Category Archives: Architecture

Adaptive Reuse in Taal (Batangas)

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Villa Tortuga

During a lull in the proceedings of media coverage of Historia, Culinaria, Y Cultura, I took the time to check out two ancestral houses in Taal that have been given relevance through adaptive reuse – Villa Tortuga and Paradores del Castillo.  Adaptive reuse is defined as the repurposing of old buildings or sites for a function other than its original purpose.

Check out “Historia, Culinaria, Y Cultura: A Celebration of Philippine Independence Day Through Food, Fashion & Culture”

Grand stairway of Villa Tortuga

Villa Tortuga, a 150 year old ancestral home, was meticulously restored by eminent fashion designer Angelito “Lito Perez, Perez, a fashion and interior designer and owner of Camp Suki (Quezon City), the country’s pioneer costume rental company which provided period costumes for special events in schools, companies and individuals, fashion and theater productions.

Antique turntable

The name of the establishment was derived from the Spanish word “Tortuga” which translates to “turtle” in English. The house is located along the banks of  the Pansipit River where turtles dwell.

Antique upright piano

The house, with Philippine mahogany floorboards, ventanillas and wooden capiz windows, is furnished with four-poster beds, Art Nouveau mirrors, antique blue-and-white jars, objects d’art, an old upright piano, hardwood dining table, religious icons, heavy, bright crimson brocade drapery, vintage Italian candelabras and assorted old sepia photos in old wooden frames.

Hardwood dining table

From his heritage home, Lito organizes, by prior arrangement, the Villa Tortuga Colonial Experience which features Taal town day tours, small turn-of-the-century-inspired Taaleño meals, served in turn-of-the-century china, for a thematic 5-course lunch or dinner (Php1,500 per person) at the second floor dining area, and nightly accommodations with a colonial ambiance.

Ground floor studio and curio shop

The ground floor antique curio shop and photo studio also houses a collection of rent-to-wear 18th century period costumes (trajez typicos or traditional clothing”) for fun cosplay pictorials at Php250 per costume.

18th century cosplay

Women can dress up as the quintessential Maria Clara while men can appear as an illustrado in an all-white suit and Panama hat or a monk in a brown-hooded or simmering red robe. Their sepia souvenir photo makes one feel you lived during those times. Entrance fee is Php50 (for house visit only).

Paradores del Castillo

On the other hand, Paradores del Castillo, while still adhering to the footprint and Spanish-American-Colonial style of the Filipino bahay-na-bato, was turned into a bed & breakfast facility.  Originally built in the early 1900’s, this ancestral house underwent a restoration that in started in late 2014 and was completed on March 9, 2015.

Located just a few steps away from the Villavicencio Ancestral House (Casa V) and the San Lorenzo Ruiz Steps, their rooms, all airconditioned with cable TV and fridge, have either ensuite or shared baths. Cucina de Jardin, their restaurant, serves Italian, Taaleño, and Ilocano dishes.  The bestsellers are the Taal specialties.  They also have a swimming pool. 

Interior

Villa Tortuga: Calle Marcella M. Agoncillo cor. V. Illustre St., Taal.  Mobile numbers:  (0927) 975-1683 (Lito Perez) and (0917) 824-6900.

Paradores del Castillo: 28 Dr. H. Del Castillo St., Poblacion Zone 14, Taal.  Tel: (043) 740-4060.  Mobile number: (0917) 526-1098 and (0917) 500-6041. Open daily, 7 AM – 10 PM.  E-mail: paradoresdelcastillo@yahoo.com.  Website: www.paradoresdetaal.com.

Balesin Island Club (Polillo, Quezon)

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Balesin Island seen from the air. In the foreground is Toscana Village

I’ve already heard about Balesin Island, off the eastern coast of Luzon, since way back in high school from my classmate Anthony Tordesillas whose father, the late Board of Investment head Edgardo Tordesillas, owned the island.  A chance encounter with Anthony after high school elicited an invitation to visit the island with him but, for reasons I can’t recall, wasn’t able to join him.  After Anthony’s passing in 2012, I thought the opportunity to visit this now members-only, private leisure getaway, now called Balesin Island Club, has finally passed me by.

Map of the island

That is, until lately when my wife Grace and her boss Engr. Loy Ganzon (Chairman of the Board of E. Ganzon, Inc.) were invited to a wedding there as godparents.  Jandy, Cheska, Bryan, Kyle and I gladly joined them.

One of the island’s banyan (balete) trees

The island’s name is a combination of two Filipino words – balete (local name for a banyan tree) and asin (local word for “salt”). Now Alphaland Corporation’s flagship project, Balesin Island Club is a 500-hectare, 5 km. long tropical island paradise with 7.3 kms. of pristine white-sand beaches. Around 10% of the island has been developed to create this award-winning luxury resort.

One of the island’s white sand beaches

The island was titled as a single property in 1926 (although the name of the original owner is unknown).  Immediately before and after World War II, the island was owned by the Pelejo and Jugueta families. In 1958, these families sold the island to the San Pablo Oil Company (now making Minola Cooking Oil) owned by 63 year old German expatriate and naturalized Filipino citizen Werner P. Schetelig.  After Schetelig died in 1962, Felipe “Baby” Ysmael (of Ysmael Steel) then bought the island from San Pablo Oil Company.

In 1967, Edgardo Tordesillas, business executive and amateur pilot, acquired the island from Felipe and set about building tourism facilities on the island, first building cottages (to house his family and guests) and, later, a nipa-roofed clubhouse, swimming pool, tennis courts and a 9-hole golf course. He also planted thousands of trees as well as many kinds of ornamental plants.  In 2011, Roberto V. Ongpin, Chairman of Alphaland Corporation (founded in 2007) acquired the island from the Tordedeillas family (Edgardo died in 2005) and developed Balesin Island Club.

Two offshore islands

Balesin, master-planned by EcoPlan of Miami, Florida, USA to optimize ecological sustainability, was meticulously designed to be in perfect harmony with its natural surroundings.  With the enhancement of everything in its environment uppermost in their mind without scrimping on luxurious, top-notch facilities, Alphaland adapted the “Three Pillar Innovation” – People, Planet and Profit.

