Salzburg Cathedral (Austria)

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Salzburg Cathedral

This cathedral, of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Salzburg, is dedicated to Saint Rupert and Saint Vergilius. It was founded by St. Rupert on the remnants of a Roman town. The first cathedral was built under Saint Vergilius of Salzburg, who might have used foundations by St. Rupert.

The present seventeenth-century  Baroque cathedral was built in the seventeenth century under Prince-Bishop Wolf Dietrich Raitenau  (also responsible for the building of the nearby Alten Residenz, which is today connected to the cathedral), a patron and supporter of modern Italian Baroque architecture, having seen it from its origins in Italy and particularly Rome.

Statues of diocesean and cathedral patrons. The coats-of-arms of Prince Archbishop Guidobald von Thun and Prince Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun are at the bases.

Here’s a historical timeline of the cathedral’s construction:

  • In 774, the first Dom was recorded.
  • From 767 to 774, the so-called 66 m. long and 33 m. wide Virgil Dom was built
  • Archbishop Arno (785 – 821) was the first to arrange renovations of the Dom, which was in place for less than 70 years.
  • In 842, the building burned down after being struck by lightning.
  • Three years later, the re-erection of the building started.
  • Between 1000 and 1080, under Archbishop Hartwig, a long choir with a crypt was built and an extension of the rebuilt cathedral was built towards the towards the west
  • From 1106 to 1147, under Archbishop Konrad I, the west towers were built
  • In 1167, the Virgil Dom was seriously damaged in a fire.
  • In 1181, the cathedral was rebuilt during the reign of Archbishop Konrad III
  • During the early Middle Ages, the original church experienced at least three extensive building and rebuilding campaigns, the final result of which was a somewhat ad hoc Romanesque basilica.
  • In 1598, the basilica was severely damaged in a fire
  • After several failed attempts at restoration and reconstruction, Prince-Bishop Wolf Dietrich Raitenau (Archbishop from 1587–1612) ordered that the building be finally demolished.
  • In 1614, Mark Sittich von Hohenems (Archbishop from 1612–19 and Wolf Dietrich’s successor),  laid the cornerstone of the new cathedral.
  • In 1628, remarkably in less than 15 years, the cathedral was completed. That same year, the Marienglocke and the Virgilglocke, the oldest bells in the cathedral, were both cast.
  • On September 24, 1628, the cathedral was consecrated by Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron.
  • In 1652 and 1655, the towers were finished.
  • Between 1766 and 1771, the Maria Immaculata (Immaculate Mary) column was executed by brothers Wolfgang and Johann-Baptist Hagenauer.
  • During World War II, the cathedral was damaged when a single bomb crashed through the central dome over the crossing.
  • From 1945 to 1959, the Salzburger Dom was rebuilt in its original shape and reopened by Archbishop Andreas Rohracher.
  • On September 24, 1961, 5 new bells were added.

Coats of arms of Markus Sittikus and Paris Londron at the tympanum

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the cathedral:

  • The present cathedral was built partially upon the foundations of the old basilica. Indeed, the foundation stones of the preceding church building may be seen in the Domgrabungen, an excavation site under the cathedral that also features mosaics and other artifacts found here when this location was the forum of the Roman city Juvavum.
  • Italian architect Vincenzo Scamozzi was hired by Wolf Dietrich to prepare a plan for a comprehensive new Baroque building but the present cathedral was designed by Santino Solari, who fundamentally changed the original Scamozzi plan.
  • At the cathedral’s consecration, 12 choirs positioned in the marble galleries of the cathedral sang a Te Deum composed by Stefano Bernardi,   the Kapellmeister to the Salzburg court. The score has since been lost.
  • One other surviving relic that predates the Baroque edifice is the 14th century Gothic baptismal font.
  • Salzburg Cathedral still contains the baptismal font in which composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was baptized.
  • When the cathedral was completed, the relics of St. Rupert were transferred here.
  • The finished church is 466 ft. long and 109 ft. high at the crossing/dome.
  • The Baroque style can be seen in the choir and the nave.
  • The Salvatorglocke (“salvation bell”) of the cathedral, weighing 14,256 kgs., is the 2nd largest bell in Austria, after the Pummerin bell in Vienna Cathedral

Statues of the Four Evangelists

The cathedral is located adjacent to Residenzplatz and Domplatz (accessed by three open arcade arches in the north, south, and west) in the Altstadt (Old Town) area of Salzburg.

Statue of St. Paul

The “cathedral arches” unite the cathedral with the Salzburg Residenz and St. Peter’s Abbey , forming a unique self-contained square. It is 101 m. long, 69 m. wide and 81 m. high.

Statue of St. Peter

The richly decorated façade, made of bright Untersbergmarmor (Untersberg mountain marble) and divided into three horizontal sections, is framed by two towers and a curved gable.

Statue of St. Rupert

Three high round arches or portals, at the lower section, provide access to three bronze doors and are flanked by four large sculpted figures representing the diocesean and cathedral patrons.

Statue of St. Virgilius

The mitered figures of St. Rupert, holding a salt barrel, and St. Virgilius, holding a church, were created c. 1660 by Bartholomäus van Opstal. The inside figures of St. Peter, holding keys, and St. Paul, holding a sword, were sculpted c. 1697 by Bernhard Michael Mandl, who also created all the pedestals.

Interior of the cathedral

The coats-of-arms of Prince Archbishop Guidobald von Thun and Prince Archbishop Johann Ernst von Thun are at the bases. The mantelpieces, over the central windows, contain a lion and an ibex (the animals depicted in the coats-of-arms) and a golden crown that aligns with the Marien column in the Domplatz.

The main altar

The statues of the Four Evangelists (Saint MatthewSaint MarkSaint Luke and Saint John), at the central section of the façade, represent the salvation offered through their preaching.  The coats-of-arms of the builders of the cathedral, Markus Sittikus and Paris Londron, are at the top section tympanum.

The cathedral dome with frescoes depicting scenes from the Old Testament around it.  Above it are the coats-of-arms of Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron and Archbishop Andreas Roracher. At the corners are paintings of the Four Evangelists.

The figure group on the pediment, representing the Transfiguration of Jesus on Mt. Tabor, shows Christ as Salvator Mundi, with Moses holding the tablets on the left and the prophet Elijah to the right. Tommaso di Garona, the mason who built the Residenz Fountain, created the three statues in 1660. An old oven, used for baking communion bread, is housed in the north tower.

The main nave with paintings showing scenes from the life (10 smaller ones) and passion (15 large ones) of Christ, done by Donato Mascagni and Ignazio Solari.

The three bronze gates inside the portals, representing the 3 divine virtues (Göttliche Tugenden) of faith, hope and love, were erected in 1957 and 1958.  The Gate of Faith (Tor des Glaubens ), on the left, was created by Toni Schneider-Manzell (1911-1996); the Gate of Love (Tor der Liebe), at the center, was created by Giacomo Manzù (1908-1991); and the  Gate of Hope (Tor der Hoffnung), on the right, was created by Ewald Mataré (1887-1965). The flanking towers, also divided into three horizontal units, bear clocks and the bells.

Paintings on the main nave, showing scenes from the life (10 smaller ones) and passion (15 large ones) of Christ, were done by Donato Mascagni and Ignazio Solari. The stucco works were done in white (and crested by black stucco)  by Guiseppe Bassarino around 1628.  Four chapels, on each side along the main nave, each have a side altar and palatine frescos.

The 71 m. high dome, with two rows of eight frescos each, displays scenes from the Old Testament that relate to the life and passion scenes from the nave. They were also painted by by Donato Mascagni and Ignazio Solari.

On top of these paintings are paintings of the Four Evangelists (Mark, Luke, Matthew and John) and, beyond that, the coats-of-arms of Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron and Archbishop Andreas Roracher.

