Uplistsikhe Cave Complex (Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

We were already through with the first day of our 3-day GNTA-sponsored tour of the Georgia countryside, our last destination being the Stalin State Museum in Gori. We still had a lot of daylight left, so we decided to continue on to the ancient, rock-hewn and now abandoned town of Uplistsikhe (literally meaning “the lord’s fortress”), located in Shida Kartli, a suburb just 14 kms. (a 20-min. drive) east of Gori.

Uplistsikhe Cave Complex

Uplistsikhe is remarkable for the unique combination of various styles from rock-cut cultures of the region, most notably from Cappadocia in Anatolia (now modern Turkey) and Northern Iran, and the co-existence of pagan and Christian architecture. Built on the high rocky sandstone massif along the left bank of the Mtkvari River, the area was identified by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia, containing various structures dating from its founding in the Late Bronze Age (around 1,000 BC) to the Late Middle Ages (13^th century AD). Its natural sandstone rock easily lent itself to various kinds of treatment, making it possible to create complex decorative compositions.

The Mtkvari River

Strategically located in the heartland of ancient kingdom of Kartli (or Iberia as it was known to the Classical authors), the town’s age and importance as a major political and religious center of the country (between the 6^th century BC and the 11^th century AD) led medieval Georgian written tradition to ascribe its foundation to the mythical Uplos, son of Mtskhetos, and grandson of Kartlos.

The tourist complex

Early in the 4th century, with the Christianization of Kartli, Uplistsikhe seems to have declined in its importance, losing its position to Mtskheta and, later, to Tbilisi, new centers of Christian culture. During the Muslim conquest of Tbilisi in the 8th and 9th century, Uplistsikhe reemerged as a principal Georgian stronghold, becoming the residence of the kings of Kartli, during which the town grew to a size of around 20,000 people and evolved into an important caravan trading post along the Silk Road. However, a Mongol raid in 1240 destroyed large parts of the town, marking the ultimate eclipse of the town. It was virtually abandoned and, only occasionally, in times of foreign intrusions, used as a temporary shelter.

The start of our hike

The approximately 4-hectare Uplistsikhe complex, tentatively divided into 3 parts, consists of a south (lower), middle (the largest) and north (upper) part. The middle part, containing the bulk of Uplistsikhe’s rock-cut structures, is connected to the southern part via a narrow rock-cut pass and a tunnel. Narrow alleys and, sometimes, staircases radiate from the central “street” to the different structures.

The Theateron (Theater)

The ornate ceiling carved with octagonal Roman-style designs

Most of the caves are devoid of any decorations. However, some of the larger structures have coffered, tunnel-vaulted ceilings, with stone carved in imitation of logs, as well as niches, which may have been used for ceremonial purposes, in the back or sides. Archaeological excavations in the area since 1957 (when only the tops of a few caves were visible) have uncovered numerous artifacts from different periods, many of which are in the safekeeping of the National Museum in Tbilisi. Most of the unearthed artifacts include gold, silver and bronze jewelry, plus samples of ceramics and sculptures.

Sopho and Pancho performing “Romeo and Juliet” at the Theateron

The earthquake in 1920 completely destroyed several parts of the most vulnerable areas and the stability of the monument remains under substantial threat, prompting the Fund of Cultural Heritage of Georgia, a joint project of the World Bank and Government of Georgia, to launch a limited program of conservation in 2000. Since 2007, the Uplistsikhe cave complex has been on the tentative list for inclusion into the UNESCO World Heritage program. Originally, the city had about 700 caves but, today, only 150 remain.

Round pits thought to have been used for corn storage or for sacrificial purposes

We all arrived at Uplistsikhe at around 4 PM, paid the entrance fee and started our 2-hour exploration of the 40,000 sq. m. Shida Qalaqi (“Inner City”), which is less than half of the original whole, by hiking about 5 m. up the rocks (opposite the toilets and cafe at the entrance), then following the rock-cut path to the left. Steps, with metal railings, lead us up through what was the main gate. To the right, sitting under a corrugated roof, is the excavated main tower of the Shida Qalaqi’s defensive walls.

