Category Archives: PHILIPPINE PROVINCES

On Our Way to Coron (Palawan)

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The DOT-accredited Club Paradise Resort, on the idyllic Dimakya Island, a beautiful 19-hectare rock island paradise on the northwest coast of Busuanga Island in Palawan, offered a low, 4-day vacation package of PhP11,500 per person, inclusive of airfare, accommodations, food and complimentary use of some of its facilities, and I, together with my youngest sister Tellie and my 69-year old mother Carol decided to avail of this.  This would be our first visit to Palawan.  We left Manila early in the morning of February 23, on a 80-min. Pacific Air flight to Busuanga, and arrived a little past 10 AM at Busuanga’s Yulo King Ranch (YKR) Airport.

Landing at Yulo King Ranch Airport

At the airport, we transferred to a passenger jeepney for a 30-min. leisurely drive, along a dirt road, to a mangrove forest.  Here, we made a 15-min. walk, along a 300-m. long wooden boardwalk lined with mangrove trees.  At the end of the boardwalk was a pier where a motorized outrigger boat awaited us to take us to the island.  The boat trip took all of 45 mins. and we reached the resort at just about noon.

Boat ride to the resort

Day Tour of Puerto Galera (Mindoro Oriental)

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The next day, we were again off, to another excursion, this time to Puerto Galera itself.  We again took a jeepney from the town proper and, once outside the city, the others, including me, again went up the jeepney’s luggage rack.  However, we had to always be on the lookout for approaching trees, ducking to avoid being thrown off the roof.  About 15 kms. out, we again passed the previously visited Tamaraw Falls.  The road to Puerto Galera zigzags most of the way and the scenery – thick forests, mountains planted with rows of calamansi trees, deep ravines – made for a thrilling and scenic ride. 

We first dropped off at Muelle Pier where RO-RO (Roll On Roll Off) ships and motorized outrigger boats from Batangas City dock.

White Beach

At the town, we had the choice of at least 13 superb connected beaches that have been developed for tourism within 7 kms. or so of the town. About 6 kms. from the poblacion, we dropped off at the broad 1-km. long White Beach which is immensely popular with tourists.  The water, however, gets very deep a few meters from the shore.

Trick photography along Tamaraw Beach

From White Beach, we hiked to the less developed Tamaraw Beach where many go for seclusion or peace and quiet.  Again, we had this beach to ourselves.  From Tamaraw Beach, we retraced our way back to White Beach where we boarded a jeepney back to Calapan.  Back at home, Rainy, Lulu, Liezl and Erwin boarded the 6:30 PM boat back to Batangas City.  Jandy, Ronnie and I stayed behind for another night, leaving the next day on the 10 AM boat.  We arrived in Batangas City by 12:45, and boarded a Manila-bound bus.  We arrived in Manila by 4:30 PM.

Pulong Laki (Calapan, Mindoro Oriental)

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The next day, All Saints Day, Jing again packed us some lunch (including beer) for our excursion to Pulong Laki (Big Island), one of the 3 Baco Islets, the others being Pulong Munti (Little Island) and Pulong Gitna (Middle Island).  All have white sand beaches.  We espied these beautiful islands during the ferry crossing from Batangas City to Calapan.  Ronnie also brought along his fishing rod.

On our way

Jing also chartered a boat very early in the morning for our use as, if there are no charters, their owners usually leave early in the morning to catch fish for a living.  From Ronnie’s home, we walked towards the nearby beach where our motorized outrigger boat and the boatmen where waiting for us.  Once on board, we were soon on our way.  The trip was smooth, usual for the morning and, after about an hour, we made landfall on the island.

The island’s coarse sand beach

The island had a broad, coarse sand beach, with vegetation and shade some distance away.  This didn’t matter much to us as we savored our first dip in a Mindoro Oriental beach.  From the beach, we also had a panoramic view of a couple of islands.  We were the only excursionists on the island that day.  I guess that most Calapenos were visiting their dead while most local and foreign tourists were in Puerto Galera.  We had this beach to ourselves.  

