The Road to Sagada (Mountain Province)

From Baguio City, we left for Sagada around 9:30 AM, Tuesday, April 7, on board an ordinary Lizardo Transit bus from the Dangwa Tranco terminal, off  Magsaysay Ave..  Once outside Baguio City, my mobile phone became useless.   The 151-km. trip from Baguio City to Sagada passes through the spectacular 146-km. Halsema (named  after Engr. Eusebius Julius Halsema, American civil engineer and mayor of Baguio City, 1920-36) Mountain Highway. It was originally a foot trail used by mountain folk and was improved and widened by the Americans. The highest highway system in the country, it was formerly called the “Mountain Trail” and it links La Trinidad and Baguio City with Bontoc.  It took more than 15 years to build and was finished in 1936.

View of dried up rice terraces

The trip took all of 7 hrs. (including stops for lunch and snacks) as we cut through mountain peaks, gorges and  steep cliffs, cross deep ravines and skirted dangerous slopes.  It could have been shorter but more than half of the drive was over rough, dusty and unpaved roads.  Jandy had a case of biyahilo (travel dizziness) and threw up.  Some sections were so narrow that only one vehicle could pass at a time. A narrow section over one treacherous gorge was simply breathtaking (but I was afraid to look out the window).   It was the peak of the El Nino phenomena and a number of the terraces were dry.  Smoke from some small forest fires could also be seen in the distance. Still the drive was scenic all the way as we passed through some of the most spectacular mountain vistas found anywhere. We also passed the highest point of all Philippine highways  – at Km. 50 near Bayangan,  2,225 m. above sea level.  Here, where the road crosses 2,450-m. high Mt. Paoay, we had good views  of Mt. Pulog, Kabayan, Atok and the Agno Valley.  Too bad we didn’t  stop.   

Gigantes Island Hopping (Carles, Iloilo)

Gigante Norte Island

After a hearty breakfast with the whole group at the coffee shop, a hectic schedule of island hopping awaited us.   We left Balbagon Island, together with other resort guests, by 10 AM. on board a large outrigger boat.  Along the way we passed many of the beautiful islands that the Gigantes are known for.  After about 30 mins., we reached our first destination: the southern side of Brgy. Gabi in Gigante Norte Island.  Our boat docked along a steep rocky wall.  As it was high tide, our climbed up the wall was shorter.  Upon reaching the top of the wall, we beheld before us  a hidden lagoon with clear, shallow waters  surrounded by steep and rugged limestone cliffs covered with sparse vegetation.

A hidden lagoon called Tangke

Calm, circular and lake-like lagoons (doubtless from the Spanish word laguna meaning “lake”) such as these are found in low latitude countries such as the Philippines.  They have openings to the sea, always leeward of prevailing winds, but are protected from it by a sandbar or coral reef.  Here, the clear shallow waters rise and fall with the tides.   According to one theory, lagoons are formed when hard coral growth in the center fails to keep pace with those on the periphery.  Waves and storms disintegrate coral in the center and pile them up at the margin, increasing the height of the island which in the course of time become covered by vegetation.

This salt water lagoon before us was locally called Tangke (“tank”).  The lagoon’s rugged limestone periphery, weathered to an incredibly rough surface, are of organic origin.  They are formed by the accumulation of the calcareous skeletons of marine animals and plants, mainly coral and coralline algae.  Its flora is sparse, mostly a few widely distributed strand plants and trees.   Living coral polyps continually extend the fringe. Such was the beauty of the place that we can’t wait to get into our swimming outfits and dip in its shallow, sparklingly clear waters.  Simply Heaven! Other members of the party opted to climb its lofty cliffs in an effort to be physically (and dangerously) nearer to their Creator.  The place is also a 15-min. boat ride east of Sitio Langub.

Little Boracay

After about 30 mins. of lolling around the lagoon, we again boarded our pumpboat for our next destination, a beach called “Little Boracay.”   We arrived at 11:10 AM.  The beach before us was truly a mini-version of the country’s number one destination, albeit shorter.  The other difference is its seclusion.   The beach is backed by a steep, densely-vegetated limestone cliff and because of this there are no resorts. The turquoise waters were just as clear and the white sand beach gradually sloping and fine as sugar, with hardly any shells or pebbles.     Jandy and Cheska were soon off swimming in the shallow waters as our portable monobloc chairs and tables and beach umbrellas were unloaded.  Lunch was served al fresco in food warmers by the beach and eaten kamayan style.  And what a lunch it was!  Tropical paradise at its best.

