Potipot Island (Candelaria, Zambales)

Potipot Island (Isla de Potipot))

After a lengthy 7.5-hour drive (we left Manila at 3:30 AM and made stopovers at Jollibee Subic or breakfast, and at the Cathedral of St. Augustine of Hippo in Iba), we arrived at Brgy. Uacon at the town of Candelaria (between Masinloc and Sta.Cruz) and parked my Toyota Revo at the residence of Mr. Joel Gonzales (mobile numbers 0977-2044869 and 0947-3218687), a friend of Bryan.

 Check out “Cathedral of St. Augustine of Hippo

Car parking at Uacon

As it was already lunchtime, Bryan prepared a lunch of pork tocino, hot dogs and fried fish with steamed rice.  This done with, Joel loaded our gear on his tricycle, with Cheska and Kyle on board, for the short drive to the beach where our motorized outrigger boat to Potipot Island (or Isla de Potipot) awaited us.  Jandy, Bryan and I just walked the short distance.

Overcast skies at Uacon Beach

Boardng our 6-pax motorized outrigger boat along Uacon Beach

The closest island from mainland Zambales (about a kilometer away), we can actually see how near Potipot Island is from the beach of Uacon. The boat trip (PhP400/two-way) getting to the eastern side of the island (with its huge and colorful “Isla de Potipot” sign) just took a little over 10 minutes.

On our way to Potipot Island

It was already overcast when we arrived at the island. From the shore, it was just a short walk to the reception center. Visitors to the 7.5-hectare, privately owned Potipot Island are charged PhP100 per head for a day trip and PhP300 for overnight.

The huge and colorful Isla de Potipot sign along the beach

Boat docking area

There are no hotels or inns available on Potipot Island. As it was a long weekend (August 19-21), the island was brimming with tourists (it easily gets fully booked during weekends), many camped in tents near where the boats dock.  Tent rentals are also available but it is not a regular service on the island. 

Reception pavilion

Campers can eat their meals at a pavilion with tables, without having to pay an additional fee.

Picnic tables

There is also a grilling area where they can grill their own food but they’ll have to bring everything, including the charcoal.

A 10-20-pax nipa cottage

An array of nipa and bamboo cottages

Others stayed in nipa cottages (PhP1,500, for 10-20-pax, and PhP2,000 for 5-10-pax) and more modern cottages on stilts (PhP2,500, 5-8-pax).

Tent city

Cheska and Bryan start setting up the tent with Kyle looking on

We opted to stay in the latter with our tent set up beside it for Kyle to experience his first camping. Jandy and I stayed at the very spartan, treetop height cottage on stilts which had a double bed with mosquito net.  We also had a table with 4 chairs (all are available for free around the island on a first come, first serve basis).

A modern, tree-height cottage on concrete stilts

The cottage interior

For cooking, we brought our own butane gas stove (we have to be careful not to burn any tree as we could be fined). Nearby is a citadel-like tree house said to belong to the island’s owner.

The citadel-like treehouse cottage

Normally, at day’s end, visitors are treated to a stunning sunset along the beach but, as a low pressure area was in the day’s forecast, it was already starting to rain.

Dusk at Potipot Island

This small but pristine and breathtaking beach bumming paradise, also known as the Little Boracay of the North, has shores surrounded by creamy white sand (the island’s name is derived from the native words puti po meaning “it’s white”), and turquoise blue water and offshore coral.

Potipot’s white sand beach

A good beach camping destination, it also has a lush array of trees to provide much-needed shade.  The different kinds of trees found here, some with roots extending out to the water, include mahogany, talisay, coconut, hanga (an indigenous source of petroleum nut oil), sampaloc, kamachile, guava, mango, duhat, suha, kamias, etc.

Grassy area at the center of the island

The center of the island is a grassy plain with another huge “Isla de Potipot” sign and a children’s playground.

Second Isla de Potipot sign

Children’s playground

There’s no potable water source in Potipot so we bought our water supply at the jump-off. The island has a number of clean and decent public shower rooms and toilets (one conveniently located just across from our cottage) so freshening up wasn’t much of a problem.

Public toilet

However, the water supply can lose pressure if a lot of people are taking a bath at the same time. Lighting on the island is provided by a generator so it is not totally dark at night. They also offer charging services, via solar panels, for any electronic gadget.

Early morning breakfast.  L-R: Cheska, Bryan, Jandy and the author

Kyle sleeping in a hammock we brought and slung between the concrete stilts of our cottage

The stay-in caretakers were friendly and more than willing to help you if you ever need anything. For a minimal fee, we could also ask them to cook our food.

“Leave No Trace Only Footprint” sign

They’re strict about cleaning up and bringing your trash with you when you leave (“Leave No Traces Only Footprints signs are everywhere). Segregated (plastic, leftovers and other waste) waste bins can also be found.

Segregated waste bins

Also nearby is a small sari-sari (convenience) store where we can buy bread, soft drinks, coffee, noodles, bottled water, snacks, canned goods, etc. as well as souvenirs, goggle and other knickknacks. Some vendors also sell foodstuff.  However, to avoid inconvenience, it is still advisable to bring your own food and water when you go there. Liquor or alcoholic beverages are prohibited.

Convenience store

It was sunny the next day (I missed out on the beautiful sunrise) and, after breakfast, we were supposed to hop over to Hermana Menor Island, a 2-hour boat ride away.  However, heavy waves made this impossible.  Instead, Jandy, Bryan, Cheska and Kyle went swimming along the nearby shoreline.

Kyle, Bryan and Cheska savoring the warm, crystal clear waters of the island

Though calm, the crystal clear, warm waters here can get, within a few steps, from knee deep to neck deep.  At the back part of the island (the part not facing the main shore of Zambales), you also have to be careful with sea urchins. Later, Cheska, Bryan and Kyle went kayaking around the island (PhP300/hour).

