Camp John Hay – Historical Core (Baguio City, Benguet)

After lunch at the Philippine Military Academy (PMA) cafeteria, Jandy and I again boarded our Toyota Revo and proceeded to Camp John Hay. This attractive, quiet place, with views of the surrounding hills, always offers an abundance of rest and recreation activities such as hikes along a 1.8-km. eco-trail; biking, horseback riding and kiddie rides at Scout Hill; camping, an educational tour of the Butterfly Sanctuary; and golf at its 5,330-yard, 18-hole, par-68 golf course, one of the best in the country.

Club John Hay Golf Course

The Camp John Hay Mile-Hi Center, a former recreation center of the Americans, offers local and exported crafts and garments.  Within the CJH Commercial Mall, located at the former Administration Bldg., is the John Hay Commissary (a duty-free shop), Strumms, Dencio’s Bar and Grill, Side Bar and Nike Stadium, plus a billiards hall, business center and an internet cafe.  There’s also the Camp John Hay Manor and the Camp John Hay Suites, nice places to stay within the camp.

John Hay Manor

A 3-hectare slice of nostalgia within the camp, called the Historical Core, my favorite spot then and now, has been set aside to preserve the camp’s timelessness and allure.  Deemed inviolate to the whims and winds of change, this living museum was envisioned as more than just a window on time.  It consists of the Bell Amphitheater, the History Trail, Honeymoon Lodge, Our Secret Garden, the Cemetery of Negativism and Bell House.

Cemetery of Negativism

Near the entrance is the Cemetery of Negativism, built during the term of camp commander Maj. John Hightower (1979-1982).  A glimpse into the homespun American philosophy of living, here we strolled among the tombstones where bad habits and the scourge of productivity are buried, its touch of whimsy doing little to negate the truth of its message.  Among them are the inept Kant du Nutin Wright, the defeatist Ben Trid Bfor and the notorious General Neg A. Tivism (whose epitaph reads “Died of positive reaction to enthusiasm”).

Bell House (Camp John Hay Museum)

The Bell House, now the Camp John Hay Museum (opened on October 25, 2003), was named after U.S. Gen. J. Franklin Bell.  Initially built as the vacation home of the Commanding General, today it is the repository of artifacts and other indoor exhibits.

Bell Amphitheater

Personally designed by Gen. Bell who took inspiration from the Ifugao’s terracing technique, the amphitheater was once a venue for social and cultural gatherings known for its perfect acoustics.  Anything said under the gazebo at the center is amplified, audible from any point within the amphitheater.  Its rows of chairs have since been replaced and it is now a multi-level landscaped garden with rare flowers.  The amphitheater is now available for concerts, weddings and other special occasions.

The History Trail

The History Trail, designed to wind its way amidst pine trees, offers landscaped resting areas.  Our Secret Garden is planted to blooms that add a splash of color and scents. It also has a gazebo. The Honeymoon Cottage is rented out to newlyweds.

Philippine Military Academy – Relics Point (Baguio City, Benguet)

Our first stopover at the Philippine Military Academy was at Relics Point, a favorite for military hardware lovers including me.  Here, you can see and touch (and actually ride) the real McCoy as on display are actual U.S. and U.K-made armored tracked or wheeled vehicles and U.S., French, Dutch and Japanese-made howitzers and mortars.

Me beside an Armored Infantry Fighting Vehicle
The U.S.-made Armored Infantry Fighting Vehicle (AIFV) weighted 13,687 kgs. (30,175 lbs.), had a fuel tank capacity of 416 lieters ADF (diesel) and was armed with 25 mm. Oerlikon KBA B02 auto cannon as primary armament and a 7.62 mm. co-axial machine gun as secondary armament.
 
Landing Vehicle Tracked 4 (LVT)
The amphibious, U.S.-made Landing Vehicle Tracked 4 (LVT), used during World War II, was armed with a 7.62 mm. machine gun and can be loaded by a jeep or a 105 mm. howitzer.  It had a maximum speed of 32 kms./hr. on land and 12 kms./hr. on water.  Here in the country, it was used by the Philippine Marines.
 
