Category Archives: PLACES OF INTEREST

Bulacan Doll Museum (Pulilan, Bulacan)

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Bulacan Doll Museum

The Bulacan Doll Museum, a museum located within the Pulilan Butterfly Haven, a popular ecological and swimming resort, exhibits a 17-diorama doll collection that pays tribute to Filipino craftsmanship.

Check out “Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort“

 

Alamat ng Ibong Adarna

Fertility Dance

Among the historical events depicted in the dioramas are the Birth of Katipunan in Bulacan, the Battle of San Rafael, the Declaration of Philippine Independence, the Biak-na-Bato Republic; the Capture of Calumpit by the Americans, the Japanese Occupation in Bulacan, the Independence Day celebration in Bulacan, the Malolos Congress, and the Defense of Kakarong de Sili in Pandi.  

Fluvial Parade of Bocaue

Good Friday Procession

The Folklore of Juan Tamad

The museum also features the Carabao Festival, the Sta. Clara Fertilization Dance in Obando, the fluvial parade of Bocaue, the Good Friday procession in Baliwag, Bayanihan and Pamanhikan (pre-nuptial entreaty ceremony); Alamat (fable) of Ibong Adarana; the folklore of Juan Tamad; the neighborhood cooperative endeavor; and Bulacan industries such as Paombong vinegar (suka) industry, the making of polvoron and other native delicacies, jewelry-making, embroidery and hat-weaving.

Pre-Nuptial Entreaty Ceremony

The Biak-na-Bato Republic

Pulilan Butterfly Haven: San Francisco St., Poblacion, Pulilan, Bulacan.  Tel: (044) 676-1377 and 910-1388.  E-mail:  pulilanbutterfly@yahoo.com.  Website: www.pililanbutterfly.ph.

Pulilan Butterfly Haven and Resort (Bulacan)

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From Calumpit, Jandy and I entered the town of Pulilan and made a stopover at the Pulilan Butterfly Haven, a popular ecological and swimming resort house within the Aguirre Ancestral House.  Jandy had been here before, during a field trip in February 2005.

Check out “Pulilan Town Proper“

A haven for butterfly enthusiasts and nature lovers, it has a collection of breeding and flight area for 8 species of colorful butterflies (tree nymph, lacewings, etc.), an ornamental garden, orchidarium (including the famous vanda sanderiana) and a 1,600 sq. m., butterfly-inspired swimming pool (admission: PhP100/pax), all creating a refreshing and cool atmosphere, plus a museum (Bulacan Doll Museum, admission: PhP50 ) and overnight cottages (PhP1,500).

Pulilan Butterfly Haven
Upon entry, we met up with caretaker Ms. Fe Magtalas who toured us around the Bulacan Doll Museum.  Located within the unassuming old ancestral house of owner Ms. Estelita A, Caleon-Aguirre (poetess, CPA and deputy commissioner of the Bureau of Internal Revenue), this museum houses the Bulacan Doll Museum, a 17-diorama doll collection that pays tribute to Filipino craftsmanship.
Check out “Bulacan Doll Museum“
Bulacan Doll Museum


Pulilan Butterfly Haven: San Francisco St., Poblacion, Pulilan, Bulacan.  Tel: (044) 676-1377 and 910-1388.  E-mail:  pulilanbutterfly@yahoo.com.  Website: www.pililanbutterfly.ph. 

The "Real" Bagbag Bridge? (Calumpit, Bulacan)

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On our way to Pulilan, I was on the lookout for the Bagbag Bridge, site of, according to Wikipinino.org:

“the first battle between Filipino and American soldiers during the retreat of Aguinaldo to the Ilocos Region and of the longest battle during the Filipino-American Wars (sic) led by Gen. Gregorio del Pilar on April 25, 1899.  The bridge commemorates the bravery displayed by the Filipinos as they victor (sic) in the battle against the American forces.”

