Osaka Castle Park (Osaka, Japan)

Osaka Castle Park

On our second whole day in Japan, we began our Osaka city tour with a stopover at 105.6-hectare (about 260 acres) Osaka Castle Park (known as Osakajo-koen in Japanese), a public urban park and historical site opened to the public in 1931.  The second largest park in the city, it lies on the south of the Ōkawa (Kyū-Yodo River) and occupies a large area in the center of the city of Osaka. It was well worth a visit, even if we didn’t intend to enter the castle. 

Osaka Castle

Forming the most attractive part of Osaka, here we can also view and enjoy seasonal flowers such as plum blossoms, 3,000 cherry blossoms (we arrived at the last week of March) and azaleas. This green and spacious expanse, built around the awe-inspiring tower of Osaka Castle (known as Osaka-jo in Japanese, the present castle is a concrete reconstruction that was finished in 1995), provided a pleasant escape from the otherwise crowded and concrete expanses of the rest of the city. 

Cherry blossoms

The castle grounds, which cover approximately 61,000 sq. m. (15 acres), contains 13 structures, around the 55 m. high main central tower, that were denoted as “Important Cultural Assets” by the Japanese government. They are Otemon Gate, Sakura-mon Gate, Ichiban-yagura Turret, Inui-yagura Turret, Rokuban-yagura Turret, Sengan Turret, Tamon Turret, Kinmeisui Well, Kinzo Storehouse and the Enshogura Gunpowder Magazine.

The author, Grace, Mark, Miguel, Nenette, Matthew and Jandy at Osaka Castle Park
The author, Jandy and Grace

Surrounding the main keep are a series of moats and defensive fortifications. The castle has an inner and an outer moat. The former, lying within the castle grounds, consists of two types: wet (northern-easterly) and dry (south-westerly), while the latter surrounds the entire castle, denoting its outer limits, and consists of four water-filled sections, each representing a cardinal direction (North, East, South, West).

Castle moat

Aoyamon Gate, in the northeast, and Ote-mon Gate, in the opposing southwest, are two main sentry checkpoints at the outer moat. Three sections of ‘dobei’ mud-and-plaster wall, all located around the Otemon Gate, all have their own Important Cultural Property status.

Otemon Gate

There are also some megaliths, with no cultural property status, at the castle, including the Takoishi (Octopus stone). The Fushimi-yagura Turret Remains, Ensho-gura Gunpowder Storehouse, Osaka Geihinkan, Hoshoan Tea House, Osaka Castle Nishinomaru Garden, Sengan-yagura Turret, Tamon-yagura Turret, Remains of Taiko-yagura Turret, Osaka Shudokan Martial Arts Hall, Hokoku Shrine (Osaka), Ichiban-yagura Turret (the first turret), and Plum Grove are all located between the inner and outer moat.

Sakuramon Gate

You can cross the inner moat via the Gokuraku-bashi Bridge (or Paradise Bridge), located in the north, and Sakuramon Gate, the main sentry point in the south.

Huge stones at Sakuramon-masugata Square

The Hommaru (Inner Bailey) and the Yamazato-Maru Bailey divides the castle into two major areas within the inner moat. The Main Tower, the Kimmeisui Well, the Japanese Garden, the Takoishi (Octopus Stone), the Gimmeisui Well, the Miraiza Osakajo Complex, the Kinzo Treasure House, and the “Time capsule Expo’70” are located within the Hommaru while the Marked-Stones Square, and the Monument commemorating “Hideyori and Yodo-dono committing suicide” are within the Yamazato-Maru, Bailey.

Expo ’70 Time Capsule

The Time Capsule Expo ’70 is a stainless-steel monument which marks the site of the 1970 Japan World Exposition time capsule buried 15 m., in 1971, by Panasonic and The Mainichi Newspapers.  The two identical capsules contain 2,098 everyday items from 1970 Time Capsule Expo ’70.

Site of Ichi-tamon Turret
Sengan-yagura Turret

In the park, there is Osaka Castle Hall, a large athletic field, baseball field, football field, open-air music theatre, open-air concert hall, and Osaka Castle Keep Tower where, from its top, the vista includes Osaka Bay to Mount Ikoma, which surround the Osaka Plain. Many busking groups perform in the park.

