Category Archives: Architecture

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer (Sabtang, Batanes)

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Church of St. Vincent Ferrer

After our tour of Chavayan Village, we again boarded our van for 8.5-km. (20-min.) drive back to the población to visit the Spanish-era Church of St. Vincent Ferrer.  This church started as a small chapel in 1785.  In 1844, it was rebuilt in lime and stone by Dominican Fr. Antonio Vicente, OP.

Check out “Chavayan Village”

The church’s Baroque façade

In October 1956, after damage by a typhoon, Fr. Gumersindo Hernandez, OP, repaired the campanille and, from 1983 to 1984, Fr. Rafael Carpintero, OP, repaired the interior and replaced the cogon roofing with galvanized iron.

Historical plaque

In 2008, the church, convent and beaterio complex were declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines.

The massive buttresses at the sides

Like the Basco Cathedral and the Church of St. Charles Borromeo in Mahatao, this church has an espadaña-style facade, with two round arches for its two bells on the upper portion of the Baroque façade.

Check out “Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception” and “Church of St. Charles Borromeo”

The church convent

Four massive and broad pilasters, topped by heavy set, urn-like finials, flank the semicircular arched main entrance, at the first level, and the semicircular arched window at the second level.

The church’s interior

The thick walls enclosing the nave, made with stone and lime, are supported by buttresses while, at the back, four round pillars support the choir loft (below which is the baptistery).  A pedestal, with a stone statue of St. Vincent Ferrer, stands a short distance to the right of the church.

The main altar

Inside the church is the original Baroque retablo, with niches for statues of saints, above the high altar.  Made with polychrome and gilded woodwork, it was restored by Fr. Carpintero during the 1983 to 1984 renovation.

Stone statue, of St. Vincent Ferrer, on a pedestal

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer: Brgy. Malakdang (Poblacion) Sabtang, 3904 Batanes.  Mobile number: (0929) 110-2401. Feast of St. Vincent Ferrer: April 27.

How to Get There: There are scheduled 30 to 45-minute early morning boat trips by falowa (round-bottomed boat) from Ivana’s Radiwan Port to Sabtang. The church is located close to the port.

Sabtang Tourist Information Center: Brgy. Sinakan, 3904 Sabtang.  Mobile number: (0929) 226-8055.  E-mail: tourismsabtang@gmail.com.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

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National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two

The National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two, formerly the Dean Gallery, is one of the two buildings housing the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, one of Scotland’s national art galleries. Operated by National Galleries Scotland, it is twinned with Modern One which lies on the opposite side of Belford Road.

Check out “National Gallery of Scotland Modern One”

The English-Baroque facade

It is home to a changing program of world-class exhibitions and displays drawn from the permanent collection. During our visit, On permanent display is a recreation of the Scottish sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi‘s studio, as well as his magnificent, 7.3 m. high sculpture, Vulcan, that dominates the the Paolozzi’s Kitchen (named after the Scottish sculptor), reaching from the floor to the ceiling.

One of the tower, over staircases, that contain chimneys

The museum is housed in a English Baroque-style building, with Classical detail, which started out as the Dean Orphanage (the subject of a watercolor painting c.1830 by Thomas Hamilton).  Built in Craigleith stone from the nearby quarry, it took three years to build. Contributing to the Edinburgh skyline, in the west of the city center, are the towers, over the staircases, that contain chimneys. Above the entrance is a clock that came from the original Orphan Hospital and, in turn, from the 1764 demolition of the Netherbow Port on the High Street, which formerly separated the High Street from the Canongate.

The exhibit space

For many decades, this building, owned by the City of Edinburgh Council, served as the Dean Education Centre before its conversion into a gallery designed by the architect Terry Farrell and Partners. In 1999, the gallery opened opposite the existing Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. In 2011, both buildings were rebranded Modern Two and Modern One, respectively.

the 73 m. high Vulcan sculpture of Eduardo Paolozzi (1989)

Modern Two houses the Paolozzi Gift, a collection of works by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, given by the artist to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art in 1994, as well as the gallery’s world-famous collection of Surrealism (including works by Salvador Dalí, René Magritte and Alberto Giacometti) and a large collection of Dada and Surrealist art and literature largely made up by the collections of Roland Penrose and Gabrielle Keiller.

Modern Two also houses temporary exhibitions, a library (its great strengths are Dada and Surrealism, early twentieth century artists and contemporary Scottish art), an archive and a special books collection.

Two Lines Up Excentric VI (George Rickey, 1977, stainless steel)

The archive, containing over 120 holdings relating to twentieth and twenty-first century artists, collectors and art organizations, including the gallery’s own papers, holds one of the world’s best collections of Dada and Surrealist material. The special books collection, containing over 2,500 artist books and limited edition livres d’artiste (again with a main focus on Dada and Surrealism), also contains books by other major artists from the twentieth century including Oskar Kokoschka‘s Die Träumenden Knaben (1917) and Henri Matisse’s Jazz (1947), all available to the public in the reading room which is only open to the public by appointment. The Gabrielle Keiller Library hosts regular changing displays that showcase items from these collections.

Master of the Universe (Eduardo Paolozzi, 1989)

Modern Two is surrounded by a sculpture garden with a number of modern and avant-garde works on display, including Gate (1972) by William Turnbull, Two Lines up Excentric VI (1977) by George Rickey, La Vierge d’Alsace (1919–1921) by Emile-Antoine Bourdelle, There will be no Miracles Here (2007–2009) by Nathan Coley, Master of the Universe (1989) by Eduardo Paolozzi, Two Two-Way Mirrored Parallelograms Joined with One Side Balanced Spiral Welded Mesh (1996) by Dan Graham, Macduff Circle (2002) by Richard Long, and Escaped Animals (2002) by Julian Opie.

