Manga Public Market and Lic Lic Fastfood & Sutukil (Tagbilaran City, Bohol)

Manga Public Market

Manga Public Market

After viewing the sunset (and the tectonic uplift along its coast) at the Punta Cruz Watchtower in Maribojoc, we all head over to Tagbilaran City where we were to experience dampa-style dining by first buying fresh seafood at the Manga Public Market (below the old city hall along the road to Cortes) and then have it cooked any way we want it (called paluto or “have it cooked”), for a minimal fee, at a nearby eatery for our dinner. Just after 4 PM, fishermen who have returned, deposit their daily seafood catch at the market.

Parrotfish

Parrotfish

Upon arrival, we wandered the aisles of the market, checking out what’s on offer. We found tables piled high with fresh seafood delicacies such as lapu-lapu (grouper), baby sea eels, kitang/samaral (rabbit fish), sea cucumbers, bottles of fresh sea urchin roe, five kinds of seashells,  squid, crabs, octopus, etc.. Josue picked out lapu-lapu, squid, some kinason shellfish and fish.  While he was doing so, we bought some crispy, ready-to-eat chicharon (PhP50 per 100 grams) as pasalubong for our loved ones back home.

Octopus

Octopus

After Josue paid for the seafood, we all headed, across the street, to the Lic Lic Fastfood & Sutukil (sugba, tuwa, kilaw) which is about 20 m. down the road, towards Tagbilaran City.  In the kitchen, at the back of the restaurant, Josue clearly and precisely explained to the cook how we liked your meal prepared.

Crispy chicharon

Crispy chicharon

The fish was charcoal grilled, the lapu-lapu was prepared in sweet and sour sauce, the shellfish in some soup with loads of ginger while the squid was stewed in its own ink (which intensifies its seafood flavor).  We also requested for some pinakbet and steamed rice.

Our paluto

Our paluto

As this is a very basic restaurant, we didn’t expect silverware, crystal wine glasses, exceptional service or amazing ambiance. This place is all about the deliciously prepared food we partook of after our Abatan River Firefly Tour.  We weren’t disappointed and we returned to our resort with our tummies full. Truly, a must-do, one-of-a-kind dining experience in Bohol.

Feasting on seafood at Lic Lic Fastfood

Feasting on seafood at Lic Lic Fastfood

Manga Public Market: Carlos P. Garcia Ave. North, Manga District, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol

Lic Lic Fastfood & Sutukil: Carlos P. Garcia Ave. Northa District, Tagbilaran City, 6300 Bohol.  Mobile numbers: (0929) 394-6803 and (0910) 301-2139.

Punta Cruz Watchtower (Maribojoc, Bohol)

 

Earthquake-damaged Punta Cruz Watchtower

Earthquake-damaged Punta Cruz Watchtower

From Hinagdanan Cave, we returned to our airconditioned coaster for the 22 min./21.7-km. drive, via Carlos P. Garcia Ave and Tagbilaran North Road, to Maribojoc where we were to watch the sunset at the Spanish-era Punta Cruz Watchtower, located at the most westerly point of Bohol.

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Built in 1796 as a defense against pirates, the Castillo de San Vicente, as it was called then, has ramparts shaped in a perfect isosceles triangle over which rises a short hexagonal tower.  From its windows at the top, coast watchers can see as far as Cebu, Siquijor, and Mindanao.

Plaque installed by National Historical Intitute

Plaque installed by National Historical Intitute

Maribojoc was severely hit by the 7.2 magnitude earthquake on October 15, 2013.  Many houses were destroyed or damaged and its historical Spanish Church of the Holy Cross was completely destroyed.  The watchtower also sustained significant damage, especially on its upper portion. Inscriptions on top of the main entrance were destroyed.

The viewing deck and cross

The viewing deck and cross

Sunset at Punta Cruz

Sunset at Punta Cruz

Before the earthquake, the watchtower and the sunset was the only thing that appealed to visitors.  Today, Punta Cruz watchtower is no longer directly along the sea. From the view deck in front of its time-weathered wooden cross, we saw that the old coastline has receded some 50 to 100 m., a result of 400 hectares of sea-bed being lifted more than a meter due to tectonic uplift.