The sandbar of Cabugao Gamay Island

We would have wanted to stay longer in this beautiful, secluded beach but our itinerary dictated otherwise as we had to leave for our next destination.  After packing our stuff, it was off to another boat ride to an inhabited Cabugao Gamay Island which had a very long, treeless sandbar with beige sand.  We arrived by 1 PM and were greeted by a native selling to us a sea turtle secured by a rope tied around a notch at the rear of its shell.  What a sorry sight.  Poor fellow.  We refused his offer.

After the usual photo shoot for posterity, it was back to our boat for the return trip.  We were back at the resort by 2 PM.  Our island hopping tour was the highlight of our trip to Balbagon and the Gigantes Islands.  Too bad, all good things must come to pass.  The next day, we all left the island early in the morning for the boat trip back to Estancia and the long and tiring land trip to Iloilo City where we had lunch and took the last flight back to Manila, arriving there by 5 PM.

Balbagon Island: Coral Cay Resort (Carles, Iloilo)

Coral Cay Resort in Balbagon Island

The Gigantes Islands, located off northeast Panay in Carles (Iloilo), first came into prominence long before Boracay became a byword  in the tourism industry.  In the 1970s and 80s, its luxurious Sicogon Island Club was one of the first beach resort hotels in the country to achieve international recognition. Its happy days ended when the resort closed down in 1989.  There is more to the Gigantes than just Sicogon as it still has 100 small, rugged, idyllic and fascinating islands, most with white sand beaches, plus hills covered with spectacular first and second growth virgin forests, hidden coves, and many massive wind-carved and steep rock formations containing many deep, cathedral-like granite and marble caves. It also has rich marine life and simple fishing villages inhabited by 300 families.   My wife Grace’s outfit for many years now, E. Ganzon Inc., owned and developed a resort called Coral Cay Resort on Balbagon Island.  We decided to give it a visit after Christmas Day.

Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia

I, together with Grace, 11 year old Jandy and 7 year old Cheska left on the early morning Philippine Airlines flight to Iloilo City.  Joining us were Atty. Jose Salazar, his wife and kids and Grace’s fellow E.G.I Properties employees Mr. Disney Sevilla, Ms. Marivic Santiago, Ms. Carol Reyes and Ms. Rhoda Evora.  At the airport, we were picked up by a company van that would take us on a 135.6-km.  (3.5-hr.) long-haul drive to Villa Lily Beach Resort in Estancia, jump-off point to more than 20 of the islands of the Gigantes including Balbagon Island.    

Arrival at Balbagon Island

Upon arrival at the hilltop resort, we waited 30 mins. for the arrival of company boat that would bring us, together with other guests, to the island. The 8 nautical mile long boat trip took about an hour, passing by the large Gigantes islands of Binulangan and Calagnaan as well as the smaller islands of Tabugon, Tulunan-an and Ojastras before reaching the relatively flat, fish-shaped island of Balbagon.  As there was no pier on Balbagon, we alighted a la MacArthur, getting our feet wet before reaching dry land.

The 42-hectare, 1.5-km. long Balbagon Island is located near Gigante Sur Island and is a 20-min. boat ride from the island’s Brgy. Lantangan. Upon our arrival here, we were billeted in one of Coral Cay Resort’s 10 airconditioned cottages. Each cottage, with its bamboo-cladded interior walls and exterior walls cladded with split coconut logs, has its own tiled bathroom and verandah.  This  Class “A” resort also has 25 fan-cooled cottages with bath and a coffee shop/restaurant.

A Balbagon sunset

On our first night on the island, a torch-lit dinner was served al fresco under the stars along its dazzling white sand beach lined with prickly aroma trees. Seafood, consisting of crabs, shrimps and fish, was the “standard” cuisine and was mostly eaten by many in the kamayan style.  The next two days at the resort were packed with stress-free fun: swimming, sunbathing, shell picking, eating, camaraderie, videoke, waiting for the beautiful sunset  or simply just relaxing by the beach and reading a good book.  No work, TV, telephones, pollution, noise and traffic jams. Our 12th wedding anniversary on the 28th (Ninos Inocentes) was spent quietly in much the same way.  Disney and I circumnavigated the island’s 3 km. long shoreline in about 30 mins., passing by a rocky shore where sea birds roost as well as the nearby barangay.  We also walked along the exposed reef at low tide. Along the way, we discovered a beached basket sponge which we brought back to the resort.