Water reservoir

They reduced the amount of waste and ensured sustainable development via the island-wide rain water harvesting (runoff from the 1.5-km. airport runway provides over 100 million liters of water annually), 80% water recycling (for landscaping during the summer), a reverse osmosis plant, on-site eco-friendly transportation, organic farming, and alternative sources of energy.

Organic vegetable farm

The island’s coral reefs were also managed for diving and sustainable fishing. During the 14th United Nations World Tourism Organization Awards, the resort nabbed second-place for Innovation and Excellence in Tourism — the first in the history of the Philippines.

Alphaland Aviation Lounge

Our early morning journey to Balesin began at their cool, quiet and comfortable private terminal lounge at Alphaland Aviation Lounge in Manila, arriving there by 5 AM.

Our 68-seater ATR 72-100 at the hangar

After checking in our luggage and relaxing at the lounge while waiting for our flight, we boarded our 68-seater ATR 72-100 and were soon on our way.

On board and on our way….  L-R: Jandy, Engr. Loy Ganzon (Chairman of the Board of E. Ganzon, Inc.), Ms. Mamel Yap (E.G.I.), Bryan and Kyle

Alphaland operates two of these jets plus one 19-seater British Aerospace Jetstream 32 and two 9-seater Cessna 208B Grand Caravans) and took off for the island just before 8 AM.

Landfall at E.L. Tordesillas Airport

We arrived at the island’s aptly named E.L. Tordesillas Airport by 8:20 AM.  At the Welcome Center, we were briefed by the staff on the island’s facilities and, after picking up our luggage, were brought to our respective villas via airconditioned vans.  We stayed 2 nights at Phuket Village and another night at Costa del Sol. After checking in, we had a late breakfast at Balesin Sala in Balesin Village.

Check out “Resort Review: Balesin Island Club – Phuket Village” and “Resort Review: Balesin Island Club – Costa del Sol”

Welcome Center

The beauty of the island was a world completely unto itself, with seven theme villages patterned and inspired from the most alluring, world-class luxury beach destinations where everything, from the architecture, interior design, landscaping and food, is authentically recreated – Balinese for Bali Village, Greek for Mykonos Village, French (Riviera) for St. Tropez Village, Spanish for Costa del Sol, Filipino at Balesin Village, Italian (Tuscany) at Toscana Village and Thai for Phuket Village.

Check out “Balesin Island Club – Bali Village,” “Balesin Island Club – Costa del Sol,” “Balesin Island Club – Mykonos Village,” “Balesin Island Club – St. Tropez Village,” “Balesin Island Club – Balesin Village” and “Balesin Island Club – Toscana Village”

The Clubhouse

The Clubhouse has a reception area, a cigar lounge where you can light up a fine cigar (Tabacalera Cigar Divan),  gaming room (billiards, table tennis, a Wii console), a 600 sq.m. function area, a fully equipped conference room (for large gatherings and private meetings), seven 2-bedroom unit Clubhouse Suites, KTV rooms (Mike’s and Rannie’s), souvenir shop, music lounge, view deck, veranda, library, mahjong and poker room, internet gaming/business center, salon and barber shop, children’s indoor playroom, screening room, locker rooms, boutique and medical clinic.

The Clubhouse Lounge

It also has a number of bars (Lobby Bar, Coral Bar) and restaurants – Sakura Japanese Restaurant  (for sushi and teppanyaki dishes), the Dining Room, Balesin Dining Room and Han Gang Restaurant plus private dining rooms (Michelle’s and Anna’s).

Reception Area at Clubhouse

Outside are exquisitely designed swimming pools  (adult and kiddie) and 3 whirlpools, bars and private beach cabanas.    The Aquatic Sports Center offers waterskiing, kayaking, windsurfing, snorkeling, wakeboarding, scuba diving, stand-up paddle boarding, boat rentals, deep sea fishing, Hobie Cat sailing, Frisbees, volleyball and paraw sailing.

The clubhouse’s swimming pool

Docked offshore for sunset cruises is Balesin’s new super yacht, the M/Y Obsessions, a sleek, 130-foot, aluminum-hull  vessel built by Heesen Yachts in the Netherlands.  Its decadent interiors were designed by Ann Van Der Kamp and Diaship, using sumptuous materials from Gianni Versace’s luxury Italian label.

The M/Y Obsessions

On our second day, after breakfast Jandy and I made a tour around the island. Aside from the airconditioned vans, jeepneys and buses, the resort also uses electric golf carts to go around the island to reduce its carbon footprints.

One of the jeepneys that transports guest around the island

We visited the Ifugao Village where an entire community of Ifugao woodcarvers lived.  The furniture on the island, both modern and traditional, was made by them and they also produce art pieces, sculpture as well as souvenir items for sale to visitors.

Jandy in front of the Ifugao Camp

We also visited the Sports Center with its fully-equipped gym, badminton courts, basketball court, tennis courts, martial arts studio, airsoft target shooting range, soccer field, running track, rock climbing wall, table tennis and refreshment bars.

Sports Center

A fenced part of the jungle houses tactical formations for paintball and war games, a stable for Segways, and Knockerballs. There’s also horse riding stables, an archery range, golf driving range and putting green.

Soccer Field

The island is also home to the Aegle Wellness Center, a state-of-the-art integrative health & wellness center nominated as Medi-Spa of the Year in the 2017 Asia Spa Awards.  It is the only place in the Philippines, and among the few in Asia, that offers thalassotherapy, a medical treatment for weight loss and detoxification that makes use of the components of seawater.

Pony Paddock

On our third day, scheduled afternoon tour, this time via an airconditioned bus, took us around the island, visiting each of the aforementioned 7 themed villages.

The Greek-themed Mykonos Village

Toscana Village

The French Riviera-inspired St. Tropez

Balesin Village

We also visited the Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farm where seafood and organic produce, for the restaurants, are cultivated at specially made fish pens and greenhouses, respectively.

Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farms

Bryan, Kyle and Cheska at the Family Picnic Grove and Organic Farms

At the Aviary (a joint undertaking of Balesin Island Club and the Tobiano family), we had intimate encounters with some exotic birds.

