teamLab Botanical Garden (Osaka, Japan)

teamLab Botanical Garden

After our Tempozan Ferris Wheel ride and early dinner at Tempozan Harbor Village, we again boarded our van for 19-km. (25-min.) drive to experience the new interactive outdoor art exhibit of teamLab, an international art collective, at the 240,000 sq. m. Nagai Botanical Garden, an outdoor botanical garden in Nagai Park that opened in 1974.

Taking the light show out of the hustle and bustle of the city streets and into a more natural setting, teamLab aims to explore an environment where human perception expands from the artwork itself to the environment. Their stunning, immersive nighttime installation transformed the natural landscape into an interactive digital canvas.

From our drop-off point, it was still a long walk to the entrance. Nestled among the forests and fields of the botanical garden were a variety of illuminated exhibits, ranging in size and scope from subtle illuminations embedded in the grass to completely awe-inspiring radiant pillars that dance in the wind and reach into the sky. Once we entered the grounds, it felt like we were transported to a world, miles away from Osaka. Deep, meditative music filled the air as we walked through the wide pathway flanked by towering bald cypress trees.

The Resonating Trees Exhibit

While subtle at first, we began to notice that the lights illuminating the trees rose and fell in brightness, depending on your proximity to them. This is our first hint that this was more than just a walk in the garden—we were a part of the exhibit. We didn’t find any velvet ropes or “do not touch” signs here.  Instead, we were encouraged to see how our interactions, within this unique “ecosystem,” would influence our surroundings.

As we walked through the garden of The Resonating Trees Exhibit, the trees shone brightly. When we passed close by, the trees changed color and emitted a unique musical tone. This wave of light and sound continuously spred outward to the surrounding trees. If light approached from a distance, it signified the presence of other people or wildlife, turning the ecosystem into an active canvas. Because the artwork interacted directly with nature, the display shifted in response to the wind, rain, and the natural seasonal changes of the trees.

Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind

Rounding a corner, we saw The Sculptures of Dissipative Birds in the Wind installation, widely considered the signature and most spectacular open-air piece of the permanent exhibition.  It brings the invisible forces of nature—the wind and the physical flight of the birds—to life. Standing tall, on the edge of the lake, looking not unlike Van Gogh’s Starry Night coming to life here in Japan, the flowing swirls of color react to the flight paths of any passing birds that live in Nagai Park, further adding to the layers of interactivity throughout the gardens.

Lines and swirling patterns of bright, shifting light (in vibrant gradations of red, blue, green, and yellow) trace flight paths across the night sky and the installation’s structures. Because it reacts continuously in real time to actual wind speeds and the movement of the ecosystem, no two movements are ever exactly the same. Every second of the display is completely unique.  

Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit

Continuing along the pathway, through the trees, and the sights continued to change with the landscape at The Resonating Microcosms in the Common Camellia Garden Exhibit. Small, waist-high glowing eggs fill the forest around the camelia garden, which foreshadows the absolutely overwhelming mass of 10 ft. tall orbs in the eucalyptus garden. During the day, their mirrored surfaces reflect the surrounding environment but, after sunset, they come alive.  

Getting lost amongst these luminous ovoid sculptures was a highlight for us, putting a smile on our face.  As we walked among them or when the wind blew, the ovoids react, glowing in up to 61 distinct colors and emitting unique sounds. When we pushed one ovoid or when it responded to its surroundings, it echoed out to the neighboring ovoids, creating a continuous, rippling wave of light and sound throughout the entire garden.

Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life – Eucalyptus

At the Forest of Autonomous Resonating Life Exhibit, the densely packed, standing ovoids of light are autonomous. When an ovoid was pushed over, by people moving through or blown down by the wind, it rose back up as the color of its light changed and emitted a tone specific to that color.

The author

The surrounding ovoids responded one after another, continuously changing to the same color and emitting the same tone. When the wind was not blowing and the people nearby were not interacting with the ovoids, their lights began to blink slowly.

Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake

At the Floating Resonating Lamps on Oike Lake – Fire Exhibit, each of the lamps on the Oike Lake’s surface floated autonomously. When we stood still near a lamp, or when the wind blew a lamp, it shone brightly and produced a tone.

The light of that lamp spred to nearby lamps, one by one, as they resonated with the same tone, continuing on to the trees on the islet in the center of the lake. If light approached from the other side, it signified the presence of people there, making them more aware of the existence of others in the same space. When the wind was not blowing and people were not nearby, the lamps began to blink slowly.

Pillars That Dance with the Wind

At the Pillars That Dance with the Wind Exhibit, the installation challenged the traditional notion that human structures must be solid and stable (like concrete). Instead, the pillars were soft, flexible, and defined entirely by their environment. The pillars changed in number, movement, and height based on the wind, rain, and humidity. They also interacted dynamically with visitors who walked near or touched them, creating patterns that were never repeated. Because the artwork relied so heavily on real-time environmental data, strong winds or heavy rain could cause the installation to be temporarily closed for safety.

teamLab Botanical Garden: Nagai Park, 1-23 Nagaikoen, Higashisumiyoshi-ku Ward, Osaka. Nighttime only; hours vary by season (usually opens from dusk, roughly 7 PM to 7:30 PM, until 9:30 PM with last entry at 8:30 PM). Admission: ~¥2,000 to ¥2,200 for adults (prices can fluctuate slightly depending on peak or off-peak seasons), with discounts available for students and children. Tel: 06-6699-5120. Website: teamlab.art/e/botanicalgarden/

How to Get There: Take the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line to Nagai Station, a 10-min. walk on the Midosuji subway line. Take exit 3 and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates. From Exit 1 or 2, it is a brief 10 to 15-minute walk into Nagai Park to reach the botanical garden entrance. Via the JR Railway, it can also be reached via the JR Nagai Station, a 12-min. walk, on the JR Hanwa line (take the East Exit and walk east through Nagai park to access the admission gates).  Via the Kintetsu Railway, it is 15-min. walk from Harinakano Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka line. Take the West Exit and walk through Nagai park to access the admission gates.