An array of tandem kayaks for rent

Bryan, Cheska and Kyle try out kayaking

Or my part, I decided to circle the island and my leisurely walk took about 30 mins. On the opposite side of the island, facing the West Philippine Sea, is another campsite for those who want peace and quiet. The sand seems to be finer here and the waters clearer.

Pre-nuptial photo shoot atop a sea wall

A photo booth for couples

Along the way I passed a couple having a pre-nuptial photo shoot. There are also rock formations on the other side of the island (where the sun sets). The famous, iconic driftwood, located in a slightly rocky portion of the beach on the southwestern part, is the site of an obligatory photo shoot for tourists. At the northern side, sea grass are clearly visible underneath the clear waters.

The iconic driftwood, a site for obligatory photo shoots

The feel and ultimate charm of this relatively unknown and undiscovered little gem of an island was like Boracay during its pre-development years. Here, every now and then, you can bathe in its turquoise waters and stroll under its arboreal ceiling without bumping into boisterous tourists.

Hermana Menor Island as seen from Potipot Island

We left the island by noontime, again boarding Joel’s boat for the return trip back to the mainland.  After a late lunch, gain prepared by Bryan, at Joel’s place, we left Uacon by 2:30 PM and proceeded on our return trip back to Manila, making stopovers at the Church of St. Monica in Botolan, a viewpoint in Subic and dinner at a Pancake House outlet along NLEX.  We were back in Manila by 10:30 PM.

Check out “Church of St. Monica

ADDENDUM

On June 19, 2018, exactly 10 months after our first visit, Cheska and Bryan, with some mountaineering friends, returned to Potipot Island for overnight camping.

Unknown to Cheska, Jandy, Kyle and I, this time with my wife Grace and her officemates, followed suit and stayed in treehouses some distance from their campsite.

That afternoon, during a break in the stormy weather (Typhoon Domeng was in town), Bryan proposed marriage to Cheska, with us in attendance, and she accepted. Watch the heartwarming marriage proposal video here.

The Proposal. Bryan (third from right, with the “Me” shirt) popped the question to Cheska (at right) and she said YES. Kyle (wearing the “?”), between the two, acted as engagement ring bearer. Their friends wore individual lavender (Cheska’s favorite color) each with an individual letter which, when properly bunched together, spelled the words “Will you marry me?”

Isla de Potipot: Brgy. Uacon, Candelaria, Zambales. Mobile numbers: (0905) 456-7243 (Globe) and (0920) 499-9134 (Smart).  Look for Arjay, Jamie or Flor. E-mail: isladepotipotmarketing@gmail.com. Instagram: www.instagram.com/isla_de_potipot. Facebook: www.facebook.com/isladepotipothotelandbeachresort.

How to Get There: To get to Brgy. Uacon, Candelaria by car (a 5-6-hour drive), take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX) all the way to the Dau/Mabalacat Exit. For speed and ease of travel, travel the length of the Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX) to the Tipo Exit (the shorter route, through San Fernando – Lubao in Pampanga, passes through narrower roads and congested town centers).  Upon exiting, pass through the Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority (SBMA), on to Subic town and then take the national road all the way to Candelaria, passing the towns of Castillejos, San Marcelino, San Narciso, San Felipe, Cabangan, Botolan, Iba, Palauig and Masinloc before Candelaria. 

Sta. Cruz-bound Victory Liner buses also pass by Candelaria, the town just before Sta. Cruz). Get off at the Uacon Barangay Hall and, from there, take a tricycle (or even walk) to the nearest resort or the beach where you can get a boat to Potipot Island.

Guyam Island (Gen. Luna, Surigao del Norte)

Guyam Island

After lunch at Daku Island, we again boarded our respective boats for the short trip to our third and final island in our tour – Guyam Island.  Located just few hundred meters north of Daku Island, this small, 4,300 sq. m. (46,000 sq. ft.) tear-drop shaped island is 84 m. (276 ft.) long, 64 m. (210 ft.) wide and has a 230 m. (750 ft.) long coastline which one can walk leisurely around in a little more than 15 minutes. The island is unpretentious but is equally interesting as Naked and Daku Island.

Check out “Naked Island” and “Daku Island

PDI writer Amadis Ma. Guerrero makes landfall on the island

This picturesque, privately owned island has resident caretakers that collect a PhP10 entrance fee from every visitor. This islet has a small stretch of powdery to coarse, ivory to white sand and is home to a small grove of coconut, talisay (beach almond) and pine trees that have thrived there for years. It also has interesting coral rock formations that are perfect for snorkeling.

The small grove of talisay and coconut trees

The part of the island facing the the Philippine Sea is littered with boulders and hard corals that protect the island from storm surges and from constant tidal terrain movement.

The author walking along the rocky part of the island (photo: Ms. Louise Santianen)

A few meters away from this miniature tropical paradise, tourists can enjoy surfing, fishing and swimming. Supposedly, the island also offers a nice view of the raging surfing waves that Siargao is best known for.

The author doing an Oblation pose …… (photo: Ms. Louise Santianen)

The island, located around 2 kms. (1.2 mi) south-southeast of General Luna municipality, can be seen when you are in General Luna boulevard.

Guyam Island seen from General Luna boulevard

Two to three wooden cottages are available for rent. If you wish to stay overnight, you can pitch your tent for a small fee. Bring your own food and water.

The best feature of the island is its stunning view of the sun setting in the west but we weren’t going to experience this as we had to return to the mainland, just a 10-min. boat ride away. Despite being small, this  island has quite a lot of charm for island lovers.

Siargao Tourism Office: Paseo De Cabuntog, Brgy. Catangnan, Gen. Luna, Siargao Island. Mobile number: (0921) 718-2268 (Ms. Donna Grace T. Estrella – Siargao Tourism Coordinator)

How to Get There: Skyjet Airlines has daily, 100-min. direct flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Siargao (Sayak Airport). ETD Manila at 6 AM (M8-421), ETA Siargao at 7:40 AM. Return flights: ET Siargao at 8:10 AM (M8-422), ETD Manila at 9:50 AM.

