Roman Ruins (Vienna, Austria)

Directly at the entryway to the palace complex of the Hofburg, in the middle of Vienna, on the Michaelerplatz,  is a small excavation site ringed by gorgeous architecture. The cobblestoned Michaelerplatz  “square” (it’s actually circular), bounded by the Spanish Riding School and St. Michael’s Church, is a major pick-up point for tours by fiaker  (horse-drawn carriages).

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The Roman Ruins

Uncovered by archaeologists between 1989 and 1991, here, traces of the structural remains, from different epochs, of a Roman legionary outpost (canabae legionis), the settlement outside the Roman legionary fortress Vindobona, have been found. In this settlement lived the families (i.e. concubines and children) of the legionaries. There were also some inns, shops and brothels. The settlement was probably destroyed between 168 and 180 by Marcomanni.

The 1st century crossroads of two main streets, the “Amber street” from the Aquae region (today Baden south from Vienna) and the street along the limes, have also been found. The final form for public presentation was done by the Austrian architect Hans Hollein.

Roman RuinsMichaelerplatz, Vienna, Austria. Admission: free.

Neue Burg – Ephesos Museum (Vienna, Austria)

Ephesus Museum

Ephesos Museum

Our combination ticket at the Neue Berg  included entry to the Ephesos Museum and the much more memorable Imperial Treasury. This infrequently visited museum, an annex to the Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities. may be hard to find as it is hidden away on the first floor at the back of the library section of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. It is essential to get an audio guide as the exhibits are labeled in German.

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Segment of gable (The Library of Celsus)

Segment of gable (The Library of Celsus)

The exhibition consists of statues, busts, reliefs, pieces of architecture and other ancient Greek pieces of art. Most of the artifacts are damaged or broken but they are very well organized and exhibited in the best possible way. Photography without flash or tripod was permitted.

Segment of an Ionic capital

Segment of an Ionic capital

Ephesos, one of the largest and most important cities of the ancient world, lies on the Aegean coast of present-day Turkey. With two million visitors annually, it is Turkey’s most-visited tourist destination after the Hagia Sophia and Topkapı Palace in Istanbul. It was here that the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, stood. The city was also the home of Heraclitus, as well as of one of the largest early-Christian communities. In Roman times,  Ephesos became capital of the Province of Asia, with around 200,000 inhabitants.

L-R: Cheska, Jandy, Manny, Vicky and Grace

L-R: Cheska, Jandy, Manny, Vicky and Grace

The museum was completely deserted as we spent time enjoying, without interruption, these vibrant and exciting depictions of gods, emperors and battle scenes in their purpose built gallery. This collection of largely Roman statuary and artifacts was apparently gifted to Austria by the Turks. The museum’s collection began when Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II donated some of the archaeological findings to Emperor Franz Joseph I. Since 1895, Austrian archaeologists of the newly founded Austrian Archaeological Institute have began conducting research and excavating the ruins of Ephesos.

Fragmentary heads from an Erotes frieze

Fragmentary heads from an Erotes frieze

Between 1896 and 1906, a total of seven expeditions transported numerous recovered objects, their high quality probably equal to the Elgin Marbles or the Pergamon Gate, from Ephesos to Vienna by Austrian Navy vessels. With the proclamation of the Turkish Antiquities Law of 1907, the export of antiquities from Turkey was generally banned. However, archaeological digs, with Austrian involvement, still continue in Ephesos to this day.

Oktagon Arsinoe IV

Oktagon Arsinoe IV

For many years, the collection was provisionally warehoused and put on occasional display at the Theseus Temple (discontinued because of damage to the exhibits) in the Volksgarten (in 1911) until December 1978 when the Vienna Ephesos Museum was opened, in its present-day form, inside the Neue Burg section of the Hofburg Palace complex. Alongside the Ephesian artifacts, the museum is also home to architectural and sculptural cult relics from the Sanctuary of the Great Gods on the Greek island of Samothrace, which was explored by Austrian archaeologists in 1873 and 1875.

The Theban sphinx mangles a boy; Roman copy of a detail of the throne of Phidias' statue of Zeus in Olympia. 440 BCE

The Theban sphinx mangles a boy; Roman copy of a detail of the throne of Phidias’ statue of Zeus in Olympia. 440 BCE

Child with a Goose

Child with a Goose

We were presented with a representative selection of Roman sculptures that once decorated the’ richly decorated facades of magnificent ancient buildings such as the sprawling thermal bath facilities and the Ephesian Theater.  The highlights of the collection include the so-called Parthian Monument; remnants from the late-Classical Altar of Artemis, including a sculpture of an Amazon; the bronze Athlete statue and the Child with a Goose.

Statue of Artemis

Statue of Artemis

Staircases lead, from the entrance hall, to a large chamber, containing the The Parthian Monument, a frieze  celebrating the emperor Lucius Verus‘ victory over the Parthians.  During his Parthian Campaign of 161-165 AD, the emperor established a camp in Ephesos. Unique in both its size and importance, the friezes have a total length of about 70 m., of which 40 m. On display. are a panorama of military scenes with brilliant depictions of battle, hunt, the art of riding and victory.

Parthian Monument

Parthian Monument

Parthian Monument (2)

It was sharp and brilliant, as if quite recently carved.  Its individual pieces have been arranged in the form of a monumental altar in five thematic cycles. As they were not found in their original state, this is only a guess at their correct arrangement. There’s also a model of ancient Ephesos, on a scale of 1:500, that makes it possible for us to better understand the objects’ respective positioning within the city’s topography.

Hadrian and Antoninus Pius adopt Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus

Hadrian and Antoninus Pius adopt Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus

The Emperor's Apotheosis

The Emperor’s Apotheosis

The Ephesos Museum in Vienna serves as an ambassador for Austria’s intensive efforts in the interest of ancient Ephesos. Both the care of the ruins and the reconstruction and rebuilding of ancient monuments are also part of the Austrian researchers’ mission, and the Ephesos Museum provides an Austrian-based platform with which to represent their many years of work. 

Model of ancient Ephesus, on a scale of 1:500

Model of ancient Ephesus, on a scale of 1:500

Ephesos Museum  : Neue Burg, Heldenplatz, 1010 Vienna. Opening hours: Wednesdays – Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM. Admission till half an hour before closing time. Tel: +43 1 525 24 4902.  Website: www.khm.at.  E-mail: info.ansa@khm.at.

