“San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit” (Manila)

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Scaled model of the galleon San Diego

The “San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit” occupies the 4 seminar rooms at the ground floor (Cabinet Ladies Foundation, Nestle Philippines, SGV & Co. and the SSS) and at Asianbank Corp./A. Soriano Corp./Phinma Group Gallery at the second floor.    On display here are 5,000 artifacts that represent a time capsule of the known world at that time, recovered from the San Diego, one of 59 galleons that sank in Philippine waters and one of three (the others are the Nuestra Senora de la Vida and the San Jose) where artifacts have been retrieved.  Its recovery confirmed the Philippines’ reputation as a rich ground for underwater archaeology.

The San Diego, originally named the San Antonio, was a three-masted galleon, a trading ship plying the Manila to Acapulco (Mexico) route.  Said to be the first Filipino big boat, it was probably built in Cebu around 1590 and 1600 by Basque shipwrights, Chinese craftsmen and a big Filipino labor force.  Its weight was placed between 200 to as heavy as 500 tons, was between 35 to 40 m. long and 20 m. wide.  The San Diego had four decks and could hold about 700 tons of cargo.  Different kinds of heavy local wood (bitaug, apitong) measuring 35 to 40 m. long, 12 m. wide and 8 m. high were used for its construction.

Portrait of Don Antonio de Morga

As a merchant ship, the San Diego was, however, not designed for naval combat yet this reconditioned, 14-gun ship (under Vice-Governor Antonio de Morga) was engaged, together with the 200-ton and 12-gun San Bartolome (under the experienced naval officer Juan de Alcega), in a fierce, six-hour naval battle, on December 14, 1600, with the Dutch privateers Mauritius and Concordia under Admiral Oliver Van Noort off the Batangas coast.

The San Diego, as a result of damage by numerous cannonballs it had taken during the battle and a major leak discovered after the violent impact with the four times smaller Mauritius of Van Noort, was blown by a northeasterly wind, sailing 330 to 660 ft. (100 to 200 m.), nosed over and went straight to the bottom.  The San Bartoleme, on the other hand, chased the Concordia under Captain Lambert Biesman and, off Lubang Island in Mindoro, was boarded and captured.   Some 221 sailors died (109 Spaniards, 105 Filipinos and 7 Dutchmen).    Twenty-six Dutch men were wounded.

Paintings depicting the Galleon Trade

The San Diego remained underwater for almost four centuries, its location unknown because Morga’s account of the battle, in his self-serving Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas (“Historical Events of the Philippine Islands” (published in 1609), was incomplete and inaccurate.  In 1991, however, the wreck was discovered by Franck Goddio, a French underwater archaeology enthusiast, with the permission and cooperation of the National Museum, in near-perfect conditions, at 170 ft. (50 m.) deep waters about 900 m. northeast of Fortune Island, in an undisturbed, sand-covered valley.

Tools from the San Diego

From January 1992 to May 1993, at enormous expense and with modern and sophisticated underwater technology, a treasure trove of 34,000 archaeological items, including 14 bronze cannons, 1,500 pieces of intact Ming Dynasty porcelain ware and navigational instruments (a major scientific find as they represent a much delayed, but altogether appropriate, reply to Chinese inventions such as the compass, an 11th century Chinese innovation), were retrieved.

Statuary from the Intramuros Administration collection

After initial restoration in Manila, the artifacts traveled to Paris (France) for complete restoration and exhibition on September 1994.  Later exhibitions were done in Madrid (Spain) in 1995, New York (U.S.A.) in 1996 and Darhlen Museum in Berlin (Germany) in 1997 before  it returned to its new home at the Museum of the Filipino People (now the National Museum of Anthropology) in Manila.

Check out “National Museum of Anthropology”  and “Museum of the Filipino People”

Piece of armor, shoulder and neck armor, breastplate

The exhibition gallery on the ground floor shows the wreck site.  Eleven of the 14 recovered cannons brought on board from the fortress of Manila are displayed at the museum’s ground floor and the rest at the second floor. Outstanding examples of bronze casting techniques, the cannons gave an excellent overview of artillery at the end of the 16th century.  Of the 14, 7 are dolphin-types (with handles shaped like dolphins), 2 are foot-types, 1 lion-type, 1 box-type and 2 are unidentified.  Their maximum lengths range from 208 to 359 cms., their mouth diameters range from 14.5 to 27.5 cms. and their bore diameters range from 7 to 18 cms.. They were fabricated in the Philippines, Flanders (Netherlands) and Portugal. Those from Portugal were more advanced and were called breech loaders.

Cannons and cannon balls from the San Diego

There were 8 grades of caliber which required different types of ammunition.  There were 197 cannonballs recovered.  The iron cannonballs were for the smaller cannons and the stone for the bigger ones.  The cannonballs range from 6.5 to 14 cms. in diameter and weighed between one and 7 kgs..

Wooden angel and ciborium from the Intramuros Administration collection

The second floor gallery houses Metal Age artifacts from religious art (statuary, wooden angels, ciborium, etc.) from the Intramuros Administration collection.  A scaled model of the San Diego was done in 1995 by Robert Carpentier, with scientific supervision of G. Michel L’Hour and Michel Daeffer).

Kyle, Bryan and Cheska behind a scaled model of the San Diego

There are also eight 4 ft. by 7 ft. paintings depicting the Galleon Trade; annotated (by Jose Rizal) book copies of Antonio de Morga’s Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas (Historical Events of the Philippine Islands) and Johann Ludwig Gottfried’s Nene Welt und Amerikanishe Historien (New World and the History of the Americas); maps and colored photos of the recovery efforts.

Copies of Sucesos de llas Islas Filipinas

An old, bronze astrolabe, one of the most important treasures recovered from the San Diego, is one of only 67 that have been preserved and, more uniquely, 1 of 5 oldest as well as 1 of 6 or 7 known examples dating before 1600.  Called the oldest scientific instrument in the world, the astrolabe is used to determine latitude accurately by measuring the angle a heavenly body (sun or stars) makes with the horizon. It is derived from the planispheric astrolabe invented by Greek mathematicians in ancient Alexandria (Egypt).