New coastline at the left

New coastline at the left

New coastline at the right

New coastline at the right

Bohol actually added more land to its area when the water permanently receded as wider coastlines were exposed. The high tide mark had changed such that the tidal flat (hunasan) dried out and the shoreline widened.  No longer submerged by seawater, exposed brain corals and branching coral recruits within the Punta Cruz Marine Sanctuary started bleaching.

Our media group

Our media group

How to Get There: From the Tagbilaran Integrated Bus Terminal in Dao, take a bus going to Tubigon.  These pass along Punta Cruz.  Upon dropping off at Punta Cruz, walk down, for about 500 m., to the watch tower.

Hinagdanan Cave (Dauis, Bohol)

Hinagdanan Cave

Hinagdanan Cave

After our late lunch and short rest at our resort, we were back on the road again on our airconditioned coach, making a short 13-km./15-min. drive to the next town of Dauis where we made a stopover at Hinagdanan Cave.  Upon arrival at the parking lot, we first noticed a number of hawker stalls selling T-shirts, trinkets and other souvenirs, at the end of which is the ticket booth where visitors pay a small entrance fee to enter and explore the cave.

The entrance booth

The entrance booth

Accompanied by a local guide, we entered this cave via an unbelievably small opening with steep concrete stairs (with railings installed), through which only one person at a time can descend or ascend.  The cave was quite dark, slippery and wet, not really recommended for elderly or those with disabilities.  Its single, 100 m. long cavernous chamber is studded with stalactites,  stalagmites and other rock formations typically found in limestone caves.

The concrete stairs leading down to the cave

The concrete stairs leading down to the cave

According to our guide, Hinagdanan Cave was accidentally discovered when the owner of the area discovered the hole (now a skylight) while clearing the decaying branches on his land. The owner then threw a stone into the hole. Hearing a splash, he realized that a pool existed underground. He then built a ladder to get into the cave. Later, they named the cave Hinagdanan, meaning “laddered.”

Stalactites hanging from the cave ceiling

Stalactites hanging from the cave ceiling

Our guide was quite funny and witty with his scripted jokes (his delivery though made it funny). He was also proficient and trained enough to use a DSLR camera, knowing all the spots for nice pictures, the correct camera settings when taking pictures inside that dark cave, all the angles and the f/stops to make sure you get them.  We accepted his offer to take our pictures, using Joy’s camera. He took some really good shots inside.

Grotesque rock formations

Grotesque rock formations

If you’ve seen larger caves like I did, then you’ll probably not be impressed with this fairly small cave (maybe a maximum of 30 persons can be inside at the same time) as it wasn’t really grand or magnificent in terms of size.  However, it is exciting and interesting enough for those who are not really into caving but would still want to experience going inside a cave.

The beautiful cave pool

The beautiful cave pool

Inside is an picturesque, underground spring-fed swimming pool, with a depth of 15 ft. in the middle, illuminated by two natural skylights. Since it has an ocean exit, when it’s high tide, water seeps into the pool and raises its water level.  The owner also placed lights inside the cave so visitors don’t end up fumbling around. The cave and the water are cool and there was no strange smell inside the cave as there are no bats, just swallows.

Our media group

Our media group

I have visited this cave some 11 years ago and the cave still looked the same, minus the guides and souvenir shops that have mushroomed in the vicinity. Just like a number of our Philippine geologic treasures, some of its rock formations have, over the years, been vandalized or marked up with graffiti.

The souvenir stalls above ground

The souvenir stalls above ground

Hinagdanan Caves: Brgy. Bingag, Dauis, Bohol. Admission: PhP30.

How to Get There: Hinagdanan Cave is located 10 kms. from Tagbilaran City and 2.5 kms. from Dauis town proper, near Pangalo Island Nature Resort.

Pamilacan Island (Baclayon, Bohol)

Pamilacan Island

Pamilacan Island

It was now Day 2 of our 3-day media familiarization tour of Bohol.  After a very early breakfast at Panglao Bluewater Resort, we were slated to do some dolphin watching off Pamilacan Island, followed by lunch at Balicasag Island.  The tide was still low and our large motorized outrigger boat was anchored some distance off.  To get on board her, we took turns riding a tandem kayak until all were on board.  The sun was already up in the sky when we got underway.