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333 and (02) 823-3366. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Daku Island (Gen. Luna, Surigao del Norte)

Daku Island

After our short stopover at Naked Island, we again boarded our boats for the short trip to Daku (or Dako) Island, the biggest among the three popular island destinations in Siargao. Named after the Visayan word for “big,” it’s unlike the other two islands (Naked and Guyam Islands) as it is inhabited, with a village of 300 residents, mostly fisherman, grouped in less than a hundred families.

Check out “Naked Island” and “Guyam Island

This unheard of paradise, with its cool vibe and breathtaking, picturesque scenery, has one of the finest best beaches in the Philippines, with a long, powdery white sand beach sprinkled with countless tall coconut trees (the best sweet-tasting fresh coconuts are a-plenty here) and surrounded by superb crystalline waters. Seaweeds are non-existent here. Locals also say that the beach area changes every season.

Our boodle lunch

The island was our longest stopover as we were to experience a boodle lunch, prepared by Chris G. Estrella (husband of Siargao Tourism Coordinator Donna Grace T. Estrella) of Mayambago Catering Services. The fare included grilled chicken, squid, tambakol (yellow fin tuna), ganga (spider conch) and hot dogs; steamed rice; and a dessert of ripe mangoes, bananas and sliced watermelon; all washed down with fresh buko juice and soft drinks. For a first timer like me, the cleanliness of the place was etched in my memory and I found it unbelievable at how the locals managed to maintain the place, with no plastic or other waste materials scattered along the beach.

The two huts we occupied

With its fine white sand, very clean surroundings and pretty cool winds coming from the Pacific Ocean, I was enticed to swim in such a place. The island is also ideal for surfing. During the amihan (southwesterly wind), there are fun right-hander that breaks during large swells.  Its waves, small and great for beginners, break on the protected eastern side of the island.

Aside from swimming, other activities on the island include snorkeling (around the southern end of the island), fishing, skim boarding, beach bumming and kayaking (you can rent a double kayak at an affordable price and kayak as long as you want).

Ideal for a family or group picnics, you can rent a centerpiece cottage lined up on the western side of the gorgeous beach for a day for PhP250. For PhP50/kg. cooking fee, you can also have your rice and fish cooked for you. Additionally, tourists and visitors alike can experience the cool vibe and island culture as well as feel the serenity and tranquility of the place with an overnight stay in simple beachfront native huts for as low as PhP700.

Keep in mind, though, that there is no electricity on the island. The community has a tiny chapel, a small community center, a day-care center but no commercial establishments (just a single, small sari-sari store where you could buy some snacks and drinks). Still, secluded Daku Island is certainly a truly wonderful destination to visit.  For me, it is even more beautiful than Boracay Island (minus the maddening crowd and the hustle and bustle of city life), making it a perfect getaway for those who want to have an unspoiled vacation.

Siargao Tourism Office: Paseo De Cabuntog, Brgy. Catangnan, Gen. Luna, Siargao Island. Mobile number: (0921) 718-2268 (Ms. Donna Grace T. Estrella – Siargao Tourism Coordinator)

How to Get There: Skyjet Airlines has daily, 100-min. direct flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Siargao (Sayak Airport). ETD Manila at 6 AM (M8-421), ETA Siargao at 7:40 AM. Return flights: ET Siargao at 8:10 AM (M8-422), ETD Manila at 9:50 AM.

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333 and (02) 823-3366. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Naked Island (Gen. Luna, Surigao del Norte)

Naked Island

After our short visit to the Cloud Nine boardwalk at Gen. Luna, we again boarded our respective vans as we were scheduled to go on an island hopping tour sponsored by Surigao del Norte District I Cong. Francisco Jose “Bingo” Matugas II.  When we arrived at the port, we had to wade the shallow water, as it was low tide, to get to our two motorized outrigger boats moored some distance away.

General Luna Port at low tide

Offshore are the three white sand islands we were to visit – Naked Island, Daku Island (the biggest of the three) and Guyam Island (the tiniest).Once on board, we proceeded on our 25-min. boat ride to our first destination – Naked Island.

Check out “Daku Island” and “Guyam Island

A lone palm tree amidst sparse vegetation

Also called Pansukian Island, Naked Island is, in fact, only a bare, 200 m. long sandbar with no trees (just some occasional patches of bushes), no structures (save for a wooden bench), no nothing. It’s just a tiny speck of pristine, powdery white sand (with some patches of rock) in the horizon, surrounded by a deeper, crystal-clear lagoon between the blue sky and the turquoise sea, similar to the more famous White Island of Camiguin, only smaller. And, just like White Island, this sandbar also changes positions depending on the tide.

Check out “White Island

Patches of rock on the island

It was a good thing we arrived during low tide as this island submerges significantly during high tide.   With not a single tree in sight for you to rest under, Naked Island is a perfect place to get a tan without getting bugged by the crowd (though some take the “naked”” in the name too literally by posing naked). However, attempts have been made to green the island as some plants have now been growing in the sand.

Daku Island seen from Naked Island

For those afraid of getting a sunburn, it is advisable that you visit the island early in the morning to somehow avoid the peak of the sun’s heat. If you intend to stay longer, bring your own beach umbrellas, sunscreen lotion and mattresses. You can actually own Naked Island for a day and do whatever you like by actually renting it but you have to reserve it ahead of time.

L-R: Ms. Donna Grace T. Estrella (Siargao Tourism Coordinator), Mr. Donald Tapan (noted photographer) and the author

Aside from swimming with a school of fish, snorkeling and sunbathing, you can also take pictures of migratory birds such as terns who frequent the island or or just relax by the shore, with a book and a tall, cold glass of juice, while enjoying the great view of the neighboring islands. Additionally, it is also a perfect spot for surfing because of the large waves.

The author, with Mr. Pete Dacuycuy, seated on the lone wooden structure on the island

Siargao Tourism Office: Paseo De Cabuntog, Brgy. Catangnan, Gen. Luna, Siargao Island. Mobile number: (0921) 718-2268 (Ms. Donna Grace T. Estrella – Siargao Tourism Coordinator).

