Category Archives: SPECIAL TOPICS

Seoul Sky (Lotte World Tower, South Korea)

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E. Ganzon, Inc. at Seoul Sky

Part of Cebu Blue Ocean Academy-sponsored South Korea Tour

On the morning of our last day in South Korea, after breakfast at Fait Maison at Sofitel Seoul Service Residences, the seven of us all proceeded, with Injun and Frank, towards the nearby Lotte World Tower, the nation’s tallest and world’s sixth tallest (surpassing the One World Trade Center in New York City) building standing 123 storeys and 555 m. (1,821 ft.) high, where we were to visit the extremely popular Seoul Sky Observatory, one of the world’s best observation decks, located on floors 117-123.

Lotte World Tower, the 6th tallest building in the world

As the tallest building in South Korea, it is the only place where we can take in a gorgeous 360-degree view of the entire capital city which is beautiful, both day and night, and roaring with brilliant history and dynamic modern culture.  The Observatory offers a diverse range of unique experiences that can only be had at a thrilling height of nearly 500 m. in the air, including various exhibitions based on the theme “The Pride of Korea.”

Ticket office entrance

Seoul Sky, opened last April 2017, is the world’s third highest observation deck.  It is comprised of an exhibition zone gallery, observation deck, sky deck, two sky cafes (119th and 122nd floor), sky terrace, lounge, and a gift shop offering exclusive tower-themed souvenirs.

Ticket office

Visitors can see all of the different facets of Seoul Sky, ever-changing with the four seasons and time of day. Here, you can view the Han River from one side (including some of the bridges that span it), Seokchon Lake Park, Jamsil Sports Complex, Olympic Park and endless rows of apartment complexes from the other.  On a clear day, you can see as far as Songdo, Incheon and the Yellow Sea.

Exhibition Zone Gallery

Once in the main lobby area inside the Lotte World Mall, we found the entrance to the Seoul Sky Observatory. and inside is the main ticket booth and entryway,   Just a little past the ticket booth outside the doors is the Seoul Sky Gift Shop and the group ticket booth. After Frank redeemed our ticket vouchers at the ticket booth for individuals, we proceed back to the entryway, walking through a digital corridor and a security checkpoint before we took the elevator down to the second basement floor (BF2).

Oca, Mamel, Kim, Grace and the author at the Digital Corridor

The digital corridor features a ceiling that reinterpreted the beauty of Korean traditional architecture through the modern lens of Bon-Chang Ku, a world-renowned Korean photographer.  The ten photos on the ceiling depict the close up images of roof tiles, symbols, patterns and colors Deoksugung Palace, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace and Changgyeonggung Palace.

The ceiling of the Digital Corridor

We explored the Exhibition Zone Gallery where we saw some of the technology used during the construction of the tower such as the steel reinforcing bars and couplers, the outer covering glass and the GPS displacement gauge system as well as a sample of the excavated lithified rock.

Steel reinforcing bars and couplers

Outer covering glass

The exhibit also features several pieces of artwork displaying the history, culture, and pride of Korea’s foundation and success over the centuries, plus mesmerizing screens and light displays on your way to the Space Shuttle, the elevator that would take us to the Sky Deck at the 118th floor.

Scenery 2016 – Palace (Kim, Sang Gyun)

The Sky Shuttle is a double-deck (the world’s first and, at 496 m. tall, also the world’s tallest), extremely fast elevator that reaches a speed of 600 m. per minute (10 m. per second, the world’s fastest).

Sky Shuttle

During our quite short one-minute ride to the Sky Deck, we watched an amazing Korean-themed animated experience, playing on the ceiling and each of the three walls, showing a time-lapse construction of the tower. On our way up, our ears popped from the pressure change as we rapidly climbed the tower.

The Sky Theater

Before entering the Sky Deck, we first watched a short video (“Seoul Sky, the New World in the Sky”) at the small Sky Theater which includes important history clips of Seoul.

The view of the city unravels……

Once the video was finished, the screen receded and the first crescendo began as we were treated to sweeping views of the capital city.  On days when visibility is limited, visitors can still enjoy a clear sky through a pre-recorded video at Sky Theater.

The Sky Deck

The Sky Deck, located at 478 m., holds the Korea Record Institute and Guinness World Record as the highest glass-floored observatory in the world.  Standing or sitting above the 45 mm. thick glass floor, you can clearly see how high you are above ground.

View of whats below us from the glass floor

It’s an astounding perspective as we took pictures feeling suspended high in the sky but, if you stared too long, it can be quite disorienting, especially if you aren’t good with heights.  For an uninterrupted view, the observation deck has two storey-high glass windows.

The author on the glass floor

Going up a small escalator, to the 119th floor, we find the Sky Friends Dessert Café, a relaxing space where one can take a seat and try their one-of-a-kind menu which features some delicious ice cream (the Pasteur Milkbar) and sweets. This floor isn’t great to view around the tower but it’s still a wonderful spot to watch visitors taking selfies as well as watch their reaction to the glass floor.

The open-air Sky Terrace

The 120th floor holds the famous Sky Terrace, a stunning outdoor viewing platform which is open to the elements. Here, we had the opportunity to step outside the tower and feel the breeze 486 m. above the city. There are two open-air terraces, one facing northwest and the other facing southeast. If you are done exploring the tower, this floor is also the first floor that has access to the exit elevator.

Seoul Sky Cafe

The 121st floor, 500 m. above ground, also has access to the exit elevator and is where you can get on the elevator that takes you to the Sky Tower on the 123rd floor.  It has a gift shop (Seoul Sky Shop), where you can pick out the perfect souvenir (key chains, notebooks, photos, keepsakes, etc.) and, just above it, you can take some time to enjoy a cup of coffee or tea and relax for a while before taking more pictures.  At this floor, you can also take a moment to take a picture with the “I love Seoul Sky” sign.

The Seoul Sky Café, on the 122nd floor, is coined as the highest café under the sky.  This coffeehouse, a South Korean chain owned by the Lotte Group, serves coffee, tea and desserts.

The author and James goofing off……

The Sky Tower, a cozy and spacious, dimly lit premium lounge (the highest lounge in Seoul) on the 123rd floor, has a classy restaurant and bar overlooking the city. This is the perfect spot to grab a refreshing wine drink and let the sights of the city just sink in in a relaxing ambiance.

View of the Jamsil Sports Complex.  On the left is the Jamsil Baseball Station while on the right is the Olympic Stadium

Back at the basement floor (BF1), before leaving, I purchased Seoul Sky merchandise (key chains, ref magnets and postcards) from the gift shop (Seoul Sky Shop) for my son Jandy.

View of the Han Rivers and some of the bridges that span it.  At the center is the Olympic Bridge

One of the best times to go to Seoul Sky is before sunset when you get to see the entire city covered in sunlight transition to dusk. As the sun slowly goes down, watch as the colors change over the city. During this transition, the lights in the city will be turning on, and you get to see the bright lights of the city illuminate the night sky. When planning your trip to the tower, it is important to watch the weather forecast as rain, clouds, smog, and fog limits visibility from the top.

View of Olympic Park

The thrilling Sky Bridge Tour, a new attraction launched last July 24, 2020, allows visitors to walk, safely tethered, on top of the Seoul Sky Observatory, with the bridge connecting to Lotte World Tower’s two structures at the peak.  The 11 m. long outdoor bridge is 541 m. (1,775 ft.) above the ground.  Visitors start from the Sky Station at the 117th floor where they are briefed on the safety instructions and put on jumpsuit and gear before venturing out.

View of the nearby Lotte Hotel World

Seoul Sky: Lotte World Tower, 300 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul, South Korea.  Tel:  +82 2-1661-2000. Website: www.seoulsky.lotteworld.com.  Open Sundays to Thursdays, 10:30 AM  – 10 PM, Fridays to Saturdays & public holidays, 10:30 AM – 11 PM. Last ticketing one hour before closing. Admission (limited to date and time printed): adult (₩27,000, ages 13 years old and above) and children (₩24,000, 3 – 13 years old). The Sky Bridge Tour, 1 to 6 PM, hourly, costs ₩100,000 (including two photos).  A single price (₩50,000) is applied to all Fast Pass tickets, regardless of age, and can only be purchased at an on-site ticket office on the day of visit.

How to Get There: Get off at Jamsil Station (Line 2 or 8) and walk toward Exit 1 and 2. As you walk in the direction of Exit 1 and 2, you will see a sign “Lotte World Mall.” Enter the mall through this underground entrance and you will get to Lotte World Mall B1F.  By bus, use the Green Bus (3217, 3313, 3314, 3315, 3317, 3411, 3414 and 4319), Red Bus (1007-1, 1100, 1700, 2000, 6900, 7007 and 8001) and Blue Bus (301, 341, 360 and 362).  You can also take the Airport Shuttle (6000, 6006, 6705 and 676A).

