The Cave City of Vardzia (Georgia)

Posted on 27 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Akhaltsikhe, it was a fantastic drive up to Vardzia, with old castles and churches along the way. Soon, we espied the wide-mouthed caves gaping at us from across the valley as we drove in. Vardzia, on the left bank of the Mtkvari River, 30 kms. from the town of Aspindza, was excavated from solid rock along the slopes of the Erusheti Mountain during the second half of the 12^th century. The caves, stretching along the cliff for some 500 m., rises up to 19 tiers.

The Cave City of Vardzia

Four distinct building phases have been identified at Vardzia. The first phase, during the reign of Giorgi III (1156-1184), was when the site was laid out and the first cave dwellings excavated; the second between Giorgi’s death and the marriage of fabled queen Tamar, his successor, in 1186 (when the Church of the Dormition was carved out and decorated); the third from that date until Tamar’s victory at the Battle of Basian (circa 1203), during which time many more dwellings as well as the defenses, water supply, and a complex irrigation network ( to water fertile, terraced farmlands on the outside slopes) were constructed.

The author and Riva

The fourth phase was a period of partial rebuilding, after the devastating earthquake of 1283 literally ripped the place apart, shattering the mountain slope, destroying more than two-thirds of the city and exposing the hidden innards of the remainder. Vardzia escaped the onslaught of the Mongol invaders in the 1290s and the monastery community persisted until it was sacked by the Persians, under Shah Tahmasp I, in 1551. After the Ottoman takeover in the 16^th century, the site was largely abandoned.

The steep uphill path to the cave city

The greater Vardzia area includes also the early 11^th-century church at Zeda Vardzia and the 10^th to 12^th-century rock village and cave churches of Ananuri. The main lower site, carved from the cliff’s central stratum of tufaceous breccia at an elevation of 1,300 m. above sea level, is divided, into an eastern and a western part, by the Church of the Dormition. In the eastern part of the complex are 79 separate cave dwellings, in 8 tiers, with a total of 242 rooms, including 6 chapels, “Tamar’s Room,” a meeting room, reception chamber, pharmacy and 25 wine cellars (185 wine jars sunk into the floor document the importance of viticulture to the monastic economy).

Steel ladders facilitate access to caves

In the western part, between the external bell tower and the large main church, are a further 40 houses, in 13 tiers, with a total of 165 rooms, including 6 chapels, a refectory with a bakery, other ovens for baking bread, and a forge. Beyond the bell tower, the complex rises to 19 tiers, with steps leading to a cemetery. Infrastructure includes access tunnels, water facilities and provision for defense. It is assumed that the only access to this mountain stronghold was via a hidden tunnel whose entrance was near the banks of the Mtkvari River.

Walkways connecting the caves

The Church of the Dormition, the central spiritual and monumental focus of the site, is sometimes known as the Church of the Assumption, which corresponds with the Orthodox Feast of the Dormition. It dates to the 1180s and was erected by Tamar to house the icon of the Virgin of Vardzia after receiving divine help in her campaigns. It has an important series of wall paintings. Similarly carved from the rock, with walls reinforced in stone, the church is 8.2 m. (27 ft.), 14.5 m. (48 ft.) long and has a height of 9.2 m. (30 ft.).

The Church of the Dormition

The wall paintings of the church and narthex, not frescoes but executed in secco, are of crucial significance in the development of the Medieval Georgian mural painting. Ascribed to Rati Surameli, eristavi of Kartli, portraits of him, as well as royal founders Giorgi III alongside her niece Tamar, are commemorated on the north wall. Tamar lacks the ribbon that is the attribute of a married woman. Her inscription includes the formula “God grant her a long life.” Giorgi, on the other hand, does not. The paintings are dated to between Giorgi’s death in 1184 and Tamar’s marriage in 1186.

At the vaults and upper walls are episodes, in a sequence, from the life of Christ (Annunciation, followed by the Nativity, Presentation in the Temple, Baptism, Transfiguration, Raising of Lazarus, Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem, Last Supper, Washing of the Feet, Crucifixion, Harrowing of Hell,Ascension, Descent of the Holy Spirit and Dormition).

At a lower level, more accessible as intercessors, are paintings of saints and stylites. On the sanctuary’s rear wall, behind the altar, are Twelve Church Fathers while in the narthex are scenes of the Last Judgment, Bosom of Abraham, Angels bearing a Medallion with the Cross, and 3 scenes from the life of Saint Stephen. Other paintings were lost during the 1283 earthquake.

Since 1985 the site has formed part of the Vardzia Historical–Architectural Museum-Reserve, which includes 46 architectural sites, 12 archaeological sites, and 21 sites of monumental art. In 1999, the extended area of Vardzia-Khertvisi, now part of a state heritage reserve, has been submitted for future inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a Cultural Site. In 2007, it was resubmitted as a mixed Cultural and Natural Site.

Tadpole-shaped pits that may have been ovens for baking bread

The Refectory

From 2012, conservation of the wall paintings in the Church of the Dormition was carried out by the Courtauld Institute of Art in conjunction with the National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation of Georgia and Tbilisi State Academy of Arts. Today, the place is maintained by a small group of zealous monks. About 300 (out of 6,000) apartments and halls can be visited and, in some tunnels, the old irrigation pipes still bring drinkable water.