Shitennō-ji Temple (Osaka, Japan)

Shitennō-ji Temple

After our visit to Osaka Castle Park, it was a short 4.7-km. (15-min.) drive to Shitennō-ji Temple.  The outer temple grounds are free to enter, but we paid admission to explore the inner precinct (Chushin Garan), the Gokuraku-jodo Garden and the treasure house. The stone torii gate at the main entrance to Shitennō-ji dates from 1294 and is the oldest of its kind in the country.

Check out “Osaka Castle Park”

Torii at entrance
Grace at a Purification Fountain (Temizuya)

Also called as Arahaka-ji, Nanba-ji, Mitsu-ji or  Temple of the Four Heavenly Kings (“Shitennō” refer to the Four Heavenly Kings in Buddhism), this Buddhist temple is sometimes regarded as the first and oldest of Japan’s officially administered Buddhist temples and the first ever to be built by the state (although the temple complex and the buildings themselves have been rebuilt a few times over the centuries; most of the present structures are from when the temple was last completely rebuilt in 1963).

Golden Pavilion (Kondo)

The temple was founded in 593 by Prince Shōtoku, who known for his profound Buddhist faith.  He supported the introduction of Buddhism  which was not widespread in Japan during the 6th century. In order to popularize Buddhism, Prince Shōtoku led a massive national project to promote Buddhism and he commissioned the construction of Shitennō-ji in the 6th century, inviting three Korean carpenters from Baekje who brought knowledge and led the construction. Later, one of the members involved in the initial construction of the temple established the firm Kongō Gumi (the world’s oldest company until it was acquired by the Takamatsu Construction Group in 2004), which specialized in temple and shrine buildings.

Pagoda (Gojunoto)

The temple Prince Shōtoku built to honor the Four Heavenly Kings had four institutions (Shika-in), each to help the Japanese attain a higher level of civilization, centered on the seven-building garan  (the complex inside the walls), which included a Kyōden-in (Institution of Religion and Education), a Hiden-in (Welfare Institution), a Ryōbyō-in (hospital), and a Seiyaku-in (pharmacy) to provide essential care to the people of Japan.

Lecture Hall (Koudou)

Within the pebble-covered courtyard of the inner precinct, the garan consists of a five-storey pagoda (which we entered and ascended), a main Golden Pavilion (Kondō) where Prince Shōtoku is enshrined as a statue of Bodhisattva Kannon, and a Kōudōu (Lecture Hall). 

Covered Corridors (Kairo)

The covered corridor (kairo) holds three gates – the Deva Gate (Niōmon, also known as the Chūmon), the Western Gate (Saijumon), and the Eastern Gate (Tojumon).

Chumon

The Chūmon is home to two Nio (benevolent guardians). Ungyo, on the left, represents closure or death. Agyo, on the right, symbolizes beginnings or birth.

Agyo
Ungyo

Surrounding this central complex are the Great South Gate (Nandaimon), and a Great East Gate (Higashi-no-ō’mon). To the west is the Great West Gate (Nishi-no-ō’mon, also known as Gokuraku-mon). Further to the west is a stone torii, which is imagined to be the Eastern Gate to Sukhavati, the Pure Land of the West. These gates are guarded by wooden statues called Nio (Benevolent Kings).

Great West Gate (Gokuraku-mon)

During the Kamakura period, three of the four sections are known to have existed inside the temple. Although the temple’s buildings burned down several times over the centuries, they were always carefully reconstructed to reflect the original 6th century design. Shortly after World War II, Shitennō-ji became independent of the parent Tendai sect and formed the Wa sect (Wa-shū) of Buddhism.

Kame-no-ike (Turtle Pond)
Prayer Hall (Rekujireisan-do)

A short walk away, the Gokuraku-jodo Garden, laid out in the early Edo Period, was designed in 1933 based on descriptions of the Western Paradise of the Amida Buddha. It has pleasant ponds and rock waterfalls, cherry trees, irises and stone lanterns. The Kame-no-ike Pond in the main complex is famous for its scores of basking turtles.

Northern Belfry

Also on the temple grounds is the Treasure House. It holds documents, paintings and sacred objects which are displayed in periodic themed exhibitions throughout the year as well as a number of National Treasures including swords said to have belonged to Prince Shotoku and a copy of the Heian Period Hokekyo sutra.

Nandai-mon Gate

Shitennoji: 1 Chome-11-18 Shitennoji, Tennoji Ward, Osaka, 543-0051, Japan.  Tel: +81 6-6771-0066. Open 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM (until 4 PM from October through March); slightly longer hours on the 21st of each month and on some other special days Admission: 300 yen (inner precinct), 300 yen (garden), 500 yen (treasure house)

How to Get There: Shitennoji is a 5-minute walk from Shitennoji-mae Yuhigaoka Station on the Osaka Municipal Subway Tanimachi Line, a 15-minute walk from Tennoji Station on the JR West Lines and the Osaka Municipal Subway Lines and a 15-minute walk from Osaka Abenobashi Station on the Kintetsu Minami-Osaka Line.

Osaka Castle Park (Osaka, Japan)

Osaka Castle Park

On our second whole day in Japan, we began our Osaka city tour with a stopover at 105.6-hectare (about 260 acres) Osaka Castle Park (known as Osakajo-koen in Japanese), a public urban park and historical site opened to the public in 1931.  The second largest park in the city, it lies on the south of the Ōkawa (Kyū-Yodo River) and occupies a large area in the center of the city of Osaka. It was well worth a visit, even if we didn’t intend to enter the castle. 

Osaka Castle

Forming the most attractive part of Osaka, here we can also view and enjoy seasonal flowers such as plum blossoms, 3,000 cherry blossoms (we arrived at the last week of March) and azaleas. This green and spacious expanse, built around the awe-inspiring tower of Osaka Castle (known as Osaka-jo in Japanese, the present castle is a concrete reconstruction that was finished in 1995), provided a pleasant escape from the otherwise crowded and concrete expanses of the rest of the city. 

Cherry blossoms

The castle grounds, which cover approximately 61,000 sq. m. (15 acres), contains 13 structures, around the 55 m. high main central tower, that were denoted as “Important Cultural Assets” by the Japanese government. They are Otemon Gate, Sakura-mon Gate, Ichiban-yagura Turret, Inui-yagura Turret, Rokuban-yagura Turret, Sengan Turret, Tamon Turret, Kinmeisui Well, Kinzo Storehouse and the Enshogura Gunpowder Magazine.