Cebu Blue Ocean Academy: Building 5, EGI Hotel and Resort, M.L. Quezon National Highway, Looc, Maribago, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu 6015, Philippines.  Tel: (032) 888-9868.  E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com.  Website: www.cebublueocean.com.  Baguio City (Benguet) Sister School: Pines International Academy, Romel Mansion, 3 Ignacio Villamor St., Brgy. Lualhati, Baguio City, Benguet, Philippines. Tel: 1 754-255-9818. E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com. Website: www.pinesacademy.com.

Sinheungsa Temple (Sokcho City, South Korea)

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Main courtyard of Sinheungsa Temple

Part of Cebu Blue Ocean Academy-sponsored South Korea tour

One of the highlights of our visit to the very scenic to the often very busy Seoraksan National Park, Korea’s most beautiful national park, is our tour of Sinheungsa (sometimes spelled Shinheungsa), the District Headquarters Temple of the Third District of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, supervising all the temples located in the northeastern Gangwon Province Area.

Situated on the slopes of Seoraksan in Sokcho, Gangwon Province, it is translated in English as “Spirit Arising Temple,” “Divine Inspiration Temple” or “Burgeoning Temple” (referring to the budding of a lotus flower, the symbol of enlightenment).

Seoraksan National Park

One of two Buddhist temples within the bounds of the national park (the other is Baekdamsa), it is the main temple of the area known as Outer Sorak-san Mountain.  It is remarkable for its constant changing over the centuries (it not only changed its position and name, but also the school of Buddhism to which it adhered). The temple stores numerous works of Buddhist art such as paintings, sculptures and tapestries.

Check out “Seoraksan National Park”

Many tourists hiking Seoraksan pass by this ancient Korean Zen (Seon) temple (believed to be the oldest in the world) on their way up to Ulsanbawi (peak), reached by following the wall outside Sinheungsa.  They also come to this ancient temple, with its deep historical significance, because of its beautiful scenery.  Other temples with the name Sinheungsa are located in Seoul, Samcheok and Icheon.

Kensington Star Hotel, the original site of Hyangheonsa

Historical accounts vary as to whether this temple was first constructed (at the site of Kensington Star Hotel) by the famed Buddhist monk Jajang-yulsa (590-658 A.D.) in 653 A.D. (the sixth year of the reign of Queen Jindeok of the Silla dynasty), first called Hyangseongsa (Temple of Zen Buddhism), or in 637 A.D. following his return from studying in Tang China.

In 698 A.D., the seventh year of King Hyoso’s (687-702 A.D.) reign, it was destroyed by fire. Three years later, in 701 A.D., Sinheungsa Temple was rebuilt by Great Master Uisang-daesa (625-702 A.D.), another famous monk and founder of a religious sect, on the site of Neunginam Hermitage (the present location of Naewonam Hermitage). He also renamed the temple, this time to Seonjeongsa Temple.

Bojero – a pavilion built in 1770

For 1,000 years, the temple blossomed in reputation but, in 1642, the temple burned down again and it was rebuilt in 1648 during the 20th year of the reign of King Injo of the Joseon dynasty. Many of the buildings built during that time are still standing, like the sanctuary, Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, Myeongbu-jeon Hall, Boje-ru Pavilion, Samseong-gak Hall, etc.

According to a legend, after most of the monks at the temple left after the 1642 fire, the Three Venerable monks Yeongseo, Hyewon, and Yeon-ok all vowed that they would rebuild the temple one day, passionately praying the gido (ritual supplication prayer every day.  One day, they had the same dream in which an old silver-haired heavenly deity called Sanshin (Mountain Spirit) appeared and told them to change the location of the temple to the bottom of the gorge to prevent three big misfortunes.

Pointing to the ground where the temple is currently situated, he said, “If you build a temple here, there will be no damage from the three major disasters of fire, floods or storms.”  Afterwards, this deity disappeared.  Thus, the temple was re-constructed at the current location and renamed as “Sinheungsa,” meaning “the temple was blessed by God (sin) and became prosper (heung).”

During the 195-1953 Korean War, the temple was badly damaged.  In 1995, the Chinese character sin of the temple’s name was changed from sin (meaning “god”) to sin (meaning “new”), in their wish that the temple will revive Buddhism again in the Yeongdong area (eastern part of the Taebaek Mountain Range).

The author at Iljumun Gate

The first structure that greeted Frank, James, Kim and I at the temple is the top heavy Iljumun Gate (or “One Pillar Gate”). After passing through this entry gate, we noticed the sharp, jagged rocks of the 1,708 m. high Mt. Seoraksan (the third highest in the country) surrounding us on all sides.  After passing Iljumun , we soon came across the 14.6-m. (48-ft.) high, 108 ton Great Unification Buddha, a gilt-bronze Buddha statue called “Tongil Daebul” on the right.

Tongil Daebul (Great Unification Buddha)

The largest seated Buddha statue in the world, it is dedicated to Seokgamoni-bul (The Historical Buddha).  It sits atop a 4.3-m. (15-ft.) high lotus pedestal, of the same material, making the total height of 18.9 m. (62 ft.), excluding the lightning rod and the beautiful nimbus which surrounds Seokgamoni-bul’s head. It is flanked with 16 delicately engraved panels that tell the entire path of Buddha’s enlightenment through the words of Bodhisattva, messengers of Buddha’s teaching.

The 4.3 m. (15-ft.) high lotus pedestal flanked with 16 delicately engraved panels that tell the entire path of Buddha’s enlightenment through the words of Bodhisattva, messengers of Buddha’s teaching

This statue, serenely looking out on the amazing landscape of northern South Korea, cost 3.8 billion won (US$4.1 million) to erect, raised through the small contributions of over 300,000 anonymous donors visiting the temple over a decade in duration.  The construction started in 1987 and it was only finished in 1997 when the eyes were placed on the face. The statue, less than 50 kms. (30 mi.) from the impenetrable border between North Korea and South Korea, represents the crucial wish of the Korean people for the reunification of the divided country.

The beautiful nimbus surrounding the head of the Buddha.  Also shown is the center forehead adornment, half closed eyes and slight smile

The massive bronze statue is also positioned in the “Touching the Earth Mudra” (or the “Earth Witness Mudra”) which was the pose the Buddha had when he attained enlightenment. Tongil Daebul sits with legs crossed and half-closed eyes in meditation, his lips displaying a perceptible smile. His forehead is adorned with eight 8-cm. (3-in.) stones of amber, with a single piece of jade in the center that is 10 cms. (4 in.) in diameter. The Buddha’s robust torso is draped by a flowing robe with gentle folds, revealing the right shoulder.  The hands of Tongil Daebul are positioned in the mudra, symbolizing the “enlightened one.”

Contained within the hollow statue are three pieces of the Buddha’s sari, crystallized remains collected after his cremation, donated by the Myanmar government, and the Tripitaka, the original Buddhist scriptures.  The three sari are backed by three incarnations of Gwanseeum-bosal (The Bodhisattva of Compassion). The statue is fronted by beautiful bronze incense burners and lanterns. A great number of people come here to pray for their wishes.

A beautiful bronze lantern

In front of the Tongildae-bul are three pathways. The left pathway goes to Biseondae, a summer house where, according to legend, the fairy Ma-go rose to heaven. The middle pathway goes to Ulsanbawi, a natural big stone ball, and passes Naewon-am and Gyejo-am. It is also the way to the green bridge Sesim-gyo. The right pathway goes to the white bridge Sesim-gyo.

The closed spandrel arch Hyeonsu-gyo Bridge

We finally had your fill of this amazing statue (which took us some time) and we made our way up a path, for two to three hundred meters, then crossed a ravine beyond the statue via a newly built, closed spandrel arch bridge to the right called Hyeonsu-gyo.  After crossing the Hyeonsu-gyo Bridge, the long stone wall of the main temple grounds awaited us.

The long stone wall of the main temple ground

We entered the temple through the rather boxy Cheonwangmun (or Sacheonwangmun) Gate which mark’s the entrance of the temple’s boundaries.  It houses some excellent examples of the Four Heavenly Kings.

The boxy Cheonwangmun (or Sacheonwangnum) Gate

These four Cheonwang (king) statues, believed to be Buddha’s protectors and evil-fighters, are placed on either side – Jiguk Cheonwang (“King of the East”) with a sword, Damun Cheonwang (“King of the North”) with a lute, Gwangmok Cheonwang (“King of the West”) with a tower, and Jeungjang Cheonwang (“King of the South”) with a dragon.

L-R: Damun Cheonwang (“King of the North”) with a lute, and Jiguk Cheonwang (“King of the East”) with a sword

In contrast with the big, generous smile of Tongil Daebul, the intimidating expressions of these four Cheonwang (king) statues welcome all those that dare enter the temple grounds.

