Category Archives: Churches

Church of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel (Malilipot, Albay)

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Church of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel

Church of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel

The town’s church was first built in 1789 by Fr. Simeon Vasquez. The present church was started in 1851 and completed in 1877.The church grounds have a good view of Mayon Volcano.

The Baroque-style, 2-level facade

The Baroque-style, 2-level facade

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Its 2-level Baroque façade has a semicircular, recessed arched main entrance, in varying widths, flanked, on each side, by 3 pilasters (the center one taller and wider than the other two), all mounted on pedestals. These, in turn, are flanked by semicircular arched windows.

A trio of columns

A trio of columns

The main entrance

The main entrance with recessed arches in varying widths

The second level has a semicircular arched niche with a statue of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel (below which is stamped the year “1877”) flanked, on both sides, by a pilaster and a semicircular arched window.  All throughout the façade are decorative scrollwork while the statued niche has a fleur de lis keystone.  The triangular pediment has a centrally located oculus.

Niche with statue of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel

Niche with statue of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel

Detail of decorative scrollwork

Detail of decorative scrollwork

The whole façade is flanked by two 4-storey, hexagonal bell towers topped by domes. The two levels are separated by an entablature with a frieze of decorative, alternating diamond and floral patterns which continues around the bell towers.

The modern church interior

The modern church interior

The bell tower with Mt. Mayon on its left

The bell tower with Mt. Mayon on its left

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Church: Poblacion, 4510 Malilipot, Albay.  Tel: (052) 325 8965 and 558-2379.

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Poblacion, 4510 Malilipot, Albay. Tel.: (052) 820-7950

Church of St. Joachim and St. Anne (Malinao, Albay)

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The Church of St. Joachim and St. Anne was built by Franciscan Fr. Francisco de Sta. Ana in 1619, destroyed by lahar triggered by a typhoon during the 1766 Mayon Volcano eruption and later rebuilt.

Church of St. Joachim and St. Anne

Church of St. Joachim and St. Anne

Author’s notes:

This church’s simple Romanesque façade has semicircular arch main entrance (above which is a rose window) flanked by rectangular windows and superpositioned coupled columns on pedestals that extend to the second level.  At the ends of the facade are single superpositioned columns topped by pinnacles. On the church’s right is the four-storey bell tower.

The church facade

The church facade

The bell tower

The 4-storey bell tower

Its triangular pediment above the second level features a remarkable relief sculpture of St. Anne holding baby Mary, riding a cow and chasing off pirates.  St. Anne is credited with saving Malinao from a pirate attack.

Bas relief at the triangular pediment

Bas relief at the triangular pediment

The church's modern interior

The church’s modern interior

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Poblacion, 4512 Malinao, Albay. Tel.: (052) 488-4550

How to Get There: Malinao is located 545 kms. from Manila, 5 kms. from Tabaco City and 32 kms. northeast of Legaspi City.

Church of St. Lawrence the Martyr (Tiwi, Albay)

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Church of St. Lawrence the Martyr

Church of St. Lawrence the Martyr

Tiwi’s present church, built in 1829, replaced the town’s original church which was built in 1776,  by Franciscan Fr. Pedro de Brosas at the mouth of a site called Tuytoy (“bridge”) Swamps.  The church was burned by Moro pirates and later abandoned due to its vulnerability to typhoon-induced tidal waves.

The centrally located, square bell tower and triangular pediment

The centrally located, square bell tower and triangular pediment

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church’s dark, simple but charming façade is dominated by a centrally located, square bell tower, and it’s gently protruding, semicircular arched main entrance, flanked by coupled columns, is topped by a triangular pediment with a centrally located oculus.

Superpositioned coupled columns with pinnacles

Superpositioned coupled columns with pinnacles

Flanking the main entrance are two statued niches and another set of coupled columns capped by pointed pinnacles.  The first level is separated from the triangular pediment by an entablature.