National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two: 75 Belford Rd, Edinburgh EH4 3DR, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 624 6200.  E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org. Website: www.nationalgalleries.org.  Open daily, 10 AM to 5PM. Coordinates: 55°57′06.52″N 3°13′26.75″W.

National Gallery of Scotland Modern One (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

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National Gallery of Scotland Modern One

The National Gallery of Scotland Modern One, with its renowned collection of more than 5,000 items dating from the late 19th century to the present day, is housed in the former Watson’s Institution Building which was designed, in the Greek Doric style, by William Burn (1789-1870) and completed in 1825 as the John Watson School for Fatherless Children of the Professional Classes.  Its five-bay Neo-Classical frontage has a grand, six-columned portico.

The five-bay Neo-Classical frontage

In 1979, the building, with its classrooms and dormitories, was bought by the Crown Estates Commissioners and was successfully adapted, to its new function, from 1981 to 1984.  In 2011, its name was changed to Modern One. Operated by National Galleries Scotland, it is twinned with National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two which lies on the opposite side of Belford Road.

Check out “National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two“

The museum lobby

International post-war work features art by Francis Bacon, David Hockney, Andy Warhol, Joan Eardley and Alan Davie, with more recent works by artists including Douglas Gordon, Antony Gormley, Robert Priseman and Tracey Emin and an outstanding collection of modern Scottish art.

Ah Kong – Ghost (Rae-Yen Song, 2022)

It presents works from the collection as well as a program of changing exhibitions. The early part of the collection features important Surrealist and German Expressionist art from the beginning of the twentieth century, with paintings by Giacometti, Hockney, Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso.

Lee Miller (Pablo Picasso, 1937, oil on canvas)

Also included are works by André Derain and Pierre Bonnard, cubist paintings, holdings of expressionist and modern British art, and 20th century Scottish Colourists Samuel John Peploe, John Duncan Fergusson, Francis Cadell and Leslie Hunter.

Glacier Chasm (Wilhelmina Barns-Graham, 1951, oil on canvas)

The collection also includes ARTIST ROOMS, a collection of modern and contemporary art acquired for the nation by National Galleries Scotland and Tate with support from the National Heritage Memorial Fund, the Art Fund and the Scottish and British Governments.

?I Am Your Conduit (2014, thread embedded in handmade cotton paper)

The growing collection includes works by major international artists including Andy Warhol, Louise Bourgeois, Robert Mapplethorpe and Damien Hirst. The collection includes the larger of Roy Lichtenstein‘s In the Car pieces. The displays change on a regular basis.

Self-Portrait (Robert Mapplethorpe, 1980)

In 2002, the lawn to the front of Modern One was re-landscaped to a dramatic, award-winning (it won the prestigious Gulbenkian Prize in 2004) design by architectural historian Charles Jencks (b. 1939) entitled Landform Ueda, an eye-catching work or art in their own right.

Grace Jones (Robert Mapplethorpe, 1984, gelatin silver print on paper)

This sinuous series of grass-covered stepped terraces that rises to form a serpentine mound, with three pools of water occupying crescent-shaped hollows in between.  It also includes the remains of an 18th century windmill.

Tightrope Walker (Paul Klee, 1923, color lithograph on paper) (Copy)

Two Figures (Natalia Goncharova, ca. 1910-20, pencil and crayon on paper)

The sculpture park includes bronze works such as Personnage (1978) and Femme (Woman) (1970) by Joan Miro; Conversation with Magic Stones (1973) by Barbara Hepworth; and Reclining Figure (1951) by Henry Moore; among others.

Conversation with Magic Stones (Barbara Hepworth, 1973, bronze)

Reclining Figure (Henry Moore, 1951, bronze)

The Neo-Classical façade of Modern One is home to Martin Creed‘s Work No. 975, EVERYTHING IS GOING TO BE ALRIGHT. Modern One backs on to the Water of Leith river and walkway, which can be accessed by a long flight of steep steps behind the Gallery.

Landform Ueda (Charles Jencks)

Personnage (Joan Miro)

National Gallery of Scotland Modern One: 73 and 75 Belford Road, Edinburgh EH4 3DR, Scotland, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 131 624 6200. E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org. Website: www.nationalgalleries.org. Open daily, 10 AM to 5 PM.  Admission is free.

Church of St. Michael the Archangel (Bacoor City, Cavite)

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Church of St. Michael the Archangel

The original church, in one of the oldest parishes in Cavite (established as a separate parish, from Kawit, on January 18, 1752), was made from wood, stone, bamboo and nipa in 1669 and used to face Bacoor Bay.

The church’s Baroque facade

In October 1762, due to its strategic location, the church and convent was destroyed by the British on their way to occupy Cavite Puerto (now Cavite City).  In 1774, it was rebuilt in stone and, from 1788 to 1820, Fr. Domingo Sevilla Pilapil rebuilt the church in stone and mortar, adding the retablo, bell tower and patio.

Plaza Gomes

After the June 3, 1863 Manila earthquake, the church was reoriented inland (to prevent entry of sea water during high tides),  rebuilt, and enlarged with adobe, from 1863 to 1870, by parish priest (from June 2, 1824 to 1872) Fr. Mariano Gomes delos Angeles (of GOMBURZA fame) and Architect Felix Rojas (who later designed the Neo-Gothic Church of Sto. Domingo in Intramuros, Manila).  In 1872, after Fr. Gomes’ execution on February 17, the administration of the church was turned over to the Augustinian Recollect Fr. Juan Gomez.

The church’s three-storey bell tower

The National Historical Commission plaque installed in 2022

On May 31, 1898, during the Philippine Revolution, revolutionaries raised the Philippine flag on the bell tower.  After the revolution, the church was returned to the secular clergy. 

