Chavayan Village (Sabtang, Batanes)

Chavayan Village

From Chamanatad-Tinan Viewpoint, it was just a short 1.1-km. drive, along a winding road, to the old, charming village of Chavayan.  The one of the smallest villages in Sabtang and the southernmost community in the province, it is situated between the mountains and the sea, facing the northern tip of Luzon Island. Here, you can find glimpses of the Ivatan way of life, now being threatened by our ever-changing world. Farming and fishing are the primary source of livelihood for the locals. The word chavayan was derived from the word cha (meaning “bountiful”) and vay, the arrowroot plant.

Check out “Chamanatad-Tinan Viewpoint”

Jandy, Grace and the author at the entrance to the village
L-R: Gelyn, Jun, Lorraine, Lourdes, the author, Grace and Jandy. On the left is a now unused boat winch

The iconic “welcome rotunda,” at the asdepen (or asdepan, meaning “entrance) signaled our arrival at the village. To its right is a small hut that serves as the shelter for the Sabtang Weavers Association, the most prominent feature of the village.

Sabtang Weavers Association

Here, we watched old womenfolk traditionally weaving unique souvenir items such as the soot, an Ivatan cape carefully made from finely stripped and dried banana or voyavoy palm leaves, which serves as protection from the scorching heat of the sun or the wind and rain.

Woman weaving a vakul

The vakul is a woman’s soot that covers the head and back and protects the wearer from the sun, rain and wind, keeping themselves cool during the long hours of work in the field.  The kanayi, on the other hand, is a man’s soot made with voyavoy palm leaves or dried abaca stalks.  Worn on the shoulders, it takes three weeks to a month to make but it lasts a lifetime. The talugong, a men’s headgear, normally goes along with the kanayi.

Vakul

Also displayed at their showroom are other handicrafts made out of grasses and palm trees such as abaca bags, purses, pasikin (basket), salakots,home decorations, and other handicrafts.  For photo ops, Grace Lorraine, Lourdes and Gelyn  tried out a vakul  (rented for only PhP20/vakul/person) while Jun, Jandy and I suited up with a kanayi and talugong.

A sinadumparan

Later on, we walked along the narrow street and its rows of old sinadumparan (one of the three classes of stone houses on Batanes) stone houses, a style introduced by the Spaniards when they landed in the province during the late 1800s and some of them are already more than 100 years old.  To preserve the architecture and design of the traditional houses, the provincial government has declared this villages as well as the village of Diura in Mahatao as cultural zones.

Chavayan Theater

These houses have thick walls are made with powdered limestone and corals, while the roofs are made of thatched cogon grass. Here, you can find the traditional detached Ivatan kitchen. The area has no commercial buildings and cellular site around and the life of the locals here are preserved and traditional.  The village does have a “teatro” (theater) where events are held.

Grace and Jandy in front of the Chapel of St. Rose of Lima
Interior of the chapel

Further out, located 10 m. from the beach, is the beautiful Chapel of St. Rose of Lima, the only house of worship in the islands that is still in its traditional form, with cogon grass as roofing.  With a pastel-colored façade, it was built, from 1951 to 1959, via Ivatan spirit of yaru (similar to the Filipino concept of bayanihan) organized by the late Ireneo Hornedo (who was also responsible for building the Chavayan “teatro” and the “welcome rotunda”).  Before venturing out to fish or farm, community prayers are held here before dawn, as villagers offer petitions for safety and abundance.

Monument of Satisfaction

Looking up into the cliff, you can make out Mother Nature’s most perfect sculpture; the phallic-looking Monument of Satisfaction. A small store, at the opposite end (avuyi) of the village, sells Chavayan-made native slippers or sandals, fondly called chavayanas,which fishermen use as protection for their feet on shallow, rocky coastal areas.

The road leading to the beach

On the beach near the village, a popular photo spot, are the Kissing Rocks of Chavayan Village, two unique and imposing rock formations, along the serene and breathtaking bay, that appear to “kiss’ or come close together.

The “Kissing Rocks of Chavayan Village”

Chavayan Village: National Rd., 3904 Sabtang.

How to Get There: Sabtang, on Sabtang Island, is located close to the port.  There are scheduled 30 to 45-minute early morning boat trips by falowa (round-bottomed boat) from Ivana’s Radiwan Port to Sabtang.  From the port, you can rent a tricycle to take you to the viewpoint.

Sabtang Tourist Information Center: Brgy. Sinakan, 3904 Sabtang.  Mobile number: (0929) 226-8055.  E-mail: tourismsabtang@gmail.com.

Provincial Heritage and Tourism Office (PHTO): Mobile number: (0929) 230-5934. Website: www.breathtakingbatanes.com.

Balangay Boat Building Site (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

The author (left) at the Balangay Boat Building Site

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

After our short ocular visit to Magsaysay Bridge, we next drove to the 10.6-acre Balangay Boat Building Area Tree Park, along the Agusan River, where the quincentennial balanghais, Raya Siyagu (with 10 gross tonnage), named after the ruler of Butuan-Caraga, and Raya Kolambu (with 8 gross tonnage), named after the former’s sibling, who was the ruler of Mazaua, are drydocked.  The former was in urgent need for repair while latter still looked seaworthy.

The story of the balanghai (also called balangay) replicas begins in 2009 when the Kaya ng Pinoy Inc., the team (headed by Arturo “Art” Valdez, former undersecretary of the DENR and DTI) that conquered Mount Everest in 2006, announced plans to reconstruct a balanghai boat, with the help of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya) and other tribal members, from Sibutu and Sitangkai Islands of Tawi-Tawi, who retained the lashed-lug boat-building techniques which were mostly lost in other islands.

Raya Kolambu (formerly the Lahi ng Maharlika)

Three balanghais, namely the Diwata ng LahiMasawa Hong Butuan, and the 75 ft. long, 15 ft. wide and 9 ft. high Sama Tawi-Tawi (launched 16, 2010)  were constructed, with old doongan (Heriteriera littoralis) and other Philippine hardwoods (all donated by former Sulu governor Abdusakur Mahail Tan), by the team of Arturo Valdez at Manila Bay, at a 1,000 sq. m. site at Liwasang Ullalim at the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex. The special wood for construction came from the established traditional source in southern Philippines, specifically Tawi-Tawi. The team have pinpointed Sama-Bajau master boat builders, whose predecessors actually built such boats, and used traditional tools during the construction.

A replica balanghai at sea

The boats will try to retrace the 1417 voyage of Sultan Paduka Batara (with 340 followers) of Sulu, from the Philippines to Fujian province in China (to pay tribute to the third Ming Dynasty Chinese emperor Zhu Di (or Yongle).  In September 1417, he arrived in Quanzhou but died there, from natural causes, and is buried in in Dezhou, Shandong, 320 kms. south of Beijing.  Kamulin, the sultan’s wife, and two sons (Andulu and Wenhalla) remained in China to tend to his tomb.  The emperor granted them lands and resources.  About 3,000 to 6,000 of their descendants still live there.