The modern church interior

The modern church interior

Church of St. Lawrence the Martyr: San Lorenzo St., Sitio Basag, Brgy. Tigbi, 4513 Tiwi, Albay.  Tel: (052) 488 5107. Feast of St. Lawrence the Martyr: August 10.

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Poblacion, 4513 Tiwi, Albay.  Tel.: (052) 435-4866.

Sinimbahan Ruins (Tiwi, Albay)

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Along the road opposite the town’s market, our media group made a stopover at the Sinimbahan Ruins, the roofless remains of Tiwi town’s original church which was built, in 1776,  by Franciscan Fr. Pedro de Brosas at the mouth of a site called Tuytoy (“bridge”) Swamps,    The church was burned by Moro pirates in 1846 and later abandoned due to its vulnerability to typhoon-induced tidal waves.

Sinimbahan Ruins

Sinimbahan Ruins

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

All that remains of this single-nave church are the crumbling volcanic stone walls, and the buttresses that support it, and the equally sorry-looking bell tower on the church’s left. The walls are heavily overgrown with foliage and enveloped by roots of banyan (locally called balete) trees which cling to the cracks and crevices of the walls, making the ruins look charming but, actually slowly destroying it.

A child lounging by a church window

A child lounging by a church window

Three remaining church buttresses

Three remaining church buttresses

The interior walls once had a glass-encased, embedded niche which contained human bones but the glass and the bones have long disappeared. The niche seems to have been used as a grilling oven.  Other walls, probably that of the adjoining convent, now form part of a pottery factory.

Remains of the bell tower

Remains of the bell tower

An attempt has been made to reuse it as a chapel, evidenced by the presence of a lava boulder altar and an image of the Blessed Virgin hanging on the wall but, probably when there are no services being held (or probably abandoned altogether), the interior is used for other purposes.

The lava rock altar

The lava rock altar

During our visit, a tricycle and an owner-type jeep were parked inside and a badminton net and a basketball backboard were also installed for recreation.  There were no church pews or other furniture save for two loungers beside the shade-giving walls.

A balete tree slowly making the walls crumble

A balete tree slowly making the walls crumble

The niche that once contained human bones

The niche that once contained human bones

The ruins is listed as a “tourist attraction” in the town but, from the looks of it, neglect, indifference and the corrosive effects of rain and wind will finish what tidal waves failed to totally destroy.  I truly hope that plans for its restoration, similar to that done to the Bancurro Ruins in Naujan (Oriental Mindoro), are in the works.

Part of the church walls used by the pottery factory

Part of the church walls used by the pottery factory

A jeep and tricycle parked inside

A jeep and tricycle parked inside

Sinimbahan Ruins: Brgy. Baybay, 4513 Tiwi, Albay

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Poblacion, 4513 Tiwi, Albay.  Tel.: (052) 435-4866.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist (Tabaco City, Albay)

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First built by Franciscan Fr. Pedro de Alcareso in 1616, the present structure, built by secular clergy, was completed in a period of 16 years (1864-1879).  The stately Baroque-style church was declared as a National Landmark on August 1, 1973 by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 260 and amended by Presidential Decree No. 1505 on June 11, 1978.

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

The church was also one of the only two declared sites in Bicol Region that were categorized by the National Museum of the Philippines as a National Cultural Treasure of the country. Its marker was unveiled on June 22, 2012.

4-storey bell tower

4-storey bell tower

Column pinnacle

Column pinnacle

The church, built with dark volcanic soil and stones found in the area, has an unusual floor plan with inexplicable compartments and walls with stones bearing mason marks, rarely seen in the Philippines.  The beautiful bell tower, embedded with Rococo designs, has rocaille elements and a beautiful and unique tower clock.

The cathedral interior

The cathedral interior

City Mayor’s Office: Poblacion, Tabaco City 4511, Albay. Tel.: (052) 487-5200

How to Get There: Tabaco City is located 558 kms. from Manila and 21 kms. (a 45-minute drive) northeast of Legaspi City.