V-150
The U.S.-made V-150 had a battle weight of 9,000 kgs. (24,000 lbs.), a ground clearance of 64.7 cms. (25.5 inches) and a fuel tank capacity of 300 liters ADF.  It was armed with a 50 cal. M2 heavy barrel machine gun as primary armament and a 7.62 mm. co-axial M240 machine gun as secondary armament.
 
Sherman M-4A1 Medium Tank
The U.S.-made Sherman M-4A1 Medium Tank, developed during the early part of World War II, was built in large numbers and was extensively deployed in the Pacific and European theater.
 
M-7 Self-Propelled Howitzer
The U.S.-made M-7 Self-Propelled Howitzer saw extensive service during World War II with the Allied forces, from the Battle of El Alamein onwards.  Nicknamed the “Priest,” its gun had a range of 11,160 m.
 
Simba Light Combat Vehicle
The U.K.-made Simba Light Combat Vehicle  had a battle CBT weight of between 9.9 to 11.2 tons, a hull ground clearance of 0.45 m. (1.5 ft.), an axle ground clearance of 0.33 m. and a fuel tank capacity of 296 liters ADF.  It was armed with one 50 cal. QCB machine gun.
 
Jandy trying out the 40 mm. Bofors
The Dutch-made 40 mm. Bofors was the most widely-used ant-aircraft gun of World War II.  Both Allied and Axis forces used license-built and captured guns of this type.
 
75 mm. Mountain Gun
The Japanese-made, pre-World War II (1934), Type 94 75 mm. mountain gun, light and for rugged use, was suitable for fighting in mountainous country.
 
12.2 mm. Light Field Howitzer
The French-made 12.2 mm. Light Field Howitzer, introduced in 1909, was used in World War II.  It had a maximum range of 7,500 m..
 
105 mm. L3A1 Melara Howitzer

The U.S.-made 105 mm. L3A1 Malara Howitzer, of Italian design, was adopted by the American in 1939 and used to ward off the Japanese in 1941.

105 mm. M101 A1 Howitzer

The U.S.-made 105 mm. M101 A1 Howitzer was one of the most successful guns ever produced.  Between 1940-1953, 10,202 were produced and supplied to 46 national armies.  Firing at a rate of 8 rounds per minute, it had a maximum range of 11,200 m..

105 mm. M2 Howitzer

The U.S.-made 105 mm. M2 Howitzer, an improved version of the M1 howitzer, had a lower caliber but with a higher degree of accuracy.  It was later replaced by M2A1 which improved its stabilizers.

105 mm. M3 Howitzer
The U.S.-made 105 mm. M3 Howitzer, a variant of the M2 howitzer, has a shorter barrel built for shorter ranges (9,500 m. maximum).  This artillery was used by the Americans during the Lingayen landing.
 
120 mm. M120 Mortar

The U.S.-made 120 mm. M120 mortar, the largest mortar in the U.S. arsenal, was used during World War II against the Japanese.  It had a maximum range of 7,240 m..  Although this was used to fire chemical ammunition, it was also used high-explosive (HE) rounds.

The Aircraft Park
Continuing on our way, we passed the Shaku, the PMA’s landmark feathered parade cap, and stopped again at Melchor Hall.  In front of the hall is an aircraft park, this time with a display of 3 aircraft – U.S.-made, Vietnam War vintage Bell UH-1H helicopter and a F-8H Crusader fighter and an Italian-made Aermachhi SF-260M (S1A1) Marchetti military trainer.  
 
Bell UH-1H Helicopter
The Bell UH-1H general purpose helicopter had a 1,400-HP AVCO turbo shaft engine, a maximum level cruising speed of 110 knots, a sea level rate of climb of 1,600 ft./min., a ceiling service of 12,600 ft. and a hovering ceiling OGE (of ground effect) of 13,600 ft.
 