Bagbag Bridge

Upon crossing a concrete bridge, I espied the much lower, similarly concreted bridge on the right.  This old, now disused bridge was impassable as one span has fallen into the river.  I guess I got the right bridge as pictures at the the Bulacan provincial government website depicts it as such.  However, looking at it, it begs the question “Was it the actual bridge that was the site of that battle?”  “We’re Filipino forces really victorious in that battle?”  First, let me state the facts, on the Battle of Calumpit, as I researched it at “Philippine-American War, 1899-1902” (written by Arnaldo Dumindin).

After taking Quingua (now Plaridel), Calumpit, only 8 kms. (5 miles) north of Malolos, became the next American objective. Gen. Antonio Luna, however, was nowhere near the town as he left for Guagua to punish Gen.  Tomas Mascardo, the military commander of Pampanga, for leaving his post to inspect troops (others say to attend a fiesta or visit a girlfriend) at Arayat (Pampanga). 

Gen. Mascardo, with around 21,000 men under his command at the time, had been supposed to strengthen the defense of the Calumpit–Apalit Line by providing reinforcements in the area when needed.  Luna took most of the defending cavalry and the artillery with him, leaving Gen.  Gregorio Del Pilar to counter the advancing American troops. Aguinaldo had ordered Luna to retreat and burn the railway bridge spanning the Bagbag River, but Luna ignored the order.

However, on April 23, 1899, Gen. Del Pilar did cut the iron girders of the railway bridge, with the intention of making the bridge collapse once the enemy’s armored artillery transport train, with 6 pounders and rapid fire guns, passed over it. However, the section of the bridge prematurely collapsed, under its own weight, before the train had reached it. Chinese porters pushed the train to the mouth of the river.  

Col. Frederick Funston, with 6 men, crawled, under heavy fire, across the ironwork of the bridge and, upon reaching the broken span, dropped into the water and swam to the opposite shore, where Filipino trenches were located. Upon reaching the opposite bank, they charged the trenches and killed 25 Filipinos.  Other troops promptly repaired the bridge to let their supply wagons cross over the river.

By nightfall of April 25, Luna had returned from Guagua with only Filipinos in the barrio of Sta. Lucia holding out against the Americans in the Bagbag sector. Gen. Luna tried to fight and repulse the Americans, but he was eventually forced to retreat, destroying bridges as his troops fell back to slow the American advance.

Based on this research, the bridge in question was actually a railway bridge made of iron, not concrete.  The bridge in the recent photo I took was probably a more recent replacement but the location may be the same.  Here’s an actual photo taken of the damaged railway bridge, then being repaired by American troops, taken after the battle.  Aside from the difference in the materials used, I also noticed that the bridge supports are also different in size and shape.

Second, there was no Filipino victory in this battle.  Probably, the victory being referred to was the April 23, 1899 (not April 25) Battle of Quingua (now Plaridel) where the same Gen. Gregorio del Pilar, with 700 to 1,000 men, halted the advance of 62 Scouts plus a troop of the 4th Cavalry, all led by Maj. James Franklin Bell; or of their subsequent halting of the cavalry charge of Col. John M. Stotsenberg (who was killed together with 6 of his men).  This all happened in Quingua, not Calumpit.  In spite of these small victories, the Americans still triumphed in the end and took the town. 

This moment in history deserves a second look ……..

Church of St. John the Baptist (Calumpit, Bulacan)

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After a jobsite inspection in Calumpit and lunch at a local Max Restaurant outlet in Malolos City, Jandy and I still had time on our hands so we decided to go on a sightseeing tour.  We drove to Calumpit town proper and made a stopover at the Church of St. John the Baptist.  Built in 1575 under the supervision of Augustinian Fr. Diego Vivar-Ordonez, this church is one of the oldest in Bulacan.  Both church and convent were finished before 1779.  It was originally built with underground escape tunnels which led to the river to provide an avenue for escape for priests with the church treasury if attacked by robbers.  Revolutionaries and Spaniards are also buried in the tunnels.   During World War II, it was Japanese Gen. Tanaka’s last battlefield. 

Church of St. John the Baptist

Originally built in red brick, recent renovations have plastered it in cement (some portions still show the original red brick).  A newer triangular pediment was placed on top of the undulating raking cornice of the original.  Four Corinthian columns, resting on pedestals, support the cornice and pediment.