Important Cultural Property Marker

The present structure is what remained of this once longest church in Cavite, which once measured 20 brazas (33.4 m.) long and 5.5 brazas (9.9 m.) wide), after a third of the church was destroyed, on June 13, 1899, during the Philippine-American War.

The church interior

The choir loft area

On December 28, 2020, the church, as well as the nearby Cuenca House, were declared as an Important Cultural Properties by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts, National Historical Commission of the Philippines, and the National Museum of the Philippines.

The main altar

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church’s Baroque façade has a segmental arch main entrance (topped by a segmental arch statued niche), flanked by coupled flat pilasters, with Doric capitals and urn-like finials, and narrow, semicircular arched windows.  The triangular pediment has a centrally located, semicircular arch niche with a statue of St. Michael the Archangel.

The three-storey bell tower, on the church’s right, has a square base with coupled flat pilasters (also topped by Doric capitals) and a segmental arch open and blind (where the “Simbahan ng Bacoor” plaque is mounted) windows.  The upper two storeys, in receding planes, are octagonal, with blind and open, semicircular arch windows.

Inside is a narrow nave, exposed roof trusses with no ceiling, a main altar and two side altars.  Along the walls are burial niches.

One of the burial niches along the walls

In 2021, a historical marker and a bust of Fr. Mariano Gomes was installed front of the church convent, built in 1843 by Fr. Gomes.

The convent on the church’s left

The Padre Mariano Gomes Marker

Church of St. Michael the Archangel: Gen. E. Evangelista St., Poblacion, 4102 Bacoor City, Cavite.Tel: (046) 436-0456, 434-5679 (office) and 434-6466 (rectory). E-mail: sanmiguelbacoor@gmail.com.  Feast of St. Michael the Archangel: May 12.

How to Get There: Bacoor City is located 24.5 kms. (a one-hour drive) from Manila and 26.5 kms. (a one-hour drive) from Trece Martires City.  The church, right in front of the city’s Hall of Justice and Justice B. Ocampo Park, is located near the City Hall.

St. Ferdinand Parish Church (City of Ilagan, Isabela)

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St. Ferdinand Parish Church

The St. Ferdinand Parish Proto-Cathedral, one of the oldest churches in Isabela, is located beside St. Ferdinand College and Rizal Park.  The present foundations of the present church was built, from 1696 to 1700, by Fr. Miguel Matos, O.P.,  as a mamposteria and brick church.

In 1777, the solid belfry (existing up to present) was started by Fr. Pedro de San Pedro, O.P., and finished, in 1783, by Fr. Joaquin Sancho, O.P.. In 1786, the bell of the church was forged.  On December 20, 1803, the church became the final resting place of Nueva Segovia Bishop Agustin Pedro Blaquer, OSA, who died in Ilagan on December 19, 1803 after he got sick during his visit to Cauayan. He was interred at the Epistle side of the church.

Old photo of the church probably showing the 1930 facade (St. Ferdinand Official Facebook account)

In 1829, Fr. Luis Garcia, O.P., constructed the sacristy  of ladrillo and finished in 1833. The 1866 typhoon destroyed the church dome and Fr. Pablo Almazan, O.P., demolished major portions of the church’s solid walls in order to build a bigger one.  In 1892, Fr. Isidro Martinena, O.P., established a campo santo (cemetery) in Barangay Santo Tomas, located outside of Ilagan poblacion.

Another old photo of the church, probably showing the 1960s renovation as the buttresses are now more prominent and entrance and stained glass windows have been modified. (photo: hiSTORYA)

The present façade and major parts of the church were constructed in the 1930s. It was renovated in the 1960s. The bell tower, sanctuary, sacristy, parish hall and the old campo santo are the remaining traces of the Spanish-era church.

The present Baroque facade. The buttresses  are now rounded and the stained glass windows and blind arches have also been modified.

During a recent renovation, the ladrillo details of the sanctuary, the Epistle side and Gospel side of the church were once again revealed after the cement were chipped-off.  The ladrillo fence of the campo santo could still be recognized.

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s single level Baroque façade has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by massive circular buttresses (in turn topped by urn-like finials) and semicircular blind arches (with two smaller semicircular arches within).

Above  the main entrance is a corbelled cornice with a blind semicircular arch enclosing three (one big flanked by two small) semicircular arch stained glass windows.  The triangular pediment, with broken curves along the top, has a centrally located blind rose window.

On the church’s left is the original four-storey square bell tower.  It has narrow semicircular windows, paired Solomonic columns (topped by urn-like finials) at the corners and is topped by a pyramidal roof. 

 

In 1973, the church became the seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan, a suffragan diocese (founded on January 31, 1979) of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Tuguegarao. However, in 2003, the diocese was transferred to the new Cathedral Church (and Bishops’ Residence) in Barangay Upi, in Gamu, Isabela.  In 2013, the present cathedral was placed under the patronage of St. Michael the Archangel. Despite the transfer, both city and diocese still remain under the patronage of St. Ferdinand III of Castile, whose feast day is celebrated on May 30. At present, the centuries-old structure is designated as a proto-cathedral by the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan.

The 4-storey bell tower is all that remained of the original Spanish-era church

On October 29, 2023, a mass was held for the celebration of the first Holy Rosary Festival wherein the pilgrim image of the St. Ferdinand Parish – Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary was episcopally crowned by Most Rev. David William V. Antonio, D.D., STHD., bishop of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan.

The April 22, 2024 fire that engulfed the church (photo: Rappler)

On April 22, 2024, Monday, at around 11:40 AM, a devastating fire started from the roof of the church while workers were installing steel trusses on the church’s ceiling,  It was extinguished after an hour but most of its interior was destroyed. The final investigation report of the Bureau of Fire Protection (BFP) identified the total cost of the damages is estimated to be around P35-40 million which include antique religious items among others. The Department of Public Works and Highways (DPWH) and Ilagan City Engineering Office conducted a series of tests and studies which revealed that only around 20-30% of the structural integrity of the church remained after the fire took down most of its interior.