The Aviary

These include blue and gold macaw (Ara ararauna), African grey parrot (Psittacus erithacus), Victoria crown pigeon (Goura victoria), scarlet macao (Ara macao), Indian blue peacock (Pavo cristatus), among others.

The author with a pigeon

It is also home to a pair of African spurred tortoises (Centrochelys sulcata) and rabbits.

The open-air chapel

The open-aired Chapel across the latter, with amphitheater-like seating and wooden altar, was where the wedding took place.  We also heard mass here.

The rustic chapel interior

The wedding reception was held at The Salon, the elegant function hall which accommodates up to 350 guests for sit-down banquets, at the majestic Balesin Royal Villa, facing Lamon Bay and its gorgeous sunset.  It also has an a bar facility, a 10-person elevator for easy access to the upper and lower floors from

Balesin Royal Villa

The Salon, state-of-the-art karaoke room as well as billiard and foosball tables.  The ten 120 sq.m. Royal suites located on the ground floor, each have a terrace providing direct access to the 2 swimming pools (with jet bubblers and 4 sunning decks) and private, white-sand beach.

Entrance to Balesin Royal Villas

The four 317 sq.m. Maharlika suites, on the upper level, have their own living area, terrace, and outdoor jacuzzi. All Balesin Royal Villa suites have magnificent views of the sea, and accommodate up to 4 people each.

Fish Fun

As we just stayed on the island for three days, we didn’t get to experience all the different cuisine the island had to offer but we did get to try breakfast at Balesin Sala (Balesin Village) and the Main Clubhouse (the centerpiece of the resort together with the state-of-the-art wellness facility), Spanish cuisine for lunch at Casa Grande (Costa del Sol) and, for dinner, Thai cuisine at Sawadee (Phuket Village) and Japanese cuisine at Sakura (Main Clubhouse).

Balesin Sports Bar

Bryan playing billiards at the Sports Bar

Sakura, the club’s most popular restaurant, is located inside the main clubhouse.  Led by chef Edo-san, it houses a teppanyaki counter and sushi bar, and serves everything from soba to tempura to prime steak.  Favorites include the much sought-after popped rice starter with its poetic presentation, the Edo-san maki of eel, cream cheese, avocado, tobiko and topped with baked crab, the spider roll, sea bass with miso, beef usuyaki, and the beef and seafood teppanyaki with fried rice.

Balesin Island Club: Brgy. Balesin, Polillo 4339, Quezon.

Metro Manila Corporate Office: Alphaland Corporation, Alphaland Makati Place, 7232 Ayala Ave. Extn., 1209 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: +63.2.5337.2031 and +63.2.5337.2055 loc 271 to 274 (Reservations). Fax: +63.2.5338.1231,  E-mail: info@alphaland.com.ph. Website: www.balesin.com.

Caleruega Retreat Center (Nasugbu, Batangas)

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Dominicum (Caleruega Retreat Center)

After a filling lunch at Josephine’s Restaurant in Tagaytay City, Mark, Jandy, Vicky, Marc, Bryan and I opted to go on a sightseeing trip.  Back on Mark’s Starex van, we traveled a further 15.7 kms. (25 mins.) to the town of Nasugbu, in the adjoining province of Batangas, where we were to visit the much hyped up retreat center and wedding venue called Caleruega. Designed by Arch. Yolanda D. Reyes (Dean of UST’s College of Architecture) and built in 1995, Caleruega was set up as a venue for retreats and seminars of the Dominican institutions.

Mark (center) and Vicky (right) exploring the grounds

 

The much-publicized wedding of Christopher de Leon and Sandy Andolong gave Caleruega its early exposure and, today, it is a lovely setting for an out of town wedding for brides and grooms.  Even movies and television ads producers have taken notice.

United Architects of the Philippines (UAP) 1996 Design Award in Architecture

From the highway, we turned into of a long, rough, bumpy and isolated road, at the end of which is the sprawling, 8-hectare property owned by the Dominican Fathers. We parked our van just outside.  Past brick-paved rotunda and fountain is the Dominicum (which we mistook to be a chapel), the receiving hall for visitors and those having their retreats at the place.

Perched atop an elevation with a 21 steps leading up to it, its two level Moorish and Spanish-style facade has a segmental arched main entrance flanked by square pilasters and niches with statues of Thomas Aquinas and Catherine of Sienna, both doctors of the church, at the ground level.

Stairway leading up to the Dominicum

The main entrance is topped, at the second level, by a semicircular arched window with the stained glass image of St. Dominic, founder of the Dominican order.  This window is flanked by smaller semicircular arched windows with stained glass images of his father’s coat-of-arms on the left and his mother’s coat-of-arms on the right.

Stained glass window depicting St. Dominic

The four square pilasters (two reaching up to the pediment) are topped by pineapple (probably hinting at its proximity to Tagaytay)-shaped finials.  The undulating pediment has a bell-gable (espadana) at the center.

Grand stairway

Inside is a grand, elegantly curving staircase (unfortunately, off limits to visitors), a gift house (where one can buy souvenir shirts, trinkets and religious items) on the left, a mess hall on the right and a corridor that leads to the gardens.

Mess hall

From the Dominicum, pathways, following the natural curves and slope of the hill, lead us into a garden bursting with color and life. It was easy to fall in love with the serenity and beauty of this gorgeous retreat sanctuary with its abundant and colorful varieties of flowers, lush plants and trees and walking paths.

In the comforting company of nature, one can sit on solitary park benches, found in niches, and gaze at the 180-degree view of cobalt-blue skies,  the rolling, verdant hills and mountains and the plains. Caleruega’s tag line, “Closer to Nature, Closer to God,” is a fitting description of this nourishing sanctuary.

Lining the pathway are functional dormitories, cottages and overnight guests plus an interesting gazekubo, a conference hall that mixes the elements of a gazebo and a bahay kubo, with adobe stone walls roof made with once brown pawid (now green with small plant growth).