The author, Grace, Mark, Miguel, Nenette, Matthew and Jandy at Osaka Castle Park
The author, Jandy and Grace

Surrounding the main keep are a series of moats and defensive fortifications. The castle has an inner and an outer moat. The former, lying within the castle grounds, consists of two types: wet (northern-easterly) and dry (south-westerly), while the latter surrounds the entire castle, denoting its outer limits, and consists of four water-filled sections, each representing a cardinal direction (North, East, South, West).

Castle moat

Aoyamon Gate, in the northeast, and Ote-mon Gate, in the opposing southwest, are two main sentry checkpoints at the outer moat. Three sections of ‘dobei’ mud-and-plaster wall, all located around the Otemon Gate, all have their own Important Cultural Property status.

Otemon Gate

There are also some megaliths, with no cultural property status, at the castle, including the Takoishi (Octopus stone). The Fushimi-yagura Turret Remains, Ensho-gura Gunpowder Storehouse, Osaka Geihinkan, Hoshoan Tea House, Osaka Castle Nishinomaru Garden, Sengan-yagura Turret, Tamon-yagura Turret, Remains of Taiko-yagura Turret, Osaka Shudokan Martial Arts Hall, Hokoku Shrine (Osaka), Ichiban-yagura Turret (the first turret), and Plum Grove are all located between the inner and outer moat.

Sakuramon Gate

You can cross the inner moat via the Gokuraku-bashi Bridge (or Paradise Bridge), located in the north, and Sakuramon Gate, the main sentry point in the south.

Huge stones at Sakuramon-masugata Square

The Hommaru (Inner Bailey) and the Yamazato-Maru Bailey divides the castle into two major areas within the inner moat. The Main Tower, the Kimmeisui Well, the Japanese Garden, the Takoishi (Octopus Stone), the Gimmeisui Well, the Miraiza Osakajo Complex, the Kinzo Treasure House, and the “Time capsule Expo’70” are located within the Hommaru while the Marked-Stones Square, and the Monument commemorating “Hideyori and Yodo-dono committing suicide” are within the Yamazato-Maru, Bailey.

Expo ’70 Time Capsule

The Time Capsule Expo ’70 is a stainless-steel monument which marks the site of the 1970 Japan World Exposition time capsule buried 15 m., in 1971, by Panasonic and The Mainichi Newspapers.  The two identical capsules contain 2,098 everyday items from 1970 Time Capsule Expo ’70.

Site of Ichi-tamon Turret
Sengan-yagura Turret

In the park, there is Osaka Castle Hall, a large athletic field, baseball field, football field, open-air music theatre, open-air concert hall, and Osaka Castle Keep Tower where, from its top, the vista includes Osaka Bay to Mount Ikoma, which surround the Osaka Plain. Many busking groups perform in the park.

Tamon-Yagura Turret

The Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum, opened to the public last April 2025, allows visitors to view, firsthand, the original Toyotomi stone walls that had been hidden, for over 400 years, since the Toyotomi forces were defeated in the Summer Campaign of Osaka in 1615 and the Tokugawa Osaka Castle was built over them.

Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum

The three-storey Miraiza Osaka-Jo, right beside the iconic Osaka Castle Main Tower, is a historical complex housed in a former military headquarters built in 1931.  It offers the Kaiyodo Figure Museum, rooftop cafes with castle views, and samurai and ninja experiences where you can dress up in authentic gear and try stage combat sword-fighting in the basement.

Miraiza Osaka-Jo

Osaka Castle Park: 1-1 Osakajo, Chūō-ku, Osaka, 540-0002 Japan. Admission is free. Tel: 06-6755-4146. Coordinates: 34°41′14″N 135°31′33″E.

How to Get There: On Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, get off at Tenmabashi or Tanimachi 4-chome Station. On Osaka Metro Chuo Line, get off at Morinomiya or Tanimachi 4-chome Station. On the JR Loop Line, get off at Morinomiya or Osaka Castle Park Station.

Dotonbori District (Osaka, Japan)

Dotonbori District

The 4-star Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, the hotel that we stayed in, happened to be just 250 m. from Dōtonbori District, the vibrant, popular, neon-lit entertainment and dining district of Osaka for visitors to the city, boasting of a number of well-known restaurants offering a range of traditional and modern Japanese dishes.  Known as one of Osaka’s principal tourist and nightlife areas, the area runs along the Dōtonbori Canal, from Dōtonboribashi Bridge to Nipponbashi Bridge in the Namba district of the city’s Chūō Ward.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review:  Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi”

Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

Dōtonbori traces its history back to 1612, when merchant Nariyasu Dōton, the administrator of local canals, joined by Yasui Jihē, Yasui Kuhē, and Hirano Tōjirō, began construction of the canal on the southern edge of Osaka, aiming to increase commerce by widening the river.

View towards Shinsaibashi Shopping Mall

To get there, we passed through the huge tunnel of the Shinsaibashi shopping mall. We then proceeded to the main gathering spot, often called “Hina-dan,” which offers the best views of the iconic signs. Here, we encountered Kim Jong Un lookalike Howard X (Howard (X) Lee), a well-known professional Australian-Chinese impersonator and political activist.  Considered the world’s first professional Kim Jong Un impersonator, he is frequently spotted in Dotonbori and other Japan locations, holding a toy missile and attracting large crowds.

Kim Jong Un impersonator Howard X

When taking photos with crowds, he often appears in costume and is sometimes paired with Donald Trump impersonators, notably around major events like the 2019 G20 Summit in Osaka. Creating satirical scenes to promote democracy, his appearance sometimes leads to deportation or detention due to political sensitivities. To provoke reactions from North Korean delegations beyond Japan, he has appeared at the PyeongChang Olympics and the Paris Olympics and has a significant presence on social media platforms such as Instagram. 

View from Midosuji Avenue

Evenings are the best times to experience the dazzling, futuristic neon cityscape reflected on the canal.  Here, you can also take a Dotonbori Canal Cruise or city cruise, to see the neon lights from the water, or visit the massive Don Quijote store by the canal.  Though now mostly a dining and nightlife area, the Theater District is historically known as a hub for Kabuki and Bunraku puppet theaters. 

