A National Artist and a Haven for his Art (Tuba, Benguet)

After our Lakbay Norte 2 visit to Tam-awan Village in Pinsao Proper in Baguio City, we all returned to our bus and proceeded to Asin Rd. in Tuba, 6 kms. from the city, to visit a prominent Filipino artist who has taken up permanent residence in the Philippines’ “Summer Capital.”

The author with Benedicto “Bencab” Cabrera

The city, whose lovely natural environment and the rich Cordillera cultural heritage has inspired creativity, has become a natural haven for artists and now home to a growing number of gallery cafes and exhibits that showcase the paintings and sculptures of groups of local as well as visiting artists.

He is one of many who shared a passion for indigenous art, injecting local elements and techniques in their works, and dedicated to nurturing and preserving Cordilleran culture. That man is painter, printmaker and 2006 National Artist for the Visual Arts Benedicto R. Cabrera, more popularly known as BenCab.

He’s not named Benjamin as mentioned in other write ups though I wish he had the same first name as me. He, together with popular local artists such as solar artist Jordan Mang-osan, mixed-media painter John Frank Sabado and self-taught artist Ged Alangui set up the Chanum Foundation.

The author seated at a hagabi (a rich Ifugao’s bench)

Chanum which, in Ibaloi, means “water,” was the name adopted to symbolize its vision and role to be as nurturing and life-giving as a spring in the once vast pastureland of Pinsao.

After passing a woodcarver’s village with rows of shops selling a fabulous collection of carved figures, in varying sizes, ranging from giant statues to “stickmen,” we arrived at the ultra-modern BenCab Museum, built on a promontory.

Here, we were welcomed by BenCab himself. A Baguio resident for a quarter of century now, Bencab set up this permanent home for his art as well as his personal collection of the works of other acknowledged Filipino masters and rising contemporary artists and his collection of Cordillera artifacts.  After the interview, we explored the different areas of the museum.

The BenCab Gallery features the artist’s own works over a continuing artistic career that spans more than four decades.

The Cordillera Gallery is the repository of BenCab ’s collection of Cordilleran tribal artifacts and indigenous crafts such as bulols (rice granary gods); functional carved objects such as furniture, spoons, bowls and other utilitarian implements such baskets; and tribal weapons.

The Philippine Contemporary Art Galleries (1 and 2) houses the artist’s collection of paintings, drawings, prints and sculpture accumulated by BenCab through the years.

Philippine Contemporary Art Gallery

The Maestro Gallery houses a selection of works acknowledged masters of Philippine art such as Lee Aguinaldo, Roberto Chabet, Victorio C. Edades, Jose Joya, Cesar Legaspi, Arturo Luz, Anita Magsaysay-Ho, Juvenal Sanso, Fernando Zobel and others.

Erotic Gallery – Sculpture

Erotica Gallery

The Erotica Gallery houses paintings, drawings, sculpture and other artworks by various artists with an erotic subject or theme. The Print Gallery exhibits vintage maps, prints, photographs and postcards on the Philippines as well as contemporary prints and photographs.

The tall Sepia Gallery, adjoining the museum shop (which sells art books, paper products such as postcards, and notepads, highland art & crafts such as wood carvings and textiles as well as other souvenir items from t-shirts, and caps), is a venue for changing exhibitions.

Patio Salvador, an open terrace adjoining the Indigo Gallery, is used for receptions and sculpture shows while the Larawan Hall serves as a function room for art workshops, meetings, seminars, art film showings, and other related activities.

 

Prior to leaving, we enjoyed a merienda of clubhouse sandwiches and pasta dishes at Cafe Sabel, the museum’s coffee shop which overlooks the hill beyond and the mini-forest and duck pond below the museum.

Also below the museum is the farm and garden which showcases organic farm produce (seasonal vegetables, herbs, strawberries, sweet potatoes, coffee and ornamentals) and the typical Ifugao, Kalinga and Bontoc indigenous architecture.

Cafe Sabel

A river, which meanders through the property, has cascading waterfalls on one end.  There is an aviary housing peacocks and various birds,plus  ducks, geese, turkeys and other local livestock.

The organic farm below

BenCab Museum: Km. 6, Asin Rd., Tadiangan, Tuba, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 442-7165.  Mobile: (0920) 530-1954.  E-mail: bencabartfoundation@gmail.com.  Website: www.bencabmuseum.org. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM-6 PM.  General Admission: PhP100.  Students and Senior Citizens (with valid ID): PhP80.