On the left and right side of the nave are motives of St. Francis and Virgin Mary respectively. To the left and right of the St. Francis Altar are epitaphs of Prince Archbishops Leopold Anton von Firmian (died in 1744), Guidobald von Thun (died in 1668), Max Gandolf von Kuenburg (died in 1687) and Jakob E. von Liechtenstein (died in 1747).

Around the Virgin Mary Altar are epitaphs of Prince Archbishops Andreas J. Dietrichstein (died in 1753), Johann E. Thun (died in 1709), Franz A. Harrach (died in 1727) and Siegismund Schrattenbach (died in 1772).

The main altar, probably built by Santio Solari in 1628, has a painting depicting the Resurrection of Christ and made by Donato Mascagni.

Above the painting are statues of St. Rupert and St. Virgil as well as allegories of Religio and Caritas. Between the figures is an inscriptions that reads: Notas mihi fecisi vias vitae (“You showed me the way of life”).

On top of the altar there are statues of angels holding golden crucifixes.  The right and left hand side of the main altar has epitaphs of Prince Archbishops Markus Sittikus (died in 1619) and Paris Lodron (died in 1653) respectively.

The main altar backdrop with a painting depicting the Resurrection of Christ made by Donato Mascagni

On the right hand side of the main altar is the entrance to the crypt (the tombs of the Archbishops of Salzburg) based on the foundations of the Romanesque Virgil Cathedral.

The Zehneckraum (“Ten corner room”) contains the tombs of the Prince Archbishops from the 17th to the 18th century. In the round tower is a mosaic showing the scale of the former Salzburger Dom in comparison to today′s cathedral.

The new organ built in 1988

The organ that is in use for services today was built in 1988.  The old organ is essentially the same as the one built by the famous organ builder Josef Christoph Egedacher in 1703.

The old organ built in 1703 by Josef Cristoph Egedacher

Salzburg Cathedral: Domplatz 1a, 5020 Salzburg, Austria. Tel: +43 662 80477950. Open 8AM-5PM. From June to September, there is a one-hour organ recital every Wednesday and Saturday at 11.15.

St. Peter’s Cemetery (Salzburg, Austria)

St. Peter's Cemetery

St. Peter’s Cemetery

After our tour of Hohensalzburg Castle and leaving the Funicular Railway entrance, we walked down the hill to nearby St. Peter’s Cemetery (Petersfriedhof) which, together with the burial site at Nonnberg Abbey , is the oldest cemetery in Salzburg and one of its most popular tourist attractions.   My original intention for visiting was to see for myself where the Von Trapps hid from the Nazis in “The Sound of Music” as some overenthusiastic tour guides would tell tourists visiting the place. I didn’t find it. Only later did I find out that the actual scene was just a studio set filmed in Hollywood, though its design is clearly based on St. Peter’s Cemetery.

Check out “Hohensalzburg Fortress

 

The Hollywood set of the Sound of Music

The Hollywood set of the Sound of Music based on St. Peter’s Cemetery

Still, the beautiful flower-filled cemetery of adjacent St. Peter’s Abbey (Stift St. Peter), sheltered by the Monchsberg, was still worth a visit for its rich history and carefully and lovingly tended  graves, many with flowering plants land small trees (it looks more like a garden than a cemetery).

DSC04885

It was probably laid out during the foundation of the abbey in 696 AD by St. Rupert of Salzburg. This burial ground was first mentioned in an 1139 deed  issued by Alcuin of York, an English scholar attendant, during the rule of Archbishop Conrad I.

More of a garden than a cemetery .......

More of a garden than a cemetery …….

Several tombs are located in arcades, with elegant wrought iron fences and lovely and ornate iron scrollwork crosses and grave markers, built at the foot of the Festungsberg Hill.

Arcade

Tombs located in arcades

Arcades (2)

The oldest preserved headstone is from 1288 AD. The cemetery is centered around the Late Gothic-style, stone block St Margaret’s Chapel (Margarethenkapelle), built in 1491, and the Romanesque-style Chapel of the Cross, dedicated about 1170 and refurbished as a mausoleum in 1614/15, according to plans by Santino Solari. The former contains some precious artwork inside and marble panels emblazoned on the wall.

St. Margaret's Chapel (Margarethenkapelle)

St. Margaret’s Chapel (Margarethenkapelle)

The chapel's interior

The chapel’s interior

The serene and unique cemetery grounds, probably the most peaceful stop in all of Salzburg, are also known for its underground ‘catacombs,’ a combination of natural and hand-excavated caves embedded in the limestone cliffs of Monchsberg.  Carved out of the conglomerate rocks of Festungsberg Hill, above the cemetery, they probably date back even further to 215 AD, from the Early Christian days of Severinus of Noricum during the Migration Period, serving as an Early Christian place of assembly and hermitage.  Up until 1454, only priests and monks were buried here.

Altar within the catacombs

Altar within the catacombs

Catacombs (3)

The catacombs include two chapels dedicated to St. Gertrude (Gertraudenkapelle) and Maximus (Maximuskapelle), a Christian martyr, consecrated in 1178 under the Salzburg Archbishop Conrad of Wittelsbach and dedicated to the assassinated Archbishop Thomas Becket of Canterbury.

Catacombs (2)

The cemetery was closed in 1878, slowly decaying until 1930 when the monks of St. Peter’s successfully lobbied for the admission of new burials.  Unlike most cemeteries around the world, you do not buy the plots here.  Instead, every 10 years, relatives of the dead must pay rent for the plot and must also be the caretakers.  If your family doesn’t pay your rent, they toss your body out.

Kyle, Cheska and Grace

Kyle, Cheska and Grace strolling around the cemetery grounds

Many members of Salzburg’s old blue-blooded patrician families are buried here, along with many other notable figures.  Architect Santino Solari, (1646), who designed Salzburg Cathedral, Hellbrunn Palace and the trick fountains, is buried in Crypt XXXI while Salzburg mayor Sigmund Haffner (1772), a patron of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart who composed a symphony and named a serenade after him, is buried in Crypt XXXIX. Maria Anna Mozart (Nannerl, 1829), elder sister of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and an exceptionally gifted musician herself, is buried in Crypt LIV, by the catacombs, together with the torso (his head is stored in an urn in St. Peter’s Church) of composer Michael Haydn (1806), the younger brother of Joseph Haydn.

Michael Haydn Grave

Michael Haydn Grave

Other prominent people buried here include architects Clemens Holzmeister (1983), Johann Georg von Hagenauer (1835, younger brother of Wolfgang Hagenauer) and Wolfgang Hagenauer (1801); composers Heinrich Ignaz Franz Biber (1704);  Salzburg mayors Johann Christian Paurnfeind (1768), Richard Hildmann (1952) and Heinrich Ritter von Mertens (1872); Mozart librettist Ignatz Anton von Weiser, (1785); conductor Bernhard Paumgartner (1971); opera singer Richard Mayr (1935); painter Georg Pezolt (1878); historian Franz Martin (1950); artist Carl Mayr (1942, elder brother of Richard Mayr);  poet Otto Pflanzl (1943); actor Georg Schuchter (2001); politician Hans Lechner (1994); noblemen Hans Stefan, Count von Heistler (2010), Viktor Schmidt, Count von Heistler (2011), Alfred Schmidt, Count von Heistler (2011) and Wulfric Brian von Heistler (2011); and US Army Major General Harry J. Collins (1963).

View of Salzburg from the catacombs

View of Salzburg from the catacombs

We also climbed a steep set of stone-carved stairs to view several rooms with altars, faded murals and inscriptions of the fascinating catacombs. Here, we had amazing views of the city. On our way out, we passed a water wheel which runs in the cemetery.  At one time, it supplied power for industries run by the friars.