Tadpole-shaped pits that may have been ovens for baking bread

We observed many round pits dug in rock, thought to have been used for corn storage or for sacrificial purposes, while tadpole-shaped pits may have been ovens used for baking bread. Scattered throughout the city are narrow circular holes, of different depths, cut in the ground to hold several prisoners.

Inspecting a wine cellar

We also noticed a wine cellar, a pool for water storage and a wine press where grapes are crushed, allowing the juice to run down a chute into another container. During the hike, we made short stops in between to admire the beautiful view of the river and the whole surroundings.

A wine press

Ahead of us, overlooking the Mtkvari River, is the Theateron (Theater), probably a temple from the 1^st or 2^nd century AD where religious mystery plays may have been performed. This cave has a pointed arch, carved in the rock above it, and an ornate, tunnel-vaulted ceiling carved with octagonal Roman-style designs resembling three-dimensional plaster work. Behind the stage are dressing rooms.

The Temple of Makvliani

Returning towards the main gate, we turned left to wind your way up the main street. Down to the right is the large pre-Christian Temple of Makvliani. With an inner recess behind an arched portico, the open hall in front has stone seats for priests.

Tamaris Darbazi (Hall of Queen Tamar)

A little further up, on the left, is the big hall known as Tamaris Darbazi (Hall of Queen Tamar), almost certainly a pagan temple (though Georgia’s great Christian Queen Tamar may have used it later). Behind two columns cut from the rock is a stone seat dating from antiquity. The hall has loggias on three sides. The ribbed stone ceiling, cut to look like wooden beams, has a hole to let smoke out and light in. An open area, to its left, has stone niches along one side, thought to have once been a pharmacy or dovecote. To the right of Tamaris Darbazi is a large cave building, probably a pagan sun temple used for animal sacrifices and, later, converted into a 3-naved Christian basilica.

The 3-naved Christian basilica

Near the summit of the hill is the Uplistsulis Eklesia (Prince’s Church), a picturesque triple-church Christian basilica built with stone and brick in the 9th -10th centuries over what was probably Upliistsikhe’s most important pagan temple. Inside the simple interior are some candlelit icons but no frescoes (they have been whitewashed).

Uplistsulis Eklesia (Prince’s Church)

Outside, we again had breathtaking views of the river and the Caucasus Mountains. On our way back, we entered a dark, 40 m. long tunnel with a long flight of metal stairs, behind a reconstructed wall beside the old main gate, running down to the Mtkvari River, an emergency escape route that could also have been used for carrying water up to the city.

The simple church interior

Our visit to this lovely place with an interesting history was unique in that we really had full access to the whole site (elsewhere most of this would all be fenced off) so we really got the feel of this city literally cut into the mountainside by soaking up its history and rustic charm. Well off the beaten track, but definitely worth a visit. The memory of this lovely ancient cave city would linger in my mind long after I have gone home.

Exiting down the 40 m. long tunnel

Uplistsikhe: Shida Kartli, Gori, Georgia. Open 11 AM – 6 PM. Admission: 3 GEL.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

Stalin State Museum (Gori, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — 1 Comment ↓

After lunch, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, plus our Georgian guide Sopho Makashvili, proceeded on our GNTA-sponsored tour of Stalin State Museum located within Gori town proper. This museum, officially dedicated to the life of Soviet Union leader Joseph Stalin (who was born Iosef Dzhugashvili in Gori on December 18, 1878), was begun in 1951, ostensibly as a local history museum but was clearly intended to become a memorial to Stalin, who died on March 5, 1953. It defiantly opened in 1957, the year after Nikita Khruschev’s secret speech denouncing Stalin.

The large, ornate Exposition Building

The Expostion Building’s tower

In 1989, with the downfall of the Soviet Union and independence movement of Georgia, the museum was “closed,” post-perestroika. However, school groups were still being shown around and, now, it has abandoned all pretense of being closed and has since been reopened. Now a popular tourist attraction, it has retained, until recent years, its Soviet-era characteristics and it now highlights the Soviet-era Stalin personality cult. The museum has 3 sections, all located in the town’s central square.

The Exposition Building’s collonade

We first dropped by the main corpus of the complex, the Exposition Building with a tower at one end. This large, ornate palazzo, one of the biggest buildings in town, was built in the Stalinist Gothic style. While waiting for our guide at the lobby of this rather typical Soviet-era house museum, we checked out the gift shop.