Tamon-Yagura Turret

The Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum, opened to the public last April 2025, allows visitors to view, firsthand, the original Toyotomi stone walls that had been hidden, for over 400 years, since the Toyotomi forces were defeated in the Summer Campaign of Osaka in 1615 and the Tokugawa Osaka Castle was built over them.

Toyotomi Stone Wall Museum

The three-storey Miraiza Osaka-Jo, right beside the iconic Osaka Castle Main Tower, is a historical complex housed in a former military headquarters built in 1931.  It offers the Kaiyodo Figure Museum, rooftop cafes with castle views, and samurai and ninja experiences where you can dress up in authentic gear and try stage combat sword-fighting in the basement.

Miraiza Osaka-Jo

Osaka Castle Park: 1-1 Osakajo, Chūō-ku, Osaka, 540-0002 Japan. Admission is free. Tel: 06-6755-4146. Coordinates: 34°41′14″N 135°31′33″E.

How to Get There: On Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line, get off at Tenmabashi or Tanimachi 4-chome Station. On Osaka Metro Chuo Line, get off at Morinomiya or Tanimachi 4-chome Station. On the JR Loop Line, get off at Morinomiya or Osaka Castle Park Station.

St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral (Cagayan de Oro City, Misamis Oriental)

St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral

Just walking distance from the City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center is the Neo-Gothic-style St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral, the ecclesiastical seat of the Archdiocese of Cagayan de Oro (canonically erected on January 23, 1933).

Check out “City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center

The Neo-Gothic-style facade

This church was first built in 1624 by Father Agustin San Pedro but both church and convent burned down in 1778.  Rebuilt in 1780 by Father Pedro de Santa Barbara, it again burned down in 1831.

The cathedral interior

In 1845, it was rebuilt with coral stones imported from China by Augustinian Recollect Father Simon Loscos de Sta. Catalina but it was destroyed during the World War II bombardment in 1945.  Only the facade and the wooden cross in front survived.

A 1925 photo of the church’s original Baroque-style facade

The present Neo-Gothic-style cathedral was built from 1946 to 1951 by Archbishop James T.G. Hayes, S.J.D.D., the first bishop of Cagayan de Oro.

AUTHOR’S NOTES:

Comparing an old 1925 and present photo of the church, the Baroque-style facade of the church seemed to have survived the 1945 bombing but it was greatly altered during the rebuilding.  The semicircular arched windows were replaced by Gothic-style lancet windows, a portico was added and the finials at the ends of the triangular pediment (its raking cornice now adorned with drip molding) were not restored.

Only the base (now square), of the formerly octagonal bell tower (beneath which is the grave of Father Ramon Zueco de San Joaquin who died in 1889 in Cagayan de Oro), on church’s left, remains. A new bell tower, on the church’s right was, instead, built.

Stained glass window

Its nine century-old stained glass windows, the work of well-known masters, depict the life of Christ and came from the Chapel of the Sisters of the Sacred Heart (now the Church of the Sacred Hearts of Mary and Jesus), an old  Gothic-style chapel built in 1882 in New York.

Stained glass window

The bells, hung in the new bell tower in 1950, were fashioned from the church’s old bells shattered during World War II – San Agustin (1807), Santa Ana (1813) and El Salvador (1857).

The Relic Chapel

Just outside the porte-cochere is a wooden Sta. Cruz built by Augustinian Recollect friars in 1888, the only relic that remains of the church’s Hispanic past.

The Spanish-era wooden cross

St. Augustine Metropolitan Cathedral: Barangay I, Cagayan de Oro City, Misamis Oriental.  Tel: (088) 857-2139.  Feast of St. Augustine, Bishop of Hippo: August 28.

How to Get There: Cagayan de Oro City is located 94.4 kilometers (a 2-hour drive) from Malaybalay City (Bukidnon) and 88.7 kilometers (a 1.75-hour drive) from Iligan City (Lanao del Norte).

City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center (Misamis Oriental)

City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center

We still had time to kill as we made our way to Laguindingan Airport for our return flight to Manila, so Wyller Manus, our Bukidnon tour guide, suggested we make a stopover at Cagayan de Oro City to visit the 3-storey City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center.

Museum facade

Here, we were welcomed and toured around the museum by Mr. Jesus Christopher “JC” F. Salon, acting curator of the museum.

Mr. Christopher F. Salon (third from left) discussing the Higaunon Bancaso (ritual table)

Located across the street from Gaston Park, this museum, a fine example of adaptive reuse, is housed in an old cylindrical water tower that sourced water, for 3,000 people, from Mahuganao Spring, Brgy. Cugman in Malasag Hills.

