columns. In the middle is a skylight to illuminate the lower level. The platform is accessed by s steel stairway.

Accessed by a steel stairway, it has one entrance and a crenellated top where a row of cannons were once installed (hence the name bacteria, the Spanish word for “battery”).  Today, only tower viewer binoculars are installed.

View of the lower level from the skylight

The Philippine Tourism Authority ((now the Tourism Infrastructure and Enterprise Zone Authority or TIEZA) has declared it as a Tourism Site and it has been registered in the National Historical Institute (NHI), now the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP).   In December 2015 , the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure (Category I).

The concrete platform with stainless steel railings

In 2016, it was renovated by the National Historical Commission  of the Philippines (NHCP) who, together with the local government, also made improvements of the park including the addition of concrete picnic tables.  The banyan tree which once grew around the tower is now gone.

View of the sea from the watchtower

View of the shoreline and the park

Bateria: Brgy. Bateria, San Esteban, 2706 Ilocos Sur. Admission is free.

Santiago Cove Hotel and Restaurant: Sabangan Beach, Brgy. Sabangan, Santiago 2707, Ilocos Sur.  Mobile number: (0917) 115-4495 (Globe), (0917) 654-2078 (Globe), (0968) 851-5446 (Smart) and (0955) 773-9793 (Rodrigo’s).  E-mail: hsantiagocovehotel@gmail.com.