Neue Burg – Collection of Arms and Armor (Vienna, Austria)

Collection of Arms and Armor

Collection of Arms and Armor

The outstanding Collection of Arms and Armor (Hofjadg und Rüstkammer) of Neue Burg, among the best of its kind in the world, is the best-documented collection of court arms and armor in the western world.  The armor and weaponry is from military campaigns; but many were ornamental (good for checking out the girls, but not suitable for combat) – generally created or acquired in connection with important political occasions: coronations, tributes, engagements, weddings, baptisms, state events, Imperial Diets, ceremonies of homage, etc.

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An array of suits of armor

An array of suits of armor

Many of the suits of armor in the displays are custom creations made by the most notable armorers. Some of the most famous examples are the elegant cuirassier armor designed for jousting for the legendary Emperor Maximilian I by Lorenz Helmschmied (the “Rathausmann,” Vienna′s odd mascot on the top of the Town Hall, was inspired by Maximilian′s costume armor), the Armor for a Horseman by the Lombardy Italian artisan Tommaso Missaglia, the Half-Armor alla Romana by Filippo Negroli and the boy-sized Folded Skirt Armor suit created by Konrad Seusenhofer for the future Habsburg Emperor Charles V.

Collection of Arms and Armor (41)

Collection of Arms and Armor (48)

The often magnificent etchings were quite frequently based on designs by such famous artists as Albrecht Dürer and Hans Holbein. Also on display are the ceremonial rapier of Emperor Maximilian II – perhaps the most beautiful ceremonial weapon ever made.  Aside from the beautiful pieces of armor for humans and horses and weapons, there are also tapestries, banners, paintings, etc.

Suit of armor components

Suit of armor components

The Arms and Armor Collection represents courts, from 14th century through the 19th century (with some even older items), of most of the western European states – Bohemia, Hungary, Galicia, various Balkan areas, territory of the present-day BENELUX countries (Belgium, Netherlands and Luxembourg), provinces of present-day France (Burgundy, Alsace, Lorraine), Spain and large parts of Italy.

Fully armored knight and his horse

Fully armored knight and his horse

The arms and armor collection is essentially three collections of utilitarian military weapons joined and displayed in two main connected Baroque halls of honor commemorating the royal Austrian Hapsburg family history. Documented since 1436, the Chamber of Imperial Personal Armor (Leibrüstkammer) contains the ornamental weapons and suits of armor of the ruling house and associated families.

Armor for a young boy

Armor for a young boy

The Court Weapon and Court Hunting Chamber  (Hofgewehr-oder Hofjagdkammer), founded by the Emperor Ferdinand II of Tyrol, features the highest design works, created for hunting or for sport by the decorative artist, from every era up to the end of the monarchy and empire in 1918. It includes a vast array of exquisitely crafted shields, helmets and weapons, including the Adlergarnitur (Eagle Armor) for himself. Every single one of these objects is a work of art.

Collection of Arms and Armor (72)

The stunning variety of court arms and armor include all types of melee weapons, shields, full suits of armor, swords, early firearms, helmets, maces, hammers, halberds, spears, lances, you name it they got it. The first room contained full scale models of jousting knights while a number of rooms containing helmets and sumptuous suits of armor from different historical periods. Some of the more unique pieces included numerous sets of ceremonial armor for horses (one had a 3D dragon design at its tail) and a mechanical breastplate used in jousting.

A display of swords

A display of swords

At an inner courtyard, we saw rifles and hunting equipment including a number of falcon hoods. A quite interesting section featured an extensive 16th century collection from the Middle East and Near Orient – ranging from those of the Turkish enemy (who very nearly broke the empire), to those of the Persians and Egyptians, who were occasionally allied with the Habsburgs.

Middle East and Near Orient swords and firearms

Middle East and Near Orient swords and firearms

Middle East and Near Orient swords and helmets

Middle East and Near Orient swords and helmets

A quite intriguing and more curious full-metal armor had gloves with spikes at the fingertips and helmets with just a sprinklings of tiny holes (making it painfully hard to see the enemy).  Some highly decorated suits of armor, with bright, almost gaudy, patterns, just ha just enough space for a huge codpiece.

A gaudy and colorful suit of armor

A gaudy and colorful suit of armor

Others, created for festival days (probably never saw a moment of combat), have metallic visor shapes in the form of fantastical faces (probably a reflection of those inside the armor) or creatures of pure fantasy. Another curious suit of armor, with a full skirt made out of billowing metal and a rather amble chest allowance, truly amazed me as it most probably was designed for a woman, one of the more unique examples to be found anywhere.

A Japanese samurai's suit of armor

A Japanese samurai’s suit of armor

The collection, spread out over a large number of rooms, was not quite overwhelming as one of the collection’s outstanding aspects is the manner in which the items were displayed. Rather than being set out on rack upon rack, they were all set out differently as they were not hidden behind glass enclosures. We can approach each item closely and view it from 360-degrees, making for awesome pictures and allowing great detail observation.

A pair of saddles

A pair of saddles

After the first few thousands of arms and armor, it could be easily boring but the museum still does a very good job in teaching visitors about technical innovations in warfare and how they influenced the design of arms. Very quiet, with a few visitors, the exhibit was very interesting and enjoyable but not English friendly as all descriptions were in German. Still it was a must see, an ideal place to bring the boys in the family and well worth the two hour visit.

Crossbows

Crossbows

Display of rifles and pistols

Display of rifles and pistols

Collection of Arms and Armor: Neue Burg, Heldenplatz, 1010 Vienna. Opening hours:  Wednesdays – Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM. Admission till half an hour before closing time. Photography is allowed. Admission prices: e €14 (adults), €11 (Concessions).  Children and Teens are free. A combined ticket, including the Treasures of the Habsburgs (located in another building), is €20 for adults. The Audio Guide is an additional charge of €4 and Guided Tours in groups are €3. Vienna Card Holders get a price reduction.

Neue Burg – Collection of Historic Musical Instruments (Vienna, Austria)

Collection of Historic Musical Instruments

Collection of Historic Musical Instruments

The Collection of Historic Musical Instruments (Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente), located in the wing of the Austrian National Library that also houses the Ephesos Museum’s collection of antiques and the Collection of Arms and Armor, is home to one of the world’s most important, most comprehensive and also among the most valuable historical collections of late Italian Renaissance and early Baroque instruments.  The collection includes a particularly comprehensive range of clavichords and Viennese fortepianos. It was interesting to see such old forerunners of our current instruments such as the coronet, oboe, piano, organ, and woodwinds.