The San Diego astrolabe

The astrolabe appeared in Europe in the late fifteenth century, first used in Portugal and adapted by nearly all Western mariners.  The San Diego astrolabe weighed 2,432 gms. and had a diameter of 182.5 mm. and was 17 mm. thick at the top and 18 mm. at the bottom.

The absence of a date and signature on makes it impossible to determine the astrolabe’s geographic origin or date of manufacture.  The instrument, however, bears a remarkable resemblance to the Valencia astrolabe at England’s Greenwich Maritime Museum (which almost certainly came from the Spanish Armada).  The only difference is that its spokes have footers and no handles.  Its similarities lead us to believe that they were made in the same workshop.

Astronomical ring

Another important discovery was a bronze astronomical ring, the only known example of this type, in terms of both mechanism and shape.  With three rings and central compass, it has a diameter of 22.4 cm. Its exact function has not been determined; although it is known that the position of the Philippines on the map was calculated using a similar instrument.  The compass was recovered with its glass intact and the original liquid still present inside the glass casing.  Other navigational instruments recovered include sounding weights and a ruler which were more suitable for reading charts and navigating in coastal waters than for open ocean voyages.

Rifle and arquebus

Aside from the cannons, little remains of ship’s offensive weaponry:  arquebuses, muskets and swords.  Arquebus spring shots (lead, brass or iron wire) range from 0.4 to 3.5 cms. in diameter.  Also found were a gunpowder shovel and cases for musket shot made of lead that were attached together by brass coil.

Sword handles

A glimpse of the soldier’s outfit came from 3 morions (military helmets of copper alloy), pieces of armor (shoulder and neck armor, breastplate), sword handles, belts and shoe buckles.  Also a ball mold to press musket and arquebus balls was found.

The 3 morions (military helmets)

The possibility of high ranking Japanese samurai (possibly mercenaries) on board the ship can be seen from a pair of recovered Japanese bushi swords, 2 dozen sword decorative elements, a writing set with a rare aubergine (fruit of the eggplant)-shaped porcelain water dropper and two stones for mixing ink.

Japanese katana

The San Diego was a galleon (trading ship) before she was pressed into service as a battleship by Antonio de Morga.  As preparations were being rushed to meet the Dutch, there had been no time to unload the bulky porcelain cargo in the main hold and these all went down with the ship.  To the Western world, Chinese porcelain seems to be the most accurate reflection of China and it was an important part of trade in Manila.

Dragon jars

The San Diego carried a cargo of assorted ceramic objects that survived in a much better condition than the metal objects. A majority of the recovered ceramic ware was intact and many pieces were restorable.

Blue and white Chinese porcelain

They include a precious cargo of more than 500 fine, exceptionally strong, blue and white China porcelain, of different shapes and sizes, with designs described to be of Buddhist and Taoist luck symbols. They date from the Wan Li Period (1573 to 1619) of the Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1644) and come in the form of plates, dishes, bottles and kendis (pitchers).

Dragon jars

This special class of pottery is made from kaolin from Jiangxi, near the city of Jingdezhen in China.  Their white background is decorated principally with cobalt oxide and applied with a brush under a glaze. The plates, bowls, cups and bottles  were mostly decorated with birds, cocks, geese and deer designs which were popular during the 16th century.

At Exhibit Gallery III, we took a look at some of the over 750 big Martaban, Chinese, Thai, Burmese and Spanish or Mexican stoneware jars used to store food (preserved fruits, sardines, salted meat, etc.), wine, vinegar, drinking water and cargo as well as serve as ballast.  They date from the sixteenth century and many have applied handles where a rope could be strung to secure and protect them from breaking.  Animal bones from preserved meats as well as coconut shells and seed (prunes and chestnuts) remains have been found inside the jars.

Kendis, earthenware pitchers with round bodies, wide neck and conical spout

There are also over 70 Philippine-made amphora-like earthenware jars influenced by European stylistic forms and types. They were originally used to transport olives and oil, but they also have been used to hold wine, preserved fruit or the tar used to caulk the ship.  Their capacity varied from 4 to 15 liters (4.2 to 15.9 quarts) and they weighed between 3 and 9 kgs. (6.6 to 19.8 lbs.).

Many recovered artifacts provide fascinating insights of life on board a galleon.  Recovered were a piece of rope made of Manila hemp; a wooden pulley; writing implements (3 inkstands, 2 powder cans with powder used to dry the ink, a metal pen, etc.); a silver candle snuffer; a bronze candlestick; ivory and wood chessmen; locks; keys; a well-preserved wood pole with a hammock tied to it; a hammer; a glass plate with wooden frame (probably from the captain’s cabin); barber’s kit (2 razors, various weights, remains of a beam balance); and a block of hardened resin that was noted, in historical accounts, to have been used in caulking and for making fire in stoves. Also recovered were two coral-encrusted iron anchors.

Rope and wooden pulley

A meager haul of 8 gold artifacts was also recovered.  They provide a rare look at ornaments of 16th century Philippines and, ultimately, an insight into the Spanish and Filipinos of that time.  One of the artifacts is an Asian coin while the rest are articles of personal adornment or functional objects crafted in gold: a neck ring of gold wire with scrolled clasp; a 78-inch long, multiple loop-in-loop necklace chain woven with fine gold wire; a dress ornament; a book clasp with pin for girdle prayer book; a ring with granulation; an oval document seal cap of Morga (which “seals” the positive identification of the wreck); and a rosary with ivory beads and an inverted crucifix and chain of gold wire.  None were stamped or hallmarked.

The rosary, girdle prayer book and the ring may have been made for women.  Were there women on board the San Diego? Initial studies on human bones recovered from the site indicate that some of them may have been females.  Or were they good luck keepsakes given by shore-bound lovers?  God only knows.