Doing some trick photography

Ronnie went fishing  and sunbathing while the rest went swimming or shell hunting.  Ronnie caught a couple of small fish that day which he cooked.  By mid afternoon, we all left the island, upon the boatman’s suggestion,  to avoid the high, late afternoon waves.  Back on the mainland, we again had supper at the house of Ronnie and Jing’s aunt.    

Tamaraw Falls (Puerto Galera, Mindoro Oriental)

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Come morning, after breakfast, we packed up our swimming gear as well as a picnic lunch as we were headed for the Tamaraw Falls, the largest waterfall in the province and a popular swimming spot for weekenders.  The falls, located 131 m. above sea level, is a 15-km. drive from Calapan. We took tricycles to the Calapan town proper where we all boarded a jeepney bound for the resort town of Puerto Galera.

Tamaraw Falls
Once outside the city proper, the others went up the jeepney’s luggage rack to better enjoy the view and the air.  The narrow road towards Puerto Galera alternated from sometimes paved to mostly rough.   After about an hour, we espied the falls along the road and alighted beside the aptly named Waterfall Bridge, just a couple of meters from the falls.  At this distance, we could feel the mist of water from the falls as we posed by the bridge.
 
The waterfall’s natural pool
It being the eve of All Saints Day, we were expecting a lot of tourists at the falls but it seems we were the only visitors.  Passing jeepneys sometimes stop for their passengers to take pictures but, after a few minutes, continue on their way.  Just below the waterfall is a shallow natural pool, fed by waters coming from the forested ravine above.
 
Our cool  dip
There were some picnic tables and a changing room across the road from the waterfall and below it are 2 man-made pools fed by the waters of the falls.  Its waters were equally shallow as the wooden barrier which dammed up the water was removed.
 
The man-made pool
We quickly changed into our bathing attire and first tried the natural pool below the falls.  Later, we transferred to the man-made pools.  In both cases, the waters were bracingly cold but refreshing.  The rocks were also slippery so we had to watch our step.  Even after lunch, we continued frolicking at the pools.  After this refreshing dip, we packed up and hailed a Calapan-bound jeepney to get home.
 
Tamaraw Waterfalls: Brgy. Villaflor, Puerto Galera, Mindoro Oriental

Tour of Calapan (Mindoro Oriental)

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From Calapan port, we all boarded tricycles which brought us to Ronnie’s 2-storey house which is located by the sea. Upon arrival, we were welcomed by Ronnie’s elder sister Jing and their other relatives.  

At dining room with Ronnie (left) and Jing (center)
The porch overlooking the sea

Probably the only concrete house in the area, it had a spacious porch facing the sea (ideal for fishing and catching the sea breeze) and an airy roof deck where we had a panoramic view of the town, the sea and offshore islands.

View of Calapan Point
View of the town from the roof deck
View of offshore islands

After lunch, we all made a walking tour of the town proper.  At the town plaza, in front of the municipal hall, is a monument to a Mangyan youth.  There are also statues to our national heroes Jose Rizal and Andres Bonifacio as well local son Macario Adriatico, the first representative of Mindoro.

The town plaza

The Cathedral of the Holy Infant (Sto. Nino) is the seat of the Calapan Vicariate since October 3, 1951.  The original church, founded by Recollect Fr. Diego de la Madre in 1670, had two watchtowers.  It was torn down in 1959 to give way to the new cathedral. 

The Cathedral of the Holy Infant
After our sightseeing tour of the town center, we proceeded to the gray sand Aganhaw Beach which is located 4 kms. from the town proper.

Aganhaw Beach

After our sightseeing tour, we all proceeded to the house of Ronnie’s aunt where we had supper before returning home for a much needed rest.