L-R: Jeungjang Cheonwang (“King of the South”) with a dragon, and Gwangmok Cheonwang (“King of the West”) with a tower

To enter the main temple courtyard, we had to pass through the low-lying Boje-ru Pavilion, along a wooden building on stilts that acts as a screen that hides the rest of the inner portion of the temple grounds at Sinheungsa Temple.

Boje-ru Pavilion, a wooden building on stilts

We had to watch our heads so that we don’t smack it up against the ceiling as we passed under it.

Entering the main courtyard from Boe-ru Pavilion

Straight ahead is the Geukrakbo-jeon (“Precious Building”) Hall (also called Kukrobojeon), the Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #14 which acts as the temple’s main hall. Its exterior walls are adorned with a colorful set of Shimu-do, Ox-Herding Murals that describes the practicing process in a mountain.  The stairs leading up to the hall are decorated with some ancient Gwimyeon reliefs.

Geukrakbo-jeon (Precious Building) Hall

The central chapel of Geukrakbo-jeon, located beside Samseong-gak, is Gangwon Province Tangible Cultural Property 14. It has an octagonal roof, three front rooms, two side rooms and also has a special structural pattern and a great variety of design. The canopy over the statue is the octagonal Bogung type of inner structure carved with a dragon. The flower figure window is very interesting.

The interior is elaborately decorated with a triad of statues (Korean Treasure #1721) centered by Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise) on the main altar. This statue is joined on on the left side by Gwaneum-bosal (Avalokitesvara, the Merciful Goddess” or the “Power for Amita-bul”) and Daesaeji-bosal (Mahasthamaprapta, the “Wise Goddess” or “The Bodhisattva of Wisdom”) on the right side.

Amita-bul (The Buddha of the Western Paradise), on the main altar, flanked by Gwaneum-bosal (Avalokitesvara, the Merciful Goddess” or the “Power for Amita-bul”) on the left, and Daesaeji-bosal (Mahasthamaprapta, the “Wise Goddess” or “The Bodhisattva of Wisdom”) on the right.

This triad, created by monk Muyeom (along with the monk Hyeonjin, they were the leading monk sculptors of the mid-17th century), dates back to 1651. The proportionate sizes of the three statues, seemingly simple, yet refined in appearance, speaks to the harmony of these Buddhist statues.

A pair of halls are located to the left rear of the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall. The first, Myeongbu-jeon (Judgment Hall), houses, under a beautiful red canopy, a statue of Jijang-bosal (the Bodhisattva of the Afterlife).  One of the most popular Bodhisattva shrine hall at a Korean temple, it’s meant to symbolize a “dark court” or “underworld.”  It is one of the more unique looking buildings in a temple because of its gruesome depictions of the afterlife, the uplifting paintings of salvation, the ominous judges and the serenely redemptive Jijang-bosal.

Myeongbu-jeon Hall

The triad (Korean Treasure #1749) on the main altar of the Myeongbu-jeon Hall, which is centered by Jijang-bosal was, like the triad inside the Geukrakbo-jeon Hall, also made by the monk Muyeom in 1651. Interestingly, various artists also participated in the production in separate procedures of the statues, including the molding, gilding and coloring of the three statues.

Samseong-gak Hall

To the rear of Myeongbu-jeon Hall is the Samseong-gak (“Three Saints”) Hall (also called Chilseong-gak), a shamanic shrine hall. It houses interesting, masterfully executed and vibrantly painted murals including images of of three Korean shaman deities – Chilseong (The Seven Stars), Dokseong (“The Lonely Saint”) and Sanshin (“The Mountain Spirit”), the modern Sanshin Taenghwa.  Its budo-won (stupa garden), containing 2 monuments, isdesignated as Provincial Tangible Cultural Property #115.

Murals of the three shaman deities

The temple also participates in the popular Temple Stay program which allows tourists looking to experience Zen meditation and asceticism to spend, for a fee, two or three days living the typical temple life of a Korean Buddhist monk, doing activities such as baru gongyang (communal Buddhist meal service), ceremonial service involving chanting, 108 bows aimed at removing 108 earthly desires, as well as programs of making a lotus lantern and Buddhist rosary.  The experience includes interpretations in Chinese, Japanese and English.  Visitors who donate money to the temple are given a new roof tile to write his wish on.

Rows of roof tiles with wishes written on it

Between Jeokmukdang and Beomjongru is an amusing figure of a turtle shooting water from its mouth. The sweet mineral water from this fountain is said to remove fatigue and provide freshness for those who drink from it.

The fountain

On the opposite side of the Kensington Star Hotel, at Hyangseongsa Temple Site, is a 3-story pagoda (National Treasure 443), an important cultural property and the northernmost extant Shilla Kingdom stone pagoda which demonstrates the traditional style of the Shilla period. Originally a nine-storey stone tower made of granite, only three storeys remain. When it was repaired, workers found a silver case for enshrining the sarira (bone fragments of Buddha, but it was empty.

The 3-storey Stone Pagoda at Hyangseongsa Temple Site

Sinheungsa: 1137 Seoraksan-ro, Sokcho-si, Gangwon Province, South Korea.  Open 24 hours.  Tel: +82 33-636-8001 and 033-636-7393.  Website: www.sinheungsa.krwww.sokchotour.com. Admission to Seoraksan National Park, where Sinheungsa Temple is located, is 2,500 won. Sinheungsa Temple itself is free.

How to Get There:

By Car: from Seoul, take National Road No. 6 and then National Road No. 44 in Yangpyoung. After passing Hongcheon, Inje and Hankyeryoung Service Area, join National Road No. 7 in Yangyang. Drive for 11.4 kms. to Naksan and soon you will reach Mulchi 3-way junction. Go left, following the sign to Seolakdong. Drive another 10.9 kms. and you will arrive in the parking lot at the entrance of Mt. Seolak.

From Inje, you can also take National Road No. 46 toward Misiryoung, not toward  Hankyeryoung Service Area. If you drive on the road for about 16.2 kms., you will reach the Yongdae 3-way junction. Make a right turn onto Lcal Road No. 466 and go another 13.6 kms. to Misiryoung. There is a 3-way junction with a sign for “Dae-myoung Seolak Leisure Town.“ From there, drive for 4.6 kms. toward Sokcho and you will get to ”Seokcho Plaza Resotel.”  Turn right and you will see “Cheoksan Hotspring” and, a little farther up, the hotel complex of Seolakdong and the parking lot at the entrance of Mt. Seolak.

By Public Transport:  From Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Express Bus Terminal St, Subway line No. 3 or 7, Orange or Dark green line), take the Express bus (available many times a day) to Sokcho or to the Sogongwon (small park) of Mt. Seolak. Local bus No. 7, from downtown Sokcho to Seolakdong, runs every 10 min. and it takes about half an hour. From Sokcho, you’ll need to take a bus (which leaves every ten minutes) bound for Seoraksan National Park. The bus ride takes around 20 to 25 minutes and the bus drops you off at Sogongwon, the entrance of the park.  From here, you’ll need to walk about ten minutes to get to Sinheungsa Temple.

Cebu Blue Ocean Academy: Building 5, EGI Hotel and Resort, M.L. Quezon National Highway, Looc, Maribago, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu 6015, Philippines.  Tel: (032) 888-9868.  E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com.  Website: www.cebublueocean.com.  Baguio City (Benguet) Sister School: Pines International Academy, Romel Mansion, 3 Ignacio Villamor St., Brgy. Lualhati, Baguio City, Benguet, Philippines. Tel: 1 754-255-9818. E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com. Website: www.pinesacademy.com.

National Museum of Korea (Seoul, South Korea)

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National Museum of Korea

Part of Cebu Blue Ocean Academy-sponsored South Korea tour

After lunch at Korea House Restaurant at Lotte Tower Mall, we all boarded our van for the 10.6-km. (20-min.) drive to the 295,551 sq.m. (3,180,000 sq. ft.). National Museum of Korea, the flagship museum of Korean history and art in South Korea.  The largest museum in the country and the sixth largest museum in the world in terms of floor space, the museum has been committed to various studies and research activities in the fields of archaeology, history, and art, continuously developing a variety of exhibitions and education programs.

Here’s the historical timeline of the museum:

  • In 1909, Emperor Sunjong established Imperial Household Museum, Korea’s first museum, at Changgyeonggung Palace.
  • In 1945, when South Korea regained independence, the collections of the Imperial Household Museum and the Japanese Government General Museum (administered during Japanese rule of Korea) became the nucleus of the National Museum’s collection.
  • During the Korean War, to avoid destruction, the museum’s 20,000 pieces were safely moved to Busan.
  • After the war, when the museum returned to Seoul, it was housed at both Gyeongbokgung Palace and Deoksugung Palace.
  • On July 19, 1972, the museum moved again to a new building on the grounds of the Gyeonbokgung Palace.
  • In 1986, the museum was moved again to the Jungangcheong, the former Japanese General Government Building, where it was housed (with some controversy and criticism) until the building’s demolition in 1995.
  • In December 1996, the museum was opened to the public in temporary accommodations in the renovated Social Education Hall.
  • On October 28, 2005, the museum was officially reopened in its grand new building in Yongsan Family Park in the Yongsan Districtin Seoul.
  • On June 24, 2021, in celebration of the museum’s 20th anniversary, the National Museum of Korea opened a new branch in the boarding area of Incheon International Airport, in front of Gate No.22.