How to Get There: Skyjet Airlines has daily, 100-min. direct flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Siargao (Sayak Airport). ETD Manila at 6 AM (M8-421), ETA Siargao at 7:40 AM. Return flights: ET Siargao at 8:10 AM (M8-422), ETD Manila at 9:50 AM.

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333 and (02) 823-3366. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Cloud 9 Boardwalk (Gen. Luna, Surigao del Norte)

Cloud 9 boardwalk

After our Sugba Lagoon tour, we returned to Del Carmen’s port and then boarded our respective vans for the 38 km. (45-min.) drive to Gen. Luna, arriving at the town’s iconic Cloud 9 boardwalk by 4 PM.  This wooden boardwalk was built for the hundreds of spectators, judges, VIPs, tourists, non-surfers, competitors and photographers, during the 2014 Siargao International Surfing Cup in September, so that they can be very near where the waves are at Cloud 9.

Cloud 9’s white sand beach

One of Siargao’s most famous landmarks, many world-renowned, champion surfers like Alana Blanchard, Paul Fisher, Chris Zaffis, John Mark Tokong, Philmar Alipayo, Philippa Anderson (Australia), Sandon Whittaker (Australia) and Piso Alcala have strolled its length. We too would pretty much walk up, on the same wooden planks these world’s top wave riders walked on, to the area where the large waves form.

The 3-storey observation deck

The third storey

At the end of the 100-m. long boardwalk is a 3-story observation deck on stilts where surfers can relax after a hard-day’s practice , watch their fellow surfers riding out the waves or while the cool afternoons away. During every Siargao International Surfing Cup (the country’s most-awaited surfing event), this observation deck is laden with colorful banners of different surfing-related brands (RipCurl, Stoked, Fluid Surf, Billa, etc.).

The author

Surfers with their surfboards (photo: Donald Tapan)

As we arrived during high tide, surfers of all ages, genders, and nationalities, beginner or professional, were already starting to enjoy the waves of Cloud 9. This famed surf spot, in the country’s southeastern Pacific seaboard, was so-called after the popular chewy chocolate bar that can keep your glucose level high until those with sweet tooth can get their next meal.  In the 1980s, foreign surfers subsisted on this candy bar when the obscure surf spot was yet a best-kept secret. Today, because of the heavenly feeling it brings, riding its 16-ft. high waves is much like walking on Cloud 9.

This dramatic and powerful reef break, which crashes onto shallow, razor-sharp coral, offers right and left death rides to daring surfing buffs. In 2012, CNNGo, the travel news web site of the Cable News Network, listed Cloud 9 as No. 8 in the World’s Top 50 Best Surf Spots. Its surfing areas are categorized as Jockeying Horse for the beginners, Quicksilver for the intermediate class and Cloud 9 for the professionals. For beginners, surfing lessons are offered by local surfers at Php300/hour, while surfboard rental is at Php200/hour. Children as young as 8 years old are allowed to take lessons.

A selection of surfboards for rent

Surfers paddling towards Cloud 9

Even during high tide, the area is not really for swimming since a large expanse of it is shallow, waist-high waters.  Locals say that waves start to pick up in August to September when the southwest wind (habagat) is prevailing, the beginning of the surfing season.  Even during our third week of July visit, sun-baked local boys and pro surfers who can teach you the basics of surfing were everywhere. The waves look small in our photos but they’re actually quite big and powerful. Everyone was having the time of their lives experiencing this ethereal out-of-this-world emotional journey.

Surfers strutting their stuff at Cloud 9 (photo: Mr. Pete Dacuycuy)

Siargao Tourism Office: Paseo De Cabuntog, Brgy. Catangnan, Gen. Luna, Siargao Island. Mobile number: (0921) 718-2268 (Ms. Donna Grace T. Estrella – Siargao Tourism Coordinator)

How to Get There: Skyjet Airlines has daily, 100-min. direct flights from Manila (NAIA Terminal 4) to Siargao (Sayak Airport). ETD Manila at 6 AM (M8-421), ETA Siargao at 7:40 AM. Return flights: ET Siargao at 8:10 AM (M8-422), ETD Manila at 9:50 AM.

Skyjet Airlines: Manila Domestic Airport, Parking A, Terminal 4, NAIA Complex, Brgy. 191, Pasay City, Metro Manila. Tel: (02) 863-1333 and (02) 823-3366. E-mail: sales@skyjetair.com. Website: www.skyjetair.com.

Baltimore’s Inner Harbor (Maryland, USA)

Inner Harbor

The Inner Harbor District, a historic seaporttourist attraction and landmark of the city, is located within walking distance of Camden Yards and M&T Bank Stadium, at the mouth of Jones Falls, creating the wide and short northwest branch of the Patapsco River.

The name “Inner Harbor” includes any water west of a line drawn between the foot of President Street and the American Visionary Art Museum plus the surrounding area within the approximate street boundaries of President Street to the east, Lombard Street to the north, Greene Street to the west, and Key Highway on the south.

The author (lower right corner) walking along the waterfront

The Inner Harbor, with its historically shallow water (prior to manipulation through dredging), was not conducive to large ships or heavy industry and, in the 1950s, suffered from the economic decline with the arrival of container ships after World War II as well as restructuring common to many industrial cities in the United States, ending both its freight and passenger use.

Jandy crossing a pedestrian bridge

To reverse the city’s decline and reconnect Baltimore with its waterfront, the Inner Harbor was gradually transformed with award-winning parks and plazas surrounded by office buildings, hotels and leisure attractions, starting with the adoption of the 13 hectare (33-acre) Charles Center project.

Children frolicking at a fountain

Between 1958 and 1965, Baltimore renewed this center of its business district with office buildings, hotels and retail shops. In 1963, the redevelopment program was expanded to include 97 hectares (240 acres) surrounding the Inner Harbor with corporate headquarters and hotels being built around the shoreline, with a public park and promenade added for leisure activity and community gatherings.

Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.

Following the U.S. Bicentennial, other tourist attractions were developed such as the National Aquarium, the Maryland Science Center and the Harbor Place Festival Marketplace (opened on July 4, 1980 and operated by The Rouse Company). The nearby Baltimore Convention Center and Hyatt Regency Baltimore Hotel added to the services, resulting in increased population density and attracting a huge number of tourists.

In recent years, Inner Harbor East, the area along the waterfront to the east of the Inner Harbor (in the direction of Fells Point and Little Italy), has been developed with mixed-use developments incorporating office space, condominiums, street-level retail space, restaurants and hotels.

In the 1970s and 1980s, with the success of the renewal of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor, the city became a worldwide tourist destination and a model of urban renaissance, planning and development in cities around the world, influencing more than 100 other cities and winning more than 40 national or international awards.  In 1984, the American Institute of Architects cited it as “one of the supreme achievements of large-scale urban design and development in U.S. history. In 2009, the Urban Land Institute described it as “the model for post-industrial waterfront redevelopment around the world.”

Federal Hill Park

Federal Hill Park (300 Warren Ave.), a former lookout during the War of 1812 and the Civil War located on the south side of the Inner Harbor, allows visitors to take in ​a dramatic view of Baltimore’s cityscape from the top of the hill.

National Aquarium in Baltimore

The National Aquarium in Baltimore (501 E. Pratt St., Pier 3 and Pier 4, Inner Harbor) has a collection of more than 16,500 specimens representing 660 species, with exhibits including a multi-storey Atlantic coral reef, an open ocean shark tank, a 4-D immersion theater, a tropical rain forest, a glass pavilion with Australian wildlife, and a mammal pavilion that holds Atlantic bottlenose dolphins.

Check out “National Aquarium in Baltimore

Sloop-of-War USS Constellation

The Historic Ships in Baltimore (Piers 1, 3, and 5) features four historic ships permanently docked in the harbor that visitors can climb aboard and experience – the USS Constellation (first launched in 1854, it is the only Civil War-era ship still afloat), USCGC Taney (last fighting ship still afloat that survived the attack on Pearl Harbor), the USS Torsk (a Tench-class submarine, it is the last ship to sink an enemy vessel in World War II) and the Lightship Chesapeake (a U.S. Coast Guard lightship from the 1930s) plus the Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse.

Check out “The Historic Ships of Baltimore,” “USS Constellation Museum”  and “USCGC Taney

Harborplace and the Gallery

Harborplace and the Gallery (Light and Pratt Sts.) are two pavilions with a mix of local and national restaurants and stores, plus Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium (has 500 of Ripley’s trademark “oddities” in seven different galleries, plus a mirror maze and a 4-D movie theater)

Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Odditorium

Maryland Science Center (601 Light St.) has 3 levels of exhibits, a planetarium, and an IMAX theater plus a special exhibit on blue crabs.

Maryland Science Center

Top of the World (401 E. Pratt St.) an observation deck on the 27th floor of the Baltimore World Trade Center, offers sweeping a 360-degree birds-eye views of the city. On the pedestrian promenade outside the building is a memorial to the victims of the September 11, 2001, attacks.

Baltimore World Trade Center

Port Discovery Children’s Museum (35 Market Place), on the site of the historic Baltimore Fish Market, is a children’s museum with a three-story jungle gym specifically designed for kids ages 2-10.

Holocaust Memorial

American Visionary Art Museum (800 Key Highway), a mosaic-clad museum, has a  collection of offbeat, innovative art produced by self-taught individuals, plus free outdoor movies and the Kinetic Sculpture Race.

Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Maryland African American History and Culture

The Reginald F. Lewis Museum of African-American History and Culture (830 E. Pratt St.), the largest of its kind on the East Coast, is dedicated to preserving the stories of the Maryland African American community, past and present.

Baltimore Civil War Museum

Baltimore Museum of Industry (1415 Key Highway), located in an old cannery, holds exhibits on various types of manufacturing and industry from the early 20th century. one of its star attractions is the Baltimore, the oldest surviving steam tugboat and a National Historic Landmark.

Baltimore Visitors Center

The Baltimore Visitor Center (401 Light St.), just north of the Maryland Science Center, has touch-screen kiosks that tell visitors where to go, and staff can help clue you into events happening in the city. It also has public restrooms inside.

Philips Seafood

Power Plant Live! (601 E Pratt St.), the former Pratt Street Power Plant  located 2 blocks north of the Inner Harbor, is an entertainment complex that comes alive at night with bars,  clubs, restaurants and music venues that includes Phillips Seafood, Rams Head Live!,  Hard Rock Cafe (opened July 4, 1997) plus Barnes & Noble and Maryland Art Place (a contemporary art gallery for Maryland artists).

Hard Rock Cafe

Other places to visit here include the Lloyd Street Synagogue (the third-oldest synagogue in the United States, now the Jewish Museum of Maryland), Civil War Museum (President Street Station), Sports Legends Museum at Camden Yards, Dr. Samuel D. Harris Museum of Dentistry (University of Maryland), Babe Ruth birthplace and museum, Oriole Park at Camden Yards (home of the Baltimore Orioles), Camden Yards Sports Complex, Columbus Center (home of the University of Maryland Biotechnology Institute), Bnai Israel (a Moorish Revival synagogue now open as a museum), Holocaust Memorial  (E Lombard and S Gay St.), Lockwood Place, Geppi’s Entertainment Museum (a privately owned pop culture museum at Camden Station opened last September 2006), M&T Bank Stadium (home of the Baltimore Ravens), Royal Farms Arena and the Pier Six Pavilion (a music venue at 731 Eastern Ave.)

Pier Six Pavilion

Blue and white water taxis (US&6-12), from 17 locations, connect passengers from the Inner Harbor to Fells PointCanton, and Fort McHenry.