Exhibit on the indigenous people of Cagayan de Oro

Built from 1919 to 1922, it survived the September 1944 American bombing during World War II and is considered as the city’s oldest known surviving public structure.

Exhibit on Cagayan de Oro’s early history

In the late 1970s, the National Waterworks and Sewerage Authority (NAWASA) took over the water system and stopped using the tower and it was abandoned.

Exhibit on Spanish Period

Between 1994 to 2000, it was used as a temporary office of Barangay 1 and, in 2001, it was used as a makeshift darkroom by photographers from the Golden Friendship Photographers Association, Inc. (GoFPAI).

Spiral stairs leading to second floor

On December 1, 2008, then City Mayor Constantino Jarula had the tank renovated and turned into a city museum.

Exhibit on Cagayan de Oro during the American Period

The museum houses old photographs of the city’s significant events and personalities; fascinating exhibits that trace the city’s evolution, from its early indigenous roots to its contemporary developments; as well as a diverse collection of some archaeological finds.

Bamboo spikes used by guerillas to trap and maim enemy targets

Its well-curated displays provide insights into the indigenous cultures, colonial influences, and the vibrant community life that defines Cagayan de Oro. The floors are accessed via spiral staircases.

Rayadillo uniform and sword

A Philippine bolo and a Japanese sword

At the Ramon and Rosario Chavez Gallery, at the first floor, JC first showed us the Higaunon Bancas0 (ritual table), a very important cultural artifact of the indigenous Higaunon community.

Third floor gallery

The Filomeno M. Bautista Gallery, at the second floor, showcases the history of the city during the Philippine-American War (notably the battle around 1900) and World War II.

Third floor gallery

The third floor houses the museum’s newest exhibit (opened last November 21) which showcases the history and modernization of the city after World War II.

The motorela

A notable artifact here is the Parker 51 fountain pen used to sign Republic Act No. 521, the law that created the city.

An antique radio

City Museum of Cagayan de Oro and Heritage Studies Center: Gaston Park, Fernandez St., Brgy.1, 9000 Cagayan de Oro City, Misamis Oriental.  Mobile number: (0915) 881-0719.  E-mail: hccc.cdo@gmail.com. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8 AM to 5 PM.

Old Guiob Church (Catarman, Camiguin)

Old Guiob Church Ruins

After our merienda at The Beehive, we again boarded our multicab for the short 3.3-km. (10-min.) drive to the Church of St. Roche Ruins, our last destination.  Also called the Old Gui-ob Church (Cotta Batto), it is Camiguin’s version of Albay’s Cagsawa Ruins.

Check out “The Beehive” and “Cagsawa Church Ruins

Entrance to the ruins

The National Cultural Treasure plaque

This coral and stone-hewn church, built in 1623 as the parish of San Roque (St. Roche), was half buried by lava flows during the May 1, 1871 eruption of Mt. Hibok-Hibok that created the 838-meter high Vulcan Daan (locally called Tandang Bulkan), a volcanic fissure that spewed out lava and destroyed the town.

Check out “Old Guiob Church Ruins (2001)

All that remains are haunting ruins of the 400-year old church, the rectory and, at the back of the church, the base of the bell tower, beside which is a centuries-old camel tree (locally called doldol). Near the tower is a modern, solar-powered lighthouse.

During my first visit in 2001, a small chapel has been built within the ruins but it has now been removed.

On September 28, 2017, 16 years after our first visit, the church ruins, the nearby Sunken Cemetery and the Moro watchtower were declared as National Cultural Treasures by the National Museum of the Philippines.

Check out “Sunken Cemetery

The author (left) with his son Jandy

The moss-covered, roofless ruins, shaded by large trees,  is now a popular tourist attraction in the province and is a peaceful place to roam around.

Church of St. Roche Ruins: National Highway, Brgy.Bonbon, Catarman, Camiguin. Admission: Php50/pax.

How to Get There: The ruins are located 16 kilometers from Catarman and 20 kilometers from Mambajao proper.

Church of St. Joseph the Worker (Ivana, Batanes)

Church of St. Joseph the Worker

This church, first built as a chapel in 1787, was rebuilt, with stone and lime, by Father Francisco de Paula Esteban, OP, in 1795 and the bell tower was built by Father Jose Fausto de Cuevas, OP, from 1814 to 1817.   In 1844, it was renovated and, in 1854, its nave was shortened with the rear portion closed (today, ruins of the abandoned portion can still be seen).  From 1866 to 1869, the façade was repaired by Father Fabian Martin, OP.