Dotonbori Canal

Centered along the Dotonbori Canal, Dōtonbori (bori from hori, meaning “canal”) is famous for its eccentric atmosphere and extravagant signage (including the iconic Glico Running Man Sign and the massive. 6.5 m. long moving crab sign at Kani Dōraku) and is a top tourist spot for nightlife, shopping, popular spots including Ichiran, and various street food stalls selling takoyaki (octopus balls), kitsune udon and ramen. 

Check out the “Glico Running Man Sign”

The author and Grace with the Glico Running Man Sign in the background

Dotonbori is considered as the city’s food capital or kuidaore, a Japanese word meaning to “ruin oneself or go bankrupt by extravagant spending on food” or, more pithily, “eat until you drop.” It is part of a larger proverb: “Ruin yourself with fashions in Kyoto, ruin yourself with meals in Osaka,” reflecting local priorities (and artistry) in the clothing and food of Kyoto and Osaka, respectively.  This phrase, associated with Dōtonbori, is often used in tourist guides and advertisements.

Rows of restaurants at Dotonbori District

On our first night in Osaka, we decided to dine at Botejyu (founded in 1946), located at the second floor of the Comrade Doton Building.   We waited in line for several minutes before finally being seated.  The menu and ordering are accessed on your smartphone via a QR code. 

Botejyu Restaurant

Here, we tried out, among other dishes, the okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients (shredded cabbage, eggs, meat, etc.). This specialty’s classic mayonnaise ingredient was developed by Botejyu. 

Ganko Sushi

On another evening, we tried out Ganko Sushi (since 1963) and Torikizoku (a popular, affordable yakitori chain. The latter is located at the Kuidaore Building, in front of which is Kuidaore Taro (also known as the Kuidaore Ningyo), a mechanical drum-playing clown, installed in 1950 as a mascot for the now closed Kuidaore Taro Restaurant which moved to a new location slightly east of his old haunt. Every March the visiting rikishi for the Osaka Grand Sumo tournament used to line up with Kuidaore Taro for photos.

L-R: Jandy, Miguel, Matthew, Nenette, Mark, the author and Grace at Torikizoku Restaurant
The mechanical, drum playing clown Kuidaore Taro

How to Get There: Located in the Minami district, Dotonbori, adjacent to the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street, is easily accessible near Namba Station.

Mitsutera Temple (Osaka, Japan)

Mitsutera Temple

Japan is known for being a heady mix of the old and new, and this is perhaps best exemplified by the way some of its high-rise blocks are carefully built around, or integrated with, ancient temples.  One such example is the ancient, charming Mitsutera Temple, known affectionately as Mittera-san by local residents.  Located along bustling Midosuji Avenue, a major artery in the center of Osaka, its main hall, dating back to the early 1800s, has been neatly embedded at the base of the large, 15-storey, 180-room Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi, in the city’s Chuo Ward. The first few floors are atrium-style to provide ample space for the hall.

Check out “Hotel and Inn Review: Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi”

Entrance to hotel and temple

Mitsutera Temple, founded in the Nara Period (710-784) by the renowned monk Gyōki (one of 49 temples established by him during this period) to serve as a burial site for Emperor Ojin (Japan’s 15th emperor), on the orders of Japan’s 45th emperor, is a member of the Omuro school of the Shingon sect of Buddhism headquartered at Ninnaji temple in Kyoto. After it burned down in the late Edo Period (1603-1867), the current main hall was rebuilt in 1808 and, in 1945, remarkably survived the Great Osaka Air Raid unlike many other wooden structures in the city.

View of temple from Midosuji’s sidewalk
Temple bell (bonsho or tsurigane)

A decline in parishioner numbers and an increasing demand for simplified funerals have made it difficult for the temple to financially survive.  In a rare partnership and an attempt to pass down the temple to posterity, Mitsutera temple entered into a fixed-term land leasehold agreement, of 50 years, with Candeo Hotels Osaka Shinsaibashi wherein Mitsutera will tap into the rent to cover expenses, such as repairs to the main hall and altar fittings.  The construction project was undertaken jointly by Mitsutera and Tokyo Tatemono Co., a property developer based in Tokyo’s Chuo Ward.

The 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva

From 2020 to 2023, it was physically merged and incorporated into the hotel, which was built directly above the temple. The entire main hall structure was jacked up and, to facilitate the new construction, relocated within the site and moved in one piece to sit alongside Midosuji’s sidewalk, allowing the tower block to be constructed behind and around it. On November 26, 2023, the temple’s main hall was opened there, creating a unique blend of traditional architecture and modern development.

For the aging temple, this creative solution preserved the history and architecture of this centuries-old temple, allowing hotel guests a special experience of staying almost at a temple, participating in religious practices, including morning prayers, eshakyo (transcription of sutra and Buddha images) and meditation. The main hall is within the first three floors.

Mitsutera Temple houses precious Buddhist statues and paintings that Osaka City designates as cultural properties. Decorated in lacquer, gold leaf, and flower petals, the main hall’s center is dominated by an 11-faced statue of the Kanzeon Bodhisattva, with eight other Buddhist statues (including figures such as the Buddhas Yakushi Nyorai and Kobo Daishi, among others) arrayed to the sides. 

This temple offers a black and white goshuin where you need to trace the lines and words color the picture and write your own wish. After that, they will help to stamp the special ink on the completed goshuin. Today, it is a pleasant experience to stroll in the area as the aroma of incense floats next to the fragrance of perfume from the boutiques of high fashion brands which line Midosuji.

Kannon Sacred Lottery (Omikuji) – fortune-telling paper slips found offering guidance on aspects like love, health, and work

Mitsutera Temple: corner of Midosuji Avenue and Mitsudera-suji Sts., 2 Chome-7-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0085, Japan. Tel: +81 6-6211-1982.

How to Get There: Mitsutera Temple, located near Shinsaibashi-suji and Dotonbori, conveniently situated within walking distance from both Namba Station and Shinsaibashi stations on the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line.