On September 1, 2009, all three journeyed, from Manila Bay, to the southern tip of Sulu,  tracing the routes of Filipino ancestors during the waves of Austronesian settlement through Maritime Southeast Asia and the Pacific.  On May 1, 2010, after an 8-month cruise, they arrived in Zamboanga City, after 70 multiport stopovers, covering 2,500 kms. The balanghais were navigated via the old method used by the ancient mariners – steering by the Sun, the stars, the wind, cloud formations, wave patterns and bird migrations.  Covering a distance of 3,908 kms. (2,108 nautical mi.), along the way, they stopped off at numerous Philippine cities to promote the project.

The second leg of the voyage, from 2010 to 2011, saw them navigate around South East Asia – Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia, Thailand and up to the territorial waters of Vietnam, before heading back to the Philippines.

The bow of the Raya Kolambu

In April 2017, two more balanghai replicas, namely the Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu were assembled, without any blueprints, in Maimbung, Sulu, by 7 members of the Sama-Bajau (Sama Dilaya), from Tawi-Tawi, led by master boat builder Nur Usman.  On May 10, 2017, both began sailing, from Sulu, in a mission to relive the 600 years of diplomatic connection between Sulu and ancient China.  They navigated without the use of modern instruments, and only through the skills and traditional methods of the Filipino Sama people.

Raya Siyagu (formerly the Sultan sin Sulu)

On April 28, 2018, the 33-man Philippine Balangay Expedition (headed by Valdez), on board the Sama Tawi-Tawi (the lead boat skippered by John Manginsay), Lahi ng Maharlika and Sultan sin Sulu, sailed from the Manila Yacht Club and finally reached China, arriving in Xiamen at 3 PM, May 2.  The first two boats had small engines, allowing it to move at 30 knots, while the third was propelled by sail only, with a maximum speed of 10 knots.  They returned to Manila on May 22, after a 25-day journey.

Damage to the Raya Siyagu

In 2019, the Lahi ng Maharlika (now renamed Raya Kolambu), manned by 10 personnel, and Sultan sin Sulu (now renamed Raya Siyagu), run by 8 personnel, set sail, from San Vicente, Palawan to Butuan, in a 6-day journey crossing the Sulu Sea, making stops in Palawan (Linapacan, Cuyo), Antique (Anini-y), Negros Occidental (Sipalay), Negros Oriental (Dumaguete City), Camiguin and, finally, to Butuan Bay.  From Butuan, the balanghais entered the Mactan-Cebu waters on the morning of December 14, arriving in Lapu-Lapu City to commemorate the quincentennial (500th) anniversary of the Battle of Mactan on April 27, 2021.

A small-scale model of a balanghai

Today, the 15 m. long Diwata ng Lahi is on permanent public display at the back of the National Museum of Fine Arts while the Masawa Hong Butuan is on a special pavilion in Butuan City.

Balangay Boat Building Site: Butuan Global Forum, Inc., Luna Compound, 861 R. Calo St., Brgy. Bading, Butuan City, Agusan del Norte. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City. From the city center, take a habal-habal (motorcycle) ride to the site. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Sondheim Theater (London, England, U.K.)

Sondheim Theatre

The highlight of our third day in London was to see the brilliant staging of one of the world’s most popular musicals – Cameron Mackintosh’s acclaimed fully-staged new production of Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schonberg’s Les Misérables, the West End‘s longest-running musical, at the Sondheim Theatre.  This revolutionary Tony Award and Laurence Olivier Award-winning West End musical, opened last September 25, 2021, will run until March 29, 2025.

Check out “Musical Review: Les Miserables”

The theatre’s marquee

The 1,222-pax Sondheim Theatre (formerly the Queen’s Theatre) was so beautiful, it was an attraction in its own right.  Prior to the show, we waited at the luxurious bar which looked like a VIP Lounge. The theatre offers three seating areas: Stalls, Dress Circle and Grand Circle.

L-R: Selena, Manny, Sean, Paula, Grace, the author and Jandy

This West End theatre  opened as the Queen’s Theatre on October 8, 1907, as a twin to the neighboring Hicks Theatre (now the Gielgud Theatre), on the adjoining corner of Shaftesbury Avenue, which had opened ten months earlier. Both theatres were designed by W. G. R. Sprague.

The original plan was to name the venue the Central Theatre. However, after a lengthy debate, it was named the Queen’s Theatre and a portrait of Queen Alexandra was hung in the foyer. The first production at the Queen’s Theatre was a comedy by Madeleine Lucette Ryley called The Sugar Bowl. Although it was poorly received and ran for only 36 performances, the theatre received glowing reviews.

Staircase

In 1913, Tango Teas became a popular pastime and the stalls seats were replaced with tables and chairs where, for the sum of 2/6, people took tea while watching professional tango dancers and dress parades on stage. In 1920, Elsie Janis altered the theatre so that the stalls were “surrounded by a parterre and backed by a luxurious lounge.” A note in the program for It’s All Wrong, described as a “musical complaint,”” read “Miss Janis regrets that her name appears so often in the program, but she does not wish to shirk any of the responsibilities.”

In September 24, 1940, a German bomb landed directly on the theatre, destroying the facade and lobby areas. The production at the time was Daphne du Maurier’s highly successful Rebecca starring Celia JohnsonOwen Nares and Margaret Rutherford.

The theatre stage

The theatre remained closed until, almost 20 years later, a £250,000 restoration was completed by Architects Westwood Sons & Partners. With Sir Hugh Casson acting as consultant on the décor, the auditorium retained its Edwardian decor, while the lobbies and exterior were rebuilt in a modern style. On July 8, 1959, the reconstructed theatre opened with Ages of Man, John Gielgud’s solo recital  in Shakespeare speeches and sonnets. In June 1972, the theatre was Grade II listed by English Heritage.

From April 2004 to July 2019, the theatre played host to Cameron Mackintosh‘s production of Les Misérables, the West End‘s longest-running musical which, after 18 years, transferred at the nearby Palace Theatre. The musical celebrated its 20th anniversary at the venue on October 8, 2005, and overtook Cats as the West End‘s longest-running musical of all time a year later on October 8, 2006. In 2010, Delfont Mackintosh refurbished Queen’s Theatre for the 25th Anniversary of Les Misérables and, on October 8, 2015, the show celebrated the 30th anniversary of its original opening at the Barbican Centre in 1985.  On September 4, 2019, the show celebrated its 14,000th performance.

In 2019, Cameron Mackintosh announced that the original production of Les Misérables would close on July 13, 2019 while the theatre underwent an extensive £13.8 million, lightning fast 20-week refurbishment and restoration. The auditorium’s lovely Edwardian splendor was recreated, from the 1950s reconstruction, with the addition of a curved rail and new boxes at dress circle level, named after Maggie Smith and Judi Dench. Overhangs and ceilings on each tier were also redecorated with a recurring W. G. R. Sprague-inspired cherub design in carved plaster and “fifteen colors and seven shades of gold.” In total, approximately 70 to 80% of the plastering in the building was redone and a new, custom-made chandelier was hung.