Church of St. John the Baptist (Camalig, Albay)

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First built, with wood and nipa, by Franciscan friars from 1579 to 1580, the second church, together with the “escuela Catolica,” was built with stone in 1605.  This church was destroyed during the 1814 eruption of Mayon Volcano and was rebuilt with solid blocks of volcanic stones from Mayon Volcano, in 1837, by Fr. Francisco Latoba  and Fr. Manuel Brihuega.

Church of St. John the Baptist

Church of St. John the Baptist

In 1845, Fr. Miguel Barcela built the church façade, the escuela Catolica and the bell tower.  The church was finished in 1848. On November 1987, the church was damaged by super typhoon Sisang, (international name: Nina) losing its roof, ceiling and beams, but was subsequently repaired.

The church facade

The church facade

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church’s first level has a semicircular arched main entrance flanked by superpositioned columns and niches with statues of St. Clare of Assisi and St. Peter the Baptist (San Pedro Bautista).  The second level has rectangular windows of equal sizes. The triangular pediment, above it, has a centrally located niche with a statue of St. John the Baptist, above which is a small oculus.  It is flanked by superpositioned columns and separated from the second level by an entablature.

Plaque installed by the National Historical Commission

Plaque installed by the National Historical Commission

The 4-storey, hexagonal bell tower, on the church’s left, has massive bells and a fine view of Mayon Volcano.  During World War II, it served as a lookout for American troops searching for Japanese stragglers hiding in hillside caves.

The 4-storey, hexagonal bell tower

The 4-storey, hexagonal bell tower

Inside the church is a ceiling painted with some images, chandeliers and burial niches, including a memorial stone honoring a resident who died at the age of 115 years (1797 to 1912).  Its adjacent convent houses a small museum which displays some of the 2,000-year old bones, beadwork, potsherds and other artifacts found from Calabidong Cave.

The church interior

The church interior

Mayor’s Office: Municipal Hall, Poblacion, Camalig, 4502, Albay. Tel.: (052) 484-1965

Municipal Tourism, Culture and Arts Office: Camalig Tourism  and Pasalubong Center, Brgy. 2, Camalig, Albay.  Mobile number: (0927) 621-3315.  E-mail: camalig_tourism@yahoo.com.

Provincial Tourism and Cultural Affairs Office (PTCAO): Albay Tourism Bldg., Albay Astrodome Complex, Capt. F. Aquende Drive, 4500 Legaspi City, Albay.  Tel: (052) 481-0250 and (052) 742-0242. E-mail: albaytourism@yahoo.com and albaytourism@gmail.com.

How to Get There: Camalig is located 539 kms. from Manila and 14 kms. northwest of Legaspi City.

Church of St. Francis Xavier (Nasugbu, Batangas)

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Nasugbu’s Church of St. Francis Xavier is a relatively new edifice as much of its construction happened only during the 1990’s.  The Nasugbu parish, once under the jurisdiction of the Parish of the Immaculate Conception in Balayan, underwent a sad and dark turn of events in the past.  Its first chapel, as well as a convent for the parish priest, was built in Brgy. Looc.

Church of St. Francis Xavier

Church of St. Francis Xavier

Later, the town transferred to its present location. In 1852, a church was dedicated to the Nuestra Seňora Virgen de le Escalera and St. Francis Xavier. In 1896, after the people of Nasugbu rose against the Spanish colonial regime, Spanish troops locked up almost 500 men, women and children inside the church and then set the church on fire.

The 4-storey bell tower

The 4-storey bell tower

Another simple, wooden parish church was built on its present site. Eventually, the town’s growing population necessitated the construction of the much larger, present church which was started in the early 1990’s. During the Centennial Celebration of the Archdiocese of Lipa, the church was declared as a Pilgrimage Church.