The premises of the monks

Upon arrival, Ruby opted to stay behind at the parking lot (she has been to Vardzia before) while Riva and I walked up a path whose initial approach leads steeply uphill for 30-40 m. up. It was not easy climbing, but we wore good shoes and I brought along my trekking pole (actually a monopod). As we went through the caves at Vardzia, we walked up and down very steep, narrow and low corridors and stairs, most deformed with time. Some of the balconies we passed by were also not fenced (truly not for the faint of heart). We sometimes went through tunnels in near total darkness.

A narrow passageway

Though the earthquake destroyed a significant part of this cave city carved into the mountainside, what remains was still an unbelievable sight and quite unique and truly amazing to behold. Vardzia looks like it was taken directly from the pages of Lord of the Rings. All I can really say was “Wow.” Walking around and seeing the caves, and the connections between them, was truly mind blowing. The views of the valley are interesting and unbelievable, and the combination of architectural buildings and the caves is astonishing. The most surprising part of our visit was the lack of other visitors. For about 2 hours, Riva and I explored the caves and paths on the mountain but we encountered less than 20 people!

View of the valley from the 2-arch portico of the Church of the Dormition

Vardzia: Samtskhe-Javakheti, Georgia. Open daily (except Mondays), 10 AM – 7 PM. Admission: 3 GEL (adults), 1 GEL (students), 2 GEL (group of 10 person or more).

Ticket Office

How To Get There: From Tblisi, take a marshrutka (minibus) from Digomi Bus station to Akhaltsikhe. Travel time is about 3 to 4 hours and fare is 12 GEL. From Akhaltsekhi, take another marshrutka to Vardzia. Travel time is an hour and costs 6 GEL. For Vardzia, the taxi (worth it if you are a group of 3 to 4 people that can share the fare) is the easiest mode of transport while a marshrutka the second best option. The last marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe for Vardzia leaves at 1:20 pm. Be there 10 minutes earlier as, once full, the marshrutka will depart earlier. The marshrutkas operate 3 times a day. Leave Tbilisi by 7 AM so that you can reach Akhaltsikhe by 10 AM and catch the marshrutka leaving for Vardzia at 10:30 AM and return to Akhaltsikhe via the last marshrutka at 3 PM. The last marshrutka for Tbilisi from Akhaltsekhi departs at 7 PM.

Taxi hired from Akhaltsikhe

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

Akhaltsikhe (Georgia)

Posted on 27 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

After a breakfast of bread, jam, cheese and coffee at Likani Guesthouse, Ruby, Riza and I readied ourselves for our day tour of the cave city of Vardzia in southern Georgia. From the guesthouse, we walked the short distance to Georgia’s main East-West highway (E60) where we hailed a marshrutka (minibus) that plies the 49-km. route from Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe, a small city in Georgia‘s southwestern region (mkhare) of Samtskhe-Javakheti. The fare was 4 GEL and the trip took about 50 mins. Along the way, it started to snow, my first time to see such an event.

Akhaltsikhe

Riva, Ruby and the author at Akhaltsikhe

Akhaltsikhe, the most direct land route between Armenia and Turkey, has been around for at least 800 years. It was a regional administrative center for the Ottomans from the sixteenth century up to the Russo-Turkish War. Until the 20th century, Akhaltsikhe’s population was mostly Armenian but, today, unlike most of the province, it is mostly Georgian.

Bus station

Taxi stand

Upon arrival at Akhaltsekhi, we had the option of taking another marshrutka to Vardzia but, as the next bus was to leave after lunch (1:20 PM), we instead walked from the Akhaltsikhe bus terminal to the taxi stand where we negotiated with some drivers who could drive us to Vardzia. With one driver who drove an Opel Astra wagon, we finally settled on the amount of 40 GEL. He would wait for 2 hours while we explored the cave city and then bring us back to Akhaltsikhe.

Filling up with LPG at a gas staion

Rabati Castle

Before leaving the city, our driver had to fill up with LPG (Liquified petroleum gas) for his car at a gas station but, before doing so, requested all three of us to alight, something unheard of in an LPG station in Manila.

Overnight at Borjomi (Georgia)

Posted on 26 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Likani Guesthouse Borjomi

After our tour of Borjomi Park, Riva, Ruby and I had dinner at the town center and, after that, hired a taxi to take us to Likani Guesthouse. Its landmark is the famous Tsqarostan, a water source with free clean drinking water. Located 3 kms. from the town center and easily accessible by road, we were to stay overnight at one of this homey, 2-storey guesthouse’s 4 rooms which can accommodate a total of 12 persons (25 GEL per bed or 75 GEL per room of 3 beds).

The ground floor room where we spent the night

We were all welcomed by owner Ms. Lamara Tomashvili. Later in the evening, we met up with the owner’s son Iosebi “Soso” Tomashvili who speaks good English aside from Georgian and Russian. He brought along a jug of homemade Georgian wine and chacha (Georgian pomace brandy) and assumed the role of tamada (Georgian toastmaster).

Riva, the author, Ruby and Soso making a toast

Soso proposed a toast to everyone at the table and we also followed his lead. I somehow was able to consume my share of the Georgian wine but the clear and strong chacha was something else, it being 75 proof. I was just about drunk when I retired for the night.

Our breakfast. Behind are jugs of leftover Georgian wine and chacha

Breakfast the next day, which was included in the overnight rate, consisted of sliced bread, jam, butter, cheese and hard-boiled egg plus coffee or tea.

Still used to make homemade Georgian wine

Owner Ms. Lamina Tomashvili, Ruby Bebita and the author

Likani Guesthouse Borjomi: 85 Meskheti St., Tsqarostan, Likani, 1200 Borjomi. Tel: + 995597005282 and + 995577382120.