F-8H Crusader Fighter

The F-8H Crusader fighter has variable incidence wings, all-weather radar autopilot, a sophisticated weapons delivery system and can be equipped with various weapons such as air-to-air missiles, rockets, 20 mm. cannons, M-60 machine guns and 500-lb. bombs.

SF-260 M (S1A1)

The 7.1 m. long Aermacchi SF-260 M(S1A1), a basic military trainer first used for flying training, was further modified to load 250-lb. bombs and MA-3 rocket launchers and deployed in combat operations to conduct close air support to ground operations.   It had a maximum level speed of 180 knots and had a range, with max fuel, of 890 nautical miles (1,630 kms./1,025 miles).

Fort Del Pilar: Loakan Rd., Baguio City, Benguet

Philippine Military Academy – PMA Museum (Baguio City, Benguet)

From Melchor Hall, Jandy and I walked over to the nearby 2-storey building housing the PMA Museum.  Here, we sampled the PMA story as well as military history  through its display of old black and white photos, documents, newspaper clippings, paintings, weapons, memorabilia and other historical artifacts. 

The PMA Museum
The museum displays a typical cadet room (complete with double bunk bed, study tables, chairs and closets); a diorama of the Battle of Bulacan; the evolution military uniforms from 1908 to the present; old books; a painting of the Battle of Tirad Pass; class seals; photos of PMA superintendents; and weapons (rocket launcher, swords, rifles, spears, knives, etc.)
 
A typical Cadet Room
Battle of Bulacan diorama
Posing beside a circa 1908 uniform
Prominently displayed on the wall is a copy of the September 2, 1945 Japanese Instrument of Surrender, held on board the battleship USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay. Marking the end of World War II, it was signed by representatives of Japan, U.S., USSR, China, France, U.K., Australia, Canada, Netherlands and New Zealand.
 
Copy of Japanese Instrument of Surrender
Prominently displayed is a signboard of the Abdulrahman Bedis Memorial Military Academy, the largest camp of the Moro Islamic Liberation Front in Central Mindanao, located in Brgy. Tugaig, Barira, Maguindanao. It was captured in July 2000 by elements of the 7th Infantry Batallion (6th Infantry Division) under Lt.-Col Audie G. Delizo.
 
Signboard of Abdulraman Bedis Memorial Military Academy

The War and Weapons Gallery displays trophies of war, personal effects (sabers, helmets, boots, caps, belts, etc.) and other interesting artifacts belonging to PMA alumni, former cadets and other personalities.  

Personal effects of PMA alumni
Among the trophies of war displayed here is a short, wide and leaf-shaped, single-edged barong knife previously owned by Abu Sayaff commander Mujib Susukan.  It was seized on May 7, 2000 in Brgy. Bandang, Talipao, Sulu, by elements of Task Force Sultan (104th Brigade) of the 1st Infantry Division under then Col. Romeo P. Tolentino during its first encounter in the attempt to rescue 19 foreign hostages kidnapped in Sipadan, Sabah, Malaysia.
 
Mujib Susukan barong knife
The Alumni Gallery displays the names and class pictures of PMA alumni.    The museum also has a souvenir shop.
 
The Alumni Gallery
PMA Museum: Fort Del Pilar, Loakan Rd., Baguio City, Benguet.  Open daily, 8 AM-5 PM.  Admission: PhP10 (PhP5  for children and students). 
 

Camp John Hay Museum (Baguio City, Benguet)

Camp Hohn Hay Museum

The Camp John Hay Museum, opened on October 25, 2003, was formerly the Bell House, named after U.S. Maj.-Gen. J. Franklin Bell, the commander of the Philippine Division in 1911 to 1914.

Bell transformed Camp John Hay from a small convalescent facility into a major military resort. Initially built as the vacation home of the Commanding General, it exemplifies American Colonial architecture and lifestyle.