Dress Circle and Grand Circle seating areas

To be closer to the audience, the stage was lowered 30 cm. and the famous and innovative revolving stage, used in Les Misérables to enable smooth and seamless changes between scenes, was also notably removed.  In a void space, next door to the theatre, 32 additional toilets were installed. Additional space on every floor, from the basement up, was also reclaimed from a former electricity substation leased to the electric board in 1907. This allowed for more space on stage as well as additional dressing rooms on several floors, now fitted with showers. Finally, to improve audience comfort and sight-lines, new seating was installed.

Ceiling and chandelier

On December 18, 2019, the Queen’s Theatre was renamed as the Sondheim Theatre in honor of composer and lyricist Stephen Sondheim who was also celebrating his 90th birthday.  On January 16, 2020, following completion, the Sondheim Theatre re-opened for its first performance of Les Misérables, featuring sets inspired by original paintings by Victor Hugo, in the 2009 touring staging.

Past and present productions

  • Hamlet (1930) – this Old Vic production transferred to Queen’s and John Gielgud gave his first Shaftesbury Avenue performances of the role he made almost his own with Donald Wolfit as a strong Claudius.
  • Moonlight in Silver (1934) – an ‘ultra-modern problem play’ by Clemence Dane, starred Gertrude Lawrence and Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. This glamorous couple attracted much media attention especially as they were having an affair both on and off stage.
  • Short Story (1935) – Robert Morley’s first play, it combined a host of talent in Marie Tempest, Sybil Thorndike, Margaret Rutherford and Rex Harrison.
  • 1937 – The Gielgud season of Richard IIThe School for ScandalThree Sistersand The Merchant of Venice brought glittering casts and outstanding performances to the theatre. Those who appeared included Leon Quartermaine, Michael Redgrave, Glen Byam Shaw, Anthony Quayle, Alec Guinness, Peggy Ashcroft and George Devine.
  • Stop the World I Want to Get Off (1961) – Anthony Newley and Leslie Bricusse’s thought-provoking musical about the value of personal versus career choices, ran for 478 performances before transferring to Broadway.
  • A Suite in Three Keys (1966) – Noël Coward made his final West End appearance.
  • In August and September 1966 – Laurence Olivier’s National Theatre presented their first West End season, including famous productions of The Royal Hunt of the Sun and Othello.
  • In 1972, Marlene Dietrich appeared for a short season in cabaret. She had first sung in cabaret at the Queen’s in 1964, and her performance can be heard on a live recording.
  • Private Lives (1972) – Maggie Smith and Robert Stephens appeared in this acclaimed production.
  • Saturday, Sunday, Monday (1974) – by Eduardo de Filippo, Franco Zeffirelli directed Joan Plowright in a notable production.
  • Another Country (1982) – Julian Mitchell’s story about Guy Burgess’s schooldays, starred Rupert Everett and launched Kenneth Branagh’s career. Everett was subsequently replaced by Daniel Day Lewis and Colin Firth.
  • Wonderful Town (1986) – a major revival of Leonard Bernstein’s musical about New York won both Laurence Olivier Award and Variety Club Awards.
  • Three Sisters (1990) – the first time two sisters (Vanessa and Lynn Redgrave) had acted on stage together. Their niece Jemma also appeared here.
  • Passion (1996) – Stephen Sondheim‘s love triangle  ran for 232 performances and won Maria Friedman an Olivier Award for her role as Fosca.
  • The Lady in the Van (1999) – Maggie Smith “acted with every muscle” as the smelly, eccentric  Miss Shepherd who lived in playwright Alan Bennett’s drive for many years.
  • The Hobbit (November 28, 2001 –February 9, 2002) by Glyn Robbins from  R. R. Tolkien‘s book
  • Mysteries (February 26, 2002 –May 18, 2002) adaptation by Speir Opera
  • Umoja: The Spirit of Togetherness (June 18, 2002 –August 31, 2002) by Todd Twala, Thenbi Nyandeni and Ian von Memerty
  • Contact (October 23, 2002 –May 10, 2003) by Susan Stroman and John Weildman
  • The Rocky Horror Show(June 23, 2003 –July 5, 2003) by Richard O’Brien, starring Jonathan Wilkes and John Stalker
  • Cyberjam (September 23, 2003 –January 3, 2004)
  • The RSC’s The Taming of the Shrew (January 15, 2004 –March 6, 2004) by William Shakespeare
  • The RSC’s The Tamer Tamed (January 22, 2004 –March 6, 2004) by John Fletcher
  • Les Misérables (April 12, 2004 —July 13, 2019, December 18, 2019 –) by Alain Boublil and Claude-Michel Schönberg
  • Les Misérables – The Staged Concert (December 5, 2020 – February 28, 2021)

Sondheim Theatre:  51 Shaftesbury Avenue  corner Wardour StreetCity of Westminster, London W1D 6BA, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 344 482 5151.  Coordinates: 51.511944°N 0.132778°W.

How to Get There: The nearest train station is Charing Cross while the nearest tube station is Piccadilly Circus (take Shaftesbury Avenue along where the famous illuminated signs are. The theatre will be on your left about 100 m. along, just after the Gielgud Theatre).

The nearest bus stops are serviced by numbers 12, 14, 19, 38 (Shaftesbury Avenue) and 6, 13, 15, 23, 88, 94, 139, 159, 453 (Regent Street). Night bus numbers: (Shaftesbury Avenue) 14, N19, N38; (Regent Street) 6, 12, 23, 88, 94, 139, 159, 453, N3, N13, N15, N109, N18, N136.

British Museum: Department of Prints and Drawings (London, England, U.K.)

Department of Prints and Drawings

The Department of Prints and Drawings, ranked as one of the largest and best print room collections in existence (alongside the Albertina in Vienna, the Paris collections and the Hermitage in St. Petersburg in Russia), holds the national collection of Western prints and drawings, with its own exhibition gallery in Room 90, where the displays and exhibitions change several times a year. Unlike many such collections, the holdings are easily accessible, to the general public, in the Study Room. 

Gallery entrance

Founded in 1808, the prints and drawings collection, with approximately 50,000 drawings and over two million prints, has grown, since its foundation, to international renown as one of the richest and most representative collections in the world. The collection of drawings, covering the period from the 14th century to the present, includes many works of the highest quality by the leading artists of the European schools.

The collection of prints, covering the tradition of fine printmaking, from its beginnings in the 15th century up to the present, has near complete holdings of most of the great names before the 19th century. Clayton Mordaunt CracherodeRichard Payne Knight, John Malcolm, Campbell DodgsonCésar Mange de Hauke and Tomás Harris have been key benefactors to the department while writer and author Louis Alexander Fagan, who worked in the department from 1869 to 1894, also made significant contributions to the department in form of his Handbook to the Department, as well as various other books about the museum, in general.

The groups of drawings includes works by Leonardo da VinciRaphael and Michelangelo, (including his only surviving full-scale cartoon) as well as Peter Paul RubensRembrandtClaude and Jean-Antoine Watteau.  There are also largely complete collections of the works of all the great printmakers including Rembrandt and Francisco Goya.