Tam-awan Village: A Showcase of Cordillera Life (Baguio City, Benguet)

Tam-awan Village

The first leg of our Manila North Tollways Corporation (MNTC)/North Philippines Visitor’s Bureau (NPVB)-sponsored Lakbay Norte 2 Tour brought us to Baguio City, the country’s “Summer Capital,” where we were to check out the city’s art scene inspired by Baguio’s lovely natural environment and the rich Cordillera cultural heritage.  Our first stop was, fittingly, Tam-awan Village in Pinsao Proper where we were welcomed by Baguio City Visitors Bureau (BCVB) representatives Eric Pangilinan, Matt Roncal and Claire Iniong. This model village is laid out just like a traditional Cordillera village, making it accessible for those who have not had the opportunity to explore the different parts of the vast Cordillera region in the Philippines.  This recreated village, uniquely blending indigenous aesthetics and exquisite Cordilleran craftsmanship, has a charming collection of 9 authentic knock down huts built by clever mortise makers without nails or hardware Seven of these are compact and deceptively simple Ifugao huts transported from Bangaan, (Ifugao ).  The other two are more spacious Kalinga huts made of hand-hewn pine wood.  Some huts are over a hundred years old but have new cogon roofs which are periodically re-roofed from time to time.  All huts are named after the areas where they come from.

Jordan Mang-osan with one of his works  

Upon entering the compound, our media group, consisting of travel writers, bloggers and photographers, all explored the grounds including its art works at the art gallery and gazebo (across which is a stone-paved dap-ay where rituals and dances are performed) and the areas used for conferences, seminars and workshops.  Workshops here offer livelihood and crafts demonstrations on woodcarving, bamboo crafts, papermaking, weaving, printmaking, rice wine making and solar drawing, all envisioned to foster a deeper understanding, respect and pride in the cultural heritage of the Cordillera people.  The latter, a specialty of  Mr. Mang-osan, is an ancient Ifugao technique wherein a wooden surface  is burned using the sun’s rays to create an image.  

Portrait Sketching Session with local artistsA highlight of our visit was having our portraits sketched (for a fee of PhP100 per sketch), using charcoal pencil, by one of the many well-known artists who have their artwork on display. Other members of our group tried a hot cup of aromatic native Arabica coffee or sipped a glass of Winers tapuy (made from rice) or bugnay (made from Benguet strawberries) wine. Come lunchtime, we were served native pinikpikan, kintuman (brown rice), a salad of Baguio veggies and strawberry crepes for dessert.   Pinikpikan is prepared by beating a live chicken with a stick prior to cooking. The beating bruises the chicken’s flesh, bringing blood to its surface, which is said to improve the flavor after cooking.   
Tam-awan Village: 366-C Pinsao Proper, Baguio City, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 446-2949.  Fax: (074) 442-5553.  Website: www.tam-awanvillage.com. Admission: PhP50 (adults), PhP30 (students and senior citizens), and PhP20 (children).
Baguio Convention Visitors Bureau: 2/F Philippine Tourism Authority Bldg., Abad Santos Drive, Burnham Park, Baguio City, Benguet.  Tel: (074) 442-4315.  E-mail: baguio.cvb@gmail.com.

Kape Alamid: My First Taste of Coffee Heaven (Rosario, La Union)

Kape Alamid

I first heard of kopi luwak from the 2008 movie Bucket List (literally, “things to do” before one “kicks the bucket” or dies) starring Academy Award winners Jack Nicholson (as hospital magnate and billionaire Edward Cole) and Morgan Freeman (as blue-collar mechanic Carter Chambers). Cole drinks a specific brand of coffee called kopi luwak, one of the most expensive coffees in the world, and Carter and Cole both “laugh till they cry” (an item from Carter’s bucket list) when Cole finds out that his favorite coffee comes from the undigested beans defecated from the Asian palm civet.  Well, so much for the movies.  However, the movie did bring out the curious in me as I added “trying out kopi luwak” in my own bucket list. Only lately did I find out that we had a local version called kape alamid (in the Tagalog area, but called motit coffee in the Cordilleras).

S.O.U.L. Cafe

Kafe alamid comes from civets (you guessed it, locally called alamid or musang)  who eat the coffee beans for their fleshy fruit pulp. Proteolytic enzymes in the civet’s stomach seep into the beans, making shorter peptides and more free amino acids and, when defecated, the beans keep their shape. After gathering, they are thoroughly washed, sun dried and lightly roasted. S.O.U.L (Soul for Spice of Urban Life) Café in Rosario, La Union was our first stopover (6:30 AM) on the road to Baguio City during the 5-day, North Philippines Visitors Bureau (NPVB) and Manila North Tollways Corporation (MNTC)-sponsored Lakbay Norte 2 Tour (officially launched on January 23 from the Victory Liner Terminal near Kamias St. in Quezon City).

Breakfast of Alaminos longanisa, garlic fried rice
 and tortang talong

Our hearty Filipino breakfast combo here consisted of Alaminos logganisa, boneless daing na bangus, garlic fried rice, hot chocolate, tortang talong made with creamy egg pesto and olive oil and, to kick start our day, an expresso shot of kape alamid with caramel. According to the menu, this expresso shot costs PhP350 and, according to the cafe manager, was sourced all the way from Cavite. This brewed concoction truly lived up to its name as one of the most expensive coffee in the world as it proved to be more aromatic and less bitter than the other coffee treats I’ve tried. Banish the thought of where it came from and you get a truly great coffee experience, with its great flavor without the bitter after taste of other brewed coffee.  Scratch this one from my bucket list.

The cafe’s chic interior

S.O.U.L. Cafe: Camp One, Rosario, La Union.  Tel: (072) 712-0852.  Fax: (072) 712-1190.