Water wheel

Water wheel

St. Peter’s Cemetery: Sankt-Peter-Bezirk 1, 5020 Salzburg, Austria. Tel: +43 662 844576. Open daily,  6:30 AM -7 PM (April-September) and 6:30 AM – 6 PM. (October-March). Admission to cemetery is free; Catacombs:  1€ (adults) and 0.60€ (children).

Hohensalzburg Fortress (Salzburg, Austria)

Fortress Hohensalzburg

From Krapitelplatz (Chapter Square), we made our way towards Hohensalzburg Fortress.  The whitewashed and solidly built Hohensalzburg Fortress sits atop a rock spur on the  Festungsberg, a small hill at an altitude of 506 m. high above the rooftops of the Baroque historical district.  It can be seen from almost anywhere in the city.

Check out “Kapitelplatz

At the “Sperrbogen” (entrance gate to the fortress grounds), we used our Salzburg Cards for free entry to the fortress and went up there via elevator.  Our card allowed us to tour the fortress’ entrance courtyards and observation tower (Footpath Ticket).

The fortress consists of various wings and a courtyard with a few shops for souvenirs and a place to get a bite to eat at the Panorama Terrace.  Cannons were placed in strategic locations on the battlements.

View of Salzburg from atop the fortress

From the fortress, we had a magnificent, 360 degree views of the Old Town of Salzburg, the Salzach River and the surrounding panorama of the Alps.

Here are some interesting trivia regarding the fortress:

  • The fortress was erected at the behest of the Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg who, in the Holy Roman Empire, were already powerful political figures. They expanded the castle to protect their interests.
  • With a length of 250 m. (820 ft.) and a width of 150 m. (490 ft.), it is one of the largest and best preserved medieval castles in Europe and the largest preserved fortress in Central Europe. It has 50 buildings and covers an  area of 33,000 sq. m.
  • The Austrian Nonnberg Abbey commemorative coin (the first coin of the series “Great Abbeys of Austria”), minted on April 5, 2006, shows the Benedictine convent of Nonnberg Abbey while, on the hilltop on the background, the Hohensalzburg castle and the Kajetaner church castle
  • In 1977, the Austrian Mint issued a coin for the 900th anniversary of Hohensalzburg castle.
  • The Reisszug, a very early and primitive funicular railway built in 1892 that provided freight access to the upper courtyard of the castle, still exists (albeit in updated form) and is the oldest in Austria and probably the oldest operational railway in the world.

Kyle beside one of the fortress’ cannons

The fortress had a number of museums which were not included in the Footpath ticket. The Fortress Museum  has historical exhibits that focus on the lifestyle and courtly life led by the prince archbishops and documents the history behind the building of what remains the biggest fully preserved medieval fortress in Europe.

The Marionette Museum, housed in the vaulted former gun deck (“Feuergang”), is dedicated to the “World of Marionettes.” One focus of this exhibition is the history of Salzburg itself.

The Altes Zeughaus,  an interactive exhibition at the historical Zeughaus (arsenal), shows how the defensive fortifications of Hohensalzburg developed over time with the introduction of firearms.

It documents the development of cannons, armaments and firearms, and the effects of such developments on the design of fortifications. Visitors, with the help of interactive models, can actually experiment with the various attack and defense strategies affecting medieval fortresses.

Bas relief of the coat-of-arms of Salzburg

The Museum of the Rainer Regiment, commemorating the former Salzburg house regiment (formally known as “k. u. k. Infanterieregiment ‘Erzherzog Rainer’ No. 59”), exhibits weapons, uniforms and other memorabilia from times of war and peace.

Leon Einberger Atelier

Its state apartments were primarily used for representative purposes and for festivities.  The rooms in which the archbishops would normally have lived were one floor below. The bedchamber is the most intimate room of the princely chambers.

Marionette Museum entrance

The Prince-Bishop’s magnificent state apartments, installed on the third floor, in the so-called “Hoher Stock” (high floor), were started in 1498 by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach who, in order to gain more space, had four massive marble pillars constructed on the right-hand outer wall with a loggia added on.

St. George’s Chapel

As in the other rooms, its ceiling is coffered with each coffer being adorned with gold buttons symbolizing the stars in the sky. The 17 m. long beam, supporting the ceiling, is painted with the coat of arms of von Keutschach, together with those of the Holy Roman Empire, the most powerful German towns and the bishoprics that were connected to Salzburg. In many places in the fortress, the coat-of-arms can be found, an indication of prince-archbishop Von Keutschach’s building activity.

At a later time, Von Keutschach had one of the figure consoles in the beam ceiling removed to make room for a chapel to be built.  Its ceiling is decorated with a richly ornamented star vault while the inner part of the door at the entrance is covered with stucco. Red columns, on a high plinth with grey capitals, is shown at the painted frame.

At the tympanum, beneath the mitre, legate cross and sword, the coat of arms (a special feature is the turnip) of Salzburg and of Leonhard von Keutschach is reproduced. In the chapel’s north wall, there are two openings which made it possible to attend the church service from the side room.

The bedchamber’s original furniture and precious textiles, such as tapestry were, in the course of time, replaced by more “modern” ones. The upper part of the panels of the elaborate wainscoting (which keeps out the cold) is decorated with gilded buttons and rosettes.

Entrance to St. George’s Chapel

The now bare lower part was probably covered with leather or velvet tapestry. The toilet, a highly modern sanitary facility back in the past accessible from each floor, is basically a hole in the floor with a wooden frame and is concealed by a door.

Relief of Leonhard von Keutschach blessing the city of Salzburg

 Here is the historical timeline of the fortress:

  • In 1077, construction of the fortress began under Archbishop Gebhard von Helfenstein. This original design was just a basic bailey with a wooden wall.
  • In 1462, the ring walls and towers were built under Prince-Archbishop Burkhard II von Weißpriach.
  • In the 16th century, the current external bastions, added as a precaution because of fears of Turkish Invasion, were begun and completed in the 17th During his term from 1495 until 1519, Prince-ArchbishopLeonhard von Keutschach  further expanded the castle.
  • During the German Peasants’ War in 1525, the fortress came under siege (the only time in its history) when a group of miners, farmers and townspeople tried to oust Prince-Archbishop Matthäus Lang, but failed to take the castle.
  • In 1612, the deposed Archbishop Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau died here in prison.
  • During the Thirty Years’ War, Archbishop Count Paris of Lodron strengthened the town’s defenses, including Hohensalzburg. He added various parts to the fortress, such as the gunpowder stores and additional gatehouses.
  • During the Napoleonic War of the Second Coalition in 1800, the fort was surrendered, without a fight, to French troops under Gen. Jean Victor Marie MoreauCount Hieronymus von Colloredo, the last Prince-Archbishop, fled to Vienna.
  • In the 19th century, it was used as barracks, storage depot and dungeon
  • In 1861, the castle was abandoned as a military outpost.
  • From the late 19th century onwards, Hohensalzburg castle was refurbished and became a major tourist attraction.
  • In 1892, the railway to the Hasengraben Bastion was put into operation. The former house of Johann Michael Haydns was converted into the Valley Station.
  • During World War I, it was used as a prison, holding Italian prisoners of war
  • In the 1930s, before the Anschluss with Germany, it was used as a prison for Nazi activists.

The richly decorated Golden Hall, the most magnificently furnished room of the princely chambers, indicates that the fortress served the archbishops not only as a refuge in times of crisis, but frequently also as a residence up to the 16th century. Its two long walls are taken up by richly decorated (with vines, grapes, foliage and animals) benches that used to be covered with cloth or leather, but the upholstery has not survived into the modern age. The lower part of the walls also used to be adorned in gold-embossed leather tapestry.