A total of 428 sixteenth century silver coins, as well as six small and one big cluster of cemented coins, were recovered.  Most are of uneven roundness and flatness and its markings and designs are unclear.  Struck the year before its sinking (either in Mexico or Potosi), the majority are 1, 2, 4 and 8 reales of American origin, an indication of the lively trade between New Spain (Mexico) and the Philippines.

“San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit”: 1/F and 2/F,  National Museum of Anthropology, Agrifina Circle (or Teodoro  Valencia Circle, adjacent to the National Museum of Fine Arts building),Padre Burgos Drive, Rizal Park, Ermita, Manila. Tel: (02) 8528-4912 (02) 8527-1232 (Ethnology Division) and (02) 8527-0278. E-mail: nationalmuseumph@gmail.com and nationalmuseumph.anthropology@gmail.com.  Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission is free.

National Museum of Anthropology (Manila)

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National Museum of Anthropology

I first visited the National Museum of Anthropology (Filipino: Pambansang Museo ng Antropolohiya), a component museum of the National Museum of the Philippines,  when it was formerly known as the Museum of the Filipino People (Filipino: Museo ng Lahing Filipino) in March 2002.  Fifteen years later, I brought now along my whole family to see its Ethnological and Archaeological exhibitions.

Check out “Museum of the Filipino People”

The museums Neo-Classical facade

Housed in the impressive, Neo-Classic-influenced, 5-storey former Department of Commerce and Department of Finance Building, this museum was the second building pledged (1990s) to the National Museum.  As a cultural center, it takes the lead in the study and preservation of the nation’s rich artistic, historical and cultural heritage in the reconstruction and rebuilding of our nation’s past.

Historical plaque

Built in 1940 on the same Federal architectural style concept of American architect and Manila and Baguio City planner Daniel H. Burnham, its construction was implemented by Arch. Antonio Toledo of the Bureau of Public Works who was responsible for the construction of Manila government structures (including the Manila City Hall, Bureau of Customs and Department of Tourism Building) under the American colonial regime.

Jandy in front of the Ifugao house within the courtyard

When World War II broke out on December 7, 1941, the building was barely finished and, during the Liberation of Manila, the building, because of its strategic location, became a Japanese stronghold that was intensely bombarded by the Americans.  On March 3, 1945, its recapture actually marked the end of the Battle of Manila.

Marble Hall

After the war, the trapezoidal building was rebuilt by the company of A.M. Oreta and, during the centennial celebration of Philippine independence half a century later, the building was refurbished and inaugurated to house the Museum of the Filipino People. At the open courtyard is an actual Ifugao House (Fhaley Ad Henenga) from Mayoyao presented by Petron Corporation.

Stairway

Since the creation of the National Museum of the Philippines, the Anthropology Division has started collecting ethnographic artifacts. Anthropologist Dr. Henry Otley Beyer began collecting cultural materials from the different peoples of the Philippines ranging from baskets, weapons, textiles, and wooden objects to various religious, economic and agricultural tools and implements, musical instruments and personal ornaments and adornments. During the World War II, these artifacts were distributed to friends and colleagues for safekeeping and, several years after the war, Dr. Beyer began to retrieve all these materials, finding most to be intact and in good condition except for some that were badly damaged.

My family (at extreme left, L-R: Kyle, Jandy, Grace, Cheska and Bryan) at one of the exhibition galleries

Ground Floor

  • Office of the Exhibition, Editorial, and Media Production Services Division
  • Office of the Museum Foundation of the Philippines
  • Office of the Archaeology Division
  • Office of the Ethnology Division
  • Office of the Maritime and Underwater Cultural Heritage Division
  • National Museum Library

Second Floor

  • Marble Hall- serves as the lobby of the museum
  • The San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit
  • Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade

Third Floor

  • Lantaka: Of War and Peace – inaugurated in 2015
  • Manlilikha ng Bayan Hall (National Living Treasure) – inaugurated last June 1, 2016
  • Lumad: Mindanao – inaugurated last December 12, 2015
  • Faith, Tradition and Place: Bangsamoro Art from the National Ethnographic Collection – inaugurated last October 2014
  • Kaban ng Lahi (Archaeological Treasures)

NOTE: On October 20, 2018, just about a year after my visit, the “Biyay: Traditional Ecological Knowledge among Philippine Negrito Communities” exhibit was opened in the third floor, the first exhibition, of this scale and depth, on the Negritos, the least understood Philippine ethnolinguistic group. Biyay is the Ayta term for “life.”

Fourth Floor

  • Reception Hall (Changing Gallery)
  • Rice, Biodiversity and Climate Change – inaugurated last December 17, 2013
  • Hibla ng Lahing Filipino: The Artistry of Philippine Textiles – inaugurated last May 18, 2012
  • Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines – inaugurated in 2013
  • Entwined Spheres: Mats and Baskets as Containers, Costumes and Conveyors – inaugurated in 2017
  • Office of the Museum Services Division

Fifth Floor

  • National Ethnographic Collection Repositories

A hagabi (rich mans bench)

Through the years, the ethnographic collection of the Anthropology Division continues to be augmented through field collection, purchase and donation. Presently, there are about ten thousand specimens on display in 15 galleries and in storage.

Check out “The San Diego: A Homecoming Exhibit,” “Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade,” “Manlilikha ng Bayan Hall (National Living Treasure),” “Lumad: Mindanao,” “Faith, Tradition and Place: Bangsamoro Art from the National Ethnographic Collection,” “Kaban ng Lahi: Archaeological Treasures,” “Rice, Biodiversity and Climate Change,” “Hibla ng Lahing Filipino: The Artistry of Philippine Textiles,” “Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines,”“Lantaka: Of War and Peace,” “Entwined Spheres: Mats and Baskets as Containers, Costumes and Conveyors.”

 The ethnographic collection, systematically arranged according to groups and classified in terms of functions, is kept in storage where the temperature of the room is maintained through a 24-hour airconditioning system that helps preserve the physical condition of the specimens, and prolongs the lifespan of the specimens. Textile specimens are stored inside cabinets with series of drawers while wooden objects, baskets, ceramic and metal crafts are wrapped in acid-free paper, and stored in steel cabinets with series of panels.