On our way

On our way

The island’s name was derived from the word meaning “nesting place of manta rays.”  However, it has also been interpreted to to have been derived from the word pamilac, a harpoon (large hooked implement) used to capture manta rays, dolphins, whale sharks and Bryde’s whales. Under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Baclayon, it is situated 14 kms. (8.7 mi) south of the Bohol mainland.

Our spotter scanning the horizon for dolphins or whales

Our spotter scanning the horizon for dolphins or whales

The waters around the island are home to at least 11 species of dolphins and whales, including the playful Spinner Dolphins, Bryde’s whales and the gigantic Sperm Whale. Blue Whales are sometimes seen in the early months of the year. The whale watching season begins in March until the onset of the rainy season in June or July.

Soon to make landfall

Soon to make landfall

The 15 to 20 m. long boat we rode on was possibly a former canter, a boat formerly used for whale hunting.  These have been refitted with seats and roofing for a comfortable ride for 7 to 10 passengers who want to go whale or dolphin watching.  A skilled, elderly spotter, who is also an excellent guide, soon took his place at our boat’s bow, scanning the horizon for any whales or dolphins. Resident dolphins and small whales can be found all year round but sightings are dependent on weather and sea conditions.  Just like my first try in 2003, we were unlucky to find any of them.

The island's immaculately white sand beach

Footprints along the island’s immaculately white sand beach

We made landfall at the island’s beautiful white sand beach located on its northwest side.  Upon landing, we were welcomed by members of the island’s small and closely knit fishing community which has around 200 families living in 3 sitios – one facing Baclayon, another amid an island and a third on the southern coast.  Their main livelihoods now concentrate on dolphin and whale watching tours and subsistence fishing. In the past, it also included whale, dolphin and manta ray hunting. However, with the strict enforcement of marine life preservation laws in the country, this practice was stopped. Their houses, though, are still adorned with jaws and bones of these marine mammals.

The island's barangay

The island’s barangay

When we arrived, a table (with red tablecloth) and chairs were set up under a shady palm tree, beside some picnic sheds.  A merienda of sliced camote (sweet potatoes), either steamed, caramelized or fried, plus rice cakes and corn coffee were prepared for us. The latter looked and tasted like your good old caffeinated coffee but is said to be healthier.

A merienda of camote, rice cake and corn coffee

A merienda of camote, rice cake and corn coffee

After this filling repast, I together with Czarina, Euden, Joy, Kathleen and Lara went on a snorkeling tour on 3 small boats, each with a local boatman who paddled for us.  Czarina joined me on one boat.  The island’s wide flat reef, now a marine sanctuary, offers good snorkelling and diving (it has some great dive sites such as Dakit-Dakit).

Dining al fresco along the beach

Dining al fresco along the beach

After some great snorkeling over coral gardens, we returned to shore early as Czarina wasn’t feeling good.  Back on dry land, I explored the nearby Spanish-era fort which, in the past, served as a watch station for pirates, intruders and other enemies. Triangular in shape and probably constructed in the 19th century, it was made with rubble while cut coral blocks lined its portal and windows. The three corners of the structure were supported by round buttresses.

The triangular, Spanish-era fort

The triangular, Spanish-era fort

Another view of the fort

Another view of the fort

Inside are embedded trusses and a triangular pillar in the middle, indication that the fort may have had a second floor, probably made of wood. A large hardwood cross, with an 18oos date carved on it, once stood near the fort but is now housed in a nearby modern chapel. The fort was said to have formed a network with the towns of Baclayon, Loay and Tagbilaran.

View of the fort from another angle

View of the fort from another angle

The ladies were already back from their snorkeling trip when I returned.  Soon enough, we were back on board our boat for the second half of our island hopping expedition – Balicasag Island.  The waters were already choppy when we left and our boat had to travel slowly as the waves kept pounding the boat.  Soon a number of us (including me), especially the already ill Czarina, were already feeling seasick and, since our destination was still a long way off and it was already way past noontime, it was decided to just return to our resort.  Anyway, I have been to Balicasag Island 11 years ago, going around it on foot and snorkeling its coral gardens.  However, I felt sorry for those who haven’t been there. Oh well, you can’t win them all.