The bell tower

Its rectangular facade is divided into three segments.  The first level has two rectangular windows on the side panel for balance and contrast.  The main entrance has a trefoil arch, embellishments, huge scroll-like decorations and a rose window on the pediment, half-framed by curvilinear moldings, integrated with the second level. Its interior is profusely decorated in the ornate Baroque style.  The simple 5-storey, hexagonal bell tower, on its left, was reconstructed in 1829 by Fr. Antonio Llanos, but was burned by revolutionaries in 1899.

The church interior

Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Daraga, Albay)

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From the Cagsawa Ruins, we next proceeded to Daraga town proper then drove up Sta. Maria Hill to the town’s Church of Our Lady of the Gate (Nuestra Senora de la Porteria).  The church compound has an awesome view of the sea and majestic Mayon Volcano.

Church of Our Lady of the Gate

This church, built in 1773 by Franciscan monks, has an ornately carved Baroque (others say it is a mixture of Mexican Baroque and Renaissance Gothic) facade divided into 3 segments by 4 tall, twisted columns with medallions, bearing images of the Four Evangelists, at each column’s center.  The church also has a semicircular arched main entrance topped by floral decorations and is covered with an image of Our Lady of the Gate, statuary, alcoves, religious seals, the coat-of-arms of the Franciscan Order, and niches on the walls and pedimentcontaining statues of Franciscan saints articulately carved on volcanic rock.  

The facade’s pantheon of saints
The right side of the church

Because its facade was made with volcanic rock, the church originally had a black facade as depicted on old photos.  However, during my visit, its much-admired Old World look was gone as it was painted, during restoration work (done in close coordination with and approval of the National Museum, National Historical Institute and National Commission  on Culture and Arts) in 2008, with a white lime coating (containing chemical ingredients that turned it white) which, according to its conservationists, would protect the facade from exposure to the elements and from further deterioration.  This intervention, also done in historical landmarks in other countries, was deemed acceptable as it does not adversely affect its cultural significance.  

Twisted column detail
The NHI plaque

The octagonal bell tower (or belfry), on the church’s right, carries images of the 12 Apostles engraved on the sides of the angles.  As per my visit, it still retains its volcanic black color as well as the unwanted foliage protruding from its volcanic stone facade.  On the church’s left is the unremarkable convent.  Compared to the church’s exquisite face, the church’s white interior is bland and simply adorned, a  result of what historians refer to as “unregulated reconstructions and modifications.” However, it still houses priceless old santos (statues of saints).  

The unpainted octagonal belfry

During the Philippine-American War, the church was used as headquarters by the U.S. Cavalry and, during World War II, as headquarters by the Japanese.  Damaged during the liberation in 1945, the church was repaired from 1971 to 1973.  On October 29, 2007, this church was declared by the National Museum as a National Cultural Treasure (specifically cited were the eastern and western facade, the bell tower and the baptistery), the second in Albay after the Church of St. John the Baptist in Tabaco City  and, one year later, on October 16, 2008, it was likewise declared as a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute (NHI).

The bland interior

Church of Our Lady of the Gate: Sta. Maria Hill, Brgy. San Roque, Daraga, Albay.  Tel: (052) 483-4416.  E-mail: daragaparish@gmail.com.  

Cagsawa Ruins (Daraga, Albay)

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From Lignon Hill Nature Park, we next drove down to the nearby town of Daraga.  About 3.5 kms. northwest of the town, 500 m. north of the highway, we entered the Cagsawa Ruins, a place I first visited 7 years ago during a stopover on our way to Naga City (Camarines Sur).  Much has happened since my first visit.  In 2006, mud flows from Mayon Volcano, triggered by typhoon Reming (international name: Durian) buried 8 villages in the town (killing at least 1,266 people) and we passed many ruined and buried homes.