The museum Gift Shop

Some of the “souvenirs” on sale include key chains, mugs, lighters, wine flasks, mini busts and Stalin red wine but the vast majority seemed too kitschy to purchase. After a short wait, we finally met up with our English-speaking guide – the svelte, friendly and polite Natia Jolbordi.

The grand, W-shaped stairway with Stalin’s statue on the landing

The museum tours starts at the second floor of the building which may be reached only by a grand, W-shaped stairway (there are no elevators) whose landing has a life-size statue of Stalin. This complex of exhibits is divided into six halls, all well laid out in roughly chronological order and most dedicated to Stalin’s role in the big patriotic war and his victory over Nazism and fascism.

Our guide Natia Jolbordi

About 70% of the exhibits are photos (mostly reproductions) of various events, pictures from Dzugashvili’s life and of leaders and important events of the Soviet Union. The display also includes artifacts related to Stalin in different periods in his life, illustrations, paintings and newspaper articles headlining his achievements. Many of the items on display have written English descriptions but most, however, are described in Georgian and Russian and that’s why it is so important to have an English-speaking guide.

A display hall

Private things of Stalin’s mother

Our museum guide, Natia went through the very well presented information in a very knowledgeable manner and, after she had finished, was on hand to answer our questions. I was particularly interested in Stalin’s personal life: childhood, his early days when he was in school and the information about his own family and children.

Photos of a young Stalin (lower left) and his contemporaries

I was very enlightened by the story of his eldest son Yakov (from his first wife Ekaterina Svanidze) whom he lost on April 14, 1943 at Sachsenhausen concentration camp, (Oranienburg, Germany) during World War II. I also found the early “revolutionary” years of Stalin especially interesting. Natia told us everything down to the minute detail. She was great.

Consul Buddy Cunanan posing a question to Natia

We also had the opportunity to see display cases containing a couple of Stalin’s famous pipes, private things of Ekaterina Jugashvili (Stalin’s mother), medals awarded to him and gifts (carpets with the face of Stalin, needlepoints, a tobacco-leave mosaic, a hammer and sickle desk lamp, etc.) from various other nations and made to him over the years during his reign.

Display cases with gifts to Stalin

Our journey ended in a darkened room with one of 12 copies of the death mask of Stalin on view, taken shortly after his death and presented in a red velvet ring as if it were a holy relic.

Stalin’s death mask (photos: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

We now all left the main building and moved out, into the sunlight, towards a Greco-Italianate-style pavilion where, enshrined within, is a small wooden duplex hut where Stalin was born and spent his first four years. Stalin’s father Vissarion Jughashvili, a local shoemaker, rented the one room on the left hand side of the building and maintained a workshop in the basement. We all took a peek inside to see its sparse furnishings.

The Greco-Italianate-style pavilion housing Stalin’s boyhood home

Stalin’s boyhood home

The home’s sparse furnishings (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Finally, we moved on to check out Stalin’s personal green, Art Nouveau Pullman railway carriage, parked to one side of the Exposition Building. The former Tsar Nicolas II’s train, it was used by Stalin, from 1941 onwards, for his travel to Allied conferences in Tehran (Iran, November 28 – December 1, 1943), Yalta (Crimea, February 4 – 11, 1945) and Potsdam (Germany, July 17 – August 2, 1945). In 1985, upon being recovered from the railway yards at Rostov-on-Don, it was sent to the museum.

Stalin’s private railway carriage

Weighing 83 tons and armor-plated (a demonstration of Stalin’s acute sense of security), Stalin’s Air Force One still had surprising luxury (for that era) as he kept all the trappings of grandeur of his former enemy. The carriage had Stalin’s bedroom, his toilet, rooms for his aides, a kitchen and a conference room at its end.

Checking out Stalin's conference area (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Buddy, Pancho and the author checking out Stalin’s conference room (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Stalin is Georgia’s most famous though controversial son and, in a culture which reveres strong personalities, that counts for a lot in this small country. The Stalin State Museum, a time warp from Soviet Union times, was truly worth a visit.