The church complex

On September 18, 1898, Filipino revolutionaries hoisted their flag after renouncing their loyalty to Spain. On July 16, 2000, a magnitude 7 earthquake partially destroyed the church and, in 2001, Father Gumersindo Hernandez, OP, had it repaired.

The unusual buttresses of the separate bell tower

In 2008, the church was declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. This church, with three-meter thick walls, is the only one in the province not built in the espadaña style. 

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Institute (NHI) in 2008

AUTHOR’S COMMENTS:

The church’s façade, with Baroque and Moorish architectural influences, has a semicircular arched main entrance with jambs formed in a series of receding molded planes, with alternating semicircular and Moorish arches.  Flanking the entrance are blind semicircular and Moorish arches, framing statues on corbels, and massive flat pilasters (which rise up to the pediment) topped by pyramidal finials.  The undulating pediment has a rectangular window topped by a Moorish arch and flanked by blind rose windows.

Its separate fortress-like, three-storey square bell tower, on the church’s right, is the only one of its kind in the province.  It is supported by unusual buttresses, at the base, and has segmental  arched openings, with balusters, and a crenellated top. 

The church interior

Due to its elevation, the church offers a panoramic view of the sea and the surrounding countryside.  The convent, part of the church complex, has unusual circular masonry work near the stairway.

The main altar
The choir loft

Church of St. Joseph the Worker: National Road, Barangay Tuhel (Poblacion), Ivana, 3902 Batanes. Mobile number: (0977) 120-3307. Feast of St. Joseph the Worker: May 1.

How to Get There: Ivana is located 13.85 kilometers (a 15-minute drive) south Basco. The church is located in front of the town’s port.

Casa Real (Basco, Batanes)

Casa Real (now the Provincial Capitol Building)

After our tour of the Valugan Boulder Beach, we again boarded our van for the short 3-km. (10-min.) drive to the 2-storey Provincial Capitol Building.  Formerly the Casa Real, it was originally built from wood, during the term (1783-1785) of Don José Huelva y Megarejo, the province’s first governor.

Check out “Valugan Boulder Beach

The building was renovated during the term (1794-1798) of governor Felimon Zenoreta who introduced masonry in Batanes. On December 15, 1856, the Casa Real burned down and it was reconstructed, in stone, in 1872 during the term (1872-1885) of Governor Jose Serra.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2013

On September 18, 1898, Governor Julian Fortea, the last Spanish governor of Batanes, was killed here when revolutionaries stormed the building.  After World War II, under the Philippine Rehabilitation Act of 1946, the capital was restored including the façade.  The stairs was rebuilt to provide a grand entrance.

The Capitol was expanded, during the administration (1989-1998) of Governor Telesforo F. Castillejos, with the construction of the three annex buildings from August 1989 to January 1993 and, on March 18, 1993, the capitol was inaugurated by President Fidel V. Ramos.

During the term (1998-2007) of Governor Vicente Gato, the buildings in the capital building complex were expanded and renovated to address the need for provincial government’s offices. It was inaugurated on March 24, 2007.

Statue of Aman Dangat

To the left of the building is the Statue of Aman Dagat. Also known as Kenan, this mangpus (tribal leader) of Malakdang led about 150 Isabtangs who rose in revolt one moonless night in September 1791 and crossed the treacherous sea to attack the Spanish mission house on Batan Island, killing seven non-Ivatan agents of the Spanish government who poached fruits and timber from Sabtang without payment.

Historical plaque installed by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) in 2014

Aman Dagat was later hanged and the natives of Sabtang were exiled to the districts of San Felix and San Vicente in Ivana for the next 50 years (1791-1841).

Memorial to Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II

Behind this statue is the Memorial to the Veterans of the Philippine Revolution and World War II which was unveiled on June 25, 1993, the 210th founding anniversary of Batanes,

Kilometer Zero Marker

In front of the Casa Real is the Kilometer Zero Marker and the Bantayog-Wika. The former is the reference point where all distances on Batan Island are measured from.  It is one of three such in the province, the other being in Sabtang Island  (along the National Road, near the port and the Church of St. Vincent Ferrer) and the other in Itbayat  (within the Municipal Grandstand and park).