 

The “Salzburg Bull” (Salzburger Stier), a large aerophon of more than 200 pipes, is housed in the Krautturm (powder tower). This huge mechanical organ, built in 1502 by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach, was renewed by Rochus Egedacher in 1735.

The “Salzburg Bull,”  played daily, from Palm Sunday to October 31, at 7 AM, 11 AM and 6 PM, thus initiates the playing of the carillon at the Residenzplatz and ends it again. One of Austria’s most famous cabaret groups is named after it.

The author (left) at Hohensalzburg Fortress. On the right is the 16th century cistern

Instead of the elevator, we exited the fortress via the Festungsbahn cable car.  Opened in 1892, the most recent renovation of the Festungsbahn took place in 2011 (two new carriages and technical upgrades to the electronic equipment).  It leads up from the town to the Hasengrabenbastei and runs every 10 minutes. The valley station is located in the heart of the historic district (No. 4 Festungsgasse).

Entrance to funicular railway

The funicular (better known as a tram or cliff lift) travels a total distance of 198.5 m.  (beginning at 437 m. and rising to 536 m.) and our ride lasted just under one minute and, from its big observation windows, we were treated to fabulous and sensational views extending across beautiful downtown Salzburg City to the surrounding mountains.

The funicular railway

After our funicular ride, we dropped by the Rdzeniewski, the biggest amber shop in Europe, opened in 2002 at the foot of the fortress, before proceeding to St. Peter’s Cemetery.

Check out “St. Peter’s Cemetery

 

Rdzeniewski

Fortress Hohensalzburg: Mönchsberg 34, 5020 Salzburg, Austria.  Tel: +43 662 84243011. Open daily, 9:30 AM -5 PM (January-April and October-December), 9 AM – 7 PM (May to September). 

Admission:

  • Basic Rate (Including ascent and descent by fortress funicular,
    guided tour with audio guide, Fortress Museum, Rainer Regiment Museum, Marionette Museum, Alm passage exhibition, Arsenal exhibition): €12.90 (adults), €7.40 (children, 6-14 years), €28.60 (families), €11.90 (per person for groups of 10 adults or more) and €6.80 (per person for groups of 10 children/youths or more, 6-19 years) People with disabilities greater than 50% receive a reduction.
  • All Inclusive Ticket (Including ascent and descent by fortress funicular,
    Princes’ Apartments in the main castle and the Magic Theater, guided tour with audio guide, Fortress Museum, Rainer Regiment Museum, Marionette Museum, Alm passage exhibition, Arsenal exhibition): €16.30 (adults), €9.30 (children, 6-14 years), €36.20 (families), €15.00 (per person for groups of 10 adults or more) and €8.60 (per person for groups of 10 children/youths or more, 6-19 years)
  • Footpath (includes ride down on the funicular, entrance courtyards and observation tower, with audio guide): €10.00 (adults), €5.70 (children, 6-14 years), €22.20 (families), €9.20 (per person for groups of 10 adults or more) and €5.20 (per person for groups of 10 children/youths or more, 6-19 years)
  • Panorama Ticket (Including ascent and descent by fortress funicular, entrance courtyards and observation tower, with audio guide, available May–September: 8:30 A -10 AM and 6 – 8 PM; October–April: 4- 5 PM): €11.00 (adults), €6.30 (children, 6-14 years), €24.40 (families), €10.20 (per person for groups of 10 adults or more) and €5.80 (per person for groups of 10 children/youths or more, 6-19 years).

Rdzeniewski: Festungsgasse 4, 5020 Salzburg, Austria. Tel: +43 662 8410140.

Kapitelplatz (Salzburg, Austria)

Kapitelplatz (Chapter Square)

On our way to Hohensalzburg Fortress, we passed by the small but beautiful Kapitelplatz (Chapter Square). This square, a place of concentrated activity in Salzburg’s old town, is bordered by  Salzburg Cathedral, on the south, by the Cathedral Provostry (Dompropstei) and Archiepiscopal Palace in the east, the Novice’s Wing of St. Peter’s Abbey in the west and the Cathedral Chapter’s mills.

Check out Salzburg Cathedral” and “Hohensalzburg Fortress

The cathedral as seen from the square

The Cathedral district was comprised of austere, sovereign residences lined up on Kapitelgasse, Kaigasse and Chiemseegasse and Chapter Square was once the site of the Cathedral Abbey.  Until the archbishopric was dissolved in 1803, the high clergy once resided on the square and in the palaces in the adjacent streets. Dominated by the cathedral canon, this area was defined by majestic and imposing residences lined up along Kapitelgasse, Kaigasse and Chiemseegasse.

Cheska, Kyle, Grace and Jandy browsing at one of the souvenir stalls inside the square

The constant water supply of the canal for the millstones of St. Peter and the Cathedral, diverted through Mönchsberg to the Kapitelplatz,  still supplies water to St. Peter Bakery and the Chapter Fountain (which dates from the 17th century) on the square.

Grace, Kyle and Cheska with the Chapter Fountain in the background

Slightly secluded from the spacious square, the fountain (or horse flood) was modeled on Roman fountains and built under Archbishop Leopold Freihher von  Firmian  in 1732 to plans by  Franz Anton Danreiter. The winged horse ( Pegasus ) which once stood there is now in the Mirabell Gardens.

Check out “Mirabell Palace and Gardens

Te statue of Neptune

Framed by a marble balustrade, it has a niche architecture built in front of the fountain house. The ramp, used by the horses to access the water, leads straight up to the monumental figure of Neptune (God of the Sea), in a high arched niche carried by double pilasters, holding a trident and crown as well as the mane of the horse with one hand and mounted on a seahorse with a fishtail and with water leaping from its nostrils.

The tritones on the left

The tritones on the right

The two water-spitting and much older (made in 1691) Tritones  came to their present place only later.  The water flows in a wide band, under the seahorse, into the lower-lying pool. The Baroque figure, one of the most stylish in Salzburg, was sculpted by  Josef Anton Pfaffinger.  Above the display bell  is a vase decorated with putti with a  chronogram (” LeopoLDVs prInCeps Me eXtrVXIt “) with Archbishop Firmian’s coat of arms found above the niche.

The chronogram above the niche

Filling the square with life are a number of giant communal chess-boards (where people play a game of chess with oversized chess pieces), plenty of colorful souvenir stalls and the “Sphaera,” a work of art by German artist Stephan Balkenhol.

The Sphaera, designed by German artist Stefan Balkenhol, is part of the “Salzburg art project.” Standing about 9 m. high (including the pedestal), this work of art is better known under the slang term “Balkenhol-Mozartkugel.” This abstract, gold-plated, two-ton ball, with a diameter of 5 m., is made of glass fiber reinforced plastic and lies on a wrought iron frame with a weight of 3.5 tons. On top is a 300 kg., bronze male figure dressed in white shirt and black trousers and emanating a neutral expression.

Kapitelplatz: Salzburg 5020, Austria

Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel (Mondsee, Austria)

Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel

Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel

The last leg of our “Original Sound of Music Tour,” via Panorama Tours, brought us to Mondsee, a quaint and colorful town of lush countryside, shops and restaurants, where we made our final stopover at the Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel situated right smack in the middle of the town center.  We were given an hour to explore the area.

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Maria (Julie Andrews) von Trapp walking down the aisle of St. Michael’s Basilica in the film “Sound of Music.”

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Another movie scene of Maria walking down the aisle. Behind is the Wolfgang Altar

Do you remember Maria (Julie Andrews) and Captain Georg (Christopher Plummer) von Trapp’s wonderfully famous wedding scene at the “Sound of Music?” This is where the wedding in the film took place (though, in real life, they got married at Nonnberg Abbey where Maria was a postulant). The exterior of the church was never shown in the movie, as it was then under renovation.