The museum is situated on what used to be a golf course that was part of the Yongsan Garrison, the central command of the United States Forces stationed in Korea. In 1992, the US Army returned a part of the land to the Korean government, which went on to become the Yongsan Family Park. In, 1993, the plans for the museum inside the park but its opening was delayed repeatedly by a helipad, which was eventually relocated in 2005 by agreement.

Special Exhibition Gallery

Designed by Chang-Il Kim of Junglim Architects, this museum is divided into three floors with the left part symbolically supposed to represent the past, while the right side represents the future. The museum contains over 310,000 pieces in its collection with about 15,000 pieces on display at one time. It displays relics and artifacts throughout six permanent exhibition galleries such as Prehistory and Ancient History Gallery, Medieval and Early Modern History Gallery, Donation Gallery, Calligraphy and Painting Gallery, Asian Art Gallery, and Sculpture and Crafts Gallery.

Main Auditorium

As of June 2012, the museum houses 67 national treasures, 131 general treasures and four folklore assets.

The museum is made from fire-resistant materials and, in order to protect the artifacts inside, the main building was built to withstand a magnitude 6.0 Richter Scale earthquake and the display cases are equipped with shock-absorbent platforms. There is also an imported natural lighting system which utilizes sunlight instead of artificial lights and a specially designed air-conditioning system.

Open plaza

The vast steel frame and reinforced concrete building has a fine stone interior that interacts with the water element in front (Mirror Pond and the scenery of Namsan Mountain behind.  The ground floor also contains parks; an outdoor stone garden with indigenous plants; waterfalls and pools; and traditional dye botanical garden are harmoniously arranged in the green space of the museum to create an elegant cultural space.  There’s also a collection of pagodas, stupas, lanterns, and steles including National Treasure of Korea No. 2, the Great Bell of Bosingak, the exemplar of Korean bells of the Joseon period.

The museum also has special exhibition halls, education facilities, a children’s museum, huge outdoor exhibition areas, restaurants, cafes, and shops. The Open Plaza, designed to evoke the image of a maru (wooden floor), an architectural element unique to Korea, serves as a gateway to every point in the museum, including the exhibition halls and performance facilities. It also naturally connects with the neighboring Yongsan Family Park through Mirror Pond, Mir Falls, and Barong Tree Pond.

 

Prominently displayed at the lobby is the “Gyeongcheonsa Ten-Story Pagoda” from Gyeongcheonsa Temple (National Treasure of Korea No. 86), the first known Korean stone pagoda to be made of marble (most were made from granite).  Originally erected at the monastery Gyeongcheonsa (at the foot of Mt. Buso in Gwangdeok-myeon, Gaepung-gun, Gyenggi-do Province) in the fourth year (1348) of King Chungmok of Goryeo, it was illegally smuggled, from its original site, to Japan in 1907 by by Tanaka Mitsuaki, the Japanese Minister of Imperial Household Affairs but, in 1918, was eventually recovered with the help of two Western journalists, Ernest T. Bethell from England and Homer Hulbert from America, who launched an international press campaign denouncing the theft.

Grace and the author

L-R: Frank, Grace, Oca, the author and Kim

In 1960, it was reconstructed and restored at Gyoengbokgung Palace but, because of acid rain and weathering, proved difficult to conserve. So, in 1995, it was dismantled again to repair serious damage. After an exhaustive conservation treatment project that took ten years, the restored pagoda was reconstructed at its current location inside in the National Museum of Korea’s ‘Path to History’ when the museum reopened in 2005.

Exploring the museum….

This pagoda, extraordinary in terms of its form, is much more complex than most other pagodas. Its shape is very unusual, with a three-tier base, a complex polygonal shape for the lower part (from the first to the third tier), and a square upper part.

The Ten-Storey Stone Pagoda

The base and the main body are elaborately decorated with carvings of Buddhas, bodhisattvas, and floral designs.  On the body of the first storey is an engraved inscriptio, stating that the pagoda was built in 1348 (4th year of Goryeo King Chungmok). The eaves of the roof stones reflect the influence of Goryeo wooden architecture.

L-R: Injun, James, Kim, Engr. Ganzon, the author, Mamel, Grace, Frank and Oca

National Museum of Korea: 137, Seobinggo-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 04383, South Korea. Tel : +82-2-2077-9000.  Open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM., Wednesdays and Saturdays, 10 AM – 9 PM. Entry closes 30 minutes before the closing time.  Closed on New Year’s Day, Seollal (Lunar New Year’s Day and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving Day. Admission free but charges apply for special exhibitions. Website: www.museum.go.kr. Coordinates: 37°31′26″N 126°58′49″E.

How to Get There: By subway, take Line 4 or the Gyeongui-Joungang Line (Munsan-Yongmun) to Ichon Station. Go out Exit 2 and walk 150 m. toward Yongsan Family Park. Information on elevator: An elevator is located in the direction of Exit 1 and Exit 2 of Ichon Station.

Cebu Blue Ocean Academy: Building 5, EGI Hotel and Resort, M.L. Quezon National Highway, Looc, Maribago, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu 6015, Philippines.  Tel: (032) 888-9868.  E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com.  Website: www.cebublueocean.com.  Baguio City (Benguet) Sister School: Pines International Academy, Romel Mansion, 3 Ignacio Villamor St., Brgy. Lualhati, Baguio City, Benguet, Philippines. Tel: 1 754-255-9818. E-mail: pinesbaguio@gmail.com. Website: www.pinesacademy.com.

Immaculate Conception Metropolitan Cathedral (Roxas City, Capiz

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Immaculate Concepcion Metropolitan Cathedral

The Immaculate Conception Metropolitan Cathedral , considered one of the most beautiful in the country, is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Capiz.  Fronting the city plaza, opposite the Panay River and the Capiz Bridge (built in 1910), it was first built before 1698 but was destroyed during the January 4, 1698 typhoon.

The church’s Baroque facade

The church was rebuilt by Augustinian Father Domingo Horbegozo from 1728 to 1732, was damaged during the July 13, 1787 earthquake and was rebuilt with stone and galvanized iron from 1870 to 1885 by Father Apolinar Alvarez.  Father Alvarez also built the cemetery and installed an organ in 1885.  From 1885 to 1890, Father Lesmes Perez installed a ceiling of galvanized iron and plastered the walls with stucco.  It was reconstructed in 1954.

Following the creation of the Diocese of Capiz on January 27, 1951, the parish church was elevated into a cathedral.. However, the diocese retained the old name of Capiz as it predates the change of the city name to Roxas on April 11, 1951.

The church interior

The cathedral’s Baroque facade has a simple, semicircular arched main entrance flanked by two canopied, statued niches on the lateral panels and topped by a segmental pediment atop the string cornice of the first level.  It also has pilasters (decorative engaged pillars) with floral flutings and windows with segmented arch canopies and Baroque volutes (spiral scrolls).

The choir loft

Its architrave (beam spanning columns), devoid of embellishments, has a rectangular base topped by a broken curvilinear pediment (triangular gable) decorated with a statued niche in the center.  The cathedral is also one of the few churches where the dome and the roof are not held up by a single column traversing the interior of the church.

The main altar

The four-storey, rectangular bell tower on the left has one semicircular arched window on the first level and four in the highest level.  Inside the church is a main altar and two side altars.

Left side altar

Right side altar

Immaculate Concepcion Metropolitan Cathedral: Arsobispo Street, Roxas City, Capiz.  Tel: (036) 621-0617 and (036) 621-0327.  E-mail: immaculateconcepcion1@gmail.com.  Coordinates: 11°35′01″N 122°45′11″E.  Feat of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception: December 8.

 

How to Get There: Roxas City is located 110.5 kilometers (a 2.5-hour drive via the Iloilo East Coast-Capiz Road) from Iloilo City and 77.4 kilometers (a 1.75-hour drive via the Western Nautical Highway) from Kalibo (Aklan).

Church of St. Monica (Pan-ay, Capiz)

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Church of St. Monica

This church is an excellent example of Filipino Colonial Baroque style (defined by the used of attached coupled piers in the Corinthian style) that has blended well with the Neo-Classical influence.  It was first built before 1692 and rebuilt in 1774 by Augustinian Father Miguel Murguia.