National Museum of Anthropology: Agrifina Circle (or Teodoro Valencia Circle, adjacent to the National Museum of Fine Arts building),Padre Burgos Drive, Rizal Park, Ermita, Manila. Tel: (02) 8528-4912 (02) 8527-1232 (Ethnology Division) and (02) 8527-0278. E-mail: nationalmuseumph@gmail.com and nationalmuseumph.anthropology@gmail.com. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission is free.

“Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines” Exhibit (Manila)

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The “Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines” Exhibit, inaugurated in 2013, is the second permanent exhibit of the National Museum of Anthropology.  It showcases Baybayin, the ancient and traditional native Filipino script of the Philippines prior to the arrival of the Spaniards. It is an abugida system wherein consonant-vowel combinations are used, and it is different from alibata (although most people think they are one and the same).

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“Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines” Exhibit

This pre-Spanish Philippine writing system, a member of the Brahmic scripts of India, was recorded, by Miguel López de Legazpi, as being in use in the 16th century and continued to be used during the Spanish colonization of the Philippines up until the late 19th century.  Baybayin was largely used in Tagalog-speaking areas and the term baybay literally means “to spell” in Tagalog. However, it gained more prominence when it was used and spread by the friars to other areas and it was known in Visayan as badlit, as kur-itan/kurditan in Ilocano and as kulitan in Kapampangan. Hanunuo, Buhid and Tagbanwa are some of the writing systems that are based on baybayin.

One of the exhibit’s major displays is the majestic curtain written in Baybayin scripts and its Romanized translation, and the other one is the white table in which it teaches us on how to write Baybayin characters (Magsulat Tayo sa Ating Baybayin).

Baybayin Tattoos

Also displayed here are archaeological artifacts such as the Laguna Copperplate Inscription (said to be one of the bases of baybayin), the Calatagan Pot, the Intramuros Pot Shard, the Monreal Stones and some books loaned by the UST, NHCP and National Library. Also displayed are some tools, musical instruments, ornaments and pots with Baybayin inscriptions from indigenous tribes of Mindoro and Palawan.

Baybayin script

The Intramuros Pot Shard, one of 500 artifacts discovered 140 cms. below the brick floor of the San Ignacio Church ruins in Intramuros in 2008, is an archaeological piece most significant because it was the only artifact with ancient inscriptions recovered systematically. Associated with Ming dynasty ceramics dating back to 15th – 16th centuries A.D, the excavation was a joint project by the Intramuros Administration and the Cultural and Archaeology Divisions of the National Museum of the Philippines.

Intarmuros Pot Shard

Its discovery, showing the native Filipinos’ earliest form of writing, is an important milestone in Philippine archaeology as there were only few artifacts with ancient inscription recovered in the past: the Laguna copper plate (900 AD), Butuan ivory seal (9th to 12th centuries), Butuan silver strip (14th to 15th centuries) and the Calatagan Pot (15th century).  The inscription was later deciphered by Mrs. Esperanza B. Gatbonton, a Cultural Heritage Advocate, by comparing the scripts with Tagalog and Kapampangan and coming up with a tentative translation – pa-la-ki which can be interpreted as a-la-ke or alay kay.

The Monreal Stones (Filipino: Mga Batong Monreal), also referred to as the Ticao Stones, are two limestone tablets that contain Baybayin characters discovered by pupils of Rizal Elementary School in Monreal town on Ticao Island, Masbate, who had scraped the mud off their shoes and slippers on an irregular-shaped limestone tablet before entering their classroom.

Monreal Stones

The larger, triangular stone, weighing 30 kgs., is 11 cms. thick, 54 cms. long and 44 cms. wide. The smaller, oval-shaped stone is 6 cms. thick, 20 cms. long and 18 cm. wides. On December 13, 2013, the National Museum of the Philippines held a Baybayin conference to present the Monreal Stones to the public. Due to the usage of the Baybayin vowel deleter introduced in 1621 by the Spanish friars, initial examination has revealed that the inscriptions could not have been made earlier than the 17th century.

The Laguna copperplate inscription (Tagalog: Kasulatang tansong natagpuan sa Laguna), the earliest known calendar-dated document used within the Philippine Islands, is an official document, more precisely an acquittance, inscribed in the Shaka year 822, a date, from the month of Waisaka, and the fourth day of the waning moon, from the old Hindu calendar, which corresponds to to Monday, April 21, 900 in the Julian calendar.

It was found in 1989, near the mouth of the Lumbang River, near Laguna de Bay in Wawa, Lumban, Laguna, by a laborer dredging sand to turn into concrete. Suspecting that the artifact might have some value, the man sold it to an antique dealer who, having found no buyers, eventually sold it to the National Museum of the Philippines, where it was assigned to Alfredo E. Evangelista, head of its anthropology department.

Laguna Copperplate Inscription

Referred to as the Laguna Copper Plate by the National Museum, it is a document demonstrative of pre-Hispanic literacy and culture and is considered to be a National Treasure.  The inscription on the plate was written in Old Malay using the ancient Indonesian script of Kawi, with numerous loanwords from Sanskrit and a few non-Malay vocabulary elements whose origin may be Old Javanese . After it was found, the text was first translated by Antoon Postma, a Dutch anthropologist and Hanunó’o script researcher in 1991.  The inscription documents the existence and names of several surrounding states such as the Tagalog city-state of Tondo.

Made out of copper, the inscription, measuring about 20 by 30 cms. (7.9 in × 11.8 in), with the words directly embossed onto the plate differs, in manufacture, from Javanese scrolls of the period, which had the words inscribed onto a heated, softened metal scroll.

The Calatagan Pot was, during the pre-Hispanic era, a ritual earthenware pot with thirty-nine syllabic inscriptions incised around its shoulder, representing one of the oldest surviving writing systems in the country. This artifact, with  a restricted mouth, an everted rim, and an indentation at the center base, measures 12 cms. in height, 20.2 cms. in width, with a rim diameter of 14.8 cms., and weighing 872 grams. The pot was given a relative age range of 14th to 15th century CE based on alleged associated artifacts.