The Albrecht Dürer  collection consists of 138 drawings (one of the finest in existence) as well as 99 engravings, 6 etchings and most of his 346 woodcuts

More than 30,000 British drawings and water colors include important examples of works by William HogarthPaul SandbyJ.M.W. TurnerThomas GirtinJohn ConstableJohn Sell CotmanDavid CoxJames GillrayThomas RowlandsonFrancis Towne and George Cruikshank, as well as all the great Victorians. The collection also contains the unique set of water colors by John White, a pioneering colonist and the first British artist in America and first European to paint Native Americans.

The approximately million British prints including more than 20,000 satires and outstanding collections of works by William Blake and Thomas Bewick. The great, 11-volume Catalogue of Political and Personal Satires, preserved in the Department of Prints and Drawings in the British Museum, compiled between 1870 and 1954, is the definitive reference work for the study of British Satirical prints.

Over 500,000 objects from the department are now on the online collection database, many with high-quality images. In 2011, The acquisition of a complete set of Pablo Picasso‘s Vollard Suite was enabled by a donation of £1 million to the museum.

Department of Prints and Drawings: Room 90,British Museum, Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3DG, England. Tel: +44 (0)20 7323 8000 and +44 20 7323 8299. Website: www.britishmuseum.org. Open daily, 10 AM – 5 PM (last entry at 4:45 PM) and on Fridays until 8:30 PM (last entry at 8:15 PM).  Admission is free.  Coordinates: 51°31′10″N 0°7′37″W. Entry to the Museum is via the Main entrance on Great Russell Street or the Montague Place entrance.

National Galleries of Scotland: Portrait (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

National Galleries of Scotland: Portraits. Sculpted figures of noted Scots, set in niches and designed by William Birnie Rhind, can be found around the corner.

National Galleries of Scotland: Portrait, an art museum  holding the national collections of portraits (some 3,000 paintings and sculptures, 25,000 prints and drawings), all of which are of, but not necessarily by, Scots, also holds the Scottish National Photography Collection of 38,000 photographs.

The entrance to the museum, guarded by statues of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, leads to the main entrance hall,

It is part of National Galleries Scotland, a public body that also owns the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and the Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh.

The arcaded Main Hall

It is the first in the world to be specially built as a national portrait gallery (the National Portrait Gallery, London, established in 1856, was the first such separate museum in the world but it  did not move into its current purpose-built building until 1896).

The Battle of Stirling Bridge (William Brassey Hole)

The Good Deeds of King David I (William Brassey Hole)

Here’s the historical timeline of the museum:

  • In 1780, the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland was founded by the David Erskine, 11th Earl of Buchan. Its members donated items of interest. The mildly eccentric Erskine also formed a collection of Scottish portraits, many of which are now in the museum.
  • In 1781, the society bought the Antiquarian Society Hall, located between the Cowgate and Parliament Close, just to the west of Old Fishmarket Close, as a place to properly store this material.
  • From 1826, it rented space in the Royal Institution at the foot of The Mound, owned by the Board of Manufactures.
  • By 1851, its collections were in 24 George Street
  • In November 1851, it agreed with the Board to make the collections National Property, with the government to provide continuing accommodation for the collections and for the Society’s meetings.
  • In 1858, as part of the 1851 agreement, the collections were moved back to the Royal Institution.
  • In 1882, John Ritchie Findlay, owner and chief proprietor of The Scotsmannewspaper, endowed a new building on Queen Street, costing £50,000, designed by architect Sir Robert Rowand Anderson to accommodate both the antiquities collections and the portraits of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. That same year, the portrait gallery was established before its new building was completed.
  • In 1885, construction of the building began.
  • In 1889, the building was opened under curator John Miller Gray. When it opened, a large Main Hall, at the center of the façade, formed a shared entrance to the two institutions with Portrait occupying the east wing of the building, and the Museum of Antiquities taking up the west wing.
  • In 1890, the building was completed.
  • In 1985 the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland was amalgamated with the Royal Scottish Museum, and later moved to Chambers Street as part of the National Museum of Scotland.
  • in 2009, the Museum of Scotland (the former National Museum of Antiquities) moved to a new building.
  • In April 2009, the first comprehensive refurbishment in its history, carried out by Page\Park Architects, was undertaken, with funding from the Scottish Governmentand the Heritage Lottery Fund, amongst others. Portrait was expanded to take over the whole building. The gallery spaces were restored to their original layout (removing false walls, lowered ceilings, opening up windows, restoration of the great coved ceilings on the upper floors on the west side, and revealing hidden Victorian details like the elegant stone arcade in the Ramsey Room), with areas set aside for education, a new gallery specially earmarked for photography, the decent size shop & café, and a new glass lift—greatly improving access for disabled visitors. After the changes, Portrait has 60% more gallery space. The cost of the refurbishment was £17.6 million.
  • On December 1, 2011, the museum was reopened with 849 works displayed, of which 480 were by Scots.

Heroes and Heroines Gallery. At left is a portrait of Charles Kenneth Scott-Moncrieff done by Edward Stanley Mercer.

The Modern Portrait Gallery. At right is a portrait of Sir Charles Grant Robertson done by Meredith Frampton

The Remaking of Scotland

The large, symmetrical,  three-level building, at the east end of Queen Street, was built with red sandstone from Corsehill in Dumfriesshire.  It comprises 5,672 sq. m. and is a Category A listed building.

John Ritchie Findlay of Aberlour (George Reid)

Built in Gothic Revival (with a combination of Arts and Crafts and 13th-century Gothic influences) style, it is noted for its ornate Spanish Gothic style (an unusual addition to Edinburgh’s mostly Georgian Neoclassical New Town) with carved, pointed arched windows and a main entrance, on the Queen Street front, surrounded by a large gabled arch.

Jandy beside a portrait of Sir Winston Churchill done by Sir James Guthrie

Grace beneath a portrait of Henry, Prince of Wales done by Robert Peake

The entrance, guarded by statues of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, leads to the main entrance hall, arcaded with pointed arches, which originally served both Portrait to its east, and the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland to its west. The gallery’s distinctive feature is its four octagonal corner towers topped with crocketed Gothic pinnacles.

Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots done by an unknown artist after Francois Clouet

Another portrait of Mary Queen of Scots also done by an unknown artist

Sculpted figures of noted Scots, set in niches and designed by William Birnie Rhind, can be found around the exterior.  Added in the 1890s, they compensate for the lack of contemporary portraits of medieval Scots in the gallery’s collection at the time.

Henrietta Anne, Duchess of Orleans (Jean Nocret)

General Sir James Hope Grant (Sir Francis Grant)

The large processional or pageant frieze, its mural painted by William Hole inside the main entrance hall balustrade, was added in 1898.  Depicting an array of notable Scots from history in reverse chronological order, these figures were added to the frieze over the years after the gallery opened.