The church’s Baroque facade

The church was greatly damaged by the March 5, 1874 (roof blown away) and January 17, 1875 typhoons (transept was toppled) but was rebuilt in 1878, restored by Father Jose Beloso in 1884 and beautifully repaired by Father Lesmes Perez in 1895.

In 1997, by virtue of National Historical Institute (now the National Historical Commission of the Philippines) Resolution No. 3, the church was declared as a National Historical Landmark and, on July 31, 2001, was also listed as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines.

NHI Plaque installed in 1997

On June 16, 2001, restoration of the church began and it was finished on May 4, 2008. The wooden trusses and the roof were replaced by a steel and galvanized iron structure.

The Augustinian emblem

This Latin cross-shaped church is 80 meters long, 25 meters wide, 18 meters high and has three-meter thick walls of white coral. Its simple but imposing Baroque facade is decorated by shallow paired pilasters (with narrow grooves in between which divide it into symmetrical and well-balanced rectangular sections.

The semicircular arch main entrance

The semicircular arched main entrance is flanked by two small niches with life-size statues of Augustinian saints St. Thomas of Villanova and St. Augustine and is topped by a rectangular carving of the Augustinian emblem.

Statue of St. Thomas of Villanova

The second level has an ornate niche of St. Monica topped by a rose window.  The curvilinear, undulating pediment has a relief sculpture in the center flanked by decorative stone blocks and topped by pineapple-shaped finials.

The church interior

Its richly decorated interior, the best-preserved in Panay, has a terra cotta tile floor (accented by colored marble and black slate tiles), and several elaborately carved, Baroque-decorated  retablos, done by Manila artisans, of silver and hardwood at the large central as well as the four lateral altars, all gorgeously decorated with various high quality, polychromed statues.

The retablo of the main altar

Jose Bergano (also called Sarhento Itak), the town’s greatest sculptor, did most of the bas-reliefs and religious statuary.     

The five-storey bell tower

The five-storey belfry, on the church’s left, has a quadrilateral base with octagonal upper stories (with two sides longer than the other).  It houses the Panay Bell which can be reached by a 63-step, independent steel stairway.  This unusually huge (affectionately called Dakong Lingganay, Hiligaynon for “Big Bell”), said to be the largest in Asia and the third biggest in the world, is 1.5 meters (five feet) high, two meters (seven feet) in diameter and weighs 10,400 kilograms (22,928 pounds).

Panay Bell

It was made from 76 sacks of gold and silver coins collected from the townspeople by Father Jose Beloso and cast in 1878 by the blacksmith and casting shop of Don Juan Reina (who settled in Iloilo City’s J.M. Basa Street in 1868).

View of the town from the bell tower

Its sound was loud enough to reach every nearby town (its echo can be heard seven kilometers away) but, after a month’s time, the bell cracked.

Panay Bell inscription

The bell’s long inscription reads: Soy la voz de Dios que lleva rey en zalzare desde el principio hasta el finde este pueblo de Panay para que los fieles de Jesus vengan a esta casa de Dios a recibir las gracias elestials.  (“I am God’s voice which I shall echo and praise from one end to the other of the town of Panay, so that the faithful followers of Christ may come to the house of God to receive the heavenly graces”).

A smaller bell cast in 1885 by Hilario Sunico

Eight small bells also surround this big bell.  One bell dates from 1721 and was cast by Benitus a Regibus, Hilario Sunico and Juan Reina.  Another was installed in 1867.

Another smaller bell cast in 1822

The L-shaped convent, also built by Father Beloso, was also destroyed by the 1874 and 1875 typhoons, elegantly reconstructed in 1892 by Father Miguel Rosales, O.S.A., finished in 1895 by Father Gregorio Hermida, O.S.A. and restored by Lesmes Perez, O.S.A..  Shortly thereafter, it was intentionally burned, along with the municipal hall, on orders of Spanish Governor-General Diego de los Rios to dislodge rebels from the town during the Philippine Revolution.

The new convent

On December 14, 2008, the modern convent (with remnants of the old convent incorporated into it) was blessed along with a replica of the Panay Bell located beside it.  Behind the church are remnants of a wall, said to have been part of a fortification.

Replica of Panay Bell

Church of St. Monica: Iloilo East Coast-Capiz Rd., Panay, Capiz.  Tel: (036) 651-9765.  E-mail: santamonicadepanay@gmail.com.  Coordinates: 11.555622°N 122.793905°E.  Feast of St. Monica: May 4.

 

How to Get There: Pan-ay is located 7.4 kilometers (a 15-minute drive) east of Roxas City.

The Colorful History of Taal Vista Hotel (Tagaytay City, Cavite)

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The present Taal Vista Hotel

A lot of my childhood memories included family visits to Tagaytay  City, the country’s other summer capital (after Baguio City), where we enjoyed the cool and crisp (average temperature is 22.7º Celsius) mountain air and a picture-pretty view of Taal Volcano from its original grand garden view deck – the English Tudor Mansion-style Taal Vista Hotel.

View from Taal Vista Lodge’s Dining Room of Taal Volcano and Lake

View of Taal Lake and Volcano Today. Beyond is the 947-m. (3,17-ft. high Mt. Makulot (or Mt. Macolod), Batangas’ highest mountain

In fact, it was the public viewing ground to major as well as mild to moderate eruptions  of the volcano on September 28, 1965 , from 1966 to 1970 (lasting from three to 65 days), 1976 (September 3 to October23), 1977 (October 3 to 4 and November 9 to 12), 1991, January 12, 2020 and July 1, 2021.

Taal Vista Lodge and its Garden Terrace overlooking Taal Lake and Volcano

Previously known as Taal Vista Lodge, it is the second oldest hotel in the country after the Manila Hotel (built in 1909). The hotel has its beginnings way back in 1935 when the Zamoras of Manila Hotel bought six hectares of flatland perched atop an incline along Ilong Kastila (people say it resembles a nose or ilong) from American teacher Hammon H. Buck, the Superintendent of Schools in Batangas, who lived in the Philippines from 1898 until his death in 1945.

Hammon H. Buck with his wife Dolores Angeles and their six children

Newly elected Philippine Commonwealth President  Manuel L. Quezon, who initiated the development of Tagaytay as a tourism destination (so much so that, on June 21, 1938, he converted Tagaytay into a chartered city by virtue of Commonwealth Act No. 338), instructed the government-owned and controlled Manila Railroad Company to build a lodge and golf course on Tagaytay Ridge.

Commonwealth Pres. Manuel L. Quezon

Under the supervision of the Manila Hotel Company (a subsidiary of the Manila Railroad Company), the lodge was built, its architect probably Andres Luna de San Pedro (son of renowned painter Juan Luna) who, just a few years earlier, renovated Manila Hotel to accommodate a suite for Gen. Douglas MacArthur.

Architect Andres Luna de San Pedro

Its contractor was probably the well-known engineering firm Pedro Soichi who built the Rizal Memorial Stadium in Manila and the Manila Metropolitan Theater in 1931. Both were favored by Quezon.  Upon the lodge’s opening on October 7, 1939, Quezon frequently held cabinet meetings in its premises.

The spacious Dining Room with a dance floor in the center

Typical bedroom of Taal Vista Lodge with porch ssed as a sitting room

A few years after it opened to the public, World War II broke out and the lodge became a vacation place for American servicemen.

From 1942 to 1945, when the Japanese occupied the country, Taal Vista Lodge was converted as officers’ quarters for the Japanese. After the war, the Philippine government took back control of the lodge.

On December 9, 1954, Alfredo Montelibano (Administrator of the Office of the Economic Coordinator) approved the rehabilitation and development plan for Taal Vista Lodge.

Taal Vista Lodge during the Post-War Period

The renovation included new cottages, cabanas, tea room and bar, three huge dining rooms (Lakeview Terrace, Alta Vista Pavilion and the Veranda), a children’s playground and sports facilities for horseback riding, basketball, volleyball, bowling, tennis and badminton.

Taal Vista Lodge

Between 1956 and 1964, Tagaytay  City began to be promoted as a major tourist attraction of the Philippines and Taal Vista Lodge was one of its leading attractions.

Pres. Elpidio Quirino

Among the prominent officials and personalities who stayed here include Pres. Elpidio Quirino (who also held cabinet meetings in the lodge); noted American newspaper publisher William Randolph Hearst, and Senate president Eulogio Rodriguez and his wife.

Japanese Crown Prince Akihito and Princess Michiko

On November 6, 1962, Crown Prince Akihito and his wife Princess Michiko of Japan attended a luncheon at the Lodge given in their honor by Vice-Pres. Emmanuel Pelaez.

Six First Ladies visit Taal Vista Lodge

On October 24, 1966, First Lady Imelda R. Marcos hosted a visit to the Lodge of five First Ladies of heads of state and government attending the Manila Summit Conference – Nguyễn Thị Mai Anh (wife of the President Nguyen Van Thieu of South Vietnam). Claudia “Lady Bird” Johnson (wife of US Pres. Lyndon B. Johnson), Đặng Tuyết Mai (wife of Prime Minister Nguyen Cao Ky of South Vietnam), Zara Kate B. Holt (wife of Prime Minister Harold Holt of Australia) and Jongkol Kittikachorn (wife of Prime Minister Thanom Kittikachorn of Thailand).