Borjomi Mineral Water Park (Borjomi, Georgia)

Posted on 26 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

The next day (my second day in Georgia), after breakfast at our hostel, Filipina expat Ruby and I dropped by the nearby hostel where Buddy, Pancho, Melissa and Riva were staying, hoping to invite any of them to join us in going to Borjomi. Riva, who just arrived early that morning, was game and all three of us walked to the nearby Avlabari Metro Station where we all took the Metro to Didube Metro Station.

The mountain spa town of Borjomi

Upon arrival, we all boarded a Borjomi-bound marshrutka (minibus). The fare was 8 GEL and the 156.4-km. journey, via the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Highway/E60, took us about two hours. Along the way, we passed by Tserovani, a village of about 2,000 identical houses built to house Georgians who fled South Ossetia during the war.

The author with Ruby

The attractive resort town of Borjomi, in south-central Georgia, is one of the districts of the Samtskhe-Javakheti region and is situated in the northwestern part of the region, in the picturesque Borjomi Gorge on the eastern edge of the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, between the Vakhani and Trialeti Ridges. Clinging to the hills on either side of the Mtkvari River, 850 m. above sea level, it is the largest mountain spa in Georgia, with an estimated population of 14,445.

The author and Ruby walking the sidewalks of Borjomi

The author and Riva walking along the sidewalks of Borjomi

The town is famous for its love-it-or-hate-it but curative mineral water, the number one export of Georgia. As early as in the 15^th century, the mineral waters of Borjomi were already mentioned but it only gained wide notoriety when a daughter of Evgeny Golovin, viceroy of the Russian Tsar in the Caucasus, was cured of her gynecological problems there. Yekaterinsky Spring, one of the mineral water sources, was named after this girl while the second one, Yevgeniyevsky Spring, was named after the viceroy himself.

The Tourist Center

The Romanov House got interested in these mineral sources and the first bottling plant producing bottled Borjomi mineral water was opened by the tsar’s order. The first bottles, made with transparent crystal glass, were later replaced by dark bottles, and every bottle was packed in a reed “case” and sealed with the factory stamps. Drinking it is said to benefit the digestive system and body metabolism. Borjomi mineral water can now be bought in shops in over 30 countries throughout the world and I’ve already tried it during dinner the night before.

Bridge of Beauty

We dropped off at Rustaveli Street, the main commercial street of Borjomi which runs along the northern bank of the Mtkvari River. Walking along this street, we dropped by the tourist office housed in a glass pavilion between Rustaveli Street and the river. Here, we left our backpacks and luggage in a bookshop owned by the sister of the landlady of Likani Guesthouse where we will all be staying overnight. Thus unburdened, we crossed over the Bridge of Peace, a white painted suspension bridge over the Mtkvari River, leading to the southern half of the town where Borjomi Mineral Water Park is located.

Borjomi Mineral Water Park

Stretched along the small Borjomula River, this city park contains the source of Borjomi mineral water. A lovely place for us to do a brisk hike in the chilly mountain air, the park occupies a lovely stretch of forest following the narrow, wooded valley along the Borjomula River. There are several dozen health institutions, recreation complexes, sanatoriums and rest houses in Borjomi and all of them are located in the vicinity of the park. About 300 m. west of the bridge, Rustaveli Street changes its name to Meskheti Street.

Borjomula River

The author and Riva at a viewpoint by the river

Dating from 1850, the park has recently been renovated and reopened in 2005, its opening attended by the presidents of Georgia and Ukraine. Today, it is the most extensive ecologically-themed amusement park in the Caucasus, with a number of attractive themed playgrounds, a few amusement-park style attractions, a swimming pool and a cinema theater. The first part of the park contains the amusement park and cafes.

The Soviet-era railway station

However, most of the park’s facilities – cafes, funfair attractions, the cinema, the cable car and the hilltop Ferris wheel – only operate from about late June to early September. During the summer, a park admission fee of 0.50 GEL is charged but, as it was the onset of winter, admission was free. Near the entrance to the park, local vendors here sell homemade jam made from pine tree cones. It is claimed that the jam is good for improving immunity and useful for curing upper respiratory tract infections.

On the south bank of the river, just east of the bridge is the renovated, Stalin-era Borjomi Park Train Station. The railway here opened in 1894. East of the station, we turned right along 9 Aprili and walked another 600m. Along the way, we passed by a new pedestrian bridge, a quite stunning example of the wave of new Georgian architecture that perfectly symbolizes the restorative water that has made Borjomi famous.

The new pedestrian bridge

Entrance gate of Fairy Land

Children’s playground

Beside the roller-coasters and the pools are the mineral water springs where locals go to get their drinking water, filling bottles with it. Warm mineral water flows from taps in a green pavilion straight in front of the entrance where, nearby, plenty of stalls sell souvenirs and empty plastic bottles of various volumes.

Souvenir shops

Ruby and I drank the water in the main spring’s two battered taps. Though slightly warm, sour and a bit salty, with a tang of sulfur, very different from the slender glass bottled water I tried the night before, we still managed to ingest this stronger tasting water. As it is flavored with sodium carbonate, it was said to taste like Vichy water.

The drinking pavilion

Riva trying out Borjomi’s mineral water

It was a different story with Riva who couldn’t find the courage to swallow it. There are said to be other springs with fresh water that have no strong taste. We continued on to the rear part of the park where, near the entrance, is the cable car (1 GEL each way) that brings visitors up to plateau where the view over Borjomi was said to be fantastic.