Sir William Brice (John Michael Wright)

Sir Thomas Strange (John Hoppner)

Starting with Thomas Carlyle, it includes David Livingstone, James Watt, Robert Burns,  Adam Smith, David Hume, the Stuart monarchs, Robert the Bruce and  Saint Ninian.  Later, Hole added further large mural narrative scenes on the first floor.

Alexander Henderson (Sir Anthony van Dyck)

David Hume (Allan Ramsay)

The museum’s collection essentially begins in the Renaissance, initially mainly with works, of Scottish royalty and nobility, done by foreign artists, as well as mainly printed portraits of clergymen and writers.

Bust of Arthur Wellesley (Sir John Steell)

Bust of Hugh Miller (William Brodie)

The most notable paintings were mostly made on the Continent, often during periods of exile from the turbulent Scottish political scene. Religious art, as in England, has been all but extinguished by the Scottish Reformation.  Until the 19th century, Scottish painting was dominated by portrait painting, with patrons gradually extending down the social scale and, in the 16th century, most painted portraits are of royalty or the more important nobility.

Bust of Queen Victoria (William Brodie)

Bust of Sir David Wilkie (Samuel Joseph)

A portrait of James IV of Scotland, from 1507, is the oldest work in the collection.  There are also two portraits of Mary, Queen of Scots, one painted some 20 years after her death in 1587, and the other is later still. A number of 19th-century paintings also show scenes from her life. Her three husbands also have portraits, including Darnley by Hans Eworth and an unknown painter, and miniatures from 1566 of Bothwell and his first wife.

Statue of Robert Burns (John Flaxman)

Statue of James Clerk Maxwell (Alexander Stoddart)

There is a portrait of Regent Morton, Mary’s nemesis, by Arnold Bronckhorst from 1581.  Although he only spent about three years there, Bronckhorst is the first artist to hold the title of “King’s Painter” in Scotland. The gallery holds several works by Bronckhorst, and his successor, Adrian Vanson, who were both skilled painters in the Netherlandish tradition. The collection includes portraits, of Stuart monarch James VI and I, by Bronckhorst and Vanson.

George Seton with Sons (Adam de Colone)

Flora Macdonald (Richard Wilson)

George Jamesone (1589/90-1644), the first significant native Scot to be a portrait painter, only once got the chance to paint Charles I, his monarch, when he visited Edinburgh in 1633.  Two Jamesone self-portraits and portraits of the Scottish aristocracy, as well as some imagined portraits of heroes of Scotland’s past. are included in the collection.

Robert Louis Stevenson (Count Girolamo Nerli)

Sir Henry Duncan (George Reid)

There are also three portraits by John Michael Wright, Jamesone’s talented pupil, plus ten aristocratic portraits by Sir John Baptist Medina, the last “King’s Painter” before the Acts of Union 1707.

Elizabeth Hamilton (Sir Henry Raeburn)

David Scott (Tilly Kettle)

The museum has one of the earliest examples of portraits featuring tartan, which begin to be painted in the late 17th century (at that time apparently with no political connotations), a full-length 1683 portrait, by John Michael Wright, of Lord Mungo Murray, son of John Murray, 1st Marquess of Atholl, wearing a belted plaid for hunting.

Lady Anne Hay, Countess of Winton (Adam de Colone)

Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Louis Tocque)

After the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion, the wearing of tartan was banned but, after a few decades, reappears in grand portraits, before becoming ever more popular with Romanticism and the works of Sir Walter Scott. after her arrest for helping Bonnie Prince Charlie to escape after the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion, Flora MacDonald was painted by Richard Wilson , also wearing tartan, in London.

General Thomas Dalyell (L. Schuneman)

Prince James Francis Edward Stuart (Anton Raphael Mengs)

In the 18th century, Scottish portrait painting flourished and Allan Ramsay and Sir Henry Raeburn, with 13 and 15 works respectively, are well represented, Sir Henry Raeburn with many paintings of figures from the Scottish Enlightenment, as well as the recently acquired lost portrait of Charles Edward Stuart.

Self Portrait (Francis Campbell Boileau Cadell)

The career of Sir Henry Raeburn extends into the 19th century, with portraits of Walter Scott and others. The museum owns the iconic portrait, by Alexander Nasmyth, of Robert Burns .

Robert Burns (Alexander Nasmyth)

Self-Portrait (Sir Henry Raeburn)

Sculptor and gem-cutter James Tassie (1735–1799) has the largest number of works, by a single artist, with 58.  With 18th century Scottish high society subjects including Adam SmithJames Beattie and Robert Adam (he disliked having his portrait taken but Tassie was a member of his social circle he did not refuse, with the result that, as with the Naysmyth portrait of Burns, almost all images of Smith derive from the exemplar in the museum), Tassie, along with Irish physician Henry Quin, developed a distinctive format of large fired glass paste (or vitreous enamelrelief “medallion” portraits in profile, initially modelled in wax.

Portrait Medallions (James Tassie)

Despite no such dominant figures, the later 19th century in Scotland had many fine artists, and saw the beginning of photography. A gallery, in the museum, is devoted to the photographs of Glasgow life taken by Thomas Annan. In general, the displays concentrate on the common people of Scotland, especially the images of slums taken from 1868 to 1871.

Tilda Swinton (John Byrne)

Sean Connery (John Bellany)

In the present day, the collection continues to expand, with Scottish painters such as John Bellany (includes a self-portrait and portraits of Peter Maxwell Davies and Billy Connolly) and John Byrne (his works include images of himself, Tilda Swinton, Billy Connolly and Robbie Coltrane).

Womb From Womb (William Crosbie)

Billy Connoly (John Byrne)

Other works in the collection include portraits of James Hamilton, 1st Duke of Hamilton (by Daniel Mytens), Douglas Douglas-Hamilton, 14th Duke of Hamilton (by Oskar Kokoschka), Winnie Ewing (by Norman Edgar), Alex Ferguson (by David Mach), Ian Wilmut (by Wendy McMurdo) and Robin Jenkins (by Jennifer McRae).

Library & Print Room

The Library & Print Room has displays that show artistic experimentations with portraiture from the 17th century to contemporary times.  It also houses a wealth of research resources on Scottish portraiture as well as the personal library of American documentary photographer Eve Arnold gifted by her family.

Portrait of King Charles III (Victoria Crowe)

There’s also a collection of about 400 portrait miniatures including works by Nicholas Hillard, John Hoskins and Samuel Cooper.

Photo of Rose Reilly (Jeremy Sutton Hibbert)

National Galleries Scotland: Portrait: 1 Queen StreetEdinburgh EH2 1JD Scotland. Tel: +44 131 624 6200. E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org. Website: www.nationalgalleries.org. Open daily, 10 AM to 5 PM. Coordinates: 55°57′19.5″N 3°11′36.9″W.

National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two

The National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two, formerly the Dean Gallery, is one of the two buildings housing the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, one of Scotland’s national art galleries. Operated by National Galleries Scotland, it is twinned with Modern One which lies on the opposite side of Belford Road.