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Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (21)

The majority of the holdings of the collection have their origins in Habsburg holdings.  The art and music-loving Tyrolean sovereign Archduke Ferdinand II’s love of preciosities started the collection.  Among the richest and most valuable collections of the late Renaissance, it was part of an art chamber that was housed in the Ambras Castle in Tyrol. When the situation became dangerous due to the Napoleonic Wars, the collection was transferred from Innsbruck to Vienna in 1806.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (11)

The second core group in the collection consists of instruments of the Obizzi family dating back to the late Renaissance and the early Baroque period. Family-related events were responsible for the transfer of the Obizzi Collection to Vienna in 1870.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (16)

In the spring of 1947, the collection was presented in one room of the Neue Burg. Further rooms were set up an, after several years, a full range of instruments was finally on display. This process was completed in 1964. The collection has since been continually expanded via purchases, gifts and loans and, in the period since the 1980s, the collection has been expanded by a further 400 items.

The area of the Viennese fortepiano

The area of the Viennese fortepiano

Today, each of its 12 rooms are dedicated either to an era of music history or to a musical personality. The chronological approach to music history allows the presentation both of ensembles of related instruments, from the most diverse instrumental families, and of typical forms of music making.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (6)

A gallery is dedicated to Joseph Haydn and his days. Some of the harpsichords were played by Mozart and Beethoven. There’s also a set of 16th century shawms that are shaped like dragons; an elaborately decorated clavicytherium; a violin made from the shells of a tortoise and owned by Empress Maria Theresa; a glass harmonica invented by Benjamin Franklin; and a crystal flute.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (2)

Particularly noteworthy are the 4-stringed instruments by Jakob Stainer and Giovanni Battista Grancino, donated in 2003/04 by Dr. Herbert and Evelyn Axelrod.  The violins by Stainer, although not approaching the mastery of Antonio Stradivari or Giuseppe Guarneri del Gesu, are famous or their snail carvings (mostly the scrolls), evidence of the craftsmanship of the 17th century.

A pair of harps

A pair of harps

The museum maintains and presents numerous instruments that were played by famous musicians and composers.  Among them is the violin played by Leopold Mozart (the father and pedagogue of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart), on display by itself in a glass case, making it look like a shrine that bears the magic of genius. The grand fortepiano that was once in the possession of Clara and Robert Schumann, was later owned by Johannes Brahms.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (7)

You can also see the zither on which Anton Karas played the haunting theme-song from the 1949 British film “The Third Man.” Audio guides, produced in 2001 in several languages, takes visitors through the display collection, explaining organological details, affording insights into Austrian musical history and offering numerous listening examples related to the historical instruments on display.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (19)

Visitors can also play on reproductions of original instruments. The Matinees of the Collection of Historic Musical Instruments give visitors the opportunity to both see and hear the instruments, insofar as their condition allows them to be played. Several of the keyboard instruments were clearly labelled as playable by visitors.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (1)

The Collection of Historic Musical Instruments made us look back on a tradition that spans over four centuries. Truly the world of sound in which the composers of Viennese Classicism lived can be heard and understood here in a nearly complete fashion.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (17)

Collection of Historic Musical Instruments: Neue Burg, Heldenplatz, 1010 Vienna. Opening hours: Wednesdays – Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM. Admission till half an hour before closing time.  Tel: +43 1 525 24 4602. Website: www.khm.at.  E-mail: info.sam@khm.at.

Neue Burg (Vienna, Austria)

Neue Burg

Upon arrival at the grandiose New Castle (Neue Burg) within the Hofburg Palace Complex, Grace, Vicky, Manny, Cheska, Jandy and I availed of a combination ticket that includes admission to important Imperial collections at three of Neue Burg’s four specialty museums, all branch museums of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, which was in urgent need for more exhibition space  – the Ephesus Museum, the Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente (Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments) and the Hofjadg und Rüstkammer (Collection of Arms and Armor).

Check out “Kunsthistorisches Museum,“Kunsthistorisches Museum – Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection,” “Kunsthistorisches Museum – Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities,” “Kunsthistorisches Museum – Picture Gallery” and “Kunsthistorisches Museum – Kunstkammer.”

L-R: Jandy, Grace, Vicky and Cheska

The massive, curved new wing on the southwest, the Neue Berg is the most recent and grandest addition to the Hofburg complex. Designed by Ringstrasse architects Gottfried Semper and Karl Freiherr von Hasenauer, it was built between 1881 and 1913.

Ceiling frescoes

A symbol of architectural overconfidence, the Neue Burg was part of a much larger scheme to make the Hofburg rival the Louvre, if not Versailles. It originally contained the personal memorabilia of Archduke Franz Ferdinand.

From the balcony of the terraced central bay on New Castle onto Heroes’ Square, Adolf Hitler, on March 15, 1938, proclaimed, to the tens of thousands of the Viennese gathered outside, the “Anschluss” of Austria into the Third Reich (Deutsches Reich).

The palace’s spectacular Baroque design is reflected both inside and out. The opulent marble staircase displays artifacts removed from the ancient Greek city of Ephesus (now in present-day Turkey).

The marble stairway

The Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments and the Collection of Arms and Armor are only accessible via an elevator at the ticket counter level while the Ephesos Museum can only be reached, from this level, via a 60-step stairway.

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments

The Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments (Sammlung Alter Musik Instrumente), which arrived at Neue Burg post-war in 1945, contains a wonderfully diverse and impressive array of Renaissance-period musical instruments, including pianos owned by Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert and Joseph Haydn, and the world’s oldest surviving claviorgan (1596).

Collection of Ancient Musical Instruments

Showcasing the musical journey from harpsichord to modern-day piano, highlights in the museum include archaic wind instruments, mandolins and priceless violins.

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Ephesos Museum

The Ephesos Museum features artifacts unearthed during Austrian archaeologists’ excavations, between 1895 and 1906, from the Greek and Roman site at Ephesus in Turkey plus findings from the Greek island of Samothrace, excavated in the 1870s.

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Collection of Arms and Armor

The Collection of Arms and Armor (Hofjägd und Rüstkammer), which moved into its palatial new home in 1935, displays to stunning effect, in long, marble-floored corridors, battle armor, worn by both man and beast, dating mainly from the 15th and 16th centuries.

Also on display are fine weaponry, remarkable in terms of size and workmanship (filigree inlay on swords, medieval ceremonial saddles and jeweled Turkish and Syrian maces), the core of which are the personal armories of the Habsburgs.