The closed cable car station

If we continued past the asphalted part for another 2.5 kms., we would have reached a lovely clearing in the forest where there’s small, a concrete, Soviet-era, hot spring-fed swimming pool with a constant temperature of about 27°C.

Narikala Fortress (Tbilisi, Georgia)

Posted on 25 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

Once settled in at my room in Envoy Tours Hostel, I decided to do my first exploration of Old Tblisi. I was joined by Ruby Bebita, a resident Pinay expat who spoke passable Georgian and, after 3 months in the country, already knows her way around the city. She suggested we explore nearby Narikala Fortress which is clearly visible above our hostel. It was still drizzling when we left.

Narikala Fortress

To get there, we walked to nearby Rike Park where we took a plexi-glass cable car (open 11 AM-11 PM, fare: 1 GEL/pax) up the steep hill. Called the Aerial Tramway, it was just reopened last January 2013 after 13 years of reconstruction. Ruby used her Metro Card (Metromoney) to pay the fare. Entrance to the fortress is free.

Aerial Tramway at Rike Park

This ancient fortress, overlooking Tbilisi and the Kura River, between the sulphur baths and the botanical gardens of Tbilisi, consists of 2 walled sections. It was established in the 4th century as the Shuris-tsikhe (“Invidious Fort”) and was considerably expanded by the Umayyads in the 7th century and, later, by King David the Builder (1089–1125). The Mongols renamed it Narin Qala (“Little Fortress”). Most of its extant fortifications date from the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1827, parts of the fortress were damaged by an earthquake and demolished.

Panoramic views of the city

Once on top, I beheld a beautiful view of the city spread out before us, with the Mtkvari River cutting through its middle, making for very frame-worthy photography. Ruby pointed out the notable sites, both old and new, visible from this vantage point – Tiflis Baths, the Metekhi Church, the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the Bridge of Peace over Kura River, the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi (Sameba) and the mushroom-shaped Tbilisi Public Service Hall. It was truly a photographer’s delight.

The statue of Kartlis Deda (“Mother of Georgia”)

Aside from the fortess walls, there are two notable structures within the fortress – the Church of St. Nicolas and the statue of Kartlis Deda (“Mother of Georgia”). The recently restored St Nicholas church, on the lower court, replaced the original 13th century church that was destroyed during a fire. Built from 1996 to 1997, the new church is of “prescribed cross” type, with doors on three sides. Too bad the church doors were closed as its interiors are decorated with frescos showing scenes both from the Bible and the history of Georgia.

St. Nicolas Church

The statue of Kartlis Deda, on the top of Sololaki Hill, was erected in 1958, the year Tbilisi celebrated its 1,500th anniversary. This 23 m. high, aluminum figure of a woman in Georgian national dress, designed by prominent Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli, symbolizes the Georgian national character. On her left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends and, in her right hand, is a sword for those who come as enemies.

The author and Ruby

After our tour around the fortress, we decided to forego returning via cable car and, instead, walk down the winding road from Narikala Fortress to Old Tbilisi, a rewarding experience in itself. It’s quite a tricky walk, on wet stoned paths and stairs, but we were wearing comfortable footwear.

Narikala Fortress beautifully lit at night (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

During the day, the fortress exudes a spirit of impregnable character, dignity and endurance and, during the night (when it is beautifully lit), it radiates a sense of inner silence and peace, truly a testament to the world that Tbilisi is a lovely city filled with a rich and historic past.

Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar)

Posted on 24 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

Hamad International Airport

After a long, 9-hour flight from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport at Clark Freeport Zone in Pampanga, our Qatar Airways plane made its first stopover at Hamad International Airport (HIA) in the Arabian Gulf city of Doha, Qatar, the airline’s home, arriving there at 3 PM (Doha time).

The undulating roof of the passenger terminal

Here, we were to have an over 16-hour layover prior to continuing on our journey to Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia. Opened just last April, 30 2014 with the ambition of turning Doha into a global aviation hub serviced by Qatar Airways, this barely 5-month old international airport, designed by global design studio HOK, is one of the most advanced airports in the world. About 65% of the construction workers who built this airport are Filipinos.

Qatar Airways aircraft parked at the airport’s apron

Built over 22 sq. kms. (8.5 sq. mi.), half of which is on reclaimed land, this majestic structure’s expressive architecture reflects its coastal location. The undulating rooftop silhouette of this dramatic, curving building ripples away from the concourse in swooping peaks and troughs that recalls the ocean waves of the Arabian Gulf and sand dunes.This undulating super roof can be experienced by departing passengers in the light-filled departure hall while the undulating roof line is mimicked by vaulted metal ceilings in other concourses.

We probably arrived outside of its peak period as we walked through its beautiful hallways and lounges. As it was completely quiet, we were thinking we were the first to ever set foot in the place. There were no jarring announcements to disturb the calm. Being new, every gleaming surface of this hyper-clean airport’s lavish departure and arrival areas was spotless and its high ceilings and expansive concourses gave it a sense of grandeur.

The steel-framed glass wall, from the curbside arrival area through the ticketing hall, provided us with unobstructed views enabling us to easily find our destinations. The east and west facades have high-performance glass that controls solar heat gain and glare.