Check out “National Gallery of Scotland Modern One

The English-Baroque facade

It is home to a changing program of world-class exhibitions and displays drawn from the permanent collection. During our visit, On permanent display is a recreation of the Scottish sculptor Eduardo Paolozzi‘s studio, as well as his magnificent, 7.3 m. high sculpture, Vulcan, that dominates the the Paolozzi’s Kitchen (named after the Scottish sculptor), reaching from the floor to the ceiling.

One of the tower, over staircases, that contain chimneys

The museum is housed in a English Baroque-style building, with Classical detail, which started out as the Dean Orphanage (the subject of a watercolor painting c.1830 by Thomas Hamilton).  Built in Craigleith stone from the nearby quarry, it took three years to build. Contributing to the Edinburgh skyline, in the west of the city center, are the towers, over the staircases, that contain chimneys. Above the entrance is a clock that came from the original Orphan Hospital and, in turn, from the 1764 demolition of the Netherbow Port on the High Street, which formerly separated the High Street from the Canongate.

The exhibit space

For many decades, this building, owned by the City of Edinburgh Council, served as the Dean Education Centre before its conversion into a gallery designed by the architect Terry Farrell and Partners. In 1999, the gallery opened opposite the existing Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. In 2011, both buildings were rebranded Modern Two and Modern One, respectively.

the 73 m. high Vulcan sculpture of Eduardo Paolozzi (1989)

Modern Two houses the Paolozzi Gift, a collection of works by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, given by the artist to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art in 1994, as well as the gallery’s world-famous collection of Surrealism (including works by Salvador DalíRené Magritte and Alberto Giacometti) and a large collection of Dada and Surrealist art and literature largely made up by the collections of Roland Penrose and Gabrielle Keiller.

Modern Two also houses temporary exhibitions, a library (its great strengths are Dada and Surrealism, early twentieth century artists and contemporary Scottish art), an archive and a special books collection.

Two Lines Up Excentric VI (George Rickey, 1977, stainless steel)

The archive, containing over 120 holdings relating to twentieth and twenty-first century artists, collectors and art organizations, including the gallery’s own papers, holds one of the world’s best collections of Dada and Surrealist material. The special books collection, containing over 2,500 artist books and limited edition livres d’artiste (again with a main focus on Dada and Surrealism), also contains books by other major artists from the twentieth century including Oskar Kokoschka‘s Die Träumenden Knaben (1917) and Henri Matisse’s Jazz (1947), all available to the public in the reading room which is only open to the public by appointment. The Gabrielle Keiller Library hosts regular changing displays that showcase items from these collections.

Master of the Universe (Eduardo Paolozzi, 1989)

Modern Two is surrounded by a sculpture garden with a number of modern and avant-garde works on display, including Gate (1972) by William TurnbullTwo Lines up Excentric VI (1977) by George RickeyLa Vierge d’Alsace (1919–1921) by Emile-Antoine BourdelleThere will be no Miracles Here (2007–2009) by Nathan ColeyMaster of the Universe (1989) by Eduardo PaolozziTwo Two-Way Mirrored Parallelograms Joined with One Side Balanced Spiral Welded Mesh (1996) by Dan GrahamMacduff Circle (2002) by Richard Long, and Escaped Animals (2002) by Julian Opie.

National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two: 75 Belford Rd, Edinburgh EH4 3DR, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 624 6200.  E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org. Website: www.nationalgalleries.org.  Open daily, 10 AM to 5PM. Coordinates: 55°57′06.52″N 3°13′26.75″W.

National Gallery of Scotland Modern One (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

National Gallery of Scotland Modern One

The National Gallery of Scotland Modern One, with its renowned collection of more than 5,000 items dating from the late 19th century to the present day, is housed in the former Watson’s Institution Building which was designed, in the Greek Doric style, by William Burn (1789-1870) and completed in 1825 as the John Watson School for Fatherless Children of the Professional Classes.  Its five-bay Neo-Classical frontage has a grand, six-columned portico.

The five-bay Neo-Classical frontage

In 1979, the building, with its classrooms and dormitories, was bought by the Crown Estates Commissioners and was successfully adapted, to its new function, from 1981 to 1984.  In 2011, its name was changed to Modern One. Operated by National Galleries Scotland, it is twinned with National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two which lies on the opposite side of Belford Road.

Check out “National Gallery of Scotland Modern Two

The museum lobby

International post-war work features art by Francis BaconDavid HockneyAndy WarholJoan Eardley and Alan Davie, with more recent works by artists including Douglas GordonAntony GormleyRobert Priseman and Tracey Emin and an outstanding collection of modern Scottish art.

Ah Kong – Ghost (Rae-Yen Song, 2022)

It presents works from the collection as well as a program of changing exhibitions. The early part of the collection features important Surrealist and German Expressionist art from the beginning of the twentieth century, with paintings by Giacometti, Hockney, Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso.

Lee Miller (Pablo Picasso, 1937, oil on canvas)

Also included are works by André Derain and Pierre Bonnardcubist paintings, holdings of expressionist and modern British art, and 20th century Scottish Colourists Samuel John PeploeJohn Duncan FergussonFrancis Cadell and Leslie Hunter.

Glacier Chasm (Wilhelmina Barns-Graham, 1951, oil on canvas)

The collection also includes ARTIST ROOMS, a collection of modern and contemporary art acquired for the nation by National Galleries Scotland and Tate with support from the National Heritage Memorial Fundthe Art Fund and the Scottish and British Governments.

?I Am Your Conduit (2014, thread embedded in handmade cotton paper)

The growing collection includes works by major international artists including Andy Warhol, Louise BourgeoisRobert Mapplethorpe and Damien Hirst. The collection includes the larger of Roy Lichtenstein‘s In the Car pieces. The displays change on a regular basis.

Self-Portrait (Robert Mapplethorpe, 1980)

In 2002, the lawn to the front of Modern One was re-landscaped to a dramatic, award-winning (it won the prestigious Gulbenkian Prize in 2004) design by architectural historian Charles Jencks (b. 1939) entitled Landform Ueda, an eye-catching work or art in their own right.

Grace Jones (Robert Mapplethorpe, 1984, gelatin silver print on paper)

This sinuous series of grass-covered stepped terraces that rises to form a serpentine mound, with three pools of water occupying crescent-shaped hollows in between.  It also includes the remains of an 18th century windmill.

Tightrope Walker (Paul Klee, 1923, color lithograph on paper) (Copy)

Two Figures (Natalia Goncharova, ca. 1910-20, pencil and crayon on paper)

The sculpture park includes bronze works such as Personnage (1978) and Femme (Woman) (1970) by Joan Miro; Conversation with Magic Stones (1973) by Barbara Hepworth; and Reclining Figure (1951) by Henry Moore; among others.

Conversation with Magic Stones (Barbara Hepworth, 1973, bronze)

Reclining Figure (Henry Moore, 1951, bronze)

The Neo-Classical façade of Modern One is home to Martin Creed‘s Work No. 975, EVERYTHING IS GOING TO BE ALRIGHT. Modern One backs on to the Water of Leith river and walkway, which can be accessed by a long flight of steep steps behind the Gallery.