The Cagsawa Ruins

Still, the Cagsawa Ruins, the most visited and photographed site in all of Albay, remains as it seemed during my last visit, the big difference being my classic, postcard view of Mt. Mayon’s perfect cone wasn’t obstructed by swirling afternoon clouds. The blackened church bell tower (or belfry), as well as the broken down walls of the priest’s house and municipal building (all destroyed during the February 1, 1814 eruption that killed 1,200 townspeople), have still withstood the test of time and the elements.  

Other ruins at the site

Something I never noticed before was a mini-resort with rental cottages  and 2 modest-size swimming pools (adult and kiddie) to the right of the ruins. This begs the questions “Why build a resort at  the very site where thousands have died while escaping the wrath of the volcano?”  “Did they dig up skeletons when they dug the pools?” The resort owner who built it was somehow unmindful of the sacredness of the place.

The swimming pool beside the ruins.  “What were they thinking?”

Right outside the ruins were a chain of souvenir shops selling a colorful assortment of locally produced products such as bags and baskets; Tiwi ceramic ware;  furniture (wicker chairs, sala and dining sets, etc.); Tabaco cutlery items (bolos, knives, grass cutters, etc.), arts and crafts made from Mayon’s ashes, hardwood, abaca and shells; exotic flowers and orchids; T-shirts with different designs; and native food delicacies such as kuyog, pili nut confections (salted, sugar-coated, etc.), canned pinangat, and sweet pineapple wine. Restaurants on the site also offer bicol express (a spicy shrimp dish with coconut cream), inasal na sira (grilled fish) among other dishes. 

Cagsawa Ruins: Brgy. Busay, Daraga. Admssion: PhP10. Parking fees: trucks and buses (PhP20); cars (PhP15) and motorcycles and tricycles (PhP5). 

Eco-Friendly Kayaking at Lake Bulusan (Sorsogon)

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From Bayugin Falls, we continued on our way until we finally reached Lake Bulusan, in Brgy. San Roque, Bulusan, by mid afternoon. At this time, the broad daylight provided a mystical shadow effect of the greenery to the emerald green water. This small, round crater lake, known as the “Switzerland of the Orient” (minus the pine trees, alpine forests or ice caps) due to its lovely, spectacular scenery, is located at an elevation of 635 m. on the southeast flank of Mt. Bulusan volcano.

Tranquil Lake Bulusan

The Department of Tourism has declared Bulusan as a Tourist Zone due to the fact that it has the biggest share of Bulusan Volcano National Park (BVNP) in terms of land area, 43% or 1,580.20 out of 3,673.30 hectares.  Six of the town’s barangays are located within the national park and all are ingress and egress points to this protected area.  The lake, currently manged by volunteers of AGAP-Bulusan, is surrounded by lush, awesome and breathtaking forests containing endemic species of plants such as Forestia philippensis, Pinanga insignis and the newly discovered Schefflina bulusanicum and Pronephrium bulusanicum; jade vine (Stronglylodon macrobothrys); ground orchids (Phojus tankervillea); tall, centuries-old tindalo (Afzeliarrhomboidea) trees and mountain agoho (Casuarina rumphiana).

The newly-acquired aqua cycles

 A carefully designed concrete pathway rims the lake, affording the visitor a pleasant, serene and leisurely nature walk.  However, Bernard and I weren’t here for the walk.  We were here to do some kayaking, a refreshing, non-polluting outdoor activity in the lake.  Aside from tandem kayaks (rented for PhP100 for 30 mins.), canoes and rowboats, there are also 6 colorful aqua cycles (or water trikes) just recently turned over, early this year, by the provincial government to the municipality..

Bernard and I kayaking Lake Bulusan

Bernard and I donned life jackets and were each assigned our paddle and tandem kayak.  Once on our kayaks, we started paddling along the lake’s 2,006 m. long perimeter, admiring the lake’s calm, emerald green waters and the park’s impressive and lush old growth forest of dipterocarp trees and endemic species of plants.  Overhead, a soaring eagle kept us company.  Truly a postcard-pretty sight.  It was already dusk when we returned to shore and, after a merienda of maruya, brewed coffee and soft drinks at the BVNP Visitor’s Center, said goodbye to our gracious hosts, returned to our vehicle and continued on our way to Sorsogon City.