Check out “Church of St. Vincent Ferrer”

Bantayog-Wika

The Bantayog-Wika (Language Marker), a project of Sen. Loren Legarda, the local government and the Komisyon ng Wikang Filipino (KWF) recognizing the Ivatan language, was unveiled on April 8, 2019 (Basco Day).  This marker, the 14th installed in the country, seeks to identify areas where the country’s 130 languages originated.  Created by installation artist Luis “Junyee” Yee, Jr. in stainless steel, is inscribed (using laser technology), in baybayin letters, with several lines of Andres Bonifacio’s poem Pag-Ibig sa Tinubuang Bayan which was published in the first issue of Kalayaan, the Katipunan newsletter, in 1896.

Provincial Capitol Building: National Rd., 3900 Basco.  Mobile number: (0917) 326-3744.  E-mail: batanesinformation@gmail.com.

How to Get There: from Basco Airport, take the Diversion Road and turn left into National Road. The Provincial Capitol of Batanes is on the right side.

The Idjangs of Batanes

Thousands of years before Spanish colonization, about a thousand pre-Hispanic Ivatans utilized the strategic high ground, living in villages on fortified cliffs and hilltops scattered across today’s Uyugan. These fortified settlements near rocky natural fortresses were called idjangs, derived from the Ivatan word idi or idian, which means “home” or “hometown.” Much of what is known now about idjangs, only initiated in the 1990s, comes from the oral tradition of Ivatans.  These were compiled by native Ivatan Dr. Florentino Hornedo of UST, leading historian on anything relating to Batanes.

These castle-like structures, on elevated rock formations, resemble the gusuku castles of Okinawa (Japan) and some stone-terraced formations in Taiwan.   Pre-Hispanic Ivatans lived in communities of small clans.  During tribal wars for possessions or territory, the clans would climb the idjangs when attacked and throw stones down upon their attackers.

The idjang of Basco

There are 17 of these remnants of stone fortresses on large stone outcrops.  They are located at Brgy. Savidug (Sabtang), Itbayat, Ivana, Mahatao, Brgy. Itbud and Chapidan in Uyugan, Basco and Ivuhos Island (Chuhangin) and Adekey Island off Sabtang.  Artifacts found here include stone tools and implements, earthenware beads, pottery, glass, Chinese ceramics, and human and animal bones. boat-shaped burial markers.

Geologists surmise that the idjang in Basco is molten magma from Mt.  Iraya that cooled off to form a plug for an extinct volcanic crater.  The idjang in Brgy. Itbud (Uyugan) is located at a promontory at the southern end of a beach.

Mt. Iraya

Ancient limestone columns, with holes drilled at one end, are found littered on the idjang slopes.  They may have served as king posts for dwellings or may have once held down cogon dwellings against strong, battering winds.  Some have been recycled as posts for stone houses on Batan Island.  A wall at the idjang’s base (where a creek forks), was made with stones piled on top of each other.  Instead of mortar, they are just held together by pressure from the adjacent stones.

The Chuhangin idjang, in Ivuhos Island (Sabtang), is located on a ledge overlooking the sea and the island’s famed burial grounds.  This idjang is the only one whose sides were built by the ancient Ivatans with stones placed on top of the other without the use of mortar. The Nahini Votox idjang of Itbayat Island has a spectacular view of Dinem and the island’s eastern coast.

The idjang of Brgy. Savidug in Sabtang

The picturesque Savidug idjang, considered to be the most beautiful and perfectly shaped among the idjangs, appears to have been terraced by human hands to assume a castle-like formation. It is distinctly different from all the others in the province because its sides were carved to make entry more difficult.

Here, archaeologists have recovered, from different levels of the site, various earthenware shards, remains of wild boar and deer teeth, glass beads, shell, coral and bone fragments and some 12th century Sung type greenware.

Savidug Idjang: Brgy. Savidug, 3904 Sabtang.

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From Delta Discovery Park, it was a 9.3-km. (15-min.) drive to Bood Promontory and Eco-Park (or First Easter Mass Eco Park).  The highest elevation nearest to the seaside village of present-day Masao, it is located at a bend in the Masao River on a hill (called bood in Butuanon) overlooking the city.

Check out “Delta Discovery Park

Magellan’s Cross

Grotto of the Virgin Mary

The park has a historical marker commemorating the contested first Catholic mass in Mindanao held on April 8, 1521 plus a memorial cross and a tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others.