Check outNeue Burg – Collection of Arms and Armor

Aside from the three museums, it houses the reading rooms of the Austrian National Library, the Hofburg Congress Center of international renown, the Hofburg Info Centre, the Imperial Shop and the Weltmuseum Wien (Museum of Ethnology) whose galleries explore the aspects of travel, anthropology and ethnography with exhibits from across the globe.

Austrian National Library

Neue Burg: Heldenplatz, 1010 Vienna.  Open Wednesdays to Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM. Admission: adults (€12), young people under 19 years (free). Audio guides cost €5. Tel: 01-525–240.

How to Get There:

The closest subway station is Museumsquartier on the U2 line but it’s only a short walk from Volkstheater (U3 and U2), Herrengasse (U3) and Stephansplatz (U3 and U1). By tram/bus, the Ring trams stop practically outside. Take the 1, 2, D or 71 to Burgring.

Volksgarten (Vienna, Austria)

The free, accessible  Volksgarten (“People’s Garden”), a lovingly maintained public park and garden in the Innere Stadt first district of , offers a relaxing atmosphere in the center of Vienna to the citizens and tourists.  Originally used for fortifications, the park was built over the city fortifications (Burgbastei) that were destroyed by Napoleon in 1809. Part of the Hofburg Palace, it is located directly beside the Heldenplatz and the Hofburg buildings.

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Volksgarten (People’s Garden)

The Volksgarten area, designed in the manner of the Luxembourg Garden in Paris, was laid out in the French Baroque style in 1821 by Ludwig van Remy and its gardening design was done by court gardener Franz Antoine. Now often used by wedding photographers for its romantic scenery, the park is famous for its beautiful rose gardens (with over 3,000 rose bushes of about 400 different cultivars of roses) shady alleys and comfortable park chairs and benches.

Grace, Vicky, Cheska and Kyle at the Volksgarten

Here’s the historical timeline of the park:

  • Between 1596 and 1597, a fortress wall was built on the eastern side of park.
  • In 1639, additional fortifications were built on the southern side.
  • In 1809, these fortifications were destroyed by Napoleon’s French troops.
  • Between 1817 and 1821, the area near Ballhausplatz square was converted to gardens originally intended for a private garden for the archdukes. These plans were changed through a proposal by the court garden administration to turn the area into the first public park in the city.
  • On March 1, 1823, the park was officially opened to the public.
  • Starting in 1825, the name Volksgarten was commonly used.
  • In 1862, the gardens were extended toward Ringstraße after the city moat had been filled in.

The white, shining, Neo-Classical Theseus Temple (Theseustempel), a particularly impressive photo scene at the center of the park, is a small-scale replica of the Temple of Hephaestus (Theseion) in Athens. Designed by Pietro di Nobile and completed in 1821, it was originally designed to house the sculpture, of Antonio Canova (who was also involved in the construction of the temple), of Theseus Battling the Centaur.  In 1890, Canova’s sculpture at the Theseus Temple was moved to the Museum of Fine Arts.

Temple of Theseus (Theseustempel)

The park has a couple of cafes.  The Cortisches coffee house, built between 1820 and 1823 by Peter Nobile was where Austrian Romantic composers and waltz kings Johann Strauss I and Joseph Lanner performed.  The Cafè Meierei, an excellent place to interrupt your walk, was originally built in 1890 as a water reservoir and converted to a milk drinking hall (Milchtrinkhalle) in 1924. Here, you can have a breakfast, a snack or a wiener melange- (coffee with milk).  The Milchpavillon was built in 1951 by Oswald Haerdtl.

The Sisi (Empress Elizabeth) Monument, at the northern end of the park, was designed by Hans Bitterlich and Friedrich Ohmann and completed in 1907. A 2.5 m. high statue of a seated Empress Elisabeth, at the center of the monument, was sculpted by Hans Bitterlich from an 8,000 kg. block of Laaser marble. The monument was dedicated on June 4, 1907 in the presence of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria.

Jandy

The Franz Grillparzer Monument, at the southern end of the park, has the seated marble figure of Austrian poet and writer Franz Grillparzer  sculpted by Carl Kundmann and completed in 1875.  He is shown in contemplation holding a book in his left hand.

The Volksgarten contains two fountains – the Triton and Nymphenbrunnen (Nymph Fountain, built in 1880 by Viktor Tilgner) and the Volksgarten Fountain (erected in 1866 by Anton Dominik Fernkorn).

Café Meierei: Open 9 AM – 9 PM (April – September).
Volksgarten: Dr. K. Lueger Ring, 1010 Vienna, Austria. Open 6 AM – 10 PM (April – October) and 7 AM -5:30 PM (November – March).  Website: www.bundesgaerten.at.

How to Get There: there’s a tram stop (Ring/Volkstheater) and subway station (Volkstheater) outside, served by the U2 and U3 train lines and the 1, 2, D, 46, 49, and 71 trams.  Entrances are available from Heldenplatz, Burgtheater and Ringstrasse across from the Austrian Parlament (a 3-min. walk).

Imperial Treasury (Vienna, Austria)

Imperial Treasury

Imperial Treasury

After purchasing our combination tickets at the Neau Berg, we started our museum tour at the Imperial Treasury (Kaiserliche Schatzkammer), entering via the 13th century Schweizerhof (Swiss Courtyard, a reminder of the Swiss Guards once stationed here), the oldest part of the palace, which was rebuilt in the 16th century in the Renaissance style under Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I.

Entrance to the 13th century Schweizerhof (Swiss Courtyard)

Entrance to the 13th century Schweizerhof (Swiss Courtyard)

Located in the medieval part of the Hofburg Palace, next to the Hofburg Chapel, the Imperial Treasury, affiliated with the Kunsthistorisches Museum, is housed in 21 rooms. One of Vienna’s most important attractions, it is divided into two collections: the secular collection (subject to the responsibility of the Chamberlain or Oberkämmerer) and the ecclesiastical collection, covering over a thousand years of European history.

Imperial Crown, Orb, and Sceptre of Austria

Imperial crown, orb, and scepter of Austria

The secular collection is a valuable collection of numerous, fascinating and rare imperial treasures and insignia from the Imperial House of Habsburg  (one of the most influential dynasties of the Christian Occident), set up from 1556 by the scholar Jacopo Strada, court antiquarian of Ferdinand I.