Portrait of a sitting Stalin

Stalin State Museum: 32 Stalin Ave., Gori, Georgia. Tel: 995 270 7 52 15. Open daily except public holidays, 10 AM – 5 PM. Admission: 10 GEL per pax plus an additional 5 GEL per pax if you want to visit Stalin’s train wagon.

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug

After making our way down the hill from Jvari Monastery, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I, with Georgian guide Sopho, proceeded on our GNTA-sponsored tour to Mtskheta town center, making a long stopover at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles, known as the burial site of Jesus Christ’s mantle. The biggest ecclesiastical construction in medieval Georgia, it is also the second largest church in Georgia (after the Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral in Tblisi). In Georgian sveti means “pillar” and tskhoveli means “life-giving” or “living.”

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

According to legend, St. Elias (or Elioz), a Georgian Jew from Mtskheta, brought Jesus Christ’s mantle to Georgia from Jerusalem, buying Jesus’ robe from a Roman soldier at the crucifixion site in Golgotha. His sister Sidonia touched the mantle and was so overcome by it that she immediately died in a passion of faith. Nobody was able to take away the mantle from her grasp and she was buried with it. Later, an enormous cedar tree later grew from Sidonia’s grave but people forgot the exact grave site.

In the 4th century, King Mirian decided to build the first church at Mtskheta and St. Nino ordered the cedar tree chopped down to build it. From the cedar tree she had seven columns made for the church foundations. However, the seventh column, designed to stand in its center, had magical properties and could not be raised from the ground as it rose by itself into the air. After an all-night prayer vigil by St Nino, the column miraculously moved of its own accord and returned to earth to the burial site of Sidonia and the robe. The seventh column subsequently worked many miracles.

The entrance gate

The cathedral is also the coronation and burial (10 are known to have been buried here, although only 6 tombs have been found, all before the altar) site of the kings of Georgia. The Svetitskhoveli complex includes the cathedral, the fragments of the palace and gates of the Catholicos Melchizedek I, all built in the 11^th century; and the 18^th century gates of Erekle II (Heraclius II) To enter, Sopho, Melissa and Riva had to cover their heads and wear a skirt. There were wrap-around skirts in a box near the door that could be worn over their trousers.

Sopho, Riva and Melissa in their wrap-around skirts

The cathedral, originally built as a wooden church during the reign of King Mirian III of Kartli (Iberia) in the 4th century, was replaced by a big 3-nave basilica built in the 480s by King Vakhtang Gorgasali. It has been damaged several times, notably by the invasions of Arabs (in the Abul Qasim raid, the church was used as a stable for camels), Seljuk Turks under Sultan Alp Arslan, the Persians under Shah Abbas I and Timur (also called Timurlaine) and, later, during the Russian subjugation and the Soviet period. The domed cathedral, an “inscribed cross” type of church, has a layout of an elongated rectangle and an ornamented facade with decorative arcading which unites the separate components of the structure.

Eastern facade

The present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral was rebuilt, from 1010 to 1029 (during the reign of King Giorgi I), by the architect Arsakidze, at the invitation of the Catholicos Melkisedek I of Georgia. Its cross-dome style of church architecture emerged in Georgia in the early Middle Ages and became the principle style after the political unification of Georgia by Bagrat III (978-1014). The church structure was intended to ensure good acoustics. Its dome, placed across all 4 sides of church was, over the centuries, reconstructed several times. It is supported by 4 lofty columns and contains 16 windows.

Sun emblem joined with a grave vine

Severely damaged by Timur (also called Timurlaine), it was rebuilt from 1413 to 1440 by King Aleksandre the Great who restored the western side of the cathedral and the collapsed cupola. In the 1837, on the occasion of a scheduled visit to Mskheta by Tsar Nicholas II (although in the end the tsar never came), more serious alterations took place when the richly ornamented galleries, narthexes, apses and subsidiary chapels on the north and south, from different periods, were ruthlessly swept away.

Painting of figures of the Zodiac

The interior, originally painted with frescoes, were whitewashed over and, only recently, after much careful restoration, some few remnants of the original paintings, including fragments of a 13th-century Beast of the Apocalypse and figures of the Zodiac, have been revealed again. The base of the basilica, built in the late 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, after St. Nino’s original church, was found during the restoration of 1970-71 (presided over by V. Tsintsadze).