Arch of the Centuries (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

The Baroque-style Arch of the Centuries, the arched gate at Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas (UST), is a landmark which symbolizes UST’s role as a “gateway in history to the finest breed of Filipinos.”  It is one of the few relics left from original UST campus in the walled city of Intramuros which was destroyed in 1945 during the Battle of Manila in World War II, leaving the 17th-century campus completely destroyed.  This arch door, called Puerta del Colegio, faced the first Benavides Statue, which was located at Calle Postigo and Calle de Santo Tomas.

The Arch of the Centuries

In 1927, the university transferred here at its present Sampaloc site and the central lower section of the original facade of the first campus in Intramuros (the side facing the UST Main Building), built in 1680, was dismantle, piece by piece, in 1953, under orders of UST rector Jesus Castañon, by Carmelo Flavier Pablo of C.F. Pablo and Son, a precast contractor, and transferred to the present campus, taking a year to complete.  Carmelo Flavier Pablo also did the other half of the current structure (the side facing España Boulevard), a replica of the arch door inaugurated in 1954, as well as the statues, and the bas-relief panels. The arch became formally known as the Arch of the Centuries.

The original facade

On January 25, 2010, , along with the UST Main Building, the UST Central Seminary Building, and the university field, it was declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines. On January 18, 2015, during his visit to the university, Pope Francis passed through the arch.

Check out “UST Main Building”

One of the cultural icons of the University of Santo Tomas, it is often the site of important campus events such as the Thomasian Welcome Walk, UST’s tradition of welcoming the freshmen to the university by passing through the arch. The passing through also signifies the completion of their student life in the university when, after the baccalaureate Mass, the candidates for graduation exit through the arch during a parade.  There is an urban legend that claims prematurely exiting the arch, before graduation, would lead to a student’s debarment.

Jose Rizal commemorative plaque

Commemorative plaques, on its lower pillars, facing España Boulevard, honors two distinguished alumni, Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon (1878-1944), on the right and  José Rizal (1861-1896), on the left. The bronze marker, on the side of the left pier, tells the history of the arch. The words underneath it read, Gateway to the history of the finest breed of Filipinos, a reference to the UST alumni.

Manuel L. Quezon commemorative plaque

The statue of Thomas Aquinas, above the attic storey, portrayed as a young and energetic man seated on a chair (a depiction similar to the painting by Justus van Gent and Pedro Berruguete), was inaugurated on December 21, 1955. Flanking it are two female figures, the one facing west holding a cross, in her right hand, and an admiralty pattern anchor in her left hand while the one facing east holds a torch, in her left hand, while her right arm rests on a winged wheel.

Fountain of Divine Wisdom

These two figures correspond to the Fountain of Divine Wisdom (also called the Fountain of Divine Wisdom) and the Fountain of Human Wisdom (Fountain of Knowledge) that flank the arch. The Fountain of Wisdom, surrounded by four deer and open shells, consists of a barbed, quatrefoil-shaped basin featuring a sculpture of a lady standing on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four phoenixes) while holding a Bible who’s cover depicts the image of the Lamb of God.   The Fountain of Knowledge, surrounded by four owls of Athena and open shells, also features a sculpture of a lady (standing on a cylindrical pedestal adorned by the early disciplines offered in the university) on top of a lotus flower (its bowl carried by four sphinxes) while holding a globe.

Fountain of Knowledge

The main inscription, directly above the arch, is different on both sides. Four bas-relief panels, depicting the life of Thomas Aquinas, flank the main inscriptions.  The southwest panel depicts two angels giving him the girdle of chastity; the southeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas speaking to an icon of the crucified Christ; the northeast panel depicts Thomas Aquinas and the Eucharist; and the northwest panel depicts Thomas Aquinas taught by Saints Peter and Paul.

Bronze plaque that tells the history of the arch

A coat of arms, below the main inscription, features a double-headed eagle similar to the one used by Charles I, the King of Spain when the Philippines was discovered. The main façade consists of two columns, of the Doric order, on each side of the archway and the spandrels  consists of Baroque reliefs.

Arch of the Centuries: Plaza Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas, Manila.

UST Main Building (University of Santo Tomas, Manila)

University of Santo Tomas Main Building

The  majestic, 4-storey, Renaissance Revival-style Main Building of the University of Santo Tomas (UST), functioning as the university’s administrative center, is home of the Faculty of Civil Law, Faculty of Pharmacy, the College of Science and the Museum of Arts and Sciences. Designed by Fr. Roque Ruaño, O.P., this building, influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright‘s Imperial Hotel, Tokyo (which survived the Great Kantō earthquake of September 1, 1923 which flattened Tokyo and Yokohama), is the first earthquake-resistant building in the Philippines.

The author with the Main Building in the background

Construction of the building began on 1924 and, before it inauguration on November 12, 1927, the first classes were held there on July 2, 1927. Since then, it has been the focal point of the campus and all succeeding structures revolved around the Main Building.

Historical Research and Markers Committee plaque (1935)

Starting on January 4, 1942, during World War II, the Japanese converted the university into the Santo Tomas Internment Camp for Americans and other non-Filipinos, the internees occupying three floors of the building (465 died there from hunger and malnutrition). On February 3, 1945, during the Battle for Manila the university and its around 4,000 Allied POWs and civilian internees were liberated by the 1st Cavalry Division, tanks from the 44th Tank Battalion and Filipino guerrillas led by Capt. Manuel Colayco (a UST faculty member who died securing the place), the first building in Manila to be liberated.  After the war, UST resumed operation, holding classes in the building.

National Historical Commission plaque (2012)

The university and the building was visited by three popes: Pope Paul VI on November 28, 1970, Pope John Paul II on February 18, 1981 and January 13, 1995 (when UST hosted World Youth Day 1995) and Pope Francis on January 18, 2015 (though he did not enter the building). Queen Sofia of Spain also visited the building on July 6, 2012. On January 25, 2010, the National Museum of the Philippines declared it as a National Cultural Treasure.

Pope Paul IV Papal Visit Plaque

This 86 m. long, 74 m. wide and 51.5 m. (169 ft.) high, rectangular structure, with two patios  (interior courtyards), is actually made up of 40 separate structures independent from one another, with the only opportunity provided by pre-cast stab flooring. There are four corner units, two midsection units (rear and front entrance), one tower (including two elevator cores) and one entrance canopy.  Another 26 units consists of seven units for the Padre Noval Street side, seven units for the Arsenio H. Lacson Avenue (formerly Gov. Forbes) side, six units for the Dapitan Street side, six units for the España Boulevard side, four for the middle section (or paraninfo) and two stair sections adjacent to the tower and elevator core.