Living Room

The grand piano

Part of the Camp John Hay Historical Core, today this one-storey houses is the repository of artifacts and other indoor exhibits. Its interiors, consisting of 3 spacious bedrooms, a living room, dining room and kitchen, are tastefully decorated with period furniture showcasing the traditional American country style typical of old American homes. Each room has its own fireplace.

Dining Room

Master Bedroom

At the entrance are twin brass seals that used to adorn Camp John Hay’s main gate. The living room, complete with a  grand piano, displays a portrait of John Milton Hay (after whom the camp was named). Various images on the walls narrate Camp John Hay’s history.  A library can also be found at right side of the house.

Bedroom 1

Bedroom 2

The front porch has a scaled model of Camp John Hay. Here, one can look down into the Bell Amphitheater.   Along with the amphitheater, the house is now declared as a historic landmark.

Hallway

Front Porch

Camp John Hay Museum: Camp John Hay, Baguio City, Benguet. Admission (for Historical Core): PhP60 (standard), PhP40 (Baguio residents) and PhP30 (senior citizens/students). Open daily, 9 AM – 5 PM.  Visitors are not allowed to sit on the furniture, smoke or take food inside. Tel: (074) 444-8981. (Camp John Hay Management Corp. Office)

How to Get There: The best way to get there is via a taxi from Baguio CBD/Session Road.  Jeepneys are not allowed to enter.

Nayong Pilipino sa Clark Expo (Pampanga)

Nayong Pilipino sa Clark

During a lull in the Flavors of Spain Foodfest held at Hotel Vida, Grace, Norma, Ethel, Mitch and I boarded a van and visited the Nayong Pilipino sa Clark Expo at Clark.  Formally opened on November 30, 2007 after a PhP40 million rehabilitation, Nayong Pilipino sits on a 3.5-hectare portion of the Clark Expo, formerly Expo Pilipino.  This historical and cultural theme park, transferred here from its original site in Pasay City, is divided into two areas: the pre-colonial division and the colonial division. The pre-colonial division proudly shows the culture of the ethnic tribes of the northern Philippines long before the Spanish occupation through exhibits, native cottages and demonstrations that are accurately designed.  

Kalinga Village

Its outdoor museum features the Ifugao Village (features typical Ifugao houses called ulog, under which is an Ifugao woodcarver carving various wooden artifacts for souvenirs), the Kalinga Village, the Aeta Village and the Muslim Village (features the Torrogan House). Adjacent to the Torrogan House is a replica of Tabon Caves.  The Labuad Village is where ethnic Kapampangan handicraft and artwork are on sale. There are also replicas of the Banaue Rice Terraces and Mayon Volcano. 

Replica of Barasoain Church

The colonial division, on the other hand, displays the Spanish regime on the archipelago through replicas of Spanish-style houses and other edifices. It includes the far from faithful replicas of Malolos’ Barasoain Church (a mass is held here every Sunday, 10 AM)  as well as the ancestral houses of National Hero Dr. Jose Rizal, Pres. Emilio Aguinaldo and Apolinario Mabini (a museum for Kapampangan artifacts).  The Colonial Plaza, fronting the church, has a 3-tiered fountain. The Hero’s Plaza has a statue of a bolo and KKK flag-wielding Andres Bonifacio.  

The Jose Rizal House

Interspersed between the two areas are clean open spaces.  Guests can go boating and fishing at the Lagoon.  The Spanish Culture & Religion Museum and the Philippine Museum are 2 separate structures that look like fortresses.  Also within the grounds are a 1,000 seat outdoor amphitheater used for social gatherings, theater plays and cultural presentations. 

Nayong Pilipino sa Clark Expo: Clark Expo, ClarkField, Pampanga.  Tel: (045) 436-1718 and (045) 599-2813. E-mail: nayon_saclark@yahoo.com.  Website: www.nayonsaclark.com. Admission: PhP30 (adults) and PhP20 (children). Open 8 AM-6 PM.