Tops Lookout (Cebu City, Cebu)

After breakfast at the Zodiac Restaurant at the hotel, Grace, Jandy, Cheska and I joined Grace’s fellow EGI employees who were going, via van, to the popular Tops Lookout (better known as “Tops”), a must-visit viewpoint situated 2,000 ft. (610 m.) atop Busay Hill. On our long drive up the hill’s steep, winding road, we passed by Cebu Plaza Hotel where Grace and I stayed over a decade ago for our honeymoon. 

Tops Lookout

About 4 kms. past the hotel, we finally reached Tops and paid the required parking fee and admission fee for each of us.  This modernist, fortress-like and well-maintained viewpoint has kiosks where we could buy snacks and drinks; toilet facilities and benches where we could sit and have a breathtaking, panoramic view of Cebu City, Mactan and Olango Islands and Bohol in the  background.

Our breathtaking view

It was very windy and a bit chilly while we were there.  Other ideal times for a visit are during sunrise or sunset up to the wee hours of evening when you can see the city basking in lights.

Tops Lookout: Brgy. Malubog, Busay, Cebu City, Cebu. Admission: PhP100/pax

Residence Inn Zoo (Tagaytay City, Cavite)

From the 41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine, Jandy and I continued on our way to Residence Inn.  As it was along the highway, it was easy to find.  There’s an entrance fee.  The inn,  which also has an excellent view of Taal Volcano and Lake, has airconditioned accommodations and a restaurant.

Check out “41st Division P.A. USAFFE Shrine“

However, we were just there on a 1-day tour of its mini-zoo which is more like an interactive petting zoo as, at the entrance, fresh fruits and other food  are sold to visitors who want to feed the animals (except the tigers).  The zoo has a menagerie of 30 or so animals,  some caged while others were free-roaming.

Jandy beside a free-roaming cassowary
A caged tiger

The first animals we saw were the noisily chirping parrots and cockatoos, some caged while others were out, tied loosely to their perches.  Also near the entrance were pythons, fishes and a tiger cub.  There were also screaming monkeys, caged Malay civet cats and tigers, free-roaming peacocks, ponies, llamas,  a free-roaming cassowary, wild pigs and crocodiles.  The zoo could actually be toured in an hour.

A caged crocodile
A python in a glass case

Residence Inn: Km. 65, Brgy. Neogan, Tagaytay City, Cavite. Tel: (632) 899-9829 (Manila)

San Juanico Bridge (Tacloban City, Leyte)

After breakfast at the Filamor Residence, Grace, Jandy, Cheska and I, together with Manny, Paula, Mark, Nenette, Daddy, Mommy and Cheska’s new friend Kookie Bal left for our tour of Tacloban City.  We secured the services of a guide and a van at the Department of Tourism Region 8 office.  Our first destination was to be the San Juanico Bridge, the longest bridge in the country as well as Southeast Asia.   At the foot of the San Juanico Bridge is the 15-hectare, Japanese-funded multi-million peso National Maritime Polytechnic, a  merchant marine training school and the most modern graduate institution for seamen in Asia.  

Posing along the San Juanico Bridge
 
We finally made our way midway up the bridge and made a short stopover.  Here, we had a panoramic view of the San Juanico Strait, located between the islands of Leyte and Samar.  It is considered the narrowest but most navigable strait in the world.   The strait has a number of beautiful islets.     The San Juanico Bridge, which crosses this strait, is also called the Marcos Bridge.  Inaugurated on July 2, 1973 and located 10 kms. from Tacloban City, it is a major link in the 3,000-km. Pan-Philippine Highway.  
 
San Juanico Strait
 
This impressive S-shaped bridge, said to be the most beautifully designed bridge in the country, is 2,162.4 m. (7,092 ft.) long, 10.62 m. wide with 43 spans and towers 41 m. above the sea at its highest point.    The S-shaped structure on the Samar side had to be adopted to make use of the importance of the existing islet, the Cabalauan islet that lies in the middle of the strait.  This islet serves as resting point and provides added support to the massive structure soaring over the swift currents of the strait.

Daliran Cave and Roca Encantada (Buenavista, Guimaras)

Daliran Cave and Spring

Our next stopover (3:30 PM) was at the Villa Fe Summer Resort, in Brgy. Old Poblacion, Buenavista, a 5-min. hike from the wharf.  Frank and his family, together with a local guide, decided to go spelunking and explore the resort’s  Daliran Cave, the most accessible cave in Guimaras, and its cold fresh water spring and stalactites.  The rest, including me and my family, just waited outside.  Inside, they got down and dirty with guano (bat droppings) as they communed with its denizens of the dark.   Yuck!