Tria Haec

Statues, standing on the pedestals on the fourth floor of the building, symbolize the spiritual and intellectual aspiration of the university. Designed by Italian sculptor Francesco Riccardo Monti, a faculty member of the College of Architecture, they were installed between 1949 and 1953.  The so-called “Tria Haec” (Latin for “These Three”), surrounding the clock, are three statues representing Hope (Spe), Faith (Fides, on top of the clock) and Love (Caritas).

Grand Staircase

To the right of the “Tria Haec” are theologians and historians such as St. Augustine, St. Raymond of Peñafort and Vincent of Beauvais (Dominican monk and writer of Speculum Maius). To their right, facing Padre Noval Street, are the tragedians Pedro Calderón de la Barca, Sophocles and William Shakespeare, while to the left are the philosophers Aristotle, Saint Albert the Great and Plato.  To the left of the philosophers, facing Arsenio Lacson Avenue, are the playwrights Lope de Vega, Aristophanes and Molière.

First two panels of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)
Third and fourth panel of History of the University of Santo Tomas Mural (Antonio Garcia Llamas)

At the ground floor lobby is the four-panel mural “The History of the University of Santo Tomas,” painted by Antonio Garcia Llamas between 1952 and 1954.  It depicts significant milestones of the university including its declaration as a Pontifical University on September 17, 1902 by Pope Leo XIII and the advent of co-education.  At the second floor staircase are paintings by Filipino masters Galo Ocampo and Carlos “Botong” Francisco.

The Foundation of the University of Santo Tomas by Archbishop Benavides (Domingo Celis)

Main Building: University of Santo Tomas (UST), España, Sampaloc, Manila. Coordinates: 14°36′37″N 120°59′21″E.

Sung Hot Cave (Ha Long, Vietnam)

Sung Hot Cave

The large, mysterious and beautiful Sung Sot Cave (also called “Surprising Cave”), on Bo Hon Island in the center of Ha Long Bay and the Tonkin Gulf, is the largest (it can accommodate up to 1,000 visitors at a time) and, possibly, the most prominent and most frequented by visitors of all the caverns in Halong.  Situated in a limestone massif, with an extremely developed karst terrain, is known for its impressive stalactites that hang from the ceiling, stalagmites that rise from the floor and vast, multi-chambered interior.

The winding stone stairway leading up to the cave entrance

In 1901, French geologist Henri Mansuy, in search of minerals, discovered this cave, describing it as “a cathedral crafted by nature herself,” giving rise to the moniker Grotte de la surprise, “the cave of surprise.” However, this name was not officially recognized until nearly 40 years later when a French travelogue was published in 1938. In 1993, just one year before UNESCO declared Ha Long Bay’s core region as a World Natural Heritage site, Sung Sot Cave welcomed its first visitors. Dubbed the “Opera House of Ha Long Bay,” it was named one of the top ten most beautiful caves in the world by the Czech Association of Travel Agents and Brokers.  

The stone stairway amidst lush vegetation

According to legend, thousands of years ago, during the reign of King Hung, the Van Lang kingdom faced an invasion by the Yin from China. In this moment of crisis, Thanh Giong, a three-year-old boy, miraculously appeared to aid the king. Riding a colossal iron horse and wielding a mighty sword, Thanh Giong, with extraordinary strength and courage, defeated the invaders. Breathtaking Halong Bay is said to be the site of this epic confrontation. After the battle, Thanh Giong ascended to heaven from this cave, leaving behind his legendary steed and weapon.

The cave entrance

Ha Long Bay has many other caves with varying degrees of accessibility and visitor numbers, some of which may be affected by tourism. Other caves with stalactites exist in the bay. Cap La Cave, in the Bai Tu Long Bay area, known for its unique stalactites and pristine nature, though it may not be currently accessible to visitors. Sung Sot Cave is an old phreatic cave which also include Tam Cung, Lau Dai, Thien Cung, Dau Go, Hoang Long and Thien Long.

The first chamber

Nowadays, these caves lie at various heights. From its truncated entrance chambers on a ledge high on the cliff, a passage of more than 10 m. high and wide descends to the south. Covering a total area of more than 12,000 sq. m., the cave is divided into three chambers with a wealth of stalagmites of various shapes. 

A cave pool

The island, and its cave, was the second stop of our Ambrose Day Cruise. Upon arrival at the island, Jandy and I, as well as other tourists from other boats, disembarked and queued up to climb around 100 winding stone steps, surrounded by lush forests, and then descend 10 stone steps to reach the cave entrance which is a small rock breach, 25 m. above sea level, halfway up the limestone mountain. 

Check out “Ambrose Day Cruise”

Part of the 800 m. long stone walkway

The path inside the cave was through an 800-m. long stone walkway, with gradual ups and downs, and lit, with colorful lampposts, to highlight its features, creating a vivid tableau and transforming the cave’s cold, empty feeling into a lively, captivating scene.  Some parts have a diffused orange light that creates a fanciful atmosphere, making the space more mysterious and attractive.  A dry cave, it allows for comfortable one-way exploration on foot, with a separate entrance and exit. 

Jandy in front of a cave drapery

At the. first chamber, the smallest of the three chambers at nearly 3,000 sq. m, is likely a “waiting room.” Here, there is a small, serene and shallow freshwater lake formed by rainwater trickling through the limestone cracks in the cave ceiling, with clear water that allows you to view the lake’s bottom, adding to the chamber’s mystical ambiance.  Its ceiling is covered with a layer of “velvet carpet,” with gleaming stalactite chandeliers hung 25 to 30 m. high in the outer chamber, including stone sculptures, banyan trees, dinosaurs, elephants, flowers, seals, etc.

The cave ceiling

The “Stone Waterfall,” on the eastern wall, is a massive, 18-m. wide flowstone formation that appears to be frozen in mid-flow.  Created by centuries of mineral-rich water flowing down a cave wall, its varying mineral content creates striking color variations ranging from pure white to amber and deep russet tones.  