Yuchengco Museum (Makati City)

Yuchengco Museum

Yuchengco Museum

This visual arts museum, opened in September 2005, houses the art collection of Ambassador Alfonso T. Yuchengco, highlighting his distinguished career as a businessman, diplomat, collector, philanthropist, patron of the arts and advocate for education in the Philippines and beyond.

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This museum, as an exhibition venue, aims to be a cultural bridge to the regional Asian and Pacific Rim communities. The museum also aims to bring out the excellent artistic and creative expressions of the Chinese Filipinos as well as look at the best attributes of the twin-heritage, namely the Chinese’s hardworking skills and craftsmanship and the Filipinos’ highly expressive and adaptive sensibility.

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Its Masters Gallery highlights three of the most celebrated Filipino visual artists: Fernando AmorsoloCarlos Francisco and Juan Luna.   Also part of the Museum’s permanent collection are key art pieces from the Yuchengco Group of Companies executive offices consisting of works by Filipino Modernists such as Anita Magsaysay Ho and by National Artists such as Napoleon AbuevaVictorio EdadesJose JoyaAng Kiukok,  Cesar LegaspiVicente Manansala, etc. The YGC Collection also has a sizeable number of works in the folk genre by Angelito AntonioManuel Baldemor, and Norma Belleza, and prints by Boy Rodriguez and Manuel Rodriguez Sr..  Some thematic exhibitions periodically presented in the museum feature these pieces.

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To promote better understanding of art and heritage, collections and creative industries, the museum regularly holds educational and extension programs (Young Curators Program; volunteer and internship programs; etc.) that link various sectors and audiences.  Art workshops on Chinese traditional painting on Shui-Mo or “ink and water” as well as calligraphy are also conducted regularly.

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Yuchengco Museum: RCBC Plaza, cor. of Ayala and Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City, Metro Manila. Open Mondays to Saturdays, 10 AM to 6 PM.  Admission: PhP100 for adults, PhP50 for students 15 years and below (with valid ID, PhP25 for accompanied children and senior citizens and free for YGC employees (with ID) and UNESCO-ICOM and media pass holders.  Group tours for children below 15 years old must be accompanied by adults and apply for special permission.  The museum also has education and extension programs that link various sectors and audiences and promote better understanding of art and heritage, corporate collections, and the creative industries.  Curator: Ms. Jeannie Javelosa.  Tel: (632) 889-1234.  Fax: (632) 887-5144.  E-mail: info@yuchengcomuseum.org. 
Website: www.yuchengcomuseum.org.

 

This museum, as an exhibition venue, aims to be a cultural bridge to the regional Asian and Pacific Rim communities. The museum also aims to bring out the excellent artistic and creative expressions of the Chinese Filipinos as well as look at the best attributes of the twin-heritage, namely the Chinese’s hardworking skills and craftsmanship and the Filipinos’ highly expressive and adaptive sensibility. 

Its Masters Gallery highlights three of the most celebrated Filipino visual artists: Fernando AmorsoloCarlos Francisco and Juan Luna  Also part of the Museum’s permanent collection are key art pieces from the Yuchengco Group of Companies executive offices consisting of works by Filipino Modernists such as Anita Magsaysay Ho and by National Artists such as Napoleon AbuevaVictorio EdadesJose Joya, Ang Kiukok,  Cesar Legaspi, Vicente Manansala, etc. The YGC Collection also has a sizeable number of works in the folk genre by Angelito AntonioManuel Baldemor, and Norma Belleza, and prints by Boy Rodriguez and Manuel Rodriguez Sr..  Some thematic exhibitions periodically presented in the museum feature these pieces.

To promote better understanding of art and heritage, collections and creative industries, the museum regularly holds educational and extension programs (Young Curators Program; volunteer and internship programs; etc.) that link various sectors and audiences.  Art workshops on Chinese traditional painting on Shui-Mo or “ink and water” as well as calligraphy are also conducted regularly.