Calatagan Pot

The artifact was found in Talisay, Calatagan, Batangas by farmer Feliciano Bugtong who sold it to the Research Foundation in Philippine Anthropology and Archaeology, Inc.  In May 1961, ithe foundation donated the pot to the National Museum of the Philippines.  In 2010, the Calatagan Ritual Pot was declared a National Cultural Treasure.

The pot was particularly used as native incense burner for the pag-ulî (return) ceremony rite to retrieve the soul of moribund victims of bugkut, disappeared persons believed to have been abducted by dwellers of the spirit world.  The inscription essentially provides the outline of a three-stage monologue, presumably elaborated by a babaylan (a native shaman and usually female) in a trance during the pag-ulî ritual.

The Doctrina Christiana (English: Christian Doctrine), an early book on the Catholic Catechism, written in 1593 by Fray Juan de Plasencia, is believed to be one of the earliest printed books in the Philippines. The title, literally meaning “The Teachings of Christianity” is, thus, the primary goal of the book was to propagate Christian teaching across the Philippine archipelago.

The book, printed using the xylographic technique (printing each page of text from one hand carved woodblock) on paper made from mulberry, consists of 38 leaves and 74 pages of text in Spanish, Tagalog transliterated into roman letters, and Tagalog in its original Tagalog Baybayin (Sulat Tagalog) script, under a woodcut of Saint Dominic, with the verso originally blank although, in contemporary versions, bears the manuscript inscription “Tassada en dos reales,” signed Juan de Cuellar. The size of the volume, which is unbound, is 9⅛ by 7 inches, although individual leaves vary somewhat due to chipping.

After a syllabary comes the basic prayers (the Lord’s Prayer, Hail Mary, Credo, and the Salve Regina) followed by Articles of Faith, the Ten Commandments, Commandments of the Holy Church, Sacraments of the Holy Church, Seven Mortal Sins, Fourteen Works of Charity, the Confiteor and a brief Catechism.

Hanunoo Mangyan script carved into bamboo

Also on display are musical instruments, containers and weapons inscribed with chants and messages. These bamboo strips were used to relay messages among members of Hanunuo and Buhid. Messages include invitation to wedding and special occasions and letters of request and notification, which were carried by anyone passing by or going to the destination of the message.

The members of Hanunuo, men and women, had an average of 4 bamboo lime containers. They were responsible for making, carving and designing their own container. Male young adults used to give bamboo lime containers to the females they admired and wished to be in a relationship with.

Tagbanua script carved into anitos (wooden idols)

“Baybayin: Ancient and Traditional Scripts of the Philippines” Exhibit: 4/F, National Museum of Anthropology, Agrifina Circle (or Teodoro Valencia Circle, adjacent to the National Museum of Fine Arts building),Padre Burgos Drive, Rizal Park, Ermita, Manila. Tel: (02) 8528-4912 and (02) 8527-0278. E-mail: nationalmuseumph@gmail.com. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission is free.

Calauit Safari Park (Busuanga, Palawan)

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Calauit Safari Park

Part of the Sophia’s Garden Resort-sponsored tour

We all woke up 4 AM early in the morning as we were to slated to experience one of Coron’s as well as the country’s popular eco-tourism attractions – the 3,760-hectare Calauit Safari Park. Formerly known as Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary, it would be the closest we would get to an African safari.

Check out “Calauit Island Game Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary“

Malecachiao Pier

It was still raining when we all boarded our van (4:30 AM) for our 2-hour drive to Macalachao Pier in Salvacion, Busuanga, arriving there by 6:30 AM.  The pier has a souvenir shop selling really beautiful Calauit T-shirts. Here, we all had our packed breakfast before proceeding on our short, 10-minute motorized boat ride to Calauit Island.

Boat ride to Calauit Island

This would be my second visit to this island, the first happening nearly 25 years ago (February 25, 1995 to be exact) with my mother and sister Tellie.  We went there all the way by a motorized outrigger boat from Club Paradise Resort in Dimakya Island.

Calauit Island

Making landfall at Calauit Island

Located just off Busuanga Island’s northwestern coast, this park was established on August 21, 1976 by Presidential Proclamation 1578 issued by the late Pres. Ferdinand Marcos and opened to tourists since 1985.  To transform it into a savanna, the island residents were relocated and its bamboo forests were cleared to provide a suitable environment for the animals.

Information Center

Park rates

Upon arrival, we were all requested to sign up on the registration area of the Information Center and, from here, we walked a short distance (the tour truck, the park’s safari vehicle, wasn’t available), accompanied by our local guide Orlando “Orlan” Cruz, to where the animals grazed.  It had stopped raining by then.

Briefing with guide Orlando “Orlan” Cruz (right)

At the time of my 1995 visit, the park still had 8 species of herbivores from northern Kenya (Africa) comprising 43 Reticulated Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis reticulata), 78 Grévy’s zebra (Equus grevyi) and 6 types of antelopes –  155 Impala (Aepyceros melampus), two Thomson’s gazelle (Eudorcas thomsonii), 122 Waterbuck (Kobus ellipsiprymnus), 50 Common Eland (Taurotragus oryx), 14 Topi (Damaliscus lunatus jimela) and 16 Bushbucks (Tragelaphus sylvaticus).

A pair of Gervy’s Zebras

Since my first visit, the original individuals imported from Africa have all died, leaving behind only the offspring of the Reticulated giraffes, Grevy’s zebras, waterbucks and common elands (the Thompson gazelles, bushbucks  topis and impalas have all died because of infighting and poaching), which were all born in Calauit.

A small herd of Reticulated Giraffe

Of the remaining four species, we only spotted some the 24 zebras and the 32 giraffes (the 14 waterbucks and elands are shy and prefer to distance themselves from tourists).  The giraffes, captivating us with their magnificent colors, stood tall in full regal and charm while the zebras, with their black and white stripes, looked so classic.