Antique bell

Antique bell

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

The church has a Romanesque-style façade with a portico over the driveway supported by fluted columns with Corinthian capitals, on top of which is an entablature and a triangular pediment. The façade’s second level, also topped by a triangular pediment, has a large, centrally located rose window flanked by two smaller circular windows.

In front of the main entrance is the church’s antique bell, forged in Spain and bearing the king’s royal seal. 

The church's interior

The church’s interior

The interior has a magnificent barrel vaulted ceiling painted in the trompe-l’œil style. The main altar, above which is a dome, features expensive hardwood carvings.  It has an antique, larger-than-life restored crucifix. The Immaculate Conception is enthroned on the Gospel side while that of St. Joseph, the patron of Batangas, is placed on the Epistle side. Underneath an antique carving of the Most Blessed Holy Trinity is an image of St. Francis Xavier surmounting the top arch.  The central focus of the magnificent altar is the Tabernacle of the Most Holy Sacrament. Beneath the altar of the church is an ossuarium.

Choir loft

Choir loft

The octagonal, 4-storey bell tower, on the church’s right, is topped by a cupola.  It can be reached by 200 steps in 3 spiral stairways and two wooden ladders. On November 21, 2006, a whole set of 18 carillon bells (the biggest weighed 320 kilos while the smallest weighed 55 kilos) from Paccard-Fonderie de Cloches of Annecy in France, costing PhP4.4 million, were installed at the tower.

Main altar

Main altar

The carillon plays in two musical scales of 18 bells, three are swinging big bells (moving to and fro and making sounds in each movement) and 15 are fixed (do not move and are struck by clappers outside), each producing a distinct tone set by its manufacturer in France. Thus, 18 bells mean 18 notes.

Trompe l'oeil ceiling

Trompe l’oeil ceiling

Church of St. Francis Xavier: J.P. Laurel St., Nasugbu, Batangas. Tel: (043) 931 – 5186.

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer (Dupax del Sur, Nueva Vizcaya)

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After covering the Kalanguya Festival, Roel, Alex and I boarded our van for the 2-hour trip to the town of Dupax del Sur where we dropped by its Church of St. Vincent Ferrer,  one of the oldest and biggest churches in North Luzon and the best-preserved church complex in Nueva Vizcaya. Here, we met up with parish priest Fr. Ferdinand E. Lopez.

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer – a National Cultural Treasure

Declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines in July 2001, this 18th-century  church,  under the advocation of Saint Vincent Ferrer (though its original titular patron was  the Nuestra Señora del Socorro), is under the jurisdiction of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Bayombong.

The 4-level, rectangular brick bell tower

The 4-level, rectangular brick bell tower

Made of brick, lime, coral or river rock and wood plastered over with stucco, the church covers an area of 7,200 sq. m. and its architectural design is similar to that of St. Peter Cathedral in Tuguegarao City, only less in ornamentation and lower in height with no spiral columns and pilasters to offer support to the structure.

The semicircular arched main portal, embellished with clay insets

The semicircular arched main portal, embellished with clay insets

The present structure (an earlier church structure of modest design might have been erected before 1773), built by Dominican Fr. Manuel Corripio, OP with brick in 1776, mimics the silhouette of the earlier Tuguegarao Cathedral and is reflected on the churches of Bayombong and Bambang. During its construction, Fr. Corripio had two kilns made near the church complex, one for firing bricks and the other for preparing lime.

Window framed by embossed carvings

Window framed by embossed carvings

The Baroque-style façade, divided by cornices into horizontal segments of plastered brick,  features a semicircular arched main portal, embellished with clay insets (representing symbols of the Dominican Order), and a main doorway flanked on both sides by two blind windows with an embossed image of the Holy Eucharist, all  at the first level.  The second level features a niche and two windows framed by embossed carvings.