Maria and Captain von Trapp at the high altar

Maria and Captain Georg von Trapp (Christopher Plummer) at the high altar

The bright and welcoming yellow and white, Late Gothic-style and three-aisled St. Michael’s Basilica, located next door to the monastery building (founded by Bavarian Duke Odilo II in 748, it has been restored and turned into a classy hotel) and courtyards, is the cultural and spiritual heart of the Mondsee region.

View of pipe organ from high altar

View of pipe organ from high altar

The second biggest church in Upper Austria, it is also one of the most prominent and largest monuments in Austria. This former Benedictine abbey church, officially as Pfarrkirche St Michael, was constructed under the direction of Abbot Benedikt Eck and consecrated in 1487.

High Altar designed by Salzburg sculptor Hans Waldburger

High Altar designed by Salzburg sculptor Hans Waldburger

The pink and white ceiling with snowflake-like designs

The pink and white ceiling with snowflake-like designs

In 2005, Pope John Paul II upgraded the church to a minor basilica and, that same year, a huge restoration and renovation of the interior began that included every part of the basilica. During one of the many restorations, the framing on the Gothic vaults have been discovered to have been painted in the original light pink color. It took 3 years to complete and, in 2009, the church was reopened and was conferred  the title “Austria’s Monument of the Year.”

Side Altar (1)

Side Altar (2)

The basilica has two 52-m. high towers and statues of Saints Peter and Paul on the façade. For architecture buffs like me, it is unassuming on the outside but beautiful inside. We entered the basilica through a small lovely gift shop which helps in the upkeep of the basilica. The beautiful Baroque interior, dating back to the 17th century, features Baroque-style altars collaboratively created by Matthais Wichlhammer and the famous Swiss Baroque sculptor Meinrad Guggenbichler, outstanding pieces of work, with lots of black and gold, that are really stunning and nothing short of extravagant.

Poor Souls Altar

Poor Souls Altar

The light and airy interior, exactly the same as it was when the movie was filmed, was even more impressive when we looked at the ornate details up close. The ceiling, with soft almost pink snowflake-like designs on a clean white background, was also beautiful.

Wolfgang Altar

Wolfgang Altar

Seven of these altars were carved by Meinrad Guggenbichler who, from 1680, dedicated much of his life to beautifying the monastery.  Its 18 m. high early Baroque high altar. with the relics of Abbot Konrad II, dates from 1626 and was designed by Salzburg sculptor Hans Waldburger.

Altar Josef

Altar Josef

More altars were then built in the monastery church.  These included the Holy Spirit Altar, the Wolfgang Altar, the Corpus Christi Altar, the Poor Souls Altar, the Sebastian Altar and the St. Peter Altar. Later, other altars were added, this time by Franz Anton Koch. These were the John Altar, the Altar Josef, the Anna or Virgin Altar and Antonius Altar. The altar cross was put together by a Mondsee  sculptor.

Antonius Altar

Antonius Altar

Once up the high altar, we could see the equally beautiful and impressive pipe organ at the opposite end of the basilica. There are also additional artifacts to be viewed at the museum attached to the basilica. The gilded statues and paintings made me wonder where they got the resources for such extravagance.

Altar of Annunciation (1680) by Meinrad Guggenbichler

Altar of Annunciation (1680) by Meinrad Guggenbichler

I am not used to seeing such splendor. One of the most photographed churches all over the world, this cinematically famous basilica is visited by more than 200.000 people each year. Even if you are not a “Sound of Music” movie fan, the elegant and classy St Michael’s Basilica is still worth spending time walking through. 

John Altar

John Altar

Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel: Kirchgasse 1, Mondsee 5310, Austria. Tel: +43 6232 4166. Open daily, 9 AM – 7 PM. Although entrance to the basilica is free, there is a small admission fee for the museum.

The museum

The museum

Gift Shop

Gift Shop

How to Get There: Bus140 from Salzburg runs every 30 minutes and takes approximately 50 minutes (25 kms.) to reach Mondsee.

The Colorful, Sound of Music Town of Mondsee (Austria)

Mondsee

After our short photoop stopover at the Salzburg Lake District, we again boarded our tour bus for the final destination of the Original Sound of Music Tour – the scenic and lovely, Baroque Upper Austrian  lakeside town of Mondsee in the Vöcklabruck district.

Check out “The Original Sound of Music Tour

Peter briefing tour participants upon arrival at Mondsee

Located at the northern banks of Mondsee Lake (one of Austria’s last privately owned lakes), it is named for the lake’s crescent-moon shape. One of the biggest (and the warmest) of the Salzkammergut 76 lakes, Mondsee lake is 11 kms. (6.75 miles) long and 2 kms. (1.25 miles) at its widest.

Cheska at the town square

At the town, our Panorama Tours guide Peter allotted us time to avail of lunch as well as explore the lemon-and-white, twin-spired Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel, the cloister collegiate church of the historic medieval Mondsee Abbey (founded in 748).

The author (left) with the Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel in the background

The interior of the church hosted the wedding of Maria (played by Julie Andrews) and Captain von Trapp (played by Christopher Plummer) in the famous 1965 Austrian-set musical film The Sound of Music.

Grace and Kyle at a fountain beside the church

It has made the town the go-to wedding destination of the region, with 400 weddings taking place throughout the year.

Check out “Minor Basilica of St. Michael the Archangel

Colorful townhouses

Apart from its connection with the movie, charming Mondsee is a riot of gaily painted townhouses, mostly restaurants and stores selling handcrafted wares, bordering its main square and along its streets.

The Rathaus (town hall)

Right outside the church is the city tram stop where trams bring visitors to the lakeside promenade which is lined with several highly rated and elegant restaurants and cafés serving traditional Austrian fare (such as local apple strudel and freshly baked rye bread from a traditional mill) as well as modern cuisine.

Drachenwand (Dragon Wall) MountainA stunning backdrop is formed by the craggy rock face of the impressive Drachenwand (Dragonwall) at the southern shore of the lake.

Schlossbräu Mondsee,

Mondsee is also home to a series of Neolithic pile-dwelling (or stilt house) settlements discovered in 1864 in the lake.  Dating back 5,000 years, they are that are part of the Prehistoric Pile dwellings around the Alps UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Kyle and Jandy

In the warmer months, Mondsee offers stunning scenery and, in December, charming Weihnachts (Christmas) festivities.

Mondsee Tourist Information Office

The town is a 28-km. (21 min.), drive, via the A1, from Salzburg and thanks to its proximity to the city, Mondsee is frequented by visitors every weekend.

Mondsee Town Square

Mondsee Tourist Information Office: Dr.Franz-Müller-Straße 3, 5310 Mondsee, Austria. Tel: +43 6232 2270. Website: salzkammergut.at.

The Original Sound of Music Tour (Salzburg, Austria)

The Original Sound of Music Tour

The next day, after an early breakfast at our hotel, we again walked to Mirabell Gardens where we joined Panorama Tours “The Original Sound of Music Tour” with other tourists on board an airconditioned bus.  The Sound of Music is a movie based on a successful Rogers and Hammerstein Broadway musical that premiered in New York on March 2, 1965.

Our Panorama Tours bus

Panorama Tours started as Kleinbusse am Mirabellplatz which, for three months during the film’s shooting in 1964, provided six Volkswagen vans for director Bob Wise to transport his 250 stars and staff around.  In the 1970s, the company morphed into today’s Panorama Tours, doing two four-hour “Sound of Music” tours a day, every day, all year.

Check out “Mirabell Palace and Gardens

During the 4-hour tour, we were to be shown the most important sights in and around Salzburg where the movie was filmed.  It was the biggest grossing musical of all time, if receipts are adjusted for inflation. Because of its core family values, hummable tunes and stunning scenery, the film turned into a worldwide success.

