Good Friday, our last whole day in Sagada, was partly spent in prayer. Together with my Danum Lake companions who were also staying in my inn, we made our way past the school gate and up some steps to the cemetery where Eduardo Masferre, the famous photographer (June 24, 1995), and William Henry Scott (1993), are buried. It has a view of the northern valley. Further up is Calvary, the highest point in the town cemetery which is marked with a huge cross. Here, we visited and prayed at its 14 Stations of the Cross.
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| Sagada Cemetery |
From the cemetery, a steep path took us to Echo Valley. Halfway down, we viewed hanging coffins on large, gray limestone cliffs at the opposite side and some small burial caves. There are still a few sangadil (“death chairs”) next to the hanging coffins, placed there for the spirits to rest on.
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| Hanging coffins |
When a Sagadan nears old age, he is given the choice of cave burial or “hanging coffins.” The deceased is cladded in special burial attire woven by a widow in the village. This ensures that the spirit (anito) community would recognize them and admit them to the spirit world.
They are bound to a sangadil (death chair) and placed on the house porch for the duration of the long makibaya-o (wake period). During the makibaya-o, pigs are sacrificed, dirges are sung and eulogies given during the all-night vigils.
The empty coffin is first taken to the burial site (cave or rock ledges). The funeral procession follows later, preceded by torchbearers who make sure that no animals crosses its path. When bad omens are encountered, the previously selected burial site could be changed at the last moment in the belief that the new arrival is not welcomed by the present occupants.
The deceased’s body is borne by young lads who vie with one another for the honor of carrying it the furthest distance. In doing so, it is believed that he would gain much strength and wisdom from the deceased. Today, these traditional rites are still being practiced, although on a smaller or revised scale, and still requested by some old people.
However, most are now buried on family land or at the Christian cemetery. The makibaya-o, whether traditional, Christian or in combination, is still significant in adult deaths.
The next day, Saturday, after breakfast at the inn, Jandy and I left Sagada on the 10 AM jeepney bound for Bontoc.