Exploring the cathedral’s defensive wall

The cathedral’s defensive wall, built in 1787 with stone and brick during the reign of King Erekle II (Heraclius), has a top storey, designed for military purposes, with gun emplacements. From the wall, the entrance to the cathedral is located to the south. Of the wall’s 8 towers: 6 are cylindrical and 2 are square. In 1963, archaeological expeditions, at the southern part of the wall, found the house of the 11th century atriarch. Within the church yard, the remains of the 2-storey castle of Patriarch Anton II were found.

One of 6 cylindrical towers along the defensive wall

Sandy yellow stone, with trimmings, was used for the cathedral’s construction, red stone around the apse window and green stone in the drum of the cupola (dating from the 17th century). The curved blind arcading, from the 11th century, is unaltered throughout.

Large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist

A large window occupies most of the church’s western top side. An original sculpture on the wall, showing a sitting Christ with two angels at his side, though restored several times (most recently in the 19th century), has not survived. A relief sculpture, on the external northern wall, shows the symbol of the stonemason (a right arm and hand holding a chisel).

The cathedral altar’s iconostasis (wall of icons and religious paintings)

The walls are decorated with many Christian Orthodox icons, the majority of which date to the 20th century while some are copies of older icons and frescoes from other churches throughout Georgia. Most of the originals are in the national museums of Georgia. At the altar is a large figure of Jesus painted in the 19th century by a Russian artist. As in many Georgian churches, stonework here feature carved grapes, a reflection of the country’s ancient wine-making tradition.

Bull’s head at the eastern facade

Two bulls’ heads, from the 5th-century church, were incorporated into the east façade, a testimony of the folk influence on Christian iconography in that early period. On the right side, from the entrance of the cathedral, is a stone baptismal font, dating from the 4th century, thought to have been used for the baptism of King Mirian and Queen Nana. Immediately behind it, on the north façade, is a reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel.

A reproduction of the relief of Arsukidze’s right hand and bevel

Built into the cathedral, on the south side, is a small stone and square cupola chapel built between the end of the 13th and the beginning the 14th centuries. A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, it was built at the site to mark Svetitskhoveli as the second most sacred place (thanks to Christ’s robe) in the world (after the church of Jerusalem).

A symbolic replica of the Chapel of Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem

In front of the chapel is the most westerly structure, aligned with the columns between the aisle and the nave that marks Sidonia’s grave. Remains of the original life-giving pillar are found preserved inside a tower supported by columns near the dome inside the cathedral. Built in the 17th century, scenes of the lives of King Mirian and Queen Nana, plus portraits of the first Christian Byzantine Emperor, Constantine I, and his mother Helena, were painted by G. Gulzhavarashvili. Traces of the 4th-century church’s foundations have also been found here.

Burial place of Sidona

The second structure, aligned with the columns of the southern aisle, was also built in the 17th century as the throne of Catholicos Diasamidze (it no longer serves this function, as current tradition requires a throne for the Georgian patriarch to be in the center of the church).

The throne of Catholicos Diasamidze

The tombs of king buried here include that of King Vakhtang Gorgasali (identified by his the small candle fortress standing before it), King Erekle II (identifiable by the sword and shield upon it) and, next to him, is marble tomb of his son George XII, the last king of Georgia. In front of the altar are the tombs of David VI, George VIII, Luarsab I as well as those of various members of the Bagrationi royal family, including Tamar, the first wife of George XI, whose epitaph, dating from 1684, is written both in Georgian (Asomtavruli) and Arabic script. Also buried here are Patriarchs Melkisedec I and Domenti II.

Tomb of Prince Konstantin Bagration-Mukhransky

Svetitshoveli Cathedral impressed me by its immensity and it is very magnificent, both inside and out. Of all the Georgian churches I saw, this was my favorite. It has a distinct air of history to it, being a silent witness to history of Christian Georgia for 17 centuries. Directly opposite the entrance is a tourist information office and (nominal fee). At the cathedral grounds are shops, souvenir stalls, cafes, cobblestone roads, granite sidewalks, parking lot and houses with red tile roofs.