The BVNP Visitor’s Center

AGAP-Bulusan, Inc.: Bulusan Social Development Center (BSDC) Bldg., 262 Sesbreno St., Brgy. Dapdap, Sorsogon City, Sorsogon.  Mobile numbers: (0918) 457-8767 and (0908) 896-8826 (Mr. Philip Bartilet).  Email: agapbulusan@yahoo.com.ph.

Trek to Bayugin Falls (Bulusan, Sorsogon)

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Along our way to Lake Bulusan, Bernard, Philip and I decided to visit Bayugin Falls in Brgy. San Francisco, one of Bulusan‘s eco-tourism attractions.  We parked the SUV at the barangay chapel where we made a courtesy call on the barangay captain.  That done, we proceeded on our hike.  According to the barangay captain, the falls is just a 500-m. hike.  Initially the trail, along slippery but hard-packed mud, was relatively flat.  Halfway through the hike, we crossed a wooden footbridge over a very narrow, steep-sided creek which, according to Philip, is a possible fault line.

Philip at the wooden footbridge

Past the bridge, the trail eventually became steeper as we neared the falls, we having to go down steps carved along the hillside. This descent really made my knees shake.  After 20 mins., the sound of onrushing waters heralded our arrival at the falls.  What a magnificent falls it was! The falls, surrounded by a thick, mossy forest, is the source of the Bayugin River which eventually joins the Paghasaan River as it flows into the Bulusan River.  Now a popular swimming and picnic site, concrete picnic tables, a bamboo viewing deck and narrow plank bridges have been installed.

Bayugin Falls

Though we didn’t bring any swimming attire, Bernard couldn’t resist dipping his legs at the cold, onrushing waters.  We lingered at the falls for a cool 20 mins., savoring the sights and sounds and recording it all via camera.  The ascent, on our return, though short, was just as tiring.  Thus refreshed, we returned to our vehicle and continued on our way to Lake Bulusan.

The bamboo view deck

Bayugin Falls: Brgy. San Francisco, Bulusan, Sorsogon.

How to Get There: Brgy. San Francisco is a 20-min. tricycle ride from the town proper. 

Bulusan: Eco-Tourism Haven (Sorsogon)

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After our interview of AGAP-Bulusan, Inc. president Philip G. Bartilet at Lake Bulusan, Philip accompanied Bernard and I to the Bulusan municipal hall where we made a courtesy call on, and had lunch, with Mayor Michael G. Guysayko.  Like Philip, first term Mayor Guysayko is supportive of the environment conservation projects of AGAP-Bulusan, the rehabilitation of denuded forests and sustainable eco-tourism in the BVNP.

L-R: the author, Mayor Guysayko and Bernard

After lunch, Philip again accompanied us as we toured Bulusan town’s tourist attractions.  Our first stop was the town’s Church of St. James the Greater in Brgy. Central.  Located on a site called Punta Diamante (named after its diamond-shaped wall formation), it is dubbed the “Intramuros of Bulusan.”  Its walls were made of stacked up volcanic stones.

Punta Diamante

The church wasn’t old (erected around 1760, its Baroque facade was totally renovated in 1970) but the parish compound is enclosed by ramparts of the triangular, Spanish-era muralla (“stone fort”). Around the walls are burial niches and niches for santos (“saints“) while at one end is the equestrian statue of St. James the Greater and a wooden cross, above which is the statue of a standing Jesus Christ, with arms outstretched, on a pedestal.

A baluarte de piedra at Punta Diamante beside burial niches

Four baluartes de piedra (stone watchtowers”) can still be traced from the remaining walls near the shores of Brgys. Central, Dapdap and Mabuhay.  The church’s 4-storey bell tower (locally called kampanaryo), the largest of the 4 watchtowers, was believed to have been built in 1631 after the town was made an independent from Casiguran in 1630.  With 8 sides, the tower’s walls taper upwards in alternating piers. The ill-conceived 4th storey, housing the bells, is a totally inappropriate modern addition.