The burnt out interior of the church (photo: Philippine News Agency)

Just days after the fire that destroyed the proto-cathedral, the City Government of Ilagan, in coordination with the Roman Catholic Diocese of Ilagan, were able to put up a temporary altar and steel benches covered with aluminum roofing sheets and steel trusses in the church-front courtyard (often referred by locals as the Family Park). Since April 28, 2024, while the clearing and restoration of the church is still ongoing, all regular masses of the parish were temporarily being held, by parish priest Fr. Ric-Zeus Angobang (he became parish priest in August 2023), in the make-shift altar.

St. Ferdinand Parish Church: Centro Poblacion, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 624-2467.  Mobile number: (0997) 068-9967.

City Tourism Office: 2/F, City Hall Bldg., 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 624-1511. E-mail: tourism@cityofilagan.gov.ph.

City of Ilagan Tourist Information and Assistance Center: Bonifacio Park, 3300 City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 324-7769.  E-mail: ilaganinfocenter@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: The City of Ilagan is located 429.3 kms. (an 8-hour drive) from Manila and 35.5 kms. (a 1-hour drive) from Cauayan City.

Archdiocesan Shrine of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal (Manila)

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Archdiocesan Shrine of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal (Church of St. Vincent de Paul)

The airy and relatively cool Archdiocesan Shrine of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal (the original and established center for the propagation of the Miraculous Medal and the Vista Domiciliaria), formerly the Church of St. Vincent de Paul, had its beginning in 1872 when the Vincentians bought a piece of land in the barrio of San Marcelino (a part of the Parish of San Fernando de Dilao in Paco) which was a rice field near the Pasig River.

Plaque installed by the Historical Research and Markers Committee in 1935

The house they built served as refuge to the seminarians and Vincentians housed in the San Carlos Seminary which was destroyed, together with most buildings in Intramuros, by the July 1880 earthquake.

The church portico

A chapel, adjacent to the Vincentian Central House, was built in 1883.  Later, the chapel was used as a church, from 1898 to 1909, when the church and convent of Paco were destroyed by the American forces in retaliation for their initial defeat by the Filipino forces following the declaration of war against the Americans in 1899. The parish was canonically established on December 6 1909 by Archbishop Jeremiah Harty (an alumnus of the Diocesan Seminary in St. Louis, Missouri which was under the direction of the Vincentians).

Historical plaque installed by the National Museum in 2018 declaring the church as an Important Cultural Property

The present concrete church was designed by Architect Andres Luna de San Pedro (son of the great Filipino painter Juan N. Luna) and built in 1912 (the 50th anniversary of the arrival of the Vincentians and the Sisters of Charity in the Philippines) by Belgian missionaries.

Decree of Erection

During World War II, the Japanese occupied the church for almost 7 months and, during the Battle of Manila in February 1945, was badly damaged when the Japanese burned the interior of the church, massacring scholars, professors and Vincentian Fathers who were living there.

Dedication of the archdiocesan shrine

From 1946, the dome, belfries and roof were restored and fitted with a stained glass windows. From 2007 to 2010, the pillars and walls were retrofitted; the galvanized iron of the roof was replaced with long-span, blue-colored sheets; the wooden trusses were replaced with steel trusses; and the entire exterior and interior walls of the church were repainted.

Interior of the church

On September 10, 2022, seismic base isolators (acting like wheels to stabilize the building during earthquakes) were mounted, by RBRA Consulting Firm, on the pillars of the church, making it the first earthquake-resistant church in the Philippines.

Painting of St. Vincent de Paul flanked by stained glass windows

On December 5, 2018, the church was declared as an Important Cultural Property by the National Museum of the Philippines and, on July 16, 2023, it was elevated into an archdiocesan shrine by Manila Archbishop Jose F. Cardinal Advincula.  On that same date, the newly-renovated retablo (altar backpiece) was also blessed.

 

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church has a Latin Cross layout and a dome.  Its two-level Baroque façade has balustraded portico with semicircular arched main entrance flanked by flat pilasters (with Corinthian capitals) and two smaller, semicircular arched entrances (topped by festoons) at the first level.  Above the main entrance, at the second level, is a rose window flanked by two semicircular arched windows.  

The triangular pediment, topped by a statue of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal, has a centrally located bas relief also of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. Flanking the façade are two four-storey, square bell towers with semicircular arched windows. The receding fourth level has a balustrade.

The main altar with its newly-renovated retablo (altar backpiece)

Archdiocesan Shrine of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal: 959 San Marcelino St., Ermita, Manila 1000, Metro Manila.  Telefax: 2525-7853 and 2524-2022 local 101.  Feast of St. Vincent de Paul: September 27.  Feast of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal: November 27.

How to Get There: The church is located within Adamson University (the church is commonly called Adamson Church), beside the university’s CS Walkway and SV Building.  The nearest bus stop to Adamson University is D. Romualdez Sr./United Nations Ave..

Laperal White House (Baguio City, Benguet)

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Laperal White House

The Laperal White House, also known as  Laperal Guesthouse, is known today as the “White House” due to its noticeable white exterior paint.  It was built by Filipino businessman Roberto Laperal, Sr. (1890-1966, he also built the Arlegui Guest House in 1929) in the 1930s. He and his wife Victorina (nee Guizon) Laperal made the house as their summer vacation home.

The narrow and elongated house, made with narra and yakal wood, was designed in Victorian style with its wooden planks and gables and steep roof. Inside are four rooms and a narrow, winding staircase.  The house withstood many natural and man-made disasters, such as the July 16, 1990 Luzon earthquake.