Posing outside Roca Encantada

Our final sightseeing stop (5 PM) was Roca Encantada (Enchanted Rock), the summer vacation home of the Lopez family, one of the oldest grand clans of Iloilo and Guimaras. Emily Relucio Lopez was Guimaras’ first governor. We were allowed entry by the caretaker.

The grand balcony of Roca Encantada

The mansion, accessed by a long flight of stairs, was built in 1910 by Presentacion Hofilena-Lopez on a promontory on one of 7 picturesque rock islets of the Siete Pecados (Seven Sins) Islands, in Brgy. Getulio. From its grand, spacious and airy balcony, we got a panoramic view of the beachfront, the Iloilo Strait and the 6 remaining islands. A lighthouse is situated on the largest islet.

Presenting the Siete Pecados

The Trappist Abbey (Jordan, Guimaras)

Trappist Monastery chapel

After lunch at the resort, we all availed of an afternoon sightseeing tour by jeepney.  Our first stop (2 PM) was the Trappist Abbey.  It was founded in 1972 and is the first and only one of its kind in the country and in the Orient.  The Trappist (or Cisterians of the Most Strict Observance) monks, who called Guimaras the “Island of a Happy Man,” follow the rules of St. Benedict and all adhere to a vow of silence. They take care of the Aeta community through the Contemplative Outreach Program, grow Philippine lemon (kalamansi) and pioneer fruit processing in the province.   

The Gift Shop

We dropped by the monastery’s Gift Shop where religious items (crucifixes, prayer books, rosaries, etc.) and excellent processed food products such  as jam, chutney, prunes, wines, marmalade, candies, ginger tea, cookies, piyaya and jelly (all made from mango, cashew, kamias, duhat, kalamansi and guava) are sold.  Grace bought a small crucifix.  We also bought some snacks and soft drinks.  Grace, Jandy, Cheska and I also visited its small but quaint chapel.  At the side of the walkway leading to the chapel are an array of 3 small bells.

An array of small bells

Trappist Abbey: Brgy.  San Miguel, Jordan, Guimaras. Fax: (033) 581-3468.

Windsurfing in Guimaras

Learning the basics ….

Come morning, Frank, Jaja and I took our first lessons in windsurfing from the resort’s lady instructor.  It was a breezy morning but learning to windsurf wasn’t a breeze at all.  In winds stronger than about 8 knots and also depending on the size of sail used, the rig is actually pulled to windward over the sailor. The force of the wind pushed the rig upwards towards a vertical position, increasing the sail area presented to the wind which, in turn, increased the wind force on the sail. 

Trying my hand at windsurfing
At the same time, the sailor is being pulled to a more upright position to leeward. The whole setup is therefore inherently unstable. During my trial, I did not take any action to counter this and, as a consequence, was pulled over completely to leeward, ending up in the water.  Thus, trying to keep my balance, much less raise the sail, proved to be quite an ordeal.  Only Frank was successful, albeit for a few seconds.  Well better luck next time.

Igang Point Fisheries Research Station (Nueva Valencia, Guimaras)

Island hopping tour
The morning of the next day, Good Friday, was spent on an island-hopping tour.  Some of the islands were the 2.5-hectare Isla Naburot (home to a eco-friendly resort owned by Alice and Ponciano “Pons” Saldana) and the 1,544 sq. m. Tiniguiban Islet (where rare red shrimps make their appearance inside a pool during high tide). Past the latter is the highlight of our tour – the Igang Point Fisheries Research Station in Nueva Valencia, a government-run aquatic fishery center.  
 
Situated on a coral reef cove, it embraces 4 islands interconnected by floating bridges.  This demonstration and training facility of the Southeast Asian Fisheries Development Center (SEAFDEC) promotes cage farming technology for marginal fishers.  It is home to brood stocks of milkfish (bangus),  giant grouper (lapu-lapu), sea bass, red snappers and other fishes in huge floating cages.   In this cages, fishes mature and spawn spontaneously during the normal breeding seasons.

AUTHOR’S NOTES

Today, milkfish cultured in marine cages provides livelihood to 4 Nueva Valencia barangays (Igang, Magamay, San antonio and Sto. Domingo) affected by the major oil spill in 2006. They were given operational capital for the construction of fish cages.  Income from the production runs was given to 5 organizations now operating cages on their own, with the assistance of SEAFDEC who taught villagers integrated culture and alternate day feeding to improve production.