The triangular pillar in the middle of the fort

The triangular pillar in the middle of the fort

How to Get There: Pamilacan Island is located about 20 kms. southeast of Tagbilaran City, 23 kms. east of Balicasag Island and 11 kms. (a 45-min. pumpboat ride) offshore from the town. Pumpboats can be hired at Baclayon port.

Arrival in Panglao (Bohol)

Panglao Bluewater Resort

Panglao Bluewater Resort

Come evening, after the end of our Bohol Countryside Tour, it was now time for us to check in at the 5.5-hectare, extremely quiet and refreshing Panglao Bluewater Resort.

Check out “Bohol Media Familiarization Tour

Mr. Pete Dacuycuy (in white shirt) with the media group

Mr. Pete Dacuycuy (in white shirt) with the media group

Our home for the three days and two nights we were to stay in Bohol, all 7 members of the media team, plus 3 Department of Tourism personnel and our tour operator and ground handler Ms. Edna M. Faustino, were to stay in some of the 54 elegantly appointed, spacious, very Zen and modern airconditioned guestrooms.

Check out “Resort Review: Panglao Bluewater Resort

The Premier De Luxe Room I stayed in (118)

The Premier De Luxe Room I stayed in (118)

On arrival, we were welcomed by Rooms Division manager Mr. Leo P. Go and resort consultant Mr. Pete Dacuycuy and offered welcome lemon grass drinks and cold towels while waiting for our Premier De Luxe rooms to be ready. The ladies all stayed at the ground-level Poolside Wing while the guys all stayed at first-floor Poolview rooms. Our breakfast, lunch and dinner was at its full-service Aplaya Restaurant

Check out “Restaurant Review: Aplaya Restaurant

Panglao Bluewater Resort: Bluewater Rd, Sitio Daurong, Brgy. Danao, Panglao, 6340 Bohol.  Tel: (038) 416-0702 and (038) 416-0695 to 96. Fax: (038) 416-0697.  Email: panglao@bluewater.com.ph. Website: www.bluewaterpanglao.com.ph.  Manila sales office: Rm. 704, Cityland Herrera Tower, Rufino cor. Valera Sts., Salcedo Village, 1227 Makati City, Metro Manila.  Tel: (632) 817-5751 and (632) 887-1348.  Fax: (632) 893-5391.

Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (Carmen, Bohol)

Chocolate Hill Adventure Park (CHAP)

Chocolate Hill Adventure Park (CHAP)

After our delightful Loboc River Cruise, we all returned to our airconditioned coaster for the highlight of our Bohol Countryside Tour – the Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAPS) which is owned and run by Camanayon Hill Development Corp.

The park entrance

The park entrance

Situated in Carmen, it is the latest eco-tourism and adrenaline pumping adventure park in Bohol. The sprawling 4-hectare park offers thrilling adventure activities like hiking trails, tree top adventures and the famous, exciting  and very unique bike zip line dubbed as “The Rush.”  The 37-km. drive, via the Loay Interior Rd., took about 40 mins. and we arrive at CHAPS by 4 PM.

The wooden bridge leading to the receiving area

The wooden bridge leading to the receiving area

From the park entrance, we first crossed a short wooden bridge, over a natural pond, to a main receiving hall that houses the reception desk in the middle,  a small open-air restaurant  (Cuisina ni Tesai) offering Boholano dishes plus some souvenir stalls on the left and an events place on the right.

Cusina ni Tesai and souvenir shops

Cusina ni Tesai and souvenir shops

The events place

The events place

Here, Josue took a head count on those who would avail of the adventure packages. However, Joy, Czarina, Julia, Lara and yours truly were here for “The Rush” – the bike zip which takes biking to another level.

Hiking up the wooden boardwalk

Hiking up the wooden boardwalk

From the pavilion, we all hiked along a wooden boardwalk that meanders over a brook. Along the hiking trail, we passed by a serpentarium that houses a few snakes (python, green Oriental whip snake, etc.) found around the area during the construction of the park plus some sugar gliders and hedgehogs.