My First Visit to Mindoro Oriental

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During the All Saints Day break, 8 year old Jandy and I joined Jandy’s TLC (The Learning Center) teachers Erwin Cifra, Glorain “Rainy” Canillas and Felipe Ronnie Martinez plus Rainy’s friends Lourdes “Lulu” Siguenza and Liezl Lumbao, on a tour of Mindoro Oriental, a first for both of us.  We plan to stay in Ronnie’s family home in Calapan, the capital of the province.  

L-R Erwin, Jandy, Rainy, Lulu & Liezl

From Manila, we all took the very early morning (4:30 AM) airconditioned  BLTB (Batangas Laguna Tayabas Bus) bus bound for Batangas City.  The land trip took just 2.5 hrs. and we arrived at Batangas International Port in time to buy tickets and catch the next RORO (Roll On Roll Off) ship to Calapan.

On our way

Aside from passengers, these ancient, ocean-going ships also carry wheeled cargo such as cars, trucks, trailers and buses that are driven on and off the ship on their own wheels.  They are so named for their built-in ramps and doors that allow cargo be “rolled on” and “rolled off” the vessel when in port.

One of the islands we passed

The boat trip, via the Verde Island Passage (one of the busiest sea lanes in the country) took a slow 2.5 hours.  Still, it was scenic all the way as our passed a bevy of islands.  Just out of Batangas Port, we were awed by the rugged cliffs and white sand beaches of the 8-km. long, thickly vegetated Verde Island.  Then, as we approached Calapan Bay, we passed the much   smaller but equally beautiful Baco Chico Island, Pulong Gitna and Pulong Munti.  We arrived at Calapan port by 9:30 AM.

Mardi Gras in the Philippines (Kalibo, Aklan)

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We were now in our second day at the Akelco (Aklan Electric Cooperative) guesthouse in Lezo (Aklan), having just arrived there yesterday afternoon upon the invitation of its general manager Job Y. Besana.  Today was to be a fun day as we were going to attend the extraordinary Ati-Atihan Festival, one of the most exciting and exuberant festivals in the country. The Ati-Atihan is invariably described by many as the “Mardi Gras of the Philippines” or the “country’s greatest party.”

Parading with Tribu Bukid Tigayon

This spectacular, 300-year old celebration is held in honor of the Sto. Niño (Holy Child), Kalibo’s patron saint, who was said to have saved the town from Moro raiders.  A mixture of pagan and Christian elements, this exuberant festival usually attracts an estimated 50,000 local and foreign tourists yearly.  Flights to and from Kalibo, as well as the town’s hotels and pension houses, are usually fully booked at this time.

However, we arrived just a little over a month after the December 1-9, 1989 coup de etat attempt in Manila and, as a consequence, foreign tourist arrivals are down. However, there was a plus side to this as lesser crowds  means easier access to the festival action.   We left the Akelco guesthouse right after lunch and, although Kalibo was  just less than 10 kms. away, the going was slow as we approached the town as there were still lots of people gathered along the street to watch the parade.

After parking our car, it was all footwork from hereon as we walked towards the parade route.  The parade was already underway when we arrived.   The parade featured tribus (“tribes”) composed of members of local barangays and organizations, each with its own striking costume made from local materials like coconut shells, feathers and fronds.  Participants also blacken their faces with soot and imitate the Atis, Aklan’s Negrito inhabitants, after whom the festival was named for.

Grace, Mommy, Jandy and I

The atmosphere was electrifying with its swirl of riotous color, reverberating drumbeats and cries of “Hala Bira!” and “Viva kay Señor Sto. Niño” (“Long Live the Holy Child”) as participants dance the Ati-Ati, a ritual dance with different movements.  Foreign, as well as, local visitors were also enticed to join in the dancing, drinking and the uninhibited revelry.   The festival also features a beauty pageant (Miss Kalibo Ati-Atihan), fireworks display, a Purchase of Panay re-enactment, a 9-day novena, field mass, pahilot (or paeappak, an old faith healing tradition), cockfight derbies, crafts fair and a torch parade and procession.    