Landform Ueda (Charles Jencks)

Personnage (Joan Miro)

National Gallery of Scotland Modern One: 73 and 75 Belford Road, Edinburgh EH4 3DR, Scotland, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 131 624 6200. E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org. Website: www.nationalgalleries.org. Open daily, 10 AM to 5 PM.  Admission is free.

Church of St. Cuthbert and Graveyard (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

St. Cuthbert Parish Church

The historic parish church of St Cuthbert, and its graveyard, are a significant part of Edinburgh’s heritage (the church has been a Category A listed building since 1970) that are both well-maintained.  The church, on the oldest continually used site of worship in the whole city, a parish church of the Church of Scotland.  The earliest church on the site was said to have been founded by St. Cuthbert around 670 AD.

The graveyard beside the church

Partly due to its closeness to Edinburgh Castle, the church was, at different times, caught in cannon crossfire between opposing armies, suffering severe damage or being destroyed as a result and it is believed that there have been seven churches built on its site. The present church of St Cuthbert’s, built in the Baroque and Italian Renaissance style, was designed (except for the steeple of the previous church which was retained), by Hippolyte Blanc and built between 1892 and 1894. It is apparently quite beautiful inside, with stained glass windows by Louis Comfort TiffanyDouglas Strachan, and Ballantyne & Gardiner; mural paintings by Gerald Moira and John Duncan; and memorials by John Flaxman and George Frampton.  However, on this particular day, it was closed to visitors.

The twin, 3-storey Baroque towers with the old steeple in between

The church, divided into upper and lower levels by a continuous course of ashlar dressings, has a roughly dressed and snecked, cream sandstone exterior, with every corner decorated with half-fluted Corinthian pilasters, on the upper stage (pierced with round-arched windows, with architraves  supported by half-fluted Corinthian pilasters, of each of the four western bays), and quoining on the lower (each bay pierced by an oblong window below a corniced architrave). The slated roof rests at a shallow pitch. The near-identical north and south elevations terminate with square-based, three-storeyed Baroque towers on the east sides of the transepts.

One of the twin, Baroque-style towers

The church itself was where the almost 40-year old crime writer Agatha Christie married the 26-year old (a nearly 14-year age gap which was considered scandalous by some at that time) archaeologist Max Mallowan, her second husband, in 1930, a runaway affair, with the couple eloping northwards, from England to Edinburgh, where the service was conducted without friends or family, and just two strangers brought off the street to act as witnesses to the ceremony.

The large graveyard, near Edinburgh Castle, is believed to be on the oldest Christian site in Edinburgh.  The graveyard is impressive, containing hundreds of monuments worthy of notice, including one to John Grant of Kilgraston (near Perth), and a number of graves that are worth examining as it holds the remains of notable individuals like Thomas De Quincey (1785–1859, author of Confessions of an English Opium-Eater) and John Napier. The first reference to a graveyard here is recorded as being in 1595.

The graveyard

The mathematician John Napier (1550–1617) discovered logarithms and invented ‘Napier’s Bones’ (because the instruments were originally carved from bone or ivory), a device for easily calculating large sums, a precursor to the pocket calculator. He is buried in an underground vault on the north side of the church (reburied after destruction of the kirkyard of St. Giles to build Parliament House).

The three-bay Gothic mausoleum of the Gordons of Cluny, by David Bryce contains the tomb of Cosmo Gordon of Cluny FRSE (1736–1800), a politician and co-founder of the Royal Society of Edinburgh in 1783.

Obelisks used to mark the graves of notable individuals and families

Robert Tait McKenzie, a Canadian doctor and sculptor, created the memorial known as The Call 1914, in nearby Princes Street Gardens, which commemorates the Scots soldiers who were killed or injured during the First World War. His heart is buried in St Cuthbert’s kirkyard, with a small decorative plaque commemorating his life. Mackenzie originally wanted to be buried in front of the memorial after his death.

Sir Henry Raeburn (1756–1823), one of Scotland’s foremost portrait painters in the eighteenth century, is buried on the eastern wall of the graveyard. Another artist buried here is Alexander Nasmyth (1758–1840), also an architect and inventor, whose most notable painting is the much-copied portrait of Robert Burns. His son, James Nasmyth, also a prolific inventor, is most famous for the steam hammer while his other son, Patrick Nasmyth continued the family line as an artist of note.

Also buried here is Jessie MacDonald, granddaughter of Flora MacDonald (who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie, the Young Pretender of the Jacobite Uprisings, escape Scotland after his defeat at the Battle of Culloden in 1746), and George Meikle Kemp (1795–1844), the self-taught architect and master joiner whose major gift to the city of Edinburgh was the Scott Monument, the “Gothic rocket’’ of in Princes Street Gardens.

Other noteworthy burials in the graveyard include:

Many were also buried within the church. They include William Paul (1754–1802), Chaplain in Ordinary to George III; and Sir James Rocheid of Inverleith (1715–1787).

West of the transept, on the north side, are steps that descend to a round-arched doorway, in the basement level, that lead to the Nisbet of Dean burial vault. Buried here is Henrie Nisbet of Dean (died 1609) and his son William Nisbet of Dean. Henrie was Provost of Edinburgh, from 1592 to 1593, while William was twice Provost of Edinburgh 1615 to 1619 and 1622 to 1623. Constructed in 1692, it was retained during the construction of the current church and its predecessor.

Dog sculpture commemorating Edinburgh’s sister city of San Diego (California, USA) and their respective celebrity dogs (Greyfriar’s Bobby, of Edinburgh, and Bum of San Diego)

St, Cuthbert Church Graveyard: 5 Lothian Road, New Town, Edinburgh, EH1 2EP, Scotland.

Fort Augustus (Scotland, U.K.)

Fort Augustus and the Caledonian Canal

Part of Scottish Highlands Tour

From Spean Bridge, it was another 36.7 kms. (a 30-min. drive), via A82, to Fort Augustus, a charming settlement and popular and busy tourist destination in the parish of Boleskine and Abertarff, at the south-west end of Loch NessScottish Highlands, home of the famous Loch Ness Monster (fondly called Nessie).  Here we were to have lunch and, afterwards, go on a boat cruise around Loch Ness. It was raining throughout when we arrived and we had to bring out our umbrellas to get to Monster Fish & Chips, adjacent to the Jet Petrol Station, where we first tried out a huge serving of its namesake.

Check out “Spean Bridge” and “Loch Ness Cruise

Monster Fish and Chips

Jet Petrol Station

Until the early 18th century, the settlement was called Kiliwhimin. After the Jacobite rising of 1715, it was renamed Fort Augustus after  Prince William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, one of the sons of King George II.  From 1903 until 1933, the village was served by a rail line, from Spean Bridge, to a terminus on the banks of Loch Ness.  It was built by the Invergarry and Fort Augustus Railway in the hope of eventually completing a line to Inverness and latterly operated by the North British Railway and its successor, the London and North Eastern Railway, but initially operated by the Highland Railway.