The sleek metal and glass surfaces contrast with a vast wood ceiling that provides visual warmth in the longest concourse. One thing I noticed was the deliberate lack of ornamentation, with graceful structural arches left unadorned. Terrazzo was used in high-circulation areas while carpet covered ancillary spaces.

Grand foyer of Duty-Free shopping hall

On the first floor, under a vast central skylight that provides visual access to one of five concourses, transfer passengers such as us, joined originating passengers, as we moved through an open immigration area. The two large transfer hubs were linked by an automatic people mover.

The arriving passengers then progress to the ground-floor baggage hall and exit to a triple-volume meeters and greeters hall which has direct access to taxi pavilions and an intermodal transportation hub. As we had hours to kill, we spent time exploring the airport. One thing that make HIA so unexpectedly cool is their groundbreaking pieces of modern art that, oftentimes, stop passengers in their tracks.

Lamp Bear (Urs Fischer)

The “Lamp Bear,” at the grand foyer of the airport’s duty-free shopping hall, is a giant, bronze, surreal, yellow teddy bear sitting under a black lamp, one of three creations by subversive Swiss artist Urs Fischer. This arresting sight, standing 7 m. tall and weighing approximately 18-20 tons, was previously displayed at the Seagram Building‘s plaza in New York City before it was purchased at a Christie’s auction for US$6.8 million by a member of the Qatari royal family. It at has a near-constant knot of people in front of it, grabbing selfie shots.

Playground (Tom Otterness, 2014)

Throughout the activity nodes in Concourse C, near gates C2, C3 and C8, are a series of eight large-scale interactive bronze sculptures done, by Tom Otterness, with slides and seats for limbs and play-pen-like chambers for torsos. Children and adults engage, interact and find recreational enjoyment with these bronze figures that appear to be in play with one another.

Author posing beside a McLaren MP4-12C Coupe on display at the world’s largest TAG Heuer airport boutique

The communal area seating, with all Italian-style chrome and leather, was fancy. Come evening, we got some shut eye on comfortable recliners within the peaceful surroundings of the quiet lounge. There are also family lounges for those travelling with kids. These quiet rooms, as well as the spacious hold rooms, passenger activity nodes and 17 airline lounges, are all enveloped by glass. Natural light and dramatic evening desert views are provided by skylights and interconnecting glass ceiling “zippers.”

Duty-free shops

The free Wi-Fi at Hamad International Airport was fast and unlimited (simply connect to “HIAQatar Complimentary WiFi”). For standard passengers like us just passing through, there were plenty of the usual airport restaurant and retail options plus numerous upscale boutiques including Gucci, Burberry, Coach, Rolex, Swarovski and others. A lot of Filipinos also work in these shops. On another stopover here on my return to Manila, one of them assisted me when I bought a Sony A-3000 digital SLR camera in one of these shops

Hamad International Airport: Doha, State of Qatar. Tel: +974 465 66 66 (office) and +974 462 29 99 (flight information). Fax: +974 462 20 44. IATA Code: DOH. ICAO Code: OTHH. E-mail: diainfo@qatarairways.com. Website: www.dohahamadairport.com.

Georgia on My Mind (Republic of Georgia That Is)

Posted on 24 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

The Philippine delegation at Gudauri, Republic of Georgia. L-R: Pancho Piano, Riva Galveztan, the author, Mel Dizon-Dulalia and Buddy Cunanan

Upon the invitation of Mr. Thelmo “Buddy” O. Cunanan Jr., honorary consul of Georgia in the Philippines, I joined a group that would cover the Colors of Hope exhibit of Mr. Pancho Piano, the first Filipino artist to officially present his work in Georgia and the entire Caucasus region. Aside from Buddy, Pancho and I, also joining the group were Ms. Riva M. Galveztan (health food advocate) and Prof. Melissa “Mel” Dizon-Dulalia. Our Republic of Georgia odyssey was to last 11 days (November 24 – December 4, 2014).

Check out “The Colors of Hope Exhibit”

Diosdado Macapagal International Airport in Clark, Pampanga

On the first day of our trip, I met up with Buddy at Resorts World where a bus was to take us Diosdado Macapagal International Airport at Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga. Along the way, we picked up Pancho Piano at Centris Mall in Quezon City.

The author at the check-in counter of the airport

Upon arrival at Clark, we met up with Mel at the airport. Riva was to meet us in Tbilisi on another flight the day after our arrival in Tbilisi. While waiting for our flight, all four of us had a late breakfast at the VIP 1 Lounge of the airport.

On board our Qatar Airways plane

We all left the airport on the 10:50 AM Qatar Airways (QR 931) flight on board a Boeing 787-8 aircraft. A rather long 9-hour flight brought us to Hamad International Airport in Doha, Qatar, our first stopover, arriving there at 2:50 PM (Doha time). Here, Pancho, Mel and I were in for a long 17-hour layover. Buddy opted to leave the airport and check in at a hotel in Doha.

Check out “Hamad International Airport”

View of Doha from our plane

Hamad International Airport in Doha, Qatar

We whiled the time away admiring the artwork, taking turns sleeping on airport lounge chairs and, come morning, having breakfast at a Burger King outlet.

The author, Pancho Piano and Mel Dizon-Dulalia at Hamad International Airport

Buddy joined us the next morning in time for our 7:45 AM (QR 251) connecting flight to Tbilisi, this time on board an Airbus A320 aircraft. Normal flight time is 3 hours and 15 minutes but we made a 1-hour stopover in Heydar Aliyev International Airport in Baku (Republic of Azerbaijan) to offload as well as load some new passengers.