Taal Volcano’s 1965 eruption

After the 1965 Taal volcano eruption, Taal Vista Lodge suffered heavy losses due to the decreased number of guests. In 1968, the Office of the Economic Coordinator (OEC) decided to privatize Taal Vista Lodge which was put on the block through public bidding on June 18, 1968.

The Resorts and Hotel Corporation won the bid (the other bidders were Philippine Airlines and the Sulo Hotel Group).  The company refurbished the lodge, constructing new facilities including an annex dining room.

Taal Vista Lodge Dining Room

In 1973, Taal Vista Lodge, now a three-star hotel, boasted a large pavilion for dinner and dancing, a bowling alley, a golf course, a billiards hall and a horseback riding area beside the lodge.

On January 11, 1984, the Development Bank of the Philippines (DBP) took ownership of the Lodge and changed its name to Taal Vista Hotel. From 1984 to 1988, Hotel Development Corporation, its subsidiary, managed operations of the hotel.

Henry Sy, Sr.

In July 1988, DBP decided to sell Taal Vista Hotel through an unsolicited proposal from SM Investments Corporation (SMIC) headed by its chairman Henry Sy, Sr. who, when he was a young man, was one of the many regular visitors of the hotel, often choosing one spot on the grounds from which to gaze out and dream.

A 1954 photo taken by Ms. Felicidad Sy of husband Henry Sy sitting at the Garden Terrace of Taal Vista Lodge

From 1991 to November 5, 1999, SMIC added a new wing (Mountain Wing) which included a swimming pool where the rotunda is now located.  At that time, the hotel operated 83 guest rooms. On November 6, 1999, SMIC decided to close down the hotel for further renovation and construction of new facilities.

Taal Vista Hotel, 2004

In 2002, Sy had the hotel rebuilt, adding 2 new extensions on the east side of the complex to provide 128 rooms, conference facilities and amenities.  The central building (where the Lobby Lounge is now currently located) was reconstructed in the original English Tudor Mansion style.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The English Tudor Mansion style features a steeply pitched roof with an overlapping, front-facing gable; a facade accented with half-timber framing (widely spaced wooden boards with stucco or stone in between) and a prominently placed chimney.

Panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows at the Lobby Lounge allow views of Taal Lake and Volcano

Panoramic floor-to-ceiling glass windows were installed, allowing diners to watch, aside from Taal Volcano and Taal Lake, the 947-m. high Mt. Makulot (or Mt. Macolod), the fog rolling in, the captivating sunset and, at nighttime, the stars or the pinpoint lights of fishing boats and the lakeshore towns.

The Mountain Wing

After its reconstruction and expansion, this reinvigorated and now first-class hotel reopened its doors on March 27, 2003.  In 2004, further expansion of the hotel was made.  The Mountain Wing was extended (bringing the total to 128 rooms) and the swimming pool was moved to its present location.

Ms. Elizabeth Sy

Beginning 2009, SM Hotels and Conventions Corporation (MHCC), established on April 2, 2008, with Elizabeth Sy (Henry Sy’s daughter) as president, took over management of the hotel (the corporation remains to be its owner up to the present).

The Lake Wing

Thereafter, the construction of new hotel wing (Lake Wing) and renovation of the main lobby was started.  In 2012, the Lake Wing, with its new ballroom and additional 133 guest rooms (bringing the total number of rooms to 264), was inaugurated,

Organic Herb and Vegetable Garden

That same year, Taal Vista Hotel started the Organic Herb and Vegetable Garden which supplied the needs of its various food and beverage outlets (they have four – Veranda, Lobby Lounge, Taza Fresh Table and Alta Ridge Bar).

The 75th anniversary of Taal Vista Hotel

In 2014, as part of its 75th anniversary celebration, the old Magnolia Pavilion was reconstructed as Taza Fresh Table, a new restaurant which was opened on January 28, 2015.

Taza Fresh Table

The hotel has hosted many important international gatherings such as:

  • July 1 -3, 2009 – 44th meeting of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) Committee on Culture and Information (COCI)
  • March 3 to 6, 2015 – several ministerial meetings of the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Summit
  • September 11 to 14, 2017 – 23rd Senior Officials Meeting for ASCC (ASEAN Socio-Cultural Community) and 18th ASCC Council Meeting during 31st ASEAN Summit

The January 12, 2020 eruption of Taal Volcano

On January 12, 2020, after a hiatus of 43 years, Taal Volcano erupted and, on March 1, 2020, two months after the eruption, the COVID-19 pandemic forced the hotel to close its door to the public.

Taal Vista Lodge during the COVID-19 Pandemic

A few weeks later, the hotel reopened as a quarantine hotel for returning overseas  Filipino contract workers.  On September 4, 2020, the hotel reopened its food and beverage outlets to the general public and, a few days later, its guest rooms,  welcoming guests back under stringent health and safety protocols. 

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

I am wondering, with all the history attached to Taal Vista Hotel, why the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) hasn’t installed a historical plaque at the hotel’s facade.  The hotel has the distinction of being the second oldest in the country (after the Manila Hotel) and cabinet meetings of Pres. Manuel L. Quezon and Elpidio Quirino were held there in the past as well as meetings of APEC and ASEAN.

Taal Vista Hotel: Kilometer 60, Aguinaldo Highway, Tagaytay  City 4120, Cavite.  Tel: (632) 7917 8225.  Mobile number: (0917) 89-1254.  E-mail: reservations@taalvistahotel.com. Website: www.taalvistahotel.com.

Casa Real (Lingayen, Pangasinan)

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Casa Real (Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum) of Lingayen

The historic Casa Real (Royal House), located beside the town hall in the heart of Lingayen, Pangasinan, served as the provincial seat of government (where the Alcalde Mayor held office as the Provincial Governor and the Judge of the Court of First Instance) and is one of the oldest public buildings in Pangasinan.

The portico facade

Built in the 1840s, it once served as the seat of the provincial government, from the Spanish Colonial era up to 1918 when the seat of the provincial government was eventually transferred to what is now the Pangasinan Provincial Capitol Building.

2019 National Historical Commission Plaque

On February 16, 1901, after the Taft Commission organized Pangasinan as a civil province,  Judge William Howard Taft and his commissioners went to Lingayen, Pangasinan and were given a grand reception at Casa Real.  In 1919, the building was used as a school and later as offices of the Judge of the Court of First Instance.

In 2002, it was declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP), noted it as “an outstanding and unique example of civil architecture from the Spanish and American colonial periods.”

Casa Real survived the damages brought by World War II. However, the May 2008 Tropical Storm Cosme (international name: Halong) damaged the building, blowing away its heavy roof.

Later, the provincial government of Pangasinan  allotted funds for its renovation and the building was converted into the Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum which was formally inaugurated on September 8, 2023.

Check out “Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum”

 

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS

The two-storey, 1,480 square meter building has a portico façade, with square Doric columns that support a balcony, and topped by a triangular pediment with an oval keystone window (with spider web grilles) at the center.  Dentils frame the sides of the pediment. The lower storey has circular arched main entrance flanked by large rectangular windows with segmental arches.  Wooden French doors open out to the balcony.

The granite stairway leading to the second floor

The stairway leading to the second floor still retains its original piedra china, granite stones used as ballast for galleons and Chinese junks.  However, the original balusters are gone as they did not survive looting after Typhoon Cosme.  What you see are replacements. The original tin ceiling from Belgium has been replaced with fiberglass reproductions.

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum: Poblacion, Lingayen, Pangasinan.  Coordinates: 16.019805°N 120.230341°E.

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum (Lingayen)

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Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum

The two-storey, 1,480 sq. m. Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum, rightfully housed in the historic Casa Real (built in the 1840s) beside the town hall in the heart of Lingayen, the capital town of the province, is a collaborative effort between the Provincial Government of Pangasinan and various cultural institutions, with the primary goal of preserving and promoting the province’s cultural legacy.

Check out “Casa Real (Lingayen)“

Formal opening of the museum on September 8, 2023

Formally inaugurated on September 8, 2023, the name Banaan is derived from the Pangasinense word meaning “meeting place” or “convergence.”  It serves as a storehouse of diverse collection of Pangasinan’s history, heritage, ethnographic as well as contemporary art.

Ancient pottery

Among the collections to be presented in the museum include an assortment of artifacts from Pre-Colonial times such as ancient pottery, tools and ceremonial objects; traditional clothing and accessories, some crafts that will showcase the peculiar identity and customs of local villages; and also some contemporary masterpieces of modern Pangasinan artists.