The “Elephant,” near the transition between the first and second chambers, is a stalactite-stalagmite combination with a massive body created by the joining of the ceiling and floor, a clearly-defined trunk and tusks formed by small stalactites.

The second chamber (known as the “Royal Garden”), stretching an impressive 7,000 sq. m., is connected to the first chamber by a narrow rock path.  It opened to an enormous space with and enormous freshwater lake, stunning rock formations and huge and beautiful stalactites and stalagmites in unique and interesting shapes such as a buddha, a bird, a monkey climbing on the rock column, etc..  The “Royal Garden Stone,” a massive, flat-topped formation in the center of the chamber, resembles a royal viewing platform surrounded by stalagmites that look like courtiers paying homage.

The “Stone Curtain,” along the western wall, are thin, delicate (some just 2 to 3 cms. thick) and wavy stalactites that create an appearance of stone curtains or draperies, with beautiful banding patterns caused by varying mineral content.  The “Sword Lake,” a small, sword-shaped pool in the center of the chamber, is said to mirror Hanoi’s Sword Lake.  During certain lighting conditions, the stalactite’s reflection creates the illusion of a sword rising from the water. The “Buddha’s Palm,” a flat, hand-shaped formation near the exit, is believed to resemble Buddha’s hand in blessing.  Though conservation efforts now discourage this practice, many visitors still touch this formation for good luck.

The author with Jandy

Inside this chamber, there are also said to be monkeys scurrying around in quest of food and fun. Compared to the first chamber, this chamber’s karstification process has resulted in a clearer and more ventilated atmosphere due to its ceiling being peppered with thousands of small holes or natural skylights that creates magical light beams during midday hours. There are also several delicate rimstone pools, with crystal-clear waters reaching depths of 30 cms. that reflect the surrounding formations, contain unique microorganisms that have adapted to the cave environment.

The truly breathtaking third and last chamber, further inside, is the biggest chamber, able to accommodate thousands of people. Inside is a 12 m. high rock formation said to be the petrified form of the legendary, stern-faced Vietnamese hero Thanh Giong.

Near the entrance is a stone block, fashioned like a massive, battle-ready horse, and a long sword that Thanh Giong left behind to drive away evil spirits.  Also inside the cave are little ponds and lakes which are regarded as the hoofprints of Thanh Giong’s horse or Giong’s footprints. The cave’s highest point is a “royal garden” with a lake, many plant species, several bird species and panoramic views of the bay.

The cave exit

The final ascent to the cave’s exit took around 275 steps plus another 250 steps, another physical effort, down to the dock. Thought beautiful, with stunning natural formations and a cool, humid environment, our cave exploration was very tiring due to the inclines.

Exiting the cave

How to Get There: Sung Sot Cave, one of the destinations in the tour route 2 (one of 6 routes that bring visitors around Halong Bay), is a short boat ride, from two major ports in Halong – Tuần Châu Wharf (about 12 kilometers from Halong city center) or Halong International Cruise Port (it came into operation in 2019 and is closer to the city center and hence easy to travel), to the island.

To visit Sung Sot cave, travelers must first purchase entrance tickets to the harbor and then boat tickets. Tickets can be purchased at the booth on the right of the entrance of Tuần Châu Wharf. If you want to visit this cave, you need to buy a ticket for route 2, the only one with swimming and full of all kinds of experiences, from visiting caves, boating (or kayaking), swimming, sightseeing and relaxing. This is a half-day tour that lasts from noon to evening. It includes attractions such as Cave Park Conservation Center – Soi Sim Island, Ti Top Island, Sung Sot Cave, Bo Nau Cave, Ho Dong Tien Cave, Luon Cave, Trong Cave, and Trinh Nu Cave.

Entrance tickets for route 2:

Day trip ticket: VND 290,000 (USD 12.1) per person

Ticket for 2 days and 1 night: VND 590,000 (USD 24.6) per person

Ticket for 3 days and 2 nights: VND 790,000 (USD 33) per person

Boat tickets:

The boat fare for individual passengers for route 2 (including Sung Sot cave) is regulated by Halong Bay Management Board as VND 200,000 (USD 8.4) or VND 250 000 (USD 10.5)/pax + entrance ticket (not included) including food, drink and 50 000 VND (2.1 USD)/pax ticket for bamboo boat/kayaking and tour guides). The tour lasts from 5 to 6 hours. The departure times of the boats are 6:30 – 8 AM and 12 – 1:00 PM.

Ambrose Day Cruise (Ha Long, Vietnam)

Ha Long Bay

After breakfast at Tru by Hilton Viet Tri City Centre, we all boarded our coach for the over 4-hour/258-km. drive, including short stopovers at Hanoi and Hai Durong, to Ha Long Bay arriving, before noon, at the Ha Long International Cruise Port which just came into operation in 2019, is closer to the city center and, hence, easy to travel.

Ha Long International Cruise Port

Upon entering the terminal, we walked towards the berthing area of Ambrose Cruise which was to take us on a a modern, 5-star luxury six-hour day cruise of Ha Long Bay.

Ambrose Day Cruise

Launched in 2025, Ambrose Cruise is a 40 m. long, vessel, with three luxurious decks with an area of 400 sq. m.. Built in an elegant and sophisticated Indochina style, it can accommodate up to 99 guests.

L-R: Grace, Jandy, Lorraine and Lourdes at the sun deck
The jacuzzi pool

It has an infinity Jacuzzi pool on the second deck, an ocean-view restaurant and bar, a grand stage with a large LED screen and state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems, and a spacious outdoor lounge area.  I liken it to a “floating hotel” with high-class, 5-star standards.

L-R: Lourdes, the author, Grace, Jandy and Lorraine at the dining area
The lunch buffet

We arrived just in time for a premium gourmet buffet lunch with a wide selection of local traditional Vietnamese dishes, including vegetarian/vegan options, seafood, fish and chicken.  The spacious dining area featured a wooden ceiling, a yellow lighting system and black and white pattern floor tiles. 

Bai Chay Bridge
The Sun Wheel
The cable car tower of Queen Cable Car

We were soon on our way and, as we were dining, we had great panoramic views, from large windows, of the city’s harbor as well as its iconic landmarks such as the breathtaking Sun Wheel (a towering Ferris wheel, with 64 cabins, perched atop Ba Deo Mountain), the Queen Cable Car (known for having the world’s tallest cable car tower and a double-decker cabin) and the Ban Chay Bridge (a unique cable-stayed bridge) and, soon enough, of limestone islands such as Hon Ga Choi, Hon Dinh Huong and Hon Cay Dua.