Stopover in Heydar Aliyev International Airport in Azerbaijan

Touchdown at Tblisi International Airport

We arrived in Tbilisi International Airport by lunchtime where we were met by Ms. Ruby Bebita, a Filipina working in Tbilisi, who assisted us in getting a place to stay in the city. After buying and installing local SIM cards at the airport, we boarded a taxi to bring Pancho, Mel and Buddy to a hostel, near Meidan Square, while I stayed at the nearby Envoy Tours Hostel.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Envoy Tours Hostel”

Arrival at the hostel. Ruby is the lady at left

Envoy Tours Hostel: 45 Betlemi Street (on Junction to Orbiri St. leading up to the Narikala Fortress), 0105 Tbilisi City, Georgia. Tel: +995-322-920-111. Website: www.envoyhostel.com.

The Chinese Compound (Pasay City)

Posted on 11 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From My Mother’s Garden, we began the afternoon leg of our AAP-sponsored Pasay Media Familiarization Tour, proceeding, along F.B. Harrison St., to a compound where, upon entering its red main gate, I was instantly transported to another place and time smack in the middle of urban chaos, which makes for an interesting contrast.

The Chinese Compound

Set amidst lush greenery is an interesting enclave of 15 post-World War II, medium-sized and nearly identical 2-storey houses. All these houses, designed to facilitate air flow before the introduction of air-conditioning, have high ceilings, large windows and a second floor balcony. Its floors are laden with Machuca tiles.

The boutiue hotel

Formerly a residential abode for the Chinese owner’s large family (it is called the Chinese Compound), this tree-lined compound simply awed me with its old-world charm and serenity. Some of these 1950s houses are just regular homes of people not connected to the artistic world but several of the homes now house several interesting establishments such as the art gallery of Albert Avellana (Avellana Art Gallery), the atelier of top fashion designer Jesus “Jojie” Lloren and the furniture showroom (Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery- A11) of interior designer Eric Paras which occupies 2 houses.

Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery

Five of the houses are also being turned into a boutique hotel, an example of adaptive reuse. It will have a swimming pool and a restaurant. We all toured each of these establishments (save for the boutique hotel which was still being constructed) which made the compound an artistic hotbed ever since it was occupied by creative souls. All are filled with art, classic French crockery, rustic table settings and furniture and decor that channel everything from Art Deco to mid century to a more industrial style. The space is reputed to be a source for well-known interior designers all over the country.

An A 11 furniture showroom

The Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery, opened last January 2013, houses, in a home setting, many of Eric’s designer furniture plus some items he brought in from elsewhere. They include a double-tiered, mid-century side tables; metal-based furniture pieces such as an iron bed frame with a wood-framed screen upholstered in toile de jouy fabric; a mid-century ambassador’s chair finished in black; an antique writing desk refinished in a dark hue; table tops and shelving units with thick slabs of exotic wood; a 4-panel screen, hung with small artwork, made with old doors; low console table, for Eric’s line of lighting, made from an enormous wood column; a metal framed lamp, topped by a marble cylindrical shade, with geometric patterns; a marble wash basin filled with decorative woven rattan balls; a pair of side tables, topped with polished white marble, with hollowed wood bases etched with designs in a random pattern; a cylindrical center table base wrapped with metal strips in a loose weave pattern; and Eric’s collection of colorful ceramic accessories.

Another A 11 showroom

The Avellana Art Gallery, opened in 1997, specializes in eye-catching Filipino art. Its genteel old space was turned by Albert into a retro-modern gallery for the functional art. The two floors are full of art, with the top floor being used for moving exhibitions, a perfect venue for new and more established artists. At the entrance lobby is the sculpture “Love From Above” by Pidge Reyes.

Avellana Art Gallery

Love from Above by Pidge Reyes

At the atelier of Jojie Lloren, we were welcomed by the mild-mannered and pleasant designer himself. We all listened to him at his spacious living room, sitting at contemporary chairs around an old round table. His atelier looks a bit French Art Nouveau, the compact space of his workshop made stylish and beautified, in the bayanihan spirit, by his close friends.

Listening to Jojie Lloren at his atelier

There were furniture pieces (couch, ceramic garden stools, etc.) from Eric Paras’ A11, a louver screen from Albert Avellana, a bird cage from designer James Reyes, and a chandelier from lighting designer Ricky David; all these things close to Jojie’s heart. Jojie also added period pieces he bought from thrift shops along Evangelista St. in Makati. His display of Filipino religious includes antique Marian medallions ((that spell out his name) and modern Marian prints by Virgilio Aviado. There are also paintings, including one from Popo San Pascual.

Reception area with a chandelier from Ricky David, couch from Eric Paras and louver screen from Albert Avellana

Despite the heavy Pasay traffic and braving the pollution and the gritty stretch of urban decay on that day, the sudden change of atmosphere, once inside this place of calm, was truly worth the extra effort.

Religious art collection of Jojie

Avellana Art Gallery: Unit A-19, 2680 F.B.Harrison St., Pasay City. Tel: (632) 833-8357. E-mail: avellana_gallery@yahoo.com. Open Mondays to Saturdays, 10 AM to 7 PM.

Atelier of Jojie Lloren: Unit A-17 2680 F.B Harrison St., 1300 Pasay City. Tel: (632) 556-4725, (632) 641-9347 and (632) 401-1194. Fax: (632) 896-7199. E-mail: lyorenne@hotmail.com.