Gazekubo

The many signs and symbols of the Dominicans were abundantly integrated into the architecture.  The motif of the Dominican star (Joanna of Aza, St. Dominic’s mother, saw a star on her son’s forehead, a sign that he would eventually spread light to the world), as well as the sun, can be consistently seen in the refreshing fountain on the driveway, capiz windows, grilles and even inside cottages in the retreat center.

There were also viewing decks where one can witness the stunning show and the magical moment of the sun setting between the two rugged peaks of Batulao (incidentally, the name Batulao is derived from the words bato, meaning “stone,” and “ilaw or “light”), creating the perfect mood for love. St. Dominic’s Point, another beautiful vantage point, has a statue of St. Dominic, his feet lined with a star formation of fuchsia plants.  Rosary Lane, framed by the rolling hills of Mt. Batulao, has a statue of the Mother and Child sitting in prayer, each clutching a rosary.

At the peak was the famed, stunning and quaint Transfiguration Chapel with its Moorish-style facade done in red brick and painted concrete. When we arrived, a wedding was ongoing inside the chapel.  Patterned after the original Caleruega Chapel in Spain, it can fit only 150 people.  Its door has a brass sculpture of seven grapevines (symbolizing the Seven Sacraments).

Transfiguration Chapel

The chapel’s interior, finished with varnished wood and painted concrete, has a lectern with Biblical images of the mustard seed while the tabernacle has a burning bush design.  The altar, made from a carved tree trunk, signifies the Stem of Jesse in the Book of Isaiah. The birds, at the communion table, symbolize God’s providence.

The chapel interior with its centerpiece stained glass window featuring the Transfiguration – Moses on the left, Jesus at center and the prophet Elijah at the right

The stained glass windows of the chapel, giving a very soft and warm glow to the interior (an atmosphere conducive for prayers and reflections), were impressive. On the facade is the seal of the Dominican Province of the Philippines. Inside is the centerpiece of the church floor to ceiling stained glass of the figures of Transfiguration (Jesus, Moses and Elijah).

The author at the Transfiguration Chapel

In front of the chapel is “Thy Will Be Done,” a metal sculpture with arms outstretched done by Baguio City artist Benhur Villanueva. Surrounding the chapel are carefully selected plants and trees (the planted pine trees even mimic the Mediterranean setting where St. Dominic was born in 1170 in Caleruega in Old Castile).

Thy Will Be Done (Benhur Villanueva)

Caleruega is a lovely, quiet and soothing addition to the 39 Catholic houses (retreat houses, formation houses, seminaries and contemplative groups) tucked along Tagaytay Ridge as well as over a dozen Christian lay communities and prayer houses.

Caleruega Retreat Center: Bgry. Kaylaway, Batulao, Nasugbu, Batangas.  Mobile number: (0921) 270-9890 and (0921) 830-4226.  E-mail: caleruega_philippines@yahoo.com. Open daily, 8 AM – 12 noon and 1 – 5 PM. A mass is held every Sunday at 11 AM.

How to Get There:
Coming from Tagaytay City, board a Nasugbu bound bus and ask the driver to drop you off at Evercrest where there’s a tricycle station.  Here, you can hire a tricycle for a two-way trip to Caleruega.

Po Lin Monastery (Lantau Island, Hong Kong)

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The author at the courtyard of Po Lin Monastery

After our visit to the Tian Tan Buddha (Big Buddha), we proceeded to the nearby Po Lin Monastery, a Buddhist monastery located on level Ngong Ping Plateau, between the lush, green Lantau Peak and Lei Nak Peak.  The wooden bracelets sold near the Big Buddha statue (an extension of the monastery) are made at Po Lin (translated as “precious lotus”).

Check out “Tian Tan Buddha“

View of Po Lin Monastery from Tian Tan Buddha

Founded in 1906 by three monks visiting from Jiangsu Province on the Chinese mainland, it was initially known simply as “The Big Hut” (大茅蓬 Tai Mao Pung) but was renamed to its present name in 1924.

In 1918, three nuns ordained at this monastery established a private nunnery, dedicated to Guanyin (the Goddess of Mercy), called Chi Chuk Lam (紫竹林) on Lantau’s Lower Keung Hill (下羌山). In the 1950s, there were about 20 jushi and nuns residing there but, today, only an elderly abbess remains. On June 2013, the site was inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Hall of the Heavenly Kings

Hall of the Heavenly Kings

We spent some time admiring the architecture of the structures of this orderly Buddhist monastery complex which houses many Buddhist scriptures.

Kyle, Jandy and Cheska at the courtyard of Po Lin Monastery

Its many halls (Da Xiong Bao Dian, the Maitreya Hall, the Hall of Ti-tsang Bodhisattva, the Weituo Hall, the Banruo Hall, the Sutra-Collection Hall) and prominent architectural buildings and structures sit tightly on the north-eastern to south-western axis, overlooking the South China Sea. On the south side of the axis are the Po Lin Hall and the facility for ceremonial and religious activities.

Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda.  On the upper level is the Hall of Great Hero while on the lower level is the Hall of Arhats

San Men (Mountain Gate) leads up to the Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda, the Main Shrine Hall of Buddha, and the Grand Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas.  In symmetrical arrangements on the flanks are the Bell Tower (houses a 1,000 kg. bronze bell) and the Drum Tower, the Hall of Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva, the Meditation Hall, the Dining Hall and the Sangha Hall.

Hall of Great Hero (off limits to visitors)

These edifices enclose and create roomy space and airy courtyards. The Hall of Ti-tsang Bodhisattva houses an approximately 200 kg. (441 lb.) bronze statue of Ti-tsang Bodhisattva.

Hall of Arhats

Hall of Arhats

In its effort in spreading Buddhism and in moving forward towards globalization, the monastery has changed its architectural concept from local southern China to that of Beijing palatial design.  The seven-span Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda, completed in 1970, adopted the architectural design of the Ming and Qing’s Dynasty palaces.

Its double-eaved gable roof, made of yellow-glazed tiles, has a ridge decorated with zoomorphic ornaments, dragons, phoenixes and animal patterns. Coiled granite dragons, carved in the Minnan style, can be seen on the front and the back of the hall.

Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas

On the other hand, the incredibly ornate Grand Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas, which went on the drawing board in 2000 and was completed in 2014, adopted the classical architectural concepts of the Song Dynasty.

Koi Pond

Covering an area of more than 6,000 sq. m., it now enshrines more than 100 statues and has a shrine hall, an exhibition hall, a meditation hall, an abbot’s chamber, a scripture library and other multi-functional facilities.

Bell Tower

The Great Hall of Treasure (Da Xiong Bao Diane) enshrines three bronze statues of the Buddha (Sakyamuni, Dipamkarara and Maitreya, representing his past, present and future lives). Many visitors here join in praying and giving offerings at the temple.

Drum Tower

Interior of Drum Tower

For those who fancy typical, good quality vegetarian cuisine, the monastery also has a vegetarian kitchen where a multi-course lunch can cost you up to HK$138.  Dishes are served at the dining hall and at the Fat Ho Memorial Hall. Opposite the dining hall, snacks such as salty dimsum, steamed cakes, spring water bean curd, glutinous rice dumplings with mango filling and noodles are sold.

Fat Ho Memorial Hall

Near the giant Tian Tan Buddha and the monastery is the Ngong Ping Village and Ngong Ping 360, a gondola lift running between Tung Chung and Ngong Ping.

Check out “Ngong Ping 360 and Ngong Ping Village“

Deli Vegetarian Cafe

Po Lin Monastery: Ngong Ping, Lantau Island, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2985 5248.  Fax: +852 2985 5600.  E-mail: info@plm.org.hk.  Website: www.plm.org.hk.  Open daily, 8AM to 6PM. The Vegetarian Kitchen is open daily from 11:30AM to 4:30 PM  (7 PM on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays).

Hong Kong Cultural Centre (Hong Kong)

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Hong Kong Cultural Center

The Hong Kong Cultural Centre (Chinese: 香港文化中心), a multipurpose performance facility, is one of the most iconic cultural buildings in the city.  Together with the adjacent historic historic Clock Tower,  they are tourist favorites for grabbing photos of Victoria Harbor.

The center is located on the southwestern tip of Tsim Sha Tsui, on the former location of the Kowloon Station of the Kowloon-Canton Railway. Adjacent to the centre on the west is the Tsim Sha Tsui Ferry Pier of the Star Ferry, while to the east are the Hong Kong Space Museum and Hong Kong Museum of Art.

Check out “Hong Kong Space Museum“

Built and operated by the former Urban Council , its construction was started in 1986 and the venue was officially opened on November 8, 1989, in a ceremony officiated by Charles, Prince of Wales and Princess Diana who unveiled a commemorative plaque.

Auditoria Building

The center opened with the International Celebration of the Arts, a special program that ran from November 5 to December 6.  The program showcased Hong Kong musicians, Kunju opera, Cantonese music and performances by a range of international artists including the Cologne Opera, the Alban Berg Quartett, Sadao Watanabe, and the first Hong Kong appearance of guitarist John Williams.

Studio Theatre

Since 2000, it has been administered by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department of the Hong Kong Government.  Today, this curved and concave shaped building is the go-to venue for a wide variety of cultural performances such as international touring theatre shows, world-class concerts, opera and performances. The trademark beige bricks of the building also make it a popular background for wedding photo shoots.

The 2,019-seat Concert Hall, the home of the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, is an oval two-tiered auditorium.  The acoustics in the Concert Hall are often praised for elevating any musical performances thanks to its high quality oak panels and ceiling.

It includes an adjustable acoustic canopy and curtains and houses an 8,000-pipe, 93-stop pipe organ, the largest mechanical tracker action organ in Asia.  Built by Austrian firm Rieger Orgelbau at the cost of $10 million, it was installed from August to November in 1989.  It has been recorded by Christopher Herrick on Organ Fireworks VIII.

The Grand Theatre, designed for large scale opera, ballet, and musicals, has 1,734 seats in three tiers. The annual Hong Kong Film Award presentation ceremony also takes place there. The Studio Theatre, with 300 to 496 seats (depending upon the set-up), can accommodate smaller-scale theatre and performance works.  The center also has an Exhibition Gallery, 4 foyer exhibition areas and 11 rehearsal and practice rooms.

Hong Kong Cultural Centre: L5, Auditoria Building, 10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2734 2009. Website: www.lcsd.gov.hk.

How to Get There: The centre is adjacent to the Star Ferry Pier (you can also take the Star Ferry from Central or Wan Chai to Tsim Sha Tsui and walk to the centre) and the Star Ferry bus terminus served by Kowloon Motor Bus. It is also within walking distance to Tsim Sha Tsui Station (Exit E) and East Tsim Sha Tsui Station (Exit L6 or J), which serve the Tsuen Wan Line and West Rail Line respectively.

 

Meiji Jingu Shrine (Tokyo, Japan)

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The Meiji Jingu Shrine

As we delved deeper into Yoyogi Park, we soon came across the entrance to the Meiji Shrine. Located directly in front of the entrance to the shrine was the temizuya (font), a cleansing station where visitors used wooden ladles to spiritually cleanse themselves by pouring water over their hands (left before right) and rinse mouths with their left hand.

The temizuya (hand wash pavilion)

The Meiji Shrine (明治神宮 Meiji Jingū), the largest and one of the Japan’s most popular Shinto shrines, is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji (the shrine, however, does not contain the emperor’s grave, which is located at Fushimi-momoyama, south of Kyoto) and his wife and consort, Empress Shōken.

Torii (Japanese gate) at the entrance of the Meiji Jingu Shrine.  Devotees usually bow once here upon entering and exiting the shrine.

After the emperor’s death in 1912, the Japanese Diet passed a resolution to commemorate his role in the Meiji Restoration, choosing an iris garden, in an area of Tokyo where Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken had been known to visit, as the building’s location. The building of the shrine, a national project, mobilized youth groups and other civic associations from throughout Japan, who contributed labor and funding. In 1915, construction began under Itō Chūta.