Blind window with an embossed image of the Holy Eucharist

Blind window with an embossed image of the Holy Eucharist

The entire triangular pediment, divided into two horizontal sections, is capped by undulating cornices and 7 finials, with the central finial crowned with a cross.  The lower half is pierced by a deeply-recessed oculus  while the upper part features a small relief of a cross.

The triangular pediment

The triangular pediment

To the right of the façade is the unplastered, 4-level, rectangular bell tower whose base features a niche with the statue of St. Vincent Ferrer, similar to that found on the second level of the façade.  The tower’s second level features long, narrow windows framed with bracket columns. It is capped with a decorative parapet and a small cupola surmounted by a cross.

Niche with the statue of St. Vincent Ferrer at the bell tower

Niche with the statue of St. Vincent Ferrer at the bell tower

Long, narrow windows framed with bracket columns

Long, narrow windows framed with bracket columns

Each level bears inscription of the years when it must have been completed. We climbed all the way to the top of the tower via a very narrow, dark and steep stairway.  Two of the four bells were cast in 1858 and 1888. Up on the tower, we had a panoramic view of the whole town and the mountains of the Sierra Madre.

View of the town and mountains from the bell tower

View of the town and mountains from the bell tower

Inside the church are two, white-washed narthex pillars, supporting the choir loft, embellished with finely-carved stucco reliefs of cherubs, shells, florals and arabesques. Similar motifs can also be found on the baptistery. The original main retablo (altar backdrop) and pulpit are still intact but the heads of the statues in the retablo are believed to be just reproductions of the ivory ones stolen over the course of the church’s history.

The church interior

The church interior

White-washed narthex pillars embellished with finely-carved stucco reliefs

White-washed narthex pillars embellished with finely-carved stucco reliefs

The 2-storey church convent, connected to the church, still retains slits on the outer walls for archers to defend against attacks and target marauders. The church plaza is enclosed by a low perimeter wall and a replica of an earlier atrial cross.

The similarly ornate carvings in the baptistery

The similarly ornate carvings in the baptistery

Church of St. Vincent Ferrer: Aritao-Quirino Rd., Brgy. Dopaj, Dupax del Sur, 3707, Nueva Vizcaya.  Tel: (078) 808 1016.

The church pulpit

The church pulpit

How To Get There: Dupax del Norte is located 248.26 kms. from Manila and 26 kms. south of Bayombong.

Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral (Tbilisi, Georgia)

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The highlight of my walking tour of Tblisi, with Filipina expat Ruby Bebita, was my visit to the very majestic Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral, a ready-made photo op also known as the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi.  The main cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church, it is the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world.

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

The author at Tsiminda Sameba Cathedral

The cathedral, in the historic neighborhood of Avlabari in Old Tbilisi, was erected on Elia (St. Elijah) Hill, which rises above the left bank of the Kura River (Mtkvari). Getting there involved a steep, uphill climb.

Ruby sitting at the steps leading to the cathedral

Ruby sitting at the steps leading to the cathedral

Though it has some Byzantine undertones, it was built in the traditional Georgian tetrahedron style of architecture, a synthesis of traditional styles which, at various stages in history, have dominated Classic Georgian church architecture.   The Sameba complex consists of the main cathedral church, a free-standing bell tower, the Patriarch’s residence, a monastery, a clerical seminary, theological academy, several workshops, places for rest, etc.

The cathedral grounds with the bell tower on the right

The cathedral grounds with the bell tower on the right

A winning design of Architect Archil Mindiashvili, the main cathedral’s construction was mostly sponsored by anonymous donations from several businessmen as well as common citizens. The foundation of the new cathedral was laid on November 23, 1995.  Nine years later, on November 23, 2004 (St. George’s Day), in a ceremony attended by leaders of other religious and confessional communities in Georgia as well as by political leaders, the cathedral was consecrated by Ilia II, the Catholicos Patriarch of Georgia, as well as high-ranking representatives of fellow Orthodox churches of the world.