Check out “Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine – Birthplace of the Star Spangled Banner

Water Taxi

You can explore the Inner Harbor on a traditional paddle boat (US$12 per half-hour rental) or the colorful Chesapeake Bay ‘Chessie’ Monster (US version of Scotland’s ‘Nessie,’ US$20 per half-hour rental),  both classic childhood favorites. Both boats hold up to four occupants. If you don’t feel like paddling, there’s the electric boat (half-hour rental – US$10 for one person or US$15 for two).

Cheska, Jandy, Grace and Kyle in a Chessie

Visitors can also explore the harbor via the red and purple-bottomed Cruises on the Bay by Watermark (US$6-17) and the larger yacht Spirit of Baltimore (US$42 and up); the bright yellow speedboats of Seadog Cruises (US$20 range) and the wood-paneled pirate ship The Fearless by Urban Pirates (US$20-25).

Spirit of Baltimore

Cruise ships also offer narrated, 45-min. tours of the Inner Harbor where you’ll learn about the city’s maritime and industrial history as well as the resurgence of the waterfront, Federal Hill, and Fells Point.  You can also avail of 60-min. tours focusing on Fort McHenry, 90-min. cocktail cruises and spectacular 60-min. “city lights” tours. 

Calinawan Cave (Tanay, Rizal)

Calinawan Cave

Calinawan Cave

This natural, multi-level cave, part of several series of caves in the area, was said to have been discovered in 1901 (by a grandfather of one of the cave guides).  It was used as a local hideout by refugees during the Philippine-American War and by the Japanese during World War II.

Calinawan Cave (2)

Media group

We detoured to this cave before proceeding to Daranak Falls. It’s a long and bumpy ride getting there since most of the road isn’t paved yet and the cave isn’t signposted that well.

Calinawan Cave (8)

The author at Level 1

This cave is mostly dry and many of the stalactites and stalagmites, though still impressive, are dead. The cave’s name was derived from the word linaw (clear).  During the 15th-18th century, opposing parties used to convene inside the cave to settle disputes.  It’s a long cave system with different levels and openings.

The cave opening

The cave opening

This cave has 7 levels but most visitors only explore the first two levels. The less visited and seldom explored Levels 3-5 are more challenging to explore as you may need to get your hands dirty.

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An eerie column

It also requires squeezing your body to fit inside the narrow and small cave openings.  It can only be explored during summer as, during the rainy season, they’re flooded and muddy. Levels 6-7 are closed. Our tour took about 30 mins.

Calinawan Cave (5)

Our guide Jason told us that one path leads to as far as the town of Montalban (others say that there are those that lead to the neighboring towns of Baras and Pililia).

Calinawan Cave (29)

The local TV fantasy series “Encantadia” was filmed here and, more recently, the Coco Martin TV series “Ang Probinsyano.” The TV series “Imortal” disturbed level 1 with silver and gray paint and glued glitters on the cave walls and other indelible and irreversible damage.

Calinawan Cave (14)

In case you get hungry or thirsty after the cave exploration, small sari-sari stores in the area sell sandwiches, soft drinks, halo-halo, mais con yelo, and biscuits.

Calinawan Cave (31)

As a spelunking experience, this is a relatively easy cave to explore, requiring no technical or special skills, especially for the first 2 levels. Well suited for first timers with no previous spelunking experience.  Levels 3-5, taking about half a day to explore, are just satisfying enough for the veterans.

Calinawan Cave (36)

Calinawan Cave: Calinawan Road, Brgy. Tandang Kutyo, Tanay, Rizal. Admission: PhP20. Tour guide fee: PhP 200 (good for 10 pax). You are provided with safety helmets and LED flashlights (however, these are very weak and you won’t be able to take great photos inside) as the second level of the cave has zero visibility. For that mandatory picture taking, use a camera with low light function. If you wish to explore layers 3-5, the guide may ask you for a consideration fee.

How to Get There: Calinawan Cave can be reached by tricycle (PhP200) from Tanay Market. For those with cars, there’s a parking area in front of the cave entrance.

Tanay Tourism Office: G/F, New Tanay Municipal Hall, M. H. del Pilar St., Tanay, Rizal 1980.  Tel: (02) 7361059 and (02) 6551773 loc 212-213.  Mobile number: (0998) 988-1590. E-mail: tanaytourism11@gmail.com. Website: www.tanay.gov.ph.

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone (Bantay, Ilocos Sur)

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone

The Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone (ISAZ), an adventure center at the boundary of the towns of Bantay and Santa, near the postcard-pretty Old Quirino Bridge, is the newest attraction in this side of Ilocos Sur.  Owned, built and operated by the provincial government, it was fully operational since  December 22, 2011.

Ilocos Sur Adventure Zone (8)

With its climbing and rappelling walls, kayak center, zorb balls, giant swing and its 400 m. long zip line that crosses the Abra River, it mostly caters to adrenaline junkies and adventure freaks and is perfect for local and international tourists wanting a bit more than visiting museums and the cobble streets of nearby Vigan City, a 15-min. drive away.

Zipline tower

Zipline tower

They also offer rock climbing and rappelling at the rocky mountains of Banaoang.

Giant Swing

Giant Swing

Adventure Zone: Brgy. Banaoang, Bantay, Ilocos Sur. Rates: zipline (Php250, one way, sitting; PhP300 each, one-way, superman; PhP500,  two way), rappelling (PhP150, 2 attempts), wall climbing (PhP150, 2 attempts), kayaking (PhP150, 30 mins.), giant swing (PhP180, single; PhP300, twin).

How to Get There: Sta. Maria-bound buses (fare: PhP25) from Vigan City pass by the area.

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (Narvacan, Ilocos Sur)

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub

The Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH), a very unique adventure camp and outdoor sports complex in Narvacan, Ilocos Sur  founded in 2005, is another reason to visit Ilocos Sur (aside from the Spanish-era Earthquake Baroque churches and the Old World charm of Vigan).

Narvacan Beach

Opened last October 2012 by the local government headed by Mayor Zuriel S. Zaragoza, this one-stop shop offering various extreme activities will surely showcase one’s adventurous side and are very close to the elements: water, wind, earth and fire.