The church bell tower

From the town proper, we motored, 1 km. out of the town, along the Bulusan-Barcelona Rd., to the white sand Dancalan Beach in Brgy. Dancalan.  A popular swimming spot, the relatively shallow Dancalan Beach is lined with beach resorts and kiosks beneath the coconut trees that provide shade for picnickers.

The white sand Dancalan Beach

We also passed by the Dr. Jose Reyes Ancestral House and, from the vantage point of a bridge, the Bulusan River.  The 12 km. river, formed by the merging of the Dulipay and Malinang Rivers, and the Malugoy-lugoy Rivers, is a potential nature trekking area.  From here, we proceeded on our way to Lake Bulusan where Bernard and I were to do some leisurely kayaking.

The Bulusan River

Cagraray Island (Bacacay, Albay)

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From Viento de Mar Beach Resort, we made our way back to the Bacacay municipal hall where we our driver and the Isuzu Crosswind was waiting to bring Bernard and I to the 5-hectare, Class “AAA” Misibis Resorts, Estate and Spa.  Opened in late 2009, this resort is located on the southeastern tip of Cagraray Island and is being touted as the “Boracay of Bicol.”   The island itself is an eco-tourism destination with rich limestone deposits, waterfalls and 28 caves (ancient burial jars were found in 2 of these caves).  Joining us as guide was Mr. Patricio Bechayda, the Fishery Law Enforcement Team (FLET) officer of Bacacay.

Sula Channel

This 71-sq. km., low island is a 20-km. (45-min.) drive from the town.  The fine, white sand Misibis Beach (Brgy. Misibis), one of the town’s 11 white sand beaches, is located on the island’s southeast corner. From the mainland, we crossed over the narrow Sula Channel  to the island via the newly-built,  2-lane Sula Delta Bridge.  Built at a cost of PhP150 million, this bridge is 265 m. long, has 5 spans and was built with modular steel paneling (Delta) with steel decking.  Prior to its construction, motorized bancas and cable cars on a hill, both used to transport people, and barges (for cars) were used to cross over to the island.  During bad weather, the placid Sula Channel was used in olden times as a sanctuary by Acapulco (Mexico)-bound galleons.

Sula Delta Bridge

Past the bridge, the road is lined with eco-friendly solar cell-powered street lamps.  Along the way, we made a short stopover at a covered concrete view deck with a fantastic view of Lagonoy Gulf and the islands of Rapu-Rapu, San Miguel and Agutaya.  We also passed a roadside fishpond with 3 native-style cottages raised on stilts, all connected to the shore by a wooden footbridge.

Bernard and Mang Patricio at the view deck
View of the islands of Lagonoy Gulf

We didn’t have time and the permit (the resort charges a substantial entrance fee) to explore the resort’s 37 luxurious, Asian-inspired villas, swimming pools and small beach.  Instead, we dropped by the 100-hectare Misibis Bay Eco-Park, part of the Misibis Bay Complex just adjacent to and outside the perimeter fence of the beachfront property.

The Eco-Park’s Information Hut

Past its gate is the Information Hut (with its man-made waterfall) and the picturesque, open-air mini-amphitheater, perched on the edge of a cliff, with its stunning backdrop of a shimmering bay and  its surrounding greenery.  The amphitheater was featured in the 5th leg, Philippine pit stop of the 4th season of The Amazing Race Asia which was won by a team from the Philippines.  It was also a shooting venue for the telenovela Dulo ng Walang Hanggang.

The mini-amphitheater

Further up the hill is the Eco-Energy Park Adventure Zone.  It has 4 different zip lines, an obstacle course and a towering climbing wall for adrenaline junkies.  Each zip line differs from the other in length, speed, duration and view.  However, all are exclusively for the use of resort guests.

The Adventure Zone

Eco-Energy Park Adventure Zone: open Mondays to Fridays, 8-11 AM and 1-5 PM; Saturdays, 8-11 AM and 1-3 PM.  Holidays by special arrangement.  Admission: PhP25/pax.