A bull-drawn cart

The museum features eleven (11) galleries (three in the ground floor) that showcase the story of Pangasinan as a convergence point for culture, history, arts, education and innovation.  Knowledgeable guides lead us through the museum’s collections, providing insights into the region’s history and culture.

“Where the Asin and Bolo Embrace” Gallery at the museum lobby

Our hour-long guided tour of the museum began at the “Where the Asin and Bolo Embrace” Gallery at the Casa Real lobby where Pangasinan’s two major landscapes are featured -a salt farm in Dasol and verdant rice fields with bolo bamboo in the central part.

“Shape of Our Homeland” Gallery

From there, we were led to the “Shape of Our Homeland” Gallery, an orientation room where there are chairs and a huge screen for video showing. It also has maps of the province’s congressional districts and a chart showing the founding dates of the Pangasinan towns and cities.

Contemporary art at the Asin Gallery

The Asin Gallery, the third gallery at the ground floor dedicated for changing exhibits, is an opportune platform to feature local artists and artisans, as well as notable personalities and their contributions in Pangasinan.

Dancing Rings (Joe Datuin, 2008, stainless steel)

Depending on the theme and season, it will feature different art, culture, and history. During our visit, the Kaluyagan (meaning “province mates”) Art Exhibit, featuring works (some of it for sale) by 33 Pangasinense artists, based here and abroad, was ongoing.

“Watered by the Hands of Ama-Gaolay” Gallery

Going up the granite staircase to the second floor, we entered the “Watered by the Hands of Ama-Gaolay” Gallery, the Natural Heritage Room where paintings of Pangasinan’s flora and fauna are displayed.

. The province’s river systems

The province’s river systems are also highlighted.  The Natural History Exhibit, a section dedicated to the region’s biodiversity, features preserved specimens (civet cat, giant clam, etc.), informative displays, and interactive learning stations.

Princess Urduja (Margaret Estelle Blas

The Descendants of Apolaqui Gallery feature myths and legends, such as the Legend of the Hundred Islands plus an painting of Princess Urduja by Margaret Estelle Blas.

World War II artifacts and photo of a war-damaged Provincial Capitol Building

The “Beachhead of Valor” Gallery displays World War II artifacts (helmet, canteen, military patches, etc.), a reproduction of the war-damaged façade of the Provincial Capitol Building and a model of a Japanese Mitsubishi A6M “Zero” fighter hanging on the ceiling. Mounted on the wall is an old photo of the damaged Provincial Capitol Building and wartime newspaper clippings.

Model of a Mitsubishi A6M Zero Fighter hanging under the ceiling

The “Festivals by the Sea and the Fields” Gallery features traditional life and the festivals held by the towns in Pangasinan.

“Pilgrims Who Responded to the Call” Gallery

The “Pilgrims Who Responded to the Call” Gallery delves on the Pangasinense’s religiosity, Our Lady of Manaoag and the religious movement in the 20th century. Here, churches and faith healers are highlighted.

“Patriots and Nation Builders” Gallery

The “Patriots and Nation Builders” Gallery delves on the history and development of the province and the provincial contributions to the national identity of the country.

Salvador Bernal and Fernando Poe Jr.

Featured here are outstanding Pangasinenses such the late President Fidel V. Ramos (from Lingayen); writer and novelist Maria P. Magsano; educator, suffraguette and social worker Geronima T. Pecson (from Lingayen) and Speaker of the House of Representatives Eugenio P. Perez (from San Carlos City).

Victorio Edades and Francisco Sionil Jose

Also given a place of honor are actor, director, producer and National Artist (2006) Fernando Poe Jr. (from San Carlos City); National Artist for Theater and Design (2003) Salvador Bernal (from Dagupan City); painter and National Artist (1976) Victorio C. Edades (from Dagupan City) and writer and National Artist for Literature (2001) Francisco Sionil Jose (from Rosales).

Pantranco Bus

Replica of Manila-Dagupan railway locomotive

The Heritage Exhibits features rich displays of traditional clothing, accessories, and crafts that reflect the unique identity and customs of the local communities.

Replica of Bolinao Skull

Scaled Model of the Casa Real

The other galleries feature hand-embroidered veils; a replica of the Bolinao Skull (with its gold dental ornamentation); scaled models of the Casa Real and Provincial Capitol Building; small replicas of a bahay kubo, a Chinese junk, a Pangasinan Transport Co. (Pantranco) bus, the 0-6-2 side tank locomotive of the Manila-Dagupan Railway and even a bull-drawn cart full of baskets that were sold in a caravan.

Replica of a Chinese junk

To enhance the visitor experience, Banáan also has a carefully curated Gift Shop that offers unique souvenirs, local crafts, books, and artwork.

Gift Shop

Aside from guided tours, Banaan also offers special programs and activities, such as workshops, lecture series and cultural festivals. There are dedicated spaces for educational interactive workshops on traditional crafts, painting, music, and dance, which allow visitors to experience Pangasinan’s living cultural heritage firsthand, as well as for lecture series where invited speakers and experts will share their expertise on various aspects of Pangasinan’s history, archaeology, and culture.

Scaled model of Provincial Capitol Building

Banaan also hosts regular cultural events and festivals showcasing the vibrant traditions and celebrations of the region.

 

Bahay Kubo

Banaan Pangasinan Provincial Museum: Poblacion, Lingayen, Pangasinan.  Coordinates: 16.019805°N 120.230341°E. Entrance to the museum is via an online reservation system (launched last September 4) incorporated in the “See Pangasinan” website.  The link is promoted through the PTCAO/See Pangasinan Facebook page. Walk-ins are not allowed yet.

Steveston Tram Museum (Richmond, British Columbia, Canada)

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Steveston Tram Museum

The Steveston Tram Museum, housing the beautifully restored Tram Car 1220, one of the original trams that ran on Richmond’s interurban rail system and the largest artifact in the Richmond Museum Collection, allows visitors to experience authentic Interurban rail travel and learn about early 20th century transportation.

The left side of the museum

The bright red, 2,370 sq. ft.  museum, opened in May 2013 across the street from where the Steveston Station (which burned down in 1928 and replaced by a simple tram stop shelter in 1929) once stood, was designed by Birmingham & Wood Architects and built by Scott Special Projects Ltd., around the original tracks of the BC Electric Railway (BCER) Interurban Network.

The large windows at the right side of the museum

For 55 years, it provided an important economic and social connection between Richmond and the rest of the Lower Mainland. Today, you can still spot the original railroad path and power poles around the tram.

the Heritage Train Tracks at the rear of the museum

The building has 27-ft. high windows, a winch system to allow the tram  to be pulled out of the building for special events, and public art created by artist Mia Weinberg, a 1994 graduate of Emily Carr University of Art and Design, which will be integrated into the floor of the outdoor platform at the main entrance of the building.  It also has a community meeting room and had a restoration space (now converted into a programming space after the restoration was completed).

Heritage Train Tracks

Here’s the historical timeline of the BC Electric Railway Interurban Network:

  • In 1902, rail connection in Steveston started when the Lulu Island railway, owned by the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), ran freight and passenger steam trains to the area.
  • In 1905, the CPR leased the rail line to the BC Electric Railway Company (BCER), who electrified it for tram use. This was part of the BCER’s establishment of an Interurban railway network that would connect different communities throughout the Lower Mainland, otherwise difficult to reach.
  • In 1913, BCER added 28 1200-class tram cars bought from the St. Louis Car Company in Missouri (USA). Among them was Tram Car 1220.
  • By the 1940s, it had grown to 72 cars and 140,000 annual passengers

Tram Car 1220

Tram Car 1220, nicknamed the “Sockeye Special,” was discovered in a Mitchell Island warehouse in 1992.  Serving the local residents of Steveston to Marpole (located in south Vancouver), it was made of sturdy steel and wood, it was painted bright red.

The tram car could carry up to 64 seated passengers at a time.  They ran from the BC Electric Building at the southwest corner of Carol and Hastings Street to Steveston Village.

Tram entrance

On February 28, 1958, Tram Car 1220 made its final voyage between Marpole and Steveston, marking the end of an era for the Richmond community and for transportation history in BC.

Tram interior which looks like a glowing, wood and glass jewelry box. Beyond is the smoking area

After decades of being off the tracks, the City of Richmond acquired Tram Car 1220 and, on May 3, 2013, opened the Steveston Tram Museum which was inspired by the architecture of the first Steveston Tram Station.

A mini display.  On Saturday, the last train of the night (12 AM) leaving Vancouver carried Steveston revelers who strewed peanut shells from the snacks they’d bought from the station. Not surprisingly, this last-nigh service was locally known as the “Peanut Special.”

Five years later, after a painstaking, three-year, $400,000 restoration starting in 2016, the tram made an exciting return to its former glory.