Bantay Abot Hill seen offshore from a Hobie Cat

NOAH hosts the Philippines’ first full-scale Via Ferrata (literally meaning “Iron Road” or “Iron Path”), a vertical 280-meter climb into a steep rock wall of the majestic 1,050-ft. high Bantay Abot Hill designed with the regular tourist in mind – no climbing experience required despite the challenges posed by the cliff face.

Media Tour Group at NOAH

Now a major tourist destination and a significant leap in the transformation of the once sleepy agricultural municipality of Narvacan into an adrenaline junkie’s paradise, NOAH aims to promote tourism and the beauty of the town with its grand, rocky mountains and magnificent view of the sea.

Arko Restaurant

Aside from the Via Ferrata, NOAH’s other attractions are paragliding, Hobie Cat sailing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, 4×4 ATVs, dune buggies, etc..  It also has an in-house, beachfront restaurant (Arko Restaurant) which is the first establishment that will greet you along Sulvec Port Road. It serves both local and foreign dishes including Ilocos Sur’s very popular bagnet (deep-fried, crispy pork belly).  Its backyard is a campsite (Php150/tent).  There’s a “sustainable” bunk for bonfires and outdoor toilet and bathing facilities.

Windsurfing lessons by the beach

For those learning to sail, wind surf and kite surf (the “water” activity), the uniquely located Bantay Abot Hill, directly in front of a 3 km. stretch of beach (from the abandoned Sulvec Port all the way to the Narvacan River), causes a special wrap-around, mid-day, side shore wind in the land breeze, making it safe (you still have to wear a life vest) as it does not pose the danger of getting blown out into the open sea.

The author trying his hand at windsurfing

Though fun, windsurfing isn’t easy as the sail gets heavy when wet and, when the wind hits, its much harder to control the boom and pull it back to your body. You can enjoy the sea breeze and the offshore scenery via Hobie Cat sailing. Cost is Php2,500 for windsurfing plus lessons (6 hours), Php800/30mins. for the Hobie Cat (maximum 2 pax) with a pilot and introduction to sailing, and Php800/hr. for windsurf board rental.

Thea author (left) with blogger Dave Gatensby on board a Hobie Cat

Riding dune buggies, 4 x 4 jeeps and ATVs (drivers must have a driver’s license), considered the “fire” activity, can bring out the Mad Max in you as you follow the hilly track and explore the mini sand dunes via an exhilarating, off-road experience tailor fit for first time riders. Starting from the Rock Garden (a luxurious beachfront event place), a number of ramps provided lots of thrills. Cost is Php2,500 per 4 x 4 (5 pax  maximum capacity).

Off road driving (photo: www.solitarywanderer.com)

To climb the Via Ferrata (the “earth” activity), you have to have to no fear of heights and be reasonably fit, with strong legs and upper body to do it. First, you have to don, with the assistance of the staff, protective gear such as helmet and other rappelling and climbing gears (carabineers, harness, etc.), all high-quality equipment from abroad.  Bring bottled water. Then you have to hike, under the scorching sun, to the base of Bantay Abot.  From there, you have to pull ourselves up 150 m. to get above some boulders.

Climbing Bantay Abot Hill

Along the way are handy ropes and cables. While climbing, your two carabineers are actually clamped into a steel cable so that, when you slip, you will still be attached to the cable, saving one from a fall. Upon reaching the zipline platform, you have decide to proceed with the Via Ferrata or exit the hill via NOAH’s 520 m. long zipline.

The author atop Bantay Abot Hill

Moving at 40 kph, a zipline ride lasts about 50 seconds (it’s a bit slow near the end) as you zipped down, with a bird’s eye view of the beautiful scenery, to Arko and the Bay Boulevard.

The author getting ready to zipline down

Others who continue on with the trickier Via Ferrata, climb the vertical, 300-foot high rock face aided by steel steps drilled into the rock, a setup like climbing a step-ladder.  This is not a totally vertical climb as there are diagonal portions on the Via Ferrata that require spreading your legs wide to maintain balance and keep them upright. Reaching the top is the highlight of the climb.

The Via Ferrata (photo: www.solitarywanderer.com)

You descend the summit by rappelling via a Tyrolean traverse cable (100 ft.) – perfectly safe as its safety feature actually allowed one to let go of their hands even when suspended 200 ft. from the ground. The Full Mountain Adventure (Via Ferrata, Tyrolean Traverse and the zipline going back to camp) will cost Php800/pax. Php300 for zipline only.

The Tyrolean Traverse

The highlight of a NOAH experience has to be the “air activity of paragliding (hence the media launch theme “Love is in the Air”), a competitive as well as recreational sport. Wind conditions change throughout the day and there may be several windows within the day for a successful launch.

The author (in blue) getting ready to paraglide with Carlaa Montero of Sarangani Paraglide as my pilot

Participants (again, you should not have any fear of heights) ride pickup trucks or buggies, along a zigzagging dirt road, to the top of Bantay Abot to be followed later by the paragliding gear.

Up, up and away…..

Participants will have to fly tandem with experienced pilots.  You are both positioned along the slope, with the chute spread out above and, when the wind rushes in, you both run off the heights and become airborne, hundreds of feet up, as you fly into the setting sun.

Selfie while airborne

Exhilaration rushes as you savor the joy of flying, at the same time being mesmerized by the beautiful and breathtaking vista of the rugged Ilocos Sur landscape, mountain ranges and the vast blue West Philippine Sea spread out before you.  After a 15-minute flight, you make a solid landing at the beach.. Check out my paragliding video here.

View from the air…..

Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub (NOAH): Bulanos Beach, Brgy. Bulanos, Narvacan, Ilocos Sur. Tel: (02) 734-8883. Mobile number: (0919) 349-8473 (Two-6 Olangco).  Facebook: www.facebook.com/NarvacanOutdoorAdventureHub/. Instagram: @narvacanoutdooradventurehub.