In 2007, the house was sold, by Roberto Laperal Jr. and his wife, Purificacion Manotok Laperal, to  Chinese Filipino billionaire tycoon Lucio Tan who had it renovated and refurbished, with proper maintenance, then made it into a tourist attraction. From then on, the house was opened to the public.

In 2013, the tycoon’s Tan Yan Kee Foundation transformed the ground floor of the house into a Philippine Bamboo Foundation (PBFI) museum (Ifugao Bamboo Carving Gallery) which houses Filipino artworks made of bamboo and wood. Today, it is the home of a new, upscale fine-dining restaurant called Joseph’s (owned by the older brother of ABS-CBN News broadcast journalist, Bernadette Sembrano) which was opened in December 2022 and serves Continental and contemporary French cuisine.

According to believers, the house is haunted, with stories of sightings of a little girl (said to be the three-and-a-half year old child of the owner who was killed while running, across the street, towards her nanny) standing motionless on the third step of the staircase fronting the house; a woman (said to be the nanny who killed herself in one of the bedrooms) looking out the third floor glass windows; and a white figure coming down, from the attic, down to the front entrance.

During World War II, the basement of the house was used by the Japanese as a garrison where, if stories are to believed, many were brutally tortured and executed, including members of the Laperal family.  Don Roberto survived the war but accidentally slipped, and fell to his death, from the stairs in front of the house.  He, as well as ghosts of family members, the torture and execution victims, as well as Japanese soldiers (seen in the upper bedrooms), still haunt the house.  These spirits are believed to violently push and scratch visitors to the place.

The front porch of the house. Don Roberto died here and the ghost of a little girl also appears here

Lucio Tan never stayed in the place during his trips to Baguio.   The 2010 horror movie White House, starring Gabby Concepcion, Lovi Poe, Iza Calzado and Maricar Reyes, was shot inside the building.

Laperal White House: 14 Leonard Wood Rd., Baguio City, 2600 Benguet. Coordinates: 16°24′40″N 120°36′17″E.

Baguio Convention and Cultural Center (Benguet)

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Baguio Convention and Cultural Center

Originally built as the Baguio Convention Center (BCC), this facility, sitting on a 10,000 sq. m. lot, with over 3,000 sq. m. building footprint, was established for the holding of conventions, gatherings, and other big events in the city.

Designed in the Brutalist architectural style by Architect Jorge Y. Ramos, it was inaugurated on July 17, 1978 by the late president Ferdinand E. Marcos during the opening of the World Chess Tournament championship series between Russian grandmaster Anatoly Karpov and Russian defector Victor Korchnoi.    From 2017 to 2020, it was renovated to provide a better venue for cultural and creative endeavors and, in 2022, it was renamed as the Baguio Convention and Cultural Center (BCCC).

Entrance portico with their four huge columns with halipan ((rat guard) motif

Situated across the University of the Philippines College Baguio and flanked by the summer courthouses of the Supreme Court and the Court of Appeals, it exudes an ethnic flavor, with its pyramidal roof and huge concrete posts, resembling a traditional Ifugao bale with its halipan (rat guard) on its four posts at the entrance.  Considered the most spacious edifice North of Manila, it continues to cater to conferences, conventions, meetings, and other social functions in the city.

Jandy at the entrance

It boasts a large, pillar-less main hall, equipped with high-definition audio-visual equipment, that can accommodate more than 2,000 persons (500 on each side), making it ideal for conferences, exhibitions, trade shows and conventions.

The lobby with its two murals

It also has several function rooms for meetings, break-out sessions and other smaller events.   The center is also the venue for the Baguio Arts Festival, housing a permanent exhibit hall where local artists may have their works displayed and showcased. The basement also houses the city’s command center.

The center’s main hall

Two murals, an interconnected diptych with a red string running through it, were painted by local Baguio artists Benedicto “Bencab” Cabrera (National Artist for the Visual Arts in 2006), Leonard Aguinaldo, Roland Bay-an, Kawayan de Guia, Venazir Marinez and John Frank Subido.  Based on the quincentennial of the arrival of the Europeans in the Philippines, both are permanently displayed at the lobby.

Seating area

Baguio Convention and Cultural Center: Governor Pack Rd., 2600 Baguio City.  Tel:  (074) 446 2009. Mobile number: (0928) 193-7336. E-mail: baguiocc2022@gmail.com.

Church of St. Rose of Lima (Gamu, Isabela)

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Church of St. Rose of Lima

This church, constructed in 1738 by Fr. Martin Fernandez, OP, was, together with the convent, destroyed by the strong Intensity 6 earthquake on December 29, 1949. From 1950-1951, a wooden church was constructed, next to the ruins of the Spanish church. La Salette missionary, Fr. Maurice Cardenal, started the restoration of the Spanish church. In 1968, a new roof was constructed together with the flooring.

The Baroque-style, brick facade

In March 1978, CICM missionary Fr. John Couvreur, the 75th parish priest, completely renovated the interior of the church and, in March 1979, the ruins of the sacristy were restored and transformed into a week day chapel.  From 1950 to 1951, a new brick bell tower, in Spanish style, was built but was later dismantled and the recovered materials were used to build chapels in several barrios.  From the ruins of the convent, a multi-purpose hall and dormitory were put up for seminars and meetings.

The paired columns (round and square) flanking the main entrance

On June 24, 1993, the roof and ceiling of the church was destroyed by typhoon Goring.  It was restored, in a short time, and a beautiful ceiling was built.  The church houses a life-size image of the Peruvian nun Rose of Lima, the patron saint of embroidery, gardening, and cultivation of blooming flowers.