Jandy admiring an Ati

Kalibo Tourism Office: Magsaysay Park, Kalibo, Aklan. Tel: (036) 262-1020, 268-4110, 262-3241 & 262-3079. Fax: (036)  268-4120 & 262-3241.

Boracay Here We Come! (Malay, Aklan)

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After breakfast at Dad’s ancestral home in Malay, we boarded the L-200 and were driven, along 6 kms. of dirt road, to the makeshift jetty port at Brgy. Caticlan.  Here, we boarded a big outrigger boat for Boracay Island.  Our 15-min. pumpboat ride to the island was smooth all the way and soon the crystal blue waters turned sparklingly clear as we approached the island’s famous White Beach.  It was just about noontime and the palm-fringed beach’s dazzlingly white sand was practically deserted and enchanting.

On our way

Our boat docked at Boat Station 2, actually just an open beach point without piers where boats land.  All passengers, including us, have to alight the boat via a narrow gangplank then wade a short distance through the shallow water to the beach.  Others, however, hired brawny porters to carry them to shore on their shoulders.  From the beach, we walked a short distance to a narrow alley.  From the alley entrance, we walked a further 100 m. to Lion’s Den Resort on our left.

This rustic resort, owned and managed by Lowell A. Talamisan, an apo (grandnephew) of my father-in-law and a nephew of my wife Grace, is conveniently located midway between the beach and Main Road.  Here, we stayed at one of the resort’s quaint and cozy nipa and bamboo cottages with private bath.  Our cottage also had a verandah with a nice hammock slung at the posts.

Jandy and his lola relaxing at the verandah

Boracay Island then was without electricity and our cottage was lit at night with gas lanterns.  Other high-end resorts were powered by generators.  This didn’t matter to us then, since food and accommodation were inexpensive and the people were friendly. Sometimes we would dine on grilled blue marlin at the resort or dine out at the restaurant of the nearby Red Coconut Resort.

White Beach circa 1990

The most exhilarating portion of our 3-day stay on the island was  the  feel of the sand of White Beach, snow white and fine as sifted confectionary sugar, top-grade cake flour or baby powder.   It was so white you can get a total suntan  due to the  sun’s  reflection on the sand.  The  aquamarine  water was shallow and clear and the sunset was always magnificent.

Sand, sea and sky at Boracay

Up north along White Beach, across Willy’s Beach Resort, is Willy’s Rock, the familiar and frequently photographed landmark that dominates the seascape.  This large, castle-like natural boulder rises 7 m. (23 ft.) from the sand.

Posing by the much photographed Willy’s Rock

 

My First Visit to Aklan

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My father-in-law, Engr. Manuel L. Sta. Maria, retired deputy administrator of the National Electrification Administration (NEA) and a resident of Malay, Aklan, suggested that we visit his hometown and its emerging star – Boracay  Island. It would my first and Grace’s second visit, she having visited the place sometime in 1978 when White Beach was then blissfully deserted.

Grace at Boracay, circa 1978

The timing of the visit couldn’t have been any better.  Grace (then 5 months pregnant with my daughter Cheska), 3-1/2 year-old Jandy, my in-laws and I arrived  in Kalibo on  board a Philippine Airlines morning flight, just over a month after the nearly successful December 1-9, 1989 coup de etat.  Tourist arrivals were still down but this later proved to be a blessing in disguise.

Our arrival at Kalibo Airport
We were all picked up at the airport by an airconditioned L-200 pickup. The trip to Malay town proper took all of of 90 mins. and the  going  was rough as we approached Brgy. Caticlan, Malay, , the gateway to Boracay Island, because the zigzag road there was still unpaved and dusty.  Foreign tourists, however, didn’t seem to mind as we  saw many  of them  clinging precariously onto the roofs of  jeepneys, thoroughly  enjoying  the bumpy and dusty ride to Brgy Caticlan.  The views of the Sibuyan Sea from the road were magnificent.  Along the dusty part of the road to Malay, we chance upon Malay Mayor Roger S. Aguirre, the nephew of my father-in-law and Grace’s first cousin, who was supervising the concreting the road.
  