The Minami-Shinmon Gate

The shrine, built in the traditional nagare-zukuri style, primarily uses Japanese cypress and copper. On November 1, 1920, eight years after the passing of the emperor and six years after the passing of the empress, it was formally dedicated and completed in 1921.  Its grounds were officially finished by 1926. Until 1946, the Meiji Shrine was officially designated one of the Kanpei-taisha (官幣大社), meaning that it stood in the first rank of government supported shrines.

The author at Minami-Shinmon Gate

During the Tokyo air raids of World War II, the original building was destroyed and the present iteration of the shrine was funded through a public fund raising effort and completed in October 1958. The shrine has been visited by numerous foreign politicians, including U.S. Pres. George W. Bush, U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, and German Foreign Minister Guido Westerwelle.

Kyle, Grace and Jandy in front of the Honden (Main Hall)

The entrance to the shrine complex, marked by a massive torii gate (one of the largest in Japan) in the Myojin style, constructed from a more than 1,500 year old hinoki (Japanese cypress from Taiwan), leads through the Jingu Bashi bridge. Upon entry into the shrine grounds, the sights and sounds of the busy city are replaced by a tranquil forest and Meiji Jingu’s buildings, at the middle of the forest, that have an air of tranquility distinct from the surrounding city.

A lady worshiper praying at the Main Hall. In front of her is an offertory box where coins are dropped

Visitors to the shrine can take part in typical Shinto activities – making offerings at the main hall, buying charms and amulets, writing out one’s wish on an ema (piece of paper) and tying them on a prayer wall, etc. On the first days of the New Year, Japanese usually visit a Shinto shrine to prepare for the Hatsumōde (初詣), the year’s first prayers, and the shrine is the most popular location in Tokyo for this, regularly welcoming more than three million visitors. During the rest of the year, traditional Shinto weddings can often be seen taking place there.

Visitors shopping for omamori (lucky charms, talismans and amulets for all kinds of occasions) or ofuda (emblems bearing the name of the shrine or enshrined deities distributed by the shrine)

The shrine itself is composed of two major areas – the Naien and the Gaien. The Naien, the inner precinct, is centered on the shrine buildings, dating from 1958. The buildings, all great example of Japanese Shinto architecture, are made from Japanese cypress wood from the Kiso region of Nagano (regarded as the best in Japan) with green cooper plates used for the roofs.

Interior of the main hall

It consists of the honden (The Main Hall, the main shrine building proper and the innermost sanctuary of the shrine), noritoden (The Prayer Recital Hall where Shinto liturgy is recited), naihaiden (The Inner Shrine Hall), gehaiden (The Outer Shrine Hall), shinsenjo (the consecrated kitchen for the preparation of the food offerings) and shinko (The Treasure House).

A prayer wall where ema are hung on hooks. An ema is a wooden tablet, obtained at the juyosho (amulet offices), where wishes are written.  There are two main types of ema – Kigan-Ema (bear the crest of the shrine on their front and the word Kigan on their back) and the Eto-Ema (depicting this year’s Eto  or zodiac).

The Treasure House, at the northern end of the shrine grounds, was built in the Azekurazukuri style one year after the shrine was opened.  It displays many interesting personal belongings of the Emperor and Empress, including the carriage which the emperor rode to the formal declaration of the Meiji Constitution in 1889. The Museum Annex Building, just to the east of the main shrine buildings, displays temporary exhibitions.

Kaguraden (Hall of Shinto Music and Dance). Goshuin (Meiji Jingu Memorial Seal), to remind you of your visit to Meiji Jingu,  are stamped and hand-painted here.

The quite beautiful, simple and classic Minami-shin Mon, the main shrine gate to the inner precinct, was built in 1921.  Made entirely of Japanese cypress, it has a copper plate roof. You reach it upon passing the final myojin torii gate. This gate and one of the amulet offices (shukueisha) were the only constructions in Meiji Shrine not destroyed by the World War II raids.

The reception and registration area of the Kaguraden Hall

The Kaguraden (Hall of Shinto Music and Dance), built to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the establishment of Meiji Jingu, was started in 1990 and completed in October 1993. This 3-storey building (one floor is above the ground and the other two floors below ground level) follows the traditional Irimoya-Nagarezukuri architectural style The front entrance, with the reception and registration area, is slightly below ground level. One flight of stairs leads down, and another flight of stairs leads up to the waiting area and the hall for ceremonies.

The Gaien, the outer precinct, includes the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery (housing a collection of 80 large murals illustrative of the events in the lives of the Emperor and his consort); a variety of sports facilities, including the National Stadium (Meiji Jingu Gaien Stadium and later, since 1956, on the same site, Tokyo Olympic Stadium); the Meiji Kinenkan (Meiji Memorial Hall).  The latter, originally used for governmental meetings (including discussions surrounding the drafting of the Meiji Constitution in the late 19th century), is now used for Shinto weddings as well as meeting rooms for rent and restaurants services.

The Meiji-jingu Gyoen (Inner Garden), a large area of the southern section of the shrine grounds, becomes particularly popular during the middle of June when the beautiful irises here are in bloom. Kiyomasa’s Well, a small well located within the garden visited by the Emperor and Empress while they were alive, was named after a military commander who dug it around 400 years ago. The well has become a popular spiritual “power spot.”

Meiji Shrine: 1-1, Kamizono-chō, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0053.  Open daily, from sunrise to sunset.  Admission to the shrine precinct is free. The Inner Garden, open from 9 AM to 5 PM, requires an entrance fee of JP¥500 to enter.

How to Get There: From JR Tokyo Station, get on the Yamanote Line and get off at the busy Harajuku Station on the JR Yamanote Line or Meiji-jingu-mae Station on the Chiyoda and Fukutoshin Subway Lines. It is about a 25 minute train ride. The approach to Meiji Shrine starts a few steps from Harajuku Station.  The main complex of shrine buildings is a 10-min. walk from both the southern entrance near Harajuku Station and the northern entrance near Yoyogi Station.

The Kabuki-sa (Tokyo, Japan)

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Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theater)

The fifth building on the site, it was first built as a wooden structure in 1889 but this was destroyed by an electrical fire on October 30, 1921.  Reconstruction began in 1922 but had not been completed when it again burned down during the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake.