Tableau with statues of Ferdinand Magellan, Rajah Kolambu (King of Butuan) and Rajah Siyagu (King of Mazaua), among others

Nearby is a one-storey building housing an open-air function area plus oversized replicas of the Golden Tara (a 2-kg. (4.4-lb.), 21-karat gold statuette found, in 1917, at the banks of the Wawa River near Esperanza), and the Butuan Ivory Seal (an ivory stamp, seal stamp or a privy seal, dated 9th – 12th century, found in Brgy. Libertad).

Function Hall

Open-air function area

The park, situated in a non-protected 72-hectare agroforestry land, is also home to a small grotto of the Virgin Mary, walking trails and picnic spots. About 75% of the area is dominated by mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), yakal, Philippine teak (locally called hadlayati in Butuanon), Antipolo, narra and molave trees.

Replica of Golden Tara

Replica of Butuan Ivory Seal

Bood Promontory and Eco-Park: Brgy. Pinamanculan, Butuan City. 8600 Agusan del Norte.  Tel: (085) 300-0270. Open 8 AM to 5 PM. Admission: Php50/pax. 

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  A 30-min. tricycle ride from Masao Beach, to get to the park you have to cross a hanging bridge. 

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Banza Church Ruins (Butuan City, Agusan del Norte)

Banza Church Ruins.  On the left is the mighty Agusan River, the third longest in the country

Part of Almont Inland Resort-sponsored Tour

From the Butuan Regional Museum, a 6.6km. (15-min.) drive brought us to the Banza Church Ruins, the oldest stone church ruins in Mindanao.  Getting there was very difficult, for first time visitors like us, as there are hardly any signs to point us in the right direction.

Check out “Butuan Regional Museum”

The balete tree enclosing the ruins of the church bell tower

This church, built by Augustinian Recollect friars beside the Agusan River (the third longest river in the country and the widest and most navigable in Mindanao) in 1625, was reputedly one of the most beautiful stone churches in the region.

The author and son Jandy beside the balete tree

However, in 1753, Moro pirates burned it down. Although the old church was rebuilt, it succumbed to decay and disuse when, in 1865, the town center was ordered transferred, by Surigao Province Gov. Manuel Boscasa, from Maug (Banza) to Baug (Magallanes).

Opening in the balete tree where you can see the interior wall of the bell tower

What is left of its former beauty is a bell tower engulfed inside a giant banyan (Ficus benjamina, locally called balete) tree.  From a small opening on the side of the tree, you can take a peek at the ruins and see its coralstone wall.

The steeple-like kiosk with pyramidal roof and balustrade

The ceiling of the kiosk

The steeple-like kiosk, with its pyramidal roof and balustrade, besides it houses a marble marker (its upper right hand corner chipped off) narrating the history of the place.  The place is a great spot to view the mighty 349 km. long Agusan River and to watch the sunset.

The slightly damaged marble historical plaque

Banza Church Ruins: Lilo, Brgy. Banza, 8600 Butuan City.

How to Get There: Cebu Pacific Air has 20 daily flights from Manila to Butuan City.  Located 6.8 kms. (a 15-20 min. drive) from the city center, from the main highway, travel 2.5 kms. then take the track on the left. After 500 m., veer left again.

Almont Inland Resort: J. C. Aquino Ave. (formerly Zamora St.), Brgy. Imadejas, 8600 Butuan City.  Tel: (085) 300-0296. Mobile number: +63977 674 3412. Email:  fo.inlandresort@almont.com.ph. Website: www.almont.com.ph/almontinlandresort.

Greyfriars Kirkyard (Edinburgh, Scotland, U.K.)

Greyfriars Kirkyard

On our way to St. Giles Cathedral, we made a stopover at Greyfriars Kirkyard, the graveyard surrounding Greyfriars Kirk, a parish church of the Church of Scotland constructed between 1602 and 1620. Located at the southern edge of the Old Town, it is adjacent to George Heriot’s School.

Check out “St. Giles Cathedral”

Greyfriars Kirk

Since the late 16th century, burials have been taking place here and a number of notable Edinburgh residents are interred at Greyfriars. Operated by the City of Edinburgh Council, in liaison with a charitable trust, which is linked to but separate from the church, the Kirkyard and its monuments are protected as a category A listed building.  The name Greyfriars is taken from the Observantine Franciscans friary (dissolved in 1560) whose friars of wear grey habits.