Bo Hon Island

The first stop in our itinerary was Bo Hon Island where tourists can ride traditional bamboo rafts (a relaxed, local-guided option perfect for families or those wanting to soak in the scenery without paddling) or go kayaking (a self-paced adventure), paddling through the low archway of the natural tunnel of Luon Cave (Hang Luon), into a serene, enclosed lagoon, surrounded by limestone cliffs with lush vegetation, where you can spot rare orchids, ferns and playful golden monkeys.

Tradinional bamboo rafts
Kayaking at Ha Long Bay

Our next stop, also on Bo Hon Island, was Sung Sot Cave/Surprising Cave (Thien Cung Cave), the largest and the most beautiful cave in Ha Long Bay.

Check out “Sung Hot Cave”

Sung Hot Cave

After disembarking from the boat, Jandy and I and joined other tourists, from other boats, in exploring the cave’s stunning formations of stalactites and stalagmites and two vast chambers.

Ti Top Island

Our last stop was the 3.7-hectare Ti Top Island, one of the smallest islands making up Ha Long Bay and a not-to-be-missed stopover for tourists in the journey of exploring the bay. Originally called Nghia Dia or Hong Thap Tu, the island was renamed after the Russian cosmonaut Gherman Titov during his visit to Ha Long Bay in 1962. Here, tourist can go swimming along the beautiful, crescent-shaped Vang Trang Beach, with its smooth white sand beach, or hike up 400 steep steps, up a 100-meter high hill, to the island’s peak for spectacular panoramic bay views.

Sunset party at sundeck

Come sunset, a party was held on the sundeck where guests relaxed and served Vietnamese tea, cake, fresh fruits, and snacks.

Sunset at Ha Long Bay

Ambrose Cruises: 173 An Duong Vuong Street, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Vietnam. Tel/ Whatsapp: +84.987.876.013.  Email: contact@cruise-halong-bay.com.

Moana Cafe (Sapa, Vietnam)

Moana Cafe

After our visit to the Fansipan Peak and prior to our departure for Viet Tri (where we were to stay overnight at the Tru by Hilton Viet Tri City Centre), we dropped by the popular, internet-famous 10,000 sq. m. Moana Café, a coffee shop (offering Vietnamese drip coffee, fruit smoothies and simple snacks) and themed photo zone in Sapa perched on a gentle hillside, for a cup of coffee, at the open-air terrace or shaded pavilions, and some sightseeing. 

Open-air terraces

Known for its scenic and panoramic views, on clear days, it has numerous “Instagrammable” themed photo spots, with the misty weather sometimes creating a dreamy, magical effect while taking unique pictures against a stunning natural backdrop. 

The author, with Grace and Jandy, at the Bali-inspired Heaven Gate
The author and Grace at Mini Phu Quoc Proposal Bridge

This curated outdoor experience is a combination of nature, art-inspired installations, and creative photo opportunities.  The atmosphere inside can be described as a mix of art, nature, and a laid-back dining experience and its popularity can mean it gets crowded.  Every corner screams “come take a photo here.”

The iconic White Deer

The art-inspired sculptural installations and fantasy-inspired backdrops include the following:

  • The iconic White Deer
  • Giant blue Angel Wings
  • A pair of black and white Mandarin Duck statues – facing each other, their gracefully curved necks form a striking heart shape.
  • The Mini Phu Quoc Proposal Bridge – split into two sections, it is joined only by the touch of love, friendship and connection
  • A Bali-inspired gate (Bali Heaven Gate) – captures the essence of Bali’s charm in the heart of Vietnam
  • The 6 m. high, maasive and stylized Moana Girl – statue of a young Moana (Vaiana) with firmly closed eyelids, long flowing black hair and outstretch palms longing for the boundless blue sky. Its specifically constructed flooring is paved with transparent tiles, creating an illusion of a clear, mirror-like surface.
  • Infinity Lake – a virtual living spot, it has a white piano in the middle of the lake with clear waters that makes the lake’s surface lookslike a giant mirror reflecting the blue sky and white clouds.
  • A giant golden hand statue – provides ample space for visitors to stand on its palm.
  • The Moana Death Swing (Xich du tu than)– a psychological challenge for those with fear of heights.
  • Moana Sapa Flower Glass Box – nestled within the captivating Sapa-Moana film studio, this mesmerizing and ethereal attraction has an abundance of exquisite pink flowers adorning every corner.  Designed with lovers of the Muse Style in mind, it provides a perfect setting to showcase flowing dresses, cascading locks and gaze filled with dreams.
  • Rose Glass Cage – located to the left of the Moana Girl statue, it is a glass enclosure decorated with rose vines and a small chair.
  • The Giant Love Symbol – a huge 3 m. tall “Love” sign, in soft pastel pink, right on the road to the film studio and set on a platform decorated with charming stilt houses, terraced fields and mountains.
View of Sapa town from Moana Cafe

For clearer photos, consider visiting in the early morning or later in the afternoon. While the mist can be magical, clear weather will give you better views of of the Muong Hoa Valley and Fansipan Mountain.  They offer professional photography and rental of traditional Hmong and other Northern Highlands clothing.

The white piano on Infinity Lake

The place wasn’t cloaked in dense fog during our visit but the line to get a picture with any of this art installations was long and many were taking their time as they took over the space. A clever mix of playful architecture and scenic drama, it wasn’t luxury dining but about the view and the atmosphere.  It was not a deeply cultural experience, in the traditional sense, but rather a play of both fantasy and the majestic reality of the Northern Highlands.

Moana Girl

Moana Café: số 68 Violet, Phường Cầu Mây, Sa Pa, Lào Cai 330000, Vietnam.Tel:+84 853 693 666. Admission: 90,000 Vietnamese dong (includes a drink voucher which you can exchange for a complimentary tea, coffee or soft drink). Open daily, 6:30 AM to 7 PM.

How to Get There: the café is located about 2 kms. from the town center, and can be reached by taxi or motorbike.