Artelano 11 Furniture Gallery: Unit A-11, 2680 F.B. Harrison St., 1300 Pasay City. Tel: (632) 832-9972. Mobile number: (0917) 837-0115. E-mail: a_eleven05@yahoo.com.

Automobile Association Philippines (AAP): 28 EDSA, Greenhills, San Juan City. Tel: (632) 655-5889. Fax: (632) 655-1878. E-mail: info@aap.org.ph. Website: www.aap.org.ph.

AAP Travel: G/F, Sea Tower Bldg., 2332 Roxas Blvd. cor. Arnaiz Ave., Pasay City. Tel: (632) 551-0025. Fax: (632) 551-0014. E-mail: info@aaptravel.com. Website:www.aaptravel.com.ph.

Exploring Sumilon Island (Oslob, Cebu)

Posted on 8 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

The Sumilon Island hiking trail

After our lunch at the Island Pavilion Restaurant, Lara, Joy, Jimbo, Rachelle, Risa, Leica (Pete’s daughter) and I decided to burn some calories by doing a hike, with a resort guide, around the 24-hectare island. Liana and Kaycee opted to stay behind to rest.

View of the natural lagoon from the cliffside trail

The nicely laid out hiking trail (open from 6 AM – 4 PM) started as we descended the steps down from the restaurant and traversed the cliffside pathway, strewn with coral rock, overlooking the natural lagoon where we could see a number of guests kayaking. Soon enough, we entered the lush forest. Along the trail are colored pennants tied to trees that indicate the difficulty of the trail – yellow for beginners, blue for moderate and red for advanced.

Hiking along the coral rock-strewn trail

Soon we reached a fork in the trail. The trail on the left traverses the northern point of the island where panoramic views of white sand beaches along the northwestern and eastern shores of the island can be seen. The trail on the right cuts through the spine of the island and leads up to the island’s highest point, 28 m. above sea level, where a lighthouse and a Spanish-era baluarte (watchtower) is located. We chose to explore this route.

The concrete lighthouse

The concrete lighthouse on the top wasn’t much. It didn’t have a hollow core with a spiral stairway leading to the top, a feature found in many lighthouses. Instead, steel, U-shaped ladder rungs imbedded in the concrete exterior was used.

The Spanish-era baluarte (watchtower)

The quadrilateral, heavily overgrown but still relatively intact baluarte was more interesting. It was part of a network of watchtower and fortlets, extending from Santander to Sibonga, built by Augustinian Fr. Julian Bermejo (pastor of Boljo-on from 1804-1836) to warn the townspeople of the approach of pirates. Lara and Joy entered the watchtower through a small, square hole in one of its sides.

The marine sanctuary

The abandoned marine station of Silliman University

From this vantage point, we now made our way down the trail to the pristine blue waters of the western side of the island where part of Sumilon Island Marine Park is located. Situated off Cebu’s southeastern coast, 5.5 kms. east northeast of Tanon Point, this marine sanctuary was formerly administered by Siliman University in Dumaguete City (Negros Oriental) as evidenced by a now abandoned hut of the marine station along this part of the trail. Today, the sanctuary is managed by the resort. Motorized water sports such as jetskiing and water skiing are not allowed to ensure that the sanctuary is not disturbed.

Aquamania Dive Shop

However, fine snorkeling, over coral gardens, can be done along the western, northern and eastern sides of the island. For scuba divers, it offers waters two to 5 m. deep and 200 m. wide and a drop-off about 100 m. off the southwest coast with spectacular underwater life including the big garoupa. Large schools of jacks, manta rays, sharks, barracudas, sea snakes, turtles and even an occasional whale shark can be seen off the northern and southern tip. Dive sites here include Coral Landscape, Garden Eel Plaza, Julie’s Rock and Nikki’s Wall. Diving season is all year round. Visibility reaches 30 m. and average depth is 20 m. with a maximum of 35 m.. Waters here are usually calm with strong currents to sometimes very rough, fierce and physically demanding currents. The resort has a dive shop (Aquamania) with certified dive instructors and extensive diving facilities.

Flower-bedecked table set-up for two at the sandbar

A marriage proposal etched on the sand

Further down the trail, we soon reached the island’s white sandbar, the only part of the island that is open to the public. It shifts and changes its shape with the tides and the current. Here, we can swim, snorkel or sunbathe. It was also the setting for last night’s al fresco dinner. When we passed by, it was already set up for a marriage proposal, with a table for two, surrounded by flower petals shaped into a heart, set up along the beach. Nearby, along the sand, were the words “Will you marry me?” etched with pieces of tree branches.

Grotto of Our Lady of Fatima

On our way back to our cottages, we passed by a grotto with a statue of Our Lady of Fatima and, just past it, the short and seemingly man-made Yamashita’s Cave. We entered the latter and were surprised by a Halloween set-up, meant to scare visitors, at its very end. We were totally drained and drenched with sweat by the time we returned to our rooms.

Entrance to Yamashita Cave

Sumilon Bluewater Island Resort: Brgy. Bancogon, Sumilon Island, Oslob, 6025 Cebu. Tel: (032) 382-0008 and (032) 318-9098. Mobile numbers: (0917) 631-7514 and (0917) 631-7512. Email: info.sumilon@bluewater.com.ph.

Cebu City booking office: CRM Bldg., Escario cor. Molave Sts., Lahug, 6000 Cebu City. Tel: (032) 412-2436. Mobile numbers (0917) 631-7508 and (0998) 962-8263. E-mail: sales.sumilon@bluewater.co.ph.