Rebuilding was finally completed in 1924. Destroyed once again by the 1945 Allied bombing during World War II, the theater was restored in 1950, preserving the style of 1924 reconstruction.  It was, until recently, one of Tokyo’s more dramatic and traditional buildings.

The author

In the spring of 2010, the 1950 structure was demolished, due to concerns over the building’s ability to survive earthquakes as well as accessibility issues, and rebuilt over the ensuing three years. The new theater complex was opened on March 28, 2013 and staged its first performances on April 2, 2013.

Grace and Jandy

The new structure, designed by Japanese architect  Kengo Kuma (whose works include Tokyo’s Suntory Museum of Art and the Nezu Museum), kept the style of the 1924 structure which was in the Wafu-Momoyama style (with its signature extravagant façade), an ornate Baroque Japanese Revivalist style meant to evoke the architectural details of Japanese castles as well as temples of pre-Edo period.

The Kabuki-sa Tower looming over the theater facade

While the theater still looks much the same as in 1924, it now has the attached 29-floor Kabukiza Tower office block looming over it. The office building’s fifth floor gallery displays Kabuki costumes and props that have been used in actual performances as well as other culture-related exhibitions.

The theater’s ticket booth

The theater, consisting of three floors, has 1,808 seats, three height-adjustable stages, of varying sizes, as well as an even larger height-adjustable stage and a new revolving stage. Performances are held most days of the month.  If you aren’t sure about committing to an entire show, you can purchase single-act tickets (Hitomaku-mi) for  ¥1,000-¥2,000.

Kabukiza Theater: 4 Chome-12-15 Ginza, Chūō, Tokyo 104-0061, Japan. Tel: 03-3545-6800.  Website: www.kabuki-bito.jp.

How to Get There: The theater is a short walk from Higashi-Ginza Station Exit 3 on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line or the Toei Subway Asakusa Line.

Church of Our Lady of the Purification (Binmaley, Pangasinan)

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Church of Our Lady of Purification

This church, once the largest church in the province during the latter part of the 19th century, was first constructed in the 16th century but burned down in 1745. The succeeding brick church, built towards the west of the former, was begun by Fr. Jose Salvador in 1747 finished by Fr. Francisco Barroso, OP, in 1754.

The right side of the church with some of the original brick facing now exposed

During World War II, the church was heavily damaged (only the walls and the partly damaged bell tower were left after shelling by American warships from January 7-9, 1945) and later rebuilt.

The 5-storey bell tower on the church’s right

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

This church’s 3-level, relatively simple Baroque brick (now plastered over) façade has  semicircular arched main entrance, flanked by semicircular arched windows, at the first level; and a semicircular arched statued niche, flanked by semicircular arched windows, at the second level.

On display in front of the church is a huge 1880 bell that bears the logo Fundicion de Metales de Santos Supangco.

The segmental pediment, separated from the second level by 3 rows of cornices, has a recessed octagonal window (above which is a cornice and a centrally located seal in the tympanum) flanked by smaller, recessed octagonal windows. The huge scrolls flowing down from the base of the pediment are typical of the Italian Baroque style.

The 1880 church bell on display outside the church

The 5-storey, square bell tower, on the church’s right, has blind semicircular arched recesses (canopied with triangular segments), at the the first 3 storeys, and semicircular arched open windows at the receding upper levels.  It has 3 bells. One bell, weighing 4,130 pounds and cast in 1804, was once of the three biggest bells in the Philippines.

The main altar and retablo

The church measures 94 m. long and 16.8 m. wide. Juan Fuentes y Yepes, the Bishop of Nueva Segovia, is buried here.  The 35 m. long  transept has a high dome with 4 windows and is supported by 8 elegant columns with Composite capitals. The interior also houses 5 exquisite altars.

The church’s dome

Church of Our Lady of the Purification: Urdaneta Junction, Dagupan–Binmaley Road, Poblacion, Binmaley 2417. Tel: (075) 540-0047.  Feast of Our Lady of Purification: February 2.

How to Get There: Binmaley is located 223 kms. from Manila.

National Museum of Anthropology (Manila)

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National Museum of Anthropology

I first visited the National Museum of Anthropology (Filipino: Pambansang Museo ng Antropolohiya), a component museum of the National Museum of the Philippines,  when it was formerly known as the Museum of the Filipino People (Filipino: Museo ng Lahing Filipino) in March 2002.  Fifteen years later, I brought now along my whole family to see its Ethnological and Archaeological exhibitions.

Check out “Museum of the Filipino People”

The museums Neo-Classical facade

Housed in the impressive, Neo-Classic-influenced, 5-storey former Department of Commerce and Department of Finance Building, this museum was the second building pledged (1990s) to the National Museum.  As a cultural center, it takes the lead in the study and preservation of the nation’s rich artistic, historical and cultural heritage in the reconstruction and rebuilding of our nation’s past.

Historical plaque

Built in 1940 on the same Federal architectural style concept of American architect and Manila and Baguio City planner Daniel H. Burnham, its construction was implemented by Arch. Antonio Toledo of the Bureau of Public Works who was responsible for the construction of Manila government structures (including the Manila City Hall, Bureau of Customs and Department of Tourism Building) under the American colonial regime.

Jandy in front of the Ifugao house within the courtyard

When World War II broke out on December 7, 1941, the building was barely finished and, during the Liberation of Manila, the building, because of its strategic location, became a Japanese stronghold that was intensely bombarded by the Americans.  On March 3, 1945, its recapture actually marked the end of the Battle of Manila.

Marble Hall

After the war, the trapezoidal building was rebuilt by the company of A.M. Oreta and, during the centennial celebration of Philippine independence half a century later, the building was refurbished and inaugurated to house the Museum of the Filipino People. At the open courtyard is an actual Ifugao House (Fhaley Ad Henenga) from Mayoyao presented by Petron Corporation.