The Serpentarium

The Serpentarium

We made a stopover at a cottage where a nurse checked our blood pressure (mine was 140/90). Lara had to back out for reasons I will not divulge.  We were also given a briefing on what to expect on the bike zip.

Ladies at the briefing cottage

Ladies at the briefing cottage

After climbing all 268 steps (including crossing a hanging bridge 4 at a time) along the hiking trail, we were already a little out of breath when we reached the viewing deck.

Crossing a hanging bridge

Crossing a hanging bridge

Since the massive magnitude 7.2 earthquake of October 15, 2013 destroyed parts of the old viewing deck (as well as a few of the 1,776 Chocolate Hills) in the town of Carmen, the one at CHAP’s became the de facto viewing deck (the hills are much farther away though) while the old one, which has a much grander view, is being rebuilt.

Czarina, the author, Joy, Kath and Euden at the viewing deck

Czarina, the author, Joy, Kath and Euden at the viewing deck

The Bike Zip is a 275-m. (550 m. round trip) long zip line, 150 ft. above the ground, using a mountain bike to cross from one hill to another. After all suiting up with helmet, harness and hairnet (?), we all climbed the stairs going up to the tower. The bicycle, minus the rubber tires, is securely joined to the zip line so there’s no problem balancing. All we had to do was pedal and feel the ride.

The bike zip tower

The bike zip tower

I was supposed to go first and I was already mounted on the bike and ready to go when I suddenly got chills and almost chickened out.  I have somehow conquered my fear of heights, having gone ziplining a number of times, but seeing how high I was from the ground, the scenario seeing the hills high up in the sky made me shudder.

Getting ready to hit the zip

Getting ready to hit the zip

I allowed Joy to have first crack at it and, as soon as she made it to the other side, I gathered the courage and followed suit.  The ride was scary at first as I had this feeling that, at any moment, my bike would fall off from the zip line. It took some time to for me to feel at ease with the ride but, once I got the feel for it, the ride slowly became enjoyable and exciting.

Traffic along the bike zipline

Traffic along the bike zipline

The ride truly gave me a different experience of seeing the famous Chocolate Hills.  They say that the windier and rainier it is, the more exciting the bike ride is. Due to the rush of emotions, now I know why they call it “The Rush.” It was truly an exciting, one-of-a-kind experience.  After Joy and I, Czarina and Julia followed our lead.  After our bike zip, we interviewed Mr. Jing E. Velaso, Managing Director of CHAP on the parks’s current facilities and future plans (including overnight accommodations).

Experiencing the rush

Experiencing the rush

The park has a 9-course rope challenge adventure course – “Islands in the Sky,” “Burma Loops,” “Burma Planks,” “Hanging Bridge” (2 stages), “Earthquake,” “Vine Walk,” “Jacob’s Walk,” “Tyrolean” and  the “Zipline.” You  get to “Zipline” upon completing half of the course and then the “Ttyrolean” traverse for the rest of the course. Upon completion of all courses, you rappel your way down.  These trails test one’s strength, balance, endurance, strategy and patience.

Media team with CHAP Managing Director Mr. Jing E. Velasco (center)

Media team with CHAP Managing Director Mr. Jing E. Velasco (center)

Rates: The Rush (Bike Zip): PhP400, The Snake Ladder (Tree Top RCA): PhP200, The Pentagon (Tree Top RCB): PhP350, Gymnaskids (Child Rope Course): PhP300, Eco-Hiking Trail: PhP200,Chicken & Fish Feeding: PhP50.

I survived

I survived

Chocolate Hills Adventure Park (CHAP): Sitio Camanayon, Brgy. Buenos Aires, Carmen, Bohol. Mobile number: (0917) 304-1341  and (0932) 667-7098.  Email: chocolatehills_adventurepark@yahoo.com.  Entrance Fee: PhP60. Open daily, 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM.

How to Get There: CHAPS can be reached in an hour and a half by riding a bus or van from Dao Terminal in Tagbilaran City.

Loboc River Cruise (Bohol)

Floating restaurant of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

Floating restaurant of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

Upon arrival at Loboc, we all crossed over to the other bank of the Loboc River, via the Alfonso L. Uy Promenade, to get to the Loboc Tourism Complex where the floating restaurants are docked.  It has been 11 years since the last time I had my first Loboc River Cruise with my family and I was curious as to what’s new with the cruise.