Our tour guide Peter Nussbaumer

Julie Andrews starred as Maria von Trapp, a real-life ex-nun who married Capt. Von Trapp (Christopher Plummer), an Austrian naval officer, after she became governess to his children. Both musical and film are based on the “The Story of the Trapp Family Singers” written by Maria von Trapp in 1949.

Hohensalzburg Fortress

In Austria, the film ran only for a very short period and was subsequently dropped probably because of instances of Nazi complicity depicted in the film which were certainly too much to bear for the Austria of the 1960s, which was forging a new, democratic future for itself. In 1966, the first American tourists started arriving and were asking about the film settings from bemused locals.

Hohensalzburg Fortress as seen from the movie (www.pinterest.com)

Two dozen locations in Salzburg were featured in the film. At Mirabell Palace and Gardens, most of the “Do-Re-Mi” song was filmed. Throughout the trip, our Australian guide Peter Nussbaumer was very funny and made the tour entertaining.  Along the way, we passed by (but did not stop) at Nonnberg Abbey, Hohensalzburg Fortress and Mozart Bridge (Mozartsteg) where a number of movie scenes were shot.

Check out “Hohensalzburg Fortress

Nonnberg Abbey

At Nonnberg Abbey, they include the opening part where nuns go to mass and Maria returns too late; performance for the song Maria” was staged in the courtyard and the children came to the Abbey’s gate to ask Maria to return to their home.

The Von Trapp children at the abbey gate to ask Maria to return to their home (www.pinterest.com)

The escape scene, with the Nazi cars parked outside the Abbey gate, was also shot in the original spot.

Mozart Bridge (Mozartsteg)

The Mozartsteg, a filigree Art Nouveau iron pedestrian foot bridge over the Salzach River, was built in 1903 by a private group called the Mozartstegverein to connect the Steingasse area to Mozartplatz. It was inaugurated by the Governor of the Duchy of Salzburg and the then Mayor of the city.

Georg Krimml, a wealthy owner of Café Corso, lobbied and donated the funds for its construction to increase customer traffic to his café.  Up until 1920, it was privately owned and you can still see the toll booth (now a tiny coffee shop) on the Mozartplatz side of the bridge. The bridge was used in the sequence, at the beginning of the My Favorite Things montage, where Maria takes the von Trapp children on the picnic in the mountains.  

From Mirabell, a short 4.3 km. (10-min.) drive via Leopoldskronstraße brought us to our first destination – Leopoldskron Palace (Schloss Leopoldskron), a rococo palace and a national historic monument in Leopoldskron-Moos, a southern district of the city. The palace, and its surrounding 7-hectare park, is located on the lake Leopoldskroner Weiher. The grounds, adjacent to those of Schloss Leopoldskron, were one of the main exterior locations and ten outdoor scenes were filmed there portraying the von Trapp home.

Mountain view from the palace

However, the interior of the palace was never used as the Von Trapp villa. Terrace scenes, using a replica of Leopoldskron’s terrace and “horse-gates” that lead to the lake, such as the family drinking pink lemonade (“not too sweet, not too sour, just too… pink!”), Maria and the Captain arguing and the children and Maria falling off the boat into the lake in the famous boating scene, were actually filmed on an adjacent property (known as Bertelsmann, at the time).

Terrace scene at The Sound of Music (www.pinterest.com)

For The Sound of Music, the pathway from the villa to the lake was constructed but was later removed. The statues, as well as the gate, remain.

Liesl at the terrace (www.pinterest.com)

Shots of the building itself, as well as the scene where the Captain watches the children arrive in a boat with Maria, were filmed at Schloss Frohnburg. As the Leopoldskron’s Venetian Room was smaller and too narrow than the ballroom in the film, the decor of the room was meticulously copied and recreated in the 20th Century Fox studios in Los Angeles for the waltz scenes in the ballroom.

The Baroness (Eleanor Parker), Maria Von Trapp (Julie Andrews) and Capt. Von Trapp (Christopher Plummer) at the ballroom

In 1987, the “Sound of Christmas,” a special production starring Julie Andrews, John Denver, and Plácido Domingo was also filmed at the Schloss Leopoldskron. In 2014, the palace, home to Salzburg Global Seminar since 1947, and the neighboring Meierhof building, were opened as a privately owned Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron.

Hellbrunn Palace

From Leopoldskron, a short 4.8 km. (8-min.) drive, via Morzger Str., brought us to Hellbrunn Palace (Schloss Hellbrunn), site of the Sound of Music Pavilion, the glass gazebo setting for the two main love scenes between Liesl (Charmian Carr) and Rolf (Daniel Truhitte), featuring the song Sixteen Going on Seventeen, and the kissing scene (Something Good) of Maria  and Capt. Von Trapp.

The author outside the Sound of Music Pavilion

The scenes were originally situated in the gardens of the Leopoldskron Palace. Only long shots of the Austrian gazebo are seen in the film as the gazebo interiors were shot on a Hollywood sound stage. At the end of the filming, the gazebo was presented as a gift to the city of Salzburg.

Rolf kisses Liesl inside the pavilion (www.pinterest.com)

After their numbers became too big for the business convention center housed there, constant trespassing resulted in it being moved and, in 1991, was reconstructed and shown publicly by the city council in the ornamental gardens of  Hellbrunn.

The tree-lined avenue where Capt. Von Trapp saw his children dangling from trees

Neaby is the tree-lined road leading to the castle where Capt. Von Trapp unknowingly noticed his own children dangling from the branches of the trees, to the horror of their father.

Lake Wolfgang and the town of St. Gilgen in the foreground

After our film-location tour within the Salzburg, we were driven out into the Salzburg Lake District Area (Salzkammergut) at St Gilgen, passing Lake Fuschl and Lake Wolfgang, where panoramic aerial shots and scenes of the picnic were filmed. The Salzkammergut extends over the entire area of lakes belonging to the Alps and Lower Alps and 3 Austrian provinces (Salzburg, Styria and Upper Austria) share this unique countryside. At our photo stop, we had a wonderful view down St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang.

L-R: Kyle, Cheska, Grace and Jandy

Nonnberg Abbey: Nonnberggasse 2, 5020 Salzburg, Austria. Tel: +43 662 841607

Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron: Leopoldskronstraße 56-58, 5020 SalzburgAustria.

Schloss Hellbrunn: Furstenweg 37, 5020 Salzburg.

The Sound of Music Panorama Tour: Hubert-Sattler-Gasse 1, 5020 Salzburg, Austria.  Tel: +43 662 883 211-0 and +43 662 874 029

Makartsteg Bridge (Salzburg, Austria)

Jandy, Cheska and Kyle at Makartsteg Bridge

The Makartsteg Bridge,  the most modern bridge over the Salzach River in the Salzburg city center, is open for pedestrians and cyclists only.  Connecting the new part of the city with the old town (Altstadt), it was named after the 19th century Historicist painter Hans Makart, who was born and raised in Salzburg.  Providing artwork for many of the pompous buildings of the Ringstraße, Makart became famous as a painter of the Viennese Historicism.

The current bridge is is already the third Makartsteg, the first one built in 1905 in Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) and demolished in 1967. The second Makartsteg, famously known as the “swinging bridge” (if you stood still at the center, you could feel it move rather strongly), was crossed by some 20,000 pedestrians on an average day and soon was in bad shape, being demolished once again in 2000.

View of the Salzach River, Hohensalzburg Fortress and the city from the bridge

One year later, the current Makartsteg bridge was opened with a massive festival, with live music along the river banks during a warm June night, fireworks and some 25,000 people cheering at the most elegant Makartbridge the city had seen so far.

Port of the Amadeus tourist boats

On the left side of the bridge is the “port” of the Amadeus tourist boat. Though there’s nothing special about the bridge itself, the panoramic view of the city, the cathedral, Hohensalzburg Fortress, the sunset and the boat traffic from this bridge is good.