Stairway

Since the creation of the National Museum of the Philippines, the Anthropology Division has started collecting ethnographic artifacts. Anthropologist Dr. Henry Otley Beyer began collecting cultural materials from the different peoples of the Philippines ranging from baskets, weapons, textiles, and wooden objects to various religious, economic and agricultural tools and implements, musical instruments and personal ornaments and adornments. During the World War II, these artifacts were distributed to friends and colleagues for safekeeping and, several years after the war, Dr. Beyer began to retrieve all these materials, finding most to be intact and in good condition except for some that were badly damaged.

My family (at extreme left, L-R: Kyle, Jandy, Grace, Cheska and Bryan) at one of the exhibition galleries

Ground Floor

  • Office of the Exhibition, Editorial, and Media Production Services Division
  • Office of the Museum Foundation of the Philippines
  • Office of the Archaeology Division
  • Office of the Ethnology Division
  • Office of the Maritime and Underwater Cultural Heritage Division
  • National Museum Library

Second Floor

  • Marble Hall- serves as the lobby of the museum
  • The San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit
  • Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade

Third Floor

  • Lantaka: Of War and Peace – inaugurated in 2015
  • Manlilikha ng Bayan Hall (National Living Treasure) – inaugurated last June 1, 2016
  • Lumad: Mindanao – inaugurated last December 12, 2015
  • Faith, Tradition and Place: Bangsamoro Art from the National Ethnographic Collection – inaugurated last October 2014
  • Kaban ng Lahi (Archaeological Treasures)

NOTE: On October 20, 2018, just about a year after my visit, the “Biyay: Traditional Ecological Knowledge among Philippine Negrito Communities” exhibit was opened in the third floor, the first exhibition, of this scale and depth, on the Negritos, the least understood Philippine ethnolinguistic group. Biyay is the Ayta term for “life.”

Fourth Floor

  • Reception Hall (Changing Gallery)
  • Rice, Biodiversity and Climate Change – inaugurated last December 17, 2013
  • Hibla ng Lahing Filipino: The Artistry of Philippine Textiles – inaugurated last May 18, 2012
  • Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines – inaugurated in 2013
  • Entwined Spheres: Mats and Baskets as Containers, Costumes and Conveyors – inaugurated in 2017
  • Office of the Museum Services Division

Fifth Floor

  • National Ethnographic Collection Repositories

A hagabi (rich mans bench)

Through the years, the ethnographic collection of the Anthropology Division continues to be augmented through field collection, purchase and donation. Presently, there are about ten thousand specimens on display in 15 galleries and in storage.

Check out “The San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit,” “Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade,” “Manlilikha ng Bayan Hall (National Living Treasure),” “Lumad: Mindanao,” “Faith, Tradition and Place: Bangsamoro Art from the National Ethnographic Collection,” “Kaban ng Lahi: Archaeological Treasures,” “Rice, Biodiversity and Climate Change,” “Hibla ng Lahing Filipino: The Artistry of Philippine Textiles,” “Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines,”“Lantaka: Of War and Peace,” “Entwined Spheres: Mats and Baskets as Containers, Costumes and Conveyors.”

 The ethnographic collection, systematically arranged according to groups and classified in terms of functions, is kept in storage where the temperature of the room is maintained through a 24-hour airconditioning system that helps preserve the physical condition of the specimens, and prolongs the lifespan of the specimens. Textile specimens are stored inside cabinets with series of drawers while wooden objects, baskets, ceramic and metal crafts are wrapped in acid-free paper, and stored in steel cabinets with series of panels.

National Museum of Anthropology: Agrifina Circle (or Teodoro Valencia Circle, adjacent to the National Museum of Fine Arts building),Padre Burgos Drive, Rizal Park, Ermita, Manila. Tel: (02) 8528-4912 (02) 8527-1232 (Ethnology Division) and (02) 8527-0278. E-mail: nationalmuseumph@gmail.com and nationalmuseumph.anthropology@gmail.com. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission is free.

Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine (Dimiao, Bohol)

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Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine

Part of the Panglao Bluewater Resort-sponsored CountrysideTour

One of the churches severely damaged during the October 15, 2013 earthquake was the Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine in Dimiao.  The ceiling of the church received heavy cracks, the walls of both the left and right wings of the transept cracked open, and large portions of the outer stone finishes in various areas of the church exterior fell down.

As of early 2014, the structure, though still standing, was deemed unsafe to enter. Only priests and church convent authorities were allowed to enter the church. As of this writing, the church is being repaired, with scaffolding installed throughout the exterior and interior. We were allowed to enter the church.

The painted ceiling

 

The town’s present magnificent church, one of the oldest in the province, was built from 1800 to 1815 by Fr. Enrique de Santo Tomas de Villanueva with cut stone blocks. On  July 30, 2011, the church complex, including the Ermita Ruins, were declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum due to its outstanding historical, aesthetic, social and architectural significance.

Check out “Ermita Ruins“

The church has a cruciform plan with an atypically short transept. The church is the only other Spanish-era church, aside from Loon,  that was not originally built with a portico

Its powerful Early Renaissance façade, with subtle hints of baroque and Muslim influence, is divided into segments by square pilasters ornamented with a shallow octagonal relief of fine floral carvings arranged as vertical bands.  On the lower level is a semicircular main entrance (above which is the Spanish coat-of-arms) flanked by blind windows.

On the second level is a statued niche of San Nicolas Tolentino topped by a small pediment and flanked by semicircular windows.

The octagonal bell tower

The steep stone stairway leading up to the right bell tower

On the church’s flanks are two minaret-like octagonal bell towers with seven bells, the earliest dating from 1841.  The tower on the right is accessible by a steep stone staircase followed by a wooden one.

The main altar retablo

Inside are three Neo-Classical retablos, a pulpit with wrought iron banister and a spacious sacristy and choir loft.

The pulpit with wrought iron bannister

The convent, now a school behind the church,  was constructed by Fr. Manuel Carasusan (1842 to 1855 and 1858 to 1864).  Part of its ground floor has a small parish museum. It is linked to the church sacristy by a bridge-like corridor.

Left side retablo

Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine: Poblacion, 6305 Dimiao. Tel: (038) 536-1009. Feast of St. Nicholas of Tolentine: September 10.

How to Get There: Dimiao is located 44.7 kms. (a 1-hour drive) east of Tagbilaran City.

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.