The National Museum historical plaque

On June 27, 2019, the National Museum of the Philippines and the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) recognized the church, and its surrounding complex, as an Important Cultural Property and, on May 12, 2023, a historical marker was installed. This church, as well as the Church of Our Lady of Atocha in Alicia, and the Church of Our Lady of the Pillar in Cauayan City, are examples of what is called as the “Cagayan Style” of Spanish churches that was inspired by the Tuguegarao church.

Check out “Church of Our Lady of Atocha“ and “Church of Our Lady of the Pillar“

The modern interior

AUTHOR’S NOTES

The church’s Baroque-style, brick façade has a semicircular arch main entrance flanked by paired (one square and one round) pilasters, above which are semicircular arched windows, and semicircular arch niches for statues (currently empty).  The undulating pediment, capped by pinnacles, has a small, centrally located rose window.

On the church’s right is a three-storey, square bell tower, with receding storeys, semicircular arch blind window on the first storey, segmental arch open windows on the two upper storeys and a pyramidal roof.  On the church’s left is the brick convent which is now a multipurpose hall, used for seminars and meetings, and a dormitory.

The main altar and retablo

Church of St. Rose of Lima: Poblacion, 3301 Gamu, Isabela.  Mobile numbers: (0916) 680-3680 and (0936) 360-1064.   E-mail: srlgamu@zoho.com. Feast of St. Rose of Lima: August 23.

Isabela Provincial Tourism Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-3146.  Mobile number: (0917) 317-3820.  E-mail: isabelatourismoffice@gmail.com.

Isabela Provincial Information Office: Provincial Capitol Complex, City of Ilagan, Isabela. Tel: (078) 323-0248.  Mobile number: (0927) 395-7555.  E-mail: letters_info@yahoo.com.

How to Get There: Gamu is located 413.4 kms. (a 7.75-hour drive) from Manila and 21.5 kms.(a 30-min. drive) from the City of Ilagan.  The church is located in front of the town’s municipal hall.

Sinheungsa Temple (Sokcho City, South Korea)

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Main courtyard of Sinheungsa Temple

Part of Cebu Blue Ocean Academy-sponsored South Korea tour

One of the highlights of our visit to the very scenic to the often very busy Seoraksan National Park, Korea’s most beautiful national park, is our tour of Sinheungsa (sometimes spelled Shinheungsa), the District Headquarters Temple of the Third District of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, supervising all the temples located in the northeastern Gangwon Province Area.

Situated on the slopes of Seoraksan in Sokcho, Gangwon Province, it is translated in English as “Spirit Arising Temple,” “Divine Inspiration Temple” or “Burgeoning Temple” (referring to the budding of a lotus flower, the symbol of enlightenment).

Seoraksan National Park

One of two Buddhist temples within the bounds of the national park (the other is Baekdamsa), it is the main temple of the area known as Outer Sorak-san Mountain.  It is remarkable for its constant changing over the centuries (it not only changed its position and name, but also the school of Buddhism to which it adhered). The temple stores numerous works of Buddhist art such as paintings, sculptures and tapestries.

Check out “Seoraksan National Park”

Many tourists hiking Seoraksan pass by this ancient Korean Zen (Seon) temple (believed to be the oldest in the world) on their way up to Ulsanbawi (peak), reached by following the wall outside Sinheungsa.  They also come to this ancient temple, with its deep historical significance, because of its beautiful scenery.  Other temples with the name Sinheungsa are located in Seoul, Samcheok and Icheon.

Kensington Star Hotel, the original site of Hyangheonsa

Historical accounts vary as to whether this temple was first constructed (at the site of Kensington Star Hotel) by the famed Buddhist monk Jajang-yulsa (590-658 A.D.) in 653 A.D. (the sixth year of the reign of Queen Jindeok of the Silla dynasty), first called Hyangseongsa (Temple of Zen Buddhism), or in 637 A.D. following his return from studying in Tang China.

In 698 A.D., the seventh year of King Hyoso’s (687-702 A.D.) reign, it was destroyed by fire. Three years later, in 701 A.D., Sinheungsa Temple was rebuilt by Great Master Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.), another famous monk and founder of a religious sect, on the site of Neunginam Hermitage (the present location of Naewonam Hermitage). He also renamed the temple, this time to Seonjeongsa Temple.

Bojero – a pavilion built in 1770

For 1,000 years, the temple blossomed in reputation but, in 1642, the temple burned down again and it was rebuilt in 1648 during the 20th year of the reign of King Injo of the Joseon dynasty. Many of the buildings built during that time are still standing, like the sanctuary, Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, Myeongbu-jeon Hall, Boje-ru Pavilion, Samseong-gak Hall, etc.

According to a legend, after most of the monks at the temple left after the 1642 fire, the Three Venerable monks Yeongseo, Hyewon, and Yeon-ok all vowed that they would rebuild the temple one day, passionately praying the gido (ritual supplication prayer every day.  One day, they had the same dream in which an old silver-haired heavenly deity called Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) appeared and told them to change the location of the temple to the bottom of the gorge to prevent three big misfortunes.

Pointing to the ground where the temple is currently situated, he said, “If you build a temple here, there will be no damage from the three major disasters of fire, floods or storms.”  Afterwards, this deity disappeared.  Thus, the temple was re-constructed at the current location and renamed as “Sinheungsa,” meaning “the temple was blessed by God (sin) and became prosper (heung).”

During the 195-1953 Korean War, the temple was badly damaged.  In 1995, the Chinese character sin of the temple’s name was changed from sin (meaning “god”) to sin (meaning “new”), in their wish that the temple will revive Buddhism again in the Yeongdong area (eastern part of the Taebaek Mountain Range).