Locks attached to the bridge’s chain link fence

However, this is not what the bridge is so famous for as the chain link fence of the bridge is covered in a sea of locks brought there by lovers from all around the world.

The locks at night

Hence, the name “Love Lock Bridge.” Following a popular, century-old tradition, these lovers inscribe their lock with their initials, affix the new love lock to the popular footbridge, snap photographs and then tossing the key into the river, an act symbolizing their unbreakable and eternal love.

Jandy enjoying the night time view of the city from the bridge

This practice is viewed, by many, as a romantic gesture while others consider it a popular form of vandalism as many cities around the world are struggling with what some call litter and vandalism on their most cherished public walkways. In fact, the French did away with the one in Paris completely due to weight issues.

In May 2011, on the basis of a resolution of the City Hall (which declared them to be inconsistent with the regulations in force concerning “posters and similar things”), the first 42 love padlocks were removed. However, it was soon acknowledged that this was a misapprehension and, probably counting on greater profits from tourism , this tradition was allowed to continue.

Manny and Cheska

Locks are purchased in a few of the stores just off of the. Prices reflect being in a highly tourist area. The locks are said to be removed every few years to make room for new ones. However, there is no mention about all of the keys laying on the bottom of the river.

The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show (Austria)

The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show

For our first night in Salzburg, Grace, Manny, Jandy, Cheska, Kyle and I proceeded to Sternbrau Restaurant, at the old heart of the city (next to the famous “Getreidegasse” shopping street), to watch the amazing “Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show,” (Check out video here) a daily show & dinner event with 74 seats available.

Sternbrau Restaurant

The most successful dinner show in Salzburg, it has, for 24 consecutive years, been mesmerizing and entertaining Salzburg visitors from all around the world with its harmonic blending of songs from The Sound of Music movie, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, operettas and other excerpts of Salzburg’s musical past.

Cheska, Kyle and Grace at the entrance of the restaurant

In 1991, three entrepreneurs – Franz Langer (music director), Martin Uitz (former CEO of Salzburg Land Tourism) and Stefan Herzl (CEO of Panorama Tours) – created the Sound of Music Dinner Show (as it was called back then), a dinner concert with live on-stage performance of The Sound of Music compositions combined with an Austrian dinner. It was staged daily, from May till October, in the big hall of the Salzburger Stieglkeller underneath the famous Hohensalzburg Castle.

In 2000, the dinner concert moved, from the Stieglkeller, to the Sternbräu with Franz Langer updating the program, featuring more compositions of W.A. Mozart and Salzburg‘s operettas, and renaming the daily event to “The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show.”  Even a stepdaughter of Maria von Trapp, also called Maria, used to visit the show several times.

In 2014, Roman Forisch took over from Franz Langer (since 1997 sole owner of the show) as new manager and relocated “The Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show” to the Festungssaal (Fortress Hall) on the first floor of the K+K Restaurants am Waagplatz, a historical landmarked building next to the famous Salzburg Cathedral and right in the middle of the historic district of Salzburg.

Festungssaal (Fortress Hall)

The building, one of the oldest sites in Salzburg, was a brewery in the Middle Ages first mentioned in 1542.  Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart liked to come here regularly, especially in 1777. At the beginning of 2013, the building was restored, modernized and, after almost two years, re-opened as a restaurant in 2014.

Soup of the Day

Viennese-style Schnitzel with Noodles

The move to this historical building added a final piece to the cultural tourism highlight, providing the makings of a truly wonderful evening with its ideal combination of a splendid, high class culinary experience and a comfortable and atmospheric  Medieval location.

Roast Pork with Dumpling and Cabbage Salad with Bacon

Before the show, a dinner is served at 7.30 PM (Doors open at 7 PM).  We enjoyed a traditional Viennese 3-course meal, in a candlelit setting, prepared by chef de cuisine Michael Pratter and his team.  It featured a starter (Soup of the Day), a choice of white or red meat (Roast Pork with dumpling and cabbage salad with bacon or Vienna-style Schnitzel with Noodles) and their famous homemade Grandma’s Apple Strudel with Whipped Cream for dessert.

Grandma’s Apple Strudel with Whipped Cream

The one-and-a-half-hour show began at 8.30 PM at a stage with an area of about 10 square meters, right in front of the dinner tables. The “Sound of Salzburg Show” features a group of 4 singers (2 female and 2 male), all trained artists from all over the world, and 1 female pianist.

The four performers and the pianist (at right)

On stage, they performed a program which includes the greatest hits of the aforementioned The Sound of Music musical (Richard Rodgers & Oscar Hammerstein) and  Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart as well as Salzburg‘s operettas.   For the Sound of Music, they performed “The Sound of Music (song),” “Do-Re-Mi,” “Do-Re-Mi (Reprise),” “Do-Re-Mi (Fuge),” “Climb Ev’ry Mountain,” “Maria,” “My Favorite Things,” “Lonely Goatherd,” “Laendler Tanz,” “Edelweiss” and “So Long, Farewell.”

The two lady performers dressed up as nuns

The Mozart repertoire consisted of “Eine Kleine Nachtmusik,” “Ronda Alla Turca,” “Papageno Arie (Zauberflöte),” “Pa-Pa Duett (Zauberflöte),” “Vedrai Carino Arie (Don Giovanni)” and a “Minuet from Don Giovanni.”

Salzburg operettas featured, with live piano accompaniment, were Ralph Benatzky’s “Regenlied (Im weißen Rößl),” “Im Salzkammergut, da kammer gut (Im weißen Rößl)” and “Im weißen Rößl am Wolfgangsee (Im weißen Rößl); Fred Raymond’s “Saison in Salzburg (Saison in Salzburg)” and  Franz Lehar’s “Dein ist mein ganzes Herz (Das Land des Lächelns)” and “Lippen Schweigen (Die lustige Witwe).”  A folk song, Und jetzt gang i ans Petersbruennele, was also featured. 

Cheska dancing with a male performer

The show thus featured 5 different composers who each have their own style and lived in various parts of the musical history.  Thus, the job of the singers (who perform in 15 countries around the world as musical ambassadors for Austria) of the Sound of Salzburg show wasn’t easy as every single song they sang was supposed to be sung in the right way, in the way the composer intended.

They also needed to have a broad understanding of music to perform every one of them, know what the songs were actually about as well as to learn them by heart. In short, they have to live the song.

The real Maria von Trapp

The show also included an 8-minute, really interesting film clip of an interview from the real Maria von Trapp. The video, not the best quality, was from the 1980’s but you can see and hear everything you need to understand the real von Trapp story behind the movie.

Manny, on stage, serenaded by a lady performer

The dinner side of the show was great and the show itself was very entertaining.  The show was in English so we didn’t have to worry about not understanding anything. There were a couple of songs sung in German but we didn’t need to understand German to enjoy the tunes.  The performers also did a little audience participation.  Manny was pulled on stage, seated and serenaded by a lady singer.

Kyle (center) on stage with performers and other members of the audience

The male singers also grabbed a few ladies from the crowd (including my daughter Cheska) and taught them how to dance a traditional Viennese dance. Some kids (including my grandson Kyle) also joined the performers on stage. If you love “The Sound of Music” or simply just love Austrian music and culture, you would have a great night at the “Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show.” I definitely would recommend it. 

Kyle (second from right) with the performers

Sound of Salzburg Dinner Show: Sternbräu Restaurant, Griesgasse 23 5020 Salzburg. Tel: +43 660 5020520 and +43 699 10248666.  E-mail: office@soundofsalzburg.info . Website: www.soundofsalzburg.info. Daily show times (from mid May to mid October): 7 – 10 PM (dinner & show) and 8:30 – 10 PM (show only). Admission: € 39 (adults), € 32 (Salzburg Card & Students), € 20 (children 7-14 years of age) and free for children under the age of 7 (accompanied by an adult). Click here to book tickets online)

Guests can choose between three different 3-course menus (drinks not included) or our deluxe 4-course menu with premier seating (with drinks, the show and a CD). Menu choices for vegetarians and seafood lovers are available on request.  Food and beverages must be paid directly at the restaurant.