Another mini display showing chickens, a milk churn and crates of vegetables that sometimes rode alongside passengers

Tram Car 1220 is one of only seven remaining BC Electric Railway cars, five of them in BC in various states of functionality (most of the interurbans ended up being burnt at the railyard under the Burrard Street Bridge).  Several “sister” trams are located in Metro Vancouver, as well as one in Ottawa (Car 1235 at the Canada Science and Technology).

Vintage advertisements, lining the tram;s interior, of products such as Eaton’s Tea, Dri-Glo, Barq’s and even Goodwin’s “corn dodger” shoes

In Metro Vancouver, you can visit the other surviving BCER cars at the Burnaby Village Museum (Tram 1223) or the Fraser Valley Heritage Railway Society  in Surrey where they offer hour-long rides around Cloverdale aboard Car 1225. 

Check out “Burnaby Village Museum” 

The author donning an motorman’s costume and cap

Jandy

When we entered the tram, a male costumed Heritage Interpreter dressed as a tram conductor immediately greeted us and walked us through, pointing out things that we would never have noticed – the smoking half of the tram with no ashtrays, the screws on the outside that are all aligned, etc.

The mechanical controls and the tiny motorman’s stool

The restoration inside was exceptional – from the rattan seats, graffiti to the match striker plates (where you can strike up a light) at the smoking section.

Vancouver Fares

Exhibits and child-friendly interactive displays also showcase this piece of Richmond history. One exhibit highlights the impact that trams had on Richmond and the Lower Mainland. It includes an extensive timeline on the history of trams which is complimented with footage of trams travelling through Richmond.

Interactive Tram Map

There is also a huge interactive map of all the tram routes that ran through Metro Vancouver.  Push buttons light up the five main lines and the stations that operate on them.

Brake lever, bell cord and conductor’s coin changer

Another interactive aspect of the exhibit is a display explaining how conductors would operate the trams with the ability to use the bell and handbrake that were onboard trams.

Main Station Clock

Another display on the tram car’s restoration process highlights the efforts of volunteers and paid professionals to bring the car to its past glory. Visitors can also dress up as a conductor.

Tickets of the Tram

Evocative artifacts on display include rail spikes, tram tokens, a 1950 employee badge, a 1914 tram whistle and a handsome clock of the type that would have hung on the wall of every station along the network.

1953 motorman’s cap, BCER employee badge, reverse key

Also on display are faded signs from several old stations (Steveston, Trucks and Woodward’s); a 1950s hat worn by a motorman (AKA tram driver); a fare poster from the line’s final years (an adult one-zone fare was just 13c), a brake lever, bell cord and conductor’s coin changer.

Restoring the Rare

Adjacent to the museum is the Steveson Nikkei Memorial, a public art and contemplative garden space unveiled on June 22, 2019, that honors the 75th anniversary of the evacuation, relocation, and internment of 2,500 Japanese Canadians from Steveston during World War II.  It further celebrates the rebuilding of the Steveston community following their return from internment in following the war. 

Steveson Nikkei Memorial

Steveston Tram Museum: 4011 Moncton St., Richmond, British Columbia V7E 3A8.  Tel: 604-238-8081.  E-mail: interurban1220@richmond.ca. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 12 to 4 PM (Spring, January 3 to May 19); daily, 10 AM to 5 PM (Summer, May 20 to September 4)  and Tuesdays to Sundays, 12 to 4 PM (Fall/Winter, September 5 to December 31). Closed on statutory holidays.  Admission is free.

 

Engine No. 374 (Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada)

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CPR Engine 374

After buying shoes at  MacArthur Glen Designer Outlet, Grace, Jandy, Kyle and I again boarded the SkyTrain from Templeton Station to Yaletown-Roundhouse.  Upon arrival at the station, we just walked about 250 m. to get the Engine 374 Pavilion, along the shores of False Creek in Yaletown.

CPR Engine 374 Pavilion

It houses a static display of historic Engine No. 374, a Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) steam locomotive that pulled the first transcontinental train (carrying 150 passengers) that arrived in Vancouver on May 23, 1887, finally joining Canada from the East Coast to Vancouver on the West Coast.

CPR Engine 374 Pavilion interior

This ten months after sister Engine No. 371 brought the first train to cross Canada into Port Moody on July 4, 1886, roughly 32 kms. (20 mi.) to the east.

CPR Engine 374 Tender

Portrait of Queen Victoria at the rear of the tender

It was renumbered three times – 374 until 1907, 92 until 1909, 245 until 1913, 158 until 1945.  Originally, it was equipped with a “diamond” smokestack but, when it got to British Columbia, it was swapped for a familiar “sunflower” stack.

Sunflower smoke stack

Engine No. 374 was built in May 1886 by the Montreal shops of CPR, one of eight (371 to 378) similar steam locomotives (with 4-4-0 wheel arrangement and having 69-in. driving wheels) built that year.  In the 1890s, the 69” drive wheels were replaced with 62” ones for better traction.

Driver’s Compartment

While No. 371 was scrapped in October 1915, No. 374 was completely rebuilt in September 1914 and continued in service until July 1945.

Because of its historical significance, upon its retirement, it was donated to the City of Vancouver on August 22, 1945.  It was placed  on display on a section of track in Kitsilano Beach Park, remaining there until 1983.

Due to exposure to the salt air and a lack of upkeep, it suffered greatly. In 1963, a vain attempt was made to move it into the former aircraft hangar (now the Community Music School) in Vanier Park.

Cowcatcher and headlight

In 1981, the West Coast Railway Association (WCRA), a group of railway enthusiasts, launched an effort to restore the engine.

Locomotive Whistle

The locomotive was moved from Kitsilano and placed in a warehouse in Granville Island where dedicated volunteers restored it to its former glory.   In 1985, the engine was transported North Vancouver’s Versatile Shipyards for final restoration in time for Expo 86.

Running Gear

On February 13, 1986, the refurbished Engine No. 374 was transported to the renovated former CPR Drake Street Roundhouse  where it was put on display on the turntable and became a prime attraction.

Coupler

After the Expo, the engine was placed inside the Roundhouse.  In May 1988, volunteers were allowed access to examine, clean and polish the engine and set up arrangements for a public opening.

Telegraph Set

In 1988, the Expo 86 site, including the Drake Street Roundhouse, was sold to Concord Pacific, and, in the course of the False Creek North Development Plan, the developer agreed to convert and expand the buildings to comprise the Roundhouse Community Centre (designed by Baker McGarva Hart and completed in 1997).

AAR knuckle coupler or Janney are semi-automatic form of  railway coupling that allows rail cars and locomotives to be securely linked together without rail workers having to get between the vehicles

Before the Roundhouse was converted, successful fundraising efforts were undertaken by the Vancouver Parks Board and the Lions Club, among others, to build a new building adjacent to the Roundhouse house Engine No. 374. The new building was inaugurated on August 22, 1997.

Old telephones and signages

Part of the floor of the building consists of 20,000 “Heritage” bricks which are engraved with the names of individuals who bought one brick (for $19.86 each), which raised funds (totaling $400,000) through the unique Heritage Brick Program sponsored by Imperial Oil Limited.  You can climb on board the cab and ring the bell.

Heritage bricks with names of donors

Here are the engines’ specifications:

Arbutus Corridor railroad spikes

The pavilion, now a central feature of the Yaletown area redevelopment, is staffed entirely by volunteers from the West Coast Railway Association and, on average, sees roughly 41,000 visitors per year as of 2015.

Plate used in CPR Engine 374

An anniversary celebration is held annually on the Sunday before Victoria Day.   The WCRA also runs the Railway Museum of British Columbia up in Squamish.

Check out “Railway Museum of British Columbia:  CN Roundhouse and Conference Center,” “Railway Museum of British Columbia: Pacific Great Eastern Car Shop” and “Railway Museum of British Columbia: Railyard”

 

Miniature railway village

Also on display old CPR Engine 374 photos and posters; a miniature railway village; model trains; old telegraph set, signages; old telephones, fine china used on the train; Arbutus Corridor railroad spikes; AAR Knuckle Coupler; etc.

Old photos

Canadian Pacific Poster

There’s also a gift shop selling souvenir Tshirts, mugs, plates and caps; train whistles; postcards; etc.

Gift Shop

The “Chinese Legacies: Building the Canadian Pacific Railway” Exhibit, circulated by the Revelstoke Railway Museum, explores the story of the Chinese laborers during the construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway’s transcontinental line, in the 1880s, the lasting impact it had on their lives, as well as their contribution to Canadian national development.

Chinese Legacies: Building the Canadian Pacific Railway

Engine 374 Pavilion: 181 Roundhouse Mews, Vancouver, British Columbia V6Z 2W3. E-mail: info@wcra.org. Website: www.wcra.org. Tel: (604) 713-1800.  Open Wednesdays to Sundays, 10 AM to 4 PM during the summer and 11 AM to 3 PM in the winter.  Admission is free.