Yuchengco Museum: RCBC Plaza, cor. of Ayala and Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City, Metro Manila. Open Mondays to Saturdays, 10 AM to 6 PM.  Admission: PhP100 for adults, PhP50 for students 15 years and below (with valid ID, PhP25 for accompanied children and senior citizens and free for YGC employees (with ID) and UNESCO-ICOM and media pass holders.  Group tours for children below 15 years old must be accompanied by adults and apply for special permission.  The museum also has education and extension programs that link various sectors and audiences and promote better understanding of art and heritage, corporate collections, and the creative industries.  Curator: Ms. Jeannie Javelosa.  Tel: (632) 889-1234.  Fax: (632) 887-5144.  E-mail: info@yuchengcomuseum.org
Website: www.yuchengcomuseum.org.

Casa Manila (Intramuros, Manila)

Casa Manila

From San Agustin Church, we again boarded our calesa and made a stopover at the 3-storey, colonial lifestyle Casa Manila. This museum, built in 1981, is a faithful, beautifully-done reproduction of a typical mid-19th century Spanish bahay na bato residence of Binondo merchant Don Severino Mendoza that once stood along Calle de Jaboneros in San Nicolas, Binondo.

The courtyard

It has a façade of balconies and a overhanging wooden gallery, a beautiful inner courtyard and antique Philippine, Oriental and European furniture and furnishings. Designed by Arch. Jose Ramon Faustmann with interiors by Martin I. Tinio, Jr., it is a window to the opulent 19th century lifestyle of the gentry.

The courtyard fountain

Though the house is just a reproduction, its exhibits aren’t.  No photography was allowed inside.  On display are antique 17th to the early 20th century jewelry, finely-crafted local, Chinese and European furniture and other items from the Intramuros Administration’s collection.  

L-R, Miguel, Mark, Matthew, Vicky and Francis

Casa Manila: Plaza San Luis Complex, Gen. Luna cor. Real St., Intramuros, Manila.  Tel: (632) 527-4084. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 9 AM to 6 PM.  Admission: Php50 for children, students with valid ID and faculty members; and PhP75 for adults.

Clock Tower, Hong Kong Cultural Center, Hong Kong Museum of Art and Hong Kong Space Museum (Hong Kong)

From Kowloon Park, Jandy, Cheska and I walked along Canton Road until we reached the red brick and granite, 45-m. high Former Kowloon-Canton Railway Clock Tower, located near Victoria Harbor at the foot of Salisbury Road.  Topped by a 7-m. high lightning rod, it is the only remnant of the original site of the former Kowloon Station on the Kowloon-Canton Railway. Built in 1915, it marks the start of the scenic Waterfront Promenade and remains as a photogenic monument to Tsim Sha Tsui’s rail heritage. The tower can be reached by a wooden staircase located within. Another landmark, the Tsim Sha Tsui Ferry Pier, is located nearby.

Clock Tower

The Clock Tower reused the clock from the now demolished Pedder Street Clock Tower. However, only one side had a clock, and it was not until 1920 that the remaining three sides of the Clock Tower were installed. They began operation in the afternoon of March 22, 1921, and have run ever since except during the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong during World War II.  In 1975, the Kowloon Station was moved to the present-day Hung Hom Station, on the newly reclaimed Hung Hom Bay. The old building of the station was demolished in 1977 but the Clock Tower was preserved. Since July 13, 1990, the tower has been listed as a declared monument in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong Cultural Center

Today, the site of the historic railway station is now occupied by the multipurpose Hong Kong Cultural Center, its curving roof and futuristic features creating an unusual background to the Clock Tower. Home to the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, the center has an oval, 2-tiered 2,019-seat Concert Hall with adjustable acoustic canopy and curtains and finished with high-quality oak.  It also houses an 8,000-pipe pipe organ (Asia’s largest, built by the Austrian firm Rieger Orgelbau), a 1,734-seat, 3-tiered Grand Theater for large scale opera, ballet and musicals,  a 300-496-seat Studio Theater for smaller-scale theater and performance works, an  Exhibition Gallery, 4 foyer exhibition areas and 11 rehearsal and practice rooms.