Mirabell Palace and Gardens (Salzburg, Austria)

The Grand Parterre of Mirabell Gardens

The Grand Parterre of Mirabell Gardens

After checking in and freshening up at Hotel Garni Evido Salzburg City Center, we all met up at the lobby to begin our exploration of the city, starting with the nearby Mirabell Palace and Gardens, a listed cultural heritage monument and part of the Historic Centre of the City of Salzburg UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the most beautiful Baroque gardens in Europe, it was built along a north-south axis and oriented towards the Hohensalzburg Fortress and the Salzburger Dom cathedral.

View, from Rose Hill, of the Small Parterre, Salzburger Dom and Hohensalzburg Fortress

View, from Rose Hill, of the Small Parterre, Salzburger Dom and Hohensalzburg Fortress

The palace, outside the medieval walls of Salzburg, was built about 1606 according to Italian and French models, at the behest of Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich  von Raitenau as a residence for his mistress Salome Alt. From their union, 15 children were born, 10 of whom survived. When von Raitenau was deposed and arrested in 1612, Salome and her family were expelled. After Wolf Dietrich’s death, the palace was renamed “Mirabell” (from the Italian word mirabilebella meaning “amazing” or “wonderful”) by his successor, Markus Sittich von Hohenems.

Mirabell Palace

Mirabell Palace

Prince-Archbishop Franz Anton von Harrach had Mirabell Palace redesigned, according to plans designed by the famous architect Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt, in a lavish Baroque style from 1721 to 1727, integrating the individual buildings into a self-contained complex. On June 1, 1815 the later King Otto of Greece was born here, while his father, the Wittelsbach crown prince Ludwig I of Bavaria served as stadtholder in the former Electorate of Salzburg.

Rosenhugel (Rose Hill)

Rosenhugel (Rose Hill)

On April 30, 1818, the palace was damaged by the great fire that swept through the city.  A number of frescoes, including those by Johann Michael Rottmayr and Gaetano Fanti, were destroyed by the flames but the masterly grand marble staircase that led into the palace and the marble hall, one of the most precious works of art at Mirabell Palace, survived unscathed.

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From about 1818, Mirabell Palace owes its present unassuming Neoclassical appearance to Peter de Nobile, the court’s architectural consultant and director of the Vienna School of Architecture. The edging of the windows, the capitals and stucco work are details that bear witness to the palace’s former splendor. Charming putti (cherubs) decorate the marble balustrade and the sculptures in the niches, all among the finest products of the European Baroque, are the work of the famous Georg Raphael Donner.

The Rape of Persephone

The Rape of Persephone

Aeneas and Anchises

Aeneas and Anchises

On June 3, 1944 Gretl Braun, the sister of Eva Braun (later to marry Adolf Hitler), married SS-Gruppenführer Hermann Fegelein, Reichsführer-SS Heinrich Himmler‘s liaison officer on Hitler’s staff, at the Mirabell Palace, with Hitler, Himmler and Martin Bormann as witnesses. Eva made all the wedding arrangements.

Rape of Helen by Paris

Rape of Helen by Paris

Today, Mirabell Palace houses the offices of Salzburg’s mayor and the municipal council (its rooms are not open to the public). The Marble Hall, considered to be one of the most beautiful wedding halls in the world, was formerly the prince-archbishops’ ballroom and a concert venue for Leopold Mozart and his children Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Maria Anna “Nannerl” Mozart.  Meetings, awards ceremonies and romantic concerts (Salzburg Palace Concerts) are regularly held here. Mirabell Palace is also a popular location for weddings.

The author at the Grand Panterre

The author at the Grand Panterre

Grace at the Grand Parterre Fountain

Grace at the Grand Parterre Fountain

The famous, geometrically-arranged Mirabell Gardens was redesigned, under Prince-Archbishop Johann Ernst Graf von Thun, in 1689 based on plans by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, and completely remodeled around 1730 by Franz Anton Danreiter. Noted for its boxwood layouts, it has mythology-themed statues dating from 1730.

Grace and Jandy

Grace and Jandy

The “Grand Parterre,” the oldest part of the Mirabell Gardens that is still preserved, is embraced by a marble railing decorated with vases by Fischer von Erlach.

Vase by Fischer von Erlach

Vase by Fischer von Erlach

In the heart of the garden is a large fountain, with four statue groups sculpted by Italian sculptor Ottavio Mosto from 1690 around it – “The Rape of Prosperina,” “The Rape of Helena by Paris,” “Aeneas and Anchises,” and “Hercules and Antaeus,”  symbolizing the 4 elements (fire, air, earth and water).

Statues of Roman gods and godesses

Statues of Roman gods and goddesses

On the balustrades are statues of Roman gods and goddesses (Ceres, Pomona. Venus, Vesta, Juno and Chronos, Bacchus, Jupiter, Mars, Hercules, Vulcan, Hermes and Apollo) made by B. van Opstal in 1689.

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The Heckentheater (Hedge Theater), a hedge maze located in the main part of the Mirabell Gardens, was created between 1704 and 1718 and is one of the oldest hedge theaters north of the Alps.  The Heckentheater is still used for performances in the summer, including concerts of the Salzburg Festival.

The Von Trapp children at the Hedge Theater

The Von Trapp children at the Hedge Theater

The Zwergerlgarten (Dwarf Garden) features a number of misshapen creatures, made of white Untersberg marble, dating back to the time of Archbishop Franz Anton Harrach.  In 1854, the gardens were opened to the public by Emperor Franz Joseph I.

Kyle and Cheska at the Small Panterre

Kyle and Cheska at the Small Panterre

The “Small Parterre,” the part of the Mirabell Gardens just along the backside of the Mirabell Palace, is directly attached to the Grand Parterre.  At its core is the Pegasus Fountain with a copper statue of Pegasus made in 1661 by Kaspar Gras from Innsbruck for the well on the Kapitelplatz near the Salzburger Dom cathedral.

Pegasus Fountain

Pegasus Fountain

There it stayed until 1690. After that time, it was used for the well on the Mirabellplatz Square until the great fire of 1818, and finally transferred to its current location in 1913. From Rosenhügel ( “Rose Hill”), we had a beautiful view all over the Small Parterre towards Salzburger Dom and Hohensalzburg Fortress.

Maria and the Von Trapp children at the Small Panterre

Maria and the Von Trapp children at the Small Panterre

Several scenes from the 1965 movie The Sound of Music were recorded here. Maria (Julie Andrews) and the von Trapp children (Charmian Carr as Liesl, Nicholas Hammond as Friedrich,  Heather Menzies as Louisa,  Duane Chase as Kurt,  Angela Cartwright as Brigitta,  Debbie Turner as Marta and Kym Karath as Gretl) sing ‘Do-Re-Mi‘ while dancing around the Pegasus Fountain and using the steps as a musical scale.

Fraulein Maria and the children at the Grand Parterre Fountain

Fraulein Maria and the children at the Grand Parterre Fountain

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Mirabell Palace and Gardens: Mirabellplatz 4, 5020 Salzburg, Austria. Tel: +43 662 80720. Open Mondays, Wednesdays and Thurdays, 8 AM – 4 PM; Tuesdays and Fridays, 1 – 4 PM.   No visit in case of special occasions.  The Mirabell Gardens are  open daily from approximately 6 AM to dusk.  Admission is free. The Hedge Theater and Dwarf Garden are closed during the winter.   The Orangerie is open all year round, 9 AM – 4 PM.