Imperial Regalia

Imperial Regalia

Ceremonial robe of St. Stephen-Order

Ceremonial robe of St. Stephen-Order

Among the treasures from the possessions are charming pieces of jewelry once worn by Empress Elisabeth; The regalia of the Archduchy of Austria (with the cord casing of the archducal hat made for the coronation of King Joseph II in 1764); the Burgundian Treasure from the 15th century (including magnificently embroidered robes, all part of the dowry of Mary the Rich at her wedding with Archduke Maximilian I in 1477), the original insignia (scepter and the orb) of the Kingdom of Bohemia;  and the Treasure of the Order of the Golden Fleece ( from the heritage of Mary’s father Duke Charles the Bold), unique textile art from the Late Middle Ages: precious gold and silk embroidery of the highest quality transferred from Brussels in 1794.

Chain of the Order of the Golden Fleece

Chain of the Order of the Golden Fleece

Imperial Jewels

Imperial Jewels

The Imperial Regalia (Reichskleinodien), insignia and jewels of the Emperors and Kings of the Holy Roman Empire (transferred from Nuremberg in 1800) include the Imperial Crown of the Holy Roman Empire, circa 962, the legendary 8th century Holy Lance, and the Imperial Sword.

Imperial Sword and scabbard

Imperial Sword and scabbard

The 10th century Crown of the Holy Roman Empire

The 10th century Crown of the Holy Roman Empire

The Austrian Crown Jewels, comprising the personal crown (made in 1602) of Emperor Rudolf II (1552-1612) which, with the proclamation of the Austrian Empire in 1804, became the Imperial Crown of Austria, with sceptre and globus cruciger; the regalia worn by Emperor Ferdinand I of Austria on the occasion of his coronation as King of Lombardy–Venetia in 1835, as well as the vestments and other precious items of the Order of Saint Stephen of Hungary and the Military Order of Maria Theresa. The insignia of the imperial house of Austria, symbols of might and dignity for centuries, are set with valuable and intricately worked jewels, all witnesses to history and worth a fortune.

Coronation vestments of the Kingdom of Lombardy & Venetia

Coronation vestments of the Kingdom of Lombardy & Venetia

Emerald unction vessel (2860 carats)

Emerald unction vessel (2860 carats)

Also on display are various valuable jewels and precious stones that, due to their unique size, could not be fitted into the imperial crowns. Like all secular treasuries, it was designed to attest to the political power, glory and geographical reach of the Habsburgs. They include one of the world’s largest cut emeralds.

Unicorn horn (actually a narwhal tusk)

Unicorn horn (actually a narwhal tusk)

Meissen altar set of the Empress Wilhelmine Amalla

Meissen altar set of the Empress Wilhelmine Amalla

Also part of the treasury are the crown of the Transylvanian prince Stephen Bocskay and the two “inalienable heirlooms of the House of Austria”-  an almost two and a half meter long narwhal tooth, acquired in Poland in 1540, which was thought to be the horn of a unicorn (Ainkhürn) and the Agate bowl (the largest carved bowl of its kind in the world), from Late Antiquity (4th century), which was thought to be the legendary Holy Grail.

Agate Bowl

Agate Bowl

Furthermore, there’s the Napoleonica artifacts) of Napoleon II (including his golden cradle with over a quarter of a ton of precious metals in it), Napoleon’s son  known from his birth as the “King of Rome,” and his mother Archduchess  Marie Louise.

Mary Louis Empress of the French

Mary Louis Empress of the French

Napoleon II's golden cradle

Napoleon II’s golden cradle

The ecclesiastical collection, administered by the Hofburg parish priest, contains numerous religious treasures, including relics and objects ascribed to the private ownership of saints.  They include a piece of the cross on which Jesus was crucified (including a nail hole, thus suggesting the wood is impregnated with his blood); a tooth from John the Baptist; a piece of the tablecloth used at the Last Supper; the nail used to pin Jesus’s right hand to the cross; and a tooth from St. Peter.  There are also devotional images and altars, mostly from the Baroque era.

Golden Rose by Giuseppe and Pietro Paolo Spagna. Rome, around 181819

Golden Rose by Giuseppe and Pietro Paolo Spagna. Rome, around 181819

Imperial Treasury: Hofburg, Schweizerhof, 1010 Vienna. Tel: +431 525  24 4031. Website: www.khm.at. E-mail: info.kk@khm.at. Open 9 AM – 5:30 PM.

How to Get There:

Subway:
U1: Station Karlsplatz or Stephansplatz
U2: Station Karlsplatz or Volkstheater
U3: Station Herrengasse or Stephansplatz
U4: Station Karlsplatz

Tram:
D Burgring, 1, 2, 71 to any stop between Karlsplatz and Dr. Karl Renner Ring

Bus:
1A or 2A and 3A to Michaelerplatz or Habsburgergasse

HOP ON HOP OFF: Red Line: Kunsthistorisches Museum / Heldenplatz

Hofburg Palace (Vienna, Austria)

Hofburg Palace Complex

The popular Hofburg, the extensive former imperial palace complex of the Habsburg dynasty rulers, was the political centre of the monarchy and was their principal imperial winter residence for over 600 years, as Schönbrunn Palace was their summer residence.  Previously, the castle of the Austrian rulers had been located on the Am Hof, a square near the Schottenstift (Scottish Monastery).

Check out “Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens

Since 1279, the Hofburg was the documented seat of government for various empires and republics,  housing some of the most powerful people in European and Austrian history including kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation (from 1438 to 1583 and from 1612 to 1806) and, thereafter, the seat of the Emperor of Austria of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918. Today, part of it forms the official residence and workplace of the Austrian Federal President.

Originally a fortified Medieval castle built in the 13th century, the Hofburg area has, over the centuries, been expanded by each emperor to include various residences (with the Amalienburg), the Imperial Chapel (Hofkapelle or Burgkapelle), the Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum) and Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Austrian National Library (Hofbibliothek), the Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer), the Burgtheater, the Spanish Riding School (Hofreitschule), the Imperial Horse Stables (Stallburg and Hofstallungen), and the Hofburg Congress Center.

Check out Kunsthistorisches Museum,”Imperial Treasury” and “Natural History Museum

This sprawling, asymmetric complex extends over 240,000 sq.m., consists of 18 wings, 19 courtyards and 2,600 rooms in which nearly 5,000 people still work and live today.

The Hofburg faces Heroes Square (Heldenplatz), ordered built under the reign of Emperor Francis Joseph, as part of what was to become an Imperial Forum (Kaiserforum), a two-winged structure reaching beyond the Ringstraße that was never completed. Standing at the foci of Heroes Square are the equestrian statues of Prince Eugene of Savoy and Archduke Charles, the two most important Austrian field marshals.