The author at Iljumun Gate

The first structure that greeted Frank, James, Kim and I at the temple is the top heavy Iljumun Gate (or “One Pillar Gate”). After passing through this entry gate, we noticed the sharp, jagged rocks of the 1,708 m. high Mt. Seoraksan (the third highest in the country) surrounding us on all sides.  After passing Iljumun , we soon came across the 14.6-m. (48-ft.) high, 108 ton Great Unification Buddha, a gilt-bronze Buddha statue called “Tongil Daebul” on the right.

Tongil Daebul (Great Unification Buddha)

The largest seated Buddha statue in the world, it is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).  It sits atop a 4.3-m. (15-ft.) high lotus pedestal, of the same material, making the total height of 18.9 m. (62 ft.), excluding the lightning rod and the beautiful nimbus which surrounds Seokgamoni-bul’s head. It is flanked with 16 delicately engraved panels that tell the entire path of Buddha’s enlightenment through the words of Bodhisattva, messengers of Buddha’s teaching.

The 4.3 m. (15-ft.) high lotus pedestal flanked with 16 delicately engraved panels that tell the entire path of Buddha’s enlightenment through the words of Bodhisattva, messengers of Buddha’s teaching

This statue, serenely looking out on the amazing landscape of northern South Korea, cost 3.8 billion won (US$4.1 million) to erect, raised through the small contributions of over 300,000 anonymous donors visiting the temple over a decade in duration.  The construction started in 1987 and it was only finished in 1997 when the eyes were placed on the face. The statue, less than 50 kms. (30 mi.) from the impenetrable border between North Korea and South Korea, represents the crucial wish of the Korean people for the reunification of the divided country.

The beautiful nimbus surrounding the head of the Buddha.  Also shown is the center forehead adornment, half closed eyes and slight smile

The massive bronze statue is also positioned in the “Touching the Earth Mudra” (or the “Earth Witness Mudra”) which was the pose the Buddha had when he attained enlightenment. Tongil Daebul sits with legs crossed and half-closed eyes in meditation, his lips displaying a perceptible smile. His forehead is adorned with eight 8-cm. (3-in.) stones of amber, with a single piece of jade in the center that is 10 cms. (4 in.) in diameter. The Buddha’s robust torso is draped by a flowing robe with gentle folds, revealing the right shoulder.  The hands of Tongil Daebul are positioned in the mudra, symbolizing the “enlightened one.”

Contained within the hollow statue are three pieces of the Buddha’s sari, crystallized remains collected after his cremation, donated by the Myanmar government, and the Tripitaka, the original Buddhist scriptures.  The three sari are backed by three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The statue is fronted by beautiful bronze incense burners and lanterns. A great number of people come here to pray for their wishes.

A beautiful bronze lantern

In front of the Tongildae-bul are three pathways. The left pathway goes to Biseondae, a summer house where, according to legend, the fairy Ma-go rose to heaven. The middle pathway goes to Ulsanbawi, a natural big stone ball, and passes Naewon-am and Gyejo-am. It is also the way to the green bridge Sesim-gyo. The right pathway goes to the white bridge Sesim-gyo.

The closed spandrel arch Hyeonsu-gyo Bridge

We finally had your fill of this amazing statue (which took us some time) and we made our way up a path, for two to three hundred meters, then crossed a ravine beyond the statue via a newly built, closed spandrel arch bridge to the right called Hyeonsu-gyo.  After crossing the Hyeonsu-gyo Bridge, the long stone wall of the main temple grounds awaited us.

The long stone wall of the main temple ground

We entered the temple through the rather boxy Cheonwangmun (or Sacheonwangmun) Gate which mark’s the entrance of the temple’s boundaries.  It houses some excellent examples of the Four Heavenly Kings.

The boxy Cheonwangmun (or Sacheonwangnum) Gate

These four Cheonwang (king) statues, believed to be Buddha’s protectors and evil-fighters, are placed on either side – Jiguk Cheonwang (“King of the East”) with a sword, Damun Cheonwang (“King of the North”) with a lute, Gwangmok Cheonwang (“King of the West”) with a tower, and Jeungjang Cheonwang (“King of the South”) with a dragon.

L-R: Damun Cheonwang (“King of the North”) with a lute, and Jiguk Cheonwang (“King of the East”) with a sword

In contrast with the big, generous smile of Tongil Daebul, the intimidating expressions of these four Cheonwang (king) statues welcome all those that dare enter the temple grounds.

L-R: Jeungjang Cheonwang (“King of the South”) with a dragon, and Gwangmok Cheonwang (“King of the West”) with a tower

To enter the main temple courtyard, we had to pass through the low-lying Boje-ru Pavilion, along a wooden building on stilts that acts as a screen that hides the rest of the inner portion of the temple grounds at Sinheungsa Temple.

Boje-ru Pavilion, a wooden building on stilts

We had to watch our heads so that we don’t smack it up against the ceiling as we passed under it.

Entering the main courtyard from Boe-ru Pavilion

Straight ahead is the Geukrakbo-jeon (“Precious Building”) Hall (also called Kukrobojeon), the Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #14 which acts as the temple’s main hall. Its exterior walls are adorned with a colorful set of Shimu-do, Ox-Herding Murals that describes the practicing process in a mountain.  The stairs leading up to the hall are decorated with some ancient Gwimyeon reliefs.

Geukrakbo-jeon (Precious Building) Hall

The central chapel of Geukrakbo-jeon, located beside Samseong-gak, is Gangwon Province Tangible Cultural Property 14. It has an octagonal roof, three front rooms, two side rooms and also has a special structural pattern and a great variety of design. The canopy over the statue is the octagonal Bogung type of inner structure carved with a dragon. The flower figure window is very interesting.

The interior is elaborately decorated with a triad of statues (Korean Treasure #1721) centered by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on the main altar. This statue is joined on on the left side by Gwaneum-bosal (Avalokitesvara, the Merciful Goddess” or the “Power for Amita-bul”) and Daesaeji-bosal (Mahasthamaprapta, the “Wise Goddess” or “The Bodhisattva of Wisdom”) on the right side.

Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), on the main altar, flanked by Gwaneum-bosal (Avalokitesvara, the Merciful Goddess” or the “Power for Amita-bul”) on the left, and Daesaeji-bosal (Mahasthamaprapta, the “Wise Goddess” or “The Bodhisattva of Wisdom”) on the right.

This triad, created by monk Muyeom (along with the monk Hyeonjin, they were the leading monk sculptors of the mid-17th century), dates back to 1651. The proportionate sizes of the three statues, seemingly simple, yet refined in appearance, speaks to the harmony of these Buddhist statues.

A pair of halls are located to the left rear of the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. The first, Myeongbu-jeon (Judgment Hall), houses, under a beautiful red canopy, a statue of Jijang-bosal (the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).  One of the most popular Bodhisattva shrine hall at a Korean temple, it’s meant to symbolize a “dark court” or “underworld.”  It is one of the more unique looking buildings in a temple because of its gruesome depictions of the afterlife, the uplifting paintings of salvation, the ominous judges and the serenely redemptive Jijang-bosal.

Myeongbu-jeon Hall

The triad (Korean Treasure #1749) on the main altar of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, which is centered by Jijang-bosal was, like the triad inside the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, also made by the monk Muyeom in 1651. Interestingly, various artists also participated in the production in separate procedures of the statues, including the molding, gilding and coloring of the three statues.

Samseong-gak Hall

To the rear of Myeongbu-jeon Hall is the Samseong-gak (“Three Saints”) Hall (also called Chilseong-gak), a shamanic shrine hall. It houses interesting, masterfully executed and vibrantly painted murals including images of of three Korean shaman deities – Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong (“The Lonely Saint”) and Sanshin (“The Mountain Spirit”), the modern Sanshin Taenghwa.  Its budo-won (stupa garden), containing 2 monuments, isdesignated as Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #115.

Murals of the three shaman deities

The temple also participates in the popular Temple Stay program which allows tourists looking to experience Zen meditation and asceticism to spend, for a fee, two or three days living the typical temple life of a Korean Buddhist monk, doing activities such as baru gongyang (communal Buddhist meal service), ceremonial service involving chanting, 108 bows aimed at removing 108 earthly desires, as well as programs of making a lotus lantern and Buddhist rosary.  The experience includes interpretations in Chinese, Japanese and English.  Visitors who donate money to the temple are given a new roof tile to write his wish on.

Rows of roof tiles with wishes written on it

Between Jeokmukdang and Beomjongru is an amusing figure of a turtle shooting water from its mouth. The sweet mineral water from this fountain is said to remove fatigue and provide freshness for those who drink from it.

The fountain

On the opposite side of the Kensington Star Hotel, at Hyangseongsa Temple Site, is a 3-story pagoda (National Treasure 443), an important cultural property and the northernmost extant Shilla Kingdom stone pagoda which demonstrates the traditional style of the Shilla period. Originally a nine-storey stone tower made of granite, only three storeys remain. When it was repaired, workers found a silver case for enshrining the sarira (bone fragments of Buddha, but it was empty.

The 3-storey Stone Pagoda at Hyangseongsa Temple Site

Sinheungsa: 1137 Seoraksan-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon Province, South Korea.  Open 24 hours.  Tel: +82 33-636-8001 and 033-636-7393.  Website: www.sinheungsa.krwww.sokchotour.com. Admission to Seoraksan National Park, where Sinheungsa Temple is located, is 2,500 won. Sinheungsa Temple itself is free.

How to Get There:

By Car: from Seoul, take National Road No. 6 and then National Road No. 44 in Yangpyoung. After passing Hongcheon, Inje and Hankyeryoung Service Area, join National Road No. 7 in Yangyang. Drive for 11.4 kms. to Naksan and soon you will reach Mulchi 3-way junction. Go left, following the sign to Seolakdong. Drive another 10.9 kms. and you will arrive in the parking lot at the entrance of Mt. Seolak.

From Inje, you can also take National Road No. 46 toward Misiryoung, not toward  Hankyeryoung Service Area. If you drive on the road for about 16.2 kms., you will reach the Yongdae 3-way junction. Make a right turn onto Lcal Road No. 466 and go another 13.6 kms. to Misiryoung. There is a 3-way junction with a sign for “Dae-myoung Seolak Leisure Town.“ From there, drive for 4.6 kms. toward Sokcho and you will get to ”Seokcho Plaza Resotel.”  Turn right and you will see “Cheoksan Hotspring” and, a little farther up, the hotel complex of Seolakdong and the parking lot at the entrance of Mt. Seolak.

By Public Transport:  From Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Express Bus Terminal St, Subway line No. 3 or 7, Orange or Dark green line), take the Express bus (available many times a day) to Sokcho or to the Sogongwon (small park) of Mt. Seolak. Local bus No. 7, from downtown Sokcho to Seolakdong, runs every 10 min. and it takes about half an hour. From Sokcho, you’ll need to take a bus (which leaves every ten minutes) bound for Seoraksan National Park. The bus ride takes around 20 to 25 minutes and the bus drops you off at Sogongwon, the entrance of the park.  From here, you’ll need to walk about ten minutes to get to Sinheungsa Temple.

Cebu Blue Ocean Academy: Building 5, EGI Hotel and Resort, M.L. Quezon National Highway, Looc, Maribago, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu 6015, Philippines.  Tel: (032) 888-9868.  E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com.  Website: www.cebublueocean.com.  Baguio City (Benguet) Sister School: Pines International Academy, Romel Mansion, 3 Ignacio Villamor St., Brgy. Lualhati, Baguio City, Benguet, Philippines. Tel: 1 754-255-9818. E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com. Website: www.pinesacademy.com.