The Loboc Tourism Complex - a tourist attraction by itself

The Loboc Tourism Complex – a tourist attraction by itself

This time, I now notice so many improvements in the area. Well for one the floating restaurant terminal is now concreted, there are now lamp posts along the river banks (for night cruises), helpful directional signage and an orderly parking lot, the restrooms are clean and the complex was wi-fi enabled.  This made the complex an exceptional tourist attraction by itself.

Floating restaurant terminal

Floating restaurant terminal

When we got to the boat terminal, we were all whisked to the waiting double-hulled floating restaurant of Village Floating Resto & Cruises.  The setup this time was different from our past typical boat tour.   Instead of different tables for different groups of guests, a long, flower-bedecked table was instead set up with green table cloth and fresh buco in the shell for each one of us.

Being serenaded with bossa nova songs

Being serenaded with bossa nova songs

Our lunch was also to be something different, not the typical buffet.  When our boat got underway, we were first entertained by a local band with a versatile and talented female lead vocalist singing bossa nova songs for our listening pleasure.  This got us in the mood for lunch, however late it was.

Our media group

Our media group

The food soon started coming in, starting with the appetizers – fish kinilaw, puso salad and summer rolls.  This was followed by law-oi soup.  The main course that followed next was out of the ordinary – a humongous boodle feast, to be eaten kamayan-style

Appetizers – fish kinilaw, puso salad and summer rolls

Appetizers – fish kinilaw, puso salad and summer rolls

Fruit skewers, puto cuchinta, ube pannacotta, banancue

Fruit skewers, puto cuchinta, ube pannacotta, bananacue

It consisted of pork humba, chicken inasal, sisig-stuffed squid, grilled vegetables, pinais na isda and corn on the cob plus steamed rice, all laid out on banana leaves.  Our delightful lunch was capped by a series of desserts consisting of ube pannacotta, bananacue, puto cuchinta and fruit skewers.

Our boodle feast

Our boodle feast

In about an hour, our boat reached the endpoint of our 2-km. cruise – Busay (or Tontonan) Waterfalls.  These series of low waterfalls, used to generate electricity for the town, drops 15 m. in 2 stages.  We were already done with lunch when docked near a floating wooden platform with rope railing.  Alighting here, we had the luck of seeing a rare rainbow beneath a nearby small waterfall.

Busay Falls

Busay Falls

The author at the floating viewing platform

The author at the floating viewing platform

The rainbow uderneath a small waterfall

The rainbow uderneath a small waterfall

After a few minutes at the viewing deck, we again boarded our boat and, when all were accounted for, turned around for our return trip upriver.  Along the river, the boat stopped at a small bamboo and nipa jetty decorated with banderitas and colorful guitars hung on the rafters. Here, some locals, dressed in apple-green filipiniana outfits, provided us a culture show, dancing the kuradang and the tinikling.

A kuradang dance performed for us at a riverbank jetty

A kuradang dance performed for us at a riverbank jetty

Tinikling dancers in action

Tinikling dancers in action

Continuing on our return cruise, our band, not to be outdone, also regaled us with a modern dance number. Soon enough, we back at the boat terminal by 3:30 PM, totally refreshed by this showcase of Boholono hospitality, cuisine and culture and quite ready for our next adventure.

The band and staff of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

The band and staff of Village Floating Resto & Cruises

Village Floating Resto & Cruises: Brgy. Valladolid, Loboc, Bohol. Tel: (038) 537-9223  and (038) 501-8078. Mobile number: (0928) 507-7627. E-mail: villagefloatingresto@yahoo.com.

Church of St. Peter the Apostle and the Alfonso L. Uy Promenade (Loboc, Bohol)

From the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary, we returned to our airconditioned coach and proceeded, via the Tagbilaran City-Corella-Sikatuna-Loboc Rd., on our 14.5-km./15- min. drive to Loboc where we were to have a late lunch while cruising the Loboc River.  We arrived at the Loboc Tourism Complex by 1:30 PM. Across the complex is the Church of St. Peter the Apostle, the second oldest church in Bohol and its first declared National Cultural Treasure. Built in 1602 by Fr. de Torres, it was destroyed by fire in 1638.  The present church was built in 1734.