How to Get There: By public transport, take any Vigan City (Ilocos Sur) or Laoag City (Ilocos Norte) bound Partas  (Cubao) or Farinas Transit (Manila) bus and tell the driver to drop you off at the Sulvec Port Road and, from there, get a tricycle going to NOAH in Bantay Abot. By car, take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), and Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEX) or the Manila North Road until you reach Narvacan. From there, take the Sulvec Port Road on the left and go straight until you see NOAH’s Arko Restauarant on your right.

Kampong Ayer (Brunei)

Kampong Ayer - The Water Village

Kampong Ayer – The Water Village

This Water Village (MalayKampung Air), along the banks of the Sungai Brunei (Brunei River), is an area situated over Brunei Bay that is home to a sizable population of 39,000, representing roughly 10% of the nation’s total population.  The district, a culturally important part of Brunei that preserves the nation’s river dwelling origins, has a unique architectural heritage of wooden homes with ornate interiors.

The mainland jetty

The mainland jetty

Built entirely of stilt houses and wooden walkways, it is the world’s largest water village and the most famous water settlement of Southeast Asia.  One of the most important centers of trade in Borneo, people have lived in Kampong Ayer for over 1,300 years. When the fleet of Ferdinand Magellan visited in 1521, Venetian scholar Antonio Pigafetta dubbed it the “Venice of the East.” Kampong Ayer has been the capital of the Brunei Sultanate for hundreds of years.

The modern-looking, 20-pax bot penambang (covered water taxis)

Boarding our modern-looking, 20-pax bot penambang (covered water taxi)

The author (right) with members of BEAT

The author (right) with members of BEAT (led by president Mr. York Virtucio at left) on board our water taxi

The establishment of the land town, acting as a population magnet, did not lead to its depopulation and arrival of new residents and natural increase maintained the population balance. Most of Kampong Ayer had survived heavy World War II bombardment. Around 2013-2014, smart new, two story stilt houses made of concrete were built in the center of the Kampong Ayer and given to the people in need of a new house but not wishing to live on land. Even today, many Bruneians still prefer the lifestyle of the water village to residency on dry land.

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View of the mainland

The villages on the river’s north bank (the same side as the city center) used to cover a much larger area, but many of the stilt houses have been razed to spruce up the waterfront area around the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.

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Entering the narrow waterway

We were to have a personal experience of this heritage as we took one of the many 20-pax bot penambang (modern-looking, covered water taxis) that provide rapid transit daily between the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah, in the center of town, and the water village itself. Our private water taxis resembled a long wooden speedboat. Before leaving the jetty, we all wore life jackets.

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A foot bridge

The Water Village is really made up of a cluster of 42 small, contiguous and relatively cramped stilt villages (kampongs) linked together by more than 29,140 m. of foot-bridges.

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This self-contained, close-knit community consists of over 4,200 structures, including homes, mosques, restaurants, shops, schools and a hospital, all interconnected by maze of 36 kms. of boardwalks. All of the six water village mukims (districts) are collectively known as the water village (Kampong Ayer) but, for administrative purposes, are identified as separate mukims.

mosque

One of two mosques

fire-department

The marine fire brigade

From a distance the water village looked like a slum but it actually enjoys modern amenities. The government, through the District Office, has provided it with numerous facilities including foot-bridges, concrete jetties, piped water, plumbing, electricity, telephones, schools, two mosques, clinics, seafood restaurants, a police station, a museum and a marine fire station.

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A colorfully painted house on stilts

Many of the houses also have air conditioning, satellite television and internet access. Some of the residents even keep potted plants, in container gardens, and raise chickens. They even say that if you look at the main roads on the banks opposite the village, you’ll see luxury cars lined up on the shoulder of the road.  Many of these cars belong to water-village residents.

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A village jetty

The wooden, sun-bleached houses, painted with shades of green, blue, pink and yellow, have not been done-up for tourists. From afar, we could see the 30 km. long Temburong Bridge, which is still under construction (it is expected to be completed in 2019), and the golden roof of the largest residential place in the world, the Sultan’s Istana Nurul Iman.  We made our first and only stopover at a village jetty.  Getting off the boat was an adventure on its own as we had to climb some worn-out concrete steps.

A second mosque

A second mosque

The unfinished Temburong Bridge

The unfinished Temburong Bridge

Upon reaching the top of the jetty, we walked along a treacherous, banister-less boardwalk, some with loose or missing planks, again another adventure by itself. Walking along these planked walkways (a bit of balance is required) while observing the various homes is probably what draws visitors here. However, while the houses were far from squalid, we noticed rubbish floating or carpeting the inter-tidal mud at low tide. For an apparently affluent country like Brunei which could afford to tidy it up, it was disgusting and disappointing.

Climbing the stairs up the jetty

Climbing the stairs up the jetty

We finally arrived at a local concrete home which was way too nice to be anything close to an authentic village house. The entry hall even had a chandelier. Just like in a mosque, we had to remove our shoes before entering.  Inside, there were lots of tourists like us. Obviously, it’s part of the tourist trail.  There, a good refreshment was served – 3 kinds of colorful kuih bingka, a local traditional sweet cake, plus tea. Our snack here capped our Water Village tour and we again made our back to our boat for the trip back to the mainland.

Traversing the wooden boardwalk

Traversing the wooden boardwalk

Removing our shoes prior to entering

Removing our shoes prior to entering

Our tour of the nondescript Kampong Ayer wasn’t really a visit into the past. Rather, it was just a peek into the everyday lives of some very friendly Bruneians while seeing some of the changes that has taken place over the last thousand years or so. Interesting but not amazing. Venice it isn’t by a mile.

Three different kinds of kuih bingka

Three different kinds of kuih bingka

Kampong Ayer: Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei.  Kampong Ayer is accessible by boat or land bridges. To get across the river, just stand somewhere where a water taxi can dock and flag one down (the fare is B$1, one way). To get to these villages from the Yayasan Complex, itself built on the site of a one-time water village, follow the plank walks, behind the Hua Ho Department Store, that lead west, parallel to the river.