My father-in-law’s ancestral house

We finally arrived at my  father-in-law’s old 2-storey, wood and concrete  ancestral house located near the plaza and seashore. The town of Malay was created only in 1949, being a barrio of Buruanga before that time.  The father of Tay Lolong (as my father-in-law was called there), Mr. Melanio Sta. Maria, was mayor of Buruanga from 1925-29.  The street in front of the house was named after him.

Jandy frolicking by the beach
About 50 m. from the house was the shallow, brown sand beach of the town and beyond it, seemingly within paddling distance, were the enticing white sands of Boracay’s White Beach.  We just couldn’t wait to get there.

Puerto Azul Golf and Country Club (Ternate, Cavite)

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From the  Palace in the Sky in Tagaytay City, we next motored, via the Naic-Indang Rd., to the town of Ternate where we  visited the 1,024-hectare Puerto Azul Golf & Country Club.  This 5-star resort, carved out of heavily forested valleys and towering mountains, was developed during the 1970s Marcos era.

Check out “Palace in the Sky“

We first made a stopover at Paniman Beach along Paniman Bay, one of the resort’s 4 gray sand beaches (the others are Caysubic, Cayokno and Palicpican).  During its earlier days, this beach used to be covered with white sand said to have been brought over from Boracay, then unknown to the Filipinos.  The white sand is now gone, washed away by the tides.

Mel and Grace at one of Puerto Azul’s beaches

From the beach, we next negotiated a steep road to get to its lookout which has a view of the resort’s 100-hectare golf course, a private club open only to hotel guests.  One of the country’s most scenic courses, the golf here is surpassed only by views of Palicpican Beach.  Designed by world-renowned golfer Gary Player and Ron Kirby, this 18-hole, 6,556-yard, par 72 (adjustable to 71 for big events like the Philippine Open) golf course has a front 9 with rugged terrain punctuated with mountains, pristine rivers and streams while the back nine is close to the sea.

The scenic golf course

The course takes you through jungle, up and over mountains and finishes up on the beach.  An elevator takes you from the 6th green up to the 7th tee.  The last two tee shots on the back nine are probably the most dramatic. The par 3 17th Hole, the courses’ signature hole, is protected on its left by one of the deepest water hazards in Philippine golf – the South China Sea.  The 18th hole is across the beach.  Facilities include the nine-hole par-36 Camandag Executive Links, a driving range, tee house, clubhouse, restaurant, bars, locker and shower rooms swimming pool, sauna and massage.

L-R, Alex, Mel, Grace, Jandy and the author at the lookout

We can also see some of the 17 3 to 4-storey cluster buildings which houses 325 airconditioned rooms.  The resort is also home to restaurants, coffee shops, bars, 2 swimming pools, 300-pax ballrooms, 8 60-pax function rooms, business center, jacuzzi, sauna, 6 outdoor and 3 indoor tennis courts, 6-lane bowling center, volleyball/basketball court, two squash courts and 2 nature trails.

AUTHOR’S NOTES

Though still open, this resort, once dubbed as “Asia’s Paradise Resort” and the “World’s Golfing Capital,” seems to have been abandoned, reportedly due to lack of financial resources to maintain the site.  The hotel and cottages are worn out, the beach is dirty and only South Korean nationals use the not so well-maintained golf course.  However, Boulevard Holdings, the owner and operator of the site, plans to renovate the existing hotel and build an 8-room boutique hotel and 150-room grand convention hotel.

Puerto Azul Golf and Country Club: Brgy. Sapang,  Ternate, Cavite.  Tel:  524-0026 to 27.  Manila sales office: Tel: 844-8541.