The church facade 11 years ago

The church facade 11 years ago

The ruined facade

The ruined facade

The church I saw was just a broken shell of what I saw 11 years ago as the church sustained major damage during the devastating October 15, 2013, 7.2 magnitude earthquake. Its Early Renaissance façade was completely destroyed while major damage could be seen at the lateral walls and ceiling of the church as well as its conventThe whole church has been fenced in as its collapsed middle section cannot be entered at all. The pipe organ was said to among the elements of the church that were spared from damage.

View of the church from the side

View of the church from the side

The collapsed middle section

The collapsed middle section

Its separate 21-m. high, 4-storey octagonal stone bell tower, located about 30 m. (98 ft.) across the street from the church, also collapsed leaving less than half the tower standing. Years ago, the timely objection by the Lobocnons prevented the bell tower’s destruction when a huge concrete bridge, not justified by any traffic, was being built.

The bell tower prior to the earthquake

The bell tower prior to the earthquake

What remains of the collapsed bell tower

What remains of the collapsed bell tower

At that time, the townspeople had expressed their apprehension that driving the piles to support the ramp, from the superstructure to ground level, might destroy the church, the belfry or both.The project was thus discontinued and this unfinished white elephant of a bridge, that stuck out like a sore thumb in the town center, has somehow been put to good use, having been converted, in 2008, into the Alfonso L. Uy Promenade.  Sadly, what man failed to destroy, nature almost succeeded in doing.

The Alfonso L. Uy Promenade

The Alfonso L. Uy Promenade

The unfinished bridge today

The unfinished bridge today

To turn the bridge into a promenade,  Arch. German Torero,  a National Commission on Culture and the Arts (NCCA)-accredited architect, was tasked to carefully design it so that it will blend with the design of the nearby church and bell tower. Some PhP4 million in corporate funds was also spent to install tiles, build a stairway on the Poblacion side and adding enhancements. Today, the promenade, now a tourist attraction, is used as a park as well as viewing platform to see the damaged (and, hopefully, soon to be repaired) church and bell tower

Church of St. Monica (Alburquerque, Bohol)

The Church of St. Monica

The Church of St. Monica

From the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary, we again boarded our airconditioned coaster and made our second stopover, along the highway, at the Church of St.. Monica in Alburquerque (nicknamed by the Boholanos as “Albur”).

The pasadizo (arcade) connecting the church with the convent

The pasadizo (arcade) connecting the church with the convent

Situated on a low knoll, this church was first built of wood and bamboo in 1842.  Later, it was replaced by a larger and sturdier church in 1856.  The present coralstone church, started in 1885 by Fr. Manuel Muro (1882 to 1896), was continued by his successor in 1896 and completed during the 1920s and 30s.

The convent

The convent

The church’s entrance is shaded by a portico (actually the choir loft) from which a stair leads to a Moorish-inspired square bell tower with bells dating to 1867.  It also has arched openings and a decorative band on the edges of the pediment.  The side walls are supported by buttresses.

Butress supporting the side wall

A buttress supporting the side wall

The convent, built with sont, wood and, on the second floor, with, tabique (wattle and daub) walls, was started by Fr. Tomas Fernandez (1869 to 1875) and finished in 1879 by Fr. Antonio Munro (1876-1879).  It is connected to the church by a pasadizo (arcade), unique to Bohol and, together, they form one of the more picturesque church complexes in Bohol. A series of arches link the church, pasadizo and convent.

The wooden pillars and the Guy Custodio-restored painted ceiling

The wooden pillars and the Guy Custodio-restored painted ceiling

The generous use of reinforced concrete for the Romanesque-style façade and the central bell tower, which is integrated into the façade, probably helped save the church from serious damage during the October 15, 2013 earthquake. Some coral stone from the facade was detached and fell to the floor but that was all we saw.

Plaque installed by National Historical Commission

Plaque installed by National Historical Commission

Upon entering the church, we were awed by the painted ceiling which was done by Ray Francia from April 12 to August 3, 1932 and recently restored by Manila-born but Spain-based artist Guy Custodio. The massive pillars are actually large tree trunks (a rarity among Philippine churches) masked by metal sheets.

Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary (Corella, Bohol)

The tarsier in its nature habitat

Upon landing at Tagbilaran Airport, we were welcomed at the terminal by our local tour guide Mr. Josue Hinay of Travel Village and Tours.  Boarding our airconditioned coaster, we proceeded on our scheduled Countryside Tour of Bohol. After a 30-min./10 km. drive northeast of the city, we arrived at  the 7.4-hectare Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary.

The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary

The Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary

An arm of the Philippine Tarsier Foundation, Inc. (PTFI), the sanctuary was established in 1996 to protect the tarsier (Tarsius syrichta), Bohol tourism’s mascot.  Known locally as mamag, mago, magau, maomag and magatilok-iok, here the tarsiers are allowed to live and reproduce freely in a natural setting.

What you should know about the tarsier

What you should know about the tarsier

The tarsiers, formerly hunted down, captured and then sold to local and foreign visitors, were declared to be specially protected faunal species of the Philippines by virtue of Proclamation No. 1030, as declared by former Pres. Fidel V. Ramos on June 23, 1997. A 167-hectare sanctuary has been set up in areas within Corella, Sikatuna and Loboc towns where numerous sightings of the tarsiers have been made within their forested domain. Poaching, killing and even wounding of these tarsiers as well as the destruction of its declared habitat are strictly prohibited.

Hiking along the Tarsier Trail

Hiking along the Tarsier Trail

Alighting from our coaster, we made our way to the Tarsier Research and Development Center which has a visitor’s center complete with a reception and souvenir counter, an exhibition area, an audio-visual room, a mini-cafeteria, toilets, and administration offices.  Here, we were assigned a trained volunteer guide who led us through a net enclosure with a 7-ft. high fence (to keep house cats out and the insects in) where 100 tarsiers are kept for feeding, breeding and display.

Taking turns potographing the tarsier

Taking turns potographing the tarsier

Here, we saw and observed, up close and personal, three of them in their nature habitat which consists of mature secondary growths of mahoganyteak and ficus trees as well as many varieties of palmfernbamboo clumps, tall grass patches, thick bushes and other greenery which grow in profusion.  We were allowed to take pictures but were urged to do so quietly and not to handle them so as not to put stress on these nocturnal animals who, during daytime, are asleep.

A close up shot

A close up shot

Back at the Visitors Center, Josue introduced us to Carlito “Lito” Pizarras, the Field Supervisor of the sanctuary.  Known as the “Tarsier Man,” Lito once hunted tarsiers for a living, shooting them out of the trees with an air rifle or trapping them for his father, a taxidermist who augmented the family income through the sale of the preserved, stuffed tarsiers which, at that time, went for PhP300.  He also caught them alive for collectors, hobbyists and tourists by simply shaking the trees until the tarsiers fell.

The Visitors Center

The Visitors Center

Sometime in the 1970s, Lito gave up his air gun, formaldehyde and the other awful tools of his trade, devoting the rest of his life in trying to save this exotic mascot of the Philippines’ receding tropical forests. He has since become an enthusiastic environmentalist and conservationist and, when he noticed their receding numbers, he began keeping several of the tarsiers at the backyard of his residence in Corella, breeding 20 of them successfully. In 1985, he sent 10 live tarsiers to the Chicago Zoo in the United States and, in 1998, he was hired by the foundation, maintaining the net enclosure and serving as a resource person and guide to visitors and researchers at the Research and Development Center. When the UK’s Prince Charles visited Manila on July1997, Lito made a symbolic presentation of a pair of tarsiers to his Royal Highness at Malacañang Palace.

The author with Carlito Pizarras

The author with Carlito Pizarras

Tarsier Research and Development Center: Km. 14, Brgy. Canapnapan, Corella, 6337 Bohol. Mobile numbers: (0927) 541-2290 (Program Manager). E-mail: joanniemaryc@yahoo.com. Website: www.tarsierfoundation.org.

Travel Village and Tours: Bohol Tropics Resort Club, Graham Ave.,
Tagbilaran City, Bohol.  Tel (038) 411-4023  and (038) 501-8078. Fax (038) 411-5928.  Website: www.boholtravelvillage.com.