Celine and Gabrielle bonding with a giraffe at the Feeding Station

The highlight of the tour was the Feeding Station.  Here, within an enclosed pen, we got to feed the giraffes with leaves from the bakawang gubat or malwandit (Carallia borneensis) provided by Orlan and got up close to them, something I wasn’t allowed to do during my first visit.

The author up close and personal with a giraffe

This was my first time close encounter with this graceful and beautiful animal, among the iconic and the tallest land animal in the world. The giraffes have names such as Isabel (the biggest giraffe of the lot), Miller, Terrence and Mylene, all named after their sponsors.

Calamian Deer

Though the giraffes and zebras are the crowd favorites, there were other animals in the sanctuary too. We also saw local, critically-endangered Calamian Deer (Hyelaphus calamianensis) grazing with the giraffes and zebras.

Palawan Bearded Pig

Philippine Porcupine

We also observed, in their pens, pools and cages in the mini zoo, the Philippine crocodile (Crocodylus mindorensis) , the Philippine porcupine (Hystrix pumila) , freshwater turtles, reticulated python, leopard cats, the Palawan bearded pig (Sus ahoenobarbus) and the Philippine macaque.

The author besides a camouflage tree

There was also a tree they called the camouflage tree because it looks like the camouflage uniform of servicemen.

Philippine Freshwater Crocodile

Leopard Cat

Today, the park now faces a number of challenges. The number of workers in the park has dwindled from 300 to 30 dues to budget cuts. The former inhabitants (mostly from tribes of Tagbanwas) of the peninsula who were relocated decades ago are returning via the Balik-Calauit movement. Currently, The provincial government is still reaching out to settle the disputes between the locals and the authorities in the park.

A pair of freshwater turtles

Philippine Macaque

Reticulated Python

Calauit Safari Park: Brgy. Salvacion, Busuanga.  Mobile number: (0926) 114-4443 (Mr. Froilan Sariego – park manager). Admission: PhP200 (Filipinos) and PhP400 (foreigners).  Use of tour truck: PhP1,000/2 hours (divided by how many you are in the group, maximum capacity is 20 pax). Feeding time of the giraffes is from 7 -9:30 AM. The Calauit Office is closed on Saturdays and Sundays and all tours desired to be taken from Saturday to Monday mornings should be reserved by Friday afternoon. All reservations received later than Friday afternoon will be confirmed Monday morning at 10 AM.

Sophia’s Garden Resort: 5 Dinagpan Rd., Sitio Jolo, Brgy. Poblacion 5, Governor’s Dr., Coron, 5316 Palawan. Tel: (048) 723-1871.  Mobile numbers: (0917) 543-5775 and (0939) 915-0274. E-mail: sophiasgardenresort@gmail.com. Website: www.sophiasgardenresort.com. You can also follow them on Facebook: Sophia’s Garden Resort

“Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade” Exhibit (Manila)

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Seized African elephant tusks (Tanzania, Africa)

The “Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade” Exhibition supports the National Museum of the Philippines’ advocacy against ivory trade that has led to elephants worldwide becoming endangered.  Ivory or garing, in Filipino, is a hard white material derived from the teeth of animals, particularly from elephants.

Check out “National Museum of Anthropology“

Elephant tusks recovered from Lena Shoal Wreck off Busuanga, Palawan

On display are real African elephant (Loxodonta Africana) ivory tusks from Tanzania, Africa, seized by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and donated to the National Museum of the Philippines.  There are also elephant tusks, among 5,000 artifacts (small bronze cannons and celadon greenware, 2,183 of which were recovered whole, 213 slightly damaged and 1,501 heavily damaged), dating from the 15th to early 16th century, recovered from the Lena Shoal wreck in Busuanga, north of Palawan in 1997.

Fragments of fossilized elephant tusks (Solana, Kalinga-Apayao, Bolinao)

Also on display are heritage ivory that were carved and installed in the faces and hands of statues of Roman Catholic saints as well as snuff bottles; fragments of fossilized elephant tusks recovered from  Cagayan (Taggat, Solana), Kalinga-Apayao and Pangasinan (Bolinao);. a fossilized ivory tusk of a Stegodon, an extinct species of proboscidean (the same family of species as the elephant and mammoth), recovered from the Kalinga–Solana area in the Cagayan Valley; sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) teeth (whole) from Torrijos,  Marinduque; model of a ship with ivory men; and wild pig (Sus philippensis) tusks from Penablanca, Cagayan.

Shell and Bone (Substitutes for Ivory)

Synthetic Ivory

There are also carvings made from ivory substitutes such as resins, compact bones (dahlite, protein, lipids)of domesticated animals; shells (calcium carbonate) of marine mollusks; vegetable ivory (cellulose) from the tagua palm tree (Phytelephas spp) found in South America;  the casque (keratin) above the beak of the Helmeted Hornbill (rhinoplax vigil); a shell pendant, bracelet and earring; bone letter opener with Carabao horn handle; bone chopsticks; snake bone headdress (Mountain Province); a cow bone carving; bone jewelry box with decorative motifs; an elephant bone with inscriptions; a boar tusk armband (Mountain Province) and bone pendants.

Blessed Virgin Mary (unknown artist)

“Garing: The Philippines at the Crossroads of Ivory Trade” Exhibit: 2/F, National Museum of Anthropology, Agrifina Circle (or Teodoro Valencia Circle, adjacent to the National Museum of Fine Arts building),Padre Burgos Drive, Rizal Park, Ermita, Manila. Tel: (02) 8528-4912 (02) 8527-1232 (Ethnology Division) and (02) 8527-0278. E-mail: nationalmuseumph@gmail.com and nationalmuseumph.anthropology@gmail.com. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission is free.

Virgin Island (Panglao, Bohol)

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Virgin Island

Part of the Panglao Bluewater Resort-sponsored CountrysideTour

The next day, after a buffet breakfast at the resort’s Aplaya Restaurant, we boarded a motorized outrigger boat just off the beach from the resort for our half-day, two island (Virgin Island and Balicasag Island) hopping tour.