The cathedral interior

The cathedral interior

The breathtaking cathedral’s exaggerated vertical emphasis is regarded as an eyesore by many but venerated by as many others.  The cathedral has a cruciform plan.  Its golden dome, over a crossing, rests on 8 columns and is surmounted by a 7.5 m. high, gold covered cross.  The dome’s parameters, independent from the apses, imparts a more monumental look to the dome, and the cathedral in general.

The cathedral's dome

The cathedral’s dome

This cathedral consists of 9 chapels (the chapels of the Archangels, John the Baptist, Saint Nino, Saint George, Saint Nicholas, the Twelve Apostles, and All Saints); 5 of which are situated in a large, underground compartment. The cathedral, measuring 56 m. by 44 m., has an overall area (including its large narthex) of  5,000 sq.  m., a volume of 137 cu. m. and an interior area of 2,380 sq. m. (it can accommodate 15,000 people). Its height, from ground level to the top of the cross, is 105,5 m.. The 13 m. high underground chapel occupies 35,550 cu. m..

The model of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem

The model of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem

Natural materials were used for its construction. Marble tiles were utilized for the floor and the altar was decorated with mosaic. Its murals were executed by a group of artists guided by Amiran Goglidze.  Though still without frescoes, many of the icons that adorn the walls are stunningly beautiful and the doors are carved with very beautiful images of the saints. There’s also a model of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem. Its free-standing, adjacent bell tower is also as grand as the cathedral itself. The well kept and tidy grounds are adorned with beautiful, well-manicured lawns, grass and colorful varieties of flowers

One of the cathedral's nine chapels

One of the cathedral’s nine chapels

Though it lacks the charm of the traditional and historical churches, this lovely, really big and new cathedral is still grand in its modesty and spiritual.   Seen from almost every view point in Tbilisi, it was built by sacrifice and determination.  Truly, it deserves more than a visit. As it sits high up atop a hill, it also has a fantastic view of the city and is also beautiful to behold at night when it is bathed with state-of-the-art spotlights.  The cathedral is especially packed with worshipers on Saturday nights, Sunday mornings and feast days.

How To Get There: The neighborhood is served by the Avlabari Metro Station.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.

The Monastery of St. Nino at Bodbe (Sighnaghi, Georgia)

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Just 2 kms. from the town of Sighnaghi, we made another stopover at the Monastery of St. Nino at Bobde, one of the major pilgrimage sites in Georgia as it is the burial place of the revered St. Nino. A 4th-century female evangelist of Georgians, she is credited with the conversion of the ancient East Georgian Kingdom of Iberia (and Armenia by some accounts) to the Orthodox Christian faith.  She withdrew to the Bodbe Gorge, in Kakheti, and died there around 338-340 AD.  At the behest of Iberian King Mirian III (reign: 284-361 AD), a small monastery was built at the place where St. Nino was buried.

The monastery church

The monastery church

The monastery gate

The monastery gate

During the late Middle Ages, the monastery gained particular prominence when it was favored by the kings of Kakheti who chose it as the place of their coronation. In 1615, the Bodbe monastery was pillaged by troops of Shah Abbas I of Persia but was restored by King Teimuraz I of Kakheti (reign: 1605-1648). With the revival of monastic life in Bodbe, a theological school was opened  and the monastery also operated one of the largest depositories of religious books in Georgia and was home to several religious writers and scribes.

The well-kept garden with cypress trees

The well-kept garden with cypress trees

Under Metropolitan John Maqashvili, Bodbe monastery continued to flourish even after the annexation of Georgia by the Russian Empire (1801), enjoying the patronage of Tsar Alexander I of Russia. In 1823, the monastery was repaired and adorned with murals. However, upon John’s death in 1837, the Russian Orthodox exarchate, active in Georgia since 1810, abolished the convent and converted it into a parish church.  The monastery went into disrepair in the following decades but, in the 1860s, Archimandrite Macarius (Batatashvili) began to restore the monastery and established a chanting school.