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral: Narekvavi-Mtskheta-Railway Station, Arsukidze, Mtskheta, Georgia. Open daily, 8 AM – 10 PM.

How to Get There: Mtskheta is located about 20 kms. from Tbilisi. Mini buses run regularly every day of the week between Tbilisi’s Didube market and the main street in Mtskheta.

The cathedral grounds with the tourist information office on the right

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website:www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Jvari Monastery (Mtskheta, Georgia)

Posted on 29 November, 2014 by Benjie Layug — Leave a reply

It was the first day of our Georgian Countryside Tour, sponsored by the Georgian National Tourism Administration and, after breakfast, Buddy, Pancho, Melissa, Riva and I proceeded to Meidan Square where we met up with our affable Georgian guide – Ms. Sopho Makashvili. GNTA also provided us with a white Mercedes-Benz Sprinter panel van and a driver.

The Jvari Monastery complex (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Our first destination was to be Jvari Monastery in the town of Mtskheta, just a 22 min. (20.6-km.) drive up north via the Tbilisi-Senaki-Leselidze Highway. Even from the main road, the church was already visible from afar as it is perched on top of a hill (the highest in the town) with splendid hues of orange, yellow, red and green. With its 1:7 size proportions, Jvari Monastery also looked like a head on the shoulders of the rock it was built on. We drove up almost to the monastery where there’s a small lot where cars can park for free.

Jvari Monastery seen from afar (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

According to traditional accounts, in the early 4^th century, a large wooden cross, symbolizing the fall of paganism and rise of Christianity in Georgia, was erected over a pagan temple by Saint Nino, a female evangelist credited with converting King Mirian III of Iberia to Christianity. Pilgrims from all over the Caucasus were drawn to the cross after it was reportedly able to work miracles. In 545, just north of the cross, a cruciform church, known as the Small Church of Jvari, was built. Between 586 and 605, the larger and present”Great Church of Jvari” was constructed directly above the site of the wooden cross by Erismtavari Stepanoz I, the Presiding Prince of Kartli (Iberia).

The Church of the Holy Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

During the Soviet period, the church was preserved as a National Monument, but access to it was very difficult due to tight security at a nearby military base. After the independence of Georgia in 1991, the building was restored to active religious use in 1996. In 2004, the monastery, together with other monuments of Mtskheta, were placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, by the World Monuments Fund, as part of the “Historical Monuments of Mtskheta” and, in 2009, was added to the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger.

The ruins of the Small Church of Jvari (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Entrance to the monastery is free of charge. The monastery complex is rather small and it was once fortified as remnants of a stone wall and a gate, built in the late Middle Ages, still survive to this day. From a viewpoint, we were rewarded with stunning views of of Mtskheta (the old capital of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia), with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in its very heart; the Saguramos mountains and the amassing confluence of the the Aragvi and the Mtkvari (Kura) Rivers.

View of Mtskheta, the Saguramos Mountains and the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

This picturesque view of these two rivers, “that are mixed like two sisters,” was described by the Russian classic poet Mikhail Yuryevich Lermontov (October 3, 1814 – July 27, 1841) in his poem “Mtsyri.” They say that when it is not very rainy, you can see clearly that both rivers have water of different colors: blue and dark blue.

The southern facade (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The Church of the Holy Cross, a domed tetraconch, is an early example of a “four-apsed church with four niches,” a church design found in the architecture of Georgia, Armenia and Caucasian Albania. Often referred to as a “Hripsime-type plan” (after its best known example, the church of St. Hripsime in Armenia), this church had a great impact on the further development of Georgian architecture, serving as a model for many other churches. Three-quarter cylindrical niches, between the 4 apses, are open to the central space and 3 rows of squinches affect the transition from the square central bay to the base of the dome’s drum. The ruins of the Small Church of Jvari are still visible beside the church.

Bas-relief of the Ascension of the Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The church is also the first Georgian church where reliefs take a significant place in the décor of its external facades which is decorated with varied and exceptional bas-relief sculptures with Hellenistic and Sasanian influences, some of which are accompanied by explanatory inscriptions in Georgian Asomtavruli script. The fine proportions and remarkable technique of these relief sculptures distinguishes it from the sculptures from earlier bas-relief carving common in the region.