Making landfall

A 15-20 minute boat ride brought us to Virgin Island, a 1-hectare (during low tide) stretch of white sandbar with small patches of mangroves, grass and coconut trees and surrounded by clear, shallow (the water is only up to your shins) waters and sea grass.  Walking to its far end, you will find lots and lots of red and blue starfish.

The author at Virgin Island.  Behind are makeshift stalls

Virgin Island turned out to be a “tourist trap” as a number of makeshift stalls have been set up there, selling pricey sea food such as fresh, edible abalone, soft and crunchy sea cucumber, tuna and sea urchins (swaki) as well as buko (coconut) drinks, banana-Q, fish ball, squid ball and snacks. Jewelry hawkers, who follow you around (they can’t seem to take “no” for an answer), also sell pearls (in its natural state or mounted as earrings, bracelets or necklaces).

The crystal-clear, shallow waters

Our tour boat only allowed us 15-20 minutes of stay before we headed to our next destination. It is best to go here early in the morning, tide permitting, as it can be a little too hot when the sun is already shining so bright.  Bring sunblock lotion.

An isolated patch of mangroves …….

There are no nipa huts or umbrella shades on the island. The island is not really a snorkeling spot of note. The sea grass beds only have a few shoals of very small fish but off the beds are loads of jack fish.

A piece of driftwood

Across the island is Isola di Francesco (“Island of St. Francis”) on Pungtud (or Pontod) Island. Owned by Mr. Ramon Rodriguez, a devotee of Italian Capuchin monk St. Pio (Francesco Forgione) of Pietrelcina, it has a chapel, a visitor’s center, a mini museum (filled with photos of the Francescan friars), a few restrooms, water tanks, guest houses and several religious sculptures of angels, cherubs, and the Holy Family. It is not often included in the island hopping packages.

Isola de Francesco

There’s nothing much you can do here except for a short photo ops and taking selfies. They should change the name of this Island. Not a virgin at all.  Like many beautiful spots on the Earth, this island has been ruined for commercial reasons but, minus the flocks of tourists, parked boats and the makeshift stalls, the island could be a great place to just sit and relax and enjoy the solitude.

A solitary mangrove……..

Island Hopping Rates (boat rental only): PhP2,300 (1-4 pax) and PhP2,750 (5-10 pax).

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Balilihan, Bohol)

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Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

Part of the Panglao Bluewater Resort-sponsored CountrysideTour

The town’s previous church, built with tabique and nipa after the 1863 typhoon, was renovated in 1889 but burned, together with the convent, the municipio (municipal building), the school building for boys and girls as well as private houses, by the Americans on November 12, 1900 even when all the town’s officials, led by Capitan Antonio Racho, came out to meet the soldiers with a brass band.  Only the separate, hilltop bell tower was spared.

The left side of the church

The present church, built in the early 20th century with poured concrete, has a cruciform plan with a squat octagonal cupola..  It has a nave divided into three aisles, and a portico, with a central bell tower, in front of the façade.

The portico with the bell tower above it

The church’s original three-storey square bell tower, on Mt. Carmel Hill overlooking the plaza, can be reached by climbing 104 concrete steps.

The 104 concrete steps leading up Mt. Carmel Hill

It was started in 1835 by Augustinian Recollect Fr. Antonio Cortes using cut coral stones gathered in Baclayon, and inaugurated in 1846.

The restored coral stone bell tower

Over time, exposure to the elements slowly eroded the surface of the belfry. A not-so-faithful restoration was done on the structure, its surface patched with irregularly cut stones, put in place with cement.

Bas relief at tower wall

The 7.2 magnitude earthquake of October 15, 2013, totally toppled the restored structure.   It has since been faithfully reconstructed with the help of the National Museum.

The tower entrance

Its hip roof, with wide overhangs, is supported by carved corbels. The tower’s arched openings are decorated by scroll work and floral designs. Its bells have been removed and installed in the bell tower in front of the church at the foot of the hill.

The church interior with ceiling paintings by Ray Francia

Inside the church are ceiling murals of representations of Heaven, the Sacraments, saints and holy scenes, some done by Cebuano artist Ray Francia (the “Michaelangelo of Cebu”).

The choir loft area

The altars combine Corinthian columns, Neo-Gothic spires and crockets, Baroque volutes and Art Deco open work.

The main altar area

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel: Balilihan-Sikatuna Provincial Rd., Balilihan 6342, Bohol.  Feast of Our Lady of Mount Carmel: July 16.

How to Get There: Balilihan is located 21.5 kms. (a 30-min. drive) northeast of Tagbilaran City (through CPG North Ave.) and 19.7 kms. northeast via Corella (through J.A. Clarin St.).

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Ermita Ruins (Dimiao, Bohol)

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The Ermita Ruins

Part of the Panglao Bluewater Resort-sponsored CountrysideTour

The 1,000 sq. m. ruins of the Spanish-era Ermita (Spanish for “church” or “hermitage”), situated parallel to the nave of the Church of St. Nicholas Tolentine, are the ruins of a coralline limestone structure built between 1800 and 1815 by Fr. Enrique de Santo de Villanueva. During the Spanish period, people were not allowed to hold wakes in their houses so they took their dead to Ermita instead.

It was allegedly used as a military fortress, a chapel and a burial site for members of the Spanish clergy. In 1844, due to its proximity to the church (which was deemed unhealthy), the cemetery was closed by Fr. Manuel Carasusan

In 1995 and 1998, archaeological excavations were done by the National Museum in a quest to uncover its mysterious past. At this burial site, the researchers discovered skeletons buried facing east, not properly arranged but just laid on top of each other (suggesting there was a mass burial), and human teeth remains (showing a tooth-filing tradition), suggesting a functioning cemetery.

However, they were surprised at not finding any remains in the small ossuaries or bone niches because these were considered “secondary” burial sites, which could be a carryover from the ancient Boholano practice of secondary burial. The bones found during excavation were transferred to the municipal cemetery. Every November 1 (All Saints Day), a mass is held inside Ermita Ruins for the souls of those buried there.