Caledonian Canal

 

After lunch, I proceeded to explore the village on foot.  Fort Augustus is centered around the impressive, 96 km. (60 mi.) long Caledonian Canal.  The canal, connecting Fort William to Inverness, passes through Fort Augustus in a dramatic series of locks stepping down to Loch Ness. The canal was built, between 1804 and 1822, under the direction of William Jessop and Thomas Telford.  Boats using the canal are raised and lowered 13 m. by a “ladder” of 5 consecutive locks, all completed in 1820.  The A82 road crosses the canal on a swing bridge at the foot of the 5 locks.

War Memorial Hall

The single storey War Memorial Hall, a public hall converted to the Territorial Drill Hall (and later returned to its original function), was designed by Inverness-born architect John Robertson (1840-1925) and built from 1891 to 1892.  It Italianate style detailing includes round arch windows with unusual convex moldings and deep overhanging beams.  The interior includes a good hammerbeam roof in the main hall.

The Clansman Centre

A memorial plaque, set in a round arch recess at the porch front of the hall, has a battlemented parapet and was built in 1918.  It commemorates the residents of Fort Augustus who were killed or missing in the First World War (21 names) and the Second World War (5 names).

The Mill Shop

The village’s economy is heavily reliant on tourism and all around the town are many gift and souvenir shops selling tartan treats (scarves, blankets, woolen jumpers, etc.), traditional Scottish souvenirs and Nessie souvenirs such as the Caledonian Canal Visitor Centre, The Mill Shop (a converted church), the Fort Augustus Gift Company, the Clansman Centre, etc.

Caledonian Canal Centre

The Caledonian Canal Visitor Centre, beside the lowest lock, offers visitors and locals a wealth of local heritage and internationally renowned local features of the Caledonian Canal (designed by Thomas Telford and opened in 1822), Great Glen and Loch Ness. This world-class visitor and destination hub also offers all year round facilities for visitors, a gift shop promoting relevant and locally sourced goods and a café serving homemade, Scottish produce. There is also a grab and go offer, boasting fresh coffee and local artisan ice cream from the Black Isle Dairy.

Fort Augustus Gift Company

The Clansman Centre, housed in a historic 19th century Victorian schoolhouse, is a quaint little craft and gift shop specializing in Celtic and locally produced crafts and gifts such as silver jewelry, Harris Tweed, tartan, whiskey barrel clocks and frames, Celtic plaques, clan scarves and Nessie souvenirs. An interactive museum, it also offers shows on the Clansmen, featuring live re-enactments with weapons demonstrations, by costumed actors dressed in traditional Highland garb, in a recreated Highland turf house theater.

Bothy Restaurant & Bar

Aside from Monster Fish & Chips, you can also dine at Bothy Restaurant & Pub, The Moorings and the Boathouse.

The Moorings

The Boathouse

Monster Fish & Chips: 6, A82, Fort Augustus PH32 4DD, United Kingdom.

Fort Augustus Gift Company: Main Street, Fort Augustus PH32 4DD, United Kingdom.

The Mill Shop: Mackay Hall, Fort Augustus PH32 4DJ, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 1320 366404. Open daily,10 AM to 4 PM.

Caledonian Canal Visitor Centre: Canal Side, Fort Augustus PH32 4AU, United Kingdom. Open daily, 9 AM to 5 PM. Tel: 01463 725581.  E-mail: stay@scottishcanals.co.uk.

Clansman Centre:   Old Schoolhouse Canal Side, Fort Augustus PH32 4BD, United Kingdom.  Open daily, 11 AM to 4 PM.  Tel: +44 1320 366444.  E-mail: clansmancentre@gmail.com. Website: www.clansmancentre.uk. 

The Hairy Coo:  Suites 6 & 7, Administrative Office Only, St. John’s Studios, 46A Constitution St., Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6RS, United Kingdom.  Tel: +44 131 212 5026.  E-mail: contact@thehairycoo.com. Website: www.thehairycoo.com.

How to Get There: Fort Augustus is located 161 kms. (100  mi.) from Edinburgh and 692 kms. (430 mi.) from London. The village is served by the A82 road and lies approximately midway between Inverness (56 kms.) and Fort William (51 kms.) in the Scottish Highlands.  Coordinates: 57.1432°N 4.6807°W.

The National: Impressionism and French Modernism, 1870-1900 (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

Impressionism, an influential style of painting that originated in France in the late nineteenth century, during a time of great social and cultural change, was a revolutionary art movement that had a broad-ranging impact on the development of modern art. It focused on painting “vision,” considering how we see, not what we see;

Montagne, Sainte-Victoire (Paul Cezanne, 1890-95, oil on canvas)

It preceded the development of avant-garde movements, particularly Cubism. Their interest in the abstract properties of color, light, line and form separated painting from its role as instructive and illustrative, opening it up to the freedom of individuality and emotion, leading the way for Fauvism and Expressionism in the early twentieth century.

Olive Trees (Vincent van Gogh, 1889, oil on canvas)

Collectively the Impressionists sought to capture the impression of a scene through lively brushstrokes and they often worked en plein air, producing works of art rapidly in a single sitting. They influenced artists such as John Singer Sargent who applied the Impressionist approach to portraiture.

Orchard with Apricot Trees in Blossom, Arles (Vincent van Gogh, 1883, oil on canvas)

Hilaire-Germain-Edgar Degas focused on figures in motion, such as racehorses, or the dancers at the Paris Opera. Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne, Berthe Morisot and others preferred to work out of doors, capturing the changing effects of light and weather. However, Morisot was limited to domestic subjects, reflecting the restrictions on women of her social status. Henri Martin and Paul Gauguin began to paint from the imagination, while Paul Cézanne adopted a more analytical approach to landscape. Vincent van Gogh developed an expressive technique derived from Neo-Impressionism, whereby the paint was applied using dots or strokes of color.

The Big Trees (Paul Cezanne, 1902-04, oil on canvas)

The display features a selection of paintings by Impressionist artists, from Claude Monet (HaystacksA Seascape, Shipping by Moonlight, Poplars on the Epte, etc.) to Berthe Morisot (Woman and Child in a Garden), Hilaire-Germain-Edgar Degas (A Group of DancersPortrait of Diego Martelli) John Singer Sargent (Gertrude Vernon, Lady Agnew of Lochnaw) as well as later works by Paul Gauguin (Vision after the SermonMartinique Landscape, Vision of the Sermon, Three Tahitians, etc.), Paul Cézanne (The Big TreesMontagne Sainte-Victoire) and Vincent van Gogh (Olive TreesOrchard with Apricot Trees in Blossom, etc.). 

The Vision of the Sermon (Paul Gauguin, 1888, oil on canvas)

Impressionism and French Modernism, 1870-1900: Level 1, The National, The Mound, Edinburgh EH2 2EL, United Kingdom. Tel: +44 131 624 6200.  E-mail: enquiries@nationalgalleries.org. Website: www.nationalgalleries.org. Open daily, 10 AM to 5 PM.  Admission is free.

How to Get There: the museum is located on The Mound in central Edinburgh, close to Princes Street.