The cobble stone walkway

The cobble stone walkway

In the 1880s, Mikhail Sabinin refurbished the chapel housing St. Nino’s relics. In 1889, Tsar Alexander III of Russia visited Bodbe and decreed to open a nunnery there. The resurrected convent operated a school where needlework and painting was taught but, in 1924, the Soviet government closed down the monastery and converted it into a hospital. In 1991, after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the Bodbe monastery was resumed as a convent. Between 1990 and 2000, restoration works were carried out.  In 2003, restoration was resumed when part of the 17th-century wall surrounding the basilica was demolished and the earlier, original one restored.

The church entrance

The church entrance

Today, the monastery, nestled among tall cypress trees on a steep hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley, is very well set up to the handle the thousands of visitors it receives each year. Just outside the gates is a complex with amenities such as parking, a restaurant run by the nuns, and clean restrooms.

The bell tower (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The bell tower (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Once inside the gate, we were welcomed by lovely, well-kept and peaceful gardens and orchards. I instantly felt relaxed as we walked its smooth stone walkways surrounded by its peaceful beauty.  In spite of our arrival, the nuns we saw still went about their daily business and devotions. The first structure that greets you is the free-standing, 3-storey bell-tower which was erected between 1862 and 1885.

A grave beside a side entrance

A grave beside a side entrance

Adjacent to the tower is the extant church, a 3-nave aisled basilica with 3 protruding apses.  Originally built between the 9th and 11th centuries, it had been significantly modified and restored, especially in the 17th and 19th centuries when both exterior and interior walls were plastered. Integrated within the basilica is a small hall church with an apse built over St. Nino’s grave.  Photography wasn’t allowed inside and strict dress code is observed. The church is richly decorated with frescoes and there are a few impressive icons in it. The tomb of St. Nino is covered with a marble memorial.

The Gift Shop (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The Gift Shop (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Items on sale at the Gift Shop (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

Items on sale at the Gift Shop (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

At the back of the church is a viewpoint with a spectacular view of the Alazani Valley beneath us and, as it was a fine, clear day, the snow-clad  Greater Caucasus mountains beyond. Quite enchanting.  We also visited the nice gift shop which has religious and cultural items (icons, prayer ropes, books, local Georgian crafts, postcards, candles, trinkets, etc.) on sale.  Here, I bought a beautiful watercolor painting of St. Nino (not an iconic painting but a modern painting) as well as one of Emperor Constantine and St. Helena together. I left these with Buddy, who had it blessed inside the basilica, together with those he bought.

The author at the view point (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

The author at the view point (photo: Ms. Riva Galveztan)

I noticed a sign pointing us to the direction of St. Nino’s Spring which is some 3 kms. from the convent. To get there, we would have to hike steeply down some 600 odd steps (with occasional landings with benches) that wind its way through pleasant woodland.  Too bad we didn’t have time to do so. In the 1990s, the small Chapel of St. Zabulon and St. Sosana was constructed to house the spring, which is believed to have magical curative properties.  According to a local legend, the spring emerged through Nino’s prayers.

The Greater Caucasus Mountains

The snow-clad Greater Caucasus Mountains

I truly appreciated our visit to this very tranquil and restful place, probably the most dramatic monastery in the country. With its divine atmosphere, it is certainly worth a long stopover.

The monastery's orchards

The monastery’s orchards

Georgia National Tourism Administration: 4, Sanapiro St, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia. Tel: +995 32 43 69 99. E-mail: info@gnta.ge. Website: www.georgia.travel; www.gnta.ge.

Qatar Airways has daily flights from Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (Clark, Pampanga) to Tbilisi (Republic of Georgia) with stopovers at Hamad International Airport (Doha, Qatar, 15 hrs.) and Heydar Aliyev International Airport (Baku, Azerbaijan, 1 hr.). Website: www.qatarairways.com.