Hong Kong Museum of Art

Flanking the Hong Kong Cultural Center are the Hong Kong Space Museum and the Hong Kong Museum of Art.  The Hong Kong Museum of Art, a museum for Chinese cultural heritage, and local and international art in Hong Kong, houses 14,000 art objects, mainly Chinese paintings of historical significance, sculpture and calligraphy works and antique Chinese treasures.  The museum also presents a great variety of thematic exhibitions drawn from local and overseas sources. It was first established in the City Hall in 1962 and moved to the present premises in 1991.

Hong Kong Space Museum

The 80,000-sq. m., dome-shaped Hong Kong Space Museum, built in 1980, has 3 sections: the Hall of Space Science, the Hall of Astronomy, and one of the world’s largest and most technical planetariums, the Space Theater, where thrilling wide-screen Omnimax and Skyshows are presented.

How to Get There: From MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Station Exit E, walk towards Salisbury Road, turn right, take pedestrian next to YMCA to Hong Kong Cultural Centre. Then turn right and walk straight ahead towards the waterfront.  Take Star Ferry from Central or Wan Chai and follow the signs. The Clock Tower is located next to the Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier.

Marinduque National Museum Branch (Boac, Marinduque)

Marinduque National Museum Branch

We next proceeded to Boac Park, the execution site of Filipino revolutionaries and the surrender site of Col. Maximo Abad and his 300 Filipino soldiers during the Philippine-American War.  Within the park grounds is the Marinduque National Museum branch.  Housed in an old, historic building built in 1887, it was formerly used as a boy’s school, jailhouse, a library and the Municipal Trial Court Building. The museum, opened on February 22, 1995, showcases the province’s cultural and social heritage.

Cheska and Jandy at the museum’s staircase.

Luckily for us, the museum was open in spite of today being Holy Thursday.  Its displays include artifacts found in caves, shells, vintage photos, antiques, Moriones masks, costumes and pieces retrieved from galleons still buried under the waters between Pingan and Melchor Island.

Marinduque National Museum Branch: Boac Park, Poblacion, Boac, Marinduque. Open Mondays to Fridays.  Admission is free.

Aguinaldo Shrine (Kawit, Cavite)

After bringing my son Jandy to school, I decided, on a whim, to do some sightseeing outside Metro Manila, motoring all the way, via the Cavite Coastal Rd., to Kawit in Cavite where I plan to visit the Aguinaldo Shrine, the birthplace of Philippine Independence.  Upon arrival at the shrine, I met up with Mr. Alvin Alcid, the shrine curator, who toured me around the mansion.

Aguinaldo Shrine

The stately, 6-storey (including a mezzanine) Aguinaldo’s house started out in 1845 as a wood and nipa thatch structure before being rebuilt in 1849 as a bahay na bato with a stonewalled ground floor and a wooden second floor with banks of capiz windows.  Emilio Aguinaldo was born (according to his mother) here on March 22, 1869 (March 26 according to his partida de baptismo or parish records).

The Independence Balcony

The mansion underwent another facelift from 1919 to 1921.  To commemorate the “original” Independence Day (albeit on a personal basis), Aguinaldo added the elaborate, cannon-capped “Independence Balcony” to replace the bank of capiz windows at the living room. The Philippine sun, stars and foliate patterns decorate its eaves.  The balcony is now used during June 12 Independence Day celebrations.

The watchtower

Before his death on February 6, 1964, at the venerable age of 94 (our oldest president), Aguinaldo, in a fitting, final gesture, turned over his home and a portion of the gardens to the government on June 12, 1963 to “perpetuate the spirit of the Philippine Revolution of 1896.”   Four months later, on June 18, 1964, the mansion was declared a National Shrine and a National Treasure, by virtue of Republic Act No. 4039, and placed under the management of the National Historical Institute (now National Historical Commission of the Philippines).