The statue of Archduke Charles

The Alte Burg (Old Fortress), the  oldest part of the Hofburg has, since the 18th century, been called the Schweizertrakt (Swiss Wing) after the Swiss Guards who served as the palace watch. Over the centuries, the palace underwent alterations and, thought the core of the Medieval fortress complex has been preserved, its four corner towers, most of the moat and the drawbridge had to make way for that.

The Swiss Court (Schweizerhof), built during the reign of Emperor Ferdinand I in the style of the Renaissance, corresponds somewhat to a square formed around the oldest sections of the castle which originate from the 13th century and were primarily constructed by the last of the Babenbergers or by Ottakar II of Bohemia. The lower section of this wing once accommodated the imperial kitchen.

Grace and the author at the Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer)

Situated here are the Burgkapelle (the Vienna Boys’ Choir still sings on Sundays at High Mass), a Gothic chapel built in 1449; the Schatzkammer, the Imperial Treasury which holds, among other objects, the Imperial Insignia of the Holy Roman Empire (Reichskleinodien) and that of the Empire of Austria); and the Hofmusikkapelle (the Imperial Music Chapel).

Cheska and Kyle entering the Swiss Gate

Its famous Schweizertor, the red-black Swiss Gate, is the main motif in the silver 20 euro Renaissance commemorative coin.  The gate, designed by Pietro Ferabosco, is one of only a handful of Renaissance monuments in Vienna. It displays the many titles of Emperor Ferdinand I and the insignia of the Order of the Golden Fleece. It is flanked by two soldiers in period attire, a reminder of the unsettled times which saw Vienna besieged by Turkish armies in 1529, as well as the struggles between Protestants and Catholics during the Reformation.

The many titles of Emperor Ferdinand I and the insignia of the Order of the Golden Fleece at the Swiss Gate.

The formerly free-standing Amalienburg (Amalia Residence) wing, across from the Swiss Gate, was named after Empress Amalie Wilhelmine, who used it as her dower residence after the death of husband, Emperor Joseph I.

Grace and Vicky at Amalienburg

Constructed during the 16th century, in the style of the late Renaissance, as the Viennese residence of Emperor Rudolph II, it had already been in use for more than a century. Its last occupant was Empress Elisabeth, whose apartments are today open to the public. The small domed tower has an astronomical clock on its façade.

Astronomical Clock Tower at Amalienburg

The early Baroque Leopoldine Wing (the Leopoldischiner Trakt), connecting the Amalienburg with the Swiss Court, was designed by Italian architect-engineer Filiberto Luchese and built between 1668 and 1680 under Emperor Leopold I. After the Siege of 1683 by the Turks, the Leopold Wing was rebuilt by Giovanni Pietro Tencala with an additional floor installed.

The Leopoldine Wing

During the 18th century, it was occupied by Empress Maria Theresa and, after her death, its magnificent apartments were used as state rooms until the end of the monarchy. The architecture of this wing still bears a connection to the late Renaissance. Since 1946, this wing houses the offices of the Federal President. As well as that of the Amalienburg, the lower section of this wing served as the enormous wine cellar for the Hofburg.

Plaque at the Leopoldine Wing

The Imperial Stables (Stallburg), although not physically connected to the rest of the Hofburg complex, was started in 1559 and were originally built as a residence for Maximilian II, the son of Ferdinand I and the then crown prince. Later, this structure accommodated the art collection (which formed the core of the later Kunsthistorisches Museum from 1889) of Archduke Leopold Wilhelm, the art-inclined brother of Emperor Ferdinand III. The first Austrian parliament sat here in 1848. Only later was it used to house the imperial horses. Today, it is still used by the Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule). The famous Lipizzan stallions, can be seen here daily (except on Mondays), at their morning training.

The Winter Riding School (Winterreitschule), where you can watch performances of Lipizzan stallions, is located across from the Stallburg and was also designed by the Baroque architects Lukas von Hildebrandt and Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach.

Imperial Chancellery Wing (Reichskanzleitrakt)

The Imperial Chancellery Wing Reichskanzleitrakt, across from the Leopold Wing, was originally planned by Baroque architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt and completed in 1730.  It accommodated the Aulic Council (Reichshofrat), the offices of the Imperial Vice Chancellor (Reichsvizekanzler).  After the end of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806, this wing housed the apartments of the Duke of Reichstadt (Napoleon II) and, from the middle of the 19th century, those of Emperor Francis Joseph I.

Attika with Shield of Kaiser Karl VI

On the Chancellery portals are sculptures, representing the Labors of Hercules, by Lorenzo Mattielli. The Kaisertor (Emperor’s Gate), at the central section, gives access to the imperial apartments. The imposing armorial shield of Emperor Charles VI with the double eagle bearing the Austrian shield in the colors of red, white and red and surmounted by the imperial crown, rises from the edge of the roof.

The originally free-standing Imperial Library (Hofbibliothek), housed on the other side of the complex, was founded by Charles VI.  Now called the Prunksaal, it now houses the Austrian National Library (Österreichische Nationalbibliothek). Its construction was begun by Baroque court architect Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach and, after Johann’s death in 1723, finished in 1735 by his son Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach.  This magnificent hall, the most significant part of the Hofburg in artistic terms, contains the precious book collection of Prince Eugene, an enormous ceiling fresco by Daniel Gran, and statues of emperors by Paul Strudel.

The exterior, decorated with Attika figures, was executed, in 1726, by Lorenzo Mattielli who placed a statue of Pallas Athene, riding on a quadriga, above the main entrance. He also situated Atlas, supporting the celestial globe and flanked by Astronomy and Astrology, on the left portion of the roof and, on the opposite side, Gaia with the terrestrial globe, flanked by allegories of Geometry and Geography.

The present Joseph Square (Josephsplatz), one of the most beautiful locations in Vienna, was created when, from 1763 to 1769, Nicolo Pacassi connected the Imperial Library to the other parts of the Hofburg and its other side to St. Augustine’s Church (Augustinerkirche).  At the center of Joseph Square is the equestrian statue of Emperor Joseph II by Franz Anton von Zauner.

On the southeast side of Joseph Square, adjacent to the Imperial Library, is the Baroque Augustinian Wing, so identified for its proximity to the Augustinian Church and Monastery.  The Augustinian Church (Augustinerkirche), used by the Habsburgs as their court church and also for weddings, was where Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth, alias Sisi, were married.