Ruins of the small church

On July 30, 2011, the St. Nicolas of Tolentine Church Complex, including Ermita Ruins, was declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum.

A honeycomb of burial niches

Closely resembling Paco Cemetery, its surrounding semicircular wall has at least 700 empty tombs arranged like a honeycomb, making it the only structure unique to the Philippines. The ruin of a chapel stands at the center of the Ermita. In front of the chapel is a mound where the krus dako (big wooden cross) was displayed.

The mound where the krus dako was displayed

Ermita Ruins: St. Nicolas of Tolentine Church Complex, Dimiao, Bohol.

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine (Dimiao, Bohol)

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Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine

Part of the Panglao Bluewater Resort-sponsored CountrysideTour

One of the churches severely damaged during the October 15, 2013 earthquake was the Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine in Dimiao.  The ceiling of the church received heavy cracks, the walls of both the left and right wings of the transept cracked open, and large portions of the outer stone finishes in various areas of the church exterior fell down.

As of early 2014, the structure, though still standing, was deemed unsafe to enter. Only priests and church convent authorities were allowed to enter the church. As of this writing, the church is being repaired, with scaffolding installed throughout the exterior and interior. We were allowed to enter the church.

The painted ceiling

 

The town’s present magnificent church, one of the oldest in the province, was built from 1800 to 1815 by Fr. Enrique de Santo Tomas de Villanueva with cut stone blocks. On  July 30, 2011, the church complex, including the Ermita Ruins, were declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum due to its outstanding historical, aesthetic, social and architectural significance.

Check out “Ermita Ruins“

The church has a cruciform plan with an atypically short transept. The church is the only other Spanish-era church, aside from Loon,  that was not originally built with a portico

Its powerful Early Renaissance façade, with subtle hints of baroque and Muslim influence, is divided into segments by square pilasters ornamented with a shallow octagonal relief of fine floral carvings arranged as vertical bands.  On the lower level is a semicircular main entrance (above which is the Spanish coat-of-arms) flanked by blind windows.

On the second level is a statued niche of San Nicolas Tolentino topped by a small pediment and flanked by semicircular windows.

The octagonal bell tower

The steep stone stairway leading up to the right bell tower

On the church’s flanks are two minaret-like octagonal bell towers with seven bells, the earliest dating from 1841.  The tower on the right is accessible by a steep stone staircase followed by a wooden one.

The main altar retablo

Inside are three Neo-Classical retablos, a pulpit with wrought iron banister and a spacious sacristy and choir loft.

The pulpit with wrought iron bannister

The convent, now a school behind the church,  was constructed by Fr. Manuel Carasusan (1842 to 1855 and 1858 to 1864).  Part of its ground floor has a small parish museum. It is linked to the church sacristy by a bridge-like corridor.

Left side retablo

Church of St. Nicholas of Tolentine: Poblacion, 6305 Dimiao. Tel: (038) 536-1009. Feast of St. Nicholas of Tolentine: September 10.

How to Get There: Dimiao is located 44.7 kms. (a 1-hour drive) east of Tagbilaran City.

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Church of the Holy Trinity (Loay, Bohol)

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Church of the Holy Trinity

Upon arrival in Loay, our van entered the  church complex via the short bend from the road to Loboc. This old and charming church, built on top of a plateau overlooking the sea, near the mouth of the Loboc River, is also reached by short flight of stairs from the main highway.

The church after the October 15, 2013 earthquake (photo: Wikipedia)

Built with cut coral stone, it is cruciform in plan, with a low quadrangular pyramid atop the crossing, and was probably finished in 1822. The church was recently declared as a National Cultural Treasure and National Historical Landmark in 2003.

The restored portico facade

The church has two facades: an inner (1822), decorated with low relief (atop the inner doorway is inscribed the year 1822, indicating its presumed date of completion), and an outer three-level Neo-Classical portico-façade (apparently completed in the 20th century as its upper register is in reinforced concrete).

NHI Plaque.  It states that a certain Fr. Leon Inchausti was once assigned to this parish, that he was subsequently martyred during the 1936-39 Spanish Civil War and that he was canonized in 1999 and is now a saint

It has a semicircular arched main entrance (which formerly had a Latin inscription “Deus Trinus et Unus” above it, alluding to the parish’s dedication to the Holy Trinity) at the first level, rectangular windows on the second level and a low triangular pediment topped by allegorical figures of Faith, Hope and Charity. The sides of the church are reinforced by huge buttresses.

The ceiling murals obscured by a maze of scaffolding

During the October 15, 2013 earthquake, the church’s portico-facade fell down but, during our visit, it had already been restored. Inside, there were still a lot of scaffolding with repair work still ongoing.  The painted trompe o’eil ceiling is filled with murals of Biblical scenes finished by Ray Francia on June 15, 1927.

The colonnaded main altar has a Neo-Classic retablo with images of the Holy Trinity (with God the Father seated on the right, God the Son on the left, and God the Holy Spirit in the form of a dove above them) topped by a baldaquin.

There’s also a massive pipe organ installed in 1841 and a pulpit topped by a torravoz with Neo-Gothic dome and fringed by a “lacework” of metal and wood.

Stairs leading to the choir loft

The separate, three-storey octagonal bell tower, topped by a domed roof, was built by Fr. Carlos Ubeda (1859 to 1865).  The stone and wood convent now houses the Holy Trinity Academy, founded in 1947.

The separate, 3-storey bell tower

Church of the Holy Trinity: Tel: (038) 538-9158 and (038) 501-1145. Feast of the Holy Trinity: Trinity Sunday (May).

How to Get There: Loay is located 22.1 kms. (a 30-min. drive) east of Tagbilaran City.

Bohol Tourism Office: Governor’s Mansion Compound, C.P.G. Ave. North, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Tel: +63 38 501-9186.  E-mail: inquire@boholtourismph.com.

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd., Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.