Majestic Mayon Volcano (Albay)

The Cagsawa Ruins and cloud-shrouded Mayon

Our Roll-On Roll Off (RORO) ferry from Allen (Northern Samar) finally arrived at Matnog (Sorsogon) by 12:15 PM and as soon as the ferry ramp was down, Charlie and I were soon on our way to Naga City (Camarines Sur), hoping to make it there by evening.  At Legaspi City, we had a late lunch at Waway Restaurant along Penaranda St., famous for its Bicolano fare such as laing, Bicol Express and chicharon bulaklak. This done, it was back to our Ford Explorer but, just out of the city, we just could resist making a stopover at the Cagsawa Ruins in nearby Daraga town, with its panoramic backdrop of Mayon Volcano, one of the Bicol Region’s 2 great landmarks (the other is Naga City’s Penafrancia Shrine, home of the Virgin of Penafrancia).

The swirling clouds around Mayon Volcano

Though we can not see its cloud-shrouded perfect cone, the view wasn’t quite disappointing as the swirling clouds covering the volcano halfway up the cone were a spectacle in itself.   Most pictures of Mayon Volcano (including ours) are taken with the Cagsawa Ruins in the foreground.  Many people doing so within the ruins do not know that they are standing on a mass grave.   

Ruin’s of priest’s house

During that dreadful morning (8 AM) of February 1, 1814, the volcano erupted, forming giant cauliflower-shaped gray clouds and spewing red-hot boulders and a river of boiling lava  from the volcano’s crater. It became dangerous for people living around the volcano to stay at home as the huge, hot rocks fell on their roofs and spread fires.   About 1,200 people fled their homes for the seeming safety of the church.  Here, they were buried alive when 40 m. of mud and ash engulfed them.  By 10 AM, the large stones had stop falling, raining sand instead, and by 1:30 PM, the skies began to clear and only clouds of smoke and ash spewed out of the volcano.  Mayon’s short-lived, 6-hr. eruption was over but so were the lives of the people trapped in the church.  

Today, only the blackened top section of the church steeple and some walls of the priests’ house and the municipal building remain.  Stores within the area are now doing brisk business selling souvenirs (T-shirts, postcards and actual photos of the latest eruption) and foodstuff (pili nuts, etc.).  Only the ruins and a historical marker installed in 1940 tell the story of that dreadful day nearly 2 centuries ago.

Arrival atAllen (Northern Samar)

After an early morning breakfast and checkout at Eduardo’s Tourist Inn, Charlie and I again boarded our Ford Explorer and promptly departed Calabayog City for Allen by 6 AM.  We were done with GPS mapping and were now homeward bound.  The 71-km. drive, over intermittently pockmarked concrete roads of the Maharlika Highway, for  Allen took just a little over 1.5 hrs., passing the Northern Samar towns of San Isidro and Victoria.

The passenger ferry terminal

Allen is an important port town for inter-island transport, connecting Samar Island with Luzon, over the San Bernardino Strait, at Matnog (Sorsogon).  Former called Minapa-a and La Granja, it was renamed, during the American period, after Gen. Robert Allen, the American military governor of the Visayas.

A RO-RO ferry being loaded

When we arrived, there were many cargo trucks and inter-island buses from the Visayas and Mindanao already being loaded inside RO-RO (Roll On Roll Off) ferry.  A number of relatively low priced hotels and inns are located near the port, ready to serve transiting passengers who want to stay overnight, especially those who are stranded because of high waves in the San Bernardino Strait.  Our ferry, with our Ford Explorer now loaded, left Allen port by 10:30 PM.

Catbalogan and Calbayog City (Western Samar)

Early in the morning, Charlie and I checked out of our rooms at Leyte Park Hotel and departed Tacloban City for Calabayog City to continue our GPS mapping for EZ Maps.  As always, the 9.5-km. long road from Tacloban all the way to the foot of San Juanico Bridge was excellent.  Past the bridge, we were now on Samar Island and the road here, though concreted, was intermittently pockmarked with potholes, preventing us from really speeding up, especially at the curves.

Aerial view of the town from the municipal hall

After a 4-hr./97-km. drive, with Charlie on the wheel of the Ford Explorer, we made it to the provincial capital of Catbalogan by 9:30 AM.  It was already drizzling when we arrived. At the municipal hall, we visited the Town Planning Division and had a late breakfast at Orange Julius.

The town plaza
The Provincial Capitol Building

Leaving Catbalogan, we next continued on our way to Calbayog City, again experiencing the same road conditions as before.  However, it was a shorter 60-km. drive.  It was already raining heavily when we arrived at Calbayog City.  Here, we visited the City Planning and Tourism Office and had a late lunch at Bread n Mix.   We did GPS mapping of the city before checking in our tired bodies at airconditioned rooms with bath at Eduardo’s Tourist Inn.

Handumanan Building
Calbayog City Hall