As the Hofburg Palace expanded, the wing became part of it. Because of its structural connections to the Augustinian Monastery, the Archduke Albrecht Palace (formerly Tarouca-de Sylva Palace), home of the Albertina Museum, is also considered part of the Hofburg Palace after the renovation of the Albertina in the 1820s by Joseph Kornhäusel. In early years of the 19th century, Archduke Albrecht and, later, his nephew, Archduke Friedrich, Duke of Teschen, both members of the Habsburg Family, lived in the building.

The Hearts’ Crypt, behind the Loreto side chapel, is a semicircular-shaped annex, separated by an iron door, where 54 hearts of House of Habsburg members are kept in silver urns.

The magnificent  Zeremoniensaal (Ceremonial Hall), built for Emperor Franz II/I by the Belgian architect Louis Montoyer at the beginning of the 19th century, was nicknamed as the “Nose of the Hofburg,” derived from the fact that it, for almost a hundred years, formed a clearly visible protrusion at right angles to the Leopold Wing.

Neue Burg

Having a truly imperial aspect, the Zeremoniensaal, fully integrated into the New Castle (Neue Burg), has an ornate coffered ceiling, 26 crystal chandeliers (which once held 1,300 candles) and 24 Corinthian columns with an artificial marble finish (the surface is not real stone but a form of painted gypsum known as stucco lustro).

Check out “Neue Burg

During an exclusive Ball at the Court held here, Napoleon I asked for the hand of Marie Louise, the daughter of Emperor Franz II/I and, during a traditional Maundy Thursday ceremony, Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth invited twelve poor old men and women to have their feet washed.

The St. Michael’s Wing, originally planned by Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach, was built from 1889 to 1893, utilizing a slightly altered plan of Ferdinand Kirschner. It serves as the connection between the Winter Riding School and the Imperial Chancellery Wing.

The Redoutensaele (derived from the French word “wikt:redoute” meaning an elegant masked ball), a 17th-century opera house converted into the beautiful dance and concert halls by Maria Theresia, became the setting for a cultivated style of entertainment. Its original plans were drawn up by Jean Nicolas Jadot de Ville-Issey (de), while the external facades are the work of Nicolò Pacassi and Franz Anton Hillebrandt (de).

Johann Strauss served as musical director to the court for the balls held at the Redoutensaele, and the audience was treated to music by Joseph HaydnNicolo Paganini and Franz Liszt and, in 1814, the premiere of Beethoven‘s 8th Symphony took place there. Over the centuries, in line with changing tastes, various modifications have been made in the balls. On November 27, 1992 the whole wing with the Redoutensaele was seriously damaged by fire and the reconstruction and faithful restoration work performed lasted five years. The Redoutensaele reopened in 1998 and, since then, became part of the Hofburg Congress Center.

Fiaker  (Horse-Drawn Carriage) inside the Hofburg

Hofburg Palace: Michaelerplatz 1 (Michaelerkuppel), 1010 Vienna, Austria. Tel: +43 1 5337570. Open 9 AM-6 PM.

How to Get There:

Underground: U3 Herrengasse

Tram: 1, 2, 71, D Burgring

Bus: 2A, 3A Hofburg

HOP ON HOP OFF: Red Line: Kunsthistorisches Museum / Heldenplatz

Kunsthistorisches Museum – Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities (Vienna, Austria)

Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities

From the Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection, a change of flooring and presentation, gave way to the delights of Ancient Greece and Rome with my entry into Gallery 10 and its Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities.

The 2,500 objects in the collection, some on permanent display, span a period of more than three millennia and range from Bronze Age ceramics of Cyprus dating from the 3rd millennium B.C. to early Medieval finds.

Check out “Kunsthistorisches Museum

This collection, one of the best of its kind, covers three main areas in a beautifully atmospheric gallery layout – the unique and spectacular antique cameos and gemstones; the treasure troves dating from the period of the great migrations and the early Middle Ages (such as the golden Treasure of Nagy Szent Miklós); and the collection of vases (with such masterpieces as the Brygos Cup).

Votive Statue of a Man from Cyprus

Among the other highlights of the collection are the larger-than-life Votive Statue of a Man from Cyprus, the Amazonian Sarcophagus, the bronze tablet with the famous Senatus consultum de Bacchanalibus, the Theseus Mosaic from Salzburg and the Youth from the Magdalensberg, to name only a few.

Sarcophagus with Fighting Amazons

Sarcophagus of the Muses

Sarcophagus with a Scene of Abduction of Persephone by Hades

However, though a lot of thought has been clearly put by the curators into how the items were displayed in this collection, surprisingly there was little English information for such wonderful displays and we needed an guidebook or an audio guide to really appreciate what we’re seeing.

Youth from the Magdalensberg

At Gallery 11, we saw a huge original mosaic in the floor. Taken from a 4th century villa near Salzburg, it tells one of the versions of the story of Ariadne and Theseus (of Minotaur-slaying fame).

Marble Statue of Discobolus (2nd century AD)

Torso of the Javelin Bearer Doryphoros (2nd Century AD)

As we walked toward the entrance portal of Gallery 13, we were welcomed by a statue of a majestic Emperor Vespasian, his head is from 70 A.D. and his torso from sometime in the first century.

Gallery 13 (Busts)

This bust gallery, possessing an eerie quality enhanced by the subtle and varied lighting and shadows cast on the marbled floor, has a delightful display of busts, each on its own high column. We also saw mummy portraits placed on mummies in Rome-influenced Egypt in the second century AD.

Gallery 14 (Greek Vases)

Gallery 14 features real Greek vases and other ceramics (not the kind from souvenir shops in Athens and Kos).  The “Kabinetts,” leading off the rooms, each focus on a special topic such as Cypriot ceramics from the Bronze and Iron Ages, Etruscan Art, etc..

Gallery 14 (Greek Vases)

The magically dark Gallery 15 features bronze statues of the gods and other figures of mythology, each piece lit with pools of light that makes a dramatic impression, plus Roman tableware, jewelry, decorated oil lamps and fibulae (brooches for fastening clothing).

Marble Sphinx from Roman Egypt (150 – 200 AD)

The darkly lit Gallery 16, with wall cabinets and spotlights, features brightly-colored miniature reliefs (cameos) and engraved gems from Rome which were used as signet rings, pendants and other adornments. The room also features the famous Gemma Augustea, a large cut onyx stone, from 9-12 A.D., honoring the Emperor Augustus.

Spot-lit cabinets at Gallery 17 house a wide range of Roman and early Germanic jewelry and other items of bronze, silver and gold coming from various finds, such as Nagy Szent Miklós (in modern-day Romania) or Zalesie (modern-day Poland).

Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities: Raised Ground Floor, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Maria Theresien-Platz, 1010 Vienna. Tel: +43 1 525 24- 4902. E-mail: info.ansa@khm. Open Tuesdays – Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM, Thursdays, 10 AM – 9 PM.

Kunsthistorisches Museum – Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection (Vienna, Austria)

Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection

The Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, among the world’s most important collections of Egyptian antiquities, is located in Galleries 1 to 9 and consists of  more than 17,000 objects that date from a period of almost four thousand years, from the Egyptian Pre-Dynastic and Early Dynastic periods (ca. 3500 – 4000 BC) to the early Christian era. Geographically, their origins range from Egypt, Nubia, the eastern Mediterranean and Mesopotamia to the Arabian Peninsula.

Check out “Kunsthistorisches Museum

A pair of Egyptian monolithic columns at Gallery 1

In the early 19th century, avid interest in collecting Egyptian antiquities began in Europe and there was an emancipation of the genre when Napoleon invaded Egypt (1798-1799), resulting in unparalleled esteem for Egyptian culture. The focus of the Near Eastern Collection is on artifacts from the ancient culture of southern Arabia.

Display of Egyptian sarcophagi

Among its highlights are the richly decorated Offering Chapel of Ka-ni-nisut from the Old Kingdom, numerous sarcophagi and coffins, animal mummies, examples of the Book of the Dead, grave stelae, divine figures, objects of daily life (clothing, cosmetic articles, etc.), masterpieces of sculpture (Reserve Head from Giza, etc.), facial stelae from southern Arabia and a depiction of a lion from the Ischtar Gate in Babylon.

Here is the turbulent historical timeline of the collection:

  • Around 1560, an emissary of the Austrian imperial family purchased, in Constantinople, the kneeling figure of Gem-nef-hor-bak, thus laying the foundation for a collection of Aegyptiaca.
  • In the 18th century, the few Egyptian antiquities already in Habsburg possession were held in the coin collection and cabinet of antiquities.
  • In 1821, physician Ernst August Burghart considerably expanded the holdings of Egyptian artifacts by purchasing objects in Egypt.
  • At mid- 18th century, Anton Ritter von Laurin, Austrian general consul in Alexandria from 1824 to 1849, received significant gifts of Egyptian antiquities. He is also credited for the discovery of the magnificent stone sarcophagus of Nes-shu-tefnut.
  • In 1869, three original Egyptian monolithic columns excavated in Alexandria were given as a gift to Emperor Franz Joseph I.
  • In 1881, Crown Prince Rudolf, the son of Emperor Franz Joseph, acquired numerous Egyptian artifacts during his travels to Egypt.
  • Several years later, the collection received a generous gift, from the Egyptian government, of coffins and coffin ensembles found in a a so-called cachette in Thebes.
  • Towards the end of the 19th century, the Miramar collection of almost 2,000 objects from the possession of Emperor Maximilian I of Mexico was added to the inventory of the imperial collections.
  • Between 1882 and 1895, Eduard Glaser undertook four expeditions to Yemen, collecting Old South Arabian inscriptions that remain of fundamental importance for the study of ancient Yemen.
  • In the first half of the 20th century, more additions were the result of archaeological excavations in Egypt and Nubia financed by the Austrian Academy of Sciences.
  • Between 1912 and 1929, excavations on the rocky plateau of Giza unearthed artifacts from the Old Kingdom such as the famous Reserve Head, numerous tomb statues, inscribed and reliefed architectural components such as false doors and architraves, coffins of stone and wood, Canopic jars, jewelry, vessels of various materials, etc.
  • In 1914, private financing made possible the purchase of the Offering Chapel of Ka-ni-nisut from the Egyptian Antiquities Service.

The small but significant collection, structured in four large areas (funerary cult, cultural history, sculpture and relief and the development of writing), take you through ancient Egyptian life, culture and religion.  They are housed in magnificently decorated rooms following an Egyptianesque design, part of the original plan of architects Gottfried Semper and Karl von Hasenauer, offering an immersive experience with the walls, ceilings, columns and even the door arches of several rooms matching the Egyptian topic in terms of design and decoration.

Gallery 1

In Gallery 1, instead of the marble pillars, the architects reused the three, more than 6 m. high, original Egyptian monolithic columns from excavations in Alexandria, to support the ceiling.  On display are mummies, sarcophagi, scarabs, coffins and canopic jars (where the internal organs were stored for the afterlife). Particularly impressive was the giant sarcophagus of Pa-di-pep from the late-period 26th Dynasty.

Murals on paper, which lend a special character to the large first hall, are copies of mural paintings from the tomb of Prince Chnum-hetep at Beni Hassan in Middle Egypt and were made by Ernst Weidenbach for the Vienna World’s Fair of 1873.

Gallery 2 houses the actual Offering Chapel of Ka-ni-nisut (a high-ranking civil servant from around the 4th/5th dynasty, some 4,500 years ago), a mastaba or large tomb which was shipped over from its location in Giza in 1914. You can go into the chamber.

Ushabti at Gallery 3

Gallery 3 has a collection of ushabti which were left in tombs to take on manual tasks for the deceased in the afterlife. They sometimes also included model overseers to manage the laborers.

Gallery 5

Gallery 5, dedicated to funerary literature, displays scrolls, wall inscriptions and similar containing the spells and texts required to ensure safe passage into the afterlife including an original papyrus showing a pictorial guide to the underworld.

Gallery 4, leading off Gallery 5, covers magic and gods. On display are various mummified animals, including a cat, crocodile, fish and snake. There’s even a tiny coffin built for a shrew (a divine animal representing the sky god Horus).

Gallery 7

Gallery 6 displays clothes, pottery and jewelry from the time while Galleries 7 to 9 displays various busts, statues, temple items and similar. In Gallery 7 are false doors that acted as symbolic gateways between the present and the hereafter plus the unusually lifelike and chubby statue of Sebek-em-saf from 1700 BC..

Sarcophagus of Nesshutefnut

In Gallery 9, there’s the unfinished 2nd century BC sarcophagus of priest Pa-nehem-isis whose every surface is inscribed with symbols.

Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection: Raised Ground Floor, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Maria Theresien-Platz, 1010 Vienna. Tel: +43 1 525 24- 4902. E-mail: info.ansa@khm. Open Tuesdays – Sundays, 10 AM – 6 PM, Thursdays, 10 AM – 9 PM.