Bas relief of Adarnase I of Iberia (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The entrance tympanum, on the southern façade, is adorned with a relief of the Glorification of the Cross and also shows an Ascension of Christ. On the facet of the drum of the dome is a figure of an unidentified person, possibly the architect. An inscription on the eastern facade mentions the principal builders of the church as Stephanos (patricius), his brother Demetre (hypatos) and son Adarnase (hypatos). Over the centuries, its stone blocks have been degraded, suffering damage from acidic rain, wind erosion and inadequate maintenance which all play a part in deteriorating the monastery.

Replica of the cross of St. Nino (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Before we entered the church, the women had to cover their heads with scarves and a second one to wrap around the waist as a skirt (there were scarves available for visitors to quickly borrow). However, it seems that it is not very strictly enforced. We were also allowed to take photos inside the church but we avoided using our camera’s flash.

Sopho, Pancho and Consul Buddy inside the Church of the Holy Cross (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The rather rough and simple interior didn’t have any impressive frescoes or richly decorated altar, just the usual gorgeous icons (including one of St. Nino) and a huge, carved wooden cross (a replica of the original cross of St Nino) on its original octagonal base, but its simplicity suggested some peace and quiet. The inner height also made the church look very spacious. The high windows at the top of the church allows light to come through and cascade across.

The author lighting a candle

On our way down the hill, we passed the monument of Russian poet Mikhail Lermontov on the right side and made a short stopover at the Tree of Wishes. A Georgian tradition, The pilgrims come there to fasten cloth ribbons or small pieces of canvas over its branches, with the hopes that their wishes will be granted.

Icon of St. George slaying the dragon

The place, with its unique history, tranquility and unforgettable views, was truly fabulous. Though not large or ornate, the lovely Church of the Holy Cross is very attractive in a strong, simple way and an iconic site in the history of Georgian Orthodox Christianity. Many couples get married here.

The Tree of Wishes (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

This travel blog, a diary of the author’s local and international travels, aims to provide the reader with news and information on people, places and events that would interest the avid traveler and tourist. But, it also aims to be much more, providing insights on the wonders of this beautiful country, as well as the world, beyond the strict confines of the city. Have a BLAST seeing old churches, exotic temples, educational museums as well as palm-fringed islands; white sand beaches; thundering waterfalls; placid lakes; fiery sunsets; turquoise seas; cathedral-like caves; swirling rivers; majestic mountains; stupendous, amphitheater-like rice terraces; awesome volcanoes and the like. Get to know the movers and shakers in the tourism industry; find out where to titillate the palate; rejuvenate your body; feed your adrenalin, unwind and relax; satisfy your craving for history and culture; and find out what's being celebrated and where.

BENJAMIN “BENJIE” LAYUG, an architect by profession (he finished his B. S. Architecture degree from the University of the Philippines Diliman in 1982), is an avid reader, traveler and free-lance travel writer in his spare time, contributing articles to Travel Update, Philippine Daily Inquirer, COLORS, TODAY, 7107 Islands Magazine, Business Day, Bluprint and the Business Mirror.

He is also the author of the following travel books:

A Philippine Odyssey (New Day Publishers, 2005)
Pathfinder’s Travel Guide: Boracay (Great Books Trading, 2006)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Churches (New Day Publishers, 2007)
A Tourist to Notable Philippine Historical Landmarks, Monuments and Shrines (New Day Publishers, 2010)
A Tourist Guide to Notable Philippine Museums (New Day Publishers, 2012)

Some of his books now appear in the local library shelves of the National Library of the Philippines, De La Salle University, Ateneo de Manila University, University of Sto. Tomas, U.P. Diliman, Centro Escolar University, San Sebastian College, Miriam College, Silliman University, to name a few, as well as internationally at the National Library of Australia and the University of California Berkeley Library.

Now a senior citizen, he is probably one of the oldest, if not the oldest, active travel blogger in the country today. He also has a lifestyle blog called F.Y.I.:Firing Your Imagination (www.firingyourimagination.blogspot.com). Benjie has traveled to two-thirds (53) of the country’s 81 provinces and over 20 countries in 4 continents.