Aguinaldo’s bedroom

The architecturally-inclined former president also added a family wing of children’s bedrooms; a gabled, 3-storey, spired watchtower (Aguinaldo’s favorite spot for viewing, on a clear day, the skyline of Manila) on top of the mansion (designed to match a 200-year old tamarind tree, since felled by lightning), and below it, a bedroom called the Tower Suite, his favorite retreat in his later years.

Today, the entire house uniquely blends Rococo, Baroque and Gothic architectural styles characteristic of the Spanish and American colonial period.  The entire ground floor, formerly the zaguan or grain storage area, was converted into a revolutionary-theme museum.  On exhibit are Aguinaldo’s personal memorabilia and uniforms, dioramas of the Battle of Zapote River, the Battle of Binakayan and Aguinaldo’s oath-taking as president, an exhibit of prominent Cavite revolutionary heroes, historical relics and weapons.    There is also a chess set and a bowling alley.

Aguinaldo had a very inventive and secretive mind. The antique, mostly Philippine hardwood furniture done by skilled native woodcarvers, some designed by the general himself, includes an armoire, inlaid ivory love seats, four-poster beds, China cabinets and Vienna rocking chairs.  Some chairs and cabinets have secret compartments to hide important documents or even weapons.  Ingenious sliding wall panels, along the narrow stairways to the upper rooms and in the bedrooms, are used as secret storage areas large enough for two people to hide.

The Dining Room

There are also camouflaged secret passages made just for the general.  The one leading to his second floor bedroom is concealed by a wall of shelves at the main stair landing.   Below the ground is a stone air raid shelter concealed under the kitchen’s wooden dining table top.

The decorated dining room ceiling

On the second floor are the general’s bedroom, the grand hall, conference room, dining room and kitchen and the azotea.  The rectangular grand hall is a visual showcase of Aguinaldo’s nationalistic fervor.  On the walls and pillars are recurring flag patterns done in polished wooden mosaic. The floor, a waxed-and-polished jigsaw puzzle of flags, is a mosaic of wooden trapezoids.  The decorated ceiling, which commemorates the events of August 30, 1896 (the start of the revolution), features Inang Pilipinas (Mother Philippines), an eight-rayed sun representing the first 8 provinces to rise in revolt, and the furled flags and dove of the pre-World War II League of Nations (symbolic of Aguinaldo’s aspiration for Philippine recognition in the League of Nations).

Corridor leading to children’s bedrooms

At the end of the hall are the historic windows and the added “Independence Balcony.”  The dining room ceiling is a gallery of soaring symbols featuring a bas-relief map of the country with Cavite (site of his glorious victories) painted red to symbolize war.   Overlooking the grand hall, like an alcove or balcony, is the mezzanine library.   A corridor leads to the mansion’s eastern wing where Aguinaldo’s daughters used to live with their families.

Children’s bedrooms

Another flight of stairs lead me to the Ambassador’s Room, the former study of Ambassador Jose Melencio, Aguinaldo’s son-in-law.  Above it, through a narrow stairway, is Aguinaldo’s Tower Suite.  In it are a brass bed and a large roll-top escritorio.  To reach the spired tower, the general’s favorite retreat, I had to climb a foot-wide, almost ladder-like stair.  Here, I had a bird’s eye view of the town and Aguinaldo Park (Liwasang Emilio Aguinaldo).

Check out “Liwasang Emilio Aguinaldo

Aguinaldo Park
View of town from Tower Suite

At the garden behind the house is Aguinaldo’s marble tomb, facing the river whose waters often served as a secret escape route.

Aguinaldo’s marble tomb
Aguinaldo Shrine: E. Aguinaldo Highway, Kawit, Cavite. Open Tuesdays to Sundays, 8 AM-4 PM.