List of notable burials


The graveyard is associated with Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal Skye Terrier or Dandie Dinmont Terrier dog who spent 14 years guarding the grave of his master John Gray (a nightwatchman for the Edinburgh City Police who died on February 15, 1858) until his death on January 14, 1872. This tale of a dog’s devotion is similar to that of Hachiko, the faithful Japanese Akita dog of Prof.  Hidesaburō Ueno in the 1920s.

Check out “Hachiko Memorial Statue”

Greyfriars Bobby Statue

Greyfriars Bobby headstone

Bobby’s headstone, erected by the Dog Aid Society in 1981, is located at the entrance to the Kirkyard to mark his reputed burial place.  However, as there are no parts of the kirkyard that is not consecrated, it is also believed he was buried under a tree outside the gates to the right of the current main entrance.

Greyfriars Bobby Drinking Fountain

A drinking fountain, topped with Bobby’s statue, sculpted by William Brodie, was commissioned by English philanthropist Lady Burdett-Coutts who was charmed by the story. It was erected, in 1873, at the junction of George IV Bridge and Candlemaker Row, opposite the entrance to the churchyard.

Tomb of James Murray

The graveyard is also said to be one of the most haunted in the world and most of those hauntings are linked to the ghost of Lord Advocate Sir George Mackenzie (1636–1691), the merciless judge who, in the 1670s, presided over the trials of the Presbyterian Covenanters who petitioned the King to allow freedom to practice their religion without interference.  The Kirkyard was involved in the history of the Covenanters whose movement began with the signing, on February 28, 1638, of the National Covenant in Greyfriars Kirk as it was a place of free legal public assembly.

Tomb of Scottish architect John Mylne

Following the defeat of the militant Covenanters at the Battle of Bothwell Bridge on June 22, 1679, Bloody Mackenzie imprisoned some 400 (out of 1,200 brought to Edinburgh) Covenanters in a makeshift “prison” at a field to the south of the churchyard, spending four months outside while awaiting trial. It has been described as the world’s first concentration camp.  In the 18th century, part of this field was amalgamated into the churchyard, as vaulted tombs, and the area became known as the “Covenanters’ Prison.”

Tombstone of surgeon James Borthwick (1676)

In a twist of faith, Sir George Mackenzie is buried in an Italianate monument (also known as the “Black Mausoleum”), just around the corner from Covenanters’ Prison, one of the most notable monuments in the graveyard  The distinctive domed tomb, designed by the architect James Smith, was modelled on the Tempietto di San Pietro (designed by Donato Bramante).

Grave of Prof. Alexander Murray

Mackenzie may be dead and gone, but his spirit is said to live on as the Mackenzie Poltergeist who physically attacks people.  In fact, by special arrangement with the guides at Greyfriars Kirk, the area is accessible, during the day, during their opening hours, and at night by going on a City of the Dead Tour where you can visit the mausoleum.

Monument for John Carmichael

In the 1840s, during the early days of photography, the kirkyard was used by David Octavius Hill and Robert Adamson as a setting for several portraits and tableaux such as The Artist and The Gravedigger.

Monument for William Rutherford

Some of Scotland’s finest mural monuments, from the early 17th century, are mostly found along the east and west walls of the old burial yard to the north of the kirkyard.  Rich in symbolism of both mortality and immortality, they include the Death Head, Angel of the Resurrection, and the King of Terrors.

Grave of Gerard Bruce Crole

Other notable monuments include the Martyr’s Monument, which commemorates executed Covenanters; the memorial to Gaelic poet Duncan Ban MacIntyre (1724–1812, renovated in 2005, at a cost of about £3,000, raised by a fundraising campaign for over a year); and the monument of Sir John Byres of Coates (1569–1629), one of the last works of the royal master mason William Wallace.

Tombstone of Alexander MacDuff

Other notable burials here include:

Grave of Katharine Margaret Crole

Greyfriars Kirkyard: Greyfriars Place, 26 Candlemaker Row, Edinburgh, EH1 2QE Scotland. Tel: 01316644314. E-mail:  bereavement@edinburgh.gov.uk.

How to Get There:   A 10-minute walk from Edinburgh Waverley Station, the Kirkyard is also within easy walking distance of the Old Town and the Grassmarket.   You can take a bus from the nearby stops. Specific bus routes that stop nearby include the 9, 23, 27, 35, 41 and 42.