Manila Office: Rm. 1120, Cityland/Herrera Towers, 98 Herrera cor. Valero St. Salcedo Village, Makati City. Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348. Fax: (632) 893-5391. E-mail: sumilon@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewatersumilon.com.ph.

Oslob Town Proper (Cebu)

Posted on 8 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

From Tumalog Falls, we again boarded our airconditioned van for the short trip to the town proper of Oslob. Within its Municipal Heritage Park are a number of Spanish-era structures and at the center of it all is the town’s massive Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception (Nuestra Señora de la Inmaculada Conception).

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

The church was designed by Bishop Santos Gomez de Marañon (the same prelate who built the kiosk of Magellan’s Cross in Cebu City) to replace the destroyed church at Daanglungsod (Boloc-Boloc). It cornerstone was laid by Fr. Julian Bermejo on May 4, 1830. Townspeople from neighboring Tañon (now Santander) and Ivisan (now Nueva Caceres, Oslob) helped in its construction. The church was finished in 18 years and blessed by Bishop Romualdo Ximeno in 1847.

The church’s historical plaque

The church’s modern interior

The bell tower on the church’s left was built by Fr. Apolinar Alvarez in 1858 and Fr. Gregorio de Santiago Vela installed 11 bells at the fifth storey in 1894. The bells were transferred to the fourth storey when the fifth was destroyed during a strong typhoon. The bell tower was later repaired by Fr. Mauricio Alvarez (who also built the cemetery, municipal tribunal and the municipal church and made known the medicinal uses of the sulfuric waters of Mainit springs).

The still unrestored, roofless convent

The convent on the right was started by Fr. Julian Bermejo. The church was finished and reinforced with solid buttresses from 1848 to 1850 by Fr. Juan Jose Aragones, Oslob’s first parish priest (1848–1854 and 1859–1861) and later Bishop of Nueva Segovia. It was renovated by Fr. Constantino Batoctoy in 1977. The roof, made of tejas sourced out and baked locally at a place now known as Lulukhan, were replaced with corrugated iron sheets by Fr. Pablo Alaxa in 1932. The church was totally burned by Cebuano guerillas in 1942 and, later on, the vault and dome fell. In 1954, the wooden flooring of the church was replaced with baldoza tiles.

The now 4-storey bell tower

Fire of unknown origin gutted the complex on November 7, 1955 leaving only the masonry walls of both buildings. It was restored, with the cooperation of the townspeople, by Fr. Benedicto Zapra and completed in 1980 by Fr. Constantino Batoctoy in time for the sesquicentennial celebration of the original church’s construction (1830 to 1980). A 2.5-hour (1:40-4 AM) fire again hit the church and adjacent convent on March 26, 2008 but spared the icon of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, which is inside a glass case, and the 73 other icons near the door to the bell tower. The church was complete restored on December 10, 2010.

The church gate

The church is 64 m. long, 15 m. wide, 9 m. high and has a simple, sober but attractive facade with a semicircular arched main entrance, rectangular widows, half-embedded pilasters and a triangular pediment. The 4-storey, 30 m. high and octagonal bell tower has rectangular and semicircular arched windows alternating with blind ones. The dome is typically Neo-Classic.

A garita (guardhouse)

In front of the church is a prayer room, also known as a waiting chapel, built in 1847. It was used as an isolation chamber for leprosy-afflicted patients. It has a pediment decorated with a relief of a human skeleton.

Calle de Aragones

Calle de Aragones historical plaque

On the left side of the church is Calle de Aragones, the town’s oldest street, built in 1879. It was named after Fr. Juan Jose Aragones. At the end of the street, at the intersection of Calle Aeternidad, is the unique, unfinished cuartel.

The unfinished coral stone cuartel

The cuartel’s double row of arches

The construction of this barracks for the Guardia Civil was started by el gran maestro Don Marcos Sabandal but was halted with the arrival of the Americans in 1899. The coral stones used in its construction of its 19 cm. thick walls came from the remnants of the floor of the collapsed church bell tower. Its façade features a double row of arches.

The interior of the cuartel

Historical plaque of cuartel

The thick coral stone walls and gates surrounding the church complex, called paril, are topped by a series of inverted, cone-shaped stones. They were built in 1875 as a defense against raiding Muslim pirates.

The church walls and gates

Historical plaque of church walls and gates

Along Calle Eternidad, parallel to the coast, is a baluarte (a watchtower locally called lantawan), one of 7 built by the warrior-priest Fr. Julian Bermejo, parish priest of Boljo-on. Hexagonal in plan and occupying an area of 48 sq. m., it has massive 7 m. high crenellated walls. Only about a half of the watchtower remains. In 1813, this baluarte, as well as the other watchtowers, helped Fr. Bermejo and the townspeople of Oslob repel Moro slave raiders led by Sultan Goranding during a naval battle near the waters off Sumilon Island. Sultan Goranding was captured during the battle.

Baluarte (watchtower)

Historical plaque of baluarte

How to Get There: Oslob is located 117 kms. (a 3-hr. drive) south of Cebu City.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is also a copy editor for two publishing houses; travel writer; blogger; architectural historian; author; concert. movie and musical reviewer (for www.pep.ph); and a motivational speaker.

As a free-lance travel writer, he has, in the past, contributed articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day and Bluprint